Well - been a busy summer. Finally got enough stuff cleaned & rearranged in the shop. 4-H Fair is done.Got my engine on the stand & ready. Started my 1st VW engine build. Started with the Full flow. 2 front holes drilled & tapped. Plug removed from the back. Thought I might give this series another look over B4 I continued. Hopefully I can some more videos done & posted here shortly.
Not a bad idea! I just look for obvious signs of leakage when I take them apart. One machine shop told me if they aren't to bad you can try that. But keep an eye on that. Thanks for watchin and making a contribution.
Hello Ez, like your channel. This is Junior. I just started my first RUclips channel. Juniorclassic Vw and sunny the super beetle. I was wondering how to do this. Now I have a better idea thanks to this video. So I wanted to mention; I found these small scotch brite wheels online. They can be used with a small Drexel die grinder. They come in different grits... awesome for little details like the one you mentioned enlarging the area in the fitting. Thanks for your videos
Welcome to U tube. I've been at it almost 10 years. Ya just start posting and using the U tube tutorials to learn what to do and before you know it you have hundreds of vids and people watching. Good Luck with your channel
I performed a similar procedure on my 6.0 powerstroke, to flow the coolant to the back cylinders. I also ran into a clearance issue, so I simply used a straight-in (instead of grinding metal) to get past the obstacle, and then attached the 90.
can i do this in my 64 without removing the original oilcooler in the doghouse..? what'd be the oil pump you racommend to use with a camshaft from a superbug..?
Yes you can. It has been done many times. If that engine is stock I would use a stock pump. If you are doing upgrades you might want a larger pump gear like 26mm but it must match the camshaft that drives the pump. Basicaly the lates are rivited and shorter. The early ones are bolted and pump shaft it longer
Thanks for the info on how to do this. I'm having an issue with getting the brass 90 to screw into the case, it wants to go in cockeyed after the threads start to catch. The tap goes in fine, nice and straight and both sets of threads look good. Any suggestions?
Maybe exchange it for a different one? Thread it into a steel plumbing fitting that has good female threads? Take a file and clean out the threads on the fitting. 3 Hail Mary's 3 Our Father I would probably opt for a different 90 just to check again. Good luck and thanks for playing.
Jaucques You make a good point but this vid was for the average do it urselfer with basic stuff you can get at local hardware or auto supply house. There is always a better way. This method has been used countless times. Thanks for your insight and expertise
Noticed that you plugged the oil pump outlet, but did not plug the port in the case where the pump use to push the oil . Wouldn't some oil spill back into the oil pan when returning from the filter? Would this not change pressure and thereby affect the oil relief and oil control valves, changing in how oil flows to the bearing and the cooler?
There are no problems or ill effects. It just becomes a dead end the full filtered oil pressure now goes in the main oil galley. Do not make any changes to the case. It is all done to the pump as shown. Thanks for the question.
Would you do this the same way and a fully assembled engine? I noticed you built an air hose adapter and to screwed it into the pressure sensor port. Is full flow oil filter better then the bolt on EMPI style in you opinion on a scale of 1 to 10? Thank you for you videos they have helped me a bunch as I am a proud new owner of a 66 beetle that I picked up in bags and boxes. I have a rebuilt motor going in that’s a 1600 it’s not the original 1300. Thanks and have a good day!
This is my new favorite for a engine with a performance cam www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1791.htm The full flow is a pain in the butt to do and anything with a screw on filter is better than a screen
Excellent !!!! I had watched # 1 & # 2 B4 - i put 2gether the parts for ur FLOW control valve. Very Kool by the way. Getting closer to working on my engine. This will be the first thing I do. So I wanted to give it another watch. I do have a question - Before ur actual BUILD - how do clean the block ?? I know using the OLD cleaning tank method is a NO NO . But do you say - give a bath or shower yourself or take it to a machine shop & have them toss in their parts washer ?
why not use ORB hydraulic fittings, by selecting -6 fitting size probably that there is no clearance issue and you have the possibility to aling fitting the angle you want the is reamers on market expressly to prepare entries for ORB fittings. Installing a bypass filter over fulle flow is another way to furthe greatly increase engine life. good job...
good morning from Greece Ezgz.i see that all though you have big engines you are not fan of electronic ignitions.you use 009 most.with points or not?.and why you don't use electronic ignitions.thanks in advance. George
Hello George. I like the Pertronix brand pointless ignition that fits in the 009 distributor. Mandatory on the sand cars. Thanks for watching and commenting.
ha ez need your option I have a custom built sandrail with a 1835 turbo motor was built by some old timer vw shop in Portland OR took it out to the dunes first time this rode about 10 min all sudden lost all oil pressure motor never got hot was still running fine but I shut it down any ideas am real puzzled thanks
Checkout your gauge. Also check the oil return line on the Turbo. Also on the bottom of the case are to oil relief access holes. The both have a spring and a piston. Make sure the piston moves freely sometimes they can get stuck.
thanks for your advice on my sandrail that just all a sudden just lost oil pressure took it to the shop that built it they said it was oil pump failure whould really like to know what might cause that
why do you guys do it like this ? you end up with 3 sharp 90 deg bends the oil has to go through before it gets to the main gallery , you should be plugging that hole and tapping the one under it and using a straight fitting you can get from JAYCEE so you can use a full flow 90 hose end to connect the hoes and have no sharp 90 deg bends in the most important line on your engine
What was the name of the book you mentioned. Hot rod VW fact or flat book, something like that. You mentioned it may still be in print.
Watched all three full flow videos and thought they were very informative. Keep up the good work. Keep an eye on that frog!
nice work, do you ever lap the cylinders in the heads with valve grinding paste
Well - been a busy summer. Finally got enough stuff cleaned & rearranged in the shop. 4-H Fair is done.Got my engine on the stand & ready. Started my 1st VW engine build. Started with the Full flow. 2 front holes drilled & tapped. Plug removed from the back. Thought I might give this series another look over B4 I continued. Hopefully I can some more videos done & posted here shortly.
Not a bad idea! I just look for obvious signs of leakage when I take them apart. One machine shop told me if they aren't to bad you can try that. But keep an eye on that. Thanks for watchin and making a contribution.
Hello Ez, like your channel. This is Junior. I just started my first RUclips channel. Juniorclassic Vw and sunny the super beetle. I was wondering how to do this. Now I have a better idea thanks to this video. So I wanted to mention; I found these small scotch brite wheels online. They can be used with a small Drexel die grinder. They come in different grits... awesome for little details like the one you mentioned enlarging the area in the fitting. Thanks for your videos
Welcome to U tube. I've been at it almost 10 years. Ya just start posting and using the U tube tutorials to learn what to do and before you know it you have hundreds of vids and people watching. Good Luck with your channel
I performed a similar procedure on my 6.0 powerstroke, to flow the coolant to the back cylinders. I also ran into a clearance issue, so I simply used a straight-in (instead of grinding metal) to get past the obstacle, and then attached the 90.
The part I didn't show is the sheet metal cover that you would have to make a hole in if you did that and then the hose won't clear
can i do this in my 64 without removing the original oilcooler in the doghouse..? what'd be the oil pump you racommend to use with a camshaft from a superbug..?
Yes you can. It has been done many times. If that engine is stock I would use a stock pump. If you are doing upgrades you might want a larger pump gear like 26mm but it must match the camshaft that drives the pump. Basicaly the lates are rivited and shorter. The early ones are bolted and pump shaft it longer
Thanks for the info on how to do this. I'm having an issue with getting the brass 90 to screw into the case, it wants to go in cockeyed after the threads start to catch. The tap goes in fine, nice and straight and both sets of threads look good. Any suggestions?
Maybe exchange it for a different one?
Thread it into a steel plumbing fitting that has good female threads?
Take a file and clean out the threads on the fitting.
3 Hail Mary's
3 Our Father
I would probably opt for a different 90 just to check again.
Good luck and thanks for playing.
TheEZGZ Thanks, I'll give that a try too, was going to see if a plug or nipple would thread in to the case also.
Jaucques You make a good point but this vid was for the average do it urselfer with basic stuff you can get at local hardware or auto supply house. There is always a better way. This method has been used countless times. Thanks for your insight and expertise
Noticed that you plugged the oil pump outlet, but did not plug the port in the case where the pump use to push the oil .
Wouldn't some oil spill back into the oil pan when returning from the filter? Would this not change pressure and thereby affect the oil relief and oil control valves, changing in how oil flows to the bearing and the cooler?
There are no problems or ill effects. It just becomes a dead end the full filtered oil pressure now goes in the main oil galley. Do not make any changes to the case. It is all done to the pump as shown. Thanks for the question.
Thank you for doing this. I just watched 1, 2 & 3 and learned a lot.
Would you do this the same way and a fully assembled engine? I noticed you built an air hose adapter and to screwed it into the pressure sensor port. Is full flow oil filter better then the bolt on EMPI style in you opinion on a scale of 1 to 10? Thank you for you videos they have helped me a bunch as I am a proud new owner of a 66 beetle that I picked up in bags and boxes. I have a rebuilt motor going in that’s a 1600 it’s not the original 1300. Thanks and have a good day!
This is my new favorite for a engine with a performance cam www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1791.htm
The full flow is a pain in the butt to do and anything with a screw on filter is better than a screen
Your Funny you make me Laugh , Good vids But I enjoy them
alrighty then..... hehehe
Excellent !!!! I had watched # 1 & # 2 B4 - i put 2gether the parts for ur FLOW control valve. Very Kool by the way. Getting closer to working on my engine. This will be the first thing I do. So I wanted to give it another watch.
I do have a question - Before ur actual BUILD - how do clean the block ?? I know using the OLD cleaning tank method is a NO NO . But do you say - give a bath or shower yourself or take it to a machine shop & have them toss in their parts washer ?
+VW MountainMan At least a whole can of aresol brake cleaner and 100psi of air blasting every which way. 7 Our Fathers and 7 Hail Mary's.
Lots of good information! You make me want to run out and build a VW! :)
good stuff ez, thanks for the vids. Gave me a lot of ideas for my 65 resto DD !
Glad you liked the vid. I love those swing axle VW's. Good luck with your resto project.
why not use ORB hydraulic fittings, by selecting -6 fitting size probably that there is no clearance issue and you have the possibility to aling fitting the angle you want
the is reamers on market expressly to prepare entries for ORB fittings.
Installing a bypass filter over fulle flow is another way to furthe greatly increase engine life.
good job...
good morning from Greece Ezgz.i see that all though you have big engines you are not fan of electronic ignitions.you use 009 most.with points or not?.and why you don't use electronic ignitions.thanks in advance. George
Hello George. I like the Pertronix brand pointless ignition that fits in the 009 distributor. Mandatory on the sand cars. Thanks for watching and commenting.
ha ez need your option I have a custom built sandrail with a 1835 turbo motor was built by some old timer vw shop in Portland OR took it out to the dunes first time this rode about 10 min all sudden lost all oil pressure motor never got hot was still running fine but I shut it down any ideas am real puzzled thanks
Checkout your gauge. Also check the oil return line on the Turbo. Also on the bottom of the case are to oil relief access holes. The both have a spring and a piston. Make sure the piston moves freely sometimes they can get stuck.
very nice work nice and clear keep it up
Very good informative videos thank you ez gz keep em' commin!!!
Thanks, Looks like you bilt yourself a nice engine too.
nice job, a lot of nice tips
It used to be cheap. Then somebody decided the little buggers were classics and started to jack up the prices!
thanks for your advice on my sandrail that just all a sudden just lost oil pressure took it to the shop that built it they said it was oil pump failure whould really like to know what might cause that
So is the U tube garage gang. hehehehe
Thanks for watching
please Do NO Thigh the fitting with a open end wrench ...Use fitting socket
Thx
why do you guys do it like this ? you end up with 3 sharp 90 deg bends the oil has to go through before it gets to the main gallery , you should be plugging that hole and tapping the one under it and using a straight fitting you can get from JAYCEE so you can use a full flow 90 hose end to connect the hoes and have no sharp 90 deg bends in the most important line on your engine
You may be right but it has proven itself to work better thqn stock
interesting
yes good video man but sorry you need some one teach you how to use camera .. thank you for doing that..