Yup, that's the one that I got, man. Just waiting for the warmer weather... "Currently unavailable" cause I think I got the last one. ...I'm surprised they didn't get more,cause I bought mine a while ago. :/
Dude, that kit hasn't been available for at least like three months. It's pretty good bro, it has a lot of things. ...I had to grab it. -It's- *was* probably the best kit available on there. :)
Finally getting semi-warm weather here. I feel like I've been watching this video like a school book. Again, thanks for posting this in human, instructional terms. Have a good one.
Just successfully did the timing belt, water pump and crank seal on my GS300 over the weekend, thank you for making this video. I watched it once and was able to crack on until I got to the crank seal. Cheers from New Zealand! :)
I have done this job on my 2JZGE Lexus GS300 3 times, but never had to remove radiator/fan assembly even using the same basic tools you used. The bump start method to break loose the Crank pully bolt loose DOES work. It lifted the front end of my car a bit, but it did work. Learned that trick many years ago. This video is a nice tutorial. Keep up the good work!
Thank you! The radiator and fan assembly comes out super easy so that's why I took it out. It's worth spending the 10 minutes to pull it to have the space. I wonder if the GS has more room than the IS. There is no way to get a puller onto the crank without taking the fans off the IS.
Not sure about the differences in front end clearance(s) as to crank pulley extraction so it might be different on the IS vs. GS. Nonetheless, great video of the process on a 2JZ.
Thank you for the very detailed video. I just picked up an is300 with 125k miles for 2800 but it's leaking oil from everywhere. I just replaced the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs, and will be doing my water pump, cam seals, crank seals, timing belt and replacing my vvti gear instead of just the leaking seal this weekend. I'm a little nervous but I'm hoping I can do everything right and save myself the money on labor. Wish me luck!
Dylan Uribe you got this! It's not hard at all! Post up if you have any questions. And you can rent the pulley puller from autozone for free if you don't have one.
RacecarAndChill okay so I put the car in neutral with e brake, place the breaker bar on the crank bolt so it’s solid on the floor, then I give the key a quick turn but not enough to start the engine?
I have a question I'm doing the timing belt on my is300 I did the cam seal and put cover and vvti pulley back on. When I torqued it down the gear shifted belt was not on. I moved the gear to the far left and move the cam to align. How much play does vvti gear have without the belt? Would I'd be safe in this regard or should but the timing gear in rotate to feel any resistance? Cheers thankyou your video is awesome
The vvti gear has 30 degrees of play, 15 in each direction. It doesn't matter how much play is in it when you assemble it. The ecu will compensate. Just make sure the timing marks all line up.
@@RacecarAndChill so my gear only goes counter clock wise at full 30 degree its stops doesnt go any further and is slightly off of the submark(circle indentation) but when rotated clockwise all the way till it stops rotating it's full 30 degrees it's back at tdc is that good? As long as the tdc lines up correct? I turned the engine as you did and everything line up after two rotations of the crank. Is the submark should be ignored when turning full 30 degrees counterclockwise if dose not line up. Thanks again sorry for all the questions
I wish you would have gone into detail about properly setting the intake vvti camshaft before slipping on the belt. I just did my SC300 and it idled like crap because I didn't set the intake camshaft at 0° although the vvti cam gear was on the mark. I'm currently having to do it all again just to reset the intake cam.
Richard Weapons if the cam gear is at zero, the ecu will compensate for the play in the vvti gear. It might have rotated a tooth while you were slipping the belt on.
Do you have to replace timing belt tensioner every time you change timing belt? Im getting new timing belt installed but mechanic never meant tensioner
Reddy Reg Thank you. I had someone go through all of my videos and give them all a thumbs down with like 8 accounts. Gotta love the haters. There's no way it was natural, literally all of my videos got like 7 or 8 thumbs down on the same day. But thank you for the kind words!
to loosen the crank pulley the wrapping the sep belt around crank method is the way to go, i used to do it the start with a breaker bar to the ground but it’s not as safe and makes you feel a little scared and on one of my auto i accidentally had it on the wrong side and the bar flew up and hit my transmission cooler line and broke the fitting off so i prefer the sep belt method 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I notice at 38:00 the cams moved a little bit when you were putting back the harmonic balancer. Do you just turn it back a little after you’re don’t tightening so it lines back up to TDC?
Aye I have a question about the fluidmpr valancer. I got one for my GE but i saw/heard you mentioned that is setup different then the OE one Can you explain why and what should i do for my GE ?
your the best , I was afraid of doing it because I was confused about the pulley and the crank but after watching this you made it really easy , but I wished you explained how to remove the water pump , thanks anyway
Husain Alkhamees the water pump is easy, a bunch of 10mm bolts on the front, and 2 on the side I think. It's very straight forward. Just make sure you replace the o ring that goes into the block. Most waterpumps come with it.
I seen that , thanks , I noticed before you took the timing belt off , you marked it with the dash , but then when you installedit again , you didn't put the timing belt the same way it was marked with the dash , does it matter? also should I use a torque with pulley?
Husain Alkhamees it doesn't matter. The reason I marked my belt is to show that you can do that to make sure you put the car back in tdc before putting it all together if you're reusing the belt like I was.
I have a 98 Lexus GS300 and I think my timing belt is bad to the point the car won't start . I believe the cogs on the belt are gone . This engine was not running when this happened but I was turning the motor over trying to start it. Do you think I bent my valves by trying to start it?
You're gonna have to take off the upper timing cover and check the timing. It can be off a few teeth and still be ok. But if it skipped more than a few teeth, it's probably hurt. Is that a vvti engine? If it's not, you'll be ok.
Could I break the bolts loose on the cam and vvti gears with the timing belt still installed so I don't have to remove my valve covers? I did the valve cover gasket/spark plug job a couple months ago and don't need to replace those gaskets again.
I've never done it this way, so I'm not positive. The only issue I can foresee is the vvti gear will want to turn anyway because it has play in it naturally
If you put a new timing belt; will it have tdc marks? Or do you just throw on a new belt and mark it up with the camshaft gears? Thanks and good tutorial
Thanks man! I hate how long it ended up being, but there was so much to go over that I didn't want to skip like the other DIY's do. Still so much work to do on the channel, but it has begun!
I feel that way sometimes with my videos. It depends on what you're doing in the video. If it needs detailed instruction like a timing belt should then that's good, but other things you can get away with a higher level overview. Keep up the good work man!
I am changing only harmonic balancer on my gs300 that has same engine. Not changing timing belt at all. Do i need to worry about timing or position of harmonic balancer when i restart engine
Woww this is the best video ive ever seen of work being done on this car, everything was covered and well explained and definitly giving me more confidence to get it done myself !!! Indeed a perfect video for a visual learner.. Thank you so much !
I'm having mine done by a friend. He got the timing belt changed out but he used the dots instead of the dashes, we haven't tried starting it yet but we'll be putting the rest back together and trying to start it tomorrow. At this point should we go back and re-align the marks? If so what should we turn to re-align the marks? The cams themselves or the crank?
@@RacecarAndChill okay thank you. This is the first automatic I've ever worked on, im used to manual transmissions lol as well as my first vvti system doing all cam seals and crank seal. Im at 145k odo so I figured its time to refresh everything, especially cuz my cam seals are leaking lol
You'll have to get it back to tdc before you put the new belt on. Which engine do you have? Some engines are interference engines... meaning if the belt breaks the valves will get smashed by the pistons and you'll need a whole rebuild.
@@RacecarAndChill 98 gs300 2jz ge so im pretty sure its a non interference i hope and pray it is im already tearing it down and have the new belt.im waiting on a ride to go rent crank puller.im trying to be positive it was at a idle when it broke a fucking pos butt connector fell down in there and it snapped.ok so i should just turn it to dtc after i put the belt on right?
@@RacecarAndChill I know exactly what it interference engine is and I don't think I have one so I'm good everybody got the timing belt I wish I could upload a video do you have any other way that I can upload you a video of what I'm doing so far or we could like live chat my name on Facebook is Christa dickson if you can maybe call me on Facebook Messenger
Might want to confirm but yeah. the bolt configuration on the JDM aristo water pump pulley is different too. I'm replacing the water pump and the JDM pulley won't fit on the US pump LOL
What if you're putting on a brand new timing belt, just put it on there as snug as possible starting at the top cams? I ask because you marked your belt you're reusing.
Adam Francuzik yea just get it on tight and double check your timing before pulling the pin on the tensioner. You can also count the teeth on the belt.
Thanks again for this. Just spent the weekend doing this job in my driveway. All front seals, t belt, wp, tensioner, plugs, coils, wires, and a bunch of other maintenance made easy by this video
Sup I'm Mario .... my crank shaft is not top dead center but complete opposite... that was done by hand tring 2 fixing it tried to start but just clicked once. Is there a way I can still turn The crank shaft top center?
Awesome set of instructions!...Really great!...but, I need someone experienced to do this job in my lovely GS300 with 220k miles (and a big delay in the timing belt change as i could read casually some weeks ago) near Miami, 'cause i have the will but not the experience nor the needed tools to do the job....some advice, please?
Melox2010 sorry I don't know anyone in Miami, but really the only special tool you absolutely need is a pulley puller which you can rent from autozone. I hope others can chime in here that have more experience in Miami. If you were in AZ I would do this for you real cheap!
these are the only two tools you'll need to do the job, one is 20.00 the other 15.00 get these and as he was saying in his reply to me ive found it was quite easy to take apart, its the belt aligning that's the difficult part, try marking the belt in several places before taking off, and then mark the gears as well, and math up the other belt to the old and remark on the new belt. hope that helps www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007UQLQQ4 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072TZC1VX
any VVTi - equipped 2JZ is interference 1992-1997 SC300 and Supras are non-interference, regardless of GE or GTE Any 2JZ from 1998 and onwards is VVTi and therefore interference. This includes all 98-00 SC300s and Supras and IS300s and GS300s
Richard Hall the same way, you put the engine in gear. But the rotation on the engine also tightens it, so it's not that important to really crank it down.
Thanks for the video! While I was taking the VVTi gear out, the threads on the first hex head bolt stripped. The threads on the gear stripped too. I ordered a new VVTi gear, but it does not come with the bolt. Does anybody know how or where I could find that?
I just saw your video but at the end what did you do with the spacer plate between the timing belt and the crank pulley?..I didn't see it putting it back.
I cannot undo our gs300 crank bolt! Starter bump only snapped the pivot on my breaker bar! Bought an impact wrench 450 Nm allegedly but it can't shift it. Any ideas anyone?
Correct me if i,m wrong, i am a Subaru head. But isn't there a mark on the crank gear your suppose to line up with the belt so there are X amount of teeth from point to point?
Great vid. When removing vvti gear( did what u did w/ crescent wrench) the cam moved a little, not exactly sure where it was. My question...Should the cam pins ( that align the sprockets)match each other ? Thanks
Daniel Scribner I'm not sure to be honest. It's been a while, but if you put the cam gear back on, you can see where top dead center is and adjust it real quick.
@@RacecarAndChill, this is a wonderful video and quite detailed. I am planning on doing a bit of refurb on my 2001 IS300 (which I've owned for 18 wonderful years!). I too was wondering about this as I'm planning on replacing the cam seals, crank seal, valve cover gaskets, and water pump when I do the timing belt. It's just shy of 200K miles and leaking a bit of oil from the valve covers. So as I understand it, when the VVTi (intake) pulley was removed, there was some play in the VVTi gear, causing the timing mark to move counterclockwise. I guess this could be prevented by removing the VVTi bolts with the old timing belt in place. But, if the VVTi gear moves during this process, how do you put it back to TDC? I guess you put the pulley back on and then turn the outside of the pulley so that it's at TDC while keeping the camshaft in place with a crescent wrench (with valve cover off of course)? Thanks so much!
@@craigwalsh8116 it's ok if the intake cam moves a tiny bit. The vvti gear has play in it and it will compensate when you put it back together. It all goes together only one way.
Harmonic balancer is on a keyway, as it's important it doesn't spin on the crank so I don't know how you've determined that the engine tightens the crank bolt on its own. The bolt has a torque of 239ft-lbf, that's why it's tight. It's not self tightening
@@RacecarAndChill the bolt doesn't see any torque from the balancer spinning because it's on a keyway. It's not like putting a grinding disc on a grinder... You shouldnt be expecting the engine to tighten that bolt because it won't dude
@@dyl-ov9sm what I meant was the engine wont be trying to pull the bolt out either. So tightening it as much as you can is fine. The 2×× torque spec listed for the crank bolt is a little overkill imo. To each their own, this is how I've always done it and I've never had one come loose. Next time you have to take that thing off, you'll be happy you didnt tighten it to spec.
@@RacecarAndChill 3/4 inch impact gun for removal or bid braker bar, imagine someone new to all this just nipping it up thinking the engine will tighten it when it won't at all. Needs doing up tight as what you torque it to will be as tight as it gets
My 14mm bolt on the serpentine belt tensioner just keeps spinning and doesn't "lock" in place so that I can loosen the tension(the one at @2:52). Will it back out from the vibrations of the engine and shoot the gear out or something like that?
Dc2 that's weird...did the pulley spin while you were turning the bolt? I would try to take it out and inspect it. The bolt may be damaged or someone else put the wrong bolt in there. I'm not sure if it could back out to be honest.
Thank you for motivating me to do the shit myself.first timing belt and water pump i have replaced went flawlessly following your directions.i marked the exhaust and the vvti my dumbass forgot to mark the cam but i had everything timed and tdc before i removed the belt so i just followed the marks with the new belt on exhaust and vvti then i barely loosened the tensioner and slid the belt over the cam to were there was no room to have it off by a tooth then cranked her by hand didnt feel different then before so i put everything back then sent it!shes running fine so im assuming my timing was good.2001 gs300 running for another 60k thanks again bro
Great video I've been watching a few as I knew mine was due here real soon and by far yours is very intuitive and you keep it simple and easy to comprehend, mine is a 2003 is300 and I'm changing the water pump, so I have the kit with belt and timing tensioner and new spring tensioner, I have a spare 2001 to tinker on as an experiment to see how it goes, taking it all apart is easy, its lining that belt up, cause in the spare engine the darn cams move, so its kinda intimidating any tips in putting on the belt and keeping the cams from moving thanks...
Michael Phillips Thank you! As far as tips, try to out the belt on all the gears first and the tentioner last. And once you have it on, rotate the crank by hand two full revolutions and. If the cams are still in time, you're good to go! It's kind of a pain in the ass, because the belt is so tight even before you pull them pin on the tentioner, so barely have the belt on as you make your way around the gears. Don't be scared, you got this!
Michael Phillips it might take you've few tries to get the belt on right, but it's just a trial and error thing. I had issues where the exhaust cam would be off by a tooth or two by the time I got the whole belt on. Just take it off and try again. Don't pull the pin on the tentioner until you're positive!
gonna give it a go, and will mark out the old belt before removal, and gears, then match up the new belt and mark it out on it. just as a safety measure if anything else.. the spare engine really helped in doing it first but I believe it can easily be done as long as you go slow and even take a few pics before taking apart some of the parts so one can keep track the order etc... thanks again sir...i'll post once ive got it done gonna do on a weekend as i'll have extra time...
JZ-Chassis the bolts for the valve cover do not need to be very tight at all, I don't know what the torque is, but just make sure to not over tighten them. They break real easy. Make sure to use a small ratchet on them, you won't realize how tight you get it with a large one.
If you use the starter bump method do you have to turn the crank over (by hand of course) one full pass (through al the cylinders) to get TDC or can you just turn the crank to make all the marks lined up? Also when you say TDC do you mean for cylinder 1 to be up top or doesn't matter what cylinder?
philo lee It doesn't matter. You can just turn it to tdc. But remember, that it takes 2 full revolutions on the crank for the cams to come all the way around.
philo lee Oh and usually, it's cylinder 1 to be at the top, but the crank also has a tdc mark on it. I just prefer to use the mark on the crank, but if you want to stick a screwdriver in cylinder 1 to check, it'll be the same thing.
Curious on the bump start, did you disable any sort of ignition? I have an gs300 with an aristo gte mated to an auto, I’m honestly a wee bit terrified of bumping the starter but I’m diving into the job head first to make sure it’s reliable for a long time. My other question is, if you bump the starter wouldn’t it knock the crank pulley/cam gears out of time? Any advice is helpful.
You dont have to do anything about the ignition. You're not cranking the car long enough to start it. And no, the cam and crank rotate together, so they will stay in time, as long as your timing belt is on.
Dc2 I like the kits you can get from Amazon or rock auto. Gates and aisin are good brands. Not really any you should avoid though. Just make sure it has cam seals and a crank seal, water pump, timing belt tentioner and timing belt pulley.
Stan, so in the case of the new belt, at what point do you make the marks on it, dude?? And what's the purpose of marking the old belt? ...I mean, the belt is round and why does it matter how it's clocked? I just want to know, do you do something to the new belt or just make sure all the pulleys are centered and just put it(belt) on? Edit: Or do you just lay the new belt over the old and mark it? ...Then, do you have to account for the belt streching?
+Rasputin 883 the new belt doesn't have to be marked. I just marked the old belt since I was re using it. You don't really have to if you're sure that you have the cams and crank all timed correctly. It's just extra insurance to be sure. And the timing belt won't stretch, so no need to account for it.
Do you offer a hands on hands training. ! Lol .. I wanna do mine I just been studying like crazy. ....... For the crank shaft and cam shafts can use a chain wrench to hold it in place??
Jimmy Lopez if you're in Phoenix, I wouldn't mind helping out! But you can use whatever you want to hold the crank in place! It's ok if it moves just a little. As long as you move it back before you put the belt back on.
Great video! Is there some type of tooth or set notch on the VVTi gear or cam when reinstalling? Similar to the exhaust side? The 30deg of play worries me and want to be sure it's still at TDC.
Todd Keenan it doesn't matter where the vvti gear is. But most people turn it all the way to the right. As long as the timing marks line up, the computer will take care of the rest.
great video, what are the specs of your turbo set up. do you have a thicker head gasket or gte pistons and rods in the bottom end? are you stand alone or piggy back?
You're amazing does this work also on 2002 GS 300 Sport design? I hope I don't run into this problem but this was very informative! Hope you do more videos!
Where did you get your idler pulley? I've gone to multiple part stores and theirs is too big, the bolt won't thread all the way and it ends up hitting the covers. TIA
Ernesto Medina I actually got it from autozone and it doesn't really fit really well either. I had to flip it up side down. But I know you can buy just the bearing for your stock idler from Amazon. That's also the cheapest option.
Thanks! A head gasket job is a little more involved. The two has studs closest to the firewall are too long to let the head lift off of it, so you need to take out the studs before pulling the head. But if you want to get technical, the shop manual suggest you pull the engine to do it. But I have seen it done in the car for sure. I would plan a whole weekend to do it just in case.
I bought the Aisin tkt-031 water pump timing belt kit and my mechanic saying the water pump doesn't fit the pulley on my stock 2jzge on my 2002 Lexus IS 300. Any thoughts on this? Was this different on '02 than other years??
Nothing is different, all years are the same. You have to take the pulley off of the old water pump and take the studs too. The pulley and studs get transferred to the new pump and it should all fit. I just looked up that kit and I actually used the same one on my other IS300, so that is the correct one. The only thing I can think of is if you have some kind of aftermarket pulley on your water pump, but even then, if it fit on the old water pump, then it should fit on the new one. Maybe it's time you look into another mechanic? Let me know if I can answer any other questions. Or if you're in Phoenix, I could check it out for you.
John Paul Neri Technically, it doesn't matter if it moves, but what the manual says is to rotate it all the way to the left and line it up at tdc before putting the belt on.
This video is awesome 👏🏼I think I’m gonna attempt this on my spring break if I have enough cash to get all the parts. I have an 04 With 160k+ miles and I am not sure any of this stuff has been replaced. I feel like all this was pretty straight forward it’s basically just remembering how to put everything back correctly. I changed my serpentine belt when I first got it May of 2016 that was a piece of cake! I think I’m gonna replace the spark plugs too.
Shrake Down you can totally do it! It's not very difficult! And yea, I would agree that you should replace all of the spark plugs too. Check out the links in the description. That's basically all you need and a few tools rented from autozone. They're free to rent as long as you bring them back.
RacecarAndChill Sweet man, I’ll definitely check out the tool rental link for sure as I did not see it when I was looking at the parts link but I’ll definitely revisit lol I’m only 24 and go to school and work so money is definitely kinda tight I do have the basic socket set and spark plug socket but I will need to rent everything else I am considering buying a cordless impact and or drill since I am a welding student it would help in general. Also I’ll have to look for videos on the bump start too that is really my only concern. My car is also automatic so would I have to put it at least in low gear I have the weird auto/manual option with Eshift so maybe I can still put it in 5th when trying to loosen it.
Shrake Down I think you misunderstood. There is no link for the tool rental, but maybe I'll put one on there. So all the auto transmissions have the e shift option, but no need to put it in any gear, just leave it in park. For the starter bump method, just wedge a breaker bar between the ground and the car. Maybe I'll make a video for the starter bump method if there isn't any good ones around.
RacecarAndChill Okay ya I misread lol there are only like two or three tools and a couple hex heads that I’d need. I’ll just have to look around for the bump start. Thanks again for making this video and great job on the editing!
So on the vvti gear the side to side play make any difference when timing just have to make sure it's in tdc or is it supposed to be in a certain position ?
I have a question I'm doing the timing belt on my is300 I did the cam seal and put cover and vvti pulley back on. When I torqued it down the gear shifted belt was not on. I moved the gear to the far left and move the cam to align. How much play does vvti gear have without the belt? Would I'd be safe in this regard or should but the timing gear in rotate to feel any resistance? Cheers thankyou your video is awesome
Hey man, This video is awesome! I have a is300 and I have a few questions I would love to throw your way. I live in Phoenix and was wondering if you would be open to helping me out. Cheers!
Awesome video!! 👍🏽👍🏽 I noticed the antifreeze coming out of your car isn’t the red stuff like in my car. Is there a reason you used a different antifreeze? Thanks man.
I flush mine way more often than the suggested interval, so I just use the green stuff. The Toyota red is good stuff, it's just expensive because it's supposed to last long.
Hey Stan, do you have any pointers or suggestions on how to "lock" the engine from spinning, if the car is an auto?? (Kit, plugs, wires are in the mail and I want to make sure I do things right, man.). ...Or anyone else? :) Thanks.
Thanks, man! ...Thanks you for getting back lightning quick, bro! ...So just bump and adjust the cams to TDC if they moved? Got ya! Have a good night. Thanks again. Edit: Background WOOO! LOL!
What did you do for the seals? Like grease wise I’ve seen people put grease on the inside of the ring then a sealant on the outside is this what you did?
Thanks & very helpful. On the VVTI pulley, when you turned it left and right 15 degrees you said that is normal. My VVTI timing marks were off. I can reset them by hand turning it on the mark & making sure there is still play, 15 degrees both right and left. I want to make sure I am doing this correct. Thanks in advance. It's my first timing replacing all of the seals and valve cover gaskets. Hope I'm understood. JT
Yea it sounds like you got it! It doesnt matter which direction the play in the vvti gear is. As long as its timed right, the ecu will compensate for the last 15 degrees.
Hello was wondering if someone could help my car is a JDM 93 supra 2jzge non vvti engine starts then stalls ran codes and have 24 & 31 which is maf sensor related however my car has map sensor I’ve replaced so far the valve cover gaskets cleaned pcv valve installed new distributor cap rotor button spark plugs and spark plug wires still have same issue if someone could help me diagnose further or may know a solution that I’m not thinking about I would appreciate it thank you.
kyle warren good luck! It should all be exactly the same as this! I put links in the description on parts. The only things not in those links are spark plugs and valve cover gaskets.
RacecarAndChill is it better or is it safe to jack up the car and placed in the jack stands when removing all the pulleys, bolts, belts, water pump etc? Thanks
Lebron Jordan I did most of this with the car on the ground, and I'm kinda short so that helped me reach into the bay. But if the car is pretty low, it would help to jack it up. But you dont really need to get under the car for much after pulling the radiator.
If you are going to do this service yoruself and are looking for a suggestion on which kit to buy, I recommend this one on Amazon: amzn.to/2ttSvtp
Yup, that's the one that I got, man. Just waiting for the warmer weather... "Currently unavailable" cause I think I got the last one. ...I'm surprised they didn't get more,cause I bought mine a while ago. :/
GreyTriadPrecept oh Wow! Thanks for letting me know! I may change the link then!
Dude, that kit hasn't been available for at least like three months. It's pretty good bro, it has a lot of things. ...I had to grab it. -It's- *was* probably the best kit available on there. :)
I've just clicked on the Amazon supplier of these parts. Silly question I'm sure, but would my right hand drive be the same ?
Why did you mark the timing belt at TDC? For a person installing a new timing belt, does it matter how it is installed?
Finally getting semi-warm weather here. I feel like I've been watching this video like a school book. Again, thanks for posting this in human, instructional terms. Have a good one.
Just successfully did the timing belt, water pump and crank seal on my GS300 over the weekend, thank you for making this video. I watched it once and was able to crack on until I got to the crank seal. Cheers from New Zealand! :)
Troy w glad to help! Cheers!
I have done this job on my 2JZGE Lexus GS300 3 times, but never had to remove radiator/fan assembly even using the same basic tools you used. The bump start method to break loose the Crank pully bolt loose DOES work. It lifted the front end of my car a bit, but it did work. Learned that trick many years ago. This video is a nice tutorial. Keep up the good work!
Thank you! The radiator and fan assembly comes out super easy so that's why I took it out. It's worth spending the 10 minutes to pull it to have the space. I wonder if the GS has more room than the IS. There is no way to get a puller onto the crank without taking the fans off the IS.
Not sure about the differences in front end clearance(s) as to crank pulley extraction so it might be different on the IS vs. GS. Nonetheless, great video of the process on a 2JZ.
Thank you for the very detailed video. I just picked up an is300 with 125k miles for 2800 but it's leaking oil from everywhere. I just replaced the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs, and will be doing my water pump, cam seals, crank seals, timing belt and replacing my vvti gear instead of just the leaking seal this weekend. I'm a little nervous but I'm hoping I can do everything right and save myself the money on labor. Wish me luck!
Dylan Uribe you got this! It's not hard at all! Post up if you have any questions. And you can rent the pulley puller from autozone for free if you don't have one.
If I want to do the starter bump on an automatic, do I keep it in park? Or what should I put it in
Put it in neutral! Make sure the ebrake is up so the car doesn't roll.
RacecarAndChill okay so I put the car in neutral with e brake, place the breaker bar on the crank bolt so it’s solid on the floor, then I give the key a quick turn but not enough to start the engine?
Dylan Uribe yea, but unplug the spark plugs to make sure it doesn't start!
Havent watched the whole thing but can tell this is a high quality vid. Thanks for posting and now i'll finish it!
You can do this!
I have a question I'm doing the timing belt on my is300 I did the cam seal and put cover and vvti pulley back on. When I torqued it down the gear shifted belt was not on. I moved the gear to the far left and move the cam to align. How much play does vvti gear have without the belt? Would I'd be safe in this regard or should but the timing gear in rotate to feel any resistance? Cheers thankyou your video is awesome
The vvti gear has 30 degrees of play, 15 in each direction. It doesn't matter how much play is in it when you assemble it. The ecu will compensate. Just make sure the timing marks all line up.
@@RacecarAndChill so my gear only goes counter clock wise at full 30 degree its stops doesnt go any further and is slightly off of the submark(circle indentation) but when rotated clockwise all the way till it stops rotating it's full 30 degrees it's back at tdc is that good? As long as the tdc lines up correct? I turned the engine as you did and everything line up after two rotations of the crank. Is the submark should be ignored when turning full 30 degrees counterclockwise if dose not line up. Thanks again sorry for all the questions
I wish I would have found this video before having my mechanic do my timing belt -- great video.
I wish you would have gone into detail about properly setting the intake vvti camshaft before slipping on the belt. I just did my SC300 and it idled like crap because I didn't set the intake camshaft at 0° although the vvti cam gear was on the mark. I'm currently having to do it all again just to reset the intake cam.
Richard Weapons if the cam gear is at zero, the ecu will compensate for the play in the vvti gear. It might have rotated a tooth while you were slipping the belt on.
Couldn’t you break the cam pulley lose when the timing belt is on and avoid the need to remove the valve covers?
407ForRent that's a great idea actually, I don't see why it would not work that way
Yes, you can. I did it like that on my 1j vvti, I just marked the hose and the cam gears and made sure they were put back in the same spot.
Do you have to replace timing belt tensioner every time you change timing belt? Im getting new timing belt installed but mechanic never meant tensioner
Yea, the tensioner should be replaced too.
Best video of this procedure for this car on youtube, hands down.
Thank you!
I can't see how anyone can give this video a thumbs down, I'm more of a visual learner as well and this was done correctly.
Reddy Reg Thank you. I had someone go through all of my videos and give them all a thumbs down with like 8 accounts. Gotta love the haters. There's no way it was natural, literally all of my videos got like 7 or 8 thumbs down on the same day. But thank you for the kind words!
No problem, keep it coming
Was not done correctly!! The engine should be at 60TDC and cams on dots.
ill keep that in mind. knowledge is infinite .@@jdub6797
to loosen the crank pulley the wrapping the sep belt around crank method is the way to go, i used to do it the start with a breaker bar to the ground but it’s not as safe and makes you feel a little scared and on one of my auto i accidentally had it on the wrong side and the bar flew up and hit my transmission cooler line and broke the fitting off so i prefer the sep belt method 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I notice at 38:00 the cams moved a little bit when you were putting back the harmonic balancer. Do you just turn it back a little after you’re don’t tightening so it lines back up to TDC?
Aye I have a question about the fluidmpr valancer.
I got one for my GE but i saw/heard you mentioned that is setup different then the OE one
Can you explain why and what should i do for my GE ?
Its only difference is the timing markings. This will not improve performance on a stock GE.
your the best , I was afraid of doing it because I was confused about the pulley and the crank but after watching this you made it really easy , but I wished you explained how to remove the water pump , thanks anyway
Husain Alkhamees the water pump is easy, a bunch of 10mm bolts on the front, and 2 on the side I think. It's very straight forward. Just make sure you replace the o ring that goes into the block. Most waterpumps come with it.
I seen that , thanks , I noticed before you took the timing belt off , you marked it with the dash , but then when you installedit again , you didn't put the timing belt the same way it was marked with the dash , does it matter? also should I use a torque with pulley?
Husain Alkhamees it doesn't matter. The reason I marked my belt is to show that you can do that to make sure you put the car back in tdc before putting it all together if you're reusing the belt like I was.
RacecarAndChill no I'm putting a new belt
Then you should be good. Just make sure your timing marks line up and you're ready to put her back together!
I'll need this video come spring...just picked up my 3rd IS300, second 5-Speed and I think the timing belt is due.
Dustin Casper nice find!
I have a 98 Lexus GS300 and I think my timing belt is bad to the point the car won't start . I believe the cogs on the belt are gone . This engine was not running when this happened but I was turning the motor over trying to start it. Do you think I bent my valves by trying to start it?
You're gonna have to take off the upper timing cover and check the timing. It can be off a few teeth and still be ok. But if it skipped more than a few teeth, it's probably hurt. Is that a vvti engine? If it's not, you'll be ok.
I usually dont comment but this is the best tutorial ive seen and ive seen many. I feel confident to work on my gs300 now! Thanks!
Happy to help! Thanks for commenting!
*The have ratchet wrenches on the market they come in handy for that crank puller*
How much would it cost approx to do water pump and timing belt and crank and cam seals if I provide all the parts and coolant so charge for only labor
Could I break the bolts loose on the cam and vvti gears with the timing belt still installed so I don't have to remove my valve covers? I did the valve cover gasket/spark plug job a couple months ago and don't need to replace those gaskets again.
I've never done it this way, so I'm not positive. The only issue I can foresee is the vvti gear will want to turn anyway because it has play in it naturally
I Like how precise you were with the measurements on the sockets... well done bro
Luis Pardo thanks man. Glad to help!
If you put a new timing belt; will it have tdc marks? Or do you just throw on a new belt and mark it up with the camshaft gears? Thanks and good tutorial
A new belt will be blank, so you will have to just set the gears. Good luck!
@@RacecarAndChill so put the new belt on when crank, and cams are tdc. Then mark?
@@Bassett515 no need to mark the belt if all 3 pulleys are at tdc!
Nice video man! Educational and detailed like I like!🤘😜
Thanks man! I hate how long it ended up being, but there was so much to go over that I didn't want to skip like the other DIY's do. Still so much work to do on the channel, but it has begun!
I feel that way sometimes with my videos. It depends on what you're doing in the video. If it needs detailed instruction like a timing belt should then that's good, but other things you can get away with a higher level overview. Keep up the good work man!
Thanks man. I'm learning from the best! So don't stop doing what you're doing!
RacecarAndChill Haha! Thanks man
I am changing only harmonic balancer on my gs300 that has same engine. Not changing timing belt at all. Do i need to worry about timing or position of harmonic balancer when i restart engine
V B you should be ok, but I would double check it just in case.
Thanks
Woww this is the best video ive ever seen of work being done on this car, everything was covered and well explained and definitly giving me more confidence to get it done myself !!! Indeed a perfect video for a visual learner.. Thank you so much !
Sam Gauthier my pleasure! Good luck and post up if you have any questions!
Tell us about you turbo setup? How you built it etc. what type of fuel?
407ForRent check out the video where I talk about it! ruclips.net/video/Yr5_m4CoRjE/видео.html
I'm having mine done by a friend. He got the timing belt changed out but he used the dots instead of the dashes, we haven't tried starting it yet but we'll be putting the rest back together and trying to start it tomorrow. At this point should we go back and re-align the marks? If so what should we turn to re-align the marks? The cams themselves or the crank?
What would you recommend for auto transmissions for the bump start method? Just keep it in park?
Yea. Just keep it in park. If you can't get the crank bolt off that way, you will need the Toyota tool that will hold the engine from turning over.
@@RacecarAndChill okay thank you. This is the first automatic I've ever worked on, im used to manual transmissions lol as well as my first vvti system doing all cam seals and crank seal. Im at 145k odo so I figured its time to refresh everything, especially cuz my cam seals are leaking lol
One question would i do anything differnt since my belt broke at a idle? becuase my marks were not at tdc when it broke
You'll have to get it back to tdc before you put the new belt on. Which engine do you have? Some engines are interference engines... meaning if the belt breaks the valves will get smashed by the pistons and you'll need a whole rebuild.
@@RacecarAndChill 98 gs300 2jz ge so im pretty sure its a non interference i hope and pray it is im already tearing it down and have the new belt.im waiting on a ride to go rent crank puller.im trying to be positive it was at a idle when it broke a fucking pos butt connector fell down in there and it snapped.ok so i should just turn it to dtc after i put the belt on right?
@@RacecarAndChill I know exactly what it interference engine is and I don't think I have one so I'm good everybody got the timing belt I wish I could upload a video do you have any other way that I can upload you a video of what I'm doing so far or we could like live chat my name on Facebook is Christa dickson if you can maybe call me on Facebook Messenger
if you use the starter bump method wouldn't that turn the engine over enough to take it off TDC? you would have to align in to TDC again correct?
Yes, but not by much. You can turn it over by hand to line it back up once you get the bolt broken loose.
Great video. I have a leaky crank seal and valve covers. Im gonna replace all the seals and do a timing kit. Thanks for the video
David Calhoun glad to help! Let me know If you have any questions!
on my is300 it was a 22 mm crank bolt. but my 2jz ge came off a Toyota aristo from Japan so it may be different
Dell Oneyo Good to know! I didn't know the aristo was different!
Might want to confirm but yeah. the bolt configuration on the JDM aristo water pump pulley is different too. I'm replacing the water pump and the JDM pulley won't fit on the US pump LOL
What if you're putting on a brand new timing belt, just put it on there as snug as possible starting at the top cams? I ask because you marked your belt you're reusing.
Adam Francuzik yea just get it on tight and double check your timing before pulling the pin on the tensioner. You can also count the teeth on the belt.
Yo. This video was fucking amazing. Great instructions, to the point with explanations for damn near everything. Subbed.
Thank you!
Thanks again for this. Just spent the weekend doing this job in my driveway. All front seals, t belt, wp, tensioner, plugs, coils, wires, and a bunch of other maintenance made easy by this video
@@aeok18109 glad to help! Happy you got all that taken care of!
@@RacecarAndChill spoke to soon. It cranks but won't turn over. Timing is correct. Wtf
@@aeok18109 is it throwing any codes? You must have left something unplugged.
Many thanks brother for this great video. I will be starting the repairs on my 2jz. I'm visually oriented and this is a lot of help.
Sup I'm Mario .... my crank shaft is not top dead center but complete opposite... that was done by hand tring 2 fixing it tried to start but just clicked once. Is there a way I can still turn The crank shaft top center?
Awesome set of instructions!...Really great!...but, I need someone experienced to do this job in my lovely GS300 with 220k miles (and a big delay in the timing belt change as i could read casually some weeks ago) near Miami, 'cause i have the will but not the experience nor the needed tools to do the job....some advice, please?
Melox2010 sorry I don't know anyone in Miami, but really the only special tool you absolutely need is a pulley puller which you can rent from autozone. I hope others can chime in here that have more experience in Miami. If you were in AZ I would do this for you real cheap!
Thanks, bro...I'll think about!...
these are the only two tools you'll need to do the job, one is 20.00 the other 15.00 get these and as he was saying in his reply to me ive found it was quite easy to take apart, its the belt aligning that's the difficult part, try marking the belt in several places before taking off, and then mark the gears as well, and math up the other belt to the old and remark on the new belt. hope that helps
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007UQLQQ4
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072TZC1VX
GE VVTi are interference. GTE are NON-interference motors IF both are stock forms. love the video though
Alina Orlova so a is300 stock can break the belt and not break any valves ?
@@andrewkitchens3917 i think is300 stock is VVTi GE so it will break your valves. Don't take any chances, it's not worth it
@@rodionlitvinoff oh, i didnt know that all IS300's came with a VVTI head. I thought it was only some of them that has it badged on the cover.
any VVTi - equipped 2JZ is interference
1992-1997 SC300 and Supras are non-interference, regardless of GE or GTE
Any 2JZ from 1998 and onwards is VVTi and therefore interference. This includes all 98-00 SC300s and Supras and IS300s and GS300s
@@flyingmonkeyofus The 2JZ-GTE VVTI has a larger headgasket than the GE which eliminates interference.
can u safely do the bump start method for crank bolt with an auto transmission?
If you are using a breaker bar to loosen the Harmonic balancer, how do you tighten it up to the same tension?
Richard Hall the same way, you put the engine in gear. But the rotation on the engine also tightens it, so it's not that important to really crank it down.
Is there a way to do the starter bump in an automatic?
Yea, same process.
@@RacecarAndChill Would I just put it in drive then or keep it in park?
@@luuck4235 keep it in park. Make sure the engine does not start. You really only have to hit the starter for just a second.
@@RacecarAndChill Thank you
I just picked up a is300 3 days ago and been researching on how to replace timing belt. I'm also in Phoenix. Would you be willing to do the job?
Thanks for the video! While I was taking the VVTi gear out, the threads on the first hex head bolt stripped. The threads on the gear stripped too. I ordered a new VVTi gear, but it does not come with the bolt. Does anybody know how or where I could find that?
Bummer. Sorry to hear that. I would suggest a junk yard. I don't know anyone that sells them.
Did you try a dealer?
I just saw your video but at the end what did you do with the spacer plate between the timing belt and the crank pulley?..I didn't see it putting it back.
I put it back. The curved part goes facing the belt so the lip is facing the cover.
How do you deal with the slack in the vvti cam when putting on the belt? Seems to turn really easy when put a fresh new belt on
Transmission lines at bottom of the radiator ?
In the automatics, the radiator has a built in transmission cooler as well.
Hey man, so I'm doing mine right now. I have it at TDC but when I use the harmonic balancer, it turns the crank off of TDC. Any idea what I can do?
I have this same question. Did you figure it out?
I cannot undo our gs300 crank bolt! Starter bump only snapped the pivot on my breaker bar! Bought an impact wrench 450 Nm allegedly but it can't shift it. Any ideas anyone?
Get a better breaker bar and hit the starter again.
I am going to change my vtti cam is the timing mark going to be different when I put in the new one meaning is it going to be on the dot or like mark
John Paul Neri itll be the exact same. No need to stress about it.
Correct me if i,m wrong, i am a Subaru head. But isn't there a mark on the crank gear your suppose to line up with the belt so there are X amount of teeth from point to point?
There are no marks on the belt. Just the gears, but all three gears have marks.
Great vid. When removing vvti gear( did what u did w/ crescent wrench) the cam moved a little, not exactly sure where it was. My question...Should the cam pins ( that align the sprockets)match each other ? Thanks
Daniel Scribner I'm not sure to be honest. It's been a while, but if you put the cam gear back on, you can see where top dead center is and adjust it real quick.
@@RacecarAndChill, this is a wonderful video and quite detailed. I am planning on doing a bit of refurb on my 2001 IS300 (which I've owned for 18 wonderful years!). I too was wondering about this as I'm planning on replacing the cam seals, crank seal, valve cover gaskets, and water pump when I do the timing belt. It's just shy of 200K miles and leaking a bit of oil from the valve covers. So as I understand it, when the VVTi (intake) pulley was removed, there was some play in the VVTi gear, causing the timing mark to move counterclockwise. I guess this could be prevented by removing the VVTi bolts with the old timing belt in place. But, if the VVTi gear moves during this process, how do you put it back to TDC? I guess you put the pulley back on and then turn the outside of the pulley so that it's at TDC while keeping the camshaft in place with a crescent wrench (with valve cover off of course)? Thanks so much!
@@craigwalsh8116 it's ok if the intake cam moves a tiny bit. The vvti gear has play in it and it will compensate when you put it back together. It all goes together only one way.
@@RacecarAndChill Wow, thanks for the quick reply! I wish I lived a bit closer to Phoenix!
Great video...does it work with 2000 sienna thx
jirojoseph esman this will for sure not work on your 2000 Siena. 😂
Harmonic balancer is on a keyway, as it's important it doesn't spin on the crank so I don't know how you've determined that the engine tightens the crank bolt on its own. The bolt has a torque of 239ft-lbf, that's why it's tight. It's not self tightening
The rotation of the engine is in the direction of tightening it. If you get it as tight as you can by hand, its not going anywhere.
@@RacecarAndChill the bolt doesn't see any torque from the balancer spinning because it's on a keyway. It's not like putting a grinding disc on a grinder... You shouldnt be expecting the engine to tighten that bolt because it won't dude
@@dyl-ov9sm what I meant was the engine wont be trying to pull the bolt out either. So tightening it as much as you can is fine. The 2×× torque spec listed for the crank bolt is a little overkill imo. To each their own, this is how I've always done it and I've never had one come loose. Next time you have to take that thing off, you'll be happy you didnt tighten it to spec.
@@RacecarAndChill 3/4 inch impact gun for removal or bid braker bar, imagine someone new to all this just nipping it up thinking the engine will tighten it when it won't at all. Needs doing up tight as what you torque it to will be as tight as it gets
My 14mm bolt on the serpentine belt tensioner just keeps spinning and doesn't "lock" in place so that I can loosen the tension(the one at @2:52). Will it back out from the vibrations of the engine and shoot the gear out or something like that?
Dc2 that's weird...did the pulley spin while you were turning the bolt? I would try to take it out and inspect it. The bolt may be damaged or someone else put the wrong bolt in there. I'm not sure if it could back out to be honest.
Hey man. Did you have to align the timing belt with piston #1 being all the way up?
Thank you
Yes. You want to make sure the crankshaft and both cams are all lined up together.
Best timing belt replacement video
Thank you! I hope it answered all your questions!
Thank you for motivating me to do the shit myself.first timing belt and water pump i have replaced went flawlessly following your directions.i marked the exhaust and the vvti my dumbass forgot to mark the cam but i had everything timed and tdc before i removed the belt so i just followed the marks with the new belt on exhaust and vvti then i barely loosened the tensioner and slid the belt over the cam to were there was no room to have it off by a tooth then cranked her by hand didnt feel different then before so i put everything back then sent it!shes running fine so im assuming my timing was good.2001 gs300 running for another 60k thanks again bro
If i was off by a tooth would i even know?
Yea, it wouldnt run very well.
👌.what belt did you jump timing with do you remember?
@@gsgangganggang6445 it was a blue gates racing belt. I think the tensioner used was faulty.
why didn't you put the crank bolt in to turn the engine? Seems like the crescent wrench would cause damage like that
You could do it that way too. There is a tab on the crank that keeps the wrench from slipping, so I wasn't worried about damaging it.
Great video I've been watching a few as I knew mine was due here real soon and by far yours is very intuitive and you keep it simple and easy to comprehend, mine is a 2003 is300 and I'm changing the water pump, so I have the kit with belt and timing tensioner and new spring tensioner, I have a spare 2001 to tinker on as an experiment to see how it goes, taking it all apart is easy, its lining that belt up, cause in the spare engine the darn cams move, so its kinda intimidating any tips in putting on the belt and keeping the cams from moving thanks...
Michael Phillips Thank you! As far as tips, try to out the belt on all the gears first and the tentioner last. And once you have it on, rotate the crank by hand two full revolutions and. If the cams are still in time, you're good to go! It's kind of a pain in the ass, because the belt is so tight even before you pull them pin on the tentioner, so barely have the belt on as you make your way around the gears. Don't be scared, you got this!
Michael Phillips it might take you've few tries to get the belt on right, but it's just a trial and error thing. I had issues where the exhaust cam would be off by a tooth or two by the time I got the whole belt on. Just take it off and try again. Don't pull the pin on the tentioner until you're positive!
gonna give it a go, and will mark out the old belt before removal, and gears, then match up the new belt and mark it out on it. just as a safety measure if anything else.. the spare engine really helped in doing it first but I believe it can easily be done as long as you go slow and even take a few pics before taking apart some of
the parts so one can keep track the order etc... thanks again sir...i'll post once ive got it done gonna do on a weekend as i'll have extra time...
Michael Phillips taking pictures always helps! It's really not that complicated once you get in there! Good luck and please subscribe to the channel!
Did you ever get the service done? How'd it go?
Hey what’s the torque for tightening the cams n bolts
JZ-Chassis the bolts for the valve cover do not need to be very tight at all, I don't know what the torque is, but just make sure to not over tighten them. They break real easy. Make sure to use a small ratchet on them, you won't realize how tight you get it with a large one.
If you use the starter bump method do you have to turn the crank over (by hand of course) one full pass (through al the cylinders) to get TDC or can you just turn the crank to make all the marks lined up?
Also when you say TDC do you mean for cylinder 1 to be up top or doesn't matter what cylinder?
philo lee It doesn't matter. You can just turn it to tdc. But remember, that it takes 2 full revolutions on the crank for the cams to come all the way around.
philo lee Oh and usually, it's cylinder 1 to be at the top, but the crank also has a tdc mark on it. I just prefer to use the mark on the crank, but if you want to stick a screwdriver in cylinder 1 to check, it'll be the same thing.
RacecarAndChill thank you!
Curious on the bump start, did you disable any sort of ignition? I have an gs300 with an aristo gte mated to an auto, I’m honestly a wee bit terrified of bumping the starter but I’m diving into the job head first to make sure it’s reliable for a long time. My other question is, if you bump the starter wouldn’t it knock the crank pulley/cam gears out of time? Any advice is helpful.
You dont have to do anything about the ignition. You're not cranking the car long enough to start it. And no, the cam and crank rotate together, so they will stay in time, as long as your timing belt is on.
Any recommendations on a good timing belt kit with seals? Is there a brand I should avoid?
Dc2 I like the kits you can get from Amazon or rock auto. Gates and aisin are good brands. Not really any you should avoid though. Just make sure it has cam seals and a crank seal, water pump, timing belt tentioner and timing belt pulley.
Dc2 check the description. I have updated it with links!
Stan, so in the case of the new belt, at what point do you make the marks on it, dude?? And what's the purpose of marking the old belt? ...I mean, the belt is round and why does it matter how it's clocked? I just want to know, do you do something to the new belt or just make sure all the pulleys are centered and just put it(belt) on?
Edit: Or do you just lay the new belt over the old and mark it? ...Then, do you have to account for the belt streching?
+Rasputin 883 the new belt doesn't have to be marked. I just marked the old belt since I was re using it. You don't really have to if you're sure that you have the cams and crank all timed correctly. It's just extra insurance to be sure. And the timing belt won't stretch, so no need to account for it.
Do you offer a hands on hands training. ! Lol .. I wanna do mine I just been studying like crazy. ....... For the crank shaft and cam shafts can use a chain wrench to hold it in place??
Jimmy Lopez if you're in Phoenix, I wouldn't mind helping out! But you can use whatever you want to hold the crank in place! It's ok if it moves just a little. As long as you move it back before you put the belt back on.
RacecarAndChill all the GREATS from Houston. Tell Scotty. I said hi lol but ok sounds good thank u for this
Do I have to do a timing belt change the car has a new one however I just want to replace the cam seals and o rings
Great video! Is there some type of tooth or set notch on the VVTi gear or cam when reinstalling? Similar to the exhaust side? The 30deg of play worries me and want to be sure it's still at TDC.
Todd Keenan it doesn't matter where the vvti gear is. But most people turn it all the way to the right. As long as the timing marks line up, the computer will take care of the rest.
RacecarAndChill Awesome! Thanks!
I seen online that u have to.put the engine 15BTDC when doing this job ?
I was confused
Nope. You want it at tdc
@@RacecarAndChill what do u suggest if i took off the tensioner already with the cam gears aligned with the 1st dot instead of line
@@dolflopez821 I would just line everything up so it's the same. Doesnt matter if its tdc or 15 degrees
great video, what are the specs of your turbo set up. do you have a thicker head gasket or gte pistons and rods in the bottom end? are you stand alone or piggy back?
Jice Z not sure if you've seen this, but here is a video with more info on the turbo set up! ruclips.net/video/Yr5_m4CoRjE/видео.html
You're amazing does this work also on 2002 GS 300 Sport design? I hope I don't run into this problem but this was very informative! Hope you do more videos!
Huzefa Joly thank you! This will be the exact same on the GS. Make sure to subscribe so you see the other videos! Plenty more to come!
RacecarAndChill Wow that was fast! And yes I will subscribe can't wait to see your channel grow!
Huzefa Joly thank you! I have big plans!
Would you mark your belt if you’re replacing it? How would that work? Why mark up the belt if you’re gonna put a new one on I don’t know what to do
Joe Martinez no need to mark it if you're putting a new one on. What don't you understand.
Where did you get your idler pulley? I've gone to multiple part stores and theirs is too big, the bolt won't thread all the way and it ends up hitting the covers. TIA
Ernesto Medina I actually got it from autozone and it doesn't really fit really well either. I had to flip it up side down. But I know you can buy just the bearing for your stock idler from Amazon. That's also the cheapest option.
Hey man, great video. How hard is it doing a head gasket replacement?
Thanks! A head gasket job is a little more involved. The two has studs closest to the firewall are too long to let the head lift off of it, so you need to take out the studs before pulling the head. But if you want to get technical, the shop manual suggest you pull the engine to do it. But I have seen it done in the car for sure. I would plan a whole weekend to do it just in case.
I bought the Aisin tkt-031 water pump timing belt kit and my mechanic saying the water pump doesn't fit the pulley on my stock 2jzge on my 2002 Lexus IS 300. Any thoughts on this? Was this different on '02 than other years??
Nothing is different, all years are the same. You have to take the pulley off of the old water pump and take the studs too. The pulley and studs get transferred to the new pump and it should all fit. I just looked up that kit and I actually used the same one on my other IS300, so that is the correct one. The only thing I can think of is if you have some kind of aftermarket pulley on your water pump, but even then, if it fit on the old water pump, then it should fit on the new one. Maybe it's time you look into another mechanic? Let me know if I can answer any other questions. Or if you're in Phoenix, I could check it out for you.
I need help understanding takeing out the vvti cam gear so when it moves 15 degrees do you move it back tdc?
John Paul Neri Technically, it doesn't matter if it moves, but what the manual says is to rotate it all the way to the left and line it up at tdc before putting the belt on.
sorry, rotate all the way to the right. clockwise.
Okay so In at nutshell rotate it back to tdc before you take out the vvti cam gear?
John Paul Neri yup. And the most important part is that it's at tdc before you put it together.
Also is it safe to do the starter bump method since my belt is already broken?
I wouldnt do that if I were you. If the car has vvti and its non turbo, good chance that motor is trashed.
@@RacecarAndChill call christa dickson on facebook messsanger so we can do live facebook chat please
This video is awesome 👏🏼I think I’m gonna attempt this on my spring break if I have enough cash to get all the parts. I have an 04 With 160k+ miles and I am not sure any of this stuff has been replaced. I feel like all this was pretty straight forward it’s basically just remembering how to put everything back correctly. I changed my serpentine belt when I first got it May of 2016 that was a piece of cake! I think I’m gonna replace the spark plugs too.
Shrake Down you can totally do it! It's not very difficult! And yea, I would agree that you should replace all of the spark plugs too. Check out the links in the description. That's basically all you need and a few tools rented from autozone. They're free to rent as long as you bring them back.
RacecarAndChill Sweet man, I’ll definitely check out the tool rental link for sure as I did not see it when I was looking at the parts link but I’ll definitely revisit lol I’m only 24 and go to school and work so money is definitely kinda tight I do have the basic socket set and spark plug socket but I will need to rent everything else I am considering buying a cordless impact and or drill since I am a welding student it would help in general. Also I’ll have to look for videos on the bump start too that is really my only concern. My car is also automatic so would I have to put it at least in low gear I have the weird auto/manual option with Eshift so maybe I can still put it in 5th when trying to loosen it.
Shrake Down I think you misunderstood. There is no link for the tool rental, but maybe I'll put one on there. So all the auto transmissions have the e shift option, but no need to put it in any gear, just leave it in park. For the starter bump method, just wedge a breaker bar between the ground and the car. Maybe I'll make a video for the starter bump method if there isn't any good ones around.
RacecarAndChill Okay ya I misread lol there are only like two or three tools and a couple hex heads that I’d need. I’ll just have to look around for the bump start. Thanks again for making this video and great job on the editing!
Shrake Down Thanks man! Make sure to subscribe for more is300 stuff and comment if you have any questions on anything!
Ik this vid is old but debating if I should get the gates racing kit or the evergreen kit. Appreciate the help!
which kit did you end up going with?
@@flyingmonkeyofus69 my bad man, I went with gates racing
@@MontyT321 no problem man, i ended up going with aisin kit and I've done like 3 timing belt jobs in the meantime
So on the vvti gear the side to side play make any difference when timing just have to make sure it's in tdc or is it supposed to be in a certain position ?
It doesn't matter, as long as when you put the belt on it's in time.
I have a question I'm doing the timing belt on my is300 I did the cam seal and put cover and vvti pulley back on. When I torqued it down the gear shifted belt was not on. I moved the gear to the far left and move the cam to align. How much play does vvti gear have without the belt? Would I'd be safe in this regard or should but the timing gear in rotate to feel any resistance? Cheers thankyou your video is awesome
Hey man, This video is awesome! I have a is300 and I have a few questions I would love to throw your way. I live in Phoenix and was wondering if you would be open to helping me out. Cheers!
Sure, post up your questions here so they can help other people too
What size is the nut on the left cam shaft sprocket? (The blue one) I lost that screw when I took it off...
Briana Pelayo the head is a 17mm. I don't know the rest of the measurement for that bolt. Toyota or Lexus dealer should be able to help you out.
U did that perfect precise explaining now im going to do mines instead of paying somebody else to do it
Glad to help!
Awesome video!! 👍🏽👍🏽 I noticed the antifreeze coming out of your car isn’t the red stuff like in my car. Is there a reason you used a different antifreeze? Thanks man.
I flush mine way more often than the suggested interval, so I just use the green stuff. The Toyota red is good stuff, it's just expensive because it's supposed to last long.
RacecarAndChill
It is expensive stuff. I hear ya there man. With your car boosted are you running a different viscosity oil?
@@dcd4650 I run rotella t-6 5w-40 for oil. It holds up to the abuse of boost better.
@@RacecarAndChillwrong antifreeze lmao
Do you have a torque specs for gs300 is300 timing belt jobs?
No I don't. I didnt really torque anything down. Just use your best judgement. I'm sure you could look up the specs online somewhere.
My passenger side Cam cover will not come loose. ANy suggestions. The left side cover is loose now.
Do you mean the valve cover or the cam cap? I would tap it with a rubber mallet and use a pry bar to pry it off the head
Hey Stan, do you have any pointers or suggestions on how to "lock" the engine from spinning, if the car is an auto?? (Kit, plugs, wires are in the mail and I want to make sure I do things right, man.). ...Or anyone else? :) Thanks.
Rasputin 883 i would just bump the starter once you unplug the plugs and not worry about it.
Thanks, man! ...Thanks you for getting back lightning quick, bro! ...So just bump and adjust the cams to TDC if they moved? Got ya! Have a good night. Thanks again. Edit: Background WOOO! LOL!
What did you do for the seals? Like grease wise I’ve seen people put grease on the inside of the ring then a sealant on the outside is this what you did?
Only grease to help with the install. No need to add sealant.
So if you are just replacing the timing belt, just make sure all three pulley's are at TDC??
Reiner Garcia exactly
great video i got to do the same thing soon
Thank you!
@@RacecarAndChill just a question is there a diffence between the 2j ge and 2j gte gasket kit
@@shaunsegree4587 yes, the valve cover gaskets are different for sure. I think there is other differences too.
@@RacecarAndChill thank you for the info make me finding the right gaskets a lot easier
Thanks & very helpful. On the VVTI pulley, when you turned it left and right 15 degrees you said that is normal. My VVTI timing marks were off. I can reset them by hand turning it on the mark & making sure there is still play, 15 degrees both right and left. I want to make sure I am doing this correct. Thanks in advance. It's my first timing replacing all of the seals and valve cover gaskets. Hope I'm understood.
JT
Yea it sounds like you got it! It doesnt matter which direction the play in the vvti gear is. As long as its timed right, the ecu will compensate for the last 15 degrees.
Hello was wondering if someone could help my car is a JDM 93 supra 2jzge non vvti engine starts then stalls ran codes and have 24 & 31 which is maf sensor related however my car has map sensor I’ve replaced so far the valve cover gaskets cleaned pcv valve installed new distributor cap rotor button spark plugs and spark plug wires still have same issue if someone could help me diagnose further or may know a solution that I’m not thinking about I would appreciate it thank you.
Nice vice. Getting ready to service my wife's 2000 gs300 with 225k.
kyle warren good luck! It should all be exactly the same as this! I put links in the description on parts. The only things not in those links are spark plugs and valve cover gaskets.
Man i did the cam faser wout removing valve covers and now i have a hi idle any ideas
I would check your timing. And check for vacuum leaks.
What kit you use to powder coat?
407ForRent it was not a kit. I just used a generic powder gun and a custom made oven.
I really enjoy the music 😅 and the whole video is great, I learned a lot.
Happy to help!
Great video. This Will help me for my upcoming project...very soon thanks 👍
Lebron Jordan no problem man. Post back here if you have any questions.
RacecarAndChill is it better or is it safe to jack up the car and placed in the jack stands when removing all the pulleys, bolts, belts, water pump etc? Thanks
Lebron Jordan I did most of this with the car on the ground, and I'm kinda short so that helped me reach into the bay. But if the car is pretty low, it would help to jack it up. But you dont really need to get under the car for much after pulling the radiator.
RacecarAndChill thanks bro👍
Lebron Jordan no problem man! Good luck!
Did you convert your throttle to drive by wire?
WhereRichardStay yea its converted to drive by cable.