Google sent me here 1.5 yrs after the party ended. Hopefully you're happily cruising your comet by now. You said the trans mount that MDL sent you didn't fit. Hopefully, MDL knows what they're doing and maybe the problem was that you used a later model of the T5?
The Comet is alive and well! Modern Driveline was really good to deal with on any and all issues. Yea i snagged a local rebuilt T5 which could have been some of the issue. Check out some of the newer videos on the Comet. Recently did a top end rebuild, full custom exhaust, installing an electric fan as we speak, and tomorrow I am back on the dyno
@@truckandroll989 Sounds good. I'm starting a T5 install today and if I don't mess that up I'm putting a Pro Flo 4 injection in my '65 Mustang. Yep, another mustang. Definite cool points for Comet and Falcon,
@@bryanpiereson8083 ive got a lot of experience with EFI conversions. Going port injection is smart. I did the Super Sniper 1250 when it came out on my BBC truck. Ive got some videos on that too. Shoot me a message if you run into a snag with either the T5 or EFI conversion.
ay bro, got a question for ya. anyway you can do a vid on how to use edelbrock spring and rod adjustments for carb tuning? i was following the series where you were beginning to tune that AVS2 carb. I have the same carb on my 84 Buick Regal with a 350 small block and im having trouble getting that car right. No vacuum leaks, everything is connected right. One issue is it idles good in park but when you drop it in gear, the idle drops drastically and almost wants to stall. Thanks bro!
So a couple things. Yes maybe I can do a more in depth video in the future on rods/springs. But for starters a few general comments. The spring changes wont change how much fuel the carb sees just when you transition. So a lighter or heavier spring change will affect the point at which the carb transitions from lean to rich or vice versa based on vacuum. Think more pressing on gas = less vacuum = transition to rods popping up to allow more fuel through the jet. A stronger spring will require more vacuum to keep it held down… anyways i digress. So on an automatic car the rpm WILL drop from P to Drive. You should read edelbrocks instructions carefully. Most of my cars are sticks so its “easier” but sometimes they call for adjustments to be made with the engine warmed up, in drive, with someone holding foot on brake. You really want to have it tuned correctly for Drive vs sitting in park which might mean adjusting your idle up to say 600rpm in drive even though that might cause a higher idle in P. Similarly you may need to adjust idle mixture in drive with a helper holding foot on brake or wtv.
@@truckandroll989 I really appreciate the advice brother. Im going to go ahead and try that. And yes, its an automatic with a turbo 350 trans. Last time i tuned it with a vacuum gauge, my best idle/hightest vacuum was 13 hg. I installed the pink edelbrock springs which was half of that, which is what the tuning manual says and i thought it was fine at first but its definitely off now. Once again, thanks bro.
As long as all of the bolts and pins line up (engine to bellhousing) I wouldn’t worry about it. It was straight up and down for me but that was a Ford. I think you are fine
No i did not. Sorry do you mean to check concentricity of the bellhousing to the crankshaft where the input shaft goes into the pilot bearing? Ive heard of doing that before and you can use offset dowels to correct errors - i did not do that step and so far in my life have gotten lucky. I think for this install one mistake I made was regarding the spacer beneath the nipple that engages the clutch fork. I followed the instructions exactly and made a custom shim to get it to be 3.2”. However it needed to be much larger to better place my clutch fork back deeper towards the transmission
@@truckandroll989 I'm doing the modern driveline install in my 63 Fairlane also. So that nipple/ stud needs to be lifted out from the bell more than 3 inches to work better ? What bellhouseing did you use ?
Google sent me here 1.5 yrs after the party ended. Hopefully you're happily cruising your comet by now. You said the trans mount that MDL sent you didn't fit. Hopefully, MDL knows what they're doing and maybe the problem was that you used a later model of the T5?
The Comet is alive and well! Modern Driveline was really good to deal with on any and all issues. Yea i snagged a local rebuilt T5 which could have been some of the issue. Check out some of the newer videos on the Comet. Recently did a top end rebuild, full custom exhaust, installing an electric fan as we speak, and tomorrow I am back on the dyno
@@truckandroll989 Sounds good. I'm starting a T5 install today and if I don't mess that up I'm putting a Pro Flo 4 injection in my '65 Mustang. Yep, another mustang. Definite cool points for Comet and Falcon,
@@bryanpiereson8083 ive got a lot of experience with EFI conversions. Going port injection is smart. I did the Super Sniper 1250 when it came out on my BBC truck. Ive got some videos on that too. Shoot me a message if you run into a snag with either the T5 or EFI conversion.
ay bro, got a question for ya. anyway you can do a vid on how to use edelbrock spring and rod adjustments for carb tuning? i was following the series where you were beginning to tune that AVS2 carb. I have the same carb on my 84 Buick Regal with a 350 small block and im having trouble getting that car right. No vacuum leaks, everything is connected right. One issue is it idles good in park but when you drop it in gear, the idle drops drastically and almost wants to stall. Thanks bro!
So a couple things. Yes maybe I can do a more in depth video in the future on rods/springs. But for starters a few general comments. The spring changes wont change how much fuel the carb sees just when you transition. So a lighter or heavier spring change will affect the point at which the carb transitions from lean to rich or vice versa based on vacuum. Think more pressing on gas = less vacuum = transition to rods popping up to allow more fuel through the jet. A stronger spring will require more vacuum to keep it held down… anyways i digress.
So on an automatic car the rpm WILL drop from P to Drive. You should read edelbrocks instructions carefully. Most of my cars are sticks so its “easier” but sometimes they call for adjustments to be made with the engine warmed up, in drive, with someone holding foot on brake. You really want to have it tuned correctly for Drive vs sitting in park which might mean adjusting your idle up to say 600rpm in drive even though that might cause a higher idle in P. Similarly you may need to adjust idle mixture in drive with a helper holding foot on brake or wtv.
@@truckandroll989 I really appreciate the advice brother. Im going to go ahead and try that. And yes, its an automatic with a turbo 350 trans. Last time i tuned it with a vacuum gauge, my best idle/hightest vacuum was 13 hg. I installed the pink edelbrock springs which was half of that, which is what the tuning manual says and i thought it was fine at first but its definitely off now. Once again, thanks bro.
hi i install a t5 87 on a 351c my t5 loos like it crooked is it supposed to look like this is slight angle toward the driver side.?
As long as all of the bolts and pins line up (engine to bellhousing) I wouldn’t worry about it. It was straight up and down for me but that was a Ford. I think you are fine
@@truckandroll989 great thank.
Did you do a bellhouseing run out measurement before your installation ?
No i did not. Sorry do you mean to check concentricity of the bellhousing to the crankshaft where the input shaft goes into the pilot bearing? Ive heard of doing that before and you can use offset dowels to correct errors - i did not do that step and so far in my life have gotten lucky. I think for this install one mistake I made was regarding the spacer beneath the nipple that engages the clutch fork. I followed the instructions exactly and made a custom shim to get it to be 3.2”. However it needed to be much larger to better place my clutch fork back deeper towards the transmission
@@truckandroll989 I'm doing the modern driveline install in my 63 Fairlane also. So that nipple/ stud needs to be lifted out from the bell more than 3 inches to work better ? What bellhouseing did you use ?