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@@jacobpitts3645 if its an edelbrock or another style carb that used step up springs your issue could be load related and you could change the spring vs a smaller jet. But yes if you are at light load cruising you engine can tolerate a leaner AFR and you should pick up some mpg and avoid fouling plugs.

@@Kidchevy88 id say the biggest improvement/thing you should do (if you dont have the new holley sniper) is the modification I mention to improve throttle feel. Beyond that keep an eye on sensors. I had a new coolant temp sensor fail which makes vehicle run super rich/basically undrivable. Also, if you want the most out of your sniper, even though they are self learning, plan a dyno session with a reputable tuner and he/she can dial it in faster/better.

@@truckandroll989 thank u really appreciate it

@@Kidchevy88 i appreciate you watching/supporting my channel :)

@@truckandroll989 no problem I just started my channel I’ll be posting more about my experience with the set up it’s in a 1986 Monte Carlo ss

@@EAJ97 its a really good idea. Ive had friends recently, multiple actually, have their cars stolen. An apple air tag is another great idea for tracking. Thanks for watching!

@@truckandroll989I have an AirTag in there actually! Just want that extra security to make me feel fine with leaving it around town

@@ari1234. sorry the power steering pump brackets came with the truck. Fans were controlled via my Holley Super Sniper ECU

That is lucky. With lowering springs that often happens. Avoiding using compressors is always a plus!

@@busarob3679 so depending on which video you watched I had to pull the k member on my 97 Cobra. While it was off I degreased and power washed it. That made a huge difference! Thank you for watching!

Queue up the clip from Billy Madison from the lunch lady 😜

@@rickwingo6970 $56k Here is the add but obviously the entire build history is on my channel facebook.com/marketplace/item/831854978812546/?mibextid=6ojiHh

@@DentedDiesel didnt clear. Had to notch them 😩

@@spades262 it has been a while but i would imagine if you can slide the new arm into place of the stock one and it doesnt move the throttle blades there should be no change and you adjust it as you would stock. I think idle rpm is set with the screw. Also there were settings in the software for linear vs progressive throttle if i remember correctly.

Im glad I was able to help ;)

@@stevepope5484 the shroud is integral to the fans themselves. The aluminum frame was sized to seal around radiator. Works great ;)

@@stevepope5484 was I naked?

A track day would be fun. The only issue is I have a nasty trans leak I need to sort out and it’s now >100F in Utah. I will one day though! Regarding the 6 spd I liked it a lot but wasn’t in love with the rebuild I received. It would pop out of first gear which was terrifying. I’d highly recommend a stick with an overdrive. Honestly maybe a TKX considering your hp, it’s size, weight, and cost

Lol its honestly not the worst but the swaybar bit cracks me up. Honestly easiest vehicles to change the oil on have been my Corvettes when I had them. Drain plug doesnt hit anything, filter is directly on the bottom. Ugh why cant more OEMs make it simple or at least mess free!

@@truckandroll989 You are the first I've seen take the sway bar down. I installed a Fumoto F106N drain valve in place of the drain plug years ago and it made that part way easier. Sway bar was close to making contact with the nipple so I trimmed it down about a 1/4". Still plenty left to a little hose on though. Not needed but keeps the wind from blowing the little stream all over. Also tried the oil udder XL yesterday and punctured the filter and wow, cleanest oil change I've done on the RAM ever. Still not Corvette easy but tolerable.

Hi, am I play? Im not sure. It was either that or the OP with no common sense. Either way thanks for watching. Sorry my grommet finesse didn’t live up to your expectations. I was going to check your channel for instructional videos, but alas there aren’t any ;) keep up the good work.

Missing out ol bud chevs 10 times the truck a ford will ever be

I believe Scorpion. Ill be honest I dont think rockers make too much of a difference. Id go on summit and see what has the best reviews and go that route. What id be more concerned with is getting a quality lifter.

@@truckandroll989 the kit I’m looking at comes with cam and lifters and heads and intake just not rockers

@@jakegrassi6785 gotcha. Honestly Comp, Lunati, Scorpion, etc. are all good choices. Id go off of reviews. I watched an engine masters episode a while back and it seemed like most rocker arms tested about the same unless you are doing crazy high rpm stuff

@@truckandroll989 gotcha yea no it’s gonna be a 1800-6200 street motor so thank you man!

Message me on instagram truckandroll989

I agree. What makes me think its an 86 something is the lack of valve reliefs in my pistons. I think you are right it was likely some 1986, non HO, car motor.

No worries just passing on info,my previous engine was out of a 91 crown Vic, efi non h.o, it had the dished pistons no reliefs.w/88 t-bird harness. I checked engine compatibility and it was the same engine for all the efi roller non h.o 5.0 cars. .🤷‍♂️👍🏼

Good looking out on the torque spec. For some reason I felt like that seemed low but it surely wont mangle the lock washers like mine did at 40ish ft lbs. Ive got new plates, bolts, and hardware coming that I will make sure to torque properly. Those bushings can be an absolute bear. The second set came out easier but Im also lucky that my car seems to have avoided too much water/moisture over its life

Whats nice is your 1990 has valve reliefs so you could run a bit more aggressive cam. Im curious how much torque I am giving up with the single plane but overall Im happy its a fun car.

Sorry I dont but if you google what you are looking for they should have quite a few depending upon year, make, and model

That is awesome! Im really glad the video helped your drivability!

@@truckandroll989 I'm still working on it. I had a lot of problems with exhaust leaks and then the ECU went. Holley changed the main body and ECU. I now have about 75 miles on it and all is good. It's an off-road truck so it hard to get street mii

Sorry it wasnt for you. Plenty more videos in the series. It can be hard to explain and film at the same time

If yours had the side to side play that mine did I dont think that “fix” would be enjoyable for long. Its not just a shorter stick. The geometry of the portion that goes into the transmission is different too. Its a more direct feel, less slop side to side, and obviously shorter throws forward and back.

Call up Hellion on the phone if it isnt listed online. The Mach 1 kit is different and special. It needs a handful of changed to fit the larger front coolers, intake, etc. its more similar to a GT350 kit but they should have a Mach 1 specific option

Heres what i grabbed from my sales order from a few years ago (your welcome ;)) MDL Lighten Billet Steel Flywheel, Ford, 81-95 50oz, 5.0L only, 10.4" Metric clutch pattern, with alignment pins. MDL Clutch Set, Super King Cobra Kit, Ford 10.4" Metric pattern heavy duty pressure plate Organic Steel backed 10.4" 10 spline 1-1/16" disk

Well that is good. It’s always better when they come out easy. I wound up making another video when working on my 1964 Comet specific to just spring compressors. After having to buy a few types for different jobs i figured it was time to explain

ruclips.net/video/F5D12gJ0sFw/видео.htmlsi=4xttX9kyrUZCF0ib

There are differences for The Mach to mate to the GT350 intake, fit around various coolers, etc. You have to specify its a Mach for correct fitment

The short answer is it shouldn’t be a problem, especially when closed. When opened Id try and place them so you at least have a foot to 18” of space between the sensors and cutout opening but even that is likely conservative.

I appreciate you watching and commenting. Bench bleeding can be beneficial to make the bleeding at the calipers go quicker. Ive done it both with and without and feel it doesnt add much time up front but can help on the back end.

Aside from maybe aesthetics (i.e., brass fitting on an aluminum intake) it works great. So long as it’s the correct NPT thread it really doesnt matter whether you use brass, aluminum, steel, etc. On this setup both are coolant temperature but one is for my gauge inside the car on the dash and the second for the electric fan. You could use a similar approach with oil if you only had one tap but needed to know pressure and temperature.

@@truckandroll989 hey man,you are on to something, on my Chevy my intake only has one port for my temp, the radiator probe was inconsistent, I’m in the head right now but too hot, fan stays on. I was going to cut my upper radiator hose and use one of those adapters but don’t really like the look. Spent hours and hours searching for a solution then Walla! I seen your video and thought that might work! Your fan is coming on and off like it should?

@@daves485 yes fan comes on and off like it should. Another plus is I know my fan set temp and my gauge temp are consistent since I can watch my dash gauge and listen for the fan.

It was a hydraulic roller so no break in needed :)

I had one minor hiccup where one stopped working briefly. I contacted Digipower and they told me to try and clean the connector and if that didnt work they would replace actuator for free. Cleaned as instructed and they are back to working. These are definitely in a harsh environment right after the turbos but seem to be holding up well

Thanks! Definitely teaches you some good car control. My wife came in having never drifted before but was killing it by the end of the day.