Rebuilt Carburetor Tune Check

Rebuilt carburetor tune check with AEM Wideband AFR gauge. I was curious after rebuilding my Holley 2BBL carburetor to the factory specifications whether it was actually tuned to run optimally. To confirm whether the stock specs are ideal I decided I would install an AEM Electronics 30-0300 X-Series Wideband UEGO AFR sensor controller gauge with x-digital technology and take it on a road test to monitor idle, cruise, WOT, and transitionary throttle settings.
In this video I show you a step by step install, wiring, welding, and finally a driving test to determine whether my old truck is leaving performance and/or fuel economy on the table.
Wideband AFR gauges are a great way to get the most out of your old car or truck especially with a carburetor!
00:00 Introduction
00:51 AEM 03-0300 Unboxing & Parts Description
02:17 Other Parts You Need - Inline Fuse Protection
02:40 Bonus - Make it All Plug and Play
03:45 How to Wire/Install Your Wideband (BASIC)
15:58 Road Testing and Datalogging
17:22 Cruise Carb Settings
18:36 WOT Carb Settings
19:24 Power/Transition Carb Settings
20:09 Idle Mixture Settings
20:49 Final Thoughts and Areas to Improve

[@jacobpitts3645]

Mine runs pig rich 😂
It’s usually around low 12s when cruising.
I’d imagine down sizing the jets would solve that.

[@truckandroll989]

@@jacobpitts3645 if its an edelbrock or another style carb that used step up springs your issue could be load related and you could change the spring vs a smaller jet. But yes if you are at light load cruising you engine can tolerate a leaner AFR and you should pick up some mpg and avoid fouling plugs.

[@jacobpitts3645]

@@truckandroll989 the crazy thing is the plugs aren’t fouled. The carb is a Holley 750 vac secondaries. However, the carb was manufactured in 1985. Soooooo haha

[@airell47]

if your vehicle has true duals and no cross over pipe do you need tow seperate 02 Sensors (one for each side) or i one good? if you do need two is that a different style gauge ?

[@truckandroll989]

@@airell47 Modern cars use multiple (sometimes up to 4) oxygen sensors (either one or two per side before and sometimes after the catalytic converters). On an engine dyno ive seen oxygen sensors installed in each primary tube to understand variances cylinder to cylinder. However in this application one is likely sufficient but it does mean there could be a variation between each side of the motor. Since a carburetor really doesnt allow much tuning for side to side variation I recommend picking the easiest install location (on one side) and using that. You could always weld in a second bung on the other side, plug the original bung, and check for differences. If you had a y pipe that was pretty close to the manifold collectors that could be another good location but then you are only seeing an average.
So the short/long answer is more would be ideal but thats added cost and likely not worth it unless you are racing or getting really serious about tuning.

[@airell47]

@@truckandroll989 perfect that helps allot. i normally drive and tune EFI vehicles started working on a old 81 f150 with a 71 "5L" i got it running and driving great but i would like to start trying to squeeze a bit more out of the motor. im going to try one of these setups and see what happens. my thought is its the easiest way to track a base line ( what its at now) and see changes made.

[@truckandroll989]

@@airell47 good call. If you check my other videos I actually have a few discussing tuning on a 5L Ford. Ive got playlists for my videos and those tuning videos are for my 64 Comet. Could maybe be helpful :)

[@airell47]

@@truckandroll989 thanks, will do, much appreciated.