Here are the Parts Links to do this if you missed them!!! AEM Wideband Gauge Kit - amzn.to/2wlxxL4 No Welding Exhaust Bung - amzn.to/2BCi4MO Step Bit for Sensor Hole - amzn.to/2N7rxgl 90 Degree Drill Attachment - amzn.to/2Qh7BJq Sensor Port Plug - amzn.to/2wgxxfF Vacuum Gauge - amzn.to/2o7sgn3 Gauge Pod For Vacuum Gauge & AFR Gauge - amzn.to/2N9IEOE
Hey that step down bit is no longer available. It's been almost a year hows the AFR kit holding up? Bought my first carburetor engine definitely would be super helpful knowing the AFR.
Hello there Luke, please don't let the sad, unhappy people out there, dampen your spirits.. We love your enthusiasm for the hobby, your patience and willingness to teach and help others who want to learn today. Many of those haters, had the benefit of fathers, uncles and older, wiser car minded friends to help them on their path. Helping people understand and learn new-old things is awesome 👍😎... Keep em coming...!!! PS, I'm Edelbrock carbing 302 Fords in both my rides..
You want the o2 sensor to be at 10 or 2 to avoid condensation contamination - using flex pipe not recommended as it is more likely to leak. Any leaks before the sensor will cause errors.
I recently picked up a factory manifold from a non-HO 5.0, and it’s got the o2 sensor in it. Using this video to get this gauge setup in my wagon The drivetrain setup is a 1982 f150 302 and srod transmission. Got them and the driveshaft for $100.
Cool tool! We didn't have those back in the day. We had to learn to feel it in the seat of our pants, read it from a stop watch, listen for detonation, and learn to read spark plugs. Some things really are better with modern electronics.
Omg!!! Thanks for this video!!! I just installed a wideband and thought i had my carburetor dialed in but it was running super rich. Now with the wideband it made it so much easier to tune the carburetor.
I'm sure somebody's answered this for you already but still use your vac gauge for setting idle and getting the correct power valve size. Afr for pretty much everything else
Boy, a 351 fuel injected roller from 94-96....that what I wanted to do to my 84 Bronco. I ended up with a 86 FI stock system, but was happy I converted! That also gives the possible benefit of remote start :)
If you can get your hands on a 351 m400. Ford made a 351 Cleveland stroker with extremely low torque cam. Coupled with the factory NP four-speed transmissions makes great rock crawlers. But terrible on the highways. Nice thing about the m351 400. It can use F-350 parts like the zf5 German 5 speed. Without additional parts. Also weigh 390 or 460 will drop right into the same motor mounts. The only engine supposedly available for the 77 F150 4x4s. It's definitely a farm truck.
never to old to learn ,(very old school guy ) learning from new school . Not too new still got a carb. last time ever on this stuff not as handy as I once was This one a street hot rod OK 1934 ford pick up ,the engine like yours 302 roller ,Ederlbock top end ,air gap singe plane rpm , rpm heads cam is Comp 35-600-8 Thumper ,I got a Holley 750 .vac .secondary .thinking of adding the meter to help tune .thank you I will watch all you other videos
I have found lots of videos on-line about how to install the AFR gauge but cannot find ANY that covers how to actually adjust the Holly carb using the readings from the AFR gauge. Do you have one or could you provide some guidance? For example, at idle do you simply adjust mixture screws to get the AFR reading you want? Since the O2 sensor is only on the left exhaust do you set the right carb mixture screws the same as the left screws and trust the AFR values will be the same? For WOT AFR adjustments is it just carb jet changes and is that done by trial & error or is there an effective method/process. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video. Im new to this shit and am turboing a car with just a FMU no ECU tuning and every video I found overcomplicated things with the ecu harness. I was under the impression that it needed some input from factory ecu which clearly isnt the case after watching this lol.
I have that same AEM wideband gauge installed on a carb'd LS setup and it has helped me quite a bit. I find myself looking at it way too much though! What is your target AFR for idle/WOT/cruise?
please make a video on the item attached to your column - vacuum gauge I beleive this would help a lot of folks including me !! forgot some of this stuff, built my ChevY - truck - 5 window, still have the truck rebuilding it again , LOVE , YOUR START OF THE VIDEO, 0 TO 72 MILES A HOUR SEE IT OVER AND OVER AND OVER , and old ford truck all carbs - carter - HAVE NOT BEEN IN A POWER HOUSE VEHICLE SINCE 1994 TRIP TO NEW YORK
Just updating...great video. One or two of the Amazon links where product is no longer available. But similar producta are shown for just a few dollars more. If you do need to purchase all tools/gauges etc... Your looking at approx $310. Still not a bad investment in my opinion if it allows me to see exactly whats going on.
Have u ever Hurd of puting in a set of 305 or 350 gm head valves 202 maybe 🤔...and putting them in 302 heads like on gt40p explorer heads... And taking the valves out of the Chevy heads and installing them with work into the 302 heads... good gain. I guess..
Time to pick some corn! Hope it stays dry long enough. I'm not sure I understand the case for doing this to "dial in" superseded technology? I fully understand keeping original vehicles "original," but that does not seem to be what this is about, though what you're up to here is certainly interesting. I'll wander through the earlier carb vlogs and see if I understand any better.
I hear you - it’s a little awkward mounted to the dash like it is, but for the next line of carb videos it will be very helpful. In most cars, I hide them in the glove box. The afr gauge is extremely handy for tuning because you can see what the carb is doing based on your changes. There are “ideal” afr numerics to hit under certain throttle conditions and the gauge gives a direct visual representation as to your actual air fuel ratio 👍
@@ThunderHead289 If the stoichiometric ratio is a constant -- unavailable under most real-world conditions due to load, heat, fuel additives, etc. -- then you're using this apparatus to set a carb to attain other ideal air-fuel ratios under load? Maybe I'm confused and should just stop talking.
I plan to make videos in the future explaining this. We first have to understand air fuel ratio, how fuel reacts under pressure, and how timing plays into this also. There are a lot of factors. In an ideal world though - cruising should be around 14 for a carb (14.7 is too lean due to different length runners in the intake) and wide open throttle should be 12.5 to 13.5 I have some tuning explanation work to do in the coming months
@@jacklyons2557 Never stop asking questions my man! Been working on old beaters since I was knee high (23 now) , and I'm still stoked for the new videos because carb tuning has always made me a bit nervous due all the variables. But that's why we're all here isn't it? Besides, when Thunderhead's engine is Thunderdead, we'll know what not to do :D
I've been wanting to do this for so long I need three of them setups one for my 68 Fairlane one for my 94 carbureted Chevy truck and one for my 96 rat Ram with the 440 I wish I could get a break on them I suppose I could afford one and tune one vehicle at a time
they are extremely helpful. i thought i had mine perfect, and id consider myself pretty handy with carbs. ended up completely changing around my accelerator pump and upsizing my jets 2 sizes. crazy how that worked out. definitely a great tuning tool. that and a vacuum gauge are invaluable.
@@Moparmaga-1 14th one from the top it's got a body lift with a Peterbilt front bumper for pushing I want to cut some drive shafts to make stacks out of it's still a project
@@ThunderHead289 lol , I was wondering, I just ran across this video , and wondered after watching the numbers, if you worked on the lean stuff !? , cool , good video , now. If I could get an EASY editing app on this phone , I might try videos lol
i need to put some content together with it. its been revived and died again since the last video. a lot has happened with it since the last rotstang posting !!!
Love your videos man, great info. I got a 78 f150 custom with a stock 302. I'm looking to gain some more power without getting real heavy with modifications. What cylinder heads could I bolt straight up to increase power without changing lifters and pushrods?
hey, i appreciate the feedback! I believe in 78, the rockers were pedestal style - correct me if im wrong. those were the low low compression days with huge chambers. you should be able to find e7 heads for extremely cheap, and it will make a huge difference over your stock heads. compared to what you have they breath well and have a tighter chamber for more compression. all passenger 302 cars from 87 on should have them - be leery of the trucks, they ran e6 heads for a long time that have terrible valve shrouding. if you can find some gt40 heads, they have a bit more to offer, but they tend to be expensive, need reworked, and are pretty hard to come by.
I have an AEM gauge but no sensor and very little wire left on the back looks like 3 wires off the back of it? Not sure if I can just get a sensor for it let alone the right one…
Hey thunderhead289 great videos. I have an Edelbrock 1406, do you have a video that shows how to tune the carburator using an afr gauge? Like going through the entire process setting the idle, setting the idle mixture screws.... Thanks
I have a question, I want to in stall an air fuel ratio monitor in my boat. It’s a small block 355 hp with a 750 cam carb the cooling water exits the boat through the exhaust. Will the water mess with the o2 sensor. What’s your thoughts?
Would you do a video on tuning a carb with a bigger venturi than stock? Since when getting carbs off junk yard trucks and on ebay (Used one and sometimes new ones) it gets hard to find the stamp for the venturi size. Im mainly talking about the motorcraft 2150. Im sure using carb CFM rating would work as well.
Wanting to question a comment about compatibility with high zinc oil. Matt from the tech line at AEM says zinc not a problem. Too much oil (more than 1 qt/1000 miles) in the exhaust, or antifreeze/coolant in the exhaust, or leaded fuel will cause problems.
Theoretically it would be nice to only use it when tuning, then replace with a plug. Zinc can be an issue - mostly when you run a Pcv valve since it vents oil fumes right back to the combustion chamber.
Good video I just installed one on my 86 d150 but it doesnt read anything for some reason it just says P00, cycles up and down, then displays 14.7, and then goes up from there until it just displays dashes across the screen, do I need to calibrate it or something?
@Thunderhead289 Luke, have you heard of the AEM AFR kit containing the wrong sensor? Mine worked until the truck warmed up then I noticed the gauge was pegged all the way to the lean side and the display was all dashes. Has anyone run into this?
I have all the parts links in the video description. I highly recommend the wideband, it’s the most enlightening thing you will ever add to a vehicle. Removes all the guess work
I just installed this af guage on my 93 f250 460. just rebuilt engine .30 over, comp cams computer grind cam, banks headers and full exhaust package and raised compression from 8.3 to 9.1. still running stock computer and injectors. I installed the sensor for the guage in the Y pipe after the headers and in open loop when cold af ratio is fine but after warm up and closed loop it runs so lean it wont read anymore. Do you think its possible the sensor is too far away from engine or does that matter? Maybe its just that lean and i need to upgrade injectors and regulator? Any help is appreciated and love your videos keep em coming
Thank you for replying it does crank slow when you press on the pedal it seems it cranks faster it's got a new battery new starter new coil new ignition module
1970chevy07 gotcha. After an engine runs, the starter will tend to be a bit heat soaked - sometimes it will crank slower in this case. Also, when an engines warm, rings will seal better and with the throttle closed, an engine is more susceptible to pumping losses. The other potential item is heat soak - if I have a fully functioning heat crossover on my intake manifold and don’t run a carb spacer it will heat soak bad forcing me to hold the throttle either half open or all the way open when cranking to light off.
1970chevy07. I know this is late, and you may have talked about it but, if it still cranks slow, change your battery cables. My 72 Lemans would crank slow. One day I was cranking it over with the hood up and noticed my positive cable start to smoke from all the cranking. I found that it was corroded on the inside and couldn't pass all the amperage the starter needed. I changed both cables and everything got better. Just another thought for ya.
If I remember correctly, it’s one either a main power and an ignition switch lead followed by a ground or simply an ignition source and ground. 3 or 2 wires
460 ford with holley 600 cfm. Mine is running lean at part throttle cruising when not under much load usally around 15.7 any idea how to fix that? Thanks.
Several things could be causing it. Depends what part throttle means though - are we talking 5 percent throttle or are we talking up to 50 percent throttle.
What kind of mileage do you get with your 302? I just rebuilt mine for my old galaxie and I'm getting somewhere in the neighborhood of 8-10mpg and its for sure not a performance build. It's hard to drive it daily like I used to with mileage this bad
@@ThunderHead289 I've got a c4, so nothing in the way of overdrive for me lol. What do you think could be the cause of my mileage being so bad? I assume it has to be carb related, the cam I put in isnt wild enough to warrant such terrible mileage
@@ThunderHead289 Yep, I do have vacuum advance. I never adjusted it though since the engine ran just fine and had decent mileage before I rebuilt it. I think I'm running something like 12 degrees initial, not sure on total with the vacuum and centrifugal though
Dogetor that’s what I would look into. That and your air fuel ratio - I highly recommend the afr gauge I have linked 👍 I recurve all my distributors to bring my timing in quicker. Stock was very lazy, but super safe.
is it posibel that thing cause engine run ON ore fumel with ignition timing like amplifier? because I get strange acurance hapening like smokeing spark plug ports
Luke I have a question I have a 59 ford edsel with a 2100 aftermarket carburetor and the choke does not have a power plugged in can I just run a direct power from the fuse panel????
It technically doesn’t matter. If you are really concerned, you can plumb two ports and just move the sensor from side to side. Theoretically it should be the same, but fuel plane intakes will offer a bit of a difference - the plenum that sits lower will technically need one jet size higher roughly. It’s pretty inconsequential to just set everything equal 👍
I wish l could get you to fine tune my 69 f-100 swb 300 cyl. W/C6 auto. I've owned it for 38 yrs. It's a beauty, unfortunately l just can't get it to idle for more than 15 min., starts studdering. Then it dies. It blows black smoke out tailpipe. I really like my truck.
we recently had a similar problem with my daughter's 65 mustang with a 289 she and my dad rebuilt. we had been taking it out for short test drives (eg: less than 20 minutes, around town) and the engine would run fine. but once we started driving for longer time periods (eg: more than 20 minutes) it would stutter and stall out at stop lights. we couldn't figure out what was wrong. well, after a week of testing and trial and error we think we've fixed it. the problem was that our timing was off. by advancing the timing (quite a bit...maybe 45 degrees from where it was at) we've got the engine running great even after 45 minutes of driving. no stuttering or stalling problems at stop lights anymore. (also, her car temp had been at 200 degrees before the fix. now it sits at 180 even after driving around for 45 mins...so that is a nice improvement as well.) we're sort of new to all this, so we're not quite sure why the timing was fine for 15-20 minutes, and then bad after that. does heat somehow affect timing? long story short: we thought we got the timing right, but it was only right for up to 15-20 minutes of the engine running.
@@thomasdeaton8768 l don't think engine heat affects the timing, cause the distributor is an electrical item. But since l'm not a mechanic l could be wrong. I finally found the problems (2) causing my 69 f-100 to run so rough and after heating up it just die out. My coil wasn't putting out enough fire, less than the 40 thousand volts needed. I replaced it and thru U-tube found out that l also needed a coil external resistor. After l finished putting these two items on , the truck started right up and to this day is purrs like kitten. It's so smooth running my grandson said " your truck runs so smooth like it's fuel injected" so yes . l'm glad to hear your car now runs ok. Sometimes it takes quite a bit of time to get an older vehicle to run good. Where l live no mechanic wants to work on my truck, saying we don't have any info. books on it. Soooo... I work on it until l find the problem, but l'm retired l really like to work on ol' Blu. Thats my truck. God bless. I got a video on my truck on U-Yube. Its titled " Ol blu is Finally back on the road again"
@@olblu8746 oh cool. i'm glad to hear you got your truck running right. it sure is a nice satisfying feeling when we finally figure out the problem(s). also, i watched your video. that's a cool, good-looking truck...and you're right: she does purr like a kitten. great job! 👍
How much would it take to get you to come to eastern Pa and get my f100 dialed in? I’ll fly you out and pay you if you’re interested. I can’t find anyone competent in my area.
Will this help any on propain? Im looking at doing this to tune up my quadrajet because its a real pig to get dialed in. But theres also a propain swap that is gonna be happening in a year or so when i find the time
Ah, a great question - and I consider myself to be fairly carb knowledgeable: I went up 2 jet sizes and changed from a 35 accelerator pump nozzle to a 31 with an orange cam. Also changed my power valve to a 10.5 So not huge changes in total, but I’d say it was worth some low end grunt for sure!
ThunderHead289 was that enough change to "feel" the difference? I am still learning to understand the AFR, I know what you want It to be but it fluctuates through load and rpm changes lol
Question I have a 302 when you crank it over is a little heavy and as soon as you press the throttle it's easier any suggestions on it car does run and drive but kinda bothering me
why is it that when im at idle my engine sounds great but it idles at like 10.2 to 1 afr. if i adjust it any leaner it starts missing right away. also when i step on the gas it leans way out like just for a second when the accel pump is working, does that mean i need a bigger squirter? 600 quickfuel carb
Without seeing it in person, It sounds like your timing is way late - what is your idle advance? Also, because of this you would then have your throttle open to far to accommodate rendering your transfer slots useless and causing off idle acceleration issues. I don’t think you need a bigger squirter, I think it’s a timing & carb balance issue. Join The Thunderhead289 Facebook group and we can discuss further there 👍
ThunderHead289 thanks, yeah im getting a 383 stroker built right now and going to be using the same carb. Just wondering so i dont hurt the new engine. I know the timing is something on my current engine. we tuned it by ear but the timing mark is off so we are trying to get it as good as we can right now
It will indeed - your engine pulls from both sides of the carb per bank. As long as the carb is set up even from side to side as it should be, your good to go!
I’m new to carb tuning an I installed a fuel pressure gauge on my edelbrock carb and the stock fuel pump is doing 6-7psi at idle and 10-13 at 1500 is this to much for a edelbrock carb
Wowza, that’s some pressure That would be too much for it to handle for sure. Grab you a cheap regulator from summit racing and regulate her down to 5.5 👍
ThunderHead289 thank you sir I will start with that luckily I grabbed a summit regulator the same day I got the gauge just don’t know a lot about carbs other that setting idle and mixture screws been watching your carb videos
Of course. Makes tuning maybe a 2 hour job and mitigates any guess work as long as you know what circuit of the carb your on when afr is out of range. Tuning carbs is far far more than hillybilly how turning mix screws
Very misusing title, this shows nothing on how to tune a carburetor. This is just a very long winded explanation of how to drill a hole and run a wire.
Here are the Parts Links to do this if you missed them!!!
AEM Wideband Gauge Kit - amzn.to/2wlxxL4
No Welding Exhaust Bung - amzn.to/2BCi4MO
Step Bit for Sensor Hole - amzn.to/2N7rxgl
90 Degree Drill Attachment - amzn.to/2Qh7BJq
Sensor Port Plug - amzn.to/2wgxxfF
Vacuum Gauge - amzn.to/2o7sgn3
Gauge Pod For Vacuum Gauge & AFR Gauge - amzn.to/2N9IEOE
Hey that step down bit is no longer available. It's been almost a year hows the AFR kit holding up? Bought my first carburetor engine definitely would be super helpful knowing the AFR.
Hello there Luke, please don't let the sad, unhappy people out there, dampen your spirits.. We love your enthusiasm for the hobby, your patience and willingness to teach and help others who want to learn today. Many of those haters, had the benefit of fathers, uncles and older, wiser car minded friends to help them on their path. Helping people understand and learn new-old things is awesome 👍😎... Keep em coming...!!! PS, I'm Edelbrock carbing 302 Fords in both my rides..
You want the o2 sensor to be at 10 or 2 to avoid condensation contamination - using flex pipe not recommended as it is more likely to leak. Any leaks before the sensor will cause errors.
Aren't all errors erroneous?
I recently picked up a factory manifold from a non-HO 5.0, and it’s got the o2 sensor in it. Using this video to get this gauge setup in my wagon
The drivetrain setup is a 1982 f150 302 and srod transmission. Got them and the driveshaft for $100.
Cool tool! We didn't have those back in the day. We had to learn to feel it in the seat of our pants, read it from a stop watch, listen for detonation, and learn to read spark plugs. Some things really are better with modern electronics.
Back in what day..?
Omg!!! Thanks for this video!!! I just installed a wideband and thought i had my carburetor dialed in but it was running super rich. Now with the wideband it made it so much easier to tune the carburetor.
You are very welcome 👍
@@ThunderHead289 do i still need the vacuum gauge to tune the carburetor or can i just get away with the wideband?
I'm sure somebody's answered this for you already but still use your vac gauge for setting idle and getting the correct power valve size. Afr for pretty much everything else
New sub in from JYD, he plugs all his buddies in every vid, youre next on the binge watch.
The belt trick! I was today years old when I learned that. Thanks, TH.
what belt trick? I went back through video over and over and don't seem to see that
dont bother with any other gauges that are cheaper than the AEM, its pointless the AEM is the best bang for buck
Couldn’t agree more
yeah u right Dingaling😁🍻✌👏👏
I run a aem uego and jjcoco uego the jjcoco is the the better gauge it's just a knock off aem x series really
Boy, a 351 fuel injected roller from 94-96....that what I wanted to do to my 84 Bronco. I ended up with a 86 FI stock system, but was happy I converted! That also gives the possible benefit of remote start :)
If you can get your hands on a 351 m400. Ford made a 351 Cleveland stroker with extremely low torque cam. Coupled with the factory NP four-speed transmissions makes great rock crawlers. But terrible on the highways. Nice thing about the m351 400. It can use F-350 parts like the zf5 German 5 speed. Without additional parts. Also weigh 390 or 460 will drop right into the same motor mounts. The only engine supposedly available for the 77 F150 4x4s. It's definitely a farm truck.
never to old to learn ,(very old school guy ) learning from new school . Not too new still got a carb. last time ever on this stuff not as handy as I once was This one a street hot rod OK 1934 ford pick up ,the engine like yours 302 roller ,Ederlbock top end ,air gap singe plane rpm , rpm heads cam is Comp 35-600-8 Thumper ,I got a Holley 750 .vac .secondary .thinking of adding the meter to help tune .thank you I will watch all you other videos
The little tips at the end of your video was awesome. Never knew of the belt trick! We need more of those.
I am all about this setup, awesome. Are there any videos that show you how to tune your carb with this setup?
I built a 57 buick 10 years ago. Your wiring looks pebble beach ready compared to mine.
I have found lots of videos on-line about how to install the AFR gauge but cannot find ANY that covers how to actually adjust the Holly carb using the readings from the AFR gauge. Do you have one or could you provide some guidance? For example, at idle do you simply adjust mixture screws to get the AFR reading you want? Since the O2 sensor is only on the left exhaust do you set the right carb mixture screws the same as the left screws and trust the AFR values will be the same? For WOT AFR adjustments is it just carb jet changes and is that done by trial & error or is there an effective method/process. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I second this!
I used to use one of those lid loosen jar thingies with a rag. Couldn't afford a filter wrench back then.
Thank you so much for this video. Im new to this shit and am turboing a car with just a FMU no ECU tuning and every video I found overcomplicated things with the ecu harness. I was under the impression that it needed some input from factory ecu which clearly isnt the case after watching this lol.
I have that same AEM wideband gauge installed on a carb'd LS setup and it has helped me quite a bit. I find myself looking at it way too much though! What is your target AFR for idle/WOT/cruise?
Been waiting for a vid on this! 👍👍
please make a video on the item attached to your column - vacuum gauge I beleive this would help a lot of folks including me !! forgot some of this stuff, built my ChevY - truck - 5 window, still have the truck rebuilding it again , LOVE , YOUR START OF THE VIDEO, 0 TO 72 MILES A HOUR SEE IT OVER AND OVER AND OVER , and old ford truck all carbs - carter - HAVE NOT BEEN IN A POWER HOUSE VEHICLE SINCE 1994 TRIP TO NEW YORK
Yes. That's a good tool. And so are ET averages.
that's nice. better than the haynes manual on these fords it says after carb adjustments pull the spark plugs out look for carbon
its really just extremely hard to tell anymore from the way fuel is today.
That's what you when using a Haynes manual
If you ever make the change, I'll buy the trans and bell housing!
Just updating...great video. One or two of the Amazon links where product is no longer available. But similar producta are shown for just a few dollars more. If you do need to purchase all tools/gauges etc... Your looking at approx $310. Still not a bad investment in my opinion if it allows me to see exactly whats going on.
I use a oem o2 sensor and a multimeter. I seen some other cheap widebands that displayed lamda and you have to assemble the circuit
Not a bad idea but whats the update rate on the DMM?
Nice belt trick. This guy has a black belt and carb tuning.
Have u ever Hurd of puting in a set of 305 or 350 gm head valves 202 maybe 🤔...and putting them in 302 heads like on gt40p explorer heads... And taking the valves out of the Chevy heads and installing them with work into the 302 heads... good gain. I guess..
That sounds amazing, can’t wait to get mine and put in my nova🤘👍👍
Time to pick some corn! Hope it stays dry long enough. I'm not sure I understand the case for doing this to "dial in" superseded technology? I fully understand keeping original vehicles "original," but that does not seem to be what this is about, though what you're up to here is certainly interesting. I'll wander through the earlier carb vlogs and see if I understand any better.
I hear you - it’s a little awkward mounted to the dash like it is, but for the next line of carb videos it will be very helpful. In most cars, I hide them in the glove box.
The afr gauge is extremely handy for tuning because you can see what the carb is doing based on your changes. There are “ideal” afr numerics to hit under certain throttle conditions and the gauge gives a direct visual representation as to your actual air fuel ratio 👍
@@ThunderHead289 If the stoichiometric ratio is a constant -- unavailable under most real-world conditions due to load, heat, fuel additives, etc. -- then you're using this apparatus to set a carb to attain other ideal air-fuel ratios under load? Maybe I'm confused and should just stop talking.
I plan to make videos in the future explaining this. We first have to understand air fuel ratio, how fuel reacts under pressure, and how timing plays into this also. There are a lot of factors. In an ideal world though - cruising should be around 14 for a carb (14.7 is too lean due to different length runners in the intake) and wide open throttle should be 12.5 to 13.5
I have some tuning explanation work to do in the coming months
@@jacklyons2557 Never stop asking questions my man! Been working on old beaters since I was knee high (23 now) , and I'm still stoked for the new videos because carb tuning has always made me a bit nervous due all the variables. But that's why we're all here isn't it? Besides, when Thunderhead's engine is Thunderdead, we'll know what not to do :D
Because efi SUCKS when you have problems. And can never be tuned
sweet Motor I had a 302 windsor like that In a farlane 80"s one with 2v heads It was a Great motor
Thank You Uncle LUKE !!!!! 😊
I've been wanting to do this for so long I need three of them setups one for my 68 Fairlane one for my 94 carbureted Chevy truck and one for my 96 rat Ram with the 440 I wish I could get a break on them I suppose I could afford one and tune one vehicle at a time
they are extremely helpful. i thought i had mine perfect, and id consider myself pretty handy with carbs. ended up completely changing around my accelerator pump and upsizing my jets 2 sizes. crazy how that worked out. definitely a great tuning tool. that and a vacuum gauge are invaluable.
I know I wish I could afford one for all of my vehicles
Do you have any vids of your rat ram ?
@@Moparmaga-1 14th one from the top it's got a body lift with a Peterbilt front bumper for pushing I want to cut some drive shafts to make stacks out of it's still a project
@@ThunderHead289 lol , I was wondering, I just ran across this video , and wondered after watching the numbers, if you worked on the lean stuff !? , cool , good video , now. If I could get an EASY editing app on this phone , I might try videos lol
Do you have any videos explaining how to tune a carburetor with the AFR gauge? If not, would you do one? Thanks
Do you still have the rotstang? That's an awesome car. Can't wait to see more videos of yours. Been wondering when more has been coming.
i need to put some content together with it. its been revived and died again since the last video. a lot has happened with it since the last rotstang posting !!!
Those two switches being held by ashtray. 😁
What a fantastic idea. Of course, why wouldn’t anyone want an AFR gauge in their carbureted car?
Because their uncle bad carb touch taught them to “tune to ear”
I think this is the answer to converting my E85 carb to gasoline. Cool beans.
Love your videos man, great info. I got a 78 f150 custom with a stock 302. I'm looking to gain some more power without getting real heavy with modifications. What cylinder heads could I bolt straight up to increase power without changing lifters and pushrods?
hey, i appreciate the feedback!
I believe in 78, the rockers were pedestal style - correct me if im wrong.
those were the low low compression days with huge chambers.
you should be able to find e7 heads for extremely cheap, and it will make a huge difference over your stock heads. compared to what you have they breath well and have a tighter chamber for more compression. all passenger 302 cars from 87 on should have them - be leery of the trucks, they ran e6 heads for a long time that have terrible valve shrouding.
if you can find some gt40 heads, they have a bit more to offer, but they tend to be expensive, need reworked, and are pretty hard to come by.
Just bolt the E7 heads on the stock motor?
So need to swap anything else out?
Also is there a difference between E7 and E7TE?
What's a good, direct bolt on carb to put on my stock 78 f150 302
Nice video. Thanks for the technical steps.
old cars & CB radio
Thanks Luke, I’m getting this.
this is a really helpful video.. thank you!
WOW yea buddy that thing going sounds really good that is definitely not a new car at all
Great video! I have almost as many gauges on my 72 GMC:)
What adjustments are you supposed to make based on this gauge and what number are you trying to achieve?
Idle - 12.5-14
Cruising - 14-15
Hard throttle 12-13
👍
I have an AEM gauge but no sensor and very little wire left on the back looks like 3 wires off the back of it? Not sure if I can just get a sensor for it let alone the right one…
Love it! Thank you!
Nice video. What rear gear do you have?
Send it!
ill have to look someday - i assume they are stock. seem to be somewhere between 3.73 and 4.11 - when the truck had a 3 speed it topped out at 55!!!
Thanks for the video!
hope its helpful !!!!
Thanks for the link to t-5 swap
Hey thunderhead289 great videos. I have an Edelbrock 1406, do you have a video that shows how to tune the carburator using an afr gauge? Like going through the entire process setting the idle, setting the idle mixture screws.... Thanks
Search Thunderhead289 tune carb - click on the video with the thumbnail that says “uncle luke gone’ learn ya today”
Is that O2 sensor adaptor a ghiant threaded insert?
aka: thread-sert, like a giant pop rivet
I have a question, I want to in stall an air fuel ratio monitor in my boat. It’s a small block 355 hp with a 750 cam carb the cooling water exits the boat through the exhaust. Will the water mess with the o2 sensor. What’s your thoughts?
Great job, thanks for sharing.
Hey man, I appreciate the positive response.
Few and far between these days. Internet has gone hostile
ThunderHead289 I agree 100%.
Very cool!
But if I have side pipe headers I think that there's probably no optional way to Install one of these gages. Am I right?
Hola que jets usas en tu ford maverick? Y power vale?
Would you do a video on tuning a carb with a bigger venturi than stock? Since when getting carbs off junk yard trucks and on ebay (Used one and sometimes new ones) it gets hard to find the stamp for the venturi size.
Im mainly talking about the motorcraft 2150. Im sure using carb CFM rating would work as well.
would this be good for an auto trans?? I have a 64 Falcon with a 303 but now I'm in Utah and the elevation has messed with my carb from So Cal
Wanting to question a comment about compatibility with high zinc oil. Matt from the tech line at AEM says zinc not a problem. Too much oil (more than 1 qt/1000 miles) in the exhaust, or antifreeze/coolant in the exhaust, or leaded fuel will cause problems.
Theoretically it would be nice to only use it when tuning, then replace with a plug. Zinc can be an issue - mostly when you run a Pcv valve since it vents oil fumes right back to the combustion chamber.
Great. What should be the AFR reading at idle?
Good video I just installed one on my 86 d150 but it doesnt read anything for some reason it just says P00, cycles up and down, then displays 14.7, and then goes up from there until it just displays dashes across the screen, do I need to calibrate it or something?
What if im not running a carb ..but running narrowband ecu . could I just wire it up and use as a logger ?
@Thunderhead289 Luke, have you heard of the AEM AFR kit containing the wrong sensor? Mine worked until the truck warmed up then I noticed the gauge was pegged all the way to the lean side and the display was all dashes. Has anyone run into this?
I may need to look into it.
I have all the parts links in the video description. I highly recommend the wideband, it’s the most enlightening thing you will ever add to a vehicle.
Removes all the guess work
Does that AEM gauge do data logging....?
So would I need two afr gauges on a car with a tunnel ram? with true dual exhaust with no cross over pipe tunnel ram has 2 450 double pumper.
Why do you think you would? Does your tunel ram not have an open plenum area?
@@ThunderHead289 some one just thought I should have one on each bank it's open in middle for airflow I wasn't entirely sure
I just installed this af guage on my 93 f250 460. just rebuilt engine .30 over, comp cams computer grind cam, banks headers and full exhaust package and raised compression from 8.3 to 9.1. still running stock computer and injectors. I installed the sensor for the guage in the Y pipe after the headers and in open loop when cold af ratio is fine but after warm up and closed loop it runs so lean it wont read anymore. Do you think its possible the sensor is too far away from engine or does that matter? Maybe its just that lean and i need to upgrade injectors and regulator? Any help is appreciated and love your videos keep em coming
Is this valuable for a 1bbl carb? On a 78 f250 i-6 300 4.9l
Thank you for replying it does crank slow when you press on the pedal it seems it cranks faster it's got a new battery new starter new coil new ignition module
1970chevy07 gotcha.
After an engine runs, the starter will tend to be a bit heat soaked - sometimes it will crank slower in this case. Also, when an engines warm, rings will seal better and with the throttle closed, an engine is more susceptible to pumping losses.
The other potential item is heat soak - if I have a fully functioning heat crossover on my intake manifold and don’t run a carb spacer it will heat soak bad forcing me to hold the throttle either half open or all the way open when cranking to light off.
1970chevy07. I know this is late, and you may have talked about it but, if it still cranks slow, change your battery cables. My 72 Lemans would crank slow. One day I was cranking it over with the hood up and noticed my positive cable start to smoke from all the cranking. I found that it was corroded on the inside and couldn't pass all the amperage the starter needed. I changed both cables and everything got better.
Just another thought for ya.
@@ThunderHead289 Take a look at Uncle Tony's Garage site he has a simple cheap fix for carb vapor lock.
Have you needed to change the sensor yet? I’ve gone through 3 already.
Is that a "Pace" 40 channel CB?
Do you have to power the sensor separately or do all the sensor wires go direct to the gauge?
If I remember correctly, it’s one either a main power and an ignition switch lead followed by a ground or simply an ignition source and ground.
3 or 2 wires
460 ford with holley 600 cfm. Mine is running lean at part throttle cruising when not under much load usally around 15.7 any idea how to fix that? Thanks.
Several things could be causing it. Depends what part throttle means though - are we talking 5 percent throttle or are we talking up to 50 percent throttle.
@@ThunderHead289 5%
Didn't you have a video with a AFR gauge showing how it the air fuel ratio changed as you stop at a light and speed up? I cant find it again.
andy347495 yes sir - I believe it’s called “carburetors - why you hate them” or something like that
@@ThunderHead289 alright thanks
What kind of mileage do you get with your 302? I just rebuilt mine for my old galaxie and I'm getting somewhere in the neighborhood of 8-10mpg and its for sure not a performance build. It's hard to drive it daily like I used to with mileage this bad
I get around 18-20 BUT, my truck has a 5 speed
@@ThunderHead289 I've got a c4, so nothing in the way of overdrive for me lol. What do you think could be the cause of my mileage being so bad? I assume it has to be carb related, the cam I put in isnt wild enough to warrant such terrible mileage
Timing I would put my money on.
Firing the mixture late will effect economy.
Do you have a vacuum advance?
@@ThunderHead289 Yep, I do have vacuum advance. I never adjusted it though since the engine ran just fine and had decent mileage before I rebuilt it. I think I'm running something like 12 degrees initial, not sure on total with the vacuum and centrifugal though
Dogetor that’s what I would look into. That and your air fuel ratio - I highly recommend the afr gauge I have linked 👍
I recurve all my distributors to bring my timing in quicker. Stock was very lazy, but super safe.
is it posibel that thing cause engine run ON ore fumel with ignition timing like amplifier? because I get strange acurance hapening like smokeing spark plug ports
Could you pull data from afr gage and use an arduino to self tune the fuel circuits?
Wow it's almost like ive already made something to do that
If you use a device to see the chamber (like Colortune) would you need the wideband?
Put a Y pipe on it and read both banks at once.
Everything should be equal - they do sell dual tap o2 set ups that then feed to a single gauge with two displays on the gauge
Luke I have a question I have a 59 ford edsel with a 2100 aftermarket carburetor and the choke does not have a power plugged in can I just run a direct power from the fuse panel????
You can really, as long as it’s a keyed source (off when vehicle is off, on when key is in run position)
@@ThunderHead289 thanks Luke
For dual exhaust 351c if only putting on one cylinder bank, is it best on driver's side or passenger side?
It technically doesn’t matter. If you are really concerned, you can plumb two ports and just move the sensor from side to side. Theoretically it should be the same, but fuel plane intakes will offer a bit of a difference - the plenum that sits lower will technically need one jet size higher roughly. It’s pretty inconsequential to just set everything equal 👍
I wish l could get you to fine tune my 69 f-100 swb 300 cyl. W/C6 auto. I've owned it for 38 yrs. It's a beauty, unfortunately l just can't get it to idle for more than 15 min., starts studdering. Then it dies. It blows black smoke out tailpipe. I really like my truck.
we recently had a similar problem with my daughter's 65 mustang with a 289 she and my dad rebuilt. we had been taking it out for short test drives (eg: less than 20 minutes, around town) and the engine would run fine. but once we started driving for longer time periods (eg: more than 20 minutes) it would stutter and stall out at stop lights. we couldn't figure out what was wrong. well, after a week of testing and trial and error we think we've fixed it. the problem was that our timing was off. by advancing the timing (quite a bit...maybe 45 degrees from where it was at) we've got the engine running great even after 45 minutes of driving. no stuttering or stalling problems at stop lights anymore. (also, her car temp had been at 200 degrees before the fix. now it sits at 180 even after driving around for 45 mins...so that is a nice improvement as well.)
we're sort of new to all this, so we're not quite sure why the timing was fine for 15-20 minutes, and then bad after that. does heat somehow affect timing?
long story short: we thought we got the timing right, but it was only right for up to 15-20 minutes of the engine running.
@@thomasdeaton8768 l don't think engine heat affects the timing, cause the distributor is an electrical item. But since l'm not a mechanic l could be wrong. I finally found the problems (2) causing my 69 f-100 to run so rough and after heating up it just die out. My coil wasn't putting out enough fire, less than the 40 thousand volts needed. I replaced it and thru U-tube found out that l also needed a coil external resistor. After l finished putting these two items on , the truck started right up and to this day is purrs like kitten. It's so smooth running my grandson said " your truck runs so smooth like it's fuel
injected" so yes . l'm glad to hear your car now runs ok. Sometimes it takes quite a bit of time to get an older vehicle to run good. Where l live no mechanic wants to work on my truck, saying we don't have any info. books on it. Soooo... I work on it until l find the problem, but l'm retired l really like to work on ol' Blu. Thats my truck. God bless. I got a video on my truck on U-Yube. Its titled " Ol blu is Finally back on the road again"
@@olblu8746 oh cool. i'm glad to hear you got your truck running right. it sure is a nice satisfying feeling when we finally figure out the problem(s).
also, i watched your video. that's a cool, good-looking truck...and you're right: she does purr like a kitten. great job! 👍
How much would it take to get you to come to eastern Pa and get my f100 dialed in? I’ll fly you out and pay you if you’re interested. I can’t find anyone competent in my area.
Shoot me a message on Facebook - East to find, my name is luke Finley.
If you search luke Thunderhead289, I should be pretty easy to find.
@@ThunderHead289 will do, sir. Thank you.
@@ThunderHead289 ok, sent you a message over there. Thank you.
Any carburated vehicle? I have a carburated Geo metro... Are you a sure?
It’s a wideband - it’s irrelevant what it’s on, it simply tells you the air fuel ratio
Will this help any on propain? Im looking at doing this to tune up my quadrajet because its a real pig to get dialed in. But theres also a propain swap that is gonna be happening in a year or so when i find the time
dont need to add a mass air flow sensor ??
When you got the wide-band in how close was your tune?
Ah, a great question - and I consider myself to be fairly carb knowledgeable: I went up 2 jet sizes and changed from a 35 accelerator pump nozzle to a 31 with an orange cam.
Also changed my power valve to a 10.5
So not huge changes in total, but I’d say it was worth some low end grunt for sure!
ThunderHead289 was that enough change to "feel" the difference? I am still learning to understand the AFR, I know what you want It to be but it fluctuates through load and rpm changes lol
mhn3773 in every rpm it change the ratio. I want to apply this gauge in my motorcycle carburetor type
any decision on the Rotstang yet?
I have a ton of rotstang content I need to put together
My car doesnt have a ecu can i still install this kit?
This truck doesn’t have an ecu either, it’s carbed!
Question I have a 302 when you crank it over is a little heavy and as soon as you press the throttle it's easier any suggestions on it car does run and drive but kinda bothering me
so let me get this straight - it cranks over slow, or it doesnt want to start unless you open the throttle while cranking?
It cranks slow but when you press the pedal it cranks a little faster sometimes it won't start without holding the pedal a little down
Then it will already be there when you decide to upgrade to EFI.
what is a good number on the guage to be when idling
Probably around 14.0:1
why is it that when im at idle my engine sounds great but it idles at like 10.2 to 1 afr. if i adjust it any leaner it starts missing right away. also when i step on the gas it leans way out like just for a second when the accel pump is working, does that mean i need a bigger squirter? 600 quickfuel carb
Without seeing it in person, It sounds like your timing is way late - what is your idle advance?
Also, because of this you would then have your throttle open to far to accommodate rendering your transfer slots useless and causing off idle acceleration issues.
I don’t think you need a bigger squirter, I think it’s a timing & carb balance issue.
Join The Thunderhead289 Facebook group and we can discuss further there 👍
ThunderHead289 thanks, yeah im getting a 383 stroker built right now and going to be using the same carb. Just wondering so i dont hurt the new engine. I know the timing is something on my current engine. we tuned it by ear but the timing mark is off so we are trying to get it as good as we can right now
If u have headers just one side will work?
It will indeed - your engine pulls from both sides of the carb per bank. As long as the carb is set up even from side to side as it should be, your good to go!
@@ThunderHead289 thanks sir love ur vids
Hi had another question which one would be a good one to buy? 74 nova a bit high performance lmk thanks!
Would have made life a lot easier if you simply said - it goes on the exhaust
what transmission is that i'm having a hard time finding the link to the install you mentioned at 3:20 .
Nice truck setup.
thanks for the heads up - i just added it to the links!
Here it is again - its worked very well for me.
ruclips.net/video/v17PubGaO9Y/видео.html
I’m new to carb tuning an I installed a fuel pressure gauge on my edelbrock carb and the stock fuel pump is doing 6-7psi at idle and 10-13 at 1500 is this to much for a edelbrock carb
Wowza, that’s some pressure
That would be too much for it to handle for sure.
Grab you a cheap regulator from summit racing and regulate her down to 5.5 👍
ThunderHead289 thank you sir I will start with that luckily I grabbed a summit regulator the same day I got the gauge just don’t know a lot about carbs other that setting idle and mixture screws been watching your carb videos
if you have any questions, just ask away.
im much easier to catch on facebook at "thunderhead289 carb & engine: tech/tune forum"
O2 sensor for carb???
Of course. Makes tuning maybe a 2 hour job and mitigates any guess work as long as you know what circuit of the carb your on when afr is out of range.
Tuning carbs is far far more than hillybilly how turning mix screws
Very misusing title, this shows nothing on how to tune a carburetor. This is just a very long winded explanation of how to drill a hole and run a wire.
My whole channel is basically how to become a carburetor God