Thank you. Your videos are great and easy to follow. I'm quite enjoying this carb on my 1970 c20 350/350. I just bolted it on and set idle mixture and curb idle, so I'm looking into adjusting the secondaries via a holley spring kit.
The help in all of this series is phenomenal 😁 my el Camino was JUST running (barely) and after this series (in conjunction with the timing videos you put out) mf is running better than it has in I’m almost sure 20 years. I had some gross gunk mixed in my carb due to lack of maintenance as well as lack of proper adjustment and it really made the difference. My timing went from 2deg. Btdc to 18 with a healthy start each time and much better fuel economy. (Econ before ~ 6-8 mpg, after 12-15) on my 350 small block.
Great video on setting up this carb. I wish I'd seen this before I mounted my carb. I had a bit of trouble getting my idle down as well. I don't remember Summit mentioning this in their video. Should be an absolute must before bolt up. Exactly where is the adjustment for this setting? Can it be done with carb already mounted on the car?
For the accelerator pump setting, isn’t the gap supposed to be .015” when the throttle at the wide open position so you don’t bottom out the pump? You always want a tiny bit left over for the pump not to bind up.
Great video as always. First time I have seen one of these carbs - looks to me like Holley took the Autolite design and updated it with parts that are common to the 4150 series - so the US carb world has come full circle. I wonder how many of the parts swap back into an Autolite? - the Venturi booster looks exactly the same for starters.
What is the proper way to adjust the transfer slot opening? I’ve got this exact carb and am trying to get it dialed in. It either wants to idle at 1200 or not at all
Everyone always talks about taking the choke out of the equation but I can’t find anyone who explains how to do that. Isn’t the fast idle cam involved as well? Sorry, newbie here.
Good ole 4010/4011 Holley stopped making them because of the junk floats also mixture screws would turn out while driving. 2 small washers fixed that behind springs and the updated floats you are good to gooo.
I have one of these and after some minor float adjustments the motor ran great . I run the car in the garage and around the yard without and air cleaner. But once I put air cleaner on it hardly runs ,any thoughts ?
i could yse some help . i have a stock sbc 350 with m08750vs backfireing through the intake at idle and off idle but it will settle and stock backfireing in drive at a stop if you let it sit for a minute . and exhaust smells very rich . .070 primary jets and .079 jets in the secondary . timming is set to about 25° advanced at idle for it to not stall out in gear . where should i start ?
Can someone explain how to adjust the idle transfer slots? Mine are open very wide as well. Also for a 289, .030 over, stock intake, stock cam and dual exhaust, should I put my linkage on cam position 1? Thanks
hi mate, hope you're still around. my partner just had her late fathers 1978 Plymouth Fury sent over to Australia, it hadn't been started in years so i did the usual oil change, coolant, cleaned plugs etc. look like all new ignition cables on it. It has a 6 pack Holly setup with demon fuel bowls. i drained the bowls cos they had water in them that gotnin through the scoop. anyway i managed to get it fire up after i reset the float levels but now it'll continually backfire out of the centre carb (the one with the choke) below 1500rpm but not above 1500rpm, i cant seem to get it idle either. Above 1500rpm it runs smooth. is it a carb or inlet valve issue? like to know your thoughts. cheers.
hey bud, maybe you can give me some insight. i did a carb conversion to my 98 k1500, got it running but it idles super high. between 2000 and 2500. wont kick down, cant even dial in the timing just because it idles so high. now this is the second time ive done this. the first time was my brothers 97 k1500. it came out fine, only real diffrence is the carbs. for his truck i used a 4150 brawler , where as mine is the excat same one your doing the video on. any chance you can point me in the right direction?
What would cause this to desiel? The timing is good and the engine runs cool.. I get desieling for a couple seconds after shutting off the engine and blow back out of this carburetor.. any ideas?
@@nonyanonya6389 a year too late but just so you know if your transfer slot is adjusted to far open the motor will continue to pull fuel causing it to diesel.
I have a Holley 4150 650 HP mechanical secondary carb mounted to my 351W. (1970 F100 short bed c6 trans) After many adjustments It is still running very rich!? - White smoke from the exhaust pipes. Rough idle at stop. Accelerates strong and idle smooth's out at about 1800RPM. I have a 5.0 power valve installed. I checked it - its in working order. The accelerator nozzles are 28 in front and 31 in back. I have the A/F screws set at 1 1/2 turns out. Air bleed screws are clear. No apparent vacuum leaks? The only thing I can think of is a stuck needle and seat? Or the transfer slots are to open? The engine has a Thumper Comp Cam installed and I'm pulling 8 to 10 inches of vacuum (at park) After watching this vid I think I will pull carb and check transfer slot position? Any thoughts on my situation? Am I missing something? Your input will be appreciated. I subscribe to your channel. Great Vids. Keep up the good work. Thanks in advance. Mikey
mike, what vacuum are you pulling when you are sitting at a stop in drive? Also, what is your initial ignition timing and what is your idle rpm? lets sort this out together - Regards, LF
Thanks for getting back.....10Hg at idle in drive. I installed a Comp cam so the idle reflects that. Not sure what the initial timing is? Don't have a timing light but ill get one and get that reading. It tends to bog just a little when I accelerate from a stop. Its just not crisp - I cant break the tires loose? I should be able to - all day long? With the work I have done to the heads (roller rockers / double timing chain / bump stick) and the 650 Holley Hp double pumper mechanical secondary's - I should be able to burn up the asphalt - instead its like an old granny getting up from a rocking chair? Thanks for your input in advance. - M
I think we have a 2 part issue here - with a larger cam like that without an aggressive rear end or stall converter its going to bog down. the engine puts the power through the tranny before the cam curve, and with the rear end being fairly tall, its going to want to bog down. couple that with the double pumper dropping all 4 barrels off the line and you have yourself a pretty good scenario to bog out. now as for the idle situation, id imagine that engine wants roughly 15 or so degrees of initial timing, and roughly 36 degrees of total timing. run ported vacuum on your vacuum advance as well. also, on an automatic vehicle i would use a vacuum secondary carb - my 4.56 5 speed mustang uses a summit vacuum secondary carb. do you have a stocker c6 and rear gear?
ThunderHead289 Yes c6 with a shift kit. I'll check timing asap. Your point it's valid and I believe my sluggish acceleration is due to the lack of gearing and mechanical secondaries? I'll keep you posted. Thanks!
depending on how you drive, id suggest a 750 vacuum secondary or a 650 double pumper. the 750 vacuum unit i think would be best for your vehicle. its your choice who to go with there, but i would recommend the summit unit. by far my favorite budget carb on the market. wish i was paid to say that.
I picked one of these carbs up for $75.. Not knowing the history of it, id like to rebuild it....Is the rebuild kit they offer a complete kit and everything i will need?
So this Amazing man is giving Free advice and guys gonna knock him for no tri pod doing him, Really hope he shuts you off, I would in a new York Second sorry had t to Shout out........
Love your videos, but as per one of the commenters 4 years ago, your suggested cam position in the video is around the wrong way. Cam position 1 is for low idle applications according to Holley instructions and not position 2 as you stated in your video. You still need to amend your video to state the correct situation. I need to change the cam back to position 1 for my car (which is a low idle 700rpm car ) as I had changed to position 2 after watching your video and not reading the comments.
Interesting - I must have misspoke and didn’t catch it at the time, thanks for the heads up. 1 is more fuel, typically associated with a low idle but not necessarily has to be that way, while 2 is effectively less fuel - typically associated with a higher idle, though again not necessarily has to be paired with that idle scenario. Think of the pump cams as a way to additionally tune an accelerator nozzle size
@@ThunderHead289 I’m still trying my best to learn from you and have learned an enormous amount watching your videos. Thankyou for doing what you are doing. If you wanted to make some extra money on the side I’d recommend you offer subscribers the chance to have you help them tune their carb and engine using Facetime or equivalent. I’m sure people would pay you to help them tune your carb. I know I would. It’s easy to send money online using zelle or equivalent.
Pretty hard to talk over an engine roaring under a hood - plus that would be a vehicle specific tune which wouldn’t be representative of everyone’s scenario. - I’ll answer your other question here in a bit, but also check out Thunderhead289 at Facebook - I run a tech forum there
A tripod or two make your videos better and easier for you - you can concentrate on talking and pointing. Which makes things better and clearer for us. PS: I agree with you about the noise distraction issue. Thanks for your teaching.
In this video you say position 2 is for lower rpm cars, big cams. Your number 2 tuning video says 1 is for lower idle and more aggressive cams. It’s your basic tuning video #2 . I just double checked.
Thank you. Your videos are great and easy to follow. I'm quite enjoying this carb on my 1970 c20 350/350. I just bolted it on and set idle mixture and curb idle, so I'm looking into adjusting the secondaries via a holley spring kit.
The help in all of this series is phenomenal 😁 my el Camino was JUST running (barely) and after this series (in conjunction with the timing videos you put out) mf is running better than it has in I’m almost sure 20 years. I had some gross gunk mixed in my carb due to lack of maintenance as well as lack of proper adjustment and it really made the difference. My timing went from 2deg. Btdc to 18 with a healthy start each time and much better fuel economy. (Econ before ~ 6-8 mpg, after 12-15) on my 350 small block.
Thank you!!!! I’ve been looking for a video like this on the summit carb for a long time. Going to go through my carb on my truck this weekend.
What a wealth of knowledge you have. Thanks for sharing with us
you got it backwards on the cam numbers pos. 1 is for low idle and 2 is for higher idle
Holy cow did I actually say it the other way?!?!
+ThunderHead289 holy cow I DID say that! I just watched it! Edit coming soon!
Ideological dyslexia. Whoops!
Great video on setting up this carb. I wish I'd seen this before I mounted my carb. I had a bit of trouble getting my idle down as well. I don't remember Summit mentioning this in their video. Should be an absolute must before bolt up. Exactly where is the adjustment for this setting? Can it be done with carb already mounted on the car?
For the accelerator pump setting, isn’t the gap supposed to be .015” when the throttle at the wide open position so you don’t bottom out the pump?
You always want a tiny bit left over for the pump not to bind up.
I think your right
I wish you were my neighbor... I sure could use some tuning help with my grandpas super cab that I'm rebuilding after his passing.
Great video as always. First time I have seen one of these carbs - looks to me like Holley took the Autolite design and updated it with parts that are common to the 4150 series - so the US carb world has come full circle. I wonder how many of the parts swap back into an Autolite? - the Venturi booster looks exactly the same for starters.
What is the proper way to adjust the transfer slot opening? I’ve got this exact carb and am trying to get it dialed in. It either wants to idle at 1200 or not at all
Everyone always talks about taking the choke out of the equation but I can’t find anyone who explains how to do that. Isn’t the fast idle cam involved as well? Sorry, newbie here.
nice just put one on a 56 cheverolet truck needed this info thanks
I'd like to see what you could do with one of the old inline four barrels.
Good ole 4010/4011 Holley stopped making them because of the junk floats also mixture screws would turn out while driving. 2 small washers fixed that behind springs and the updated floats you are good to gooo.
I have one of these and after some minor float adjustments the motor ran great . I run the car in the garage and around the yard without and air cleaner. But once I put air cleaner on it hardly runs ,any thoughts ?
Can you make a video how to swap jets and power valves in the Summit carburetor
Nice video that you're putting together here this is cool thank you high
What is your preference on carb spacers aluminum or penolic
i could yse some help . i have a stock sbc 350 with m08750vs backfireing through the intake at idle and off idle but it will settle and stock backfireing in drive at a stop if you let it sit for a minute . and exhaust smells very rich . .070 primary jets and .079 jets in the secondary . timming is set to about 25° advanced at idle for it to not stall out in gear . where should i start ?
So I'm aware this is very old, but how do I get the choke to back off so I can adjust the transfer slots properly... Electric choke btw
Hey which carb should I go with for a 347 stroker engine with AFR 185cc heads?
Can someone explain how to adjust the idle transfer slots? Mine are open very wide as well. Also for a 289, .030 over, stock intake, stock cam and dual exhaust, should I put my linkage on cam position 1? Thanks
hi mate, hope you're still around. my partner just had her late fathers 1978 Plymouth Fury sent over to Australia, it hadn't been started in years so i did the usual oil change, coolant, cleaned plugs etc. look like all new ignition cables on it. It has a 6 pack Holly setup with demon fuel bowls. i drained the bowls cos they had water in them that gotnin through the scoop. anyway i managed to get it fire up after i reset the float levels but now it'll continually backfire out of the centre carb (the one with the choke) below 1500rpm but not above 1500rpm, i cant seem to get it idle either. Above 1500rpm it runs smooth. is it a carb or inlet valve issue? like to know your thoughts. cheers.
Far too many people think the 15000 clearance is for begging of the stroke but is actualy for the end of the stroke. Good video though.
hey bud, maybe you can give me some insight. i did a carb conversion to my 98 k1500, got it running but it idles super high. between 2000 and 2500. wont kick down, cant even dial in the timing just because it idles so high. now this is the second time ive done this. the first time was my brothers 97 k1500. it came out fine, only real diffrence is the carbs. for his truck i used a 4150 brawler , where as mine is the excat same one your doing the video on. any chance you can point me in the right direction?
How did you adj your curb idle? did I miss it?
This is part 1 - part 2 is on the car
Does anyone know whats the equivalent model number of holleys version of this carb?
4010
What would cause this to desiel? The timing is good and the engine runs cool.. I get desieling for a couple seconds after shutting off the engine and blow back out of this carburetor.. any ideas?
Sounds like your idle is too high
@@nsmturbo5902 thanks bud and yea it was idling too high and the electric choke wasn't connected
@@nonyanonya6389 a year too late but just so you know if your transfer slot is adjusted to far open the motor will continue to pull fuel causing it to diesel.
I have a Holley 4150 650 HP mechanical secondary carb mounted to my 351W. (1970 F100 short bed c6 trans)
After many adjustments It is still running very rich!? - White smoke from the exhaust pipes. Rough idle at stop. Accelerates strong and idle smooth's out at about 1800RPM. I have a 5.0 power valve installed. I checked it - its in working order. The accelerator nozzles are 28 in front and 31 in back. I have the A/F screws set at 1 1/2 turns out. Air bleed screws are clear. No apparent vacuum leaks? The only thing I can think of is a stuck needle and seat? Or the transfer slots are to open? The engine has a Thumper Comp Cam installed and I'm pulling 8 to 10 inches of vacuum (at park) After watching this vid I think I will pull carb and check transfer slot position?
Any thoughts on my situation?
Am I missing something? Your input will be appreciated.
I subscribe to your channel. Great Vids. Keep up the good work.
Thanks in advance.
Mikey
mike,
what vacuum are you pulling when you are sitting at a stop in drive? Also, what is your initial ignition timing and what is your idle rpm?
lets sort this out together -
Regards,
LF
Thanks for getting back.....10Hg at idle in drive. I installed a Comp cam so the idle reflects that. Not sure what the initial timing is? Don't have a timing light but ill get one and get that reading. It tends to bog just a little when I accelerate from a stop. Its just not crisp - I cant break the tires loose? I should be able to - all day long? With the work I have done to the heads (roller rockers / double timing chain / bump stick) and the 650 Holley Hp double pumper mechanical secondary's - I should be able to burn up the asphalt - instead its like an old granny getting up from a rocking chair?
Thanks for your input in advance.
- M
I think we have a 2 part issue here - with a larger cam like that without an aggressive rear end or stall converter its going to bog down. the engine puts the power through the tranny before the cam curve, and with the rear end being fairly tall, its going to want to bog down. couple that with the double pumper dropping all 4 barrels off the line and you have yourself a pretty good scenario to bog out. now as for the idle situation, id imagine that engine wants roughly 15 or so degrees of initial timing, and roughly 36 degrees of total timing. run ported vacuum on your vacuum advance as well. also, on an automatic vehicle i would use a vacuum secondary carb - my 4.56 5 speed mustang uses a summit vacuum secondary carb.
do you have a stocker c6 and rear gear?
ThunderHead289
Yes c6 with a shift kit. I'll check timing asap. Your point it's valid and I believe my sluggish acceleration is due to the lack of gearing and mechanical secondaries? I'll keep you posted.
Thanks!
+deanda5150 sounds good - I'm on Facebook as well where communicating is easier. Luke finley - thunderhead289.
what would cause a carb to cough only while accelerating but not at idle or cruising speed.
Could either be lean, or too rich.
That’s an accelerator pump circuit piece, and oftentimes the power valve plays Into this as well
@@ThunderHead289 could a holly blue pump , regulated cause it to be rich due to the GPH? I upgraded the fuel system and now the issue arises
What carb would u recommend for a 383 stroked pushing over 400hp, and why?
Depends what car your running it in, your gearing, and if it's an auto or not.
4 speed Muncie ,79 short box chevy
+greattribulation heavier vehicle. Stock 3.00 ish gearing? Nothing close to or around 4.00 ?
I'm not sure but probably 3.73
depending on how you drive, id suggest a 750 vacuum secondary or a 650 double pumper. the 750 vacuum unit i think would be best for your vehicle. its your choice who to go with there, but i would recommend the summit unit. by far my favorite budget carb on the market. wish i was paid to say that.
I picked one of these carbs up for $75.. Not knowing the history of it, id like to rebuild it....Is the rebuild kit they offer a complete kit and everything i will need?
Is yours labeled as a summit, an autolite, or a Holley
All the same, but different
Summit 08600VS
ThunderHead289 Can you use the rebuild kits from the other “models”
That’s some good shit! I mean stuff.
Thanks Thank you.. This video really help me.
OK 125,000 subscribers and one more...ME!
So this Amazing man is giving Free advice and guys gonna knock him for no tri pod doing him, Really hope he shuts you off, I would in a new York Second sorry had t to Shout out........
Thanks for that.
Wierd world these days isn’t it
@@ThunderHead289 love n Respect Sir
Man your great but it would help so much more if you actually show the process of each adjustment instead of jumping over them.
Love your videos, but as per one of the commenters 4 years ago, your suggested cam position in the video is around the wrong way. Cam position 1 is for low idle applications according to Holley instructions and not position 2 as you stated in your video. You still need to amend your video to state the correct situation. I need to change the cam back to position 1 for my car (which is a low idle 700rpm car ) as I had changed to position 2 after watching your video and not reading the comments.
Interesting - I must have misspoke and didn’t catch it at the time, thanks for the heads up.
1 is more fuel, typically associated with a low idle but not necessarily has to be that way, while 2 is effectively less fuel - typically associated with a higher idle, though again not necessarily has to be paired with that idle scenario.
Think of the pump cams as a way to additionally tune an accelerator nozzle size
@@ThunderHead289 I’m still trying my best to learn from you and have learned an enormous amount watching your videos. Thankyou for doing what you are doing. If you wanted to make some extra money on the side I’d recommend you offer subscribers the chance to have you help them tune their carb and engine using Facetime or equivalent. I’m sure people would pay you to help them tune your carb. I know I would. It’s easy to send money online using zelle or equivalent.
This is why you dont buy used carbs. Especially if you're new to carbs.
why do you not show anything. youre telling people what to do but not showing how its done!
Pretty hard to talk over an engine roaring under a hood - plus that would be a vehicle specific tune which wouldn’t be representative of everyone’s scenario. - I’ll answer your other question here in a bit, but also check out Thunderhead289 at Facebook - I run a tech forum there
Trying to do it with one hand? Get a tripod, dude. They're cheap. There's really no excuse for all this 'I gotta do it one-handed' baloney.
A tripod or two make your videos better and easier for you - you can concentrate on talking and pointing. Which makes things better and clearer for us.
PS: I agree with you about the noise distraction issue. Thanks for your teaching.
In this video you say position 2 is for lower rpm cars, big cams. Your number 2 tuning video says 1 is for lower idle and more aggressive cams. It’s your basic tuning video #2 . I just double checked.