Excellent and informative videos 289 , I think the 4 idle carbs which are becoming more prevalent they require less turns out some of them only 3/4 turns out ! To get a smooth or best idle 👍
heyo.. great videos! love your work, and thank you for taking the time to upload these. quick question: does the o2 gauge cancel out the need for the vacuum gauge when setting idle mixture and finding the highest manifold vacuum?
+Terry Sharon hey, that’s great to hear 👍 A lot of carb tuning begins with the idle circuit and so many people go wrong right from the get go! I’m actually doing an engine on camera right now - just cut part 1 last Friday
+William Morton no problem! glad im helping someone out there. definitely learned through a lot of pain. no reason for others to have to go through that.
Hi bro! to go fine with my primary throtle Blades and the transfer slot , its just 1 full turn of the idle screw or two full turns yo get right with the Transfer slot. thanks
Watching your carb videos now and i saw the accelerator pump discharge nozzles you had, have you tried the thompson performance powerblast plate under them? I was wondering what you think of them i havent seen any videos on anyone using them yet but the reviews were good.
Hey, great videos great info as I am getting into lots of older vehicles and I wish to keep them efi free and computer free :). I got finished rebuilding my amc 327 in my 68 Jeep truck and getting ready for cam break in. I need to rebuild the carb as it sat for a year and leaked fuel from cracked seals and gaskets almost immediately. Another factor for the leaks is my electric fuel pump putting too much psi for the needle and seat. I will now be running a pressure regulator and gauge to monitor my psi. Are you familiar with Holley economaster 2300 models? I imagine the settings for idle mixture, curb idle mixture, and the float bowl settings are all similar to the 4barrels you feature the difference being no secondaries. Is there a “benchmark” or base setting for the mixture for doing a cam break in as idleing and testing is out of the question until the 20 min 2000 rpm break in recommended by my machinist is over. Thanks!
Hi ya Luke great tutorials! With setting the curb idle with ported vacuum you said to advance the distributor to get your desired idle rpm. Well I fully adjusted the distributor to as far as it would go to about 24 degrees, I was still shy of my desired 800 rpm that’s way too much advance for my liking. You also said you can turn the curb idle screw a little to adjust the curb idle without upsetting the transfer slots? I would like to leave the secondary butterflies as they were from factory ( closed ) without adjusting them to compensate the idle rpm. You mentioned this also, but in another video you said to adjust the secondary’s for extra idle rpm’s? I might connect the vacuum gauge to the ported vacuum and see if I can adjust the curb idle screw to gain the some rpm’s without upsetting the transfer slots letting vacuum in? Hope you can help? Thanks Regards Greg
Would this work for any carb? I have a single barrel. Also when I hook my vaccum gauge that's without the vaccum advance attached right? Is it ok to attach the gauge to the same port as the pcv?
like your vids thunder...reminds me of the days I raced 1/4mile drags tearing apart carb after carb watching plug color and times, power valve plugs, increasing air bleed size, jets, squirters, ....hay had to ask, with all the issues surrounding carbs...lots of them along with the fuel pump issues, have you thought of going towards a holley efi terminator set up?
chevy vega I hear you - I do it for the people. A lot of guys don’t have the funds to do the efi stuff and carburetor tuning seems to be like folklore these days - I try to provide a channel that caters to the layman where they can keep rolling down the road trouble free
In another video you mentioned not relying on the curb idle screw; but rather, installing an allen screw in the base to facilitate adjusting the secondary butterflies. Was that for a mechanical secondary and not a vacuum driven one? Or, are you just trying to keep it simple for the new and inexperienced?
+mark teague im trying to keep it simple, but also use good practices. i still mention only exposing the transfer slot so only a square is showing and then using your initial timing to get your idle right. from there, i personally will adjust the secondaries, but for beginners and with mild street engines, this will work best. when you get up to higher idles like 800 plus, thats when the secondary butterflies need to start opening.
I have a 650 quadrajet could you do a set up on them. 1981 vet. 350.has a mild cam. Motor is set up to a 1979 350. Computer has been dis connected. Had carb. Rebuilt at a shop that does carbs for race engines good repu tation on carbs. I would like to go to Holly but linkage won't work on my linkage, any help would be helpful.
just curious when you are using this method to set the initial timing are you doing this in gear and are you vacuum capping off the advance can while setting timing? Thanks!
I am capping off the vacuum advance for sure - i have manual cars, so its easy for me. with an auto, you would want to set it up exactly how you would be sitting when you came to a stop on the road. check out my most recent two carb videos. these should be very helpful - a little more to the point, and demonstrated on an engine.
Good morning. I just subscribed to your Channel. I have a question (posted same comment in detail on your "Holley Carb Flooding Solution -FUEL PRESSURE" video a few minutes ago). My question is; why does my engine shut off AS SOON AS I LET OFF THE GAS PEDAL after launching from dead stand still @ 3200-rpm?
+Buick Torque iv only had this issue once back in the day when i drag raced the galaxie with a mechanical fuel pump with my smaller fuel line and no return line (open gas tank breather). i had to put a fuel pressure gauge in my car to determine this. when i left the line, the inertia working on the fuel would literally cause a moment of fuel starvation. it was either that or fuel slosh away from my pickup. after an electric pump the issue went away, and with some gas tank baffling it has never happened again. its hard to say. an aft gauge and a temporary fuel pressure gauge plumbed to the inside of your car can tell you a lot.
if you have the time, i 100 percent recommend running a return line. made a huge difference in performance loses in hot weather. with your actual issue, i 100 percent beleive that it is because your pump is too high. lower it and run just the electric pump. What i do with the galaxie is have a block off plate and if i ever have an issue, i have my mechanical pump on hand to install as it will pull through a dead electric pump. my biggest concern with running both is that if your mechanical pump fails, you fill your engine with gasoline. iv had issues with burning down electric pumps without having a return line, so do keep that in mind. my improvised fuel line in virginia worked wonders. heres the video on it. ruclips.net/video/YUmaAQoHggM/видео.html
Quick question for you. I have a 1968 Thundebird with a bone stock 429 with a holley 4160 vacuum secondary up top. When i turn on the car it starts slowly reving up like i have my foot on the gas and im slowly pushing on it. Can you think of anything i should check. i do have a secondary issue when i need to replace the voltage regulator. Do you think this could be causing the issue?
Well, as an engine warms up, it will atomize the fuel better as it gets warmer and the idle will increase. Make all your adjustments on a fully warmed engine. Or is it an unnatural increase like 500 rpm in 10 seconds
Usually what I do is see where it’s at while running, then shut the vehicle off, readjust, then run it again. Holley recommends that this is all done while running, but that needle and seat assembly is pressurized. Unless you want fuel all over your intake, I’d do it how I noted
Hey... Enjoying your videos.... But just getting into this one and you made it sound like a huge no no to touch the blade position on the secondaries, but in the previous video you showd how you use this to help your idle mixture
Let me elaborate on that. I used to teach that, but people tend to mess their stuff up when they do it and they have a hard time with it. If it's not a drag car, really most folks will be fine doing it with just the curb idle screw. Just make sure the transfer slots are set correctly.
I have a 496 in my 89 gmc that i occasionally race. But right now im having isuues at part throttle.... Cruising a 60mph/3000 rpm my afr is at 10.0-10.6. Idle is 14.5-14.9 and wot is perfect at 12.3-12.6... Tomorrow i will be trying to lower my front float as i know its in the top 3/4 of the sight glass... By the way, 780 quick fuel vac secondary. 72 in the front 84 in the back 6.5 pv 15in/hg at cruise. 241@50 hydraulic roller. Any info is greatly appreciated... Ps.. You do wuite a good job with your videos
Авто/Мото
Thanks brother best overview of this specific topic! I hope there’s more from you on all the other areas!
I have the same carb or similar. Holley 4160
600cfm. Thanks for doing this video! I learned more about carbs with your videos man.
Excellent and informative videos 289 , I think the 4 idle carbs which are becoming more prevalent they require less turns out some of them only 3/4 turns out ! To get a smooth or best idle 👍
heyo.. great videos! love your work, and thank you for taking the time to upload these.
quick question: does the o2 gauge cancel out the need for the vacuum gauge when setting idle mixture and finding the highest manifold vacuum?
Thank you... followed these steps exactly and my 750 vacuum secondary ran perfect.
+Terry Sharon hey, that’s great to hear 👍
A lot of carb tuning begins with the idle circuit and so many people go wrong right from the get go! I’m actually doing an engine on camera right now - just cut part 1 last Friday
man i love your vidoes you seem to know your shit you have helped me tune my carb a bunch tahnks for the tech and keep the videos coming!
+William Morton no problem! glad im helping someone out there. definitely learned through a lot of pain. no reason for others to have to go through that.
I just watched your other video where you state on a mech second carb to adj secondary plates to just open the slot(square).
Thank you for the vid, good info
Hi bro! to go fine with my primary throtle Blades and the transfer slot , its just 1 full turn of the idle screw or two full turns yo get right with the Transfer slot. thanks
Thanks, I did learned something. 👍
QUESTION FOR YOU EVER HAD A holley carb just rev up........ only does it on drive, on park carb at right rev up idles perfect! thxs
Do I leave the vacuum advance connected when I’m adjusting the mixture screws?
Any ideas on setting up idle for 6 pack carbs?
Watching your carb videos now and i saw the accelerator pump discharge nozzles you had, have you tried the thompson performance powerblast plate under them? I was wondering what you think of them i havent seen any videos on anyone using them yet but the reviews were good.
Hey, great videos great info as I am getting into lots of older vehicles and I wish to keep them efi free and computer free :). I got finished rebuilding my amc 327 in my 68 Jeep truck and getting ready for cam break in. I need to rebuild the carb as it sat for a year and leaked fuel from cracked seals and gaskets almost immediately. Another factor for the leaks is my electric fuel pump putting too much psi for the needle and seat. I will now be running a pressure regulator and gauge to monitor my psi. Are you familiar with Holley economaster 2300 models? I imagine the settings for idle mixture, curb idle mixture, and the float bowl settings are all similar to the 4barrels you feature the difference being no secondaries. Is there a “benchmark” or base setting for the mixture for doing a cam break in as idleing and testing is out of the question until the 20 min 2000 rpm break in recommended by my machinist is over. Thanks!
Hi ya Luke great tutorials!
With setting the curb idle with ported vacuum you said to advance the distributor to get your desired idle rpm. Well I fully adjusted the distributor to as far as it would go to about 24 degrees, I was still shy of my desired 800 rpm that’s way too much advance for my liking. You also said you can turn the curb idle screw a little to adjust the curb idle without upsetting the transfer slots?
I would like to leave the secondary butterflies as they were from factory ( closed ) without adjusting them to compensate the idle rpm. You mentioned this also, but in another video you said to adjust the secondary’s for extra idle rpm’s? I might connect the vacuum gauge to the ported vacuum and see if I can adjust the curb idle screw to gain the some rpm’s without upsetting the transfer slots letting vacuum in? Hope you can help? Thanks
Regards
Greg
Would this work for any carb? I have a single barrel. Also when I hook my vaccum gauge that's without the vaccum advance attached right? Is it ok to attach the gauge to the same port as the pcv?
As an old 289 271HP owner I appreciate this channel.
like your vids thunder...reminds me of the days I raced 1/4mile drags tearing apart carb after carb watching plug color and times, power valve plugs, increasing air bleed size, jets, squirters, ....hay had to ask, with all the issues surrounding carbs...lots of them along with the fuel pump issues, have you thought of going towards a holley efi terminator set up?
chevy vega I hear you - I do it for the people. A lot of guys don’t have the funds to do the efi stuff and carburetor tuning seems to be like folklore these days - I try to provide a channel that caters to the layman where they can keep rolling down the road trouble free
making the ride all complete slammin in your ride captain ride 8 track
So does that work on a 2 barrel Holley 24 a 318 74 Plymouth Duster
In another video you mentioned not relying on the curb idle screw; but rather, installing an allen screw in the base to facilitate adjusting the secondary butterflies. Was that for a mechanical secondary and not a vacuum driven one? Or, are you just trying to keep it simple for the new and inexperienced?
+mark teague im trying to keep it simple, but also use good practices. i still mention only exposing the transfer slot so only a square is showing and then using your initial timing to get your idle right. from there, i personally will adjust the secondaries, but for beginners and with mild street engines, this will work best. when you get up to higher idles like 800 plus, thats when the secondary butterflies need to start opening.
I have a 650 quadrajet could you do a set up on them. 1981 vet. 350.has a mild cam. Motor is set up to a 1979 350. Computer has been dis connected. Had carb. Rebuilt at a shop that does carbs for race engines good repu
tation on carbs. I would like to go to Holly but linkage won't work on my linkage, any help would be helpful.
just curious when you are using this method to set the initial timing are you doing this in gear and are you vacuum capping off the advance can while setting timing? Thanks!
I am capping off the vacuum advance for sure - i have manual cars, so its easy for me. with an auto, you would want to set it up exactly how you would be sitting when you came to a stop on the road. check out my most recent two carb videos. these should be very helpful - a little more to the point, and demonstrated on an engine.
Will do. Thanks for the info and quick reply!
Good morning. I just subscribed to your Channel.
I have a question (posted same comment in detail on your "Holley Carb Flooding Solution -FUEL PRESSURE" video a few minutes ago).
My question is; why does my engine shut off AS SOON AS I LET OFF THE GAS PEDAL after launching from dead stand still @ 3200-rpm?
+Buick Torque iv only had this issue once back in the day when i drag raced the galaxie with a mechanical fuel pump with my smaller fuel line and no return line (open gas tank breather). i had to put a fuel pressure gauge in my car to determine this. when i left the line, the inertia working on the fuel would literally cause a moment of fuel starvation. it was either that or fuel slosh away from my pickup. after an electric pump the issue went away, and with some gas tank baffling it has never happened again. its hard to say. an aft gauge and a temporary fuel pressure gauge plumbed to the inside of your car can tell you a lot.
+ThunderHead289 Thanks VERY MUCH for your reply. I am using both electric and mechanical fuel pumps with no return line.
if you have the time, i 100 percent recommend running a return line. made a huge difference in performance loses in hot weather. with your actual issue, i 100 percent beleive that it is because your pump is too high. lower it and run just the electric pump. What i do with the galaxie is have a block off plate and if i ever have an issue, i have my mechanical pump on hand to install as it will pull through a dead electric pump. my biggest concern with running both is that if your mechanical pump fails, you fill your engine with gasoline. iv had issues with burning down electric pumps without having a return line, so do keep that in mind. my improvised fuel line in virginia worked wonders. heres the video on it. ruclips.net/video/YUmaAQoHggM/видео.html
+ThunderHead289 ... thanks; I have to rush out for 20 minutes ... I will return to read and reply.
+ThunderHead289 ... understood. I am back, and checking out the link now.
Quick question for you. I have a 1968 Thundebird with a bone stock 429 with a holley 4160 vacuum secondary up top. When i turn on the car it starts slowly reving up like i have my foot on the gas and im slowly pushing on it. Can you think of anything i should check. i do have a secondary issue when i need to replace the voltage regulator. Do you think this could be causing the issue?
Well, as an engine warms up, it will atomize the fuel better as it gets warmer and the idle will increase. Make all your adjustments on a fully warmed engine. Or is it an unnatural increase like 500 rpm in 10 seconds
ThunderHead289 It isn't natural. it goes from like 1000 up to 2500 in a matter of seconds much like if you were accelerating onto the highway
Do you think the choke being tuned improperly could cause this?
To set the bowl level with top screw, is the car running at this time?
Usually what I do is see where it’s at while running, then shut the vehicle off, readjust, then run it again.
Holley recommends that this is all done while running, but that needle and seat assembly is pressurized.
Unless you want fuel all over your intake, I’d do it how I noted
2-1/2 turns on the mixer screws? is that full turns? I ask because other guys have shown 2-1/2 half turns.
Kooduh Holley states 1 1/2 to 2 turns, not 2 1/2. I am gonna try your settings.
Hey... Enjoying your videos.... But just getting into this one and you made it sound like a huge no no to touch the blade position on the secondaries, but in the previous video you showd how you use this to help your idle mixture
Let me elaborate on that. I used to teach that, but people tend to mess their stuff up when they do it and they have a hard time with it. If it's not a drag car, really most folks will be fine doing it with just the curb idle screw. Just make sure the transfer slots are set correctly.
I have a 496 in my 89 gmc that i occasionally race. But right now im having isuues at part throttle.... Cruising a 60mph/3000 rpm my afr is at 10.0-10.6. Idle is 14.5-14.9 and wot is perfect at 12.3-12.6... Tomorrow i will be trying to lower my front float as i know its in the top 3/4 of the sight glass... By the way, 780 quick fuel vac secondary. 72 in the front 84 in the back 6.5 pv 15in/hg at cruise. 241@50 hydraulic roller. Any info is greatly appreciated... Ps.. You do wuite a good job with your videos
But this is y i was considering opening the secondaries... To help lean out the cruise afr
No advice then?
+Joel Scharfenberg I plan to address this - I'm a traveling engineer by day unfortunately it keeps me very busy
He said the last time to do one and a half turns so is it one and a half or 2 1/2 turns great videos Ummm you ummm know,
Thanks
dave colquhoun damn my speaking skills ha!
Start 2 to 2.5 our and you will always lean it down from there.
hey where did the dog go ?
$150 + Vacuum pressure gage+rebuild kit= cost of a new Holley.
Not up here in canada😂
Dude you put me to sleep
Debbie H it’s just like class. Welcome to carb school.
At 10;47, "unloosen"? wouldn't that end up being to tighten? LOL
lol fail
I read this comment the exact same time he said it lol