Hydraulic Clutch Conversion Installation and Review
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
- Part 4 of my AOD to T5 manual swap: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion Installation and Review. If you haven't seen the first three videos hit STOP and watch them now to get up to speed on how to convert your boring automatic to a stick shift:
Part 1: • How to Swap a Manual i...
Part 2: • T5 Swap Parts List and...
Part 3: • T5 Install Tips and Tr...
In this video we cover the most tedious steps in crucial detail. This video will show you how to install a third clutch pedal into your automatic, install the master cylinder (Modern Driveline PN: MD-910-0022), bleed and test the system, and finally a complete review of whether this kit is right for you.
I'm the owner of MDL. Thank you for purchasing our Light Foot series hydraulic kit. I reviewed your video and would like answer some of your questions.
On the falcon/Comet clutch pedal I modeled on the oem. I left all the attachment point the same including the pin you mentioned. When installing the falcon master cylinder kit the factory clutch pedal linkage pin has to be removed. Based on you input we could easily not install the pin and let a customer install it using mechanical linkage.
I'm looking to see if a replacement gasket could be included with the kit. There is cost for this part so the retail price would have to be adjusted. Our pedals are 100% made in America. The removable pivot shaft design is more expensive to produce but we see this as a huge time saver. The old saying time is money. We want to save both. Could make the pedal oversea for half the price, maybe but not interested.
If you like feel free to reach out to me. Love to chat with more in detail.
I really appreciate you taking the time to watch my video and comment. It means a lot. Of all the cars I own surprisingly the Comet has the best feeling clutch! Would buy again in a heartbeat!
Great honest and informative content as usual
I would love this but my bellhousing has the clutch fork angled down
Oh and it goes in gear just wont release,, thanks for the advice
Hey just watched your video and we’re switching my son’s clutch cable to the malwood clutch pedal with a external slave. Great pedal quality with a somewhat easier installation but trying to get it dialed in! Trying to bleed it with the mdl bleeder and noticed that after opening the bleeder it doesn’t seem that easy to push the fluid through like it shows on the mdl website! Feel a lot of back pressure, notice that you mentioned that too. Any tips to get it through easier? No way I can push it all down in 3 seconds! Reason I’m thinking that there’s still air in the line is that it grinds trying to get it in reverse but goes in all 5 gears . Any info would be appreciated!
It’s been a while since I did it but can you open the bleeder all the way or perhaps more than it is now?
Modern Driveline tech support may be able to help you. I appreciate you watching and recall this being tedious
Thx for responding back! I know it’s been awhile since you did that project but figure I’d take a chance and see you would remember! 😂 we’ll keep on trying to bleed the system some more since I think that’s the reason it’s not going into reverse at the moment.
I installed mine in 68 cougar c4 to t5 MDL. i can Not get clutch to release, please i need ur help, i did Not do the bell housing run out, 1st time installing cluch and by myself No help, is that why not realeasing? i have the travel at master and run the bolt to the end on slave, maybe pedal adjustment?? I dont want to have to take it back out but if i need to do runout on bell i will thanks so much for the video
I would check a few things
1. Distance from TOB to pressure plate fingers
2. How much travel do you have at slave cylinder rod
3. Is the system bleed properly?
tob touching fingers and i cant get in there to measure travel, getting dark and ill try again tom, and you mite be right on with the bleeding, i just hoping its not because i didnt check run out on bell housing? Got frustra
ted last summer so hoping to get it right, thanks for the fast response, you dont know but u made my day, have a great day!!@@truckandroll989
I have a 2003 v6 mustang. I'm looking to install a hydraulic clutch for easier use.
Id highly recommend it. Ive had multiple SN95 era mustangs with the cable clutch and its brutal. Money well spent
I have a 1966 Chevy Nova Super Sport and very difficult to go thru the gears. I am considering to switch to a Hydraulic Clutch. I have a manual transmission now. What do I need to consider?
Without knowing your trans type you have to find a spot to mount a master and slave cylinder. I dont love internal (concentric) slave cylinders because when they fail the whole trans has to come out. They can be a pain to bleed sometimes and you have to route a hydraulic line ensuring it stays away from hot engine components. Otherwise they drive like a new car. My grandmother could use the clutch in my Comet. Once it is setup right it makes the car a lot of fun but its more tedious to get setup
Thank you I am going to take it to a local garage that works on old classics. I just wanted to know if it possible. Do I have to change out the transmission?
@@ralphevock1 shouldnt have to unless its an older transmission that no one makes a kit for. The external slave, like what I have on mine, could actuate the stock fork with some measurements/checks. Call Modern Driveline and they can likely help too.
I did some Googling for you. Assuming you have a Muncie 4 spd it looks like there are a handful of hydraulic clutch conversions online. They use the concentric style slave cylinder. Pro tip: make sure you install a longer bleed hose if you go that route to make servicing it simple.
How far does the clutch fork move when you push the clutch peddle? Where does the clutch engage when you let off the peddle? Right off the floor , the middle?
It engages somewhere between floor/middle but not at the top. I dont recall exactly how far the clutch fork movement is but I could have swore it was in one of my instal videos
Did you notice quit a bit of slop with the clutch fork once it’s installed with out any pre load? We are seeing quite a bit of up and down movement
Yes I noticed the exact same thing. IMO the clutch fork they supply you with isnt the best. I did ask MDL about this and they told me it was normal 🤷♂️
@@truckandroll989 have you noticed any issues while driving? Inconsistent pedal feel, noise? We are actually converting from the tilton unit. We have had nothing but inconsistent pedal feel with it.
@@ryanjamesupham pedal feel has been firm. No issues there. Just a bit squeaky at times
I have a 67 galaxie , I bought a kit for a mustang but was wondering if it matters where I install the master cylinder ? Does it have to be at a certain point to get the right angles ?
Yea it really does matter. You want to ensure the pushrod going from your pedal into the cylinder is going in a straight line, not bending, no binding, etc. Definitely a step you want to double check your measurements with
Can I send you a few pics. Getting ready to do something like this
Sure just hit me up on IG truckandroll989
@@truckandroll989 can't send pics to it. i don't have a account are you on facebook
@@truckandroll989 ruclips.net/video/IcxDCtRpo3A/видео.html
Sorry, no. If you have questions I can take a stab at answering them here.
in this truck
I could use some help. How can I reach you? Thanks
Just post your question here. Others may be needing to know the same thing. Ill try to help
@@truckandroll989 Eaton fuller FSO8406A clutch arm is hugged up near Accelerator? However pedal is far left. I
Was looking for a solution, wanted to send you a photo
@@johnathonjsmith to be honest I havent messed with the clutches on this thing. My thought would be if you can disconnect the linkages and start eliminating that first and then check clutch pedal for proper movement, see if you can manipulate clutch fork by hand with a bar of some sort to ensure thats not your issue. Sort of a process of elimination approach
Soooooo much word salad , just show what you did and save the emotional angst part , picture is worth a 1000 words , i bailed at the 3/4 mark , play the scene from Good Will Hunting where he burns the math paper and crushes the professor in 15 words !
Sorry it wasnt for you. Plenty more videos in the series. It can be hard to explain and film at the same time