Clutch and brake pedal install - 1967 Ford Mustang - Transmission conversion - C4 auto to 4-Speed
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- Опубликовано: 14 мар 2021
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Things I used in this video.
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Brake Pedal Pad W/ Trim Ring amzn.to/3e3ALK6
Brake Pedal - Power Manual Transmission amzn.to/3ll2NTV
Clutch Pedal Return Spring amzn.to/3cE3qUo
Basic mechanics tool set amzn.to/3ob7q2B
GoPro Camera & accessories amzn.to/2NwysVu
Lighting set up amzn.to/3ph54R2
National Parts Depot list
7519-2A PEDAL, Clutch, repro
7A624-1 CLUTCH PEDAL PAD
7B544-1 TRIM COVER, CLUTCH PEDAL PAD
7583-3A BUMPER, CLUTCH AND BRAKE PEDAL
7534-1 SPRING, CLUTCH PEDAL
7A630-1 CLUTCH PEDAL ASSIST SPRING INSULATOR
01508-2B SUPPORT, BRAKE AND CLUTCH PEDAL
2471-1 BRAKE AND CLUTCH PEDAL SUPPORT BUSHING
352358-S100 SPRING CLIP, COTTER PIN
7535-2A BRACKET, CLUTCH PEDAL SPRING, TO PEDAL SUPPORT
7535-2AK MOUNTING KIT, CLUTCH PEDAL SPRING BRACKET
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Alf's Mustang Garage is not responsible for any mechanical or technical error that you may encounter when working on your own car. You are responsible for your own quality control and your own proper repairs.
Today at Alf's Mustang Garage we are continuing on our transmission conversion changing out the C4 automatic for a 4 speed toploader. Today we are changing the pedals around. We remove the original automatic brake pedal, ad the clutch pedal, and install a new power brake pedal for standard transmission. 
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Wow ! You made that look easy !!! I have never seen any other detailed process for that like that. I think in many cases this part is scary for people. I will tell you this. The fresh air vent on your 67 is WAYYYY easier than on my 66. I had to remove it to fix the cowl vent and I tell you it was UP THERE ...Thanks again
Lol well it always looks easy when you can edit all the struggles out 😆 😆 😆 thanks for the kind comments and yes those 66 cars fresh air vents are a little tighter and more difficult.
This guy is the best 👌🏾 so helpful and a great teacher.
I dont subscribe to much on RUclips but I have subscribed to Alfs Mustage Garage. Alf you are the master. The best Mustang videos globally. I’m hooked
Well thank you very much! Welcome to the club! 🤣
Keep blazing the trail man, I have a 67 coupe that I just swapped out a 289 for a rebuilt 390, it had the 4 sp top loader in it so I kept in. Your videos are crisp, well spoken, direct and I thank you for taking the time to make them. Rock on !!
Thank you very much for the comment! Getting nice compliments like this is what really helps motivate me to keep it up. Very awesome with the 390 swap! That's going to be a beast!
Thank you Alf for this great video! All the butterflies in my stomach are now gone.
Oh awesome! You're very welcome.
that big spring is actually the "clutch assist spring" which reduces the force needed to push in the clutch pedal!
Ya that's a common misconception. It assists in bringing the clutch pedal back up. Clutch pedal return spring 👍
I disagree. If you see the way the spring cams over it’s pushing the pedal down, not up! when you installed the spring you had to pull it hard to the up position. I bought one because my 67 convertible has the Z bar linkage and a Centerforce clutch which is very had to disengage. When I ordered it they called it a “clutch assist spring”. Thanks for showing how to install it!
Nice! I love those gloves.
Thank you!
Awesome video (like the other videos regarding a manual swap). I have a 67 that is mostly a rolling shell. Seems doing the swap now is the best time since there's no engine or trans in it. Thanks again for the video. Keep em' coming. : )
You're very welcome!
Great video. I pulled my bracket out today. I have a 70 and the bracket is way bigger than that 67. I had to remove the dash pad and gauge cluster. Mine was missing the return spring and the bracket actually has two cage nuts that slide and mount to the lower dash. Mine were rusted to the bolts and spinning with them. Had to drill them out. Trying to determine if this thing is salvageable. Just upgraded to power disk by master power. What I thought was a minor pedal install will now cause me some me lost time since I planned on having my new power booster and MC installed today. Good times. Keep those videos coming. Very professional and extremely informative. If I wasn’t all the way in the north east I’d be a customer!
Oh right on, thanks for the nice comment. One thing I've learned about cars of this age is its always more than I anticipate. Good luck and thanks for watching 👍
Great video!!!! Motivates me more!!!!!, Looks easy
Thank you! It always looks easy when there is an edit button lol
Awesome video as usual. I too want to convert from a C-6 to top loader, probably next year or over the winter on my 67 Gt 460 BBF. Cheers from Motown.
Oh dang! That sounds like a beast!
@@AlfsMustangGarage Ex- 8 second race car converted back to street. Just a mild built 460 with all the good parts though. Thanks for your great videos. I have drawn much knowledge for my projects.
That's awesome. The good thing about those 460's is it doesn't take a whole lot to make good power!
Awesome stuff! I see NPD has different part numbers for the support for manual brakes verse power brakes.
Correct, ya I think the difference is the power brakes has open holes for the firewall to allow the booster stud to pass through. Whereas the manual has threaded boss' to bolt a master cylinder to. 👍
Great video. Really appreciate it.
You're very welcome
Thank you 😊!!!
Great Jod! “5 Stars”
Thank you!
thanks for the video
You're very welcome
This was a great video, thanks for the detailed info. I have a ‘68 GT/CS where I’d like to add a manual and get to a better rpm at freeway cruise speeds.
I know you removed the pedal support so we could see, but us it just as easy to install in the car…removing the booster and MS doesn’t seem totally necessary, but curious on your opinion.
Thanks again…!
Thank you for the comment. So you're right, removing the booster and master cylinder are not necessary if you simply want to add a clutch pedal. This particular car was getting a power front disc brake conversion at the same time. So that's why I had all that out. I will tell you from experience though, installing the clutch pedal with the support installed is not possible if you're still using the factory clutch pedal return spring. Lol I tried and got learned. So you have to at least unbolt it so you can move it around or assemble out of car and then install.
Alf, What a descriptive video, it really helps a lot in assisting us DIY to do the work on our own. I have a question. I am in the process of upgrading my 65 Mustang FB with power brakes and a T-5. Car at this moment has a C-4. For the 65 a special power brake is also required? Appreciate yur coments
Thank you! I think you're asking me if the brake pedal is different for power brakes on a 65? If so, the answer is no. 65 and 66 used the same brake pedal for power or manual brakes. You will need a different pedal because of the transmission conversion though. I'm sure you already know that though. Good luck and sounds like an awesome project!
@@AlfsMustangGarage Thank you for reply and assistance
New subscriber 👍
Thank you!
Thanks!
Oh my gosh! Thank you so much for the Super Thanks! You're officially the first person to do that!
@@AlfsMustangGarage No worries-happy to provide. That was golden info provided and well worth a little “something” for your time and effort. Wish others would recognize the efforts of others…this will help with my future TKX conversion.
Well sir you are a philosopher and a gentleman. Thank you!
Your videos are so good, they are saving me! I have one problem, I was watching your video for this installation and when i was messing with the clutch fork boot, i accidentally pulled the clutch fork off of the throw out bearing. I barely took any effort! Now, I have to somehow manage to get it back on. Is it possible for me to this without taking the whole tranny out??
Thank you! I'm glad to hear they are helpful. As far as this clutch fork is concerned....I honestly don't know. I've never been in that situation. I would probably at least try before you remove the transmission. I would imagine this will be tricky to pull off. I wish I had more advise on this. Good luck!
@@AlfsMustangGarage Alright, thank you and keep it up!
Do you know if I still need a return spring if I have a clutch cable set up?
Hi brother Alf! Sorry to be a pain. Went to replace my brake pedal and found out it is bolted to upper pedal support, (power brake pedal) No wonder the car don't want to stop! Ex-4 speed factory car so I will pull out the pedal support as there is no way I can reach that one bolt holding the brake pedal. LOL, the four speed pedal was under the carpet. Removed return spring. I will remove air box and remove clutch pedal. I'm just gonna cut the pedal part off so I can use the rest for the Pin that does through clutch and into brake pedal. Master Cyl is out so just two firewall bolts for upper support and the two screws. Dang, thought this would be easy swap! Dooooh, nothing easy for ole Bob! Just in case, what size is that nut for the pwer brake pedal you are installing? I might use a long ratchet and find the nut blind and remove. Might be easier to remove the whole support.??? Thanks sorry to bother you. Hope the move is going good. Later.
Oh wow ya that makes sense. I can't remember the size of that nut. More than likely it was a 9/16" but could be a 1/2" also. I found it easier to at least un-bolt the support and then you can access the top much easier. But then again at that point its probably pretty easy to remove. Good luck!
@@AlfsMustangGarage 2 months later update. Yes pulled the support, pulled the 9/16" bolt easily, Cleaned/removed rust from support and painted like new. Got a bushing kit from NPD for the brake rod and new brake light switch. Support went in much easier then it came out. Added Scott drake adjustable master cyl. push rod and adjusted for good pedal height. Bleeding system. Mushy brake pedal. Pulled calipers and bench inspected. two out out four pistons frozen. Replaced both calipers with new Kelsey Hayes type Bled system again. Ran bowl dry. Bench bled master again. Bled system again. lol, Much better pedal but a tad soft. Will bleed again (air somewhere in there). Ready for 4 shock absorber replacement. Thanks again, could not have done this without your videos and advice! Much appreciated sir! Gott find your video of rear shock replacement. Take care, many blessings to you from Motown/Dearborn.
Hey Robert, thanks for the update. Sounds like you're getting after it. One thing at a time. Brakes can be tricky at times. Are the rear shoes adjusted properly? And are the wheel cylinders good? I've seen those leak all the time and I've chased soft pedals only to discover that my shoes are not adjusted. Sometimes I overthink the small things. Hope all is well!
@@AlfsMustangGarage Rears totally rebuilt with all new parts & wheel cylinders. Re-adjusted shoes last weekand increased the drag. I heard stories of new calipers taking a couple of weeks to break In and start operating properly..........???? It does stop much better then It did before. Next on deck, shocks all the way around, rides like an old covered wagan. lol
I know you can use your old bracket when switching to a power brake setup. (just use the hole near the top). do you have to grind off the welded nuts on the bracket or can I leave them on? Better to know now, rather then pull it back out to do later. Thanks
Yes, you need to make sure the studs of the power booster are able to pass through with a slight amount of wiggle room so you don't bugger up the threads. They will then get nuts installed on them to secure from the inside of the car.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Gotcha. Thanks for the quick response.
What do you mean by power break assist? How does that set up work?
I also was wondering if you knew whether the break and clutch pedals on a 68 ranchero were the same as what is found in a 68 mustang? I was thinking about doing a conversion in my car and have access to a cheap 68 ranchero with a ford 4 speed.
The power brakes means there is a vacuum booster between the pedal and master cylinder. When you press the pedal it's easier to push because the vacuum assists in pulling your pedal down.
I wouldn't have an answer on the Ranchero. I'm afraid I don't get a bunch of those to become familiar with.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Ok cool, that makes sense. You would assume that they would be pretty universal back then, especially if they are both 302 vehicles but I am not 100 percent sure. Do you know of any books or websites that could help me with my research?
What did you do for the interior shifter install? Was there a video?
I'm afraid I didn't focus on a shifter video. I showed the removal of the automatic shifter in part 2 of the trans conversion but I never really touched on the install. Essentially I installed a stock 4 speed boot with a Scott Drake Bezel that is listed for 65-66 but fits 67 just fine.
Hello again, Quick question sir. Did you take out the front seat when you pulled the brake pedal etc? Hoping you didn't as my seat bolts under neath have mufflers blocking the access holes and the exhaust is welded. Thanks appreciate it.
I didn't remove the seat. Should have plenty of room to work.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Yaaaaaaaaaaaay!! Thanks Brother!!! The new pedal is the right ratio, I measured and it will be 6:1 and should help with the hard pedal with the new M/C and prop valve.
Nice, let me know how it goes!
@@AlfsMustangGarage 6:1 ratio not 7:1. and will do.
I have a diaphragm type clutch, not a three finger type. One of my clutch pedal insulators broke off last year and I put about 1000 miles a year on my 68 Mustang. Most of the time when I depress the clutch pedal I hear a squeaking sound. Just a little squeak when the pedal goes down and again when it comes back up. Probably coming from metal on metal contact. I’ve heard that the diaphragm clutch doesn’t require as much force as a three finger type. I really hate to tear apart everything and replace the insulators because of the above reasons, what’s your opinion? Leave it along or replace the insulators.
I don't think the clutch type matters when it comes to how much pressure the clutch pedal return spring places on the insulator. Those are meant to just protect the spring from digging into the clutch pedal and the other end is that bracket attached to the pedal support. It is the pressure of the assist spring that is being placed on those insulators and the clutch doesn't change that. I would replace them if you have the opportunity.
Donde puedo conseguir ese kit para mi Mustang 1967
Este no es un "kit". Sin embargo, hago la mayoría de mis compras de piezas individuales en National Parts Depot.
Did you remove the driver seat to make the install easier?
I don't think I did on this one. Probably should have, would have made my life much easier!
So I have 66 and the set up is similar except that bar you easily pulled out is weld in place on mine. I'm really struggling to remove the air vent to buy some space. Will it pull out towards the passenger side so that I can leave the vent? I wouldn't be doing any of this except that cotter pin on the brake snapped while I was driving and everything is out of place from me limping the car home (I know now I shouldn't have done that)
Which bar are you referring to? I'm not sure about towards the passenger side. One thing that I have found helpful is removing the instrument cluster just to get more access and visibility.
@@AlfsMustangGarage that big bar/pin that you pulled out from the the left side after removing the cotter pin. Mine is welded to the clutch so I can't pull it out. I tired taking the instrument cluster out only to find the previous owner had taped every thing together so tight that its impossible to pull it out more than an inch. I'm trying avoid project creep but I feel like this keeps getting bigger just trying to get this part out.
Wow that sounds frustrating. I'm not sure how to advise you from here if that is welded in. Ultimately you may have to remove the steering shaft out of your way, drop the whole unit out and grind the welds off on the bench.
If you wouldn't mind, can you give a ballpark of how much this whole conversion costs? I'd love to do this to my 68, but I need to know how many 7-11s I need to rob. 😆
I can give you some numbers in the morning. Do you want to know just parts?
@@AlfsMustangGarage I was thinking parts and labor. I know it'll all be dependent on what you get and who does it, but it'll at least give me an idea.
Absolutely. I'll pull the invoices from this job tomorrow and let you know. There was a lot of things I did on this car aside from the transmission but I'll separate it out for ya.
So after going through everything, the cost of every part on this job that was transmission conversion related was about $3900. Thats from the fluid in the trans, clutch linkage, pedals, shifter and also including the transmission which was bought and professionally rebuilt. Labor wise was about $1000 to remove the C4 and install everything else. Hope that gives you a good realistic number on what to expect if you were to pay someone to have this done.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Wow, honestly, that's a lot better than I was thinking it would be. Especially the labor part of it. Thank you for the information. Now move to Oklahoma so you can use my Mustang for content. :-)
Hey man where’d you get the toploader ?
I had this one built by the professionals at Andy's Classic Mustangs out of Spokane Washington andysclassicmustangs.com/
@@AlfsMustangGarage oh that’s perfect. I live in Spokane. Looking to swap out my 3 speed for a 4 speed
Oh nice! Ya give them a call. When they build those, they usually don't last long. They are getting harder and harder to come by. I bought that one when he started on it and he had multiple people trying to buy it too. I would get on his list and get him a deposite if your serious. And he is the best around. This transmission shifts like a dream.
Will this work on an inline 6 motor?
Yes. The pedals are the same for v8 and 6 cylinder cars.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Thank you for doing these videos, deff a life saver. :)
Amazing,
You're very welcome
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