Z-Bar & Clutch Linkage Installation - 1967 Ford Mustang Transmission Conversion
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- Опубликовано: 4 мар 2021
- Check out Alf's Mustang Parts on Amazon www.amazon.com/shops/mustangalf
Things I used in this video.
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Clutch Equalizer Bar Engine Mount Pivot amzn.to/3k23nqR
Frame-Side Clutch Equalizer Bar Mount amzn.to/3ALgHG7
Clutch Equalizer Bar to Release Lever ROD, Lower amzn.to/2PnTUwH
Clutch Equalizer Bar amzn.to/3riLZ1J
Clutch Pedal Rod Boot amzn.to/3qfI1Wx
Clutch Fork Release Lever Return Spring amzn.to/38b049Z
Clutch Fork Dust Boot amzn.to/3bZYsB7
GoPro Camera & accessories amzn.to/2NwysVu
Lighting set up amzn.to/3ph54R2
Basic mechanics tool set amzn.to/3ob7q2B
National Parts Depot List of parts
ROD, CLUTCH RELEASE LEVER, UPPER
Item # 7521-3A
ROD, CLUTCH RELEASE LEVER, LOWER
Item # 7521-8A
BAR ASSY, CLUTCH EQUALIZER
Item # 7528-2A
BRACKET, CLUTCH EQUALIZER SPRING
Item # 7542-1A
BRACKET, CLUTCH RELEASE EQUALIZER BAR
Item # 7507-1A
MOUNTING, CLUTCH EQUALIZER BAR, ENGINE SIDE
Item # 7A531-1A
MOUNTING KIT, RELEASE LEVER BRACKET
Item # 7507-3K
BUSHING KIT, CLUTCH BAR BRACKET
Item # 7528-1K
SPRING, CLUTCH LEVER RETRACTING, LOWER
Item # 7591-1A
SPRING, CLUTCH RELEASE LEVER ROD RETRACTING
Item # 7523-1
SEAL, CLUTCH PEDAL ROD, C6OZ-7A533-C
Item # 7A533-2
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Alf's Mustang Garage is not responsible for any mechanical or technical error that you may encounter when working on your own car. You are responsible for your own quality control and your own proper repairs.
Today at Alf's Mustang Garage we are continuing on our 1967 Ford Mustang transmission conversion from C4 automatic to 4-speed toploader. We have already removed the C4 and installed the flywheel, clutch assembly, and the toploader. Today we are installing the clutch equalizer bar and linkage which includes the upper clutch rod, lower clutch rod, equalizer bar and mounts, as well as the brackets and springs. 
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We are here to keep your classic Mustang on the road and out of your garage. Subscribe to the channel and click on the notification bell. ruclips.net/channel/UCZi2JnDfxDHwqJoxJzFnIlA
I have had my 65 mustang for years and finally have come to a spot in life where I can begin to teardown and rebuild. This Z bar linkage was the last thing I needed to figure out how to remove before pulling the 289. Thanks a bunch for the clear and concise videos, I have used multiple so far in my tear down!
Thanks Chad! That's awesome to hear that you're starting your project. I think we all have one of those "I'm going to get around to it one day" projects. Here is a better video of that linkage if you want to see something more geared up for your 65. ruclips.net/video/vwKSKRKLI3A/видео.html
Videos just do not get any better then this one. Great explanations, great camera work. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! Blessings from Michigan.
Thanks again Robert for taking the time to comment. It really does help keep me motivated to make these knowing people appreciate them!
Another super clear video. You really do a nice job of explaining everything, and your camera placement/shots are awesome. Thanks so much!
Thank you very much! I actually take quite a bit of time making sure it is being filmed well and it makes me feel good knowing people appreciate it.
Thank you again!!! I have a lot of things most of the way figured out but the details you share a so appreciated.
You're welcome. Glad I could help.
Great video! I'm doing that to my 66 Fastback right now. The clutch/brake pedal and that heavy ass spring was a real ball buster.
Oh ya the spring up on the pedal? Ya they are quite strong.
Great Video keep them coming
Thank you sir
Thank you sir
Great video! I'm rebuilding my 68 and converting from auto to 4 speed. This will help a ton. Thank you!
You're very welcome. Let me know if you need any of the parts to convert!
Love the new content and the gloves of coarse! 👌
Good thing because I have a wave of content from this 67 on it's way.
Tips on attaching upper z bar spring: Hook onto the firewall first, then attach a nylon string to the spring. pull with one hand while hooking the spring into the hole with another hand.
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for the video. It's going to help me a lot. I swapped the 4 speed in my '66 for a C4 back in 1978. Now I'm putting it back to original and couldn't remember exactly how to do it. I do still remember it was a bitch to change the frame bracket.
Oh nice! Glad I could help
THANK YOU I NEEDED THIS VIDEO
You're very welcome
Great video. Thanks
You're very welcome
You forgot the wool type seals on the z bar tube to keep the grease in the tube. They take up that slack you used that washer for.
That’s right! I noticed the same thing when he described the parts layout on the floor.
You make this look so easy lol
Lol it's easy when you can edit out your mistakes 😉
this is actually a lot of help I've been thinking of doing this conversion to my 1967 mustang. Also, I have 1969 mustang manual pedals do you know if they are the same as the 67? Thanks!
Right on, thanks! The 69 pedals are definitely different from 67 and wouldn't work I'm afraid.
Super! I am new to mustangs and looking forward to digging in. Do you have any videos on replacing '67 shifter linkage bushings
That's awesome! I actually don't. If you have an automatic, I have a carpet replacement video that gives you a good look at the shifter removal which is pretty much the main part of the shifter bushing replacement.
Internet gold!!!
Thank you!
Should there be a large washer than a very thick felt washer and then the bushing?
I love this channel. I have subscribed and hit thumbs up on your videos. I have question though. When this conversion is complete, does anyone have an issue with leg room when using the clutch? I am 6 ft tall, I have auto trans now, my knee nearly touches the steering wheel now. My concern is, if I do this conversion, I will bang my knee every time I shift.
Please comment, thank you.
Thank you. I am also six feet tall. I don't have issues but if your legs are longer, it may not be the same story. However, you can get seat track extenders for your seats to give you more leg room.
Does the upper spring bracket mount to the hand brake bolts/nuts. Looks like it in the ending of the video.
Yes at 13:53 in the video is when I talk about that.
Does a 65 with a 68302 zbar spring mount the same way?
Do they make any clutch linkage kits for a 200 6 cylinder with a 3 speed toploader?
Absolutely! I would just jump on National Parts Depot's website and narrow your search down by the year of your car and you should find everything you're looking for.
Hello Alf, thansk for such a cool videos. Any chance you can help me with my conversion , I have 68 coupe with 351 cleveland in it with FMX and want to switch it to 4spd toploader which i already bought. I might have a problem as i cant find where to mount a bolt for z bar which should be on the engine block. Also there will be couple more problems, have you ever run into something like that ? I mean havin 68 coupe with 351c and switching to toploader ? Thanks for any help ! Vasek
So I have never installed that setup before in a 68. I think the problem you're going to find is finding the right z-bar. 351 Cleveland did not come as an option till 1970 and the z-bar for a 70 will likely not work for a 68. If I were you, I would be looking into a cable clutch conversion. I did a brief Google search and looks like there are some options but some modification will have to be made for a toploader. Good luck and I'm interested in how it goes, so keep me posted.
@@AlfsMustangGarage well, it is another hit, but we wont give up 🤜 already got a Z bar but not sure about year, probably 68… ok ill let you know , thanks ..
Doing auto to manual conversion on my ‘68 coupe. Are the z bar to the frame bracket holes already there or predrilled? Or do I have to do some drilling
The holes with threaded nuts should already be there. They built all the cars that way. So if they got a manual transmission, they were there ready to go.
Should I consider any blue loctite on the bolts to the engine block and frame?
Probably not necessary. Those frame bolts aren't going anywhere. Would hate to see one not want to come out years from now. The engine one has a lock washer. It's not going anywhere either.
So if I want to adjust my clutch (starting to wear out but not quite there yet) I just need to adjust the threaded rod toward the firewall further into the clutch fork?
Ya usually you can just adjust it so there is no slack between the fork and rod and see if there is any life left in your disc.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Thank you! I am a Chevy guy but I ended up with a Mustang!
Oh right on. Same thing happens to me when I work on anything but ford 🤣
Friend, I have a problem and I would like you to help me with it. My Mustang is a '65 model with a 302 engine, T5 transmission, and a 94/04 bellhousing. Is it possible to keep the Z bar or the equalizer bar, and which components should I use?
Yes, you would just have to use a bell housing from an early mustang that uses mechanical linkage. I would search NPD for kits to buy.
You're missing washers and felt washers on ball ends. If not z bar well chapter on ends.
Is the Z-bar and clutch linkage parts different for a 428 4speed 1967 Mustang?
Yes the Z-bar is definitely different for a 428 car.
How many hours does it take to install a z-bar and linkage kit on a 67 Mustang.otherwords, what does the mechanic book say about how long it takes to do this change out
Probably about an hour or so for me. As far as book time goes, I don't have a mechanic book for times on old cars.
How would this work with a 351w? There's no thread in the block at all
So it sounds like you're using a 351 from a later model that doesn't have the provision for the manual z-bar. So what you need is the adapter that bolts up behind your bell housing. If you're working on a Mustang then, this should work.
www.npdlink.com/product/pivot-bracket-clutch-equalizer-bar/105999?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dz-bar%252Badapter%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D
Should there be felt washers on both ends?
Yes, it's kinda of optional but yes it doesn't hurt to have them.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I think the felt washers would have been the difference in the spacer you had to use.
Question. How similar of a process will this be with a 65 installing a 351w? Sorry im taking a shot in the dark not knowing if you know this info at all?
Just so I understand your question, you want to install a 351 Windsor in a 65?
Or are you just asking about the Z-bar linkage with a 351? The process will be very similar.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Hey man, thanks for the fast reply. You get a like on both videos bc of that. At 1:23 you mock up a mount, and that mount will work in the block of the 289, but will it work on a 351w at all. Also, is the geometry the same as the 65, or are there too many variables?
So to be 100% honest, I dont know if this setup will work on the 351. My guess is the answer is yes. The problem is 351s didn't come factory in 65. The geometry will likely be correct, however, you're going to fight clearance with your exhaust because it's such a tight fit anyways. I would have to do more research on that one to give you a confident answer.
@@AlfsMustangGarage to make things even more complicated I have a tci front suspension with shock towers cutout, so there should me more room. The frame rails are the same and that’s where you sandwiched the linkage. Or I could buy a hydraulic/master cylinder/integrated pedal to get rid of the linkages. Either way thanks for letting me pick your brain.
Hello! What headers are you using that don’t hit the z bar?
I honestly can't remember what these were on this car.
@@AlfsMustangGarage darn. Having a hard time finding headers that fit my 67 with a z bar
The last time I bought some to clear a z bar, I was able to narrow down the search through summit racing. It will usually state in the foot notes weather they will work or not.