Once again, Jo Daddy comes thru with his ingenious and clever problem-solving skills. With a chuckle and a smile, he is not afraid to show his mistakes either. Great video!
Most "Z" bars I have worked on have a plastic clam shell type collar that fits around the ball ends and inserts into Z bar shaft. Keeps the metal on metal from galling , also add grease fittings to the tube and add felt washers on the ends to keep water and debris out of the pivot points.
Hey Joe, thanks for sharing the part where you took down the size of the pivot ball, I just found out the ball I have that came off the bell housing was too big. So thanks again, Aloha
Add felt washers to keep the z-bar from walking and binding against the block preventing from depressing the clutch . Could be ugly if not able to get the car out of gear .
Thanks for sharing Joe, I need to install my linkage as soon as I get the engine in, and now I have an idea of how it works. ALoha brother have a great weekend
Is that a stock Chevrolet clutch pedal assembly? If so, it appears that the upper clutch pushrod, that is the rod that goes from the pedal to the bell crank, is reversed. The "J" should point away from the brake pedal (toward the center of the car). That would also center the rod in the firewall opening.
Does changing the length of that arm not change the travel distance of the bottom arm in which changes the travel of the clutch fork which in turn changes the travel distance of the release bearing which in turn effects the pressure plate release of the clutch? Maybe i am just over thinking this?
Hi barry grate show. The 56 is looking good 👍
Once again, Jo Daddy comes thru with his ingenious and clever problem-solving skills. With a chuckle and a smile, he is not afraid to show his mistakes either. Great video!
hi barry good show 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😄
The 56 looking great 👍
Problem Solving 101. Lectured by Prof. Jo Daddy
Great fabrication and video 👍🏻as always!!!
Good show .
Nice Lathe!!
Most "Z" bars I have worked on have a plastic clam shell type collar that fits around the ball ends and inserts into Z bar shaft. Keeps the metal on metal from galling , also add grease fittings to the tube and add felt washers on the ends to keep water and debris out of the pivot points.
I like your solution to the problem by using what you have.
Hey Joe, thanks for sharing the part where you took down the size of the pivot ball, I just found out the ball I have that came off the bell housing was too big. So thanks again, Aloha
Looks like you could have used your 4" grinder blade wrench for your Z bar extension.
Great series. Lots of info.
Add felt washers to keep the z-bar from walking and binding against the block preventing from depressing the clutch . Could be ugly if not able to get the car out of gear .
Thanks for sharing Joe, I need to install my linkage as soon as I get the engine in, and now I have an idea of how it works. ALoha brother have a great weekend
Great work!
Nice job
Thanks for the videos and thanks for your time
Nice! Creative thinking and fabrication! What it takes to make it work!
Awesome job 👏 👍
I’ve used 67-72 chevy c 10 6 cylinder bell cranks with some mods
👍👍
Is that a stock Chevrolet clutch pedal assembly? If so, it appears that the upper clutch pushrod, that is the rod that goes from the pedal to the bell crank, is reversed. The "J" should point away from the brake pedal (toward the center of the car). That would also center the rod in the firewall opening.
slot the bolt hole to outside
Does changing the length of that arm not change the travel distance of the bottom arm in which changes the travel of the clutch fork which in turn changes the travel distance of the release bearing which in turn effects the pressure plate release of the clutch? Maybe i am just over thinking this?
It does change the range of the arm for sure. It likely won’t hurt anything in this case.
Btw Joe what clutch fork did you use
I’m not sure. The owner provided one. It can be seen in the part 9.
bend arm