yeasterday I dumped my TP3 into a water bucket. I pluged out the battery before removing it from the water. It survived 100% Thank you Joshua for your tips 11:06
I'd like to see a video where you test out "Lipo fire safe bags". I have a tough time believing any are good enough to be worth spending money on them.
@@ironic2468 when I watched that video I was thinking that an ammo can with Fireproof sheetrock inside would be the best option of keeping the flames contained but maybe the ammo can itself would do a good enough job. Either one seems better than one of those battery bags lol
@@SkeezyFPV Closing the ammo can turns it into a bomb. an open can still has flames coming out up to 6 feet in the air. Ammo cans also transfer the heat of the fire into what ever they are sitting on, so your counter or table still ends up ruined. Safest charging locations indoors is inside your oven, or in a fireplace. non-glass top stove with a good vent hood would be third place.
Distilled water flush is great advice. Years ago, I flew a marine life observation drone that landed and floated on the ocean. It required a distilled water flush after each flight followed by a WD-40 spray rinse of the motors. Flushing with (distilled) water is counterintuitive but apparently worked for this specific project.
Not really counterintuitive. Distilled water actual does not conduct electricity. It's the minerals in the water such as salt that makes it conductive. But distilled water is not really something most people have at home :-) fresh water from the tap followed by something else works great. As long as the battery is disconnected it doesn't matter what you rinse with. All that matters is that no residue is left on the components when you do plug in the battery next time. (Unless it was fried before you picked it up... But then nothing's really matters ;-)
On hobby drones I would avoid spraying the motors with WD-40. The bearings are usually shielded, not sealed, so WD-40 will get right in there and break down the lubricant. Though it may be a good idea to lubricate the bearings after they take a swim anyway.
I've done this on float planes I've flipped in the lake. Didn't revive them all but most were okay. Works magic on ESCs. Now my float planes smell like a mechanic's shop.
I've been using this stuff for years. All of my builds electronics get coated. I've flown in downpours, crashed into wet grass, puddles, snow and once in a pool. Never had any failures due to water damage. I take a heat gun to it to loosen the cap when it gets stuck to the bottle.
We had spray bottles at work but instead of spraying we put a cotton swab (with hollow plastic shaft) in the nozzle and they you could use it to spread it more accurately.
My first build brushless quadcopter was plopped into a pond on flight #3, as I was unaware of ghostbranches... Spent 5 minutes underwater. Got it out, dried it for a few days. No damage. No coating. More luck than anything else.
I had a 16 x 16 iflight pinned stack in a small 2.5 inch that I recently retrieved from a tall tree after being stuck for over 2 years. Surprisingly everything still works fine. Except for the one motor bell that showed my bb gun aim was dead on the money at least once! It had been 90 degrees and better with no rain for a few days prior to the rescue. I have just put the stack in a Darwin fpv tiny ape frame and flown for a few weeks now with no issues at all.
Make sure after it tacks up a little bit if you apply it with connectors plugged in and USB plugged in, unplug them before they dry, or they may be permanently plugged.......😁👍🏼
I fly in Minnesota. Sun, rain, and snow....lots of snow. Everyone of my drones gets conformal(some even get bagged as well with a deep design kit) awesome info here.
I personally have had a Phantom 4 Pro that went swimming in the deep blue ocean on a Natgeo Sharkweek shoot (luckily we had an underwater cameraman, suited up, that immediately free dived down 12m and saved it - what a legend!!) We were still out at sea on the zodiac for a good few hours. As soon as we returned to basecamp, I took my Phantom apart, unscrewed everything and dunked and rinsed my drone in a tub of freshwater for a good 10 minutes, in an effort to get all the salt off the electronics. Afterwards I let all these components in the sun for 2 days, even put it in a box full of rice for another day. After that I sprayed all the electronics with electronic contact cleaner, a product called “mr mckenic”. My drone survived, except the 4k camera, and I fly my drone to this day! (After replacing the camera)! Needless to say, I had no silicon conformal coating on the electronics, prior to the incident. The only other part that had to be replaced was the GPS unit, as expected, as this unit is located in the top part of the shell of the Phantom, and this is the only place I did not open. Of course, the camera and gimbal is the expensive part of the drone, but it was inevitable to lose this part of the drone, sensor got damaged. But still saved me quite a bit of money. Good practice is to spray electronic contact cleaner on your drone parts, if you don’t plan on covering it with conformal coating 🤙
JB, I have the HS 170 predator small little drone fell in a trashcan full of dirty water I couldn’t find the drone for about 20 minutes finally seen lights flashing at the bottom of a trashcan full of water took the drone out unplugged it dried it with a hairdryer an plugged it back in and flew it. then I had a drone same one laying on some wet grass it was wet and it shorted out, figure that one out!
13:10 I go Big Fat Greek /w the Windex, Ethel Alcohol dries faster. Just be aware that there is a polishing compound in Windex, but I've never had a problem with it being conductive... It becomes some dust to brush off b4 applying a coating.
Electronics technician in a previous carrier. Never heard of the unplug it before removing it from the water theory. But I suppose I can maybe kinda see some validity to it. Definitely recommend removing the battery ASAP! Also isopropyl alcohol is one of the best tools for removing water from electronics. And air! A little heat doesn’t hurt either.
I’ve had personal experiences and come to this conclusion years before this video. My theory behind it was different though. I had the idea that the much quicker rate that water cools than air aids in keeping individual chips, caps and resistors from frying. I’ve pulled several drones out of water after unplugging the battery submerged and have had good results
I’ve also had the experience of components frying right in front of my eyes pulling them out of the water while plugged in. That’s what first gave me the idea
I was told to unplug it under water because the motors can spin up when you pull it out of the water, which can be really dangerous on bigger quads. I've seen it happen myself to a friend's quad he crashed into water, went to pull it out and a motor went full throttle. What happens is water can get into the plug between the FC and Esc and short the motor signal wires to vcc, causing the esc to spin the motors.
thank you for this. I was expecting it as an out take of the mobeetle review. but you went a step further and made a great video about water resistance prep. I have recently started to coat all my quads. carefully
AWESOME video! BTW, did you tested the camera? One of my whoops feel into the pool, then water got into the camera and chlorine destroyed the sensor when it dried! 😢
@@TomDenny-s7n That sounds a bit bulky and wasteful of electricity compared to something could be just a little thingy thing switches to infinite resistivity when wet but otherwise just acts like a a wire under normal circunstances; a smoke stopper is not something you would be flying with, specially with smaller drones...
Talking to a local store here in Norway, they said acrylic solution is better than silicon when it comes to water resistance. Now, I would think the silicon solution is preferred due to the heat resistant properties that is greater than the acrylic solution? From what I've read and understand based on the local store here, the silicon solution will handle 200C and the acrylic solution resists up to 125C.
I conformal coated my 5" kwads and have dunked em in ponds and streams and pulled em out... shook em out... New batt and in the air they went.... They still fly today💪💪💪💪
man I needed this video on that supercar rally in Florida, my crown hd 6s went down in a canal beside our resort... the jetski instructor found it 8hrs later but it was dead... thanks Joshua for all your info
The best way to waterproofing the drone is B7000 glue! glue can pour contacts and then remove without residue with tweezers. B7000 can be completely removed without solvent by winding on tweezers. Where I live long winter and rainy spring and autumn so i know what i'm talking about. I filled the boot button and exposed connectors with B7000 glue, and then easily removed them when I needed them in a new build. b7000 can clog the UFL antenna connection without fear of losing connection. I don't like MG Chemicals because it leaves a lot of dirt and is very difficult to remove with a solvent. And also it is very fluid and floods the places that I try to avoid. In this old video, a guy shows how easy it is to apply and remove B7000 glue with tweezers from a flight controller: ruclips.net/video/qx-ZT6Vo6xg/видео.html And this glue is very cheap and sold everywhere, as it is very popular for gluing smartphone screens
Well technically he did not fly it into water. The esc where off so the potential to damage the esc was zero. anything else was close to zero. If the motors had full power that would been a completely different thing. Also the low voltage in a whoop is different from a 6s setup. (Probably would have survived but still not a real test)... Also as fresh water is usually not that bad. Saltwater on the other hand will fry anything not super protected.
Or because it is a Pool it has (I assume) Chemicals in order to keep it as clear as that is. which ever chems that JB uses for his pool are most likely going to increase the conductivity of the water. Water in and of itself is not conductive. Water with dissolved and or suspended solids is conductive. Distilled/pure water has very high resistance compared to say pool water with dissolved chems in.
The BAROMETER CHIP. This measures barometric pressure and therefore altitude. It has a very tiny hole on top so it's open to air pressure. You want to be sure you do not put conformal coating over that hole. If you do the flight controller will detect that it's at a CONSTANT altitude no matter what the actual altitude is.
I keep electrical tape wrapped around the point where the cap and the bottle meet and it helps make it easier to remove the cap. I crashed into a fountain at an office park in 2019 and I’ve been conformal coating ever since.
Hey Joshua, Long story short, put my non waterproofed Tinyhawk 2 in my pool. I didn't unplug it underwater, and I did use rice for like 3 days. Now when I arm only 3 motors turn and 1 is intermittent. When I raise the throttle, it goes to full throttle and doesn't go down when I go to 0 throttle. I'm assuming the AIO board was damaged. Would that be a good assessment? Probably need a new AIO board. Dang it!! I wish I had seen this video 2 months ago!😞
I have found alcohol not really great at Removing within buttons. I used a conformal coating stripper. Don't ask how I know. What about drone dry it doesn't have the problem of getting it in the ports. Just $$$$
how do quads that go underwater work? I've seen them before following people jumping in water and flying back out..... like how?? wouldn't the motors be a problem at that point?
I use B-7000 glue to waterproof my quads. Have flown in fullpower rain totally fine. Heard conformal coating gets micro-cracks after some cooling/heating cycles + high vibration so it needs maintenance once in a while. B-7000 remains elastic like silicone and much easier to apply and control so that it don’t get in usb ports. In fact i apply it on usb ports with a help of gravity so it hardens like a plug. If I need to use it - just tear it off and reapply it back after to seal and preserve these parts as well. So easy to tear it off as well. You just take one part on tweezers and wind on itself. The only downside is - It has little worse thermal conductivity, but if you fly and not wait on a bench for 5 minutes its totally fine. Is there someone who uses B-7000 as well, or any other substance which you found better in your application? Are there someone using conformal without reapply more than 6 month with no issues in heavy rain?
I wouldn't recommend coating with things plugged in - I did an ESC plug like that and I could never get it out again, I broke the wings off the plug trying to get it out. I use Kapton tape to mask off anything I don't want coated and then I spray that sucker. Also (I don't know if this only affects the spray-on type) the solvent seems to soften any silicone items such as wire insulation and gummies. I'd probably remove the gummies and try not to get too much on the wires.
The "magnetic nature of motion" has nothing to do with brushless motors being waterproof. The copper windings on the inside are coated in enamel and the wires leading out are sealed. Honestly not even sure what "magnetic nature of motion" is supposed to mean in this context.
I once dropped my 5'' quad into saltwater due to some weird rxloss. It was approx. ankle deep and full of seaweed, so the quad plopped into that mess right to the upper deck. The battery terminals and the ESC power traces had likely shorted out, everything started boiling and fuming, and as a cherry on top the battery caught on fire. While in water. Yeah. I yanked it out having wrapped my hands in my shirt, but the ESC board has been ruined - some power traces eaten clean off the surface. Silicone insulation on some motor wires had puffed up, cracked and turned brittle, and the carbon fiber near the power terminals had visible pitting. To sum up, I had to replace the ESC board, rewire all motors (thankfully the coils themselves were not corroded) and buy a new action camera. That was enough of a lesson to lacquer-coat the boards.
MG Silicon Conformal - worked for me: ruclips.net/video/GYVIpIQGcXA/видео.html . Took this quad home, hosed it off, let it dry a day or two and then flew a few packs through it. I must have cleaned the camera lens. Note: the battery popped off on the crash, might have been another story if the battery stayed on as the quad was under water for a good couple of hours before I managed to find it and recover it. The spray on version is far less cost efficient - I bought the spray on for my first try, and have bought the bottle ever since.
This vid couldn't have came at a better time lmao I fly around my back yard and did so with COMPLETE CONFIDENCE....until the pool went up....lol I am scared to death to fly around water lol oddly enough my quad fail safed in the exact spot where the pool is located before it went up and that added to the anxiety of flying in the yard lol have some of the worry free so I'm going to try it since I have it already 😁 and apply it to my new mobula7 1s elrs whenever I can get another one😒 this was an awesome review JB and I take my hat off to you for doing it since it is extremely hard to find a mobeetle right about now lol 👍🏽✌🏽oh and I almost forgot PLEASE TRY THE MOBULA7 1S ELRS IT IS AWESOME but make sure your running the new betaflight lol I bricked my gyro however I do think I just had a bad FC because I never flashed anything to it....👍🏽
I've never used conformal or any waterproofing coating, and my multiple 5inch quads have been crashed in water, deep puddles, drains.. multiple times over the years. I just clean if there's mud, and nothing dies. Even my microwhoops dunked in a pool. Just let it dry for a day, that's it. And next week, it's dunked again. Im actually led to believe coating is not necessary. In the long term also, my quads are fine. Am I wrong?
I am brand new to FPV. I've seen nearly all of your videos over the past 5 weeks. I spent a lot of that time deciding what platform I want to buy, what radio I want to buy, what I want in my tool kit, etc. Last Friday my controller arrived, my brand new RadioMaster Boxer and dang! Believe me when I say it was well worth the investment as my first (hopefully only) controller. I've clocked maybe 4 hours in the simulator and am on lesson 3 of your "how to fly FPV playlist". I don't think I'll be getting a drone until black Friday or boxing day, and I have my eye on the Mobula 6 pro 2024. I am from Canada and I intend on getting my sRPAS Basic licence so I can't graduate to a 5" 6s drone one day. For now, I grind the sim. My free time is limited as I am a full time electrician and a new father of 2 but I'm seeing noticeable progress on each flight. I'm giddy with anticipation of being able to move my drone around while maintaining altitude and speed, and to get it to go exactly where I want, with limited slip through corners and little to no over corrections. Once I'm there... I'll get my first drone... For now. I grind. Thank you for coming to my Ted talk TLDR: thank you for giving me direction on my new hobby, can't wait to see what the future holds. Sim. Sim. Sim.
Hey Joshua, I have this Mobeetle6 as well! I'm curious of the ECU temperatures with the coating on. Supposedly if the VTX is running at 400mW, it will lower the power depending on the temperature of the unit. I feel like this coating would keep it from dispersing heat like it should. Just curious! Thanks for the video!
He should have mentioned the motors. He should have flown it, not just armed it. And if it's waterproofed, why not just immediately plug in a battery and try flying right away? He could have just did a video about washing off and drying a drone, and skipped the waterproofing altogether. I watched a guy fly his coated 5" UNDER WATER, and back out again, just to show how waterproof it was. This is very underwhelming. How about a proper waterproofing video?
Just rescued a 5” from a pond after 2 weeks under water, no waterproof coating applied. Result 1 seized motor, ESC fried. Flight controller, 3 motors, caddy unit and ELRS, were working. Battery was screwed. The rule here is the ESC Diodes cut power first to the rest of the drone.
if the battery is still connected the water will get into the connection and short things out. Conformal ain't gonna help that. best way to get water out of electronics is rince with isopropanol
So funny, this video was released just a few hours after I landed my acrobee65 in the garden pond. No conformal coating, did not unplug the battery under water but rinsed the pcb with Flux remover fluid and dried it in the sun. Got lucky, it still flies like a charm
I have a betafpv meteor 65 that sunk into a washer machine full of dirt water for about 8 minutes, and it survived, is still fully working. I didn't believe when I tested because it's so freaking insane, but is very true...lol
Just bought the Tinyhawk lll. In trying to get the flip over mode to work I have created a wobble in the drones hover. I think it happened because I used both joy sticks in one of my attempts. Any to get rid of it? Thanks.
My wife was in the same room as me when I watched this video and all she heard was "conformal coating", "" conformal coating", e.t.c. She was kind of mocking me for days by randomly chucking a "conformal coating" or two whilst talking for a few days. You did manage to say the now unmentionble words forty three times in this video. About forty of them coming in the first half.
Clear nail polish. works well, comes off easily with alcohol and saves you from anything short of full submersion. For the amount of work most people do to a quad on an ongoing basis, a coating that is 'difficult' is really not so good. Having said that, if you're over water then maybe go all-in with the good stuff.
"when your done completing the joint, just dab a little bit more" J. Bardwell @8:17
I just go straight to the dab 😂
yeasterday I dumped my TP3 into a water bucket. I pluged out the battery before removing it from the water. It survived 100%
Thank you Joshua for your tips 11:06
I'd like to see a video where you test out "Lipo fire safe bags". I have a tough time believing any are good enough to be worth spending money on them.
They're not, there's a lot of videos online of them just melting and letting the flames out. Get an ammo box or batsafe or smth.
@@ironic2468 when I watched that video I was thinking that an ammo can with Fireproof sheetrock inside would be the best option of keeping the flames contained but maybe the ammo can itself would do a good enough job. Either one seems better than one of those battery bags lol
I second this motion!
@@SkeezyFPV Closing the ammo can turns it into a bomb. an open can still has flames coming out up to 6 feet in the air. Ammo cans also transfer the heat of the fire into what ever they are sitting on, so your counter or table still ends up ruined.
Safest charging locations indoors is inside your oven, or in a fireplace. non-glass top stove with a good vent hood would be third place.
buy a small toolbox, works way better. helps if you place it on bricks instead of hardwood floor.
Distilled water flush is great advice. Years ago, I flew a marine life observation drone that landed and floated on the ocean. It required a distilled water flush after each flight followed by a WD-40 spray rinse of the motors. Flushing with (distilled) water is counterintuitive but apparently worked for this specific project.
Not really counterintuitive. Distilled water actual does not conduct electricity. It's the minerals in the water such as salt that makes it conductive. But distilled water is not really something most people have at home :-) fresh water from the tap followed by something else works great. As long as the battery is disconnected it doesn't matter what you rinse with. All that matters is that no residue is left on the components when you do plug in the battery next time. (Unless it was fried before you picked it up... But then nothing's really matters ;-)
On hobby drones I would avoid spraying the motors with WD-40. The bearings are usually shielded, not sealed, so WD-40 will get right in there and break down the lubricant. Though it may be a good idea to lubricate the bearings after they take a swim anyway.
MAF sensor cleaner works great for spraying out motors.
I've done this on float planes I've flipped in the lake. Didn't revive them all but most were okay. Works magic on ESCs. Now my float planes smell like a mechanic's shop.
Is there any chance to save a drone that get into a water without any comformacouting done?
Wet grass took out 1 of my esc's on my 4 in 1 about a week and a half ago. New speedybee setup is performing nicely though!
I've been using this stuff for years. All of my builds electronics get coated. I've flown in downpours, crashed into wet grass, puddles, snow and once in a pool. Never had any failures due to water damage. I take a heat gun to it to loosen the cap when it gets stuck to the bottle.
Try flying while it's actively snowing. Video gets worse but it's so fun.
We had spray bottles at work but instead of spraying we put a cotton swab (with hollow plastic shaft) in the nozzle and they you could use it to spread it more accurately.
My first build brushless quadcopter was plopped into a pond on flight #3, as I was unaware of ghostbranches... Spent 5 minutes underwater. Got it out, dried it for a few days. No damage. No coating. More luck than anything else.
I had a 16 x 16 iflight pinned stack in a small 2.5 inch that I recently retrieved from a tall tree after being stuck for over 2 years. Surprisingly everything still works fine. Except for the one motor bell that showed my bb gun aim was dead on the money at least once! It had been 90 degrees and better with no rain for a few days prior to the rescue. I have just put the stack in a Darwin fpv tiny ape frame and flown for a few weeks now with no issues at all.
Make sure after it tacks up a little bit if you apply it with connectors plugged in and USB plugged in, unplug them before they dry, or they may be permanently plugged.......😁👍🏼
I fly in Minnesota. Sun, rain, and snow....lots of snow. Everyone of my drones gets conformal(some even get bagged as well with a deep design kit) awesome info here.
I personally have had a Phantom 4 Pro that went swimming in the deep blue ocean on a Natgeo Sharkweek shoot (luckily we had an underwater cameraman, suited up, that immediately free dived down 12m and saved it - what a legend!!)
We were still out at sea on the zodiac for a good few hours. As soon as we returned to basecamp, I took my Phantom apart, unscrewed everything and dunked and rinsed my drone in a tub of freshwater for a good 10 minutes, in an effort to get all the salt off the electronics. Afterwards I let all these components in the sun for 2 days, even put it in a box full of rice for another day. After that I sprayed all the electronics with electronic contact cleaner, a product called “mr mckenic”. My drone survived, except the 4k camera, and I fly my drone to this day! (After replacing the camera)! Needless to say, I had no silicon conformal coating on the electronics, prior to the incident. The only other part that had to be replaced was the GPS unit, as expected, as this unit is located in the top part of the shell of the Phantom, and this is the only place I did not open. Of course, the camera and gimbal is the expensive part of the drone, but it was inevitable to lose this part of the drone, sensor got damaged. But still saved me quite a bit of money. Good practice is to spray electronic contact cleaner on your drone parts, if you don’t plan on covering it with conformal coating 🤙
I wish I was you!
I use spray conformal coating! You just have to be careful!
JB, I have the HS 170 predator small little drone fell in a trashcan full of dirty water I couldn’t find the drone for about 20 minutes finally seen lights flashing at the bottom of a trashcan full of water took the drone out unplugged it dried it with a hairdryer an plugged it back in and flew it. then I had a drone same one laying on some wet grass it was wet and it shorted out, figure that one out!
Hahahaha JB, that intro. You crack me up!!!!
13:10 I go Big Fat Greek /w the Windex, Ethel Alcohol dries faster. Just be aware that there is a polishing compound in Windex, but I've never had a problem with it being conductive... It becomes some dust to brush off b4 applying a coating.
Still works....like 👍
Got to admire a guy that admits he's faults... great video
Electronics technician in a previous carrier.
Never heard of the unplug it before removing it from the water theory. But I suppose I can maybe kinda see some validity to it.
Definitely recommend removing the battery ASAP!
Also isopropyl alcohol is one of the best tools for removing water from electronics. And air! A little heat doesn’t hurt either.
I’ve had personal experiences and come to this conclusion years before this video. My theory behind it was different though. I had the idea that the much quicker rate that water cools than air aids in keeping individual chips, caps and resistors from frying. I’ve pulled several drones out of water after unplugging the battery submerged and have had good results
I’ve also had the experience of components frying right in front of my eyes pulling them out of the water while plugged in. That’s what first gave me the idea
I was told to unplug it under water because the motors can spin up when you pull it out of the water, which can be really dangerous on bigger quads. I've seen it happen myself to a friend's quad he crashed into water, went to pull it out and a motor went full throttle. What happens is water can get into the plug between the FC and Esc and short the motor signal wires to vcc, causing the esc to spin the motors.
thank you for this. I was expecting it as an out take of the mobeetle review. but you went a step further and made a great video about water resistance prep. I have recently started to coat all my quads. carefully
That penguin ankle tattoo though...
So here's a crazy question... I've got a boatload of Flex Seal left over from a shower project. Would that stuff work?
I guess try it and let us know!
AWESOME video! BTW, did you tested the camera? One of my whoops feel into the pool, then water got into the camera and chlorine destroyed the sensor when it dried! 😢
I wonder if there could be some sort of "wetness-fuse" that will immediately cut battery current if it gets wet...
Thats basically just a smoke stopper
@@TomDenny-s7n That sounds a bit bulky and wasteful of electricity compared to something could be just a little thingy thing switches to infinite resistivity when wet but otherwise just acts like a a wire under normal circunstances; a smoke stopper is not something you would be flying with, specially with smaller drones...
7:40 Sunlight works great
Talking to a local store here in Norway, they said acrylic solution is better than silicon when it comes to water resistance.
Now, I would think the silicon solution is preferred due to the heat resistant properties that is greater than the acrylic solution?
From what I've read and understand based on the local store here, the silicon solution will handle 200C and the acrylic solution resists up to 125C.
That water solution might help with my mobeetle6 board overheating and disabling the gyro
Watching this while my drone is leaned up against a dehumidifier
I conformal coated my 5" kwads and have dunked em in ponds and streams and pulled em out... shook em out... New batt and in the air they went.... They still fly today💪💪💪💪
man I needed this video on that supercar rally in Florida, my crown hd 6s went down in a canal beside our resort... the jetski instructor found it 8hrs later but it was dead... thanks Joshua for all your info
The best way to waterproofing the drone is B7000 glue! glue can pour contacts and then remove without residue with tweezers. B7000 can be completely removed without solvent by winding on tweezers. Where I live long winter and rainy spring and autumn so i know what i'm talking about.
I filled the boot button and exposed connectors with B7000 glue, and then easily removed them when I needed them in a new build. b7000 can clog the UFL antenna connection without fear of losing connection.
I don't like MG Chemicals because it leaves a lot of dirt and is very difficult to remove with a solvent. And also it is very fluid and floods the places that I try to avoid.
In this old video, a guy shows how easy it is to apply and remove B7000 glue with tweezers from a flight controller: ruclips.net/video/qx-ZT6Vo6xg/видео.html
And this glue is very cheap and sold everywhere, as it is very popular for gluing smartphone screens
thanks for the tip!
I'm in UK .. here are all weekends raining 😂😂😂 2023 is so far very wet
Why don't manufacturers apply this to their drones?
Well technically he did not fly it into water. The esc where off so the potential to damage the esc was zero. anything else was close to zero. If the motors had full power that would been a completely different thing. Also the low voltage in a whoop is different from a 6s setup. (Probably would have survived but still not a real test)... Also as fresh water is usually not that bad. Saltwater on the other hand will fry anything not super protected.
Or because it is a Pool it has (I assume) Chemicals in order to keep it as clear as that is. which ever chems that JB uses for his pool are most likely going to increase the conductivity of the water. Water in and of itself is not conductive. Water with dissolved and or suspended solids is conductive. Distilled/pure water has very high resistance compared to say pool water with dissolved chems in.
I love that your fan has an xt60 connector
The BAROMETER CHIP. This measures barometric pressure and therefore altitude. It has a very tiny hole on top so it's open to air pressure. You want to be sure you do not put conformal coating over that hole. If you do the flight controller will detect that it's at a CONSTANT altitude no matter what the actual altitude is.
One thing you missed (probably obvious to you but may not be to new pilots): *Don't conformal coat the motors.* They're already waterproof.
Remember your dru drone shake n bake review ?
I keep electrical tape wrapped around the point where the cap and the bottle meet and it helps make it easier to remove the cap. I crashed into a fountain at an office park in 2019 and I’ve been conformal coating ever since.
Hmm thanks for the tips!
Priceless knowledge, especially these days! Happy drying 😁
Hey Joshua, Long story short, put my non waterproofed Tinyhawk 2 in my pool. I didn't unplug it underwater, and I did use rice for like 3 days. Now when I arm only 3 motors turn and 1 is intermittent. When I raise the throttle, it goes to full throttle and doesn't go down when I go to 0 throttle. I'm assuming the AIO board was damaged. Would that be a good assessment? Probably need a new AIO board. Dang it!! I wish I had seen this video 2 months ago!😞
I have found alcohol not really great at Removing within buttons. I used a conformal coating stripper. Don't ask how I know. What about drone dry it doesn't have the problem of getting it in the ports. Just $$$$
how do quads that go underwater work? I've seen them before following people jumping in water and flying back out..... like how?? wouldn't the motors be a problem at that point?
"paint-on spray" is a decent band name
Didn’t ever think about that….
I thought you said to use alcohol to remove the coating. Then you said to clean it with alcohol?
Interesting as always. Did the camera still work?
Yep! 100%.
I use B-7000 glue to waterproof my quads. Have flown in fullpower rain totally fine.
Heard conformal coating gets micro-cracks after some cooling/heating cycles + high vibration so it needs maintenance once in a while.
B-7000 remains elastic like silicone and much easier to apply and control so that it don’t get in usb ports.
In fact i apply it on usb ports with a help of gravity so it hardens like a plug. If I need to use it - just tear it off and reapply it back after to seal and preserve these parts as well.
So easy to tear it off as well. You just take one part on tweezers and wind on itself.
The only downside is - It has little worse thermal conductivity, but if you fly and not wait on a bench for 5 minutes its totally fine.
Is there someone who uses B-7000 as well, or any other substance which you found better in your application? Are there someone using conformal without reapply more than 6 month with no issues in heavy rain?
I like it 👌
I personally use nail polish top coat. After two crash in to sea quad still working well
I wouldn't recommend coating with things plugged in - I did an ESC plug like that and I could never get it out again, I broke the wings off the plug trying to get it out. I use Kapton tape to mask off anything I don't want coated and then I spray that sucker. Also (I don't know if this only affects the spray-on type) the solvent seems to soften any silicone items such as wire insulation and gummies. I'd probably remove the gummies and try not to get too much on the wires.
I just want to say that this channel is truly so fantastic.
Try using your underr desk light to see conformal coating. It might be blue/purple enough to see the coating
I conformal coat everything Joshua.You never know when you're going to crash in water or dog poo.🍻😗
Worth to mention, that motors don't need to be covered with coating because of magnetic nature of motion. Brushless motors are waterproofed by design.
Strange way to say the wires are enamel coated
The "magnetic nature of motion" has nothing to do with brushless motors being waterproof. The copper windings on the inside are coated in enamel and the wires leading out are sealed. Honestly not even sure what "magnetic nature of motion" is supposed to mean in this context.
@@psyman9780 probably that conductivity isn’t required because the motor functions through electro-magnetic created motion. Just a guess…
Does anyone know the difference between MG chemical 422c and 422b coating. Joshua used the 422b but 422c is all I can find in a small bottle.
Did you find the answer to your question about 422b versus 422c?
Wish I could give more than one like!
I know this is a tale as old as time, but in case anyone doesn't know, if you crash in water unplug your quad before you take it out of the water
Rubber dust caps over the ports
Do you need to put conformal coating under the FC and ESC or only on top of it ?
Did you find the answer to your question? I'm also wondering if I have to coat both sides
@@OranJuno yes I found out that need to !
hi, new to FPV Drones. Can I use Acrylic Conformal Coating for this?. Thanks
Isopropyl alcohol won't remove conformal coating. Acetone is what you need to use (aka nail polish remover)
or gunwash/thinner
I always waterproof regardless!
Where is the rotor riot pool cover?
I once dropped my 5'' quad into saltwater due to some weird rxloss. It was approx. ankle deep and full of seaweed, so the quad plopped into that mess right to the upper deck. The battery terminals and the ESC power traces had likely shorted out, everything started boiling and fuming, and as a cherry on top the battery caught on fire. While in water. Yeah. I yanked it out having wrapped my hands in my shirt, but the ESC board has been ruined - some power traces eaten clean off the surface. Silicone insulation on some motor wires had puffed up, cracked and turned brittle, and the carbon fiber near the power terminals had visible pitting.
To sum up, I had to replace the ESC board, rewire all motors (thankfully the coils themselves were not corroded) and buy a new action camera. That was enough of a lesson to lacquer-coat the boards.
Living in a desert has never been so convenient
Could i drape a plastic bag over the main body on my drone to fly it in the snow
Flopped my tinyhawk into a fountain. Pulled it out, shook as much water out of it as I could and kept flying 😂
Must be nice having so many quads given you can chuck em in pools!
That's dumb. It's my job to spend my own money doing these tests. When I crashed in the pool, I bought the replacement out of my own money.
Is it still working?
Hey,
Just have a little question, do we follow the same protocol if we didn’t thermalcoated it?
Thanks a lot for All those infos!!
what about lipo/li-ion battery packs ? can they be damaged by water ?
MG Silicon Conformal - worked for me: ruclips.net/video/GYVIpIQGcXA/видео.html . Took this quad home, hosed it off, let it dry a day or two and then flew a few packs through it. I must have cleaned the camera lens.
Note: the battery popped off on the crash, might have been another story if the battery stayed on as the quad was under water for a good couple of hours before I managed to find it and recover it.
The spray on version is far less cost efficient - I bought the spray on for my first try, and have bought the bottle ever since.
My hope was to Dive the Quad into water and start out of the water. How Quad( submarine/Quadmarine) handle unser Water and Start to fly in the air
This vid couldn't have came at a better time lmao I fly around my back yard and did so with COMPLETE CONFIDENCE....until the pool went up....lol I am scared to death to fly around water lol oddly enough my quad fail safed in the exact spot where the pool is located before it went up and that added to the anxiety of flying in the yard lol have some of the worry free so I'm going to try it since I have it already 😁 and apply it to my new mobula7 1s elrs whenever I can get another one😒 this was an awesome review JB and I take my hat off to you for doing it since it is extremely hard to find a mobeetle right about now lol 👍🏽✌🏽oh and I almost forgot PLEASE TRY THE MOBULA7 1S ELRS IT IS AWESOME but make sure your running the new betaflight lol I bricked my gyro however I do think I just had a bad FC because I never flashed anything to it....👍🏽
You literally used logic to prove why people should like the video lol. Nice job.
lol, 13:32, seems like even regular electronics in Joshua's house are powered by xt60 plugs))
I always use MG chemicals conformal coating as in Asia it's always rains out of no where then hot again so a crash in the grass could be tragic.
I dlflewbintoncats waterdish yesterday. A full 2 seconds in H2o. Dried out. No Damage. Seriously.
I've never used conformal or any waterproofing coating, and my multiple 5inch quads have been crashed in water, deep puddles, drains.. multiple times over the years. I just clean if there's mud, and nothing dies. Even my microwhoops dunked in a pool. Just let it dry for a day, that's it. And next week, it's dunked again. Im actually led to believe coating is not necessary. In the long term also, my quads are fine. Am I wrong?
But does the camera and vtx still work? Kinda important?
So what about the camera, did it survive?
OK Kemosabe, I Liked it! But a question for ya, Did the Camera survive ??, I'm guessing notta chance. Please let me know. Thanks. B. G.
Yep, it was fine.
I am brand new to FPV. I've seen nearly all of your videos over the past 5 weeks. I spent a lot of that time deciding what platform I want to buy, what radio I want to buy, what I want in my tool kit, etc. Last Friday my controller arrived, my brand new RadioMaster Boxer and dang! Believe me when I say it was well worth the investment as my first (hopefully only) controller. I've clocked maybe 4 hours in the simulator and am on lesson 3 of your "how to fly FPV playlist". I don't think I'll be getting a drone until black Friday or boxing day, and I have my eye on the Mobula 6 pro 2024. I am from Canada and I intend on getting my sRPAS Basic licence so I can't graduate to a 5" 6s drone one day. For now, I grind the sim. My free time is limited as I am a full time electrician and a new father of 2 but I'm seeing noticeable progress on each flight. I'm giddy with anticipation of being able to move my drone around while maintaining altitude and speed, and to get it to go exactly where I want, with limited slip through corners and little to no over corrections. Once I'm there... I'll get my first drone... For now. I grind.
Thank you for coming to my Ted talk
TLDR: thank you for giving me direction on my new hobby, can't wait to see what the future holds. Sim. Sim. Sim.
B-7000. Aliexpress. 2$. Лучше, что сейчас есть. Легко наносится, крепко держится и в холоде и в тепле, легко снимается и нажёжно защищает от воды.
Hey Joshua, I have this Mobeetle6 as well! I'm curious of the ECU temperatures with the coating on. Supposedly if the VTX is running at 400mW, it will lower the power depending on the temperature of the unit. I feel like this coating would keep it from dispersing heat like it should. Just curious! Thanks for the video!
He should have mentioned the motors. He should have flown it, not just armed it. And if it's waterproofed, why not just immediately plug in a battery and try flying right away?
He could have just did a video about washing off and drying a drone, and skipped the waterproofing altogether. I watched a guy fly his coated 5" UNDER WATER, and back out again, just to show how waterproof it was. This is very underwhelming. How about a proper waterproofing video?
And you should say..." I learned something today"
Just rescued a 5” from a pond after 2 weeks under water, no waterproof coating applied. Result 1 seized motor, ESC fried. Flight controller, 3 motors, caddy unit and ELRS, were working. Battery was screwed. The rule here is the ESC Diodes cut power first to the rest of the drone.
My new GepRC P16 is at the bottom of my brother's Koi pond... Can't see it or find it. I'm NOT jumping in there either...
Instead of telling me what not to coat like the barometer. Show me. I dunno what the barometer looks like.
Your pool isn't fresh water. It's chlorinated (probably). Also very bad for corrosion.
if the battery is still connected the water will get into the connection and short things out. Conformal ain't gonna help that.
best way to get water out of electronics is rince with isopropanol
So funny, this video was released just a few hours after I landed my acrobee65 in the garden pond. No conformal coating, did not unplug the battery under water but rinsed the pcb with Flux remover fluid and dried it in the sun. Got lucky, it still flies like a charm
Sometimes you get lucky!
I have a betafpv meteor 65 that sunk into a washer machine full of dirt water for about 8 minutes, and it survived, is still fully working. I didn't believe when I tested because it's so freaking insane, but is very true...lol
Just bought the Tinyhawk lll. In trying to get the flip over mode to work I have created a wobble in the drones hover. I think it happened because I used both joy sticks in one of my attempts. Any to get rid of it? Thanks.
Did the cam survive tho? If I plunge my whoop in water fair enough the fc would survive but what about the cam??
My wife was in the same room as me when I watched this video and all she heard was "conformal coating", "" conformal coating", e.t.c.
She was kind of mocking me for days by randomly chucking a "conformal coating" or two whilst talking for a few days.
You did manage to say the now unmentionble words forty three times in this video. About forty of them coming in the first half.
Clear nail polish. works well, comes off easily with alcohol and saves you from anything short of full submersion. For the amount of work most people do to a quad on an ongoing basis, a coating that is 'difficult' is really not so good.
Having said that, if you're over water then maybe go all-in with the good stuff.