How do you like this spoil board design? And don't forget to check out the automatic tool changer video...or watch it again ;) ruclips.net/video/ZeOUdosoEBM/видео.html You can support me and my projects here: www.patreon.com/mariushornberger
Will it be possible to make a cnc machine without cables? Whether the movement is transmitted mechanically, through a laser, or by wireless signal, at least a lot of wires would be eliminated.
Just get aluminum or brass pins instead of steel. Unless you're using very tiny bits, even cheap high speed steel bits will blow right through them if your toolpaths are accidentally going through them.
“Finally found the proper use for a slotted screw” - Hits it with a hammer….. Totally Savage ! Love your work, Marius. Thanks for so many great and inspiring videos! 😊
I guess you have got your 6mm pins by now, but for the future, and for viewers, I have scrapped a few cheap inkjet and laser printers recently. It's amazing how little there is that's of much use, but there is ground shaft including 6mm. (I expected the laser printer to be much better than the inkjets... it was a real disappointment; very little that was not plastic!) A while ago I was allowed to plunder a large commercial copier which had a stack of automatic document collating trays. It was past its use-by date, and being dismantled! What an absolute treasure trove! Loaded with stepper motors, up to NEMA 23, ground shafts, very precise and strong full-extension drawer slides, power supply, bearings & bushes, plugs, sockets, switches, sensors, and all of a quality to die for. Worth keeping in mind. Thanks for another great video; they just keep getting better and better! :o)
I've got about 50 shafts of various sizes/diameters out of old printers. What I also have used a few times, are the rubber rollers moving the paper. The can usually be slid off the shaft and then fit nicely onto M4/5/6/8 bolts. They make good anti-vibration mounts or soft endstops for mechanical contraptions. But you're right, everything in a (consumer) printer is so specialized that it's hard to use parts anywhere else. I still got a huge collection of motors, springs, photo interrupters. And I did actually use the optical encoder wheel and sensor of an HP inkjet to build a jog for my CNC. Mechanical switch jogs are for beginners ;) .
The book provides clear illustrations ruclips.net/user/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO diagrams that cover many of the essential topics. The projects at the end of the book are valuable for enhancing your skills and creating your own furniture. A digital platform linked to the book that could offer the plans for other woodworking projects with the cut sheets would have been a nice addition, but overall, the book is excellent.
You make everything seem so easy. I know it isn't and I'm very impressed by your knowledge in all those fields, to be able to do what you do. And not just do it, but do it perfectly. 👍😎
Marius, I have followed you from the day I found your channel. That has been quiet a while, "I don't remember". I think you are a genius, the things you have done to your CNC machine are unreal. Plus there is the quality of your normal project work, simply over the top. I LOVE your channel.
On the last video he commented that it was only the order that he programmed it. It'd all work with the big tool method, but the small tool was made first and then he added the big tool clause so stuck with that. That was written poorly, but basically big tool only would work, just came after the original code and wasn't changed
Thanks for another good one boss! I've been considering various spoilboard clamping for a while. I have a layer of ply under mdf ATM, but it has a bit more flex than I would like between the steel rails of my DIY frame underneath. We may go similar to yours but with cast aluminium plates in the end... More umming and areing underway.
Marius - could you tell us please, what controller and software are you running on the Router (eg Mach3, Mach4, PLC (Siemens/Allen Bradley), or ? ) ? I am interested in how you programmed the slide motion and activated the clamp and un-clamp feature on the spindle
As you flatten the spoil board down, I expect that your new extra side board bits will slowly become higher than your main work area. What is your plan to address that.
Because they're screwed down, he could take them off and fix them to the spoilboard and face them the same amount he faced the middle, then put them back. Dunno if that's his plan, but that's what I'd do.
setting up my first cnc with the onefinity and was planning to use 3/4 dog holes but after this it makes so much more sense to go with the smaller holes, thank you! where can I print out that T nut you used?
you have turned that little CNC into a serious component manufacturing device - Has Laguna offered you a job, or at least asked for the price for all the desings? ( you want residual income from any deal like that - 1 Euro per part sold or something like that + the initial fee ... Licensing !!)
Moin Marius! Du hast mal in einem deiner Videos angesprochen, dass Du keine "offensichtliche Werbung", also DIREKT angesprochene Werbung machen willst! Es gibt einen anderen deutschen create bzw. Schreiner/Tischler der, ähnlich wie Du, mit nem Sponsor T-Shirt, alle arbeiten vor der Kamera macht! Ich möchte Dir deinen lokalen Solar-Unternehmen nicht madig machen und Du wirst bestimmt einen Grund haben warum Du deren Werbung trägst. Aber es gibt auch Firmen die dich bestimmt gerne Sponsoren würden, ohne deine Glaubwürdigkeit zu diskreditieren. z.B. Laura Kampf oder der Andre Göbel Ich bin der Meinung das Du eine ähnliche Reichweite hast und Dir ähnliche Angebote nicht entgehen lassen solltest! LG
Lustig, du bist der erste der die "Werbung" auf meinem T-Shirt anspricht. Die waren von einem Fest übrig und ich hab 8st davon oder so. Seitdem sind das Arbeits-T-Shirts. Ich denke ich werde mir irgendwann ein Shirt mit meinem Logo machen.
Beautiful execution on your machine! Id love to have one like it on my own sometime. If you ever want ideas for spoilboard or worktable design upgrades or anything with the machine, Anderson CNC machines are a great idea to look at. I work with two of them, and they're awesome, reliable, and very easy to run. (I work almost exclusively with industrial cnc routers, so i can always provide a little bit of a pointer if you want upgrade ideas lol)
Brilliant plan design. I would like to know what software did you design this plan for your cnc file? Do you have link to your plan that we could customize to our cnc machine. I am new and don't know how to design and make those bolt nuts holes you make with the cnc. Thank you for your amazing and intelligent designs.
I die see the video about toolchange it is beautyfull would-be you share the g code fik for toolchange en the probe And Your doel pin and champignons is great idea
You are very talented and do a lot of entertaining projects. The comment about slotted screw heads was spot on. 😅 So I guess I will be back. Even if it’s way to much three carcasses and to little metal in your workshop for my preferred fix. 😉😁
This is really cool, I'm sure ik not the only one if I would ask for a video of what happens in the background code wise with alligning making sure the passes match etc
I only realize it now. why you don t make a holes for a dogs or pipes . haw you will know where is a zero of the stock .Can you show haw you work with this table, plez.
Of course you are a big source of inspiration ! Now I had to Swift off the TV and go back to my shop to make something😄 But, because there's always Somewhere a "but"... If you didn't own this hammer CNC, did you get an other one from an other manufacturer or did you make one yourself? I mean, you showed us so many time that you can do things, so why not?
Great video! You should remove the strips on the sides and surface them to thickness then put them back so that even the edges of your table stay flat when you surface it
Good job man. I wish i had thought about using the dowel holes with nuts before i cut my waste board with threaded inserts and dowel pins. In any case i have to do another waste board anyway so i think I'll just do that next round
??? why do you glue your waste surface you will have to redo the whole process just to replace the MDF. Also if I was you I would consider building a vacuum table under the MDF.
If I recall correctly, in a previous spoilboard video, he decided that he would resurface the MDF until it was low enough that hitting T-track, threaded inserts, or whatever other metal components became a concern, then he would resurface once more and glue new strips of MDF on top. That way, the “wasted” portion which will never get cut into during normal CNC operations, gets essentially reused. It makes great sense, and I’ll do that after my next resurface.
Fo you have mechanical or inductive axis end switches? Because mechanical the "known spot" becomes an approximate spot, when cnc is restarted. You will have to re-zero pins, every time.
Well, he has a 3D model of the whole device. He probably have an X, Y coordinate network across the whole surface. As long he returns to what he defines as 0,0 on his machine. He can re-calibrate it easily to that. As a result, the known spots become easy for him to find. Like how he found the plugs from his old dog-bone set-up.
@@Helveteshit That's all true. Constantinos' point is that returning to 0,0 is difficult if he's using mechanical switches because the point at which they activate has a deadband
Only issue with the waste board is that you are left with a ridge on the side where the tools couldn’t reach to flatten, so oversized material is going to have to deal with that…
@@MariusHornberger Only reason I mentioned this, is that I had that issue with my CNC’s waste board as well, and it was a PITA whenever I had something just slightly oversize, especially when trying to fit square corners of the workpiece into the rounded corners of the waste board.
I just replaced my spoil (jig base) boards. I had originally had the same concept of using that space that my cnc couldn't reach but found it to be a mistake. I undersized my spoil (jig base boards) by 1" less than my cnc cutting capacity so I could always level the cnc table. I rarely use clamps I have them but don't use them. I use brass screws for my first cuts and then switch over to steel screws once the jig is proven and anchor into the jig boards. I do use a 1/4" plywood as my cut into spoil board (I nail it down with 23 gauge pin nails) and it works great. I use a lot of jigs to hold my work pieces as I generally make more than one piece at a time. Over 300 projects these past 3 years. Just now getting a feel for it.
I'm sitting here thinking about all the other guys here on RUclips that have CNC machines and are just grueling over what you have been able to do on your own and saving yourself a Ton of Money to have someone else do what you have done. I still think you might investigate mounting your CNC Vertica like the 5 axes I used to run years ago. I will save you a lot of room in your small shop.
It’s obvious you like to design tooling. But I just don’t understand gluing a spoilboard down. You can’t even remove just one spoilboard slat. Why spoilboard on top of ply? They make 1” MDF which is plenty thick. More you add below the spindle, the less height you have for thicker materials projects. Lots of work for hold downs. Did you consider making a longer reach arm on your existing hold downs?
You are very creative and ingenious in your designs. But for the purposes of a non-industrial size CNC, I wouldn’t give up table size for an auto tool loader. The spool board is also great design by not too practical. You have given up some machining height by the layers. In my double sided projects, the nature of the project such as the places an index pin can be located dictates where on the spoil board I will locate the pins. I do then with dowels and then just saw them flat when I am through.
I like the idea, but ... a part overhanging on the unmachined spoilboard sides will automatically be out of plane. Wouldn't the spoilboard out of the machining area be better if it were a little less thick?
How do you like this spoil board design? And don't forget to check out the automatic tool changer video...or watch it again ;) ruclips.net/video/ZeOUdosoEBM/видео.html
You can support me and my projects here: www.patreon.com/mariushornberger
Will it be possible to make a cnc machine without cables? Whether the movement is transmitted mechanically, through a laser, or by wireless signal, at least a lot of wires would be eliminated.
I gave up on metal pins a while ago and changed to wooden dowels. They're easily strong and accurate enough for my work and I save a tonne of anxiety.
Just get aluminum or brass pins instead of steel. Unless you're using very tiny bits, even cheap high speed steel bits will blow right through them if your toolpaths are accidentally going through them.
“Finally found the proper use for a slotted screw” - Hits it with a hammer…..
Totally Savage !
Love your work, Marius. Thanks for so many great and inspiring videos!
😊
IMHO the only acceptable use for slotted screws is matching the details on period homes and furniture.
I guess you have got your 6mm pins by now, but for the future, and for viewers, I have scrapped a few cheap inkjet and laser printers recently. It's amazing how little there is that's of much use, but there is ground shaft including 6mm. (I expected the laser printer to be much better than the inkjets... it was a real disappointment; very little that was not plastic!)
A while ago I was allowed to plunder a large commercial copier which had a stack of automatic document collating trays. It was past its use-by date, and being dismantled! What an absolute treasure trove! Loaded with stepper motors, up to NEMA 23, ground shafts, very precise and strong full-extension drawer slides, power supply, bearings & bushes, plugs, sockets, switches, sensors, and all of a quality to die for.
Worth keeping in mind. Thanks for another great video; they just keep getting better and better! :o)
I've got about 50 shafts of various sizes/diameters out of old printers. What I also have used a few times, are the rubber rollers moving the paper. The can usually be slid off the shaft and then fit nicely onto M4/5/6/8 bolts. They make good anti-vibration mounts or soft endstops for mechanical contraptions. But you're right, everything in a (consumer) printer is so specialized that it's hard to use parts anywhere else. I still got a huge collection of motors, springs, photo interrupters. And I did actually use the optical encoder wheel and sensor of an HP inkjet to build a jog for my CNC. Mechanical switch jogs are for beginners ;) .
The book provides clear illustrations ruclips.net/user/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO diagrams that cover many of the essential topics. The projects at the end of the book are valuable for enhancing your skills and creating your own furniture. A digital platform linked to the book that could offer the plans for other woodworking projects with the cut sheets would have been a nice addition, but overall, the book is excellent.
You make everything seem so easy. I know it isn't and I'm very impressed by your knowledge in all those fields, to be able to do what you do. And not just do it, but do it perfectly. 👍😎
He is, how we call it, a Käpsele.
Will there be a video about your 3D printed touch probe?
eventually, I guess
@@MariusHornberger Can't wait to see it!
Yeah, it would be great. Rather sooner than later 🙂
Marius, I have followed you from the day I found your channel. That has been quiet a while,
"I don't remember". I think you are a genius, the things you have done to your CNC machine
are unreal. Plus there is the quality of your normal project work, simply over the top. I LOVE
your channel.
Is there a good reason why you couldn't use the "wide tool" motion to change narrow tools as well?
On the last video he commented that it was only the order that he programmed it.
It'd all work with the big tool method, but the small tool was made first and then he added the big tool clause so stuck with that.
That was written poorly, but basically big tool only would work, just came after the original code and wasn't changed
Thanks for another good one boss! I've been considering various spoilboard clamping for a while. I have a layer of ply under mdf ATM, but it has a bit more flex than I would like between the steel rails of my DIY frame underneath. We may go similar to yours but with cast aluminium plates in the end... More umming and areing underway.
Marius - could you tell us please, what controller and software are you running on the Router (eg Mach3, Mach4, PLC (Siemens/Allen Bradley), or ? ) ? I am interested in how you programmed the slide motion and activated the clamp and un-clamp feature on the spindle
I have similar vibes about the dog holes, always using the same 5 or so holes for registers.
This was a great project. Thank you for sharing your journey and knowledge.
Again great job Marius. Was Sie aus der kleinen Maschine rausgeholt, ist einfach erstaunlich.
Great job. Looking forward to see it used on new project builds.
As you flatten the spoil board down, I expect that your new extra side board bits will slowly become higher than your main work area. What is your plan to address that.
Because they're screwed down, he could take them off and fix them to the spoilboard and face them the same amount he faced the middle, then put them back. Dunno if that's his plan, but that's what I'd do.
Can you make a video on your wireless probe?
How much if you want to sell i please let me know.
setting up my first cnc with the onefinity and was planning to use 3/4 dog holes but after this it makes so much more sense to go with the smaller holes, thank you! where can I print out that T nut you used?
You'll find them on my Thingiverse page
you have turned that little CNC into a serious component manufacturing device - Has Laguna offered you a job, or at least asked for the price for all the desings? ( you want residual income from any deal like that - 1 Euro per part sold or something like that + the initial fee ... Licensing !!)
Moin Marius!
Du hast mal in einem deiner Videos angesprochen, dass Du keine "offensichtliche Werbung", also DIREKT angesprochene Werbung machen willst!
Es gibt einen anderen deutschen create bzw. Schreiner/Tischler der, ähnlich wie Du, mit nem Sponsor T-Shirt, alle arbeiten vor der Kamera macht!
Ich möchte Dir deinen lokalen Solar-Unternehmen nicht madig machen und Du wirst bestimmt einen Grund haben warum Du deren Werbung trägst.
Aber es gibt auch Firmen die dich bestimmt gerne Sponsoren würden, ohne deine Glaubwürdigkeit zu diskreditieren.
z.B.
Laura Kampf oder der Andre Göbel
Ich bin der Meinung das Du eine ähnliche Reichweite hast und Dir ähnliche Angebote nicht entgehen lassen solltest!
LG
Lustig, du bist der erste der die "Werbung" auf meinem T-Shirt anspricht. Die waren von einem Fest übrig und ich hab 8st davon oder so. Seitdem sind das Arbeits-T-Shirts.
Ich denke ich werde mir irgendwann ein Shirt mit meinem Logo machen.
Beautiful execution on your machine! Id love to have one like it on my own sometime.
If you ever want ideas for spoilboard or worktable design upgrades or anything with the machine, Anderson CNC machines are a great idea to look at. I work with two of them, and they're awesome, reliable, and very easy to run. (I work almost exclusively with industrial cnc routers, so i can always provide a little bit of a pointer if you want upgrade ideas lol)
Beautiful functional again. Enjoyed that, thanks. Now only thing missing is some transparent protection guard from flying tool bits .
Brilliant plan design. I would like to know what software did you design this plan for your cnc file? Do you have link to your plan that we could customize to our cnc machine. I am new and don't know how to design and make those bolt nuts holes you make with the cnc. Thank you for your amazing and intelligent designs.
Hiya Marius,
Great video, again, thank you. Do you know how good you are?
Stay safe, Steve...
I die see the video about toolchange it is beautyfull would-be you share the g code fik for toolchange en the probe
And Your doel pin and champignons is great idea
You are very talented and do a lot of entertaining projects.
The comment about slotted screw heads was spot on. 😅
So I guess I will be back. Even if it’s way to much three carcasses and to little metal in your workshop for my preferred fix. 😉😁
"I finely found a proper use for a slotted screw" - OMG; that's perfect. Thanks Marius!
beau travaille beaucoup d imagination DRUMMONDVILLE P Q
This is really cool, I'm sure ik not the only one if I would ask for a video of what happens in the background code wise with alligning making sure the passes match etc
I only realize it now. why you don t make a holes for a dogs or pipes . haw you will know where is a zero of the stock .Can you show haw you work with this table, plez.
Verry nice work you did 👍 when you want better chips go climbcutting and use also left helix groef for the keycutter
Wie immer klasse Arbeit Marius. :)
Of course you are a big source of inspiration ! Now I had to Swift off the TV and go back to my shop to make something😄
But, because there's always Somewhere a "but"... If you didn't own this hammer CNC, did you get an other one from an other manufacturer or did you make one yourself? I mean, you showed us so many time that you can do things, so why not?
Great video that gives me ideas of how to redo my spoil board. I used 3/4" pvc but the holes are big and unsightly.
Wie immer - Ausgeseichnet! Love your work Marius. I want to build a cnc router table identically the same as yours.
Super 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Well you lucky young man. I know your ability to think things through is way up there, so can't wait to see projects you make that incorporate the CNC
The tool changer is awesome and the sound was quite satisfying --- hehehehe.
Very well done indeed, that crack about slot screws in particular.
Brilliant as usual, can I ask where you work or what job you have?
nice vid!
does your cnc also make noise on the X axis? and how do you lube it? seems to me like turning it over is the only option.
If I would not speak German, I’d assume that Marius was the German translation for genius 🙃
Great video! You should remove the strips on the sides and surface them to thickness then put them back so that even the edges of your table stay flat when you surface it
Good job man. I wish i had thought about using the dowel holes with nuts before i cut my waste board with threaded inserts and dowel pins. In any case i have to do another waste board anyway so i think I'll just do that next round
what kind of controling program and control pad you use ?
Well done as usual!! I'm really looking forward to seeing more about that operator station, too!
👍👍👍👍
👍👍👍💪
👍👍👍
⭐🙂👍
.
I really enjoy your content. Inspiration for sure for my shop.
??? why do you glue your waste surface you will have to redo the whole process just to replace the MDF. Also if I was you I would consider building a vacuum table under the MDF.
If I recall correctly, in a previous spoilboard video, he decided that he would resurface the MDF until it was low enough that hitting T-track, threaded inserts, or whatever other metal components became a concern, then he would resurface once more and glue new strips of MDF on top. That way, the “wasted” portion which will never get cut into during normal CNC operations, gets essentially reused. It makes great sense, and I’ll do that after my next resurface.
”At least I only need to do this once.” he says for the second time…
nice
haw much for your 3d fusion folder with thiss
Klasse Video und ich denke ich werde das ein oder andere auf meine Maschine übernehmen können 👍🏻🔝🙌
Marvelous ! I don't need one but I still want one :D
Super Videos as Always Marius! Love your new spoil board and tool changer. When will you publish the tslot cover video? I need these! :)
Send me an Email if you want the file for that (marius.ho1995@gmail.com) There's no video about that
Slotted screws are easy to scrape paint and dirt out of.
Consider putting clamping slots at diagonal.
What is the make and model of your CNC machine? Sorry if that answer is already posted somewhere
It's a HAMMER HNC 47.82
I have multiple videos about it on my channel
hello how is name of your cam program ??
could you do a video about your diy 3d probe? thx
love your videos as always, nice work Marius
Another great video Marius.
Kewl :)
The new logo is nice too!
tenacity, well done. ty great vid
you're a F... genius !!!
A thing of beauty!
Quality video!
Fo you have mechanical or inductive axis end switches? Because mechanical the "known spot" becomes an approximate spot, when cnc is restarted. You will have to re-zero pins, every time.
Pretty sure he’d be all over this by now
Well, he has a 3D model of the whole device. He probably have an X, Y coordinate network across the whole surface. As long he returns to what he defines as 0,0 on his machine. He can re-calibrate it easily to that. As a result, the known spots become easy for him to find. Like how he found the plugs from his old dog-bone set-up.
@@Helveteshit That's all true. Constantinos' point is that returning to 0,0 is difficult if he's using mechanical switches because the point at which they activate has a deadband
Spot on, simple and effective
Genius at work
Only issue with the waste board is that you are left with a ridge on the side where the tools couldn’t reach to flatten, so oversized material is going to have to deal with that…
But as I mentioned, I never had overhanging stuff. And I can unscrew the outer strips when necessary
@@MariusHornberger Only reason I mentioned this, is that I had that issue with my CNC’s waste board as well, and it was a PITA whenever I had something just slightly oversize, especially when trying to fit square corners of the workpiece into the rounded corners of the waste board.
you are a Beast !
:)
You should make a real life version of your logo!
Noted
Thank you
Awesome!!!
Brilliant!
How did you flatten the sides if the waste board that are out of the tool path?
I didn't
I just replaced my spoil (jig base) boards. I had originally had the same concept of using that space that my cnc couldn't reach but found it to be a mistake. I undersized my spoil (jig base boards) by 1" less than my cnc cutting capacity so I could always level the cnc table. I rarely use clamps I have them but don't use them. I use brass screws for my first cuts and then switch over to steel screws once the jig is proven and anchor into the jig boards. I do use a 1/4" plywood as my cut into spoil board (I nail it down with 23 gauge pin nails) and it works great. I use a lot of jigs to hold my work pieces as I generally make more than one piece at a time. Over 300 projects these past 3 years. Just now getting a feel for it.
Super durchdacht
good job
Ein Kommentar
Marius, this is a fantastic series, even an old technophobe like me can understand what you are doing. Thanks for sharing.
not grueling SPELL CHECK DROOLING, FULL OF ENVY, WISHING THEY HAD WHAT YOU NOW HAVE
I'm sitting here thinking about all the other guys here on RUclips that have CNC machines and are just grueling over what you have been able to do on your own and saving yourself a Ton of Money to have someone else do what you have done. I still think you might investigate mounting your CNC Vertica like the 5 axes I used to run years ago. I will save you a lot of room in your small shop.
It’s obvious you like to design tooling. But I just don’t understand gluing a spoilboard down. You can’t even remove just one spoilboard slat. Why spoilboard on top of ply? They make 1” MDF which is plenty thick. More you add below the spindle, the less height you have for thicker materials projects. Lots of work for hold downs. Did you consider making a longer reach arm on your existing hold downs?
You are very creative and ingenious in your designs. But for the purposes of a non-industrial size CNC, I wouldn’t give up table size for an auto tool loader. The spool board is also great design by not too practical. You have given up some machining height by the layers. In my double sided projects, the nature of the project such as the places an index pin can be located dictates where on the spoil board I will locate the pins. I do then with dowels and then just saw them flat when I am through.
I like the idea, but ...
a part overhanging on the unmachined spoilboard sides will automatically be out of plane.
Wouldn't the spoilboard out of the machining area be better if it were a little less thick?
I'd unscrew the outer strips in that rare case
👍👍👍
second
Think I was first lol
@@Micington I can only see your reply 4 min ago while mine is 6 min ago
@@edward7409 hahaha my bad
I've never been heavily homosexual but Marius makes me want to start my own CNC projects.
Fantastic job!