Honestly thank you so much for this. It’s 104 here and no AC was rough. Also the nice calm music is a nice touch when you are stressed trying to get something fixed.
Excellent video Dave, clear, concise right to the point. Love the music as well ... I haven't pulled mine apart as yet, being right hand drive hoping the resistor is behind the glove box and not under the steering wheel. I'll find out tomorrow when I attack it. Cheers. Completed the fix today, a 400mm phillips head driver did the trick, able to get to both top and bottom screws from the glove box opening, pulled out the resistors and re-soldered the spring loaded contact. Replaced the cabin filter whilst the glove box was open like a new car ... ha ... Thankyou again Dave , keep those helpful hints coming. Hooroo ...
Wow I’m at a dealer right now waiting for oil change. they were going to charge 180 just to “diagnose” the blower motor issue, so glad I saw this. Thanks!
Thx for the video. Just replaced this in my wife’s 2011 Fit. I’m not as flexible as I was 40 years ago but I still have enough (barely) to get under and around the things I needed to. 😊 My 3.5” stubby Phillips screwdriver was actually a bit too long to be ideal as another part was interfering. 1/4” smaller would have been better if I could have found it.
THANK YOU DAVE!!!! I live rural Australia (yes in a Honda Jazz 🤣🤪 -) 40C and the fan stops short of blasting your eyebrows off. Taking the car in for a problem is a whole day expedition to a mechanic. So this video is greatly appreciated. Ordering the part now. Thank you. thank you.
Nice! I knew it was the blower resistor, same thing happened to a few other cars I've seen. Thank you so much for including the part number too. It's a small detail but a good one 👍
Excellent video - thank you very much! I don’t know how you were able to get both of your hands on the screwdriver for the bottom screw like that… I could not contort my body and big mitts on the little stubby, which slowed me down a bit but I got the job done and saved lots of money. Thanks again!
As a warning to others, don’t run the resistor outside of its hole. The airflow of the blower cools it as it will become very hot. If you run it outside that airflow, it will quickly overheat and break. I speak from experience.
@@josephbernard6782 I am curious to know why they fail in the first place. I've had about 100 cars in my lifetime and this is the first time I am every having to replace one of these.
@@prohomevideos it could be that something is wrong with the blower fan staying on or spinning fast enough, and the resistor is the first thing to go when it messes up.
Thought I had a bad resistor for the blower motor on a 95 Bonneville. It was the motor going bad. New motor and resistor, the 3 lower speeds were lower than they should be. So put the original resistor back in and it all worked as it should.
If this issue keeps happening (had it happen twice in two weeks to me) I'd suggest checking cabin air filter and replacing the blower motor fan. It's three screws and actually easier than the resistor, although the part is more expensive. My fan was shot and the resistor kept blowing out.
That’s a good idea, David. I actually thought about it, but then thought about all the other parts I have found over the years that I’d saved for cars I no longer even have.
Super helpful. I assume if im getting no blow out of any setting it's the full blower motor vs. The relay? Or should I just go ahead and replace both at the same time?
Hmm. I would star with the relay. In my experience, blower motors usually die a slow death. They get slower and slower and maybe make some bearing noise. You could just plug the new relay in to test (without even messing with the screws), and take it back if it's not the problem.
I made this repair about a month and a half ago, but now there’s a burning smell in my car and I’m only working on high power again. Any idea what I should check before replacing it again?
Sounds like the resistor went out again, Ben. It could be a defective part, or your fan motor could be going bad, causing the resistor to overheat and fail.
Very likely. Unless the blower has burned out now. If it went out suddenly, it's probably the resistor. If it started slowing down and died or made other noises, that would point to the motor.
I replaced it twice and each time it only lasted a few days. I guess I'll check if anything is blocking air from getting to the resistor and maybe try installing "upside down" it's not 100% obvious to me which way the arrow is supposed to go.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks. I swapped out the 30A fuse for 25A hoping it would blow the fuse rather than the resistor, but didn't help. There's plenty of air coming from the fan and it sounds fine, but suppose it could be failing in a way that draws too much current through the resistor without blowing the fuse, not sure what it's rated for.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Replacing the blower motor did the trick 👍🏻 The old motor is kind of stiff it doesn't spin freely. I stepped down to a 20A fuse and it still didn't blow makes me wonder why they let it consume up to 30A, seems like that would definitely blow out the resistor since under 25A also did that.
@@jonathandill3557 It might just be badly designed. The problem is that a solder connection breaks inside the resistor housing, but whether that is because the resistor gets too hot or it's a bad solder connection to begin with, who knows? Cancel Reply
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY The 2 that burned out on me were Duralast since that's what I could find in stock in my area would avoid that brand. I found an OEM part online and that's working fine. Since some of the resistance is coming from coils of resistive wire, I'm guessing the idea is to get some feedback to keep defrost from fogging up the window since the resistance will increase with heat or humidity slowing down the fan and speed up with cooler, drier air, based on my knowledge of gas chromatography weirdly enough, although GC is not a feedback loop and just measures the resistance. Otherwise, it would make a lot more sense to just use traditional resistors that are a lot more robust with much tighter tolerance and probably cheaper. If it happens again, I plan to try sticking heatsink fins on the solid face oriented in the direction of airflow and resolder the connection myself.
Has anyone tried this for a Honda Fit that had no air blowing on any of the fan settings? That is my issue, but I can hear the fans whirring within the engine, but there's no air blowing into the cabin.
i have a little bit on the 4th speed to get me home today, but nothing just now with key on but not running. What happened with yours? Resistor or motor?
Honestly thank you so much for this. It’s 104 here and no AC was rough. Also the nice calm music is a nice touch when you are stressed trying to get something fixed.
Thanks for the kind comment, Parker!
Excellent video Dave, clear, concise right to the point. Love the music as well ... I haven't pulled mine apart as yet, being right hand drive hoping the resistor is behind the glove box and not under the steering wheel. I'll find out tomorrow when I attack it.
Cheers.
Completed the fix today, a 400mm phillips head driver did the trick, able to get to both top and bottom screws from the glove box opening, pulled out the resistors and re-soldered the
spring loaded contact. Replaced the cabin filter whilst the glove box was open like a new car ... ha ...
Thankyou again Dave , keep those helpful hints coming.
Hooroo ...
Thanks, Bruce. I hope you have an easy time of it!
Wow I’m at a dealer right now waiting for oil change. they were going to charge 180 just to “diagnose” the blower motor issue, so glad I saw this. Thanks!
Hope it works for you!!
Thank you so much! This just happened to my Fit yesterday and now I know the part and the procedure 🙏🙏🙏
Thx for the video. Just replaced this in my wife’s 2011 Fit.
I’m not as flexible as I was 40 years ago but I still have enough (barely) to get under and around the things I needed to. 😊
My 3.5” stubby Phillips screwdriver was actually a bit too long to be ideal as another part was interfering. 1/4” smaller would have been better if I could have found it.
Just successfully followed the instructions- and It worked!!! Thanks!!
Glad to hear it!
THANK YOU DAVE!!!! I live rural Australia (yes in a Honda Jazz 🤣🤪 -) 40C and the fan stops short of blasting your eyebrows off. Taking the car in for a problem is a whole day expedition to a mechanic. So this video is greatly appreciated. Ordering the part now. Thank you. thank you.
Awesome. All the best on your repair!
Nice! I knew it was the blower resistor, same thing happened to a few other cars I've seen. Thank you so much for including the part number too. It's a small detail but a good one 👍
Thanks for watching, Robert!!
DIY Dan, wow, what an awesome video, videos that show every step are done by good people...and you are good people!!! Thank you.!.!
Glad you enjoyed it :-)
Excellent video - thank you very much! I don’t know how you were able to get both of your hands on the screwdriver for the bottom screw like that… I could not contort my body and big mitts on the little stubby, which slowed me down a bit but I got the job done and saved lots of money. Thanks again!
I'm going to be employing this tomorrow morning. My '09 just did this to me today.
All the best, Ryan!
I'll say this, you made it look A LOT easier than it is. 😉
Thanks man, I bought one that I have to fix ... appreciate the info!!!!
All the best on your project!
Thank you so much for saving us so much time and aggravation
Thanks for watching!
As a warning to others, don’t run the resistor outside of its hole. The airflow of the blower cools it as it will become very hot. If you run it outside that airflow, it will quickly overheat and break. I speak from experience.
Good call-out, Joseph! Thanks for the comment.
Mine has never ran out of its hole and it still broke, twice in two years.
It will break instantly outside of the hole. It takes longer if it's in the hole.
@@josephbernard6782 I am curious to know why they fail in the first place. I've had about 100 cars in my lifetime and this is the first time I am every having to replace one of these.
@@prohomevideos it could be that something is wrong with the blower fan staying on or spinning fast enough, and the resistor is the first thing to go when it messes up.
Thought I had a bad resistor for the blower motor on a 95 Bonneville. It was the motor going bad. New motor and resistor, the 3 lower speeds were lower than they should be. So put the original resistor back in and it all worked as it should.
Many Thanks for the video and explanation! Made it very easy to understand and accomplish the task!
If this issue keeps happening (had it happen twice in two weeks to me) I'd suggest checking cabin air filter and replacing the blower motor fan. It's three screws and actually easier than the resistor, although the part is more expensive. My fan was shot and the resistor kept blowing out.
Good points. Thanks for the tips!
Why cant you just sodder the piece back that got disconnected?
Shhh 🤫
Because that defeats the safety of a resistor
Thanks, Dave, for another great video!
Thank YOU for another kind comment, DW!
Thank you for the video! Very helpful. Where did you get the part from??
I think I got it from Autozone ... but maybe O'Reilly's??
great camera work, enjoyed the music thanks! One question, why cant I just re solder the broken wire?
Why didn't you just resolder the old one? Might be worth it even to have a spare handy.
That’s a good idea, David. I actually thought about it, but then thought about all the other parts I have found over the years that I’d saved for cars I no longer even have.
Super helpful. I assume if im getting no blow out of any setting it's the full blower motor vs. The relay? Or should I just go ahead and replace both at the same time?
Hmm. I would star with the relay. In my experience, blower motors usually die a slow death. They get slower and slower and maybe make some bearing noise. You could just plug the new relay in to test (without even messing with the screws), and take it back if it's not the problem.
Great video, thank you for this info!
Thanks for watching, Jeff!
Great vid! Very helpful. Just save me $150 by doing it myself!
Glad to hear it!!
I made this repair about a month and a half ago, but now there’s a burning smell in my car and I’m only working on high power again. Any idea what I should check before replacing it again?
Sounds like the resistor went out again, Ben. It could be a defective part, or your fan motor could be going bad, causing the resistor to overheat and fail.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I hope it’s a bad part. I had to replace the blower motor a few months back and then the resistor went out.
Thanks for a video ! I changed blow resistor yesterday but today its not working again. What can be a problem? Maybe wires?
Hmmm. Could be a bad replacement resistor or wiring, among other things. I'd take it out, pop it open, and see if the solder melted on it already.
Thank you for this
Thank YOU for watching, Pat!
Thanks!
Thank you Jonathan!! Very kind!!
I had this issue for a few years and now the heater doesn’t work at all. Is it likely the same culprit?
Very likely. Unless the blower has burned out now. If it went out suddenly, it's probably the resistor. If it started slowing down and died or made other noises, that would point to the motor.
Used to only work on high for a few months now just fully quit on me
Bummer ... I hope you're able to fix it.
I replaced it twice and each time it only lasted a few days. I guess I'll check if anything is blocking air from getting to the resistor and maybe try installing "upside down" it's not 100% obvious to me which way the arrow is supposed to go.
Jonathan, If your fan motor is going bad, it could be burning up your resistors. You might need to change your blower motor first.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks. I swapped out the 30A fuse for 25A hoping it would blow the fuse rather than the resistor, but didn't help. There's plenty of air coming from the fan and it sounds fine, but suppose it could be failing in a way that draws too much current through the resistor without blowing the fuse, not sure what it's rated for.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Replacing the blower motor did the trick 👍🏻 The old motor is kind of stiff it doesn't spin freely. I stepped down to a 20A fuse and it still didn't blow makes me wonder why they let it consume up to 30A, seems like that would definitely blow out the resistor since under 25A also did that.
@@jonathandill3557 It might just be badly designed. The problem is that a solder connection breaks inside the resistor housing, but whether that is because the resistor gets too hot or it's a bad solder connection to begin with, who knows?
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Reply
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY The 2 that burned out on me were Duralast since that's what I could find in stock in my area would avoid that brand. I found an OEM part online and that's working fine. Since some of the resistance is coming from coils of resistive wire, I'm guessing the idea is to get some feedback to keep defrost from fogging up the window since the resistance will increase with heat or humidity slowing down the fan and speed up with cooler, drier air, based on my knowledge of gas chromatography weirdly enough, although GC is not a feedback loop and just measures the resistance. Otherwise, it would make a lot more sense to just use traditional resistors that are a lot more robust with much tighter tolerance and probably cheaper. If it happens again, I plan to try sticking heatsink fins on the solid face oriented in the direction of airflow and resolder the connection myself.
Mines a 2008 different part for me Hover over image to zoom
Duralast Blower Motor Resistor JA1921 thanks awesome detailed stream thanks
Thanks for watching!
Has anyone tried this for a Honda Fit that had no air blowing on any of the fan settings? That is my issue, but I can hear the fans whirring within the engine, but there's no air blowing into the cabin.
i have a little bit on the 4th speed to get me home today, but nothing just now with key on but not running. What happened with yours? Resistor or motor?
You're hearing the radiator fans. The blower fan for the heat/AC is behind the dashboard.
Fisix
This could and should have been a two minute video
Thanks for the input.