Thank you Sam, that was a very detailed look at the options and it will help my next repair job to the small gap between the paving blocks and the garden wall and the details you advised us about is greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
Great video, just completed 30 metres of patio pointing using the grout bag method. Never heard of this till I saw your video and couldnt believe how easy it was to do, will be using this in future for all my pointing work. The only difficulty was that if you are pointing indian sandstone where the joint sizes can vary or be uneven you need to take a bit of care when squeezing out the grout. thanks
No problem, to be honest even though I’ve been a builder for 15 years I’d never used a grout bag before last year! Yea you do have to be a bit more careful on the sandstone but once you are used to the grout bags they are nice and controllable. Thanks for watching too
They sell plastic point bags where you cut the bag yourself.This is what I use so on thin joints I can squeeze the tip to avoid getting it on the brick or stone.
Glad it helped you! A bit of a nightmare doing cement pointing this time of year getting it to go off. Methods 2 and 3 are great and quick just got to get that mix right
@@SamDaviesBuilder yea I bought sand and when I opened it up it was soaking wet and a lot of it was solid and frozen as well.. Luckily I was speaking to the elderly neighbour moaning about it and he said I've got a few bags in the garage you can have, so that was a handy save. I'm doing his patio and another neighbors next week so all good, I just hope the one I did last week still looks okay when I pop back there 😅
Great video, and having tried this technique a while back and recommending to others, I defo find the piping bag easiest and quickest. Great advice on timings of when to strike with the pointing tool and how to remove the debris. If you end up with any wet cement on slabs from pointing too early, a big wet tilers sponge comes in handy 👍
Hella hot in Cali, just did some patch work from tree root damage, grout dried so fast had to add more water to give me some extra time. Wish I had it like this on the vid.
I bought a point master after seeing you use it on another video. I couldn't get the mix quite right. I changed to using a tuck pointer which I found very easy to fill the joints neat and tidy. As a low skilled DIY tuck pointer is the way to go for me, though I'm sure someone with more skill could do a better and faster job with one of these three methods in this vid.
Hi Alex, I think getting the mix right is probably one of the hardest things to do. I probably should have included the tuck pointer method in this video. I’m glad you found a method that works for you too
@@SamDaviesBuilder I was grouting the patio slabs today did the dry mix & the brush in .. worked out great a good sunny dry one too ... your vid helped a lot thanks
I have porcelain pavers with polymeric sand, but the patio is below grade level which means it's wet underneath. I'll try this method. Does anyone know if there'll be problems with drainage? This is the video I was looking for. Very informative. Thank you for posting.
Hi, thanks for these techniques. Is it also possible to spread dry cement mix in the cracks (like polymeric and) and then spray water in a controlled fashion? Please let me know if there will be problems with that. Thanks
Hi, I wouldn’t recommend that. That method seems to never set as hard as the method I show in these videos. Wet mix always sets firmer and if done right will last years
I did just that and it has hardened ok, but there's was mortar staining along all the joints, which was hard to get off. I brushed it in carefully but there was some on each side of the joints. So I dont recommend it!
Great tutorial. I have a pressure washing business and more frequently being asked about re pointing patios (aged damage not damage I’ve done) quick question, what makes a ‘good mix’? Yours looks wetter than than other tutorials I’ve seen?
No problem, thanks for the compliment. So for me I always use it wet rather than a dry mix to brush in as it never goes off as hard when brushed in dry. A good mix would be a nice creamy mix that the water doesn’t separate from - a good test for this is if you push the barrow across bumpy ground then water shouldn’t be coming out of the mix and sitting on the surface. It should be smooth if you trowel it and not break apart easily. It’s quite hard to describe but hope this helps. I do have a few videos about mixing on my channel. Any more questions feel free to ask away
@@dirtlushpressurewashingser114 no problem. Just remember use a good quality plasticiser and sand. Don’t add too much of the plasticiser (or too little 🤣) and give it a chance to mix
Really good advice and an easy to follow video. Life's short so I'm going to investigate the pointmaster tool. Thanks for sharing. BTW is it a 6:1 mix with plasticiser?
Hi Sam, love your tips. Are you able to share what ratio you use for your grout, particularly for the grout bag. I’ve tried a few mixes for my patio pointing and none work anywhere near as well as that in your video. Thanks
Hi, This mix would be 4:1 which would be 4 parts sand to 1 part cement with plasticiser. There is a couple of videos on my channel about how to mix mortar, they may help you :)
@@SamDaviesBuilder I used the grout bag today, followed your 4:1 ratio plus plasticiser, and it worked a treat. Took me a while to get my technique right - I found tightly gripping the back of the bag with one hand then squeezing with the other hand closer to the nozzle worked best for me. Pleased to get that out of the way!
@@davids9815 glad it worked well for you! It is hard to get the technique of squeezing it out right as I found that out when I started using the grout bag. Now you can enjoy your patio!
My problem is that I can never make a mix that flows enough to use a bag. The video says 4:1 sand/cement with plasticiser. What kind of plasticiser do you use? Your mix doesn't look very wet yet it flows wonderfully!
I use the concentrated plasticiser, Sika is one of the brands that do it. How long are you leaving it mix? If there is any water rising to the top of your bucket/wheelbarrow out of the mix while you are using it then it’s not been mixed long enough. I have a few videos on how to make a good mix on my channel
Hi Sam, nice job. Can you tell me if your area is suitable to park a car. If I'm not wrong the slabs are 38mm thick if 600x600 and 32mm if 450x450.. I'm planning to do something similar to park a car. I don't like the look of the council standard slabs (50mm) which will be better for driveway. I would use these ones you used. Thanks
Hi, thankyou. I have never laid any to park a car on so I can’t really give good advice. I have seen people park cars on these slabs with a full mortar bed but I can’t comment on the longevity of it. I would normally recommend block paving for parking a car on as they can take any movements where as a slab like this would just crack if it moved. Hope this helps a bit!
You would only use polymeric sand on very narrow joints (1mm wide). On bigger joints, you have to use another product as the polymeric sand is too fine to hold itself together
@@SamDaviesBuilder I have used kiln dried sand at 2:1 with cement to try and make it rock hard so it won't wash out. I just put piles of it on the slabs and swept it in before chopping it in to compact it. I then used a hose with a fine mist to wet the joints but it's left a film over the slabs.
@@hTyKn1 ah I’ve got you. Kiln dried sand is way too fine for pointing it hasn’t got large enough grains for strength. Wet pointing like in my video means it sets rock hard. You can get the film off with a brick acid (don’t use brick acid on sandstone or natural slabs though, you’ll have to get a specialist cleaner for those type of slabs)
Just find with the gun went p pump it into the joints it takes too long and put into bits of slate either side of the joint takes too long that's my opinion old way is 3 soft sand 1 sharp sand 1 cement always gauge it in bucket so you all way get the same colour put in mix little bit spr or UniBond mix up like it semi-dry so you can make like a fist ✊ in hand to test it be for you put mix in the joints with a gauging trowel make sure the slabs are absolutely dry or they will stain one you put in the joint are filling then run or Donna or finger trowel try like you striking the joint clean off the excess as you do about 10 square be some excess bit just brush it off with a soft broom come up really well 👍 used to do diamond point in as well same mix only little bit wet then put in joints then would use my little pointing trowel once I feel the joints and then strike each hedge with the little diamond pointing trowel come back next day gone off hard would clean snots excess with your trowel on the edges put a stiff broom over it come up really well 👍 another way off pointing is put in the joints with the same mix little bit wet to the top joints then sponge it off like tile grouting 👍 retired old stone mason got 40 years at experience 👍 hope this will help you but you never stop learning 👍
@@tomnapper101 I do like the diamond pointing. You know your stuff but with the semi dry method unless you really understand it like yourself it’s hard to do, I’ve seen so many people do it and it not go off like when a wet mix goes in or stain the slabs like mad. I’ve aimed this video more at the DIY’ers as for us builders it is a breeze doing pointing, there’s so many tricks and tips to learn on it and nothing beats experience like you have, all these skills are getting slowly lost!
If slabs are dry it doesn't stain . When you put the point in in Plus goes hard because it's got the spr in it or Una Bond in mix 👍 there's good point material to use is called gpm is in a powder got additive with it all knock it up with a paddle drill add water you got five different colours and it stays the same colour really good stuff you should try 👍
You may be good at this method but most people doing this will just brush it in dry, not compact it properly and not get any moisture on it and then it will just crumble and come out in a short space of time. It is a very difficult method to get right!
Yea slate is for DIY'ers that cant keep the slabs clean, just an option for people. I have never got on with using a dryish mix as it doesn't seem to go off as well as using a wet mix
The commentary had lots of phrases such as "a good mix", "leave it to go off", "when its dry enough". If you have enough experience to make these judgements, you probably don't need this video. If you don't, the video doesn't help.
I do understand where you’re coming from with your points. There is videos on my channel of how to do a good mix. With regards to time with it to go off when it’s dry enough it’s so difficult difficult to explain as it’s so dependent on whether the conditions and temperatures
Thanks for the feedback, what method would you suggest and is better than these methods? I am always looking to take on new ideas. Also, the first two methods are aimed at DIY people who may be attempting to fix a bit of pointing on their own patio. ruclips.net/video/SFq14FSsEEI/видео.html this is the link to another patio pointing video.
Constructive feedback in a respectful manner is usually more helpful tp DIY'rs like me rather than half wit comments. Sounds like to me that you have 1 year's experience that is now 14 years old. 😝
Hi, it all depends on how big the area is and if it's a new patio or work needs doing to take out old pointing so it is difficult to say how much it would cost. For the work I was doing in this video it would be a days labour plus materials - depending on your area will probably affect how much a day rate would be.
@SamDaviesBuilder I see. If it gets roasting, I could do it in the evening when the sun goes down, maybe. Looking at your mortar mix and a couple of others on here, it seems like patience is the trick. Let it mix.....
Thank you Sam, that was a very detailed look at the options and it will help my next repair job to the small gap between the paving blocks and the garden wall and the details you advised us about is greatly appreciated.
Many thanks.
No problem at all, I’m glad the video helped and thanks for taking the time to comment
Very impressed. Like the tube squirt tool. Thanks for the very clear instructions. Peace and goodwill.
Thanks, I really appreciate you watching!
Liked the Pointmaster tool ! Nice fillum .
Thankyou 😃. The Pointmaster is a great tool as long as the mix is good
Great video, just completed 30 metres of patio pointing using the grout bag method. Never heard of this till I saw your video and couldnt believe how easy it was to do, will be using this in future for all my pointing work. The only difficulty was that if you are pointing indian sandstone where the joint sizes can vary or be uneven you need to take a bit of care when squeezing out the grout. thanks
No problem, to be honest even though I’ve been a builder for 15 years I’d never used a grout bag before last year! Yea you do have to be a bit more careful on the sandstone but once you are used to the grout bags they are nice and controllable. Thanks for watching too
They sell plastic point bags where you cut the bag yourself.This is what I use so on thin joints I can squeeze the tip to avoid getting it on the brick or stone.
Excellent video, thanks. Just did my first paid job last week using method 1 and it looks okay, but definitely going try methods 2 and 3 👍
Glad it helped you! A bit of a nightmare doing cement pointing this time of year getting it to go off. Methods 2 and 3 are great and quick just got to get that mix right
@@SamDaviesBuilder yea I bought sand and when I opened it up it was soaking wet and a lot of it was solid and frozen as well.. Luckily I was speaking to the elderly neighbour moaning about it and he said I've got a few bags in the garage you can have, so that was a handy save. I'm doing his patio and another neighbors next week so all good, I just hope the one I did last week still looks okay when I pop back there 😅
Ah yea I had sand the other day that was soaking, put no water in the mixer and still the mix was a bit wet! Let me know how the other patios go!
Great video, and having tried this technique a while back and recommending to others, I defo find the piping bag easiest and quickest. Great advice on timings of when to strike with the pointing tool and how to remove the debris. If you end up with any wet cement on slabs from pointing too early, a big wet tilers sponge comes in handy 👍
Thanks, good tip with the tilers sponge too!
Very useful - thanks as am about to start for very first time. Have bought the thing for method 3.
Thanks! Get the mix right and it’s a joy to do. There is a few videos of mixing on my channel if you’d like to take a look
Good video Sam!
Thanks, Max. Appreciate you watching and the comment.
Your last message with the tubes reminds me of my sons water toy
Yea I think I’ve seen similar as a toy!
Hella hot in Cali, just did some patch work from tree root damage, grout dried so fast had to add more water to give me some extra time. Wish I had it like this on the vid.
It must be so difficult to do work like this in hot climates so I do feel your pain!
Excellent video thank you. I've seen where all my mistakes were in the past. Now i'll do a proper job thanks to you...
Thankyou, glad the video was of help to you!
I bought a point master after seeing you use it on another video. I couldn't get the mix quite right. I changed to using a tuck pointer which I found very easy to fill the joints neat and tidy. As a low skilled DIY tuck pointer is the way to go for me, though I'm sure someone with more skill could do a better and faster job with one of these three methods in this vid.
Hi Alex, I think getting the mix right is probably one of the hardest things to do. I probably should have included the tuck pointer method in this video. I’m glad you found a method that works for you too
Very informative, thank you
Brilliant idea
Very good video
Thankyou 😃🤞
Excellent job 👏 thank you
No problem, thankyou for watching! 😃
Cheers, great advice.
Glad it was helpful! 😃
Great vid mate
Thanks 😃
Brilliant informative very clear and well explained.
Glad it was helpful! Thankyou
I really appreciate this
Thankyou 😃😃
Thanks, super helpful!
Glad it was helpful! 👍😀
I need to try this on my patio
I enjoyed that sir I’m going to hove a go myself
Thanks, hope this video is useful for when you have a go
Nice work..I need some idea with my slabs!!thanks 😃
Thankyou 😃👍
Any more detailed vids on laying the slabs. I’m struggling getting them level and the same height all around
There’s a few more videos on my channel about laying slabs, hopefully they help you
Lovely job with the bag .. yea shoulda been a pastry cheff😎
Thanks....future career maybe!
@@SamDaviesBuilder I was grouting the patio slabs today did the dry mix & the brush in .. worked out great a good sunny dry one too ... your vid helped a lot thanks
@@wittywoo9559 glad it helped and hope there’s some more sunny days so you can enjoy the patio!
Great video. Clear explanation and presentation. Your camera man needs Treathay for his hayfever.
Thankyou 😃🙏. Yea he does, maybe I can get a sponsor off a hayfever remedy company 🤣
Excellent
Thanks 😃
The trick with the "squeeze bag" is to apply pressure at the BACK of the bag, not at the tip. You know this if you've iced cake using a pastry bag.
Good tip, thankyou
I have porcelain pavers with polymeric sand, but the patio is below grade level which means it's wet underneath. I'll try this method. Does anyone know if there'll be problems with drainage? This is the video I was looking for. Very informative. Thank you for posting.
Hi, what gaps to you have between your porcelain? Anything less than 10mm won’t really be suitable for this
Thank you for letting me know. The largest gaps are at the walls which is over a one inch gap.@@SamDaviesBuilder
@@lovejoy9592 that gap would be fine, it’s just knowing what your smallest gaps are so I can advise the best way to go
Great description on timing of finishing. Thank you.
For mortar bagging have you tried using lime as plasticiser?
Thankyou! No I haven’t tried using lime as plasticiser, I always use a liquid plasticiser as it’s easy to make a good mix with it.
It's like frosting a cake 😊
Just not as tasty 🤣
SBR in your mix ever?? Great video mate 👍🏻
I have done before but didn’t do it on this one.
And thanks for the compliment 😃😃
Hi, thanks for these techniques. Is it also possible to spread dry cement mix in the cracks (like polymeric and) and then spray water in a controlled fashion? Please let me know if there will be problems with that. Thanks
Hi, I wouldn’t recommend that. That method seems to never set as hard as the method I show in these videos. Wet mix always sets firmer and if done right will last years
I did just that and it has hardened ok, but there's was mortar staining along all the joints, which was hard to get off. I brushed it in carefully but there was some on each side of the joints. So I dont recommend it!
That looks real nice. Would like to use that type of paver for my patio, so do your pavers have to be on a flat surface.
Thanks. Well patio slabs need a fall to get rid of water but the base needs to be even
@@SamDaviesBuilder ok, Thanks
Great tutorial. I have a pressure washing business and more frequently being asked about re pointing patios (aged damage not damage I’ve done) quick question, what makes a ‘good mix’? Yours looks wetter than than other tutorials I’ve seen?
No problem, thanks for the compliment.
So for me I always use it wet rather than a dry mix to brush in as it never goes off as hard when brushed in dry. A good mix would be a nice creamy mix that the water doesn’t separate from - a good test for this is if you push the barrow across bumpy ground then water shouldn’t be coming out of the mix and sitting on the surface. It should be smooth if you trowel it and not break apart easily. It’s quite hard to describe but hope this helps. I do have a few videos about mixing on my channel. Any more questions feel free to ask away
@@SamDaviesBuilder magic, thank you. I’ll take a look and do a few test mixes. Appreciate the response 👍
@@dirtlushpressurewashingser114 no problem. Just remember use a good quality plasticiser and sand. Don’t add too much of the plasticiser (or too little 🤣) and give it a chance to mix
Really good advice and an easy to follow video. Life's short so I'm going to investigate the pointmaster tool. Thanks for sharing. BTW is it a 6:1 mix with plasticiser?
Hi, thankyou, glad the video could help. I’d go for 4:1 with plasticiser for pointing
Brilliant pal
Thankyou 😃🙏😊
It the US we use perma - sand but weeds always grow through and you need to re do it every few years. I really want to try mortar or cement
Yea the mortar is great for stopping the weeds! Is mortar used commonly on patios in the USA?
Good job,nice to see it done properly,dry mix waste of time,the cowboys use dry mix
Thanks ☺️. Yea I’ve never seen a dry mix work well, always seems to come out.
EXCELLENT VIDEO
Thank you very much! 😃
Hi Sam, love your tips. Are you able to share what ratio you use for your grout, particularly for the grout bag. I’ve tried a few mixes for my patio pointing and none work anywhere near as well as that in your video. Thanks
Hi,
This mix would be 4:1 which would be 4 parts sand to 1 part cement with plasticiser. There is a couple of videos on my channel about how to mix mortar, they may help you :)
@@SamDaviesBuilder Thanks, yes I found that just after I posted this query, really helpful
@@davids9815 no problem, let me know how it goes!
@@SamDaviesBuilder I used the grout bag today, followed your 4:1 ratio plus plasticiser, and it worked a treat. Took me a while to get my technique right - I found tightly gripping the back of the bag with one hand then squeezing with the other hand closer to the nozzle worked best for me. Pleased to get that out of the way!
@@davids9815 glad it worked well for you! It is hard to get the technique of squeezing it out right as I found that out when I started using the grout bag. Now you can enjoy your patio!
How long have the slabs been down before jointing?
If it’s summer I’d be on them the next day, in the winter I’d have to leave it a full day before pointing
@@SamDaviesBuilder thanks so much for replying and so quick. Good videos you do. Keep it up
@@Flybynight69 no problem and glad the videos have helped!
Is it building sand for mortar bag? I tried sharp but it wouldbt flow.
Yea definitely building sand or bricklaying sand. Just make sure it’s a nice mix and it will flow through a bag fine
@@SamDaviesBuilder thanks bud
@@ryanrepairs6944 no problem!
My problem is that I can never make a mix that flows enough to use a bag. The video says 4:1 sand/cement with plasticiser. What kind of plasticiser do you use? Your mix doesn't look very wet yet it flows wonderfully!
I use the concentrated plasticiser, Sika is one of the brands that do it.
How long are you leaving it mix? If there is any water rising to the top of your bucket/wheelbarrow out of the mix while you are using it then it’s not been mixed long enough. I have a few videos on how to make a good mix on my channel
Hi Sam, nice job. Can you tell me if your area is suitable to park a car. If I'm not wrong the slabs are 38mm thick if 600x600 and 32mm if 450x450.. I'm planning to do something similar to park a car. I don't like the look of the council standard slabs (50mm) which will be better for driveway. I would use these ones you used. Thanks
Hi, thankyou.
I have never laid any to park a car on so I can’t really give good advice. I have seen people park cars on these slabs with a full mortar bed but I can’t comment on the longevity of it.
I would normally recommend block paving for parking a car on as they can take any movements where as a slab like this would just crack if it moved.
Hope this helps a bit!
Brush diagonally with the big brush.
Good tip!
As I am a chef can I just say that using a piping bag is agood idea but only half fill the bag and you will find it much easier
Thank you I will take your advice on board
because the bag is only half full you can twist the end closed and a gentle squeeze will be all you need ok
@@laurencebarber4152 yea that sounds good advice
is it possible mr lauren chef to do a 1.5 mm nozzle for the piping bag?
The nozzle size very much depends on how liquid the mixture is but give it a go and you will find out best of luck
Where did you get the slates
Any good builders merchants will have slates
Is it not meant to be a dry mix?
What makes you say that?
@@SamDaviesBuilder most of other vids I've seen about pointing flags say 4:1 dry mix
@@adilson3691 it never lasts when brushed in dry in my opinion
Im going to try your method in my back yard
@@adilson3691 great! Just make sure your mix is good and you’ll have no problems
Sharp sand or building sand??
Building sand
Where do you buy mortar bags please?
EBay is probably the best place
Can you say why mortar is better than polymeric sand for this?
You would only use polymeric sand on very narrow joints (1mm wide). On bigger joints, you have to use another product as the polymeric sand is too fine to hold itself together
As a builder I never realised any one person can make such a mess pointing a slab patio Joe
Are you implying I am making a mess here?
you should see the mess I've made of mine then!
@@hTyKn1 what would you have done differently to not make a mess? I definitely made a mess when I started out!
@@SamDaviesBuilder I have used kiln dried sand at 2:1 with cement to try and make it rock hard so it won't wash out. I just put piles of it on the slabs and swept it in before chopping it in to compact it. I then used a hose with a fine mist to wet the joints but it's left a film over the slabs.
@@hTyKn1 ah I’ve got you. Kiln dried sand is way too fine for pointing it hasn’t got large enough grains for strength. Wet pointing like in my video means it sets rock hard. You can get the film off with a brick acid (don’t use brick acid on sandstone or natural slabs though, you’ll have to get a specialist cleaner for those type of slabs)
Great information, much appreciated. Camera operator just needs to take his hay fever or cold remedy.
Thanks. Yes the cameraman messed up a bit here with his sniffing!
Throw it in the bin old school best way 👍
Hi Tom, what’s the old school way?
Just find with the gun went p pump it into the joints it takes too long and put into bits of slate either side of the joint takes too long that's my opinion old way is 3 soft sand 1 sharp sand 1 cement always gauge it in bucket so you all way get the same colour put in mix little bit spr or UniBond mix up like it semi-dry so you can make like a fist ✊ in hand to test it be for you put mix in the joints with a gauging trowel make sure the slabs are absolutely dry or they will stain one you put in the joint are filling then run or Donna or finger trowel try like you striking the joint clean off the excess as you do about 10 square be some excess bit just brush it off with a soft broom come up really well 👍 used to do diamond point in as well same mix only little bit wet then put in joints then would use my little pointing trowel once I feel the joints and then strike each hedge with the little diamond pointing trowel come back next day gone off hard would clean snots excess with your trowel on the edges put a stiff broom over it come up really well 👍 another way off pointing is put in the joints with the same mix little bit wet to the top joints then sponge it off like tile grouting 👍 retired old stone mason got 40 years at experience 👍 hope this will help you but you never stop learning 👍
@@tomnapper101 I do like the diamond pointing. You know your stuff but with the semi dry method unless you really understand it like yourself it’s hard to do, I’ve seen so many people do it and it not go off like when a wet mix goes in or stain the slabs like mad. I’ve aimed this video more at the DIY’ers as for us builders it is a breeze doing pointing, there’s so many tricks and tips to learn on it and nothing beats experience like you have, all these skills are getting slowly lost!
If slabs are dry it doesn't stain . When you put the point in in Plus goes hard because it's got the spr in it or Una Bond in mix 👍 there's good point material to use is called gpm is in a powder got additive with it all knock it up with a paddle drill add water you got five different colours and it stays the same colour really good stuff you should try 👍
@@tomnapper101 cheers Tom will check that product out!
The water marks on the slabs should all go one way when laying them specific slabs.
Thanks Jimmy I will check this out next time
@@SamDaviesBuilder no worries mate 🤙🏻
just brush in dry mix sand and cement any moisture will set it...simples
You may be good at this method but most people doing this will just brush it in dry, not compact it properly and not get any moisture on it and then it will just crumble and come out in a short space of time. It is a very difficult method to get right!
Slate? Lol. Just use a firm dryish mix, pack it in and shape and remove any excess with no staining.
Yea slate is for DIY'ers that cant keep the slabs clean, just an option for people. I have never got on with using a dryish mix as it doesn't seem to go off as well as using a wet mix
Or could just use a dry mix and brush in
It never lasts doing it that way sadly
@SamDaviesBuilder 3 years down mate..Still looks good as new...I compact it well though
@@davegill7614 if you know what you’re doing and how to compact then it is doable but you get people just brushing it in and leaving it
@SamDaviesBuilder yep fair point mate 👍
Tell your mate to blow his nose….. good video
Thanks 😃.
Yeah, I really wish I could’ve taken the sniffing out of it!
I knew there were many better ways my Formans way that he showed me to was to use 3 sponges and scrub the shit outta them all the time
I mean everyone has their own technique but that way sounds a bit of a faff! Always handy to have a clean damp sponge to wipe anything off though
The guy recording who was constantly sniffy was giving me the boak 🤮
Never heard of ‘the boak’ but I’m guessing it’s a bad thing 🤣🤣🤣
Use a trowel, stetson boy.
That is another good method!
@@SamDaviesBuilder The only method.
@@fritzdrybeam I don’t think it’s the only method but it’s another method 😃
@@SamDaviesBuilder Yee ha!!
@@fritzdrybeam 🤠🤠🤠🤠
😂
?
The commentary had lots of phrases such as "a good mix", "leave it to go off", "when its dry enough". If you have enough experience to make these judgements, you probably don't need this video. If you don't, the video doesn't help.
I do understand where you’re coming from with your points. There is videos on my channel of how to do a good mix. With regards to time with it to go off when it’s dry enough it’s so difficult difficult to explain as it’s so dependent on whether the conditions and temperatures
£20 brush in resin take you 10 min 👍
Takes longer than that to do resin properly I’m afraid
All these methods are terrible.......I've been landscaping for 14 years and own my own company......
Thanks for the feedback, what method would you suggest and is better than these methods? I am always looking to take on new ideas.
Also, the first two methods are aimed at DIY people who may be attempting to fix a bit of pointing on their own patio.
ruclips.net/video/SFq14FSsEEI/видео.html this is the link to another patio pointing video.
Constructive feedback in a respectful manner is usually more helpful tp DIY'rs like me rather than half wit comments. Sounds like to me that you have 1 year's experience that is now 14 years old. 😝
I think these methods are sound thanks
Haha cowboys……yeh ha
Gobshite
How much would it cost to have the patio pointed like that? good job well done ✅
Hi, it all depends on how big the area is and if it's a new patio or work needs doing to take out old pointing so it is difficult to say how much it would cost. For the work I was doing in this video it would be a days labour plus materials - depending on your area will probably affect how much a day rate would be.
@@SamDaviesBuilder thanks for the feed back, it helps a lot. Continue with your good work it’s unfaultable. 👍🏻
@@mmamodfatheruk3094 thanks 😀😀
How do you maintain the pointing gap, and at what width?
I'm going your way with my rivens!.... I think 🤔🫠😆
I just do them by eye but when I started out I used 12mm ply cut into strips as a spacer.
You’ll be fine following my way… a good mix is key!
@SamDaviesBuilder
great! I've made a gap bar out of old wood. It's about 11/12mm too.
Friday is the big day. Thanks for the video and replies.
@@ryandoherty6174 no problem at all. If it’s really warm, don’t do too much at once. Once you get a feel for it you can do more of an area at one time
@SamDaviesBuilder I see. If it gets roasting, I could do it in the evening when the sun goes down, maybe.
Looking at your mortar mix and a couple of others on here, it seems like patience is the trick. Let it mix.....
@@ryandoherty6174 yes patience is key, let me know how it goes