The arrows on the back of the tiles are there for the factory to calibrate their systems. If at quality check there is a discrepancy in the cut edge of tile the arrow will indicate which part of the cutting process is faulty. Nothing to do with laying direction of slab, although you can of course follow the arrows if you wish.
Are you using sharp sand or building sand for your mix. Sharp is always better for strength and curing times as a motar mix with building sand takes so much longer to go off
It’s what we call building sand but it’s probably more like sharp sand. Here in West Wales we can only get plastering sand or building sand at the local merchants.
Quality work. Love your videos. I'm laying a patio for the first time this weekend. Any tips would be great! Would you advise putting primer onto concrete slabs before laying them or is that just for porcelain slabs?
Thanks Daniel! I don't primer concrete slabs but if it is your first time I would recommend using primer as a belt and braces approach. Let me know how it goes! Just make sure you use a good mortar mix to lay the slabs with and you will be fine.
Wouldn't recommend leaving a perimeter gap in bedding material as this prevents a 'backstop' for grouting and would lead to grouting failure over time. Always best to have the full bedding throughout. No gaps.
@@SamDaviesBuilder One way to get the full bed the perfect height is to use a piece of wood with a step cut in ( to the correct depth ) and drag it along the top of an adjacent slab , skimming off any excess mortar
@@frog-eye1420 yea that’s a good tip. You need to make sure your sub base is perfect height for that to work every time though as if your mortar depth changes to suit an uneven sub base then where you finish your mortar for how much the slab will tap down will change. Hope that makes sense!
Laying on a wet mix glues the slab to the mortar and they will never separate. It can also, and often does, settle after laying leaving a low or high point. If there is ground movement or settlement the only way to relay is to break up the slab and lay a new one. Traditional mason paviors use sharp sand and cement dry mix which still goes solid but remains flexible enough for relay and doesn’t sag after laying. Of course, using a wet mix enables the DIY person to lay as the traditional method requires skill. I see lots of patios where the slabs have been laid on mortar blobs. This leaves a void into which all manner of vegetation and insects can move in.
You do realise to lay porcelain properly you have to bond bridge the slab using a cement based slurry primer - which means the slab bonds properly to the mortar. Why would you aim to lay a slab that doesn’t bond to the mortar properly? There shouldn’t be ground movement if the ground is prepared properly so you don’t need to replace slabs. Also with regards to blobs of mortar, I understand your point but I’m showing a full bed of mortar here
Nice job, I will try to inspire from it. I think I asked you already, would you use porcelain 20mm or natural buff slabs of 38mm thickness for car use? Thanks
Hi, I just gave her a reply to the other comment, but thought I’d better respond to this one too. I definitely wouldn’t use 20 mm porcelain for a parking car on, 38 mm slab would be more suited but I don’t have experience with laying slabs for a car to park on, I’m afraid
Hi, thanks. It is an off the shelf product - www.protilertools.co.uk/product/ultra-scape-pro-prime-polymer-modified-slurry-primer-20kg?gclid=Cj0KCQiAv8SsBhC7ARIsALIkVT025dcce2mELw2BOTnoLiN0FCo5QwlU-gRu1dohZyEP0K9RwZWN-7kaAm7bEALw_wcB
brill, thanks for the speedy reply ! do you build from building to grass when its not an issue losing some of the lawn ? and last question how do you account for end tiles widthways ? Do you try to keep tiles at either end even, or one full tile and cut on the other side ? If that makes sense haha @@SamDaviesBuilder
@@mattw1260 yea when it’s not an issue I’d build house to lawn. But if I’m on a set distance out from the house I’d go lawn to house. On the width I’d either try and finish on a half or a full slab. But every job is so different it’s difficult to say exactly. What works for one won’t work for the next if you get me
thanks so much for the advice, fantastic video too, really appreciate content creators like yourself out here sharing expert information !@@SamDaviesBuilder
Voids for water to accumulate in - potential freeze-thaw in heavy frost. Spaces for insects to move about and create further holes. Reflective staining if is laid on blobs. Probably more reasons I just can't think of them!
@@SamDaviesBuilder you’re welcome . You should upload a video of the whole process in the future mate . I’ve Never seen a patio slab done like that but it looks fun and interesting 👍
Yes very true, once they get longer too you get an issue with lipping if you half bond them as (especially cheap quality ones) they are never truly flat
@@TC_landscapes yea I don’t mind constructive criticism as there is different ways of doing things but when people have a go at me in the comments and I reply they seem to disappear 🤣
Beautiful work and lovely footage buddy.
That mix looks so satisfying to work with!
Thanks Marcus. It was lovely stuff to use!
thanks for the tips, im a plasterer by trade about to lay a patio at home so youtube is my friend atm 😊👍👍
Thanks, glad the video helped 😃. I take my hat off to you plasterers
good job I've found from experience using a plastering trowel is faster for spreading your bed and your adhesive
Thanks, yea I’ve seen people using plastering trowels to do the bed I may give it a try
The arrows on the back of the tiles are there for the factory to calibrate their systems. If at quality check there is a discrepancy in the cut edge of tile the arrow will indicate which part of the cutting process is faulty. Nothing to do with laying direction of slab, although you can of course follow the arrows if you wish.
So do you mean if there is an arrow there is a faulty cut edge?
Are you using sharp sand or building sand for your mix. Sharp is always better for strength and curing times as a motar mix with building sand takes so much longer to go off
It’s what we call building sand but it’s probably more like sharp sand. Here in West Wales we can only get plastering sand or building sand at the local merchants.
Nice! Is it possible with that metod för ordinary inndor klinker? Just stones then wet concrete to put the tile in
What sort of tiles are klinker? How thick are they?
@@SamDaviesBuilder ordinary tiles for inside uce. Hope they will not crack. I think i have seen they do that in India, so probably its working
If they are under 10mm thick I would only use tile adhesive thin bed
@@SamDaviesBuilder they will crack if put in wet concrete like for outdoor uce?
@@cieslaolsztyn8266 if they under 10mm thick they may crack with you putting them down on cement. Tile adhesive would be much easier
Quality work. Love your videos. I'm laying a patio for the first time this weekend. Any tips would be great! Would you advise putting primer onto concrete slabs before laying them or is that just for porcelain slabs?
Thanks Daniel! I don't primer concrete slabs but if it is your first time I would recommend using primer as a belt and braces approach. Let me know how it goes! Just make sure you use a good mortar mix to lay the slabs with and you will be fine.
Wouldn't recommend leaving a perimeter gap in bedding material as this prevents a 'backstop' for grouting and would lead to grouting failure over time. Always best to have the full bedding throughout. No gaps.
Yea I know what you’re saying, I leave a slight gap so when I tap the slab down the mortar has somewhere to move into and closed the gap up
@@SamDaviesBuilder One way to get the full bed the perfect height is to use a piece of wood with a step cut in ( to the correct depth ) and drag it along the top of an adjacent slab , skimming off any excess mortar
@@frog-eye1420 yea that’s a good tip. You need to make sure your sub base is perfect height for that to work every time though as if your mortar depth changes to suit an uneven sub base then where you finish your mortar for how much the slab will tap down will change. Hope that makes sense!
Laying on a wet mix glues the slab to the mortar and they will never separate. It can also, and often does, settle after laying leaving a low or high point. If there is ground movement or settlement the only way to relay is to break up the slab and lay a new one.
Traditional mason paviors use sharp sand and cement dry mix which still goes solid but remains flexible enough for relay and doesn’t sag after laying. Of course, using a wet mix enables the DIY person to lay as the traditional method requires skill. I see lots of patios where the slabs have been laid on mortar blobs. This leaves a void into which all manner of vegetation and insects can move in.
You do realise to lay porcelain properly you have to bond bridge the slab using a cement based slurry primer - which means the slab bonds properly to the mortar. Why would you aim to lay a slab that doesn’t bond to the mortar properly? There shouldn’t be ground movement if the ground is prepared properly so you don’t need to replace slabs.
Also with regards to blobs of mortar, I understand your point but I’m showing a full bed of mortar here
thanks for the tips
No problem! Thanks for watching
Nice job, I will try to inspire from it.
I think I asked you already, would you use porcelain 20mm or natural buff slabs of 38mm thickness for car use?
Thanks
Hi,
I just gave her a reply to the other comment, but thought I’d better respond to this one too.
I definitely wouldn’t use 20 mm porcelain for a parking car on, 38 mm slab would be more suited but I don’t have experience with laying slabs for a car to park on, I’m afraid
Hi there. Nice work. Whats Primer mix? Or of the shelf?
Hi, thanks. It is an off the shelf product - www.protilertools.co.uk/product/ultra-scape-pro-prime-polymer-modified-slurry-primer-20kg?gclid=Cj0KCQiAv8SsBhC7ARIsALIkVT025dcce2mELw2BOTnoLiN0FCo5QwlU-gRu1dohZyEP0K9RwZWN-7kaAm7bEALw_wcB
Do you work from grass to building purposely, to leave cut tiles closest to the building and full tiles closest to the lawn ?
In this instance I did for that reason but sometimes I’ll work building to grass and finish on a full tile
brill, thanks for the speedy reply ! do you build from building to grass when its not an issue losing some of the lawn ?
and last question how do you account for end tiles widthways ? Do you try to keep tiles at either end even, or one full tile and cut on the other side ? If that makes sense haha @@SamDaviesBuilder
@@mattw1260 yea when it’s not an issue I’d build house to lawn. But if I’m on a set distance out from the house I’d go lawn to house.
On the width I’d either try and finish on a half or a full slab. But every job is so different it’s difficult to say exactly. What works for one won’t work for the next if you get me
thanks so much for the advice, fantastic video too, really appreciate content creators like yourself out here sharing expert information !@@SamDaviesBuilder
@@mattw1260 no problem at all, glad you found the channel 😃
Will you put any grout between tiles or leave like this, so water just go down to the base?
These get grouted with outdoor tiling grout, the joints are only 5mm thick
What would happen if there was gaps underneath ?
Voids for water to accumulate in - potential freeze-thaw in heavy frost. Spaces for insects to move about and create further holes. Reflective staining if is laid on blobs. Probably more reasons I just can't think of them!
looks awesome
Thankyou 😃
@@SamDaviesBuilder you’re welcome . You should upload a video of the whole process in the future mate . I’ve Never seen a patio slab done like that but it looks fun and interesting 👍
@@ernestogonzalez17 I certainly will do when the right job comes along 😀
@@SamDaviesBuilder right on mate 👍
Thanks.👍🏽
No problem, thanks for watching!
Nice size tile to work with. As they get bigger each one becomes more of an event to lay…😆
Yes very true, once they get longer too you get an issue with lipping if you half bond them as (especially cheap quality ones) they are never truly flat
5-7 business days later he laid that tile
I pride myself on my speed
I doubt that he could be that quick it was painful to watch.
lovely looking slabs, where are they from?
I’m pretty sure these were from Jewsons
@@SamDaviesBuilder thanks
How much to do this
Every job is different
How about fall to allow for drainage so patio doesn't become flooded?
I haven’t covered this in the video but I will try and do an in-depth one about falls and hardcore
@@SamDaviesBuilder thatd be brill
NICE
Thanks :)
Maybe use a vibration tool to bed down instead of whacking with mallet as can cause fractures in the tiles they’ve all week points 👍
I’d only consider a vibrating tool if I was laying on tile adhesive….these tiles are 20mm thick so can take a lot of whacking!
you was leaning on that slab pushing it further down . you could see the gap under the spirit levels and thats not how you lay a slab
I didn't push it any further down than where it needed to be. It is how I lay a slab and its worked well for me for a long time!
Wow I bet you get through so tubs of grout 😂😂
What makes you say that?
4-1
Back butter with thinset
5:1 and I use primer
Having all the arrows in one direction is a load of bullshit.
What do you think the arrows mean?
Good job you not on price work buddy...
Let’s hear how fast and good you are 😃
@SamDaviesBuilder aye im a little bit faster and a little bit better..👍
@@Crips2432 that’s good to know. I’ll never be about speed but I’ll do a good job 😃
I'd of laid 5 flags by the time you primed that 😫
You must be a millionaire, well done 😃
Cracking skills Christian. Do you have a link to your channel?
Flags? bet there wonky as f cause your steaming mate.
@@SamDaviesBuilder he won't be by the time he's gone back and relaid everything he's put down
@@matthewm6669 🤣🤣
Just another DIY er pretending to be a paver. Wet mix is bad!
Could you explain why wet mix is bad?
@@SamDaviesBuilder I love how they never reply once challenged. I use wet mix, never had a problem with it. Great work mate!
@@TC_landscapes yea I don’t mind constructive criticism as there is different ways of doing things but when people have a go at me in the comments and I reply they seem to disappear 🤣