Of all the dozens of videos I’ve watched to get a bank of knowledge on how to do this, this has to be the most explained, most informative and easy to follow video. Well done chaps.
I'm about to attempt this myself in a couple of weeks so ive been trying to learn as much as possible from RUclips. This is the best guide ive cone across, thanks for posting
@@Neo-mw1pp took me a lot longer than the guys on these landscaping videos but I got it done. Ended up having to dig down 400mm as the ground was so bad (blue clay). I installed land drains to help with drainage and linked them to main drains. Felt like giving up many times but I got it done in the end and saved a fortune. We've had heavy rain/bad frost recently and I've not had any slabs "popping" and not a single puddle. I'm made up with it. looking forward to good weather so I can enjoy a beer out there.
@@Rockwell21well done - there have been many opportunities to enjoy a beer on your nice new patio now :) I'm thinking of doing the same as you, do you have any other tips or videos that helped you?
This is an excellent video showing all aspects of the installation process. As a professional landscaper myself it is so refreshing to see a manufacturer giving this information about their products. Everyone should watch this video before attempting to lay a porcelain patio. Great work
I have watched so many of these this morning and I could've saved the time by watching this. This really is excellent. Well thought out beforehand, just enough illustrations and text included and executed very well. Others take note, this is what we want to see for an instructional video. Well done
I've laid porcelain for years and used priming slurry. Trust me that stuff is so strong you do not need to go the edges. Leave a 50mm space to the edge. Stops you transferring it everywhere when you pick up the slabs. You will make a huge mess and that stuff is a nightmare to clean up. Also you do not want it too thick. When cutting the porcelain the best options are. 1. Large table cutter 2. 4 inch grinder with correct blade for intricate cuts. I.e. around recessed drains. 3. Do not use a petrol cutter. It does not rotate quick enough and will heavily chip slabs. For grouting. Make the grout into a toothpaste consistency. If it is too wet or too dry it is a huge race to clean up on a warm day and does not bond if too dry. Buy a washboy for cleaning the porcelain. It's essential for a professional finish. Happy laying.
You can put it on thick if you want to, but it's not necessary. The correct slurry is so strong that you can put it on however you like. You can also use a cheap exterior adhesive watered down to a paint like viscosity and it has the same effect.
1 in 60? 2nd bubble line Holy hell thats too steep! I got taught 1 in 80! First line! I've laid plently of patios and they all look nice and drain well.
I have put porcelain tiles up in a bathroom had to prime the back of the tile with the mix to take the dust off, without it the dust on the back of the tile sticks to the adhesive and the tile can fall off. You had to apply and push the mix and that rolled the dust into the mix. It would appear there is a primer adhesive now makes sense. I slipped a thumbs edge of near the edge otherwise when you press in and level the mix it came out the joints and needed clearing for the grouting while wet. Do not let it set before you clear it or you will chip the edges. That was the recommendations at the time. Also used a combed continuous layer combed to the shortest width of tile to allow air to escape. I used tile spacers that protrudes and use plastic wedges to flatten the surface. You have to use a cement adhesive not tubbed tile grout for ordinary tiles, that will not dry properly. Five dabs and a level is a bodge always has been always will be!
Interested to know why it's absolutely necessary to put primer all the way to the edge? I'd have thought that 90% coverage would be more than enough. I left an inch around the edge of mine primarily to avoid getting it on gloves or have it come out the joint gap when hammering in. I found it tended to spreas out all the way anyway. The only reason I can think that youd need 100% coverage is to reduce risk of a frost pocket where the slab isnt bonded to the mortar and that popping the tile off. But once grouted, water ingress should be low. Great tutorial though!
Youre absolutely fine. I've just mentioned the slurry is so strong it's not necessary. Leave 50mm around edges - as you say, to avoid transferring it everywhere. It's a nightmare to clean if missed. 👍
Best informative and constructive porcelain patio prep and installation video ever, thank you so much. When do we need to put a drainage between lawns and patio? Is it a must? Thanks
It's such a skill to lay this stuff. And costs an absolute fortune. Looks stunning when done properly like in this video. I'd recommend any DIY people thinking about having a bash at this.... Think again
Haha.thats literally me now after laying 3 slabs with the wrong Priming slurry recommended by tile.giant .. currently chipping out 3 tiles worth of mortar
@@mateuszliana9258 so I was sold mapei eco prim and the first three popped over night. (Phoned mapei and they said i was misssold it) So after starting again I used ultrascape pro Priming slurry and that actually works. About 20 quid for a bag that will do about 20 square meters
@@davidplatel3815interestingly I opted for the Ultrascape pro and it's been fine. The Mapei you were told to use seems to be OK for non porcelain ceramics where the water absorption is a little higher but no mention as far as I could see for porcelain. It's a little more than 20 quid a bag now! As is everything.
Hi Stephen, thanks for the feedback. To answer your question, all Pavestone porcelain is rated a minimum of R11. This is a industry grading which determines the slip resistance. What you will find is that porcelain paving is non porous. This means that naturally occurring algae's and moss, which are one of the reasons for making paving slippery, will not settle on the paving if installed correctly. Therefore, the risk of slipping when when wet is far less that other paving types. I mentioned if installed correctly and that refers to the fall of the paving. This should be an industry standard 1:60 which will allow for surface water to run off. I hope that this answers your question. Mark.
Never “rough” up the mortar bed, always lay to a flat bed, this stops any voids that may be created and give a nice flat surface to the bottom of the tile
My daughter had a porcelain patio fitted last week. It's awful. I don't think they used spacers because all the gaps are different. Some tiles have been cut too short and the gaps filled with cement. Can this mess be rectified? It was not cheap!
My garden is very similar to the one in the video and I would like to have the same type of paving. Is planning permission required for this? Thank you
My only question is on the step obviously you need to be below dpc level 150 mm but your step is not have you got a gap behind the step to allow for air flow etc ?
I’ve got a concrete slab up the end of the garden. With the 20mm porcelain I want to put over it, can I use less depth on the cement ??? I only have enough room for 20mm of cement
Great Video. I prepared concrete bese 100mm high with steel mesh for my porcelane tiles, Is it recomended do use Priming Slurry on the concrete Base or just on Tiles?
@@bilpat5123 Hi, the paving on the video is our Discovery Origin Grande. Here’s the link to the product in our website. www.pavestone.co.uk/garden-landscaping/porcelain-patio-paving/discovery-porcelain/ Please contact us on 01386 848650 if you require anymore information or a free sample. Mark.
I have been laying patios for around 15 years and am yet to lay pordelin flags. I went to quote a job today where they want to use them, I told them they have to have a concrete slab laid first and lay the flags on top of that, unlike all the other rpatioss I have done using regular stone flags etc. I see you are laying on a regular base though. I assumed from other advice ages ago they had to be on a concrete base, glad to see you do not.
Hi, I'm in the north east - please can you recommend a good business who can do my patio? It's so worrying trying to find people who aren't cowboys when you are paying out such a lot of money
Hi Maria. Just go to our website and key in your postcode to find a selection of landscapers close to you. Link here: www.pavestone.co.uk/highlighted-landscapers/
I wasn’t asking for opinions I was just stating what I would have done. I live in California Los Angeles to be specific so we have a lot of movement. I would had based it and still formed a base for it.
@@amezcua239 well we were bright enough not to build city’s on fault lines so don’t have that issue here 😂only jokes by the way please don’t be offended 👍
Hi Alan. There are many factors to take into consideration here. Are you working alone or do you have someone to apply the priming slurry, are there any cuts to do, is the paving near the area to be paved ? If you can provide a bit more information and I will try and help answer your question. Mark
@@markbrown9076 Hi Mark, the slabs are to replace the concrete slabs which had been in place for a number of years. The site is clear and the base is compacted and ready for the pavers to be laid. The mortar will need to be wheel barrowed approx 5m, the planks are at the patio base where they will be slurried and laid on the mortar bed the slabs will be laid in 12 rows of 7 end to end with 6 slabs being cut at 600mm to give a staggered effect when laid. There will be one semi skilled layer and help given by applying the slurry to the slabs
@@alanmitchell2661 Hi Alan, thanks for the info. I would estimate a couple of days to lay the paving. This is an estimate as a some professional installers could lay the paving quicker. Throughout the process its essential to check the falls and the levels of the paving as you are bedding it down. I hope that this helps to answer your question. Mark
How do you decide how to lay the first slab? If I have an area that’s 4m across and 60cm long slab, do you lay the slab at 2m with 30cm slab on either side?
@@pavestonetv2587 hi, thanks for your response, yes. I've never used it before. Also how much more difficult are these to lay compared to standard patio flags? Cheers
Great video and job does anyone have any experience laying with packs of 295mm x 295mm, 295mm x 600mm, 600mm x 600mm, and 900mm x 600mm, and getting the right joint widths?
Hi Rick, and I'm pleased to hear that you enjoyed the video. From the description of the paving I assume you're laying Natural Sandstone paving ? As it's a natural product there will always be some tolerance on the joints. This will involve moving individual slabs around very slightly as you lay the paving to accommodate each slab in the pattern. If you are trying to achieve a more consistent joint between the paving then I recommend looking at the fantastic range of Pavestone Porcelain paving. This link will take you to the range. www.pavestone.co.uk/garden-landscaping/porcelain-patio-paving/ I hope that this has answered your question. Mark
Hi, there are so many different blades on the market. For me personally I use the Abracs range of blades or Pulvex. Both company's can be found online. Remember to keep the blade dressed. This means cleaning all the slurry that settles in the diamonds on the blade. You may think you need a new blade when really it just needs a clean. Mark.
Hello 👋🙋♂️there.. Amazing and very interesting video🎥.. Super like👌👌👌 project Good information very helpful🎥 Do keep posting Warm regards and best👍💯 wishes The UnknownManCub 👍😎👨🏭
Hope you enjoyed the video Kyle ? It's essential to go right to the edge to ensure that Pavestone Priming Slurry's unique strength works on the whole of the slab not just the middle. As I often say "The only way is the right way."
You went to all that trouble and didnt use any geo textile under your crush before compacting!!!probably one of the most important stages in the job and you didnt do it!!😅
If I have paving slabs down already and they are fixed solid and don't move when walked on can I use them as the base and just add porcelain tiles on top?
Yes. The only thing you have to worry about is the height to DPC but a stone trough could be used against house, and ensuring the base of the patio you’re laying on is sound. Quite often the case is it’s been poorly laid hence the new patio. If it’s down well and solid then you’ll struggle to match years of gravity and being walked on making it solid to lay on
You shouldn't rough up the bed on porcelain. They need a full flat bed of mortar. Water will get under it, freeze in winter and then expand which will lift the slab. Get the mortar down and smooth it out with a good layer of slurry on the slab otherwise most of the slurry you put on is pointless.
And what about all the insects? Do you remove them 'humanely' or just not bother and remove them along with the soil etc. thus killing most of them while stepping on them?
The correct way is without mortar like they do in Italy or Spain where it doesn't go green with alge or moss, they screed a 4 to 6 mm stone then lay dry similar to block paving, if you use mortar you have to treat the back of the tile because its non porous which means the mortar won't stick which makes it messy expensive and time consuming just to lay
Of all the dozens of videos I’ve watched to get a bank of knowledge on how to do this, this has to be the most explained, most informative and easy to follow video. Well done chaps.
Thank you! :-)
Best video I’ve found online with no stages missed
Well thats good news! 🙂
Brilliant video, Thank you for making this so easy to understand. Im feeling much more confident about doing this myself now.
I'm about to attempt this myself in a couple of weeks so ive been trying to learn as much as possible from RUclips. This is the best guide ive cone across, thanks for posting
It is not let me give you a piece of advice hire a proffesional and save your self the headaches and extra cost 🤣🤣🤣🤣
How did it go!?
@@Neo-mw1pp took me a lot longer than the guys on these landscaping videos but I got it done. Ended up having to dig down 400mm as the ground was so bad (blue clay). I installed land drains to help with drainage and linked them to main drains. Felt like giving up many times but I got it done in the end and saved a fortune. We've had heavy rain/bad frost recently and I've not had any slabs "popping" and not a single puddle. I'm made up with it. looking forward to good weather so I can enjoy a beer out there.
@@Rockwell21 The joys lol, well done... always worth it in the end! 👍🍻
@@Rockwell21well done - there have been many opportunities to enjoy a beer on your nice new patio now :) I'm thinking of doing the same as you, do you have any other tips or videos that helped you?
This is an excellent video showing all aspects of the installation process. As a professional landscaper myself it is so refreshing to see a manufacturer giving this information about their products. Everyone should watch this video before attempting to lay a porcelain patio. Great work
I have watched so many of these this morning and I could've saved the time by watching this. This really is excellent. Well thought out beforehand, just enough illustrations and text included and executed very well. Others take note, this is what we want to see for an instructional video. Well done
Excellent tutorial, very easy on the mind,
Thank you for the feedback Declan.
@@jamesshanks7605 thank you for the feedback.
Top video simple to follow great tips. Best one I’ve watched so now it’s my turn to lay my 220+ porcelain slabs.
@SKYMAN2302 How did it turn out after
Excellent video with comprehensive information. I've never come across with any video like this. Thank you
Hi, We are pleased that you found the video helpful and thank you for the feedback which I will share with the team. Mark
The best Video I've seen yet .
Get video! Wish all diy videos be this good! Thanks
What a great video and detailed explanation. The end result is stunning too
Excellent series!
Thanks just what I needed to learn
I’ve decided to start a paving business after i had quotes for £4000 labour for 2-3 days work!
And than you decided it was a bad idea after having a sore body for the next 7 days .😅
Absolutely brilliant video thank you very much for sharing.
Thank you for the feedback Frank. Mark
Why can't all DIY videos be like this one? Informative, to the point and easy to understand. Thank you.
Thank you!
I've laid porcelain for years and used priming slurry. Trust me that stuff is so strong you do not need to go the edges. Leave a 50mm space to the edge. Stops you transferring it everywhere when you pick up the slabs. You will make a huge mess and that stuff is a nightmare to clean up. Also you do not want it too thick.
When cutting the porcelain the best options are.
1. Large table cutter
2. 4 inch grinder with correct blade for intricate cuts. I.e. around recessed drains.
3. Do not use a petrol cutter. It does not rotate quick enough and will heavily chip slabs.
For grouting. Make the grout into a toothpaste consistency. If it is too wet or too dry it is a huge race to clean up on a warm day and does not bond if too dry.
Buy a washboy for cleaning the porcelain. It's essential for a professional finish.
Happy laying.
It’s funny because I just watched an instagram video of a guy saying put primer on thick. The information is so conflicting as always
You can put it on thick if you want to, but it's not necessary. The correct slurry is so strong that you can put it on however you like. You can also use a cheap exterior adhesive watered down to a paint like viscosity and it has the same effect.
Brilliant video 👍👍👍
Excellent stuff thanks for making this
Glad you enjoyed the video ! Mark
1 in 60? 2nd bubble line Holy hell thats too steep! I got taught 1 in 80! First line!
I've laid plently of patios and they all look nice and drain well.
I think it’s excessive to av done 50 patios with five different building companies look like a ski slope man 60 mm hard core more than enough too 😂
I started doing my patio with a 1:60 slope. I couldn't finish and I asked help to a landscaper. He came and said the same: 1:60 is way too much.
SEEK THE TRUTH
The BEST VIDEO YET!
AMEN
Surprised you didn’t put geotextile membrane between soil and type 1.
I have put porcelain tiles up in a bathroom had to prime the back of the tile with the mix to take the dust off, without it the dust on the back of the tile sticks to the adhesive and the tile can fall off. You had to apply and push the mix and that rolled the dust into the mix. It would appear there is a primer adhesive now makes sense. I slipped a thumbs edge of near the edge otherwise when you press in and level the mix it came out the joints and needed clearing for the grouting while wet. Do not let it set before you clear it or you will chip the edges. That was the recommendations at the time. Also used a combed continuous layer combed to the shortest width of tile to allow air to escape. I used tile spacers that protrudes and use plastic wedges to flatten the surface. You have to use a cement adhesive not tubbed tile grout for ordinary tiles, that will not dry properly. Five dabs and a level is a bodge always has been always will be!
great video thanks.
Thanks for the feedback Billy. Mark
Good job very impressive 👌.
Thanks for the feedback. Mark
Excellent video
One of best!
Fantastic video, thanks for posting
Hi Mike, Thanks for the feedback and we are pleased that you enjoyed the video. I will pass your feedback to the team. Mark
Clear and perfect explanation super
well done
Great video. I need to do this in my house. Although I thought a mesh like thing needed to be laid down to prevent weeds
Although it's more difficult to complete the job than appears in the video, you'll struggle to find a more informative tutorial than that.
9:26
Looks stunning
Interested to know why it's absolutely necessary to put primer all the way to the edge? I'd have thought that 90% coverage would be more than enough. I left an inch around the edge of mine primarily to avoid getting it on gloves or have it come out the joint gap when hammering in. I found it tended to spreas out all the way anyway. The only reason I can think that youd need 100% coverage is to reduce risk of a frost pocket where the slab isnt bonded to the mortar and that popping the tile off. But once grouted, water ingress should be low. Great tutorial though!
Youre absolutely fine. I've just mentioned the slurry is so strong it's not necessary. Leave 50mm around edges - as you say, to avoid transferring it everywhere. It's a nightmare to clean if missed. 👍
Beautiful work! How do we deal with draining system?
Best informative and constructive porcelain patio prep and installation video ever, thank you so much. When do we need to put a drainage between lawns and patio? Is it a must? Thanks
good informational video, thanks
You can use tile adhesive and skim the back works out alot cheaper and probably easier to apply with a 6mm notch trowel
It's such a skill to lay this stuff. And costs an absolute fortune. Looks stunning when done properly like in this video. I'd recommend any DIY people thinking about having a bash at this.... Think again
Haha.thats literally me now after laying 3 slabs with the wrong Priming slurry recommended by tile.giant .. currently chipping out 3 tiles worth of mortar
@@davidplatel3815 what is wrong with it? I am currently lying my own patio and I am about to buy priming slurry in the next couple of days
@@mateuszliana9258 so I was sold mapei eco prim and the first three popped over night. (Phoned mapei and they said i was misssold it) So after starting again I used ultrascape pro Priming slurry and that actually works. About 20 quid for a bag that will do about 20 square meters
@@davidplatel3815interestingly I opted for the Ultrascape pro and it's been fine. The Mapei you were told to use seems to be OK for non porcelain ceramics where the water absorption is a little higher but no mention as far as I could see for porcelain. It's a little more than 20 quid a bag now! As is everything.
Brilliant thank you
Great information & beautiful results! Thank you. Does porcelain get slippery when wet?
Hi Stephen, thanks for the feedback. To answer your question, all Pavestone porcelain is rated a minimum of R11. This is a industry grading which determines the slip resistance. What you will find is that porcelain paving is non porous. This means that naturally occurring algae's and moss, which are one of the reasons for making paving slippery, will not settle on the paving if installed correctly. Therefore, the risk of slipping when when wet is far less that other paving types. I mentioned if installed correctly and that refers to the fall of the paving. This should be an industry standard 1:60 which will allow for surface water to run off. I hope that this answers your question. Mark.
SBR and cement make a good slurry.
Dose the damp proof course applies for the Caribbean
Os this better thank.sika sand done my garden 2 years ago and it's all coming out so need to.clear all joints and re point
Never “rough” up the mortar bed, always lay to a flat bed, this stops any voids that may be created and give a nice flat surface to the bottom of the tile
How long did this whole job take?
Ive seen other videos with 50mm subbase
My daughter had a porcelain patio fitted last week. It's awful. I don't think they used spacers because all the gaps are different. Some tiles have been cut too short and the gaps filled with cement. Can this mess be rectified? It was not cheap!
My garden is very similar to the one in the video and I would like to have the same type of paving. Is planning permission required for this? Thank you
My only question is on the step obviously you need to be below dpc level 150 mm but your step is not have you got a gap behind the step to allow for air flow etc ?
I’ve got a concrete slab up the end of the garden. With the 20mm porcelain I want to put over it, can I use less depth on the cement ??? I only have enough room for 20mm of cement
Great Video.
I prepared concrete bese 100mm high with steel mesh for my porcelane tiles, Is it recomended do use Priming Slurry on the concrete Base or just on Tiles?
Really nice video!
One thougt…
Isn’t steel reinforcement needed to prevent cracking?
Hi all,
I was just wondering if anyone knew the rough cost of the work done on this video? My patio is about 30 square metres.
Thanks
Will the cement and adhesive mentioned in video work for 4 season weather with freezing winter in the USA?
What is the name of the tiles installed in this video
@@bilpat5123 Hi, the paving on the video is our Discovery Origin Grande. Here’s the link to the product in our website. www.pavestone.co.uk/garden-landscaping/porcelain-patio-paving/discovery-porcelain/
Please contact us on 01386 848650 if you require anymore information or a free sample. Mark.
Love it , apart from the fake grass
I have been laying patios for around 15 years and am yet to lay pordelin flags. I went to quote a job today where they want to use them, I told them they have to have a concrete slab laid first and lay the flags on top of that, unlike all the other rpatioss I have done using regular stone flags etc. I see you are laying on a regular base though. I assumed from other advice ages ago they had to be on a concrete base, glad to see you do not.
I garentee you there is voids in the cement under this porcelain.
i thought exactly the same, and looks way too wet a mix
How many primer slurry mixes would I need for 22m2?
What about membrane
Can I have a link for that porcelain patio please?
How long , after mixing is the grout usable and how long can you leave the excess grout on the paving before wiping off ( complete beginner )
If you watched the video properly you would know 🙄
Hi, I'm in the north east - please can you recommend a good business who can do my patio? It's so worrying trying to find people who aren't cowboys when you are paying out such a lot of money
Hi Maria. Just go to our website and key in your postcode to find a selection of landscapers close to you. Link here: www.pavestone.co.uk/highlighted-landscapers/
FYI I don’t see the need for a big bed of adhesive providing you get the levels right
I like the idea of having crushed rock /gravel compacted & stuff but I think forming a concrete base what have been much stronger
Stronger than it would need to be and much more expensive.
Why does it need to be stronger? You're not driving cars on it.
MOT type 1 is extremely strong and hardwearing after being compacted…
I wasn’t asking for opinions I was just stating what I would have done. I live in California Los Angeles to be specific so we have a lot of movement. I would had based it and still formed a base for it.
@@amezcua239 well we were bright enough not to build city’s on fault lines so don’t have that issue here 😂only jokes by the way please don’t be offended 👍
Can anyone tell me on average how long would it take to lay 84 1200 x 300 pank pavers on a 50mm mortar bed , base already prepared.
Hi Alan. There are many factors to take into consideration here. Are you working alone or do you have someone to apply the priming slurry, are there any cuts to do, is the paving near the area to be paved ? If you can provide a bit more information and I will try and help answer your question. Mark
@@markbrown9076 Hi Mark, the slabs are to replace the concrete slabs which had been in place for a number of years. The site is clear and the base is compacted and ready for the pavers to be laid. The mortar will need to be wheel barrowed approx 5m, the planks are at the patio base where they will be slurried and laid on the mortar bed the slabs will be laid in 12 rows of 7 end to end with 6 slabs being cut at 600mm to give a staggered effect when laid. There will be one semi skilled layer and help given by applying the slurry to the slabs
@@alanmitchell2661 Hi Alan, thanks for the info. I would estimate a couple of days to lay the paving. This is an estimate as a some professional installers could lay the paving quicker. Throughout the process its essential to check the falls and the levels of the paving as you are bedding it down. I hope that this helps to answer your question. Mark
@@markbrown9076 Thanks for that Mark that's a great help..
nice
How to grout outdoor porcelain tile on a concrete slab
When determining the fall/gradient, must the pegs be of equal length and the same length hammered into the ground?
Yeah this is confusing
Does anybody use Terram on sub-base ?
Fantastic, but no drainage for such a large area..?
Runs to the lawn.
How do you decide how to lay the first slab? If I have an area that’s 4m across and 60cm long slab, do you lay the slab at 2m with 30cm slab on either side?
Mark the center of your first slab and Mark the center of the area you are laying and just match the 2 marks
how long does the glue last before setting?? and will simply mixing it keep it usable for extended periods of time?
Good morning, can i ask when you mention "glue" do you mean the Priming Slurry ? Mark
@@pavestonetv2587 hi, thanks for your response, yes. I've never used it before. Also how much more difficult are these to lay compared to standard patio flags? Cheers
Great video and job does anyone have any experience laying with packs of 295mm x 295mm, 295mm x 600mm, 600mm x 600mm, and 900mm x 600mm, and getting the right joint widths?
Hi Rick, and I'm pleased to hear that you enjoyed the video. From the description of the paving I assume you're laying Natural Sandstone paving ? As it's a natural product there will always be some tolerance on the joints. This will involve moving individual slabs around very slightly as you lay the paving to accommodate each slab in the pattern. If you are trying to achieve a more consistent joint between the paving then I recommend looking at the fantastic range of Pavestone Porcelain paving. This link will take you to the range. www.pavestone.co.uk/garden-landscaping/porcelain-patio-paving/
I hope that this has answered your question. Mark
Lay a slab to falls then exterior tile adhesive 🤷♂️
What blade do you use on your petrol stihl saw please?
Hi, there are so many different blades on the market. For me personally I use the Abracs range of blades or Pulvex. Both company's can be found online. Remember to keep the blade dressed. This means cleaning all the slurry that settles in the diamonds on the blade. You may think you need a new blade when really it just needs a clean. Mark.
I’ve found laying on a screed lasts longer if done correctly
Hello 👋🙋♂️there..
Amazing and very interesting video🎥.. Super like👌👌👌 project
Good information very helpful🎥
Do keep posting
Warm regards and best👍💯 wishes
The UnknownManCub 👍😎👨🏭
What make is this tile? Where can I get it
Maybe mention if using a power drill it should be protected by an RCD/RCBO
Hi Graham, thanks for the comment. We will review the video and carry out any changes to cover the use of 240v equipment. Mark
The only video I've seen where anyone has actually put the slurry mix to the edge of the underside of the slab..
Hope you enjoyed the video Kyle ? It's essential to go right to the edge to ensure that Pavestone Priming Slurry's unique strength works on the whole of the slab not just the middle. As I often say "The only way is the right way."
Can the first tile go against the brick?
Can i lay this sort of tile over a brick paver patio? I appreciate everyones opinion
Hi no you can't if the pavers sink over time it'll crack the slab
@@nadiamontague722 thank you. I have brick pavers and here in South Florida its hard to find someone who does this
@@jlopes16 I'm England otherwise I'd of given you a price on the job lol but yh take everything up n start from the base layer up
Wow now I feel sleepy
You should compact the type 1 in layers of 50mm not the whole depth….
Minimum 50mm mortar aswell.
On 100mm it won’t make the slightest difference
You went to all that trouble and didnt use any geo textile under your crush before compacting!!!probably one of the most important stages in the job and you didnt do it!!😅
Ive seen it all i guess they dont sell trowels in england you guys back butter tiles with a brush ?? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍👍👍
It’s a slurry though.
If I have paving slabs down already and they are fixed solid and don't move when walked on can I use them as the base and just add porcelain tiles on top?
Yea thinking the same mate
Yes. The only thing you have to worry about is the height to DPC but a stone trough could be used against house, and ensuring the base of the patio you’re laying on is sound. Quite often the case is it’s been poorly laid hence the new patio. If it’s down well and solid then you’ll struggle to match years of gravity and being walked on making it solid to lay on
Loved the tutorial, but the final design, in my opinion is bad. Fake grass, not for me. Too much paving on the side for my liking.
You shouldn't rough up the bed on porcelain. They need a full flat bed of mortar. Water will get under it, freeze in winter and then expand which will lift the slab. Get the mortar down and smooth it out with a good layer of slurry on the slab otherwise most of the slurry you put on is pointless.
Looks a good job 👍. So sterile for my taste, no wonder the nature is suffering.
Aaah i AM in hell of tilefail
always use a weed control i prefer building sand but decent video
And what about all the insects? Do you remove them 'humanely' or just not bother and remove them along with the soil etc. thus killing most of them while stepping on them?
Forget in call the professionals to do it!
Would not fly in a Canadian climate
That’s how I lay, it’ll last forever.
The builder who did my patio I'm purcilin did not use slurry primer ???? Any advice
Uh oh my American brain is having to calculate from meters 🤯
😂😂
The correct way is without mortar like they do in Italy or Spain where it doesn't go green with alge or moss, they screed a 4 to 6 mm stone then lay dry similar to block paving, if you use mortar you have to treat the back of the tile because its non porous which means the mortar won't stick which makes it messy expensive and time consuming just to lay
Isn't this why you use a primer underneath? Wet mix far better for standing the test of time
The method in the video will last forever.