It's been over a year since installation. Can you upload an updated video or let me know on how the installation is holding on. I am also thinking laying mine like this but in 2 minds?
how do you deal with dry laying around a pool deck where all 4 sides slope in different directions? at each corner of pool to outside deck area tile rocks or wobbles
Hi, Thanks for this video, I have paver sandstone 60 cm x 60 cm x 2 cm. How much depth of paver sand you think I should put in. I was thinking 2 cm deep. Also If you can share that after adding road base does it have to be 100 % level..? as I am not able to get it 100 % level & I was thinking it can be rectified when I put paver sand to level few spots here and there. Please suggest.
Yes, That’s pretty much with most installations on you tube lol ..I will mix mortar and install the tiles the right way let is dry and use grout the next day , no plastic , no fabric , no sand , just good crushed and compacted stone base is all you need
Many of you are stating only mortar be used to lay porcelain pavers. If that’s not an option, what’s wrong with using crushed rocks / gravel as the base? The reason I don’t want to use sand is because that will attract ants.
Nothing's wrong with using a crushed rock base it is certainly cheaper then using a steel reinforced concrete base. I'd put a bed of mortar underneath the pavers instead of sand.
@@ashkrikorian5753 don't make the whole patio level you have to slope so the water will run off. using a 1:100 ratio down here in Australia for example every 1 meter there's a 1cm drop at one end making sure it slopes away from the house.
@@YallBitchezAintShit The proper way is 100-150mm sub-base then lay porcelain paviors on a wet mortar bed each slab underside needs to be coated with SBR or slurry to improve adhesion then finally grout the gaps between the slabs.
@@deemdoubleu porcelain should be laid of a compacted base of type 1 or concrete, a mortor bed with a priming slurry applied to the back of them before being laid. The method in this video is suitable for block paving but definitely not paving slabs, especially porcelain.
@@hclandscapes Have you got a reference for that? It's not what they do on the continent where they have been using these for ever. The method I have often seen on holiday in Cyprus for example is concrete base and tile adhesive (paving expert.com's preferred method). I don't think you would ever see them using a wet bed. I'm not knocking what you say or saying it is wrong or won't work and clearly it's what a lot of landscapers do in the UK since porcelain has become a thing but I am saying that the manufacturers recommend various methods and dry laying on gravel or sand is one of them. If you're saying it is wrong then please explain why.
@@deemdoubleu my reference is myself, im a professional landscape gardener and have been laying paving for 20 years. The company's that provide 2cm exterior porcelain wouldn't guarantee their product unless it was laid exactly to there specification. This laying method on here is fine for block paving or very heavy thick traditional flag stone paving. Laying these 20mm slabs/tiles on dry sand just isn't good enough and they will move over time.
Shocking! Never lay porcelain pavers like this (or any paving slab for that matter), total waste of money. Very first time someone walks on it it will be f%cked, guaranteed. Smh
If you would have added cement into the sand that you put down and primer on the slabs this would actually have worked well but yeah so far as I'm concerned that was totally incorrect. Clearly this method has been over engineered by a guy who couldn't be assed bending over.
This method will probably work with the gravel bed method if the gravel is laid evenly compacted and laid on a perfect plane. But who can achieve this level of perfection....if a perfect job is desired go for mortar bed. I'm 60 yrs... laying slabs all my adult life...
Waist of time and material , compact the soil very well mix some mortar and lay the tiles done ✅ why you make everything so complicated In the usa ? Why 4 different materials under the tiles ? Who cares it’s outdoor ?
@@hossknot It all depends on the type of tile , I found success just pouring a concrete base first wait 5 to 7 days than tile on it with outdoor tile adhesive, or compact the ground very well with a layer of crushed stones wet it well with water to make sure it’s very well compacted , than mix regular mortar and lay your tiles directly , this is used with mostly porcelain tiles , Again I am not a expert but most of these contractors are full of ... They want you to spend as much money as you can don’t do it ,
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Totally agree. That's how do not to lay porcelain slabs
Thanks to the comments, i was going to go with this method. Also if i use motar and the end meet grass how do i brace the tiles from chipping
It's been over a year since installation. Can you upload an updated video or let me know on how the installation is holding on. I am also thinking laying mine like this but in 2 minds?
Lol 😂
how do you deal with dry laying around a pool deck where all 4 sides slope in different directions? at each corner of pool to outside deck area tile rocks or wobbles
did your compacted sub base extend past the porcelain pavers? And what did you use for your border? Grass?
Is this a joke?
Glad to see some real pros on here debunking this ridiculous method of installation.
why not use mortar?
Hi, Thanks for this video, I have paver sandstone 60 cm x 60 cm x 2 cm. How much depth of paver sand you think I should put in. I was thinking 2 cm deep. Also If you can share that after adding road base does it have to be 100 % level..? as I am not able to get it 100 % level & I was thinking it can be rectified when I put paver sand to level few spots here and there. Please suggest.
They were rocking when he tamped them. Not good.
Are they slippery when wet
They all have a special outdoor finish, its sprinkled in the glazed when baked, that makes them highly skid resistant...
You can see the slabs moving up and down when he’s using the mallet 😂, can use it as a trampoline but not as a patio
🤣
Yes, That’s pretty much with most installations on you tube lol ..I will mix mortar and install the tiles the right way let is dry and use grout the next day , no plastic , no fabric , no sand , just good crushed and compacted stone base is all you need
That is like putting a silk hat on a pig and a 50mm compacted sub-base first downpour and that patio will be floating down the road.
For the nex project 👍🏻
Is there a particular size I should get with the spacers?
Each manufacturer and there are rectified and non rectified types of tiles that would govern the space size...
@@zapsupplies thank you
thank you
Many of you are stating only mortar be used to lay porcelain pavers. If that’s not an option, what’s wrong with using crushed rocks / gravel as the base? The reason I don’t want to use sand is because that will attract ants.
Nothing's wrong with using a crushed rock base it is certainly cheaper then using a steel reinforced concrete base. I'd put a bed of mortar underneath the pavers instead of sand.
Ashod, I can’t believe I came across you in the comments on this video! -Cousin Gary
@@tonesgaming1012 my issue is drainage, if its all mortal the water will stay on the surface and puddle
@@garym.5931 Hey hey!
@@ashkrikorian5753 don't make the whole patio level you have to slope so the water will run off. using a 1:100 ratio down here in Australia for example every 1 meter there's a 1cm drop at one end making sure it slopes away from the house.
Thats how NOT to lay porcelain paving!!
Wesley Hallitt what’s the proper way?
@@YallBitchezAintShit The proper way is 100-150mm sub-base then lay porcelain paviors on a wet mortar bed each slab underside needs to be coated with SBR or slurry to improve adhesion then finally grout the gaps between the slabs.
I’m crying after I saw all this tools and finish it like that I can do it 100 times better than that just using my hand 🤚 and some basic tools 🛠
Everyone is saying this is not the correct way to lay porcelain pavers. Can someone explain why it’s wrong so I don’t do it?
Any paver that thin should not be dry laid. Regardless of base prep and edger the stone will always teeter.
@@mrbigtuna240 It's as recommended by manufacturers e.g. www.marazzitile.co.uk/installation/laying-20mm/ If you think they are wrong, tell them.
@@deemdoubleu porcelain should be laid of a compacted base of type 1 or concrete, a mortor bed with a priming slurry applied to the back of them before being laid. The method in this video is suitable for block paving but definitely not paving slabs, especially porcelain.
@@hclandscapes Have you got a reference for that? It's not what they do on the continent where they have been using these for ever. The method I have often seen on holiday in Cyprus for example is concrete base and tile adhesive (paving expert.com's preferred method). I don't think you would ever see them using a wet bed. I'm not knocking what you say or saying it is wrong or won't work and clearly it's what a lot of landscapers do in the UK since porcelain has become a thing but I am saying that the manufacturers recommend various methods and dry laying on gravel or sand is one of them. If you're saying it is wrong then please explain why.
@@deemdoubleu my reference is myself, im a professional landscape gardener and have been laying paving for 20 years.
The company's that provide 2cm exterior porcelain wouldn't guarantee their product unless it was laid exactly to there specification.
This laying method on here is fine for block paving or very heavy thick traditional flag stone paving.
Laying these 20mm slabs/tiles on dry sand just isn't good enough and they will move over time.
Shocking! Never lay porcelain pavers like this (or any paving slab for that matter), total waste of money. Very first time someone walks on it it will be f%cked, guaranteed. Smh
The invisible supports & good drainage make it work
Where did you find these clowns???? Everything is just wrong!
That will last about a day .
If you would have added cement into the sand that you put down and primer on the slabs this would actually have worked well but yeah so far as I'm concerned that was totally incorrect.
Clearly this method has been over engineered by a guy who couldn't be assed bending over.
This method will probably work with the gravel bed method if the gravel is laid evenly compacted and laid on a perfect plane. But who can achieve this level of perfection....if a perfect job is desired go for mortar bed. I'm 60 yrs... laying slabs all my adult life...
Fucking rough!
Waist of time and material , compact the soil very well mix some mortar and lay the tiles done ✅ why you make everything so complicated In the usa ? Why 4 different materials under the tiles ? Who cares it’s outdoor ?
Should i lay the tile in the wet mortar or level it with a slope, let it dry and cure, and then lay the tile on top? Thnx!
@@hossknot It all depends on the type of tile , I found success just pouring a concrete base first wait 5 to 7 days than tile on it with outdoor tile adhesive, or compact the ground very well with a layer of crushed stones wet it well with water to make sure it’s very well compacted , than mix regular mortar and lay your tiles directly , this is used with mostly porcelain tiles , Again I am not a expert but most of these contractors are full of ... They want you to spend as much money as you can don’t do it ,
@@Entrepreneurusa thank you!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I don’t recommend it 😢
🤣
Useless
This doesn't look right to me 😂