I tiled a behind the bar area in my parents home 42 years ago. It was a 4x8 clay tile and I put it directly to the concrete. As advertised, the concrete cracked. Dad never did anything and the crack is still there today. But the tile which cracked, has never broken free from the concrete.
For me, the ideas in ruclips.net/user/postUgkxAfqpMLyFn37qcqUl0FAzqkkycQeXqrhP Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
Decoupling membranes work great and are easier to install. One limitation worth pointing out is they should not be used with small format tiles smaller than 2"x2".
Matt is just a shamwow infomercial guy 90% of the time. Durock this week, ditra next week. Wouldn’t be surprised if there is a rep just off camera coaching.
I've used them all except usg. I'll have to try it matt. I love all these Matt's especially for the uncoupling and waterproofing. And the ease of putting it down . Thanks for sharing Matt as always appreciated
I removed all the old carpet in our house in 2017 and laid 6”X36” tile planks over the existing slab and haven’t had any tiles crack so far. 1968 home.
Oh man! Wish I had known about this before having our tile installed in our house. We've had stuff from water, to cement salts, etc seeping through. Such a pain.
Your foundation has water soaking into it from somewhere. If you had used this, you would just be putting a bandaid on it, causing more problems in the long term. Get your foundation checked out, if you haven't already. I've run into customers with this problem quite a few times already.
@@JB-yq9bn I'm always the student in regards the custom building trades. Always looking for a better way in building practices. Also a few months ago completed a custom master bathroom with large curbless shower with updated technology and knowledge. I'm the kind of person who enjoys geeking out in building science 😂
@@mabolzichjjl I'd argue that, say a 2000' house saves $200/month in utility costs. Your ROI on that million dollar house is decades. With interest rates the way they are, you'll never really pay for it in efficiency savings. Sure the finishes are top notch, I don't deny its beauty, but much of it stops there, most of it is a luxury.
@@pyroman590 Yeah, I hear you. Matt does a great job of showing the options and the advantages/disadvantages. You can pick and choose your house receipe 100's of different ways.
I’ve used Schluter and believe in the concept for indoor use. I like the idea of less expensive alternatives such as this, especially for outdoor paving. I’m far enough north that I would use unglazed quarry tile or natural stone on top of it, but Matt’s outdoor fireplace area looks very nice.
@@timothykeith1367 Lancaster California public library. I don't have images. I noticed the technique right after it opened many years ago. Never left my head, I thought it was a brilliant idea.
The real problem is excessive water in the concrete mix. Concrete does not have to crack except concrete placement "professionals" are prone to add excessive water for ease of workability at the jobsite which is directly related to excessive cracking. I've watched this practice increase excessively for over 60 years. Such cracking can be avoided with the proper admixtures and/or methods in placing concrete. As concrete cures, water is evaporated into the atmosphere. The results is a volume reduction and thusly a reduction in the requisite solids and cracked concrete.
@@OUrVileO ...plasticizors are a "crutch" to jobsite added water. The sub has no idea what they are or what they can do. He's only thinking how he can get his role done with as soon a possible. Every notice the quality of concrete subs these days? Don't even speak English.
Your tilesetters should be keying in the thinset with the flat side of the trowel before spreading out with the notch for better adhesion. I know it's a nitpicky thing but it's the right way to do it.
That product looks great. Any suggestions on how to incorporate radiant floor hot water piping? Where would you put an inch or two or rigid foam, above or below the decoupler?
wow I need this on my kitchen tile floor! they cracked like crazy after this dry summer. Gonna have to redo the whole floor I will definitely be using this. Do they make it for use with electric heating?
I’ve had both at my house and they both have worked well. The Ditra has tons more options/accessories but this USG product is working great on my exterior porches.
All 3 work fine. I use Mapei’s uncoupling membrane cause that is what is in my area available, priced in the middle and has no memory so lays nice and flat.
Thanks you just answered the problem I have been dwelling on for 3 years. I have cracked tiles and tiles coming loose all over my house, which is built on expansive clay soil. The contractor just placed the tiles directly on the concrete floor and it was a bad move.
This is timely. I’ve seen Matt talk about the Schluter Ditra mat before, this is obviously a sponsored video, but I’d be interested to know the differences between them.
Laticrete used to put out a plastic clipped together grid type of uncoupling product about 15" square, used it over structural cracks in concrete has been down for about 25 years without any problems, expensive but brilliant, can't source it here in Australia any longer unfortunately, could be used over timber flooring as well.
I have a front porch and it cracked since we move to the house. It looks terrible, we painted but the paint fell off. we live in a cold weather area with lots of snow in winter. Planning to put tiles or pavers but I do not know what to ask to the landscaper guys or maybe my husband ( who is handy) can do this. I just want to specify: the landscapers are very expensive and snobby in my area, they are only a handful and they want big jobs. I got my patio done after waiting 3 years for a quote, i hired a guy who was out of town. He is retired now. any ideas could help me to do ourselves or keep try with a landscaper. Thanks.
Thank you, Matt. I'm wondering if this would be a good underlayment/insulation/vapor option, for when we pour a room full of floor leveling compound, on a concrete basement floor? 🤔
Looks great!, I got the same thing, I got underfloor heating system, and covered with 6cm concrete but is already cracked, don't know what to do I'll do myself, not professional but I do my best lol, just a question if I put this stuff under the travertin I will lose some heat because this gonna block the heat to heat the tile up?
I installed tile on cracked concrete slab, didn’t do anything to them cracks 5 years ago. Still not a single crack on any of the 300 and something tiles. This is on a patio I live in Dallas Texas. I really wonder if we need all these additives, products and what not. 🤔 I’m sure they are needed in some applications.
I live in Texas, and it gets REALLY hot in the summer, is this still recommended for outdoor use if I wanted to install tile or pavers on my concrete outdoor patio?
Yes, but I would advise to use a membrane that is used in radiant heat. Even if you use any regular decoupling membranethe R-value is less than R- 0.5 so it's not going to be a big insulating problem. Even though, I would still like to hear from others who have had this situation and what they did.
Vapor doesn't come through concrete unless it's at 100% moisture level which would mean it's literally under water. Before installing the tile fill the cracks with polymer base mortar let dry and then lay your tile using a mortar with polymer!
Matt, we bought a tract built townhouse and immediately replaced all the flooring on the slab-on-grade first floor with porcelain tile. Looked amazing! Just sold the home and tile still looked great 4 years later; not a single crack. I watched that flooring obsessively. Why do you think we got away with no cracking? I was thinking to do the same in a new house… now not sure…
Yes, most cementitious leveling products will telegraph any cracks that are already existing in the concrete under it. If using the leveling products on a subfloor they are also prone to cracking so an uncoupling membrane is a must. Übertile übermat is the best uncoupling membrane I've used. It has fleece on both sides to allow for a mechanical bond on both the tile side and substrate side. Schluter ditra at least has dovetails to lock the thinset to the membrane. Thinset does not bond to polyethylene that a lot of these uncoupling membranes are made of. Having said that, I've never seen a tile failure due to this fact.
I'm sure Matt would have a more detailed answer but it really comes down to this. If what you are laying is susceptible to cracking then use a membrane. Tile is very susceptible to cracking . Grout can also easily crack so that is a consideration. You said thin rock. If it were me, I would spend the extra buck per sqft and do it. The advantage that Matt mentioned with this product is you can use either modified or unmodified thin-set. The other brands of membrane are very specific and it may be different than what your tile requires.
really what we are talking about is uneven expansion. The uncoupling layer makes the tile assembly slide as 1 unit. When you take that outside, the movement is times 10 (made up number) The temperature changes are wider and more often. The sublayer can move not just left and right but add up and down. So, it "might" help" but there is no guarantee for the same indoor performance
Can somebody briefly explain the advantage or disadvantage of this type of membrane versus a paintable type such as red gard or mapei paintable crack isolation products?
Hello, I would like to save money by ting over my out door patio. I have no idea what kind of concrete patio this is. I have never seen concrete like this before. Is it possible to save it ?
I don't think this is needed on an "old" stable concrete subfloor. You can use this on a wood subfloor! The Schlutter products are crazy over priced. Good to see they have competition.
My parent’s house is in the Caribbean and is all concrete. 30+ years and not a single cracked tile. I just noticed one small crack on a wall. How is this achieved? My father designed the house and the footing or pad is about 6 feet of solid concrete and everything is extra reinforced. Is that what did the trick? That’s too much to try to replicate but is there a minimum footing that would provide the same effect? Or maybe it was good luck, a good building site? There were no membranes, insulation or barriers used.
Our stand-alone garage has developed some pretty big cracks.. almost crevices. if we got the concrete sanded/graveled and leveled, would this be a good solution to prevent additional movement?
I doubt it would prevent movement since its drifting apart. Are they the same "plane" like you could place a straight edge across it decently? Or is it different heights? Is your floor properly cut for reliefs?
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I tiled a behind the bar area in my parents home 42 years ago. It was a 4x8 clay tile and I put it directly to the concrete. As advertised, the concrete cracked. Dad never did anything and the crack is still there today. But the tile which cracked, has never broken free from the concrete.
It's not about coming loose. It's about unsightly cracks in the finish. Just saying.
Thank you. I’ll be using this on our outdoor patio as well as checking out the waterproof version for a second floor concrete deck
For me, the ideas in ruclips.net/user/postUgkxAfqpMLyFn37qcqUl0FAzqkkycQeXqrhP Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
Decoupling membranes work great and are easier to install. One limitation worth pointing out is they should not be used with small format tiles smaller than 2"x2".
Interesting... thanks for the tip.
@@skellington2000 ditra is a decoupling membrane, they are basically the same thing.
Matt is just a shamwow infomercial guy 90% of the time. Durock this week, ditra next week. Wouldn’t be surprised if there is a rep just off camera coaching.
I've used them all except usg. I'll have to try it matt. I love all these Matt's especially for the uncoupling and waterproofing. And the ease of putting it down .
Thanks for sharing Matt as always appreciated
I removed all the old carpet in our house in 2017 and laid 6”X36” tile planks over the existing slab and haven’t had any tiles crack so far. 1968 home.
Oh man! Wish I had known about this before having our tile installed in our house. We've had stuff from water, to cement salts, etc seeping through. Such a pain.
Your foundation has water soaking into it from somewhere. If you had used this, you would just be putting a bandaid on it, causing more problems in the long term. Get your foundation checked out, if you haven't already. I've run into customers with this problem quite a few times already.
Thanks for this awesome tip, specially diy~ers appreciate this important info
These decoupling membranes really work. They also provide a bit of insulation barrier from the concrete below.
Yep, they do... it's really a must have ! even on ply or osb.
I wonder the impact on a heat load calculation. Currently wrightsoft has no option
@@MicahFunk I'll take it. Anything is a bonus on top of the walls and ceiling. Thanks for the input. I'm curious your background knowing that?
@@JB-yq9bn I'm always the student in regards the custom building trades. Always looking for a better way in building practices. Also a few months ago completed a custom master bathroom with large curbless shower with updated technology and knowledge.
I'm the kind of person who enjoys geeking out in building science 😂
That's a good point, I hadn't thought about it providing a bit of insulation.
I'd like to see someone build a house using nothing but what Matt recommends. I'd bet it comes in well north of $500/ft.
But long term costs and efficiency will pay for it in no time
@@mabolzichjjl I'd argue that, say a 2000' house saves $200/month in utility costs. Your ROI on that million dollar house is decades. With interest rates the way they are, you'll never really pay for it in efficiency savings. Sure the finishes are top notch, I don't deny its beauty, but much of it stops there, most of it is a luxury.
Well . . like anything in life, you can buy a Kia or you can buy a Mercedes. Matt is selling you a Mercedes.
@@crabkilla Sort of, I agree, but in the same breath everything is "affordable". Call and get a window quote from EAS.
@@pyroman590 Yeah, I hear you. Matt does a great job of showing the options and the advantages/disadvantages. You can pick and choose your house receipe 100's of different ways.
Yep, and nearly EVERY builder here (in Austin) applies tile right to the concrete. When I mentioned using Schluter, they said "it's too much".
I’ve used Schluter and believe in the concept for indoor use. I like the idea of less expensive alternatives such as this, especially for outdoor paving. I’m far enough north that I would use unglazed quarry tile or natural stone on top of it, but Matt’s outdoor fireplace area looks very nice.
Place joints in concrere to correspond to grount lines in tile.
Use silicone or butyl rubber where grout joints line up with control joints.
@@aredditor4272 Any examples of this?
@@timothykeith1367 Lancaster California public library. I don't have images. I noticed the technique right after it opened many years ago.
Never left my head, I thought it was a brilliant idea.
It’s overpriced and not necessarily. Use a topical membrane on the cracks and a good modified mortar on the rest of the install. It’ll last decades
If product A is 50% more expensive than product B, this means that product B is 33% cheaper than A. Math.
lol
So a is a better option, get 50 percent more value or loose 33 percent value... science!
@@jamesmarks8099 price does not always determine value.
Back patio?! Why haven’t we seen anything on your patio? It looks amazing
Will this work in freezing weather on a outside slab? Just wondering because cold weather tends to not play well with water.
Can this also be used on wood subfloors, in place of Durock?
Would this be ok with underfloor heating?
Really great product review. Thank you for making it. Maybe include the product with the water proofing next time?
Can I use the thinset over a water based Behr stain on my covered patio?
Thanks for info! what if there are no cracks in the concrete, then I don't need this do I?
i wish they had something like this for engineered hardwood. matt please make a video on EHW on concrete
Is this suitable for use on a basement slab? Thanks.
The real problem is excessive water in the concrete mix. Concrete does not have to crack except concrete placement "professionals" are prone to add excessive water for ease of workability at the jobsite which is directly related to excessive cracking. I've watched this practice increase excessively for over 60 years. Such cracking can be avoided with the proper admixtures and/or methods in placing concrete. As concrete cures, water is evaporated into the atmosphere. The results is a volume reduction and thusly a reduction in the requisite solids and cracked concrete.
Why don't they use superplasticizers more often?
@@OUrVileO ...plasticizors are a "crutch" to jobsite added water. The sub has no idea what they are or what they can do. He's only thinking how he can get his role done with as soon a possible. Every notice the quality of concrete subs these days? Don't even speak English.
Does this mean that old concrete (over 20 years old) can be tiled over without a membrane?
Any conflict with in slab radiant heat?
@Vicki I don't know what you mean.
?? Can I use silicone instead of grout for a 10x10 tile floor?
Could it be used over wood framing
Hello, would this be necessary in low traffic areas such as walkin closets?
Your tilesetters should be keying in the thinset with the flat side of the trowel before spreading out with the notch for better adhesion. I know it's a nitpicky thing but it's the right way to do it.
Isaac, can you tell me a little more about this please?
Is this rolled product a mold and mildew preventative type product? Thank you.
Can I install the uncoupling membrate for tile flooring after the rooms have been drywalled?
That product looks great. Any suggestions on how to incorporate radiant floor hot water piping? Where would you put an inch or two or rigid foam, above or below the decoupler?
wow I need this on my kitchen tile floor! they cracked like crazy after this dry summer. Gonna have to redo the whole floor I will definitely be using this. Do they make it for use with electric heating?
This is what I am wondering too, will it work with radiant heating mats under it?
Love it, FANTASTIC Product!
I understand this is sponsored but is there data on how performance for this compares to Schluter Ditra or Laticrete Stratamat?
schluter is too $$$$$$$
I’ve had both at my house and they both have worked well. The Ditra has tons more options/accessories but this USG product is working great on my exterior porches.
All 3 work fine. I use Mapei’s uncoupling membrane cause that is what is in my area available, priced in the middle and has no memory so lays nice and flat.
They used a sand layer and then a thick mortar bed. That's how they did it since ancient Rome and Egypt.
That would be cheaper material but not labor.
Any uncoupler would work. No big deal.
Could i use this inside my home?
How much is Schulter Per sq/ft? Could you install this over a wood sub-floor?
Can this be used for an outdoor tile on concrete install?
Thanks you just answered the problem I have been dwelling on for 3 years. I have cracked tiles and tiles coming loose all over my house, which is built on expansive clay soil. The contractor just placed the tiles directly on the concrete floor and it was a bad move.
This is timely. I’ve seen Matt talk about the Schluter Ditra mat before, this is obviously a sponsored video, but I’d be interested to know the differences between them.
50% $$$ lol
Other than cost, they are the same.
@@cpad007 Well the Ditra is orange, so there's that...
What about if you want to install engineered floating floor? Same scenario as tile install?
Can it be installed vertically?
Laticrete used to put out a plastic clipped together grid type of uncoupling product about 15" square, used it over structural cracks in concrete has been down for about 25 years without any problems, expensive but brilliant, can't source it here in Australia any longer unfortunately, could be used over timber flooring as well.
Will liquid waterproofing membrane provide the same decoupling to stop those cracks migrating to tiles?
Can you use that outdoors?
What if it's granite tile.. will it still crack?
What did you put underneath that mat? Was that cement? If so, what type?
Is it water proof?
Can you use this as underlayment for a poured concrete finished floor?
Where can I buy this stuff
Great idea!
What is the name of that material? Any help please. Thank you
Just to clarify, are you saying you can use this system for exterior patios? I have a concrete patio with a large crack I'd like to tile over
Will this work well if we are tiling over cement radiant heat floors?
Thank you.
I have a front porch and it cracked since we move to the house. It looks terrible, we painted but the paint fell off. we live in a cold weather area with lots of snow in winter. Planning to put tiles or pavers but I do not know what to ask to the landscaper guys or maybe my husband ( who is handy) can do this. I just want to specify: the landscapers are very expensive and snobby in my area, they are only a handful and they want big jobs. I got my patio done after waiting 3 years for a quote, i hired a guy who was out of town. He is retired now. any ideas could help me to do ourselves or keep try with a landscaper. Thanks.
Can this be used with radiant heat in slab? I read install instructions dosen't say anything about radiant.
Thank you, Matt.
I'm wondering if this would be a good underlayment/insulation/vapor option, for when we pour a room full of floor leveling compound, on a concrete basement floor?
🤔
How well would it transfer heat if I was using radiant heat in my slab?
Can i use this over wood subfloor
Looks great!, I got the same thing, I got underfloor heating system, and covered with 6cm concrete but is already cracked, don't know what to do I'll do myself, not professional but I do my best lol, just a question if I put this stuff under the travertin I will lose some heat because this gonna block the heat to heat the tile up?
I installed tile on cracked concrete slab, didn’t do anything to them cracks 5 years ago. Still not a single crack on any of the 300 and something tiles. This is on a patio I live in Dallas Texas. I really wonder if we need all these additives, products and what not. 🤔 I’m sure they are needed in some applications.
I live in Texas, and it gets REALLY hot in the summer, is this still recommended for outdoor use if I wanted to install tile or pavers on my concrete outdoor patio?
Will it cause any condensation.
What about radiant heat? Which floating tile option would be the best
detra heat, disclaimer schluter has given me education and swag
@@AsHellBored : thanks for your reply. I am referring to Pex hydronic heating
Can I put porcelain tiles on outside concrete patio? Or should I use only specific tile that made only for outdoor???
Keep up the great videos. Would like to see some videos on fireproofing products or fire rating products. Thank you
Excellent
Hi Matt What happens were the mat joins each other is there no movement at these points ?
Can you use this on wood (OSB/Plywood) subfloors?
Wondering how this affects a floor with radiant heat in it? Does it still allow heat to transfer through easily?
Yes, but I would advise to use a membrane that is used in radiant heat. Even if you use any regular decoupling membranethe R-value is less than R- 0.5 so it's not going to be a big insulating problem.
Even though, I would still like to hear from others who have had this situation and what they did.
Vapor doesn't come through concrete unless it's at 100% moisture level which
would mean it's literally under water. Before installing the tile fill the cracks with polymer base mortar let dry and then lay your tile using a mortar with polymer!
Can you recommend a product as an example?
Matt, we bought a tract built townhouse and immediately replaced all the flooring on the slab-on-grade first floor with porcelain tile. Looked amazing! Just sold the home and tile still looked great 4 years later; not a single crack. I watched that flooring obsessively. Why do you think we got away with no cracking? I was thinking to do the same in a new house… now not sure…
It was probably a post tension slab.
Would this also be used on top of self leveling stuff that is like concrete?
Yes, most cementitious leveling products will telegraph any cracks that are already existing in the concrete under it. If using the leveling products on a subfloor they are also prone to cracking so an uncoupling membrane is a must.
Übertile übermat is the best uncoupling membrane I've used. It has fleece on both sides to allow for a mechanical bond on both the tile side and substrate side. Schluter ditra at least has dovetails to lock the thinset to the membrane. Thinset does not bond to polyethylene that a lot of these uncoupling membranes are made of. Having said that, I've never seen a tile failure due to this fact.
Hey Matt , would that work for laying thin rock over concrete on a patio?
I'm sure Matt would have a more detailed answer but it really comes down to this. If what you are laying is susceptible to cracking then use a membrane. Tile is very susceptible to cracking . Grout can also easily crack so that is a consideration. You said thin rock. If it were me, I would spend the extra buck per sqft and do it. The advantage that Matt mentioned with this product is you can use either modified or unmodified thin-set. The other brands of membrane are very specific and it may be different than what your tile requires.
really what we are talking about is uneven expansion. The uncoupling layer makes the tile assembly slide as 1 unit. When you take that outside, the movement is times 10 (made up number) The temperature changes are wider and more often. The sublayer can move not just left and right but add up and down. So, it "might" help" but there is no guarantee for the same indoor performance
looking to do an exterior porch and patio would this be good to but down first before porclen tile
Why cant they answer this question im doing same thing
whats the difference between this and schluter ditra?
Is not an elastic "floor heating" type of thinset good enough to handle the non-transmission of those minor cracks?
What about Blanke SecurMat Uncoupling Underlayment ?
Ooooh I need this one
Great info!
Is this product approved for a heated floor system application?
Can epoxy flooring mix be poured on top of this product?
Can you install this over plywood?
Can somebody briefly explain the advantage or disadvantage of this type of membrane versus a paintable type such as red gard or mapei paintable crack isolation products?
So this could be used with ceramic tile on a wood subfloor with a crawlspace in the place of cement board?
Could you use it as a shower backer board?
did we ever see that rear patio and fireplace video?
Use a rubberised mastic
Hello,
I would like to save money by ting over my out door patio.
I have no idea what kind of concrete patio this is. I have never seen concrete like this before. Is it possible to save it ?
I don't think this is needed on an "old" stable concrete subfloor. You can use this on a wood subfloor! The Schlutter products are crazy over priced. Good to see they have competition.
Mine Concreate is 10 years old. Can I install tiles directly without any membrane?
@@mikebaig8414 did you installed tiles sir I am facing same problem any suggestions please ?
Hi Matt,
What a great video for us as we have a concrete patio with a large crack running through it that would look great in tiles.
Thanks again
Check up first how much or how wide of a crack can it "absorb" or bridge...
I personally think it's less then a 1.5mm
@@luckystrike656if the Crack is larger, what should one do?
Is there a video about the tiles Matt laid on his porch?
Whats the total floor build up for this application? 1/4 thinset, 1/4 membrane, 1/4 thinset, 1/4 tile for 1" build-up?
Awesome video!! If you ever want to try our boots, let us know!!
All over Texas
I would think this provides a thermal break between the slab and tile too. A slab is a lot if mass to heat
What about on a stone product on a porch?
My parent’s house is in the Caribbean and is all concrete. 30+ years and not a single cracked tile. I just noticed one small crack on a wall. How is this achieved? My father designed the house and the footing or pad is about 6 feet of solid concrete and everything is extra reinforced. Is that what did the trick? That’s too much to try to replicate but is there a minimum footing that would provide the same effect? Or maybe it was good luck, a good building site? There were no membranes, insulation or barriers used.
Well built tiles don't crack. It's all about the tile. These people sell expensive bs to the clueless.
Our stand-alone garage has developed some pretty big cracks.. almost crevices. if we got the concrete sanded/graveled and leveled, would this be a good solution to prevent additional movement?
I doubt it would prevent movement since its drifting apart. Are they the same "plane" like you could place a straight edge across it decently? Or is it different heights? Is your floor properly cut for reliefs?
GoBoard is the best backer board on the market. Light weight, no mess, waterproof
I like Nac's Crack isolation membrane, 40 or 90 mil, 2 part , primer, & membrane, only 1/16-1/8 thickness