I remember coming up in the trades 44 years now and 95% of the craftsman you meet on the job were there to see things done properly, the trend seems to have shifted to pass the buck, do the least you can get away with and try to put the blame on others when things go wrong. People say I'm slow because I am old but I am fast enough to do the job right and not let the next guy fix my mistakes. I am a builder not a corporate boot licker my work and my word are the things I value most.
Great job, most roof systems come with an aluminium flashing. Also the preformed grp are a great alternative. As someone who fitted windows for over 20 years my mantra was you can never over seal on a roof, we always sealed before we leaded. As long as the sealant is flexible and the lead isn’t too long, also correct overlapping and upstands it should last forever. Thanks for the videos, some of the best building work I’ve seen anywhere in 40+ years on tools
Ah thank you, William. That's a really nice thing to say, nice one. Agree with you regarding the over sealing, it's just not possible! Thanks again, take care.
What a shambles of a job by the window company! Adam, you did the best with what you had to deal with, without ripping it all out and starting again. Like you said, the parapet wall will be done properly in the New Year but you slowed down or hopefully stopped the water ingress through those bricks. I really hope that the family stays dry from now on. Nice one mate. 👍🏼
Hello Simon! Hope you've had a great week mate. Cheers man, yes it's an absolute shambles but hopefully ok now! Fingers crossed! Thanks once again mate, take care.
Another great video 👍 What an absolute nightmare for the customer but thankfully they got a professional to rectify their problems and hopefully give them a less stressful Christmas. Based on the rest of the builder's work, I would assume the 40mm gap was due to them not building the base brickwork accurately and so the windows had to be fixed out of square
I think you just gave the customer their best Christmas present. I cannot imagine their frustration at having to deal with what should have been an amazing extension that leaks for four years. Amazing job and Merry, early, Christmas
You are right about the parapet wall but i would fit a bigger hopper and a 110mm downpipe, the existing hopper and 70mm downpipe is a real weakpoint and will be a cause of subsequent blockages.
Nice work. I would have mostly filled the gap with insulation (or foam backer rod if the gap is really irregular and would need a lot of scribing) before doing the top 10mm with sealant. It’s a quick way to fill a volume while providing a good enough backing to catch the sealant.
Another option for the parapet is aluminium pre-formed sectional capping,but the "brick on end" solution is very likely a "style over substance" affectation on the part of the architect/designer.
@@mikefarley8563 Darren of Build and Repair and Restore threatened to walk off of a job when the customer specified a parapet wall like that. They eventually came to an agreement but he ended up walking anyway a few days later when there was another host of problems.
To be fair the detail i would have done would have been to foam fill the glazing ridge then seal over the top, mechanically fixed a grp 100x50x1.5mm flashing trim to the wall sealing the top edge with a thin bead of silicone wanting a minor blead to the top edge with a 150mm overlap at the joints laying away from the house as you did with the lead. Then dress 2 clear courses vertically in lead and over to the edge of the ridge cap trim. Just my 2 pence, and appreciate the grp trim is overkill but given access i would overkill, just £15 a Lm for trim and silicone but you could VE out that option to the clients budget. You're a class act and would be happy with your remedy here though let me state this. With regards to the parapet upstand for a top job, i would fix down 18mm marine ply, epdm or liquid seal over with a 50mm lap down the wall and get a 2 part aluminium coping system to cap off, with the potential for a cladding panel with welded corners and conceal fix for the remaining brickwork on the glazed roof side of the parapet. Keep the vids coming bro. N Lincs
Ah cheers man. Nice one. Yes, overkill really isn't a nasty word in this instance due to, as you say, the access. Really appreciate you watching and commenting mate, take care.
Brilliant video very informative. I’m not a builder but love every minute of your videos. I know it is skilled hard work for you but it is great entertainment for me. Thanks.
What a mess. Fair play for sorting it for them, must be so much of this mess out there. Think I would have used a polyethylene rope to help fill the gap, mastic that in with wet seal and cap it over. We use it to bond the gaps behind the aco’s with inspection bends & it never lets us down.
@@Mr_A_Builders Also called backer rod in the USA , it's a rope made of foam basically and is used as a gap filler..btw great work Adam, professional as always
Really informative video Adam. You put your trust in so-called professionals to complete a job and when it goes pear shaped your having to put it right. That gap along the frame was so much I am not surprised it wasn't water tight (35 tubes of sealant wow!). It was lucky for the owner you were able to put it right for him. Great job.
My Guess the builders cocked up on the measurements. When the glass roof was delivered it was pointed out that the size was wrong and was told just to fit it anyway as the cost to remake would come out of the builders pocket. I bet the builders said dont worry about the gap we will sort it. Then turned up with with stetsons and horses and played some country and western music whilst trying to cover the gap. Shows how much faith the customer has in you by asking you to come back in the new year and sort out the flat roof .
It’s a possibility given that the builders fell out amongst themselves, if the wall was “ wavy “ they would have to pack it off. Wrong specifications on the type of glazing ?
Another informative and very interesting video Adam. Great job done by you and Mat to get the place watertight in time for Christmas. The customer will be happy with that im sure. Looking forward to sundays episode. Cheers 🍻
Did the exact same style of build, but slightly larger about 8 years ago down here in London, we had a structural glass company supply and fit all the glass and we did all the weathering afterwards. Not sure if that's standard? But being the builders, and also redoing the entire roof at the time, didn't think anything of it, really, I would prefer my guys do it. These structural glass guys were all young, all they knew was how to fit the glass. I always make it my business to check and assist if needed all subby work. I've usually asked them how they will do the job before they get their flask out =). Those 'copings' are shocking, it's something you just don't see. What I do see though, is not wide enough copings, with drips right up against the brick work. Shocking. Whatever happened to that job with the side access you we're doing? Was that the end of your involvement? Will we get to see the finished article?
hi adam great video as usual, i have used fix all in the past and found it to be a great product,it has great adhesion and stays crystal clear. looking forward to many more videos.
Use a flexible backing rod in the void. Usually made of foam plastic. Basic filler when jointing both sides of precast concrete panels, before the sealant is applied. 20 metre rolls. Cheers,Phil.
Bless all you, I am across the Pond, I had different issues on lightweight concrete roof, found 😮 hand falls of nails and unmixed concrete mix under some of my tiles. Additionally un flashed edges, now I have to 2-3 sheets of rotted plywood. I am peeved to the max. Thank you for roof fixing schooling. Outstanding work ethic.
Nightmare. I've recently worked on a job in the rail industry where the three parties ( the train operator, the system supplier and an equipment supplier) came to a poition where for two years they'd stopped talking to each other). I spent a fair bit of time digging through information, tracking back through e-mails and smoohing feathers. I got the job sorted but man, so much emotion from so called grownups!
Its like a bridge builder making a bridge that is short by a few inches and expecting the road builder to fill the gap. The wall was there , the initial measuring was poor. Your solution is good but horribly expensive for the client. Its a while since I bought a roll of Code Five. Ideally those sections should be lead welded. I have a portapac welding set and a leading torch if you need one, but I am in Scotland. Good job guys.
You did exactly what I thought should be done. Glad you added the additional lead flashing. My thoughts were also the same for the parapet wall, either fibreglass or lead, lead preferably. Was the glass roof too narrow in the first place?
I would have forced lengths of heating pipe insulation into the gap before sealing you can form a taper by taking a sliver out of the slit . What a careless bodge by the installer.As there was no fall on the flashing I would have turned back half an inch of each length and dressed the next one over the top of it or at least doubled the overlap but you have made a superior job to the original bodgey work.
Just get the parapet wall fiberglassed over the top with a trim on the front .... The glass roof edge is meant to have an angled fixing strip screwed into the wall then the glass panel just clips in .... As well as a sealing strip that acts as a flashing
Should have bought you down to sort out the house we bought. Extension built by a very keen DIYer. You would have had a fit!! IE, for starters, the wall at the top of the stairs was held in place by..................... expanding foam! That was the least of the issues. Love you ethic, good job.
Glazing companies opt out of lead work quite regularly due to unskilled staff. I manage a dg firm and it’s funny cos the installers that can lead often just do it through habit and diligence. Too many are scared of the responsibility
Waterproofing is its own specialty trade in California. The same with architectural details and installation who hire consultants to spec and inspect the system. There are companies who test installations for water intrusion and leaking panels. They will do random sections of glass curtain walls before signing off as waterproof.
loved your comments I spotted the capping only because of my extention, great idea of the lead capping. I trust you to always do the best job. The windows don't pass the smell test, they are not fitted flat to the wall, the brick work should have been adjusted to fit, not the other way around, it's not strictly a roof as its a glass. The window on the other roof is not a roof and you recognise that as a fan Light, same as the leaking glass fan lights. Seems the customer has got stuck between two trades that are happy to argue the toss instead of putting right their poor workmanship and mistakes.
Hello Graham, how are you? No mate there won't be but there isn't a cavity to put on in anyway so I don't know what good would have been done. Thank you for watching, mate. Take care.
That glazing profile obviously touches the wall but because of the angle is open at the top where you get your hand in needed a angled fillet with a upstand as it hits the wall fitted by window fitter.
Long term solution for that is have a proper lead worker join the lead together (not welded) but with what we call clinks (not sure if the same down south we’re in Scotland, I would probably ask for the upstand on the lead together going as high as possible and extend the lead flashing as far onto the window as possible without going onto the glass….. also use patination oil on every part of the lead to ensure no unsightly streaks down the glass from oxidation…… just my input 🤘 extension looks amazing inside & out other than the shoddy workmanship on the flashing
@ just signed off on our final re roof of the year due to start 16th December fingers crossed finished for 20th then that’s us until the new year 👍 all the best big fella
terrible , window company need shaming, disgusting work, your work looks great, i would lead the parapet and cope over the top, i would of sealed with silicone and capped it just like you did. brilliant job
Great vid, as usual, i would of filled the void half way up with liquid epoxy, this would of one bridged the void/gap, and tied the window frame to the wall, and then used C1 or similar
I'm hearing ya mate. Thing is I couldn't risk anything pouring through and adding to the clients nightmares! Cheers, Steven. Hope all is good with you.
That’s a grand job you’ve done there Adam. As for that window company I’ll have to say I’m not impressed with them full stop, I can’t believe the 40mm gap they have left and also not making it waterproof. Thank gawd that Matt has shaved his moustache off, cos he was starting to look like a younger version of Alf Garnett 😂. Once again a very enjoyable video 😁👍
Good video. It's stuff like this that makes hiring people to do building work such a nightmare. It's a shame there's no way to know if you'll get a Mr A, or whichever spanners did that work originally.
That'll never leak now Adam after 32 tubes worth! 😂 just wondering how you sealed around the window sill with the lead? Great job man, love your channel.
Hello Peter. Hope you're well, mate. The first course of lead went straight under it and then the second butted up to it, nothing too fancy or extravagant mate!
Nice job sealing the glass roof and lead work 👍 I would assume there should be some sort of plastic damp proof course under the parapet capping bricks or cavity tray with weep vents. Even if you have capping stones don't they have mortar joints?.....not as many but still routes for water and damp ingress.
Fair play Adam, wish I lived closer I’d love to have worked with you guys, everything you do is thought out and delivered professionally 🙌🏻 I lose jobs because I price to put trays in with jobs like this over parapet and where it will link…as we know the devil is in the detail.
Adam, you are very brave putting your hands behind that lead as you don't like spiders!! i am sure there are some big ones lurking in there for the winter!! I am sure that extension cost a lot of money - such a shame they did such a poor job of the flashing, as you say the leadwork is crucial to keeping the roof water tight. Nick
Surely that glass frame should have a water tight trim to be installed before the lead, otherwise you'll always end up with that external angle between the frame and the brick wall.
Expanding foam tape tucked 10mm below the top of the aluminium frame then appropriate mastic sealant over the top then dress the lead back over. Should be cheaper and more stable than using sealant alone and easier to get a neat finish.
Personally in this situation i would get some aluminium or plastic clad steel bent to the pitch of the roof light. Cut this into 1.5m lenths with a 6 " overlap and a clear adhesive sealant on the joins and the wall. Renew the lead dressing it down neatly and pointed in with leadmate. Open ends of joints facing away from prevaling weather.
@Mr_A_Builders I'm good thanks, yes similar approach, although I wouldn't have bothered with the 30 tubes of silicone. Thinking about it, it wouldn't have hurt to scribe some 50mm celotex to the gap and then the custom fabricated capping folowed by the lead. Not really a lot else you can do. I have a fabricator local to me with a big press/ guillotine so can get sheet metal formed easily.
Commenting as I watch. 1- flashing should be another course higher 2 - could have lead welded the joints. 3 - no drip on the parapet wall, maybe 2 course Rosemary's. 4 - the wall isn't straight, it belly's, that's why inwould say there is foam to fill the gap. 5 - I think i would look at using a filler piece, then the lead will.slope down it, 6- the glazing company didn't want to seal it or waterproof it because they no doubt knew it would leak, says a lot about them. If it leaked in a year or 2 they can then say it wasn't us.
FWIW you can buy plastic wrap that is meant to protect stone countertops while in transit/install. It's slightly sticky on one side, comes in a big roll and is cheap. Why am I telling you this? It would have been the perfect thing to use to protect the windows and frame from all that abrasive brick dust. Any supply place that services the stone countertop industry will carry it.
Or a roll of cheap lineing paper and some wide masking tape to secure it. You can bend the edge of the paper up so it forms a slight lip, and then after grinding, fold it back on itself, capturing the dust.
@@Mr_A_Builders Brick and mortar dust is abrasive. You are walking on the frame members, grinding it into the paint, as well as when you wash it off, any scrubbing will leave small scratches in the windows. The end result looks professional and well done. I'm sure the client is just happy to not have water coming in their house, but I'd be livid if I saw a contractor do that to $20k window wall without making some attempt at protecting it.
someones made a mistake measuring that. no logical reason for that huge gap. they were restricted by the end window so had to go with that angle and gouldnt drop it down to go against the wall. gutter side is proably very tight so couldnt move over either. someone bodged it to make it fit. i think it would have cut in insulation and then siliconed it . then get some little flashings bent into a rough l shape and then leaded over that. you really got the caulk out on this job . 35 tubes wasnt too bad . i thought a lot more.
I would remove parapet caping, take lead off all around.Fill with foam as an insulater, reinstall lead properly including upto last course below capping, recap with proper copings using silicone and not mortar as a perp joint.
I will have you know that I only plunge forward but am worth every penny. I have a short list of 3 star reviews for my plunging forward. Here is a selection: "Very quick, more or less got the plunging job done, required some clean up afterwards ~Three stars." and another. "Mercifully short, and short in every way. Would be two stars but he made a good cup of tea~Three Stars."
Using 35 tubes was crazy. You should have fresh foamed it then capped with trim and you would have used maybe 5 tubes. Foam goes off in an hour so no big wait.
Lots of staining on the windows from the lead, suprised the original architect/window company didn't specify another flashing material that won't stain the windows!
That's a glass company that doesn't want to own up to measuring it wrong as they're custom made/ ordered. "oh the walls out it's the builders issue to make it weather tight". Come across that more often than I'd like. As for the bricks as coping stones, why wasn't it lead flashed up and over under the last line of bricks and then just CT1 the bricks to the Lead. Would have been weather tight.
Haven’t seen the end of the video, but I’m guessing the top course of bricks leaks into the wall. It should have something over it so water doesn’t get in.
I can only assume it didn't abut the wall as the original wall may not be square hence the packing. Either way it was done terribly with no thought whatsoever as to whether it would be water tight
What an awesome job you did there but before you go get your party hat and eat a happy meal I must shed my utter disappointment. We had a deal.... Did we not? You said any dust and you would get my missus round with the old dyson and duster and sort it out. But oh no, I see a grinder whipping out more dust than a cement factory and then you blast it with the old leaf blower.... 😂 Great to see you on the tools again though 😊
I must admit that I have some grovelling to do...that was the deal and I've renegade on it! Please except my up most apologies and please pass them on to your other half! I promise that 2025 will be the most dust filled yet and that she will have the monopoly on the lot! Haha! Cheers man.
My guess on this is that the extension isn't perfectly in line with the house wall. I wouldn't be surprised if, at the garden end, the roof beam is tight to the wall but that it runs out over the huge length of the roof to give that 40mm gap at the house end. However, it should certainly have been sealed. Was it a case of "How the heck are we going to seal that?" "I dunno."
Hi, Even if the glass framing was exactly the right size there still would be a gap between the brickwork and the frame due to the pitch of the roof. The framing profile has a square edge so even if the bottom of the frame profile (inside) was hard against the brickwork the top (outside) would be about 25mm away from the wall. Calculating and designing the framework a tolerance usually 10mm would be used for any variation in the brickwork along its length. Any variation should be packed at all fixing points and continuously silicone sealed on the inside. This is the final defence. So you now have tapering that is sealed at the bottom the next barrier is an expanding butyl tape when put in the gap will start expanding to fill the gap. The correct width and expansion will need to be calculated as some will expand upto 40-50mm. To much and the tape will push itself out of the void, to little and it will not seal between the frame and the brickwork. You may require more than one of tape size if the gap varies along the length of the framework to achieve a constant seal. Full expansion of these tapes is achieved when they warm up. So in cold weather full expansion is slow. So now we have void sealed, next defence would be a powder coated pressing to match frame colour, formed to the correct pitch of the roof and brickwork ( a minimum of 100mm up the brick face) this is to be bonded to to the face of the head profile using a closed cell foam tape 6mm thick will allow for a good silicone seal. The pressing should be set back 10-15mm so the pressing can not be visible from the inside. The foam tape is applied with a 6mm offset to the lower edge of the pressing,the paper to remain in place for now, when bonded to the head profile there will be a 6mm rebate under the pressing. Apply a generous line of silicone to the top edge of the drill plug and screw back to the brickwork. Any surplus silicone cleaned off after fixings pull the pressing in. Constant attention should be paid that tape on the pressing is still in contact with the head frame. The tape can now be removed and bonded to the frame. The lead can fitted the course above the pressing fixings chase and fix back with lead clips. The lead should overlap the pressing by 90mm allowing 10mm on the vertical before the pressing splays following pitch of glass roof. This allows for expansion and running the lead down on the pitch allows the possibility of rain being blown under the lead. Point the lead to the brickwork using an approved lead sealant. Silicone point 6mm rebate under pressing and tool off. 4 barriers against water ingress. 👍
at 10 minutes in my guesses A: the wall is not straight, hence the gaps. B: the foam was for thermal use not waterproofing. C: minimum upstand on a lean to roof is 75 mm ( not 150 as many believe) D: capping of parapet is all wrong. Who ordered/measured/ fitted the roof is at fault.Lead work is crap
Hahaha, window company "we don't make it waterproof". Imagine a plumber coming around to do a major install and then just shoving off without pressure testing claiming that "it's not my job to make sure there are no leaks".
I remember coming up in the trades 44 years now and 95% of the craftsman you meet on the job were there to see things done properly, the trend seems to have shifted to pass the buck, do the least you can get away with and try to put the blame on others when things go wrong.
People say I'm slow because I am old but I am fast enough to do the job right and not let the next guy fix my mistakes. I am a builder not a corporate boot licker my work and my word are the things I value most.
Great job, most roof systems come with an aluminium flashing. Also the preformed grp are a great alternative. As someone who fitted windows for over 20 years my mantra was you can never over seal on a roof, we always sealed before we leaded. As long as the sealant is flexible and the lead isn’t too long, also correct overlapping and upstands it should last forever. Thanks for the videos, some of the best building work I’ve seen anywhere in 40+ years on tools
Ah thank you, William. That's a really nice thing to say, nice one. Agree with you regarding the over sealing, it's just not possible! Thanks again, take care.
Excellent, one of the best building videos I've ever watched
Haha! Get out of it!!!
What a shambles of a job by the window company! Adam, you did the best with what you had to deal with, without ripping it all out and starting again. Like you said, the parapet wall will be done properly in the New Year but you slowed down or hopefully stopped the water ingress through those bricks. I really hope that the family stays dry from now on. Nice one mate. 👍🏼
Hello Simon! Hope you've had a great week mate. Cheers man, yes it's an absolute shambles but hopefully ok now! Fingers crossed! Thanks once again mate, take care.
Another great video 👍 What an absolute nightmare for the customer but thankfully they got a professional to rectify their problems and hopefully give them a less stressful Christmas. Based on the rest of the builder's work, I would assume the 40mm gap was due to them not building the base brickwork accurately and so the windows had to be fixed out of square
Thank you, Alan. Either way mate the window company would have measured off of what was there, so it's totally their fault in my opinion.
I think you just gave the customer their best Christmas present. I cannot imagine their frustration at having to deal with what should have been an amazing extension that leaks for four years. Amazing job and Merry, early, Christmas
Real question is why did they put up with it leaking for four years? 🤔
Well done Ad, the difference that will make to the family will be huge!!
After 4 years mate I hope it does mate. Nice one.
You are right about the parapet wall but i would fit a bigger hopper and a 110mm downpipe, the existing hopper and 70mm downpipe is a real weakpoint and will be a cause of subsequent blockages.
Nice work. I would have mostly filled the gap with insulation (or foam backer rod if the gap is really irregular and would need a lot of scribing) before doing the top 10mm with sealant. It’s a quick way to fill a volume while providing a good enough backing to catch the sealant.
Cheers, man.
The parapet wall should have caping instead of the headers
BOOM!
Another option for the parapet is aluminium pre-formed sectional capping,but the "brick on end" solution is very likely a "style over substance" affectation on the part of the architect/designer.
@@mikefarley8563 Darren of Build and Repair and Restore threatened to walk off of a job when the customer specified a parapet wall like that. They eventually came to an agreement but he ended up walking anyway a few days later when there was another host of problems.
Or lead cap
To be fair the detail i would have done would have been to foam fill the glazing ridge then seal over the top, mechanically fixed a grp 100x50x1.5mm flashing trim to the wall sealing the top edge with a thin bead of silicone wanting a minor blead to the top edge with a 150mm overlap at the joints laying away from the house as you did with the lead. Then dress 2 clear courses vertically in lead and over to the edge of the ridge cap trim. Just my 2 pence, and appreciate the grp trim is overkill but given access i would overkill, just £15 a Lm for trim and silicone but you could VE out that option to the clients budget. You're a class act and would be happy with your remedy here though let me state this. With regards to the parapet upstand for a top job, i would fix down 18mm marine ply, epdm or liquid seal over with a 50mm lap down the wall and get a 2 part aluminium coping system to cap off, with the potential for a cladding panel with welded corners and conceal fix for the remaining brickwork on the glazed roof side of the parapet. Keep the vids coming bro. N Lincs
Ah cheers man. Nice one. Yes, overkill really isn't a nasty word in this instance due to, as you say, the access. Really appreciate you watching and commenting mate, take care.
Brilliant video very informative. I’m not a builder but love every minute of your videos. I know it is skilled hard work for you but it is great entertainment for me. Thanks.
Hello Peter. It's always great to hear that non- builders like to watch our stuff, thank you. Take care.
What a mess. Fair play for sorting it for them, must be so much of this mess out there. Think I would have used a polyethylene rope to help fill the gap, mastic that in with wet seal and cap it over. We use it to bond the gaps behind the aco’s with inspection bends & it never lets us down.
Got to honest mate I haven't heard of that stuff but I'll definitely be looking it up. Nice one, mate.
@@Mr_A_Builders Also called backer rod in the USA , it's a rope made of foam basically and is used as a gap filler..btw great work Adam, professional as always
Really informative video Adam. You put your trust in so-called professionals to complete a job and when it goes pear shaped your having to put it right. That gap along the frame was so much I am not surprised it wasn't water tight (35 tubes of sealant wow!). It was lucky for the owner you were able to put it right for him. Great job.
Thank you mate. Appreciate that. Hope you're well.
My Guess the builders cocked up on the measurements. When the glass roof was delivered it was pointed out that the size was wrong and was told just to fit it anyway as the cost to remake would come out of the builders pocket. I bet the builders said dont worry about the gap we will sort it. Then turned up with with stetsons and horses and played some country and western music whilst trying to cover the gap. Shows how much faith the customer has in you by asking you to come back in the new year and sort out the flat roof .
Hello Woody. The glass company measured and fitted the roof. The builders to that point had nothing to do with it.
It’s a possibility given that the builders fell out amongst themselves, if the wall was “ wavy “ they would have to pack it off. Wrong specifications on the type of glazing ?
What a grand piece of lead work ,well done chaps😊
Thank you, Nic. Nice one.
What a great video, thoroughly enjoyed it, fantastic job
Ah nice one, Paul. Appreciate that mate. Thank you.
I was very impressed with the lead work I wasn’t expecting the 2nd higher layer. Above and beyond and then some. Well done, a new subscriber.
Welcome, Paul! Thank you for subscribing, really appreciate it. Hope all is well your end, take care.
Another informative and very interesting video Adam. Great job done by you and Mat to get the place watertight in time for Christmas. The customer will be happy with that im sure. Looking forward to sundays episode. Cheers 🍻
Horror story there Adam. You did the best possible i think and sealing the bricks will gain a bit of respite for now. 👍👍👍
Hopefully Doug! Cheers man, hope you're well.
Did the exact same style of build, but slightly larger about 8 years ago down here in London, we had a structural glass company supply and fit all the glass and we did all the weathering afterwards. Not sure if that's standard? But being the builders, and also redoing the entire roof at the time, didn't think anything of it, really, I would prefer my guys do it. These structural glass guys were all young, all they knew was how to fit the glass.
I always make it my business to check and assist if needed all subby work. I've usually asked them how they will do the job before they get their flask out =).
Those 'copings' are shocking, it's something you just don't see. What I do see though, is not wide enough copings, with drips right up against the brick work. Shocking.
Whatever happened to that job with the side access you we're doing? Was that the end of your involvement? Will we get to see the finished article?
hi adam great video as usual, i have used fix all in the past and found it to be a great product,it has great adhesion and stays crystal clear. looking forward to many more videos.
Most would have not taken that job, so credit to you Adam for sorting that mess, the lead work is impressive now.
Another interesting and good video showing how it can all go wrong for honest hardworking who trust some professionals...mine field..
That's one way to look at it, Bruno.
Use a flexible backing rod in the void. Usually made of foam plastic. Basic filler when jointing both sides of precast concrete panels, before the sealant is applied. 20 metre rolls.
Cheers,Phil.
Nice one, Phil. Thank you.
You made a nice job of it in the end 👌🏻 the only other thing that may be worth considering is coating the brickwork with Stormdry if it’s 9” solid 👊🏻
Yes mate, Stormdry will be a must when we come to do it in the new year. Cheers man, take care.
I used liquid rubber on my front and back flat rooves and they're fantastic. Use enough and you can seal up the Channel Tunnel.
Yes mate it is supposed to be good stuff, we shall see! Thank you for watching.
Bless all you, I am across the Pond, I had different issues on lightweight concrete roof, found 😮 hand falls of nails and unmixed concrete mix under some of my tiles. Additionally un flashed edges, now I have to 2-3 sheets of rotted plywood. I am peeved to the max. Thank you for roof fixing schooling. Outstanding work ethic.
Nightmare. I've recently worked on a job in the rail industry where the three parties ( the train operator, the system supplier and an equipment supplier) came to a poition where for two years they'd stopped talking to each other). I spent a fair bit of time digging through information, tracking back through e-mails and smoohing feathers. I got the job sorted but man, so much emotion from so called grownups!
The most childish people I know are adults!
Its like a bridge builder making a bridge that is short by a few inches and expecting the road builder to fill the gap. The wall was there , the initial measuring was poor. Your solution is good but horribly expensive for the client. Its a while since I bought a roll of Code Five. Ideally those sections should be lead welded. I have a portapac welding set and a leading torch if you need one, but I am in Scotland. Good job guys.
You did exactly what I thought should be done. Glad you added the additional lead flashing. My thoughts were also the same for the parapet wall, either fibreglass or lead, lead preferably. Was the glass roof too narrow in the first place?
Ah cheers man. Appreciate that. How's things?
It's a lovely extension except for that nonsense. I love what you did with the lead.
It is beautiful, Andy. Cheers mate.
I would have forced lengths of heating pipe insulation into the gap before sealing you can form a taper by taking a sliver out of the slit . What a careless bodge by the installer.As there was no fall on the flashing I would have turned back half an inch of each length and dressed the next one over the top of it or at least doubled the overlap but you have made a superior job to the original bodgey work.
Just get the parapet wall fiberglassed over the top with a trim on the front .... The glass roof edge is meant to have an angled fixing strip screwed into the wall then the glass panel just clips in .... As well as a sealing strip that acts as a flashing
Should have bought you down to sort out the house we bought. Extension built by a very keen DIYer. You would have had a fit!! IE, for starters, the wall at the top of the stairs was held in place by..................... expanding foam! That was the least of the issues. Love you ethic, good job.
Oh man! Sorry to hear that, Colin. Hope it's all sorted now?
Could have used compriband first to fill most of the gap then top with sealant.
Great video Adam. With surprise content rather than from the regular menu. Bit of a builders advent calendar. 😜 What’s next.
Yes John, it was a purposeful attempt to shake things up a bit! Glad you enjoyed it mate. Thank you for watching.
Great job guys fair play for fixing it for the home owners
Thank you, Noel. Hope you're well.
I'm a simple man. I see Mr A Builder video. I click.
It seems we have more in common than just the name!
Glazing companies opt out of lead work quite regularly due to unskilled staff. I manage a dg firm and it’s funny cos the installers that can lead often just do it through habit and diligence. Too many are scared of the responsibility
Waterproofing is its own specialty trade in California. The same with architectural details and installation who hire consultants to spec and inspect the system. There are companies who test installations for water intrusion and leaking panels. They will do random sections of glass curtain walls before signing off as waterproof.
Nice one Paul! How is sunny California? Looking forward to the change of the guard in the new year?
Great video . I learned something great job
Nice one, Alfie. Hope you're well, mate.
Got to be draughty and leaking heat with that hand-width gap between the wall and roof window!
Mate it must have been! Hopefully it's better now!
loved your comments I spotted the capping only because of my extention, great idea of the lead capping. I trust you to always do the best job. The windows don't pass the smell test, they are not fitted flat to the wall, the brick work should have been adjusted to fit, not the other way around, it's not strictly a roof as its a glass. The window on the other roof is not a roof and you recognise that as a fan Light, same as the leaking glass fan lights. Seems the customer has got stuck between two trades that are happy to argue the toss instead of putting right their poor workmanship and mistakes.
great vid, learn so much from your vids, do you think there should be cavity trays above the lead, apologise if there is I could'nt see them, thanks
Hello Graham, how are you? No mate there won't be but there isn't a cavity to put on in anyway so I don't know what good would have been done. Thank you for watching, mate. Take care.
My worse nightmare... paying someone to do a job and it turns out a complete cowboy 🤠 yehaaaa
That glazing profile obviously touches the wall but because of the angle is open at the top where you get your hand in needed a angled fillet with a upstand as it hits the wall fitted by window fitter.
Cheers mate. Anything would have been nice! Hope you're well.
Well done ! Flexim would have worked well 👍
Long term solution for that is have a proper lead worker join the lead together (not welded) but with what we call clinks (not sure if the same down south we’re in Scotland, I would probably ask for the upstand on the lead together going as high as possible and extend the lead flashing as far onto the window as possible without going onto the glass….. also use patination oil on every part of the lead to ensure no unsightly streaks down the glass from oxidation…… just my input 🤘 extension looks amazing inside & out other than the shoddy workmanship on the flashing
Nice one mate. Thank you for that. Hope you're busy?
@ just signed off on our final re roof of the year due to start 16th December fingers crossed finished for 20th then that’s us until the new year 👍 all the best big fella
@Telferroofing crikey you're cutting that one fine! Fair play mate, hope it all goes to plan. Take care.
@@Mr_A_Builders we are completing next doors roof tomorrow so already know what we’re up against so no stress 😂
The joins are also know as welts
terrible , window company need shaming, disgusting work, your work looks great, i would lead the parapet and cope over the top, i would of sealed with silicone and capped it just like you did. brilliant job
Cheers mate. Hope you're having a nice evening.
I hate flat roofs of any kind. One pinhole and water will get in. In this case it's necessary but I still don't like it.
Great vid, as usual, i would of filled the void half way up with liquid epoxy, this would of one bridged the void/gap, and tied the window frame to the wall, and then used C1 or similar
I'm hearing ya mate. Thing is I couldn't risk anything pouring through and adding to the clients nightmares! Cheers, Steven. Hope all is good with you.
@@Mr_A_Builders Good point, so it was c1 first, then epoxy, then c1, your move 😀
That’s a grand job you’ve done there Adam. As for that window company I’ll have to say I’m not impressed with them full stop, I can’t believe the 40mm gap they have left and also not making it waterproof. Thank gawd that Matt has shaved his moustache off, cos he was starting to look like a younger version of Alf Garnett 😂. Once again a very enjoyable video 😁👍
Haha! I can confirm that he and Alf Garnet have totally different attitudes to life and the world! Haha! Cheers man.
Good video. It's stuff like this that makes hiring people to do building work such a nightmare. It's a shame there's no way to know if you'll get a Mr A, or whichever spanners did that work originally.
Hello Ronald, hope you're well. Yes it's a bit of a minefield isn't it!
Another cracking video . well done lads
Thank you mate, really appreciate that. Hope you're well.
That'll never leak now Adam after 32 tubes worth! 😂 just wondering how you sealed around the window sill with the lead?
Great job man, love your channel.
Hello Peter. Hope you're well, mate. The first course of lead went straight under it and then the second butted up to it, nothing too fancy or extravagant mate!
I'm in the states, and to help fill the gap so you don't need so much goop, we have closed cell foam backer rod, SIKA and M-D brand in my area.
Nice one, Joseph. What part of America are you from?
Nice job sealing the glass roof and lead work 👍
I would assume there should be some sort of plastic damp proof course under the parapet capping bricks or cavity tray with weep vents.
Even if you have capping stones don't they have mortar joints?.....not as many but still routes for water and damp ingress.
Fair play Adam, wish I lived closer I’d love to have worked with you guys, everything you do is thought out and delivered professionally 🙌🏻 I lose jobs because I price to put trays in with jobs like this over parapet and where it will link…as we know the devil is in the detail.
Who measured the glazing! Stevie Wonder 😂
Haha! Hello must have forgotten his brail tape measure!
Adam, you are very brave putting your hands behind that lead as you don't like spiders!! i am sure there are some big ones lurking in there for the winter!! I am sure that extension cost a lot of money - such a shame they did such a poor job of the flashing, as you say the leadwork is crucial to keeping the roof water tight. Nick
I honestly never thought of that! Oh man that turns my stomach!
Surely that glass frame should have a water tight trim to be installed before the lead, otherwise you'll always end up with that external angle between the frame and the brick wall.
Exactly my thoughts, mate. But no!
It definitely looks better with new lead work finger crossed it keeps water out 👍
Cheers man. Hope you're well.
Don’t know what’s worse that job or the van 🤣👍🏻
It's a close call, and now that the roof is water tight that may have given it the edge...
😂
@@Mr_A_Builders 🤣🤣🤣
Expanding foam tape tucked 10mm below the top of the aluminium frame then appropriate mastic sealant over the top then dress the lead back over.
Should be cheaper and more stable than using sealant alone and easier to get a neat finish.
Nice one mate, appreciate that.
Personally in this situation i would get some aluminium or plastic clad steel bent to the pitch of the roof light.
Cut this into 1.5m lenths with a 6 " overlap and a clear adhesive sealant on the joins and the wall.
Renew the lead dressing it down neatly and pointed in with leadmate. Open ends of joints facing away from prevaling weather.
Sounds a lot like what I did Paul! Hope you're well, mate.
@Mr_A_Builders
I'm good thanks, yes similar approach, although I wouldn't have bothered with the 30 tubes of silicone. Thinking about it, it wouldn't have hurt to scribe some 50mm celotex to the gap and then the custom fabricated capping folowed by the lead.
Not really a lot else you can do. I have a fabricator local to me with a big press/ guillotine so can get sheet metal formed easily.
Commenting as I watch.
1- flashing should be another course higher
2 - could have lead welded the joints.
3 - no drip on the parapet wall, maybe 2 course Rosemary's.
4 - the wall isn't straight, it belly's, that's why inwould say there is foam to fill the gap.
5 - I think i would look at using a filler piece, then the lead will.slope down it,
6- the glazing company didn't want to seal it or waterproof it because they no doubt knew it would leak, says a lot about them. If it leaked in a year or 2 they can then say it wasn't us.
FWIW you can buy plastic wrap that is meant to protect stone countertops while in transit/install. It's slightly sticky on one side, comes in a big roll and is cheap. Why am I telling you this? It would have been the perfect thing to use to protect the windows and frame from all that abrasive brick dust. Any supply place that services the stone countertop industry will carry it.
Or a roll of cheap lineing paper and some wide masking tape to secure it. You can bend the edge of the paper up so it forms a slight lip, and then after grinding, fold it back on itself, capturing the dust.
Or just wash it off immediately afterwards.
@@Mr_A_Builders Brick and mortar dust is abrasive. You are walking on the frame members, grinding it into the paint, as well as when you wash it off, any scrubbing will leave small scratches in the windows. The end result looks professional and well done. I'm sure the client is just happy to not have water coming in their house, but I'd be livid if I saw a contractor do that to $20k window wall without making some attempt at protecting it.
Cracking job the way it should have been done in the first place 👍🏻👌🏻
Cheers man! Hope you're having a great night.
@@Mr_A_Buildersyes Celtic won 1-0 💚🤣👍🏻 cheers bro
someones made a mistake measuring that. no logical reason for that huge gap. they were restricted by the end window so had to go with that angle and gouldnt drop it down to go against the wall. gutter side is proably very tight so couldnt move over either. someone bodged it to make it fit.
i think it would have cut in insulation and then siliconed it . then get some little flashings bent into a rough l shape and then leaded over that.
you really got the caulk out on this job . 35 tubes wasnt too bad . i thought a lot more.
Yes Alan, someone has messed up big time! Oh well, hopefully it's all sorted now!
Agree I would have used a plastic L piece maybe 3x3inch placed up to the wall an laid onto the roof. Relay lead spot on fix.
Oh I like that idea mate. That would have been more rigid too so I could have done longer lengths. Nice one.
What about cold bridging? Yes.
I would remove parapet caping, take lead off all around.Fill with foam as an insulater, reinstall lead properly including upto last course below capping, recap with proper copings using silicone and not mortar as a perp joint.
I will have you know that I only plunge forward but am worth every penny. I have a short list of 3 star reviews for my plunging forward. Here is a selection:
"Very quick, more or less got the plunging job done, required some clean up afterwards ~Three stars."
and another.
"Mercifully short, and short in every way. Would be two stars but he made a good cup of tea~Three Stars."
I think I would have mostly filled the gap with a sika 1 render before a mastic topper.
Using 35 tubes was crazy. You should have fresh foamed it then capped with trim and you would have used maybe 5 tubes. Foam goes off in an hour so no big wait.
Hello Chris. I don't know of a foam that's fully cured in an hour. What brand is that?
I bet if you take the bricks off that you won’t find a tray installed, better still the missing weep vents will be a huge clue. Total botch job👎🏻
It's been poorly throughout, let's put it that way! But by the time we've finished with it'll be sound. Cheers man.
Lots of staining on the windows from the lead, suprised the original architect/window company didn't specify another flashing material that won't stain the windows!
That's a glass company that doesn't want to own up to measuring it wrong as they're custom made/ ordered. "oh the walls out it's the builders issue to make it weather tight". Come across that more often than I'd like. As for the bricks as coping stones, why wasn't it lead flashed up and over under the last line of bricks and then just CT1 the bricks to the Lead. Would have been weather tight.
Yes mate...what you said! You're totally right. I think that they didn't know what they were doing.
Top of that parapet wall has brick on edge copings, best rip it off and cap it could go over the cap with leas as well
Get flashings made with a drip , can get in anthracite make a neat job of it.
Yes mate that would look lovely.
Haven’t seen the end of the video, but I’m guessing the top course of bricks leaks into the wall. It should have something over it so water doesn’t get in.
Haha! I won't spoil the end for you...
I can only assume it didn't abut the wall as the original wall may not be square hence the packing. Either way it was done terribly with no thought whatsoever as to whether it would be water tight
i thought the same. Window square, house not
It's just crap all round, mate!
What an awesome job you did there but before you go get your party hat and eat a happy meal I must shed my utter disappointment. We had a deal.... Did we not? You said any dust and you would get my missus round with the old dyson and duster and sort it out. But oh no, I see a grinder whipping out more dust than a cement factory and then you blast it with the old leaf blower.... 😂 Great to see you on the tools again though 😊
I must admit that I have some grovelling to do...that was the deal and I've renegade on it! Please except my up most apologies and please pass them on to your other half! I promise that 2025 will be the most dust filled yet and that she will have the monopoly on the lot! Haha! Cheers man.
maintenance is a big priority for the extension. leaves more so. no wonder firms get a bad name
5:49 😂😂😂
20 tubes, no wonder they ran out 😭 😂
20? Rookie numbers...
My guess on this is that the extension isn't perfectly in line with the house wall. I wouldn't be surprised if, at the garden end, the roof beam is tight to the wall but that it runs out over the huge length of the roof to give that 40mm gap at the house end.
However, it should certainly have been sealed. Was it a case of "How the heck are we going to seal that?" "I dunno."
It's a consistent 40mm all the way down, Ian. It's quite something!
I would have fitted a rubber gasket along the gap,then a plastic cap,then sealant ,job done, PS I'm not a builder..😊
Hi, Even if the glass framing was exactly the right size there still would be a gap between the brickwork and the frame due to the pitch of the roof. The framing profile has a square edge so even if the bottom of the frame profile (inside) was hard against the brickwork the top (outside) would be about 25mm away from the wall. Calculating and designing the framework a tolerance usually 10mm would be used for any variation in the brickwork along its length. Any variation should be packed at all fixing points and continuously silicone sealed on the inside. This is the final defence.
So you now have tapering that is sealed at the bottom the next barrier is an expanding butyl tape when put in the gap will start expanding to fill the gap. The correct width and expansion will need to be calculated as some will expand upto 40-50mm. To much and the tape will push itself out of the void, to little and it will not seal between the frame and the brickwork. You may require more than one of tape size if the gap varies along the length of the framework to achieve a constant seal. Full expansion of these tapes is achieved when they warm up. So in cold weather full expansion is slow.
So now we have void sealed, next defence would be a powder coated pressing to match frame colour, formed to the correct pitch of the roof and brickwork ( a minimum of 100mm up the brick face) this is to be bonded to to the face of the head profile using a closed cell foam tape 6mm thick will allow for a good silicone seal. The pressing should be set back 10-15mm so the pressing can not be visible from the inside. The foam tape is applied with a 6mm offset to the lower edge of the pressing,the paper to remain in place for now, when bonded to the head profile there will be a 6mm rebate under the pressing. Apply a generous line of silicone to the top edge of the drill plug and screw back to the brickwork. Any surplus silicone cleaned off after fixings pull the pressing in. Constant attention should be paid that tape on the pressing is still in contact with the head frame. The tape can now be removed and bonded to the frame. The lead can fitted the course above the pressing fixings chase and fix back with lead clips. The lead should overlap the pressing by 90mm allowing 10mm on the vertical before the pressing splays following pitch of glass roof. This allows for expansion and running the lead down on the pitch allows the possibility of rain being blown under the lead.
Point the lead to the brickwork using an approved lead sealant.
Silicone point 6mm rebate under pressing and tool off.
4 barriers against water ingress. 👍
Good work bud 👍
Thank you, Tom.
at 10 minutes in my guesses A: the wall is not straight, hence the gaps. B: the foam was for thermal use not waterproofing. C: minimum upstand on a lean to roof is 75 mm ( not 150 as many believe) D: capping of parapet is all wrong. Who ordered/measured/ fitted the roof is at fault.Lead work is crap
Has the wall the glazing against got any cavity trays in?
Got to be at least 22 tubes! 😮
Higher!
Hahaha, window company "we don't make it waterproof". Imagine a plumber coming around to do a major install and then just shoving off without pressure testing claiming that "it's not my job to make sure there are no leaks".
I know! It's crazy to me too.
I think Paul F worked for either the builder or the window company 😂
Haha!
Hello ad my garage parapet walk as the same problem so if you want some practice putting coping’s on you know where I live 😜
Did the window company issue a Fensa certificate. Bet they didn’t need to use a cooker hood for extract with those gaps. 😮
I wouldn't bet against that mate. The only guarantee with that work is that it'll leak!
Aluminium capping instead of the lead on the flat roof
Put some deep flow gutters on the main roof while you've got a scaffold
They are deep flow, mate.
Evening gents that was a shocker for a job like that