@SalomonX88 it's not a donation, so to speak, we're spending the donated money on presents for the kids in the hospital this Christmas. The cut off date for donations is the 12th, this Thursday.
I remember coming up in the trades 44 years now and 95% of the craftsman you meet on the job were there to see things done properly, the trend seems to have shifted to pass the buck, do the least you can get away with and try to put the blame on others when things go wrong. People say I'm slow because I am old but I am fast enough to do the job right and not let the next guy fix my mistakes. I am a builder not a corporate boot licker my work and my word are the things I value most.
Exactly, back then the tradesmen met and sorted the problem together bt now it's either laziness or ego where every tradesmen on a job cares only for his part of the job.
1. I Would really enjoy working for you in my spare time. 2. Love watching you and your team do good quality work. 3. You are a Brummie too, just like me. 4. You explain simply and there is no ego.
Great job, most roof systems come with an aluminium flashing. Also the preformed grp are a great alternative. As someone who fitted windows for over 20 years my mantra was you can never over seal on a roof, we always sealed before we leaded. As long as the sealant is flexible and the lead isn’t too long, also correct overlapping and upstands it should last forever. Thanks for the videos, some of the best building work I’ve seen anywhere in 40+ years on tools
Ah thank you, William. That's a really nice thing to say, nice one. Agree with you regarding the over sealing, it's just not possible! Thanks again, take care.
I think you just gave the customer their best Christmas present. I cannot imagine their frustration at having to deal with what should have been an amazing extension that leaks for four years. Amazing job and Merry, early, Christmas
My Guess the builders cocked up on the measurements. When the glass roof was delivered it was pointed out that the size was wrong and was told just to fit it anyway as the cost to remake would come out of the builders pocket. I bet the builders said dont worry about the gap we will sort it. Then turned up with with stetsons and horses and played some country and western music whilst trying to cover the gap. Shows how much faith the customer has in you by asking you to come back in the new year and sort out the flat roof .
It’s a possibility given that the builders fell out amongst themselves, if the wall was “ wavy “ they would have to pack it off. Wrong specifications on the type of glazing ?
You are a very skilled individual and giving an honest appraisal of the situation to the customer is commendable, long may you be in business fella And yes it’s a damn lovely kitchen, all that exposed brickwork, right up my street that style
What a shambles of a job by the window company! Adam, you did the best with what you had to deal with, without ripping it all out and starting again. Like you said, the parapet wall will be done properly in the New Year but you slowed down or hopefully stopped the water ingress through those bricks. I really hope that the family stays dry from now on. Nice one mate. 👍🏼
Hello Simon! Hope you've had a great week mate. Cheers man, yes it's an absolute shambles but hopefully ok now! Fingers crossed! Thanks once again mate, take care.
Surely they’re missing a cavity tray detail on parapet? Even the joint on a coping stone can fail so there will have to be a dpc under a coping which then creates a slip joint, and didn’t notice any weep holes above the door either. Aluminium cap it, nice repair though, great vid!
Another option for the parapet is aluminium pre-formed sectional capping,but the "brick on end" solution is very likely a "style over substance" affectation on the part of the architect/designer.
@@mikefarley8563 Darren of Build and Repair and Restore threatened to walk off of a job when the customer specified a parapet wall like that. They eventually came to an agreement but he ended up walking anyway a few days later when there was another host of problems.
Parapet walls defo need covering with lead /zinc or grp.If there's no cavity in any of it paint it with storm dry brick emulsion is what I suggest.Belt and braces .How old is the house ?
You are right about the parapet wall but i would fit a bigger hopper and a 110mm downpipe, the existing hopper and 70mm downpipe is a real weakpoint and will be a cause of subsequent blockages.
totally - the run off from a steep Victorian main roof gutter set can be fast and excessive .. the scaffolding hides the fact, you can never walk along a slopped glass roof to fix major 'issues' with any downpipe that goes tits in the future
Use a flexible backing rod in the void. Usually made of foam plastic. Basic filler when jointing both sides of precast concrete panels, before the sealant is applied. 20 metre rolls. Cheers,Phil.
Another great video 👍 What an absolute nightmare for the customer but thankfully they got a professional to rectify their problems and hopefully give them a less stressful Christmas. Based on the rest of the builder's work, I would assume the 40mm gap was due to them not building the base brickwork accurately and so the windows had to be fixed out of square
Another great video. Considering YT is a side hustle to your actual job you are doing brilliant at it. I can’t not watch your videos because I know I’ll learn something I might need to remember and use in the future. Appreciate your work!
Really informative video Adam. You put your trust in so-called professionals to complete a job and when it goes pear shaped your having to put it right. That gap along the frame was so much I am not surprised it wasn't water tight (35 tubes of sealant wow!). It was lucky for the owner you were able to put it right for him. Great job.
I worked for a small glazing company for 20 years, we installed lots of glass roofs to existing and new builds, BUT we never installed the lead - we did however always make sure the builder was aware and had that sorted and ready for us for when we got to site to install so we could leave it watertight by the time we finished and left site.
@Mr_A_Builders Hi, yes it was already set in for when we arrived on site, maybe a few times they did it after but I can't remember that happening many times. To my knowledge there was never an issue
To be fair the detail i would have done would have been to foam fill the glazing ridge then seal over the top, mechanically fixed a grp 100x50x1.5mm flashing trim to the wall sealing the top edge with a thin bead of silicone wanting a minor blead to the top edge with a 150mm overlap at the joints laying away from the house as you did with the lead. Then dress 2 clear courses vertically in lead and over to the edge of the ridge cap trim. Just my 2 pence, and appreciate the grp trim is overkill but given access i would overkill, just £15 a Lm for trim and silicone but you could VE out that option to the clients budget. You're a class act and would be happy with your remedy here though let me state this. With regards to the parapet upstand for a top job, i would fix down 18mm marine ply, epdm or liquid seal over with a 50mm lap down the wall and get a 2 part aluminium coping system to cap off, with the potential for a cladding panel with welded corners and conceal fix for the remaining brickwork on the glazed roof side of the parapet. Keep the vids coming bro. N Lincs
Ah cheers man. Nice one. Yes, overkill really isn't a nasty word in this instance due to, as you say, the access. Really appreciate you watching and commenting mate, take care.
What a mess. Fair play for sorting it for them, must be so much of this mess out there. Think I would have used a polyethylene rope to help fill the gap, mastic that in with wet seal and cap it over. We use it to bond the gaps behind the aco’s with inspection bends & it never lets us down.
@@Mr_A_Builders Also called backer rod in the USA , it's a rope made of foam basically and is used as a gap filler..btw great work Adam, professional as always
You did a good job with installing the lead flashing. That polymer sealant was a great choice to use with the lead flashing. Keep up the good quality of work. Your attention to detail is valuable to you and your customer. Hello from Canada.
Did the exact same style of build, but slightly larger about 8 years ago down here in London, we had a structural glass company supply and fit all the glass and we did all the weathering afterwards. Not sure if that's standard? But being the builders, and also redoing the entire roof at the time, didn't think anything of it, really, I would prefer my guys do it. These structural glass guys were all young, all they knew was how to fit the glass. I always make it my business to check and assist if needed all subby work. I've usually asked them how they will do the job before they get their flask out =). Those 'copings' are shocking, it's something you just don't see. What I do see though, is not wide enough copings, with drips right up against the brick work. Shocking. Whatever happened to that job with the side access you we're doing? Was that the end of your involvement? Will we get to see the finished article?
Brilliant video very informative. I’m not a builder but love every minute of your videos. I know it is skilled hard work for you but it is great entertainment for me. Thanks.
loved your comments I spotted the capping only because of my extention, great idea of the lead capping. I trust you to always do the best job. The windows don't pass the smell test, they are not fitted flat to the wall, the brick work should have been adjusted to fit, not the other way around, it's not strictly a roof as its a glass. The window on the other roof is not a roof and you recognise that as a fan Light, same as the leaking glass fan lights. Seems the customer has got stuck between two trades that are happy to argue the toss instead of putting right their poor workmanship and mistakes.
I would have forced lengths of heating pipe insulation into the gap before sealing you can form a taper by taking a sliver out of the slit . What a careless bodge by the installer.As there was no fall on the flashing I would have turned back half an inch of each length and dressed the next one over the top of it or at least doubled the overlap but you have made a superior job to the original bodgey work.
35 tubes of silly billy😂 I’d of just bonded the trim to the frame then run a bead between the trim and brick. The Soudal fix all stuff is very very good Adam. They do one that just an adhesive and its super strong
Bless all you, I am across the Pond, I had different issues on lightweight concrete roof, found 😮 hand falls of nails and unmixed concrete mix under some of my tiles. Additionally un flashed edges, now I have to 2-3 sheets of rotted plywood. I am peeved to the max. Thank you for roof fixing schooling. Outstanding work ethic.
Its like a bridge builder making a bridge that is short by a few inches and expecting the road builder to fill the gap. The wall was there , the initial measuring was poor. Your solution is good but horribly expensive for the client. Its a while since I bought a roll of Code Five. Ideally those sections should be lead welded. I have a portapac welding set and a leading torch if you need one, but I am in Scotland. Good job guys.
Another informative and very interesting video Adam. Great job done by you and Mat to get the place watertight in time for Christmas. The customer will be happy with that im sure. Looking forward to sundays episode. Cheers 🍻
The brick work capping is a no no should have copping stone with a overhang and a drip on the underside of the copping stone both sides of the copping stone.
That glazing profile obviously touches the wall but because of the angle is open at the top where you get your hand in needed a angled fillet with a upstand as it hits the wall fitted by window fitter.
Waterproofing is its own specialty trade in California. The same with architectural details and installation who hire consultants to spec and inspect the system. There are companies who test installations for water intrusion and leaking panels. They will do random sections of glass curtain walls before signing off as waterproof.
I have seen a plastic frame conservatory screwed onto a wall, directly onto the outside wall render and not even into a groove cut into the render first. I pointed this out to the owner and was told the conservatory people always do it like that (they said) with no problems of leaking into the new add-on room, down the vertical walls from the outside. The gap was about 3-4mm mostly, top too bottom due to the roughness of the original house render. Of course when it was finished and had cost over £8,000 I think (it wasn't all that big) it leaked the first time it rained. There wasn't even any filler of some kind between the frame and the house render when it was finished. But telling the house owner about the problem when I did (I'm not a builder but my dad was for many years after WW2 and he showed me a lot) didn't make me all that popular when I was sadly proved right the first time it rained. A west facing end of the house and getting the full blast of the wind (up a mountain side) is a recipe for rain getting in somewhere. Fab video by the way and I have taken note of all the different sealers etc. you used on the job. Thanks from an enthusiastic DIY'er.
Should have bought you down to sort out the house we bought. Extension built by a very keen DIYer. You would have had a fit!! IE, for starters, the wall at the top of the stairs was held in place by..................... expanding foam! That was the least of the issues. Love you ethic, good job.
I`m a self employed window fitter. Normally that 40mm would be taken up by letting the roof drop down a degree or two, so I can`t see why you wouldn`t let it drop back to the wall unless its tighter at one end, or perhaps the steel or something underneath was preventing the ridge from dropping down a few mill. Either way they should have made some kind of platform to lead to,as you did and yes the installer should be leading it. A word of caution regarding all these super clear hybrid polymer sealants. I`ve used a couple of types that make all sorts of claims, when I returned to the job a year or so later they either turned to vaseline or cracked and disintegrated .I`d stick to a good quality neutral cure silicone for most jobs, except on self cleaning glass where you do have to pick a specific sealant. Soudal make one I think its initials s.c.g. for self clean glass that seems ok
Long term solution for that is have a proper lead worker join the lead together (not welded) but with what we call clinks (not sure if the same down south we’re in Scotland, I would probably ask for the upstand on the lead together going as high as possible and extend the lead flashing as far onto the window as possible without going onto the glass….. also use patination oil on every part of the lead to ensure no unsightly streaks down the glass from oxidation…… just my input 🤘 extension looks amazing inside & out other than the shoddy workmanship on the flashing
@ just signed off on our final re roof of the year due to start 16th December fingers crossed finished for 20th then that’s us until the new year 👍 all the best big fella
hi adam great video as usual, i have used fix all in the past and found it to be a great product,it has great adhesion and stays crystal clear. looking forward to many more videos.
Just get the parapet wall fiberglassed over the top with a trim on the front .... The glass roof edge is meant to have an angled fixing strip screwed into the wall then the glass panel just clips in .... As well as a sealing strip that acts as a flashing
You did exactly what I thought should be done. Glad you added the additional lead flashing. My thoughts were also the same for the parapet wall, either fibreglass or lead, lead preferably. Was the glass roof too narrow in the first place?
@@Mr_A_BuildersAll good mate thanks. Too cold for me to work out doors this time of year. Planning a combined garden room and storage shed for the new year. Trying to workout which would be better/cheaper, buying of the shelf log cabin or building. My ambitions tend not to match my wallet 😂.
I was wondering if they made the roof light/window to narrow. They should have also fitted a rubber gasket to close and seal the unit. You could definitely see the lead work was all wrong and your solution was bang on.
Closed cell backer rods inserted in the gap before sealing would help a lot. It would provide support and allow the sealant to stretch and compress to accommodate movement caused by fluctuations in temperature. Plus you save a lot on sealant.
I reckon it’s one of two possibilities, 1. the window company wrongly measured the pitch of the window which is attached to the roof. Which is guide of the pitch of the glass roof, combined with wrongly measured transoms. Or 2. Simply just measured the glass roof to side of the house incorrectly. (Probably abit of both tbf) ** Therefore the 40mm gap, an experienced fitter would of clocked it, but was probably told to make it work, but your lead work will definitely sort that out for sure, you guys always do a great job. 👏 👌🍺
Great vid, as usual, i would of filled the void half way up with liquid epoxy, this would of one bridged the void/gap, and tied the window frame to the wall, and then used C1 or similar
I'm hearing ya mate. Thing is I couldn't risk anything pouring through and adding to the clients nightmares! Cheers, Steven. Hope all is good with you.
Hell of a good job you’ve done young man. Bit weird the window company don’t seal it up. Perhaps there was a crew doing the job that day and couldn’t be bothered to do anymore. Well done.
Adam, you are very brave putting your hands behind that lead as you don't like spiders!! i am sure there are some big ones lurking in there for the winter!! I am sure that extension cost a lot of money - such a shame they did such a poor job of the flashing, as you say the leadwork is crucial to keeping the roof water tight. Nick
You should have glued the trim in first. Also keep the trim as is at 5 meters. Not cut as more chance of water getting in on each cut of the trim. Then double seal it before you put the lead flashing
My guess on this is that the extension isn't perfectly in line with the house wall. I wouldn't be surprised if, at the garden end, the roof beam is tight to the wall but that it runs out over the huge length of the roof to give that 40mm gap at the house end. However, it should certainly have been sealed. Was it a case of "How the heck are we going to seal that?" "I dunno."
If you apply strips of exterior plyboard bitumen painted before just short of lead width sealed down with appropriate sealant this would also help lead lay flat and reduce cost of loads sealant there should be at least 150mm overlap of lead join didn't see that in the video either but we'll done for sorting the problem for customer, such a shame some people (builders) get involved in projects and dont understand what water (rain) can do
Never heard of an installer/ not being responsible for for making their install water tight, maybe thats normal in other countries , personally it sounds like a way to avoid future liability when something goes wrong, “we just install the roof, not our job to make sure its water tight”
Going on evidence provided the builder has bedded/set and fixed wall plate in position and measearements provided to frame fabrication manufacturer whether/either from builder(my hunch) are short of requirements. The reason the argument occurred seems because the glazed hadn't estimated for all the added extra flashing lead works due to builders short measurements..like yourself all builders work to finished super structure and glazing fabricators contracts manager measures all final fabricating dimensions and specifications to projects stated and quoted for. Frame/glazing/flashings/gutters and waste pipes. When realisation of the added costs glazed hasn't allowed for and no literature to state otherwise he's told builder to fish...moral of story..bill of quantities for itemized works..Respect skipper thanks again
someones made a mistake measuring that. no logical reason for that huge gap. they were restricted by the end window so had to go with that angle and gouldnt drop it down to go against the wall. gutter side is proably very tight so couldnt move over either. someone bodged it to make it fit. i think it would have cut in insulation and then siliconed it . then get some little flashings bent into a rough l shape and then leaded over that. you really got the caulk out on this job . 35 tubes wasnt too bad . i thought a lot more.
BOTH,the lack of understanding of CORRECT WEATHERING REQUIREMENT,,,is what is lacking today. leadwork is the work of skilled plumbers who were trained in that diciplin.these days any chancer puts a bit of flashing in regardless of roof pitch ,waterline or prevailing wether.!!,,,MASTIC IS KING TODAY.!!
Great video, the gap maybe caused by the pitch. It might be 40mm at the top and 10mm at the bottom / inside couldn't tell from the video. I think the biggest issue is their should have been a plastic trim (like what was located by the house on the downslope). I would have filled the gap with foam and then put trim over the top like you did, but like you said you have to wait for the foam to go off. But having said that the way you have done it gives it 3 layers of protection (sealant, plastic trim + sealant and lastly flashing). The foam would just limit the cold bridging. Thompson roof seal for the bricks (its dries a black ash colour + lasts 10 years at least) or any liquid roof would work but the Thompson dries a black ash colour so similar to the bricks already in place. If the customer doesn't mind the change in colour I would use Ultraflex liquid roof; its amazing and instantly waterproof and the sealant they do can be painted with their liquid roof in 20 minutes and bonds providing a complete seal. Flashing like you said if cost is not an option and you can find someone good enough to work with that size flashing would be ideal. Anyway great video nice to see someone going above just trying to repair what's already in place.
Lovely job. I would hate jobs like that mainly because its hard leaning over the glass so awkward. Plus I'm clumsy so would probably drop something on the glass.
Glazing companies opt out of lead work quite regularly due to unskilled staff. I manage a dg firm and it’s funny cos the installers that can lead often just do it through habit and diligence. Too many are scared of the responsibility
terrible , window company need shaming, disgusting work, your work looks great, i would lead the parapet and cope over the top, i would of sealed with silicone and capped it just like you did. brilliant job
I live in Portugal in my house there is a flat roof and we sealed it of with liquid rubber and some textile material. Almost like fiber glass. It has almost 10 years and it's still going strong.
my solution would be remove glass and make sure both transoms and rafter are sealed with top quality mastic silicone then replace glass ensuring continuation of gasket, the air space that's filled with foam needs removing to allow air to circulate down the rafter (stop straw effect) as condensation will form inside drainage channels then bond a epdm membrane with membrane adhesive (comes in a sausage cartridge ) to under top flashing overlap on glass then fit pressure plates and caps then would get a aluminium top flashing powder coated (can be manufactured locally to profile that works incorporated to fit into chase covering top transom with splice plates up to 3m long ) I have been fitting these over 50 years with the correct NVQ qualifications
Hahaha, window company "we don't make it waterproof". Imagine a plumber coming around to do a major install and then just shoving off without pressure testing claiming that "it's not my job to make sure there are no leaks".
Fair play Adam, wish I lived closer I’d love to have worked with you guys, everything you do is thought out and delivered professionally 🙌🏻 I lose jobs because I price to put trays in with jobs like this over parapet and where it will link…as we know the devil is in the detail.
Expanding foam tape tucked 10mm below the top of the aluminium frame then appropriate mastic sealant over the top then dress the lead back over. Should be cheaper and more stable than using sealant alone and easier to get a neat finish.
Surely that glass frame should have a water tight trim to be installed before the lead, otherwise you'll always end up with that external angle between the frame and the brick wall.
Personally in this situation i would get some aluminium or plastic clad steel bent to the pitch of the roof light. Cut this into 1.5m lenths with a 6 " overlap and a clear adhesive sealant on the joins and the wall. Renew the lead dressing it down neatly and pointed in with leadmate. Open ends of joints facing away from prevaling weather.
@Mr_A_Builders I'm good thanks, yes similar approach, although I wouldn't have bothered with the 30 tubes of silicone. Thinking about it, it wouldn't have hurt to scribe some 50mm celotex to the gap and then the custom fabricated capping folowed by the lead. Not really a lot else you can do. I have a fabricator local to me with a big press/ guillotine so can get sheet metal formed easily.
That’s a grand job you’ve done there Adam. As for that window company I’ll have to say I’m not impressed with them full stop, I can’t believe the 40mm gap they have left and also not making it waterproof. Thank gawd that Matt has shaved his moustache off, cos he was starting to look like a younger version of Alf Garnett 😂. Once again a very enjoyable video 😁👍
Love your content and quality workmanship. Thank you for supporting the Children's Hospital.
Oh wow!!! Thank you, Aaron! That's ace mate!
Same happened to me. Surely legislation required
@kendom33 Really? With a glass roof?
When are you making the donation for the Children’s hospital ?
@SalomonX88 it's not a donation, so to speak, we're spending the donated money on presents for the kids in the hospital this Christmas. The cut off date for donations is the 12th, this Thursday.
I remember coming up in the trades 44 years now and 95% of the craftsman you meet on the job were there to see things done properly, the trend seems to have shifted to pass the buck, do the least you can get away with and try to put the blame on others when things go wrong.
People say I'm slow because I am old but I am fast enough to do the job right and not let the next guy fix my mistakes. I am a builder not a corporate boot licker my work and my word are the things I value most.
Exactly, back then the tradesmen met and sorted the problem together bt now it's either laziness or ego where every tradesmen on a job cares only for his part of the job.
1. I Would really enjoy working for you in my spare time. 2. Love watching you and your team do good quality work. 3. You are a Brummie too, just like me. 4. You explain simply and there is no ego.
Great job, most roof systems come with an aluminium flashing. Also the preformed grp are a great alternative. As someone who fitted windows for over 20 years my mantra was you can never over seal on a roof, we always sealed before we leaded. As long as the sealant is flexible and the lead isn’t too long, also correct overlapping and upstands it should last forever. Thanks for the videos, some of the best building work I’ve seen anywhere in 40+ years on tools
Ah thank you, William. That's a really nice thing to say, nice one. Agree with you regarding the over sealing, it's just not possible! Thanks again, take care.
Excellent, one of the best building videos I've ever watched
Haha! Get out of it!!!
I think you just gave the customer their best Christmas present. I cannot imagine their frustration at having to deal with what should have been an amazing extension that leaks for four years. Amazing job and Merry, early, Christmas
Real question is why did they put up with it leaking for four years? 🤔
I was very impressed with the lead work I wasn’t expecting the 2nd higher layer. Above and beyond and then some. Well done, a new subscriber.
Welcome, Paul! Thank you for subscribing, really appreciate it. Hope all is well your end, take care.
My Guess the builders cocked up on the measurements. When the glass roof was delivered it was pointed out that the size was wrong and was told just to fit it anyway as the cost to remake would come out of the builders pocket. I bet the builders said dont worry about the gap we will sort it. Then turned up with with stetsons and horses and played some country and western music whilst trying to cover the gap. Shows how much faith the customer has in you by asking you to come back in the new year and sort out the flat roof .
Hello Woody. The glass company measured and fitted the roof. The builders to that point had nothing to do with it.
It’s a possibility given that the builders fell out amongst themselves, if the wall was “ wavy “ they would have to pack it off. Wrong specifications on the type of glazing ?
@@Mr_A_Builders If the glass company measured and fitted it, then it's on them imo
That extension is a thermal bridging horror story. Totally unacceptable. If Building Control passed that they should be ashamed.
I was confused how they were creating thermal gaps with that setup
You are a very skilled individual and giving an honest appraisal of the situation to the customer is commendable, long may you be in business fella
And yes it’s a damn lovely kitchen, all that exposed brickwork, right up my street that style
What a shambles of a job by the window company! Adam, you did the best with what you had to deal with, without ripping it all out and starting again. Like you said, the parapet wall will be done properly in the New Year but you slowed down or hopefully stopped the water ingress through those bricks. I really hope that the family stays dry from now on. Nice one mate. 👍🏼
Hello Simon! Hope you've had a great week mate. Cheers man, yes it's an absolute shambles but hopefully ok now! Fingers crossed! Thanks once again mate, take care.
Surely they’re missing a cavity tray detail on parapet? Even the joint on a coping stone can fail so there will have to be a dpc under a coping which then creates a slip joint, and didn’t notice any weep holes above the door either. Aluminium cap it, nice repair though, great vid!
Agreed, aluminium capping
As a builder we do all the lead flashings for our window/ glass roof suppliers…. They fit we make it watertight.! 😊 .
that lead work you did looks stunning
The parapet wall should have caping instead of the headers
BOOM!
Another option for the parapet is aluminium pre-formed sectional capping,but the "brick on end" solution is very likely a "style over substance" affectation on the part of the architect/designer.
@@mikefarley8563 Darren of Build and Repair and Restore threatened to walk off of a job when the customer specified a parapet wall like that. They eventually came to an agreement but he ended up walking anyway a few days later when there was another host of problems.
Or lead cap
Parapet walls defo need covering with lead /zinc or grp.If there's no cavity in any of it paint it with storm dry brick emulsion is what I suggest.Belt and braces .How old is the house ?
Beautiful lead work there. The upstand looks great.
Cheers, mate.
You are right about the parapet wall but i would fit a bigger hopper and a 110mm downpipe, the existing hopper and 70mm downpipe is a real weakpoint and will be a cause of subsequent blockages.
totally - the run off from a steep Victorian main roof gutter set can be fast and excessive .. the scaffolding hides the fact, you can never walk along a slopped glass roof to fix major 'issues' with any downpipe that goes tits in the future
Use a flexible backing rod in the void. Usually made of foam plastic. Basic filler when jointing both sides of precast concrete panels, before the sealant is applied. 20 metre rolls.
Cheers,Phil.
Nice one, Phil. Thank you.
Well done Ad, the difference that will make to the family will be huge!!
After 4 years mate I hope it does mate. Nice one.
Another great video 👍 What an absolute nightmare for the customer but thankfully they got a professional to rectify their problems and hopefully give them a less stressful Christmas. Based on the rest of the builder's work, I would assume the 40mm gap was due to them not building the base brickwork accurately and so the windows had to be fixed out of square
Thank you, Alan. Either way mate the window company would have measured off of what was there, so it's totally their fault in my opinion.
Another great video. Considering YT is a side hustle to your actual job you are doing brilliant at it. I can’t not watch your videos because I know I’ll learn something I might need to remember and use in the future. Appreciate your work!
Really informative video Adam. You put your trust in so-called professionals to complete a job and when it goes pear shaped your having to put it right. That gap along the frame was so much I am not surprised it wasn't water tight (35 tubes of sealant wow!). It was lucky for the owner you were able to put it right for him. Great job.
Thank you mate. Appreciate that. Hope you're well.
What a grand piece of lead work ,well done chaps😊
Thank you, Nic. Nice one.
Makes a change to see a builder that cares and makes a brilliant job 😇
I worked for a small glazing company for 20 years, we installed lots of glass roofs to existing and new builds, BUT we never installed the lead - we did however always make sure the builder was aware and had that sorted and ready for us for when we got to site to install so we could leave it watertight by the time we finished and left site.
Hello Chris. How did that work then? They installed the lead before you got there?
@Mr_A_Builders Hi, yes it was already set in for when we arrived on site, maybe a few times they did it after but I can't remember that happening many times. To my knowledge there was never an issue
To be fair the detail i would have done would have been to foam fill the glazing ridge then seal over the top, mechanically fixed a grp 100x50x1.5mm flashing trim to the wall sealing the top edge with a thin bead of silicone wanting a minor blead to the top edge with a 150mm overlap at the joints laying away from the house as you did with the lead. Then dress 2 clear courses vertically in lead and over to the edge of the ridge cap trim. Just my 2 pence, and appreciate the grp trim is overkill but given access i would overkill, just £15 a Lm for trim and silicone but you could VE out that option to the clients budget. You're a class act and would be happy with your remedy here though let me state this. With regards to the parapet upstand for a top job, i would fix down 18mm marine ply, epdm or liquid seal over with a 50mm lap down the wall and get a 2 part aluminium coping system to cap off, with the potential for a cladding panel with welded corners and conceal fix for the remaining brickwork on the glazed roof side of the parapet. Keep the vids coming bro. N Lincs
Ah cheers man. Nice one. Yes, overkill really isn't a nasty word in this instance due to, as you say, the access. Really appreciate you watching and commenting mate, take care.
I'm.not a builder or roofer. However that was really interesting into the techniques used. Thank you
No worries! Thank you for watching!
Horror story there Adam. You did the best possible i think and sealing the bricks will gain a bit of respite for now. 👍👍👍
Hopefully Doug! Cheers man, hope you're well.
Such a nice bit work making that waterproof, lovely looking finish. The customer has done having you there 👍
Glad for the client that they got a decent builder in to end the nightmare. 👌👍
Cheers mate, appreciate that.
What a mess. Fair play for sorting it for them, must be so much of this mess out there. Think I would have used a polyethylene rope to help fill the gap, mastic that in with wet seal and cap it over. We use it to bond the gaps behind the aco’s with inspection bends & it never lets us down.
Got to honest mate I haven't heard of that stuff but I'll definitely be looking it up. Nice one, mate.
@@Mr_A_Builders Also called backer rod in the USA , it's a rope made of foam basically and is used as a gap filler..btw great work Adam, professional as always
You did a good job with installing the lead flashing. That polymer sealant was a great choice to use with the lead flashing. Keep up the good quality of work. Your attention to detail is valuable to you and your customer. Hello from Canada.
My worse nightmare... paying someone to do a job and it turns out a complete cowboy 🤠 yehaaaa
Great video, full of great tips. Many thanks👍👍👍
Did the exact same style of build, but slightly larger about 8 years ago down here in London, we had a structural glass company supply and fit all the glass and we did all the weathering afterwards. Not sure if that's standard? But being the builders, and also redoing the entire roof at the time, didn't think anything of it, really, I would prefer my guys do it. These structural glass guys were all young, all they knew was how to fit the glass.
I always make it my business to check and assist if needed all subby work. I've usually asked them how they will do the job before they get their flask out =).
Those 'copings' are shocking, it's something you just don't see. What I do see though, is not wide enough copings, with drips right up against the brick work. Shocking.
Whatever happened to that job with the side access you we're doing? Was that the end of your involvement? Will we get to see the finished article?
I hate flat roofs of any kind. One pinhole and water will get in. In this case it's necessary but I still don't like it.
Brilliant video very informative. I’m not a builder but love every minute of your videos. I know it is skilled hard work for you but it is great entertainment for me. Thanks.
Hello Peter. It's always great to hear that non- builders like to watch our stuff, thank you. Take care.
Most would have not taken that job, so credit to you Adam for sorting that mess, the lead work is impressive now.
Great video Adam! Nice to see a job being done right - and annoying to see how others bodge them in the first place!
What a nightmare for the customer. RUclips a blessing in times and situations like this. Gd man.
Got to be draughty and leaking heat with that hand-width gap between the wall and roof window!
Mate it must have been! Hopefully it's better now!
Nice job mate, I like that you staggered the lead strips from the plastic strips underneath 👍
Well noticed! Cheers mate.
loved your comments I spotted the capping only because of my extention, great idea of the lead capping. I trust you to always do the best job. The windows don't pass the smell test, they are not fitted flat to the wall, the brick work should have been adjusted to fit, not the other way around, it's not strictly a roof as its a glass. The window on the other roof is not a roof and you recognise that as a fan Light, same as the leaking glass fan lights. Seems the customer has got stuck between two trades that are happy to argue the toss instead of putting right their poor workmanship and mistakes.
I would have forced lengths of heating pipe insulation into the gap before sealing you can form a taper by taking a sliver out of the slit . What a careless bodge by the installer.As there was no fall on the flashing I would have turned back half an inch of each length and dressed the next one over the top of it or at least doubled the overlap but you have made a superior job to the original bodgey work.
35 tubes of silly billy😂
I’d of just bonded the trim to the frame then run a bead between the trim and brick.
The Soudal fix all stuff is very very good Adam.
They do one that just an adhesive and its super strong
Same Here
I'd of?? What does that even mean? I'd have possibly?
Bless all you, I am across the Pond, I had different issues on lightweight concrete roof, found 😮 hand falls of nails and unmixed concrete mix under some of my tiles. Additionally un flashed edges, now I have to 2-3 sheets of rotted plywood. I am peeved to the max. Thank you for roof fixing schooling. Outstanding work ethic.
I used liquid rubber on my front and back flat rooves and they're fantastic. Use enough and you can seal up the Channel Tunnel.
Yes mate it is supposed to be good stuff, we shall see! Thank you for watching.
Its like a bridge builder making a bridge that is short by a few inches and expecting the road builder to fill the gap. The wall was there , the initial measuring was poor. Your solution is good but horribly expensive for the client. Its a while since I bought a roll of Code Five. Ideally those sections should be lead welded. I have a portapac welding set and a leading torch if you need one, but I am in Scotland. Good job guys.
What a great video, thoroughly enjoyed it, fantastic job
Ah nice one, Paul. Appreciate that mate. Thank you.
You made a nice job of it in the end 👌🏻 the only other thing that may be worth considering is coating the brickwork with Stormdry if it’s 9” solid 👊🏻
Yes mate, Stormdry will be a must when we come to do it in the new year. Cheers man, take care.
Another informative and very interesting video Adam. Great job done by you and Mat to get the place watertight in time for Christmas. The customer will be happy with that im sure. Looking forward to sundays episode. Cheers 🍻
Great videos, great guys and quality workmanship. Love the videos 👍
I bet if you take the bricks off that you won’t find a tray installed, better still the missing weep vents will be a huge clue. Total botch job👎🏻
It's been poorly throughout, let's put it that way! But by the time we've finished with it'll be sound. Cheers man.
The brick work capping is a no no should have copping stone with a overhang and a drip on the underside of the copping stone both sides of the copping stone.
your right cheaper than lead and will do the job .
dont no about the liquid rubber can it breath , storm dry better
Another interesting and good video showing how it can all go wrong for honest hardworking who trust some professionals...mine field..
That's one way to look at it, Bruno.
That glazing profile obviously touches the wall but because of the angle is open at the top where you get your hand in needed a angled fillet with a upstand as it hits the wall fitted by window fitter.
Cheers mate. Anything would have been nice! Hope you're well.
Waterproofing is its own specialty trade in California. The same with architectural details and installation who hire consultants to spec and inspect the system. There are companies who test installations for water intrusion and leaking panels. They will do random sections of glass curtain walls before signing off as waterproof.
Nice one Paul! How is sunny California? Looking forward to the change of the guard in the new year?
I have seen a plastic frame conservatory screwed onto a wall, directly onto the outside wall render and not even into a groove cut into the render first. I pointed this out to the owner and was told the conservatory people always do it like that (they said) with no problems of leaking into the new add-on room, down the vertical walls from the outside.
The gap was about 3-4mm mostly, top too bottom due to the roughness of the original house render. Of course when it was finished and had cost over £8,000 I think (it wasn't all that big) it leaked the first time it rained. There wasn't even any filler of some kind between the frame and the house render when it was finished.
But telling the house owner about the problem when I did (I'm not a builder but my dad was for many years after WW2 and he showed me a lot) didn't make me all that popular when I was sadly proved right the first time it rained. A west facing end of the house and getting the full blast of the wind (up a mountain side) is a recipe for rain getting in somewhere.
Fab video by the way and I have taken note of all the different sealers etc. you used on the job. Thanks from an enthusiastic DIY'er.
Should have bought you down to sort out the house we bought. Extension built by a very keen DIYer. You would have had a fit!! IE, for starters, the wall at the top of the stairs was held in place by..................... expanding foam! That was the least of the issues. Love you ethic, good job.
Oh man! Sorry to hear that, Colin. Hope it's all sorted now?
I`m a self employed window fitter. Normally that 40mm would be taken up by letting the roof drop down a degree or two, so I can`t see why you wouldn`t let it drop back to the wall unless its tighter at one end, or perhaps the steel or something underneath was preventing the ridge from dropping down a few mill. Either way they should have made some kind of platform to lead to,as you did and yes the installer should be leading it.
A word of caution regarding all these super clear hybrid polymer sealants. I`ve used a couple of types that make all sorts of claims, when I returned to the job a year or so later they either turned to vaseline or cracked and disintegrated .I`d stick to a good quality neutral cure silicone for most jobs, except on self cleaning glass where you do have to pick a specific sealant. Soudal make one I think its initials s.c.g. for self clean glass that seems ok
Long term solution for that is have a proper lead worker join the lead together (not welded) but with what we call clinks (not sure if the same down south we’re in Scotland, I would probably ask for the upstand on the lead together going as high as possible and extend the lead flashing as far onto the window as possible without going onto the glass….. also use patination oil on every part of the lead to ensure no unsightly streaks down the glass from oxidation…… just my input 🤘 extension looks amazing inside & out other than the shoddy workmanship on the flashing
Nice one mate. Thank you for that. Hope you're busy?
@ just signed off on our final re roof of the year due to start 16th December fingers crossed finished for 20th then that’s us until the new year 👍 all the best big fella
@Telferroofing crikey you're cutting that one fine! Fair play mate, hope it all goes to plan. Take care.
@@Mr_A_Builders we are completing next doors roof tomorrow so already know what we’re up against so no stress 😂
The joins are also know as welts
hi adam great video as usual, i have used fix all in the past and found it to be a great product,it has great adhesion and stays crystal clear. looking forward to many more videos.
My brother has just had a similar extension done. His wall was capped in lightweight aluminium and looks great.
I love this guy. He keeps it real .Do the best you can with your experiences
Just get the parapet wall fiberglassed over the top with a trim on the front .... The glass roof edge is meant to have an angled fixing strip screwed into the wall then the glass panel just clips in .... As well as a sealing strip that acts as a flashing
Very well done mate you a true perfectionist I'm in the trade myself I would of done exactly same you smashed it quality work done right
Thank you, Leo. Appreciate that mate!
You did exactly what I thought should be done. Glad you added the additional lead flashing. My thoughts were also the same for the parapet wall, either fibreglass or lead, lead preferably. Was the glass roof too narrow in the first place?
Ah cheers man. Appreciate that. How's things?
@@Mr_A_BuildersAll good mate thanks. Too cold for me to work out doors this time of year. Planning a combined garden room and storage shed for the new year. Trying to workout which would be better/cheaper, buying of the shelf log cabin or building. My ambitions tend not to match my wallet 😂.
I was wondering if they made the roof light/window to narrow. They should have also fitted a rubber gasket to close and seal the unit. You could definitely see the lead work was all wrong and your solution was bang on.
Could have used compriband first to fill most of the gap then top with sealant.
Great job well done
Thank you, Paul.
Closed cell backer rods inserted in the gap before sealing would help a lot. It would provide support and allow the sealant to stretch and compress to accommodate movement caused by fluctuations in temperature. Plus you save a lot on sealant.
I reckon it’s one of two possibilities, 1. the window company wrongly measured the pitch of the window which is attached to the roof. Which is guide of the pitch of the glass roof, combined with wrongly measured transoms. Or 2. Simply just measured the glass roof to side of the house incorrectly. (Probably abit of both tbf)
** Therefore the 40mm gap, an experienced fitter would of clocked it, but was probably told to make it work, but your lead work will definitely sort that out for sure, you guys always do a great job. 👏 👌🍺
Great vid, as usual, i would of filled the void half way up with liquid epoxy, this would of one bridged the void/gap, and tied the window frame to the wall, and then used C1 or similar
I'm hearing ya mate. Thing is I couldn't risk anything pouring through and adding to the clients nightmares! Cheers, Steven. Hope all is good with you.
@@Mr_A_Builders Good point, so it was c1 first, then epoxy, then c1, your move 😀
Excellent work 😊 super stuff to correct a load of bollocks
I'm a simple man. I see Mr A Builder video. I click.
It seems we have more in common than just the name!
Hell of a good job you’ve done young man. Bit weird the window company don’t seal it up. Perhaps there was a crew doing the job that day and couldn’t be bothered to do anymore. Well done.
Adam, you are very brave putting your hands behind that lead as you don't like spiders!! i am sure there are some big ones lurking in there for the winter!! I am sure that extension cost a lot of money - such a shame they did such a poor job of the flashing, as you say the leadwork is crucial to keeping the roof water tight. Nick
I honestly never thought of that! Oh man that turns my stomach!
You should have glued the trim in first. Also keep the trim as is at 5 meters. Not cut as more chance of water getting in on each cut of the trim. Then double seal it before you put the lead flashing
I did glue it mate. I agree with keeping it at 5m but I couldn't as I was on my own, it would have been really messy.
My guess on this is that the extension isn't perfectly in line with the house wall. I wouldn't be surprised if, at the garden end, the roof beam is tight to the wall but that it runs out over the huge length of the roof to give that 40mm gap at the house end.
However, it should certainly have been sealed. Was it a case of "How the heck are we going to seal that?" "I dunno."
It's a consistent 40mm all the way down, Ian. It's quite something!
It's a lovely extension except for that nonsense. I love what you did with the lead.
It is beautiful, Andy. Cheers mate.
Great job guys fair play for fixing it for the home owners
Thank you, Noel. Hope you're well.
If you apply strips of exterior plyboard bitumen painted before just short of lead width sealed down with appropriate sealant this would also help lead lay flat and reduce cost of loads sealant there should be at least 150mm overlap of lead join didn't see that in the video either but we'll done for sorting the problem for customer, such a shame some people (builders) get involved in projects and dont understand what water (rain) can do
There's a lap of 150mm I assure you.
Never heard of an installer/ not being responsible for for making their install water tight, maybe thats normal in other countries , personally it sounds like a way to avoid future liability when something goes wrong, “we just install the roof, not our job to make sure its water tight”
I think that's exactly what it is, mate.
Going on evidence provided the builder has bedded/set and fixed wall plate in position and measearements provided to frame fabrication manufacturer whether/either from builder(my hunch) are short of requirements. The reason the argument occurred seems because the glazed hadn't estimated for all the added extra flashing lead works due to builders short measurements..like yourself all builders work to finished super structure and glazing fabricators contracts manager measures all final fabricating dimensions and specifications to projects stated and quoted for. Frame/glazing/flashings/gutters and waste pipes.
When realisation of the added costs glazed hasn't allowed for and no literature to state otherwise he's told builder to fish...moral of story..bill of quantities for itemized works..Respect skipper thanks again
someones made a mistake measuring that. no logical reason for that huge gap. they were restricted by the end window so had to go with that angle and gouldnt drop it down to go against the wall. gutter side is proably very tight so couldnt move over either. someone bodged it to make it fit.
i think it would have cut in insulation and then siliconed it . then get some little flashings bent into a rough l shape and then leaded over that.
you really got the caulk out on this job . 35 tubes wasnt too bad . i thought a lot more.
Yes Alan, someone has messed up big time! Oh well, hopefully it's all sorted now!
BOTH,the lack of understanding of CORRECT WEATHERING REQUIREMENT,,,is what is lacking today. leadwork is the work of skilled plumbers who were trained in that diciplin.these days any chancer puts a bit of flashing in regardless of roof pitch ,waterline or prevailing wether.!!,,,MASTIC IS KING TODAY.!!
Great video Adam. With surprise content rather than from the regular menu. Bit of a builders advent calendar. 😜 What’s next.
Yes John, it was a purposeful attempt to shake things up a bit! Glad you enjoyed it mate. Thank you for watching.
Great video, the gap maybe caused by the pitch. It might be 40mm at the top and 10mm at the bottom / inside couldn't tell from the video. I think the biggest issue is their should have been a plastic trim (like what was located by the house on the downslope). I would have filled the gap with foam and then put trim over the top like you did, but like you said you have to wait for the foam to go off. But having said that the way you have done it gives it 3 layers of protection (sealant, plastic trim + sealant and lastly flashing). The foam would just limit the cold bridging. Thompson roof seal for the bricks (its dries a black ash colour + lasts 10 years at least) or any liquid roof would work but the Thompson dries a black ash colour so similar to the bricks already in place. If the customer doesn't mind the change in colour I would use Ultraflex liquid roof; its amazing and instantly waterproof and the sealant they do can be painted with their liquid roof in 20 minutes and bonds providing a complete seal. Flashing like you said if cost is not an option and you can find someone good enough to work with that size flashing would be ideal. Anyway great video nice to see someone going above just trying to repair what's already in place.
Lovely job. I would hate jobs like that mainly because its hard leaning over the glass so awkward. Plus I'm clumsy so would probably drop something on the glass.
Haha! I would never do such a thing...honest...!!!
Glazing companies opt out of lead work quite regularly due to unskilled staff. I manage a dg firm and it’s funny cos the installers that can lead often just do it through habit and diligence. Too many are scared of the responsibility
terrible , window company need shaming, disgusting work, your work looks great, i would lead the parapet and cope over the top, i would of sealed with silicone and capped it just like you did. brilliant job
Cheers mate. Hope you're having a nice evening.
Who measured the glazing! Stevie Wonder 😂
Haha! Hello must have forgotten his brail tape measure!
I live in Portugal in my house there is a flat roof and we sealed it of with liquid rubber and some textile material. Almost like fiber glass. It has almost 10 years and it's still going strong.
my solution would be remove glass and make sure both transoms and rafter are sealed with top quality mastic silicone then replace glass ensuring continuation of gasket, the air space that's filled with foam needs removing to allow air to circulate down the rafter (stop straw effect) as condensation will form inside drainage channels then bond a epdm membrane with membrane adhesive (comes in a sausage cartridge ) to under top flashing overlap on glass then fit pressure plates and caps then would get a aluminium top flashing powder coated (can be manufactured locally to profile that works incorporated to fit into chase covering top transom with splice plates up to 3m long )
I have been fitting these over 50 years with the correct NVQ qualifications
Hahaha, window company "we don't make it waterproof". Imagine a plumber coming around to do a major install and then just shoving off without pressure testing claiming that "it's not my job to make sure there are no leaks".
I know! It's crazy to me too.
Fair play Adam, wish I lived closer I’d love to have worked with you guys, everything you do is thought out and delivered professionally 🙌🏻 I lose jobs because I price to put trays in with jobs like this over parapet and where it will link…as we know the devil is in the detail.
Expanding foam tape tucked 10mm below the top of the aluminium frame then appropriate mastic sealant over the top then dress the lead back over.
Should be cheaper and more stable than using sealant alone and easier to get a neat finish.
Nice one mate, appreciate that.
Surely that glass frame should have a water tight trim to be installed before the lead, otherwise you'll always end up with that external angle between the frame and the brick wall.
Exactly my thoughts, mate. But no!
Personally in this situation i would get some aluminium or plastic clad steel bent to the pitch of the roof light.
Cut this into 1.5m lenths with a 6 " overlap and a clear adhesive sealant on the joins and the wall.
Renew the lead dressing it down neatly and pointed in with leadmate. Open ends of joints facing away from prevaling weather.
Sounds a lot like what I did Paul! Hope you're well, mate.
@Mr_A_Builders
I'm good thanks, yes similar approach, although I wouldn't have bothered with the 30 tubes of silicone. Thinking about it, it wouldn't have hurt to scribe some 50mm celotex to the gap and then the custom fabricated capping folowed by the lead.
Not really a lot else you can do. I have a fabricator local to me with a big press/ guillotine so can get sheet metal formed easily.
That’s a grand job you’ve done there Adam. As for that window company I’ll have to say I’m not impressed with them full stop, I can’t believe the 40mm gap they have left and also not making it waterproof. Thank gawd that Matt has shaved his moustache off, cos he was starting to look like a younger version of Alf Garnett 😂. Once again a very enjoyable video 😁👍
Haha! I can confirm that he and Alf Garnet have totally different attitudes to life and the world! Haha! Cheers man.
I'm in the states, and to help fill the gap so you don't need so much goop, we have closed cell foam backer rod, SIKA and M-D brand in my area.
Nice one, Joseph. What part of America are you from?