@SalomonX88 it's not a donation, so to speak, we're spending the donated money on presents for the kids in the hospital this Christmas. The cut off date for donations is the 12th, this Thursday.
I remember coming up in the trades 44 years now and 95% of the craftsman you meet on the job were there to see things done properly, the trend seems to have shifted to pass the buck, do the least you can get away with and try to put the blame on others when things go wrong. People say I'm slow because I am old but I am fast enough to do the job right and not let the next guy fix my mistakes. I am a builder not a corporate boot licker my work and my word are the things I value most.
Exactly, back then the tradesmen met and sorted the problem together bt now it's either laziness or ego where every tradesmen on a job cares only for his part of the job.
Been watching the channel now for quite some time really impressed with content. Hope the channel continues to grow and all the best with future Work Merry Christmas.
Great job, most roof systems come with an aluminium flashing. Also the preformed grp are a great alternative. As someone who fitted windows for over 20 years my mantra was you can never over seal on a roof, we always sealed before we leaded. As long as the sealant is flexible and the lead isn’t too long, also correct overlapping and upstands it should last forever. Thanks for the videos, some of the best building work I’ve seen anywhere in 40+ years on tools
Ah thank you, William. That's a really nice thing to say, nice one. Agree with you regarding the over sealing, it's just not possible! Thanks again, take care.
1. I Would really enjoy working for you in my spare time. 2. Love watching you and your team do good quality work. 3. You are a Brummie too, just like me. 4. You explain simply and there is no ego.
What a shambles of a job by the window company! Adam, you did the best with what you had to deal with, without ripping it all out and starting again. Like you said, the parapet wall will be done properly in the New Year but you slowed down or hopefully stopped the water ingress through those bricks. I really hope that the family stays dry from now on. Nice one mate. 👍🏼
Hello Simon! Hope you've had a great week mate. Cheers man, yes it's an absolute shambles but hopefully ok now! Fingers crossed! Thanks once again mate, take care.
That was my thought. And airtightness is probably also appalling. It's pretty bad by design overglazed, with maybe 16mm 2G ali-spacer units horizontalish, maybe U=2.5 - depends what the frame is like. And all the bricks are a straight-through continuous thermal bridge (edit: he says at the end that there are brick slips so maybe it's not as bad as it looks). And given the lack of attention to detailing that top joint I'm going to assume there's no airtightness taping or foaming or gooping either. The whole point of building control is to stop people building this sort of crap.
You are a very skilled individual and giving an honest appraisal of the situation to the customer is commendable, long may you be in business fella And yes it’s a damn lovely kitchen, all that exposed brickwork, right up my street that style
I think you just gave the customer their best Christmas present. I cannot imagine their frustration at having to deal with what should have been an amazing extension that leaks for four years. Amazing job and Merry, early, Christmas
Bless all you, I am across the Pond, I had different issues on lightweight concrete roof, found 😮 hand falls of nails and unmixed concrete mix under some of my tiles. Additionally un flashed edges, now I have to 2-3 sheets of rotted plywood. I am peeved to the max. Thank you for roof fixing schooling. Outstanding work ethic.
Really informative video Adam. You put your trust in so-called professionals to complete a job and when it goes pear shaped your having to put it right. That gap along the frame was so much I am not surprised it wasn't water tight (35 tubes of sealant wow!). It was lucky for the owner you were able to put it right for him. Great job.
I am just glad we done projects like these from the ground up that way you know its going to be correct and as there is no one else to blame you do it right first time.And yes over the years you do learn from small mistakes and own upto them and rectify them accordingly,and you sir done a great recovery from what budget you probably had been given by an already vunerable customer.👍
Use a flexible backing rod in the void. Usually made of foam plastic. Basic filler when jointing both sides of precast concrete panels, before the sealant is applied. 20 metre rolls. Cheers,Phil.
Another great video. Considering YT is a side hustle to your actual job you are doing brilliant at it. I can’t not watch your videos because I know I’ll learn something I might need to remember and use in the future. Appreciate your work!
Closed cell backer rods inserted in the gap before sealing would help a lot. It would provide support and allow the sealant to stretch and compress to accommodate movement caused by fluctuations in temperature. Plus you save a lot on sealant.
Surely they’re missing a cavity tray detail on parapet? Even the joint on a coping stone can fail so there will have to be a dpc under a coping which then creates a slip joint, and didn’t notice any weep holes above the door either. Aluminium cap it, nice repair though, great vid!
Agreed aluminium cap or zinc. The problem using DPC under a cope is it can break the bond between the cope and the wall itself, iv seen 150mm wide copes blown down because of DPC.
What a mess. Fair play for sorting it for them, must be so much of this mess out there. Think I would have used a polyethylene rope to help fill the gap, mastic that in with wet seal and cap it over. We use it to bond the gaps behind the aco’s with inspection bends & it never lets us down.
@@Mr_A_Builders Also called backer rod in the USA , it's a rope made of foam basically and is used as a gap filler..btw great work Adam, professional as always
Brilliant video very informative. I’m not a builder but love every minute of your videos. I know it is skilled hard work for you but it is great entertainment for me. Thanks.
Also a good option I've used in this situation is laying the single ply on the flat roof up the internal all, over the brickwork onto and down the front face terminating on a preformed trim around the perimeter. Gives a lovely finish.
Another informative and very interesting video Adam. Great job done by you and Mat to get the place watertight in time for Christmas. The customer will be happy with that im sure. Looking forward to sundays episode. Cheers 🍻
My Guess the builders cocked up on the measurements. When the glass roof was delivered it was pointed out that the size was wrong and was told just to fit it anyway as the cost to remake would come out of the builders pocket. I bet the builders said dont worry about the gap we will sort it. Then turned up with with stetsons and horses and played some country and western music whilst trying to cover the gap. Shows how much faith the customer has in you by asking you to come back in the new year and sort out the flat roof .
It’s a possibility given that the builders fell out amongst themselves, if the wall was “ wavy “ they would have to pack it off. Wrong specifications on the type of glazing ?
You did a good job with installing the lead flashing. That polymer sealant was a great choice to use with the lead flashing. Keep up the good quality of work. Your attention to detail is valuable to you and your customer. Hello from Canada.
I worked for a small glazing company for 20 years, we installed lots of glass roofs to existing and new builds, BUT we never installed the lead - we did however always make sure the builder was aware and had that sorted and ready for us for when we got to site to install so we could leave it watertight by the time we finished and left site.
@Mr_A_Builders Hi, yes it was already set in for when we arrived on site, maybe a few times they did it after but I can't remember that happening many times. To my knowledge there was never an issue
@16:20 ‘I’m trying to bodge it’ … you’ve nailed that. (On a positive note fire retardant foam fill trimmed to the roof profile angle, a plastic cover strip if you like and install the flashing properly!)
The biggest issue with the Soudal fix all would have been the working temp range (-40 -> +90) and UV issues I think. But its UV protected by the lead and since this is the UK, the temp ranges would not be an issue. Mechanically it should be absolutely fine especially considering the spanning distance. A nice catch and well thought out solution. Great job 👍🍻
Another option for the parapet is aluminium pre-formed sectional capping,but the "brick on end" solution is very likely a "style over substance" affectation on the part of the architect/designer.
@@mikefarley8563 Darren of Build and Repair and Restore threatened to walk off of a job when the customer specified a parapet wall like that. They eventually came to an agreement but he ended up walking anyway a few days later when there was another host of problems.
Parapet walls defo need covering with lead /zinc or grp.If there's no cavity in any of it paint it with storm dry brick emulsion is what I suggest.Belt and braces .How old is the house ?
loved your comments I spotted the capping only because of my extention, great idea of the lead capping. I trust you to always do the best job. The windows don't pass the smell test, they are not fitted flat to the wall, the brick work should have been adjusted to fit, not the other way around, it's not strictly a roof as its a glass. The window on the other roof is not a roof and you recognise that as a fan Light, same as the leaking glass fan lights. Seems the customer has got stuck between two trades that are happy to argue the toss instead of putting right their poor workmanship and mistakes.
Did the exact same style of build, but slightly larger about 8 years ago down here in London, we had a structural glass company supply and fit all the glass and we did all the weathering afterwards. Not sure if that's standard? But being the builders, and also redoing the entire roof at the time, didn't think anything of it, really, I would prefer my guys do it. These structural glass guys were all young, all they knew was how to fit the glass. I always make it my business to check and assist if needed all subby work. I've usually asked them how they will do the job before they get their flask out =). Those 'copings' are shocking, it's something you just don't see. What I do see though, is not wide enough copings, with drips right up against the brick work. Shocking. Whatever happened to that job with the side access you we're doing? Was that the end of your involvement? Will we get to see the finished article?
Its like a bridge builder making a bridge that is short by a few inches and expecting the road builder to fill the gap. The wall was there , the initial measuring was poor. Your solution is good but horribly expensive for the client. Its a while since I bought a roll of Code Five. Ideally those sections should be lead welded. I have a portapac welding set and a leading torch if you need one, but I am in Scotland. Good job guys.
Long term solution for that is have a proper lead worker join the lead together (not welded) but with what we call clinks (not sure if the same down south we’re in Scotland, I would probably ask for the upstand on the lead together going as high as possible and extend the lead flashing as far onto the window as possible without going onto the glass….. also use patination oil on every part of the lead to ensure no unsightly streaks down the glass from oxidation…… just my input 🤘 extension looks amazing inside & out other than the shoddy workmanship on the flashing
@ just signed off on our final re roof of the year due to start 16th December fingers crossed finished for 20th then that’s us until the new year 👍 all the best big fella
nice work mate. I would probably StormDry the wall above the flatty and the glass roof. doesn't look like theyve done cavity trays, so StormDry is a must in my opinion.
I reckon it’s one of two possibilities, 1. the window company wrongly measured the pitch of the window which is attached to the roof. Which is guide of the pitch of the glass roof, combined with wrongly measured transoms. Or 2. Simply just measured the glass roof to side of the house incorrectly. (Probably abit of both tbf) ** Therefore the 40mm gap, an experienced fitter would of clocked it, but was probably told to make it work, but your lead work will definitely sort that out for sure, you guys always do a great job. 👏 👌🍺
You did exactly what I thought should be done. Glad you added the additional lead flashing. My thoughts were also the same for the parapet wall, either fibreglass or lead, lead preferably. Was the glass roof too narrow in the first place?
@@Mr_A_BuildersAll good mate thanks. Too cold for me to work out doors this time of year. Planning a combined garden room and storage shed for the new year. Trying to workout which would be better/cheaper, buying of the shelf log cabin or building. My ambitions tend not to match my wallet 😂.
I was wondering if they made the roof light/window to narrow. They should have also fitted a rubber gasket to close and seal the unit. You could definitely see the lead work was all wrong and your solution was bang on.
Good video as always Adam, Poor on site surveying by the glazing company i'd guess - ! As you say the parapit wall is the main source of ingress. The adjacent bricks & mortar where clearly wet. You'll probably find that the glass roof has a small fall, back towards the kitchen, from the parapit wall. The water will always find it's way too the lowest point..... In this case the bowl !!! Might be helpful in the future. All the best Paul 👍
Actually, having thought about it. The water will most likely be bleeding out the brickwork & running along the top of the rsj & then into the living space. I would say don't forget the drip cills on the capping stone but, I know you won't..... !! All the best. P.
hi adam great video as usual, i have used fix all in the past and found it to be a great product,it has great adhesion and stays crystal clear. looking forward to many more videos.
That glazing profile obviously touches the wall but because of the angle is open at the top where you get your hand in needed a angled fillet with a upstand as it hits the wall fitted by window fitter.
I would have forced lengths of heating pipe insulation into the gap before sealing you can form a taper by taking a sliver out of the slit . What a careless bodge by the installer.As there was no fall on the flashing I would have turned back half an inch of each length and dressed the next one over the top of it or at least doubled the overlap but you have made a superior job to the original bodgey work.
Should have bought you down to sort out the house we bought. Extension built by a very keen DIYer. You would have had a fit!! IE, for starters, the wall at the top of the stairs was held in place by..................... expanding foam! That was the least of the issues. Love you ethic, good job.
Waterproofing is its own specialty trade in California. The same with architectural details and installation who hire consultants to spec and inspect the system. There are companies who test installations for water intrusion and leaking panels. They will do random sections of glass curtain walls before signing off as waterproof.
Those brick parapet walls are always a nightmare here in the States. As a 30-year pointer, we deal with these all the time. A thorough soaking with 100% silane-based sealer after repointing would definitely do it justice, especially if the client doesn't like the look of capping over the rowlock.
Fill gap. Then use 50mm or 70mm capping glued and fitted whilst filler mastic is still wet as this will help,stick it down. Make sure filler is standing proud and compresses down whilst putting cappit in place. Try to slope capital to simular angle of roof. Allow it rpto harden if possible so when lead is dressed down it doesn't form a gutter for water to gather as it has done in past. If foam had been used to fill in first place and cappit fitted and sealed. Lead dressed down. Maybe seal it down on bed of clear mastic to prevent capillary action under the lead. As an double glazing service engineer. Fixed a few of these fits. Just maybe seal brickwork with silacone waterproofer and paint on above flashing.
I have seen a plastic frame conservatory screwed onto a wall, directly onto the outside wall render and not even into a groove cut into the render first. I pointed this out to the owner and was told the conservatory people always do it like that (they said) with no problems of leaking into the new add-on room, down the vertical walls from the outside. The gap was about 3-4mm mostly, top too bottom due to the roughness of the original house render. Of course when it was finished and had cost over £8,000 I think (it wasn't all that big) it leaked the first time it rained. There wasn't even any filler of some kind between the frame and the house render when it was finished. But telling the house owner about the problem when I did (I'm not a builder but my dad was for many years after WW2 and he showed me a lot) didn't make me all that popular when I was sadly proved right the first time it rained. A west facing end of the house and getting the full blast of the wind (up a mountain side) is a recipe for rain getting in somewhere. Fab video by the way and I have taken note of all the different sealers etc. you used on the job. Thanks from an enthusiastic DIY'er.
That’s a grand job you’ve done there Adam. As for that window company I’ll have to say I’m not impressed with them full stop, I can’t believe the 40mm gap they have left and also not making it waterproof. Thank gawd that Matt has shaved his moustache off, cos he was starting to look like a younger version of Alf Garnett 😂. Once again a very enjoyable video 😁👍
Adam, you are very brave putting your hands behind that lead as you don't like spiders!! i am sure there are some big ones lurking in there for the winter!! I am sure that extension cost a lot of money - such a shame they did such a poor job of the flashing, as you say the leadwork is crucial to keeping the roof water tight. Nick
I'm not a builder but perhaps the gap was deliberate to allow room for insulation between the frame and wall? Because any tiny gap there is going to leech heat straight out through the "roof", and it's easier to fill a big gap that a tiny gap. Especially with expanding foam.
this is a fantastic video, very poor glass roof fitters' would love to know who they were,ive never come across conservatory fitters that do not make the roof water tight.im sure this video will help solve a lot of leaks.well done.
You are right about the parapet wall but i would fit a bigger hopper and a 110mm downpipe, the existing hopper and 70mm downpipe is a real weakpoint and will be a cause of subsequent blockages.
totally - the run off from a steep Victorian main roof gutter set can be fast and excessive .. the scaffolding hides the fact, you can never walk along a slopped glass roof to fix major 'issues' with any downpipe that goes tits in the future
35 tubes of silly billy😂 I’d of just bonded the trim to the frame then run a bead between the trim and brick. The Soudal fix all stuff is very very good Adam. They do one that just an adhesive and its super strong
Looks like you did a good job on what was a bodge up from the start. I hope when you guys go back in the new year year that we will see the final job completed. You mentioned in the video that the original builders fell out at their xmas party, hope you guys don't do that when you have yours.👍👍👍👍
Really nice work mate, but that last piece of lead you left on the end from the old builders is killing me lol, for the small size of that section, better to have just ripped it off and be 100% satisfied job done with the new flashing & gap filled the whole length - especially with that nightmare access situation.
Another great video 👍 What an absolute nightmare for the customer but thankfully they got a professional to rectify their problems and hopefully give them a less stressful Christmas. Based on the rest of the builder's work, I would assume the 40mm gap was due to them not building the base brickwork accurately and so the windows had to be fixed out of square
@@Mr_A_Builders I think the 40mm gap is there because the window Co. muppet mis-measured and then fitters had to stand it off the flank wall so it sat properly on the boundary wall - and why would they care? which brings me to the point made elsewhere on here - if there was someone experienced overseeing this project from start to finish they would not have got away with that huge gap! Nick
Just get the parapet wall fiberglassed over the top with a trim on the front .... The glass roof edge is meant to have an angled fixing strip screwed into the wall then the glass panel just clips in .... As well as a sealing strip that acts as a flashing
Window companies don't do the waterproofing for any of their non vertical windows. I just got some similar angled roof light glass fitted and it even stated in large print in the T&C that they would not be responsible for the lead flashing or sealant due to liability issues
What a story, definitely shocked by that, first of all you done a great job i believe and its nice to see. Bet the customer is chuffed. And definitely about the window fitters, all my experiences with glass fitters or solar panelling , they all use their own flashing. Even that being lead ex or whatever, not the best but at least the roofer or builder can add to it if needed. Crazy Good job though will definitely watch more of your videos
Hell of a good job you’ve done young man. Bit weird the window company don’t seal it up. Perhaps there was a crew doing the job that day and couldn’t be bothered to do anymore. Well done.
Seal the wall to the roof all you like for draught-proofing but it’s the flashings that should be properly installed to stop the water even getting to the roof/wall joint. The foam is a fine solution to draught sealing only.(Lead should be taller than one course)
Nice bit of work you've done there and I would have done exactly the same way .. the butt gap is absolute madness from the start lazy measuring I think .
Shouldn’t the builders have put in cavity trays especially with exposed brick below Also can’t see any weep holes with a tray put in above the steel?? Also as a glazier we don’t normally seal the back because most roof systems have vents in the ridges to cut down on condensation but normally have large up stands to stop water from flowing in but that may have been cut off?? Explains why the glaziers may have been unhappy to come back?? Just a thought??
The brick work capping is a no no should have copping stone with a overhang and a drip on the underside of the copping stone both sides of the copping stone.
It would have been a good idea if you covered the Expensive Glass with some thick cardboard to protect it, seeing you dig out the pointing and see it land on the glass!! Wow!!.
Love your content and quality workmanship. Thank you for supporting the Children's Hospital.
Oh wow!!! Thank you, Aaron! That's ace mate!
Same happened to me. Surely legislation required
@kendom33 Really? With a glass roof?
When are you making the donation for the Children’s hospital ?
@SalomonX88 it's not a donation, so to speak, we're spending the donated money on presents for the kids in the hospital this Christmas. The cut off date for donations is the 12th, this Thursday.
I remember coming up in the trades 44 years now and 95% of the craftsman you meet on the job were there to see things done properly, the trend seems to have shifted to pass the buck, do the least you can get away with and try to put the blame on others when things go wrong.
People say I'm slow because I am old but I am fast enough to do the job right and not let the next guy fix my mistakes. I am a builder not a corporate boot licker my work and my word are the things I value most.
Exactly, back then the tradesmen met and sorted the problem together bt now it's either laziness or ego where every tradesmen on a job cares only for his part of the job.
That's my experience of the same time period.
Mistakes can happen but you hold your hands up to it and sort it you are only as good as your word 💯 but see all this passing the blame to often
Tuck the words out my own mouth champagne work for lemonade
Money
hi do you do felt torch on roof in london ? as we need ours done
I was very impressed with the lead work I wasn’t expecting the 2nd higher layer. Above and beyond and then some. Well done, a new subscriber.
Welcome, Paul! Thank you for subscribing, really appreciate it. Hope all is well your end, take care.
Excellent, one of the best building videos I've ever watched
Haha! Get out of it!!!
Been watching the channel now for quite some time really impressed with content. Hope the channel continues to grow and all the best with future Work Merry Christmas.
Salomon that's amazing mate! So so generous! Thank you! That's bumped our total right up!
As a builder we do all the lead flashings for our window/ glass roof suppliers…. They fit we make it watertight.! 😊 .
Great job, most roof systems come with an aluminium flashing. Also the preformed grp are a great alternative. As someone who fitted windows for over 20 years my mantra was you can never over seal on a roof, we always sealed before we leaded. As long as the sealant is flexible and the lead isn’t too long, also correct overlapping and upstands it should last forever. Thanks for the videos, some of the best building work I’ve seen anywhere in 40+ years on tools
Ah thank you, William. That's a really nice thing to say, nice one. Agree with you regarding the over sealing, it's just not possible! Thanks again, take care.
1. I Would really enjoy working for you in my spare time. 2. Love watching you and your team do good quality work. 3. You are a Brummie too, just like me. 4. You explain simply and there is no ego.
What a shambles of a job by the window company! Adam, you did the best with what you had to deal with, without ripping it all out and starting again. Like you said, the parapet wall will be done properly in the New Year but you slowed down or hopefully stopped the water ingress through those bricks. I really hope that the family stays dry from now on. Nice one mate. 👍🏼
Hello Simon! Hope you've had a great week mate. Cheers man, yes it's an absolute shambles but hopefully ok now! Fingers crossed! Thanks once again mate, take care.
That extension is a thermal bridging horror story. Totally unacceptable. If Building Control passed that they should be ashamed.
I was confused how they were creating thermal gaps with that setup
There is no thermal bridging what so ever
Are you saying there are brick slips with insulation underneath? I’m happy to be corrected if it is indeed a job well done.
That was my thought. And airtightness is probably also appalling. It's pretty bad by design overglazed, with maybe 16mm 2G ali-spacer units horizontalish, maybe U=2.5 - depends what the frame is like. And all the bricks are a straight-through continuous thermal bridge (edit: he says at the end that there are brick slips so maybe it's not as bad as it looks). And given the lack of attention to detailing that top joint I'm going to assume there's no airtightness taping or foaming or gooping either. The whole point of building control is to stop people building this sort of crap.
You are a very skilled individual and giving an honest appraisal of the situation to the customer is commendable, long may you be in business fella
And yes it’s a damn lovely kitchen, all that exposed brickwork, right up my street that style
I think you just gave the customer their best Christmas present. I cannot imagine their frustration at having to deal with what should have been an amazing extension that leaks for four years. Amazing job and Merry, early, Christmas
Real question is why did they put up with it leaking for four years? 🤔
Fascinating stuff. I know bugger all about building stuff. This guy explains things clearly for some duffer like me to understand. Cheers mate.
Bless all you, I am across the Pond, I had different issues on lightweight concrete roof, found 😮 hand falls of nails and unmixed concrete mix under some of my tiles. Additionally un flashed edges, now I have to 2-3 sheets of rotted plywood. I am peeved to the max. Thank you for roof fixing schooling. Outstanding work ethic.
Merry Christmas, mate.
Awesome work, this homeowner is very lucky to have found you. Happy New Year!
Really informative video Adam. You put your trust in so-called professionals to complete a job and when it goes pear shaped your having to put it right. That gap along the frame was so much I am not surprised it wasn't water tight (35 tubes of sealant wow!). It was lucky for the owner you were able to put it right for him. Great job.
Thank you mate. Appreciate that. Hope you're well.
I am just glad we done projects like these from the ground up that way you know its going to be correct and as there is no one else to blame you do it right first time.And yes over the years you do learn from small mistakes and own upto them and rectify them accordingly,and you sir done a great recovery from what budget you probably had been given by an already vunerable customer.👍
Use a flexible backing rod in the void. Usually made of foam plastic. Basic filler when jointing both sides of precast concrete panels, before the sealant is applied. 20 metre rolls.
Cheers,Phil.
Nice one, Phil. Thank you.
That's what I would have done, but do they make them fat enough for 40mm gaps?
@@xxwookey yes they do.
Another great video. Considering YT is a side hustle to your actual job you are doing brilliant at it. I can’t not watch your videos because I know I’ll learn something I might need to remember and use in the future. Appreciate your work!
Nice one mate! Thank you!
Closed cell backer rods inserted in the gap before sealing would help a lot. It would provide support and allow the sealant to stretch and compress to accommodate movement caused by fluctuations in temperature. Plus you save a lot on sealant.
Definitely 👍
Surely they’re missing a cavity tray detail on parapet? Even the joint on a coping stone can fail so there will have to be a dpc under a coping which then creates a slip joint, and didn’t notice any weep holes above the door either. Aluminium cap it, nice repair though, great vid!
Agreed, aluminium capping
Agreed aluminium cap or zinc. The problem using DPC under a cope is it can break the bond between the cope and the wall itself, iv seen 150mm wide copes blown down because of DPC.
Dpc shouldn't be anywhere near a coping, in my opinion.
@@benllewellyn1887It's usually put in below the copings. Would've been best to build the parapet higher
If you want the foam to go off quicker, slight mist with water spray bottle , don't soak . Enjoyed your vid 👍
that lead work you did looks stunning
What a grand piece of lead work ,well done chaps😊
Thank you, Nic. Nice one.
Great video, full of great tips. Many thanks👍👍👍
Well done Ad, the difference that will make to the family will be huge!!
After 4 years mate I hope it does mate. Nice one.
That's a great looking job now, good work !
Cheers mate!
Horror story there Adam. You did the best possible i think and sealing the bricks will gain a bit of respite for now. 👍👍👍
Hopefully Doug! Cheers man, hope you're well.
What a mess. Fair play for sorting it for them, must be so much of this mess out there. Think I would have used a polyethylene rope to help fill the gap, mastic that in with wet seal and cap it over. We use it to bond the gaps behind the aco’s with inspection bends & it never lets us down.
Got to honest mate I haven't heard of that stuff but I'll definitely be looking it up. Nice one, mate.
@@Mr_A_Builders Also called backer rod in the USA , it's a rope made of foam basically and is used as a gap filler..btw great work Adam, professional as always
Brilliant video very informative. I’m not a builder but love every minute of your videos. I know it is skilled hard work for you but it is great entertainment for me. Thanks.
Hello Peter. It's always great to hear that non- builders like to watch our stuff, thank you. Take care.
Very interesting one this. Great result and peace of mind finally for the client. Well done with such an awkward job.
Thank you, Pete.
Also a good option I've used in this situation is laying the single ply on the flat roof up the internal all, over the brickwork onto and down the front face terminating on a preformed trim around the perimeter. Gives a lovely finish.
Sir you are a top pro. I hope the young see this and learn. Thanks for sharing of how not to do it and how it should be done.
Haha! Young like me do you mean?! Thank you, mate. Take care.
Such a nice bit work making that waterproof, lovely looking finish. The customer has done having you there 👍
My brother has just had a similar extension done. His wall was capped in lightweight aluminium and looks great.
Another informative and very interesting video Adam. Great job done by you and Mat to get the place watertight in time for Christmas. The customer will be happy with that im sure. Looking forward to sundays episode. Cheers 🍻
Beautiful lead work there. The upstand looks great.
Cheers, mate.
My Guess the builders cocked up on the measurements. When the glass roof was delivered it was pointed out that the size was wrong and was told just to fit it anyway as the cost to remake would come out of the builders pocket. I bet the builders said dont worry about the gap we will sort it. Then turned up with with stetsons and horses and played some country and western music whilst trying to cover the gap. Shows how much faith the customer has in you by asking you to come back in the new year and sort out the flat roof .
Hello Woody. The glass company measured and fitted the roof. The builders to that point had nothing to do with it.
It’s a possibility given that the builders fell out amongst themselves, if the wall was “ wavy “ they would have to pack it off. Wrong specifications on the type of glazing ?
@@Mr_A_Builders If the glass company measured and fitted it, then it's on them imo
It’s pretty common for any company to take their own measurement… it’s rarely ever measured but another party.
You did a good job with installing the lead flashing. That polymer sealant was a great choice to use with the lead flashing. Keep up the good quality of work. Your attention to detail is valuable to you and your customer. Hello from Canada.
What a great video, thoroughly enjoyed it, fantastic job
Ah nice one, Paul. Appreciate that mate. Thank you.
I worked for a small glazing company for 20 years, we installed lots of glass roofs to existing and new builds, BUT we never installed the lead - we did however always make sure the builder was aware and had that sorted and ready for us for when we got to site to install so we could leave it watertight by the time we finished and left site.
Hello Chris. How did that work then? They installed the lead before you got there?
@Mr_A_Builders Hi, yes it was already set in for when we arrived on site, maybe a few times they did it after but I can't remember that happening many times. To my knowledge there was never an issue
@16:20 ‘I’m trying to bodge it’ … you’ve nailed that.
(On a positive note fire retardant foam fill trimmed to the roof profile angle, a plastic cover strip if you like and install the flashing properly!)
Yes, scripe the plastic to the wall. Seal that and then lead flashing
Could have used compriband first to fill most of the gap then top with sealant.
Glad for the client that they got a decent builder in to end the nightmare. 👌👍
Cheers mate, appreciate that.
The biggest issue with the Soudal fix all would have been the working temp range (-40 -> +90) and UV issues I think. But its UV protected by the lead and since this is the UK, the temp ranges would not be an issue. Mechanically it should be absolutely fine especially considering the spanning distance. A nice catch and well thought out solution. Great job 👍🍻
Another interesting and good video showing how it can all go wrong for honest hardworking who trust some professionals...mine field..
That's one way to look at it, Bruno.
My worse nightmare... paying someone to do a job and it turns out a complete cowboy 🤠 yehaaaa
Nice job mate, I like that you staggered the lead strips from the plastic strips underneath 👍
Well noticed! Cheers mate.
Great videos, great guys and quality workmanship. Love the videos 👍
Great video Adam! Nice to see a job being done right - and annoying to see how others bodge them in the first place!
The parapet wall should have caping instead of the headers
BOOM!
Another option for the parapet is aluminium pre-formed sectional capping,but the "brick on end" solution is very likely a "style over substance" affectation on the part of the architect/designer.
@@mikefarley8563 Darren of Build and Repair and Restore threatened to walk off of a job when the customer specified a parapet wall like that. They eventually came to an agreement but he ended up walking anyway a few days later when there was another host of problems.
Or lead cap
Parapet walls defo need covering with lead /zinc or grp.If there's no cavity in any of it paint it with storm dry brick emulsion is what I suggest.Belt and braces .How old is the house ?
You made a nice job of it in the end 👌🏻 the only other thing that may be worth considering is coating the brickwork with Stormdry if it’s 9” solid 👊🏻
Yes mate, Stormdry will be a must when we come to do it in the new year. Cheers man, take care.
Most would have not taken that job, so credit to you Adam for sorting that mess, the lead work is impressive now.
Cheers man.
Great video Adam. With surprise content rather than from the regular menu. Bit of a builders advent calendar. 😜 What’s next.
Yes John, it was a purposeful attempt to shake things up a bit! Glad you enjoyed it mate. Thank you for watching.
I'm.not a builder or roofer. However that was really interesting into the techniques used. Thank you
No worries! Thank you for watching!
loved your comments I spotted the capping only because of my extention, great idea of the lead capping. I trust you to always do the best job. The windows don't pass the smell test, they are not fitted flat to the wall, the brick work should have been adjusted to fit, not the other way around, it's not strictly a roof as its a glass. The window on the other roof is not a roof and you recognise that as a fan Light, same as the leaking glass fan lights. Seems the customer has got stuck between two trades that are happy to argue the toss instead of putting right their poor workmanship and mistakes.
Did the exact same style of build, but slightly larger about 8 years ago down here in London, we had a structural glass company supply and fit all the glass and we did all the weathering afterwards. Not sure if that's standard? But being the builders, and also redoing the entire roof at the time, didn't think anything of it, really, I would prefer my guys do it. These structural glass guys were all young, all they knew was how to fit the glass.
I always make it my business to check and assist if needed all subby work. I've usually asked them how they will do the job before they get their flask out =).
Those 'copings' are shocking, it's something you just don't see. What I do see though, is not wide enough copings, with drips right up against the brick work. Shocking.
Whatever happened to that job with the side access you we're doing? Was that the end of your involvement? Will we get to see the finished article?
Its like a bridge builder making a bridge that is short by a few inches and expecting the road builder to fill the gap. The wall was there , the initial measuring was poor. Your solution is good but horribly expensive for the client. Its a while since I bought a roll of Code Five. Ideally those sections should be lead welded. I have a portapac welding set and a leading torch if you need one, but I am in Scotland. Good job guys.
Long term solution for that is have a proper lead worker join the lead together (not welded) but with what we call clinks (not sure if the same down south we’re in Scotland, I would probably ask for the upstand on the lead together going as high as possible and extend the lead flashing as far onto the window as possible without going onto the glass….. also use patination oil on every part of the lead to ensure no unsightly streaks down the glass from oxidation…… just my input 🤘 extension looks amazing inside & out other than the shoddy workmanship on the flashing
Nice one mate. Thank you for that. Hope you're busy?
@ just signed off on our final re roof of the year due to start 16th December fingers crossed finished for 20th then that’s us until the new year 👍 all the best big fella
@Telferroofing crikey you're cutting that one fine! Fair play mate, hope it all goes to plan. Take care.
@@Mr_A_Builders we are completing next doors roof tomorrow so already know what we’re up against so no stress 😂
The joins are also know as welts
nice work mate.
I would probably StormDry the wall above the flatty and the glass roof. doesn't look like theyve done cavity trays, so StormDry is a must in my opinion.
Great shout mate! Nice one!
I reckon it’s one of two possibilities, 1. the window company wrongly measured the pitch of the window which is attached to the roof. Which is guide of the pitch of the glass roof, combined with wrongly measured transoms. Or 2. Simply just measured the glass roof to side of the house incorrectly. (Probably abit of both tbf)
** Therefore the 40mm gap, an experienced fitter would of clocked it, but was probably told to make it work, but your lead work will definitely sort that out for sure, you guys always do a great job. 👏 👌🍺
You did exactly what I thought should be done. Glad you added the additional lead flashing. My thoughts were also the same for the parapet wall, either fibreglass or lead, lead preferably. Was the glass roof too narrow in the first place?
Ah cheers man. Appreciate that. How's things?
@@Mr_A_BuildersAll good mate thanks. Too cold for me to work out doors this time of year. Planning a combined garden room and storage shed for the new year. Trying to workout which would be better/cheaper, buying of the shelf log cabin or building. My ambitions tend not to match my wallet 😂.
I was wondering if they made the roof light/window to narrow. They should have also fitted a rubber gasket to close and seal the unit. You could definitely see the lead work was all wrong and your solution was bang on.
I love this guy. He keeps it real .Do the best you can with your experiences
That is a great comment! Thank you!
Good video as always Adam,
Poor on site surveying by the glazing company i'd guess - ! As you say the parapit wall is the main source of ingress. The adjacent bricks & mortar where clearly wet. You'll probably find that the glass roof has a small fall, back towards the kitchen, from the parapit wall. The water will always find it's way too the lowest point..... In this case the bowl !!! Might be helpful in the future. All the best Paul 👍
Nice one, Paul. Appreciate that mate!
Actually, having thought about it. The water will most likely be bleeding out the brickwork & running along the top of the rsj & then into the living space. I would say don't forget the drip cills on the capping stone but, I know you won't..... !! All the best. P.
hi adam great video as usual, i have used fix all in the past and found it to be a great product,it has great adhesion and stays crystal clear. looking forward to many more videos.
That glazing profile obviously touches the wall but because of the angle is open at the top where you get your hand in needed a angled fillet with a upstand as it hits the wall fitted by window fitter.
Cheers mate. Anything would have been nice! Hope you're well.
I would have forced lengths of heating pipe insulation into the gap before sealing you can form a taper by taking a sliver out of the slit . What a careless bodge by the installer.As there was no fall on the flashing I would have turned back half an inch of each length and dressed the next one over the top of it or at least doubled the overlap but you have made a superior job to the original bodgey work.
Should have bought you down to sort out the house we bought. Extension built by a very keen DIYer. You would have had a fit!! IE, for starters, the wall at the top of the stairs was held in place by..................... expanding foam! That was the least of the issues. Love you ethic, good job.
Oh man! Sorry to hear that, Colin. Hope it's all sorted now?
Waterproofing is its own specialty trade in California. The same with architectural details and installation who hire consultants to spec and inspect the system. There are companies who test installations for water intrusion and leaking panels. They will do random sections of glass curtain walls before signing off as waterproof.
Nice one Paul! How is sunny California? Looking forward to the change of the guard in the new year?
I used liquid rubber on my front and back flat rooves and they're fantastic. Use enough and you can seal up the Channel Tunnel.
Yes mate it is supposed to be good stuff, we shall see! Thank you for watching.
Those brick parapet walls are always a nightmare here in the States. As a 30-year pointer, we deal with these all the time. A thorough soaking with 100% silane-based sealer after repointing would definitely do it justice, especially if the client doesn't like the look of capping over the rowlock.
Fill gap. Then use 50mm or 70mm capping glued and fitted whilst filler mastic is still wet as this will help,stick it down. Make sure filler is standing proud and compresses down whilst putting cappit in place. Try to slope capital to simular angle of roof. Allow it rpto harden if possible so when lead is dressed down it doesn't form a gutter for water to gather as it has done in past. If foam had been used to fill in first place and cappit fitted and sealed. Lead dressed down. Maybe seal it down on bed of clear mastic to prevent capillary action under the lead. As an double glazing service engineer. Fixed a few of these fits. Just maybe seal brickwork with silacone waterproofer and paint on above flashing.
I have seen a plastic frame conservatory screwed onto a wall, directly onto the outside wall render and not even into a groove cut into the render first. I pointed this out to the owner and was told the conservatory people always do it like that (they said) with no problems of leaking into the new add-on room, down the vertical walls from the outside.
The gap was about 3-4mm mostly, top too bottom due to the roughness of the original house render. Of course when it was finished and had cost over £8,000 I think (it wasn't all that big) it leaked the first time it rained. There wasn't even any filler of some kind between the frame and the house render when it was finished.
But telling the house owner about the problem when I did (I'm not a builder but my dad was for many years after WW2 and he showed me a lot) didn't make me all that popular when I was sadly proved right the first time it rained. A west facing end of the house and getting the full blast of the wind (up a mountain side) is a recipe for rain getting in somewhere.
Fab video by the way and I have taken note of all the different sealers etc. you used on the job. Thanks from an enthusiastic DIY'er.
Got to be draughty and leaking heat with that hand-width gap between the wall and roof window!
Mate it must have been! Hopefully it's better now!
Very well done mate you a true perfectionist I'm in the trade myself I would of done exactly same you smashed it quality work done right
Thank you, Leo. Appreciate that mate!
Nice job. But personally i would have replaced the first 2m of lead and installed the same system you done for the rest of it. But well done.
Yes mate that was playing on my mind too, so I went back the week after and did just that! Cheers Jabba, hope you're well.
What a nightmare for the customer. RUclips a blessing in times and situations like this. Gd man.
That’s a grand job you’ve done there Adam. As for that window company I’ll have to say I’m not impressed with them full stop, I can’t believe the 40mm gap they have left and also not making it waterproof. Thank gawd that Matt has shaved his moustache off, cos he was starting to look like a younger version of Alf Garnett 😂. Once again a very enjoyable video 😁👍
Haha! I can confirm that he and Alf Garnet have totally different attitudes to life and the world! Haha! Cheers man.
Adam, you are very brave putting your hands behind that lead as you don't like spiders!! i am sure there are some big ones lurking in there for the winter!! I am sure that extension cost a lot of money - such a shame they did such a poor job of the flashing, as you say the leadwork is crucial to keeping the roof water tight. Nick
I honestly never thought of that! Oh man that turns my stomach!
I'm not a builder but perhaps the gap was deliberate to allow room for insulation between the frame and wall? Because any tiny gap there is going to leech heat straight out through the "roof", and it's easier to fill a big gap that a tiny gap. Especially with expanding foam.
this is a fantastic video, very poor glass roof fitters' would love to know who they were,ive never come across conservatory fitters that do not make the roof water tight.im sure this video will help solve a lot of leaks.well done.
Thank you.
You are right about the parapet wall but i would fit a bigger hopper and a 110mm downpipe, the existing hopper and 70mm downpipe is a real weakpoint and will be a cause of subsequent blockages.
totally - the run off from a steep Victorian main roof gutter set can be fast and excessive .. the scaffolding hides the fact, you can never walk along a slopped glass roof to fix major 'issues' with any downpipe that goes tits in the future
35 tubes of silly billy😂
I’d of just bonded the trim to the frame then run a bead between the trim and brick.
The Soudal fix all stuff is very very good Adam.
They do one that just an adhesive and its super strong
Same Here
Looks like you did a good job on what was a bodge up from the start. I hope when you guys go back in the new year year that we will see the final job completed. You mentioned in the video that the original builders fell out at their xmas party, hope you guys don't do that when you have yours.👍👍👍👍
Really nice work mate, but that last piece of lead you left on the end from the old builders is killing me lol, for the small size of that section, better to have just ripped it off and be 100% satisfied job done with the new flashing & gap filled the whole length - especially with that nightmare access situation.
Another great video 👍 What an absolute nightmare for the customer but thankfully they got a professional to rectify their problems and hopefully give them a less stressful Christmas. Based on the rest of the builder's work, I would assume the 40mm gap was due to them not building the base brickwork accurately and so the windows had to be fixed out of square
Thank you, Alan. Either way mate the window company would have measured off of what was there, so it's totally their fault in my opinion.
@@Mr_A_Builders I think the 40mm gap is there because the window Co. muppet mis-measured and then fitters had to stand it off the flank wall so it sat properly on the boundary wall - and why would they care? which brings me to the point made elsewhere on here - if there was someone experienced overseeing this project from start to finish they would not have got away with that huge gap! Nick
Just get the parapet wall fiberglassed over the top with a trim on the front .... The glass roof edge is meant to have an angled fixing strip screwed into the wall then the glass panel just clips in .... As well as a sealing strip that acts as a flashing
I know one thing: I would assume the roof is fixed with number 8 screws and red plugs so wouldnt be putting my weight on it.
Window companies don't do the waterproofing for any of their non vertical windows. I just got some similar angled roof light glass fitted and it even stated in large print in the T&C that they would not be responsible for the lead flashing or sealant due to liability issues
What a story, definitely shocked by that, first of all you done a great job i believe and its nice to see. Bet the customer is chuffed.
And definitely about the window fitters, all my experiences with glass fitters or solar panelling , they all use their own flashing. Even that being lead ex or whatever, not the best but at least the roofer or builder can add to it if needed. Crazy
Good job though will definitely watch more of your videos
Excellent work 😊 super stuff to correct a load of bollocks
Hell of a good job you’ve done young man. Bit weird the window company don’t seal it up. Perhaps there was a crew doing the job that day and couldn’t be bothered to do anymore. Well done.
Seal the wall to the roof all you like for draught-proofing but it’s the flashings that should be properly installed to stop the water even getting to the roof/wall joint. The foam is a fine solution to draught sealing only.(Lead should be taller than one course)
Nice bit of work you've done there and I would have done exactly the same way .. the butt gap is absolute madness from the start lazy measuring I think .
Thank you, Paul. Happy New Year to you.
Shouldn’t the builders have put in cavity trays especially with exposed brick below
Also can’t see any weep holes with a tray put in above the steel??
Also as a glazier we don’t normally seal the back because most roof systems have vents in the ridges to cut down on condensation but normally have large up stands to stop water from flowing in but that may have been cut off?? Explains why the glaziers may have been unhappy to come back??
Just a thought??
That's an old house. No cavity, solid wall.
@@Cdr_Mansfield_CummingI would put a membrane on wall above window just to be sure.
The brick work capping is a no no should have copping stone with a overhang and a drip on the underside of the copping stone both sides of the copping stone.
your right cheaper than lead and will do the job .
dont no about the liquid rubber can it breath , storm dry better
The rubberised/pond paint is very very watertight used it on the kid's garden aquarium....
It would have been a good idea if you covered the Expensive Glass with some thick cardboard to protect it, seeing you dig out the pointing and see it land on the glass!! Wow!!.
I really wouldn't worry about it mate.
It's a lovely extension except for that nonsense. I love what you did with the lead.
It is beautiful, Andy. Cheers mate.
Wow, what a beautiful kitchen 😍😍😍