You are a legend. You saved me when I was stranded in Langenberg Germany. Thanks to you I am able to continue drinking baco and beer for the foreseeable future. I can go back to my hometown Purra and see my friends and family.
Another awesome video by Bryan and co. When/if the coils are stuck in place, a short blast of compressed air from a small nozzle directed at/under their top flange will help pop them loose. I’d probably already have the air hose out and available when working on a dusty engine. Out of habit, I clean most things to be addressed and their surrounding area off before opening them up. Bow out the well before removing plugs. I found a head moth carcass in mine from Mexico. You can then apply a very light swipe and wipe of di-electric grease for ease of removal at a later date, to all contact surfaces of the coil flange and boot, where it will meet the tube and valve cover, and where it clips to the plug
Another helpful video, Bryan! Thanks again for taking the time and being so thorough in what you show. Great camera work and lighting, as always. My main takeaway was unfastening those damned clips! I hate them!!! I used your review for 70k mile Spider that had never had a plug change; easier than on my 500 Abarth, maybe easiest plug change ever. Thanks again!
Actually unscrewing the back right engine cover stud and sticking three washers stacked up and screwing it back in, rases the cover it just enough so that it's not touching the top of the coils and is still low enough for the Hood to come back down without touching it. 😎
Typically I run the plug down with the extension by hand like a screwdriver rather than ratcheting it. I only attach the ratchet for the final 1/4 turn or so. That way cross threading is avoided.
Hi! Thanks for this video. I have just received an very important informations from Brisk. Brisk recommended the spurk plugs: P38 (lifetime 100.000 km). It is better than the Silver Racing spurk plug (BR10YS) for the Fiat / Abarth 124 Spider.
Ive heard about people using flat washers to elevate the engine cover enough to clear these coils. Have you begun doing this since the video was posted?
Should have watched this before replacing the plugs and coils on my 500 Abarth, yesterday. I totally pushed the yellow tabs in, instead of out - think they are all cracked. Oops.
Nice vid, thx. I have a Stage 1 tune by tork and a V2 intake (around 190-200hp), should I really upgrade or is it for Stage 2+ / stuffed turbo etc., higher level modifications?
@@NGENCustomsandPerformance thanks I looked I can’t find it . They must not sell it anymore, but thank you. Your videos are a great help with both my abarth. Thank you !
On a 2014 500l Lounge stage 1 tune with the dual clutch---when the car revs up but loses throttle like you have no control and it stays high rpm for a bit is that the coil or spark plug failure. Also there is mild hesitation. Only 11455 on the plugs and coils...
Impulse Racing it is going to depend on the brand of plug and whether or not the car is tuned. From the factory, the original plugs (NGK) are gapped at .026. For the Brisk plugs, it is recommended to have them gapped at .024 if not tuned and .022 if you are tuned. If you install replacement NGK plugs, gap should be at .024.
My stock 2013 abarth experiences an odd misfire around 4000rpm full throttle( like hits a rev limiter almost and then exhaust will pop a couple times) that ks for any responses
You are a legend. You saved me when I was stranded in Langenberg Germany. Thanks to you I am able to continue drinking baco and beer for the foreseeable future. I can go back to my hometown Purra and see my friends and family.
Wow thanks! Glad I could help you with your issue
Another awesome video by Bryan and co.
When/if the coils are stuck in place, a short blast of compressed air from a small nozzle directed at/under their top flange will help pop them loose. I’d probably already have the air hose out and available when working on a dusty engine. Out of habit, I clean most things to be addressed and their surrounding area off before opening them up. Bow out the well before removing plugs. I found a head moth carcass in mine from Mexico. You can then apply a very light swipe and wipe of di-electric grease for ease of removal at a later date, to all contact surfaces of the coil flange and boot, where it will meet the tube and valve cover, and where it clips to the plug
Awe Bart great tip!
Another helpful video, Bryan! Thanks again for taking the time and being so thorough in what you show. Great camera work and lighting, as always. My main takeaway was unfastening those damned clips! I hate them!!! I used your review for 70k mile Spider that had never had a plug change; easier than on my 500 Abarth, maybe easiest plug change ever. Thanks again!
Actually unscrewing the back right engine cover stud and sticking three washers stacked up and screwing it back in, rases the cover it just enough so that it's not touching the top of the coils and is still low enough for the Hood to come back down without touching it. 😎
Good advice!
Which ignition coil would you recommend for the giulietta 1.4 multiair stage 1?
Typically I run the plug down with the extension by hand like a screwdriver rather than ratcheting it. I only attach the ratchet for the final 1/4 turn or so. That way cross threading is avoided.
I was going to say. Im so scared to cross thread it. Always do it with hand first tighten it down.
Hi! Thanks for this video. I have just received an very important informations from Brisk. Brisk recommended the spurk plugs: P38 (lifetime 100.000 km). It is better than the Silver Racing spurk plug (BR10YS) for the Fiat / Abarth 124 Spider.
Ive heard about people using flat washers to elevate the engine cover enough to clear these coils. Have you begun doing this since the video was posted?
Should have watched this before replacing the plugs and coils on my 500 Abarth, yesterday. I totally pushed the yellow tabs in, instead of out - think they are all cracked. Oops.
Should you use a torque wrench set at 18 lbs for plug installation ?
Nice vid, thx.
I have a Stage 1 tune by tork and a V2 intake (around 190-200hp), should I really upgrade or is it for Stage 2+ / stuffed turbo etc., higher level modifications?
Yes I would recommend upgrading the coils and plugs for sure
I have a GP 1.4 T-Jet but I can't for the life of me get the connector off. I loosened the yellow clips just like in the video but it barely moves.
Are the coils ok to use on both mutli air and t jet engines?
I don’t know if it will work on the t-jet since we don’t have them here in the states
@@NGENCustomsandPerformance thanks for the reply and for the information you put out
Do you need to use dielectric grease on the Bosch coils?
Emmett Lam no you do not
Hi would those be compatible with a giulietta 1.4 multiair turbocharger
I would imagine they would be but we don’t have this model in the states. We have no way of confirming
Where did you get the scorpion light ?
Ms-racing
@@NGENCustomsandPerformance thanks I looked I can’t find it . They must not sell it anymore, but thank you. Your videos are a great help with both my abarth. Thank you !
What about a non upgraded engine...yet, or do I need to wait until it is?
They are still a good upgrade for a stock engine but you will not see/feel as much of a benefit
Thank you...I bought an 2013 Abarth and I’ve been watching all of your videos and I love them!!!
You should install the Dodge Dart 1.4 turbo heat shield on that too
On a 2014 500l Lounge stage 1 tune with the dual clutch---when the car revs up but loses throttle like you have no control and it stays high rpm for a bit is that the coil or spark plug failure. Also there is mild hesitation. Only 11455 on the plugs and coils...
Did you ever figure out what it was?
Would this c4 be good for muy none turbo??
These are made for the turbo engine
Sweet Vid!
Thank you!
Are replacement yellow tabs available? After many years i have one left.
Paul Rogerson unfortunately no
Paul...the yellow locking tabs are really not required, mine have been off for a few years now.
I installed these on my ‘15 500 sport and it blew the Powertrain fuse f17. Are these not usable on this?
These do not work on the non-turbos
NGEN Customs and Performance ok thank you
Thank you!
What is the plug gap spec?
Impulse Racing it is going to depend on the brand of plug and whether or not the car is tuned. From the factory, the original plugs (NGK) are gapped at .026. For the Brisk plugs, it is recommended to have them gapped at .024 if not tuned and .022 if you are tuned. If you install replacement NGK plugs, gap should be at .024.
@@NGENCustomsandPerformance I will add in, the tuners at Eurocompulsion will also tell you to gap the original NGKs at .024 if you are tuned.
My stock 2013 abarth experiences an odd misfire around 4000rpm full throttle( like hits a rev limiter almost and then exhaust will pop a couple times) that ks for any responses
Just ordered these coils in hopes of fixing the same problem.
So it won't work with just a 1.4 NA Fiat Sport 5 spd? If I were to do this what would happen? Would I get any gain in HP and or torque?
The process is the same but it takes different coils and plugs. It will not run right with these
These upgrades aren’t for fiat pop 😔😔
Sorry Gerry, these are not for the pop but you can follow the same procedure when replacing your spark plugs.
Thanks 😊
Вам бы русский выучить,цены бы не было!