Direct Video Game Capture & 4K Scaling
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
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Awesome, awesome video. I'm going to be coming back to this so much in the future. Thanks for putting this together for your fellow RUclipsrs :)
Very well done, Bob. You might've convinced me to use this method instead of scalers for capture... other than needing to manually fine-tune per game. But definitely keeping this in my tool belt and sharing around.
Also kudos for recommending keeping everything uncompressed at each step. if you start compressing during intermediate steps, your final file will be vomit.
Thank you! Let me know if you'd like prototypes of new designs...I have a few kicking around you might have fun checking out.
Absolutely! I'll hit you up on Twitter.
Handbrake is cropping because Automatic is part of the preset you applied. Set Anamorphic to Strict, keep modulus at 2, and set your crop to Custom and all 0. Next, go to the Video tab and set Framerate to Constant (variable framerate can cause judder and all sorts of crap on playback), and set whatever else you may want (I find RF21 too low usually, but for the fewer colors we are talking about and uploading to RUclips, it's probably overkill). When you are satisfied, save these settings as your own preset, ready to be applied with a single click next time. 👍
Great video! I did some testing today to see if I could get some similar results by incorporating the OSSC into your post-recording, integer scale method and I found some very useful results.
If you have an OSSC you don't necessarily need a Datapath capture card if you're willing to tune in optimal timings for your consoles on the OSSC. You'll just need a capture card that can accept the 480p OSSC signal for the bare minimum to work. However, it is worth noting that the datapath is nice for things similar to what Bob does because it can record RGB in its native colorspace without conversion,. What I did was take my OSSC, dial in optimal timings, set the output to 480p, and recorded that image at 640x480 with a normal capture card. I then did the process Bob shows in the video using VirtualDub and was able to get very nice results from it.
Here's a quick test video I threw together with the results: ruclips.net/video/2RVMGAORn4Q/видео.html
God damn your video captture makes my heart explode. Looks so good.
Excellent video! It is exactly what I needed to start capturing games on my own. This shall be a reference video for my future projects.
what you are showing here is A to Z and helpful this is really near perfection , you promised to do more videos on CRT modding to RGB in depth do it in all case scenarios
you have compressed months of error and trials into 38 minutes very neat! thanks
i have never seen retro game cuptures this sharp good job
Great video packed with information! A couple of tips that could be added: in addition to the r3 wiki, the JunkerHQ wiki optimal timings page for the OSSC has a list of settings for many consoles, h.active and h.samplerate parameters are interesting here. Also, the software VCS is a great alternative to the VisionRGB software.
Another amazing video, Bob. Keep up the good work!
Lots of great information in there I didn't know about! Funny enough, a friend sent me an E1S a couple months ago and I finally got around to installing it on the night you posted this video. I've already got a FM and OSSC paired with an Elgato and will likely continue using those for ease of use, but flexibility is important to me and I want to open up as many streaming and recording options as possible. Case in point, I have a few retro PC builds that I have been struggling to capture for ages. No consumer capture card I could find handles the 320x200, 70hz signal that MS-DOS games require. The E1S however doesn't even bat an eye at it and grabs it perfectly. It takes much higher oddball resolutions as well and if I'm capturing from a Windows '95 box, I can switch from the Windows desktop (at say, 1024x768) to DOS programs (at 320x200/640x400) without a hitch. From what I can tell this seems like the perfect classic PC capture solution.
I've been trying to capture VGA from older computers for such a long time, but I recently discovered these Datapath cards and I'm super impressed at how well they can handle it. Older computer games jump back and forth between all kinds of resolutions and this Datapath card will lock on to any resolution without a problem. I've never seen a card that can do this before, they are truly awesome.
This was incredible. Great work.
Your Amarec is recording with VFR you should force CFR so instead of the framerate changing when the source drops a frame, you would maintain the framerate with a duplicate frames.
Edit: When exporting with handbrake or any other front end for x264 you should crop the black pillar box/letter box bars because otherwise you are wasting bitrate on encoding part of the image where there is no useful information, instead of using all the bitrate for the visual information present. When you crop like this and upload to youtube, it will still be detected as 4k but at 4:3 and play back in the 4:3 player and if you full screen it, the black bars will "reappear" as it centers the 4:3 image for a 16:9 display. TL:DR you are wasting resources encoding usless information (black bars) and lowering the bitrate for the useful information (game image)
Edit again: I forgot to say thanks for the great video so thanks :)
Very informative and high quality captures nice job!
Thanks for this awesome video. Looks like the retro gaming crowd has really pushed the world of options forward for video game capture. Wish the same could be said for video capture of analog video from other devices like S-Video or composite from older devices like VHS players or 8mm camcorders as the world of color space and luma, chroma shift, etc is all too complicated as well. Going to see if I can apply some of these practices for my home video VHS and 8mm captures to get good quality as well.
What an absolute masterclass. Thank you Bob! Excellent video as usual. Question, is there a SCART2VGA option in the market yet? Also, any updates for the 3D printed case for the SCART2DVI ?
Your channel keeps getting better and better.
Wow! Great work! Thanx a lot!
33:03 - Guile Theme goes with everything!
Sounds like your dad was a pretty cool guy :)
Great video! One thing I'll say, though, is that I tend to be able to scale videos in VirtualDub faster when using fewer resize filters. Instead of integer scaling at nearest neighbor, then correcting the aspect ratio with Lanczos, then resizing to the target resolution, this is what I do:
The first resize filter will be a nearest neighbor scale that corrects the aspect ratio, but is still a perfect integer scale. So, for example, SNES at 4:3 has pixels that are 7 wide and 6 tall, so simply plugging those factors into the "Relative (%)" boxes in VirtualDub will make the process nice and easy. THEN, I scale it down to the target resolution. I tried it on a few examples and got notably faster rendering times.
Of course, there's a possibility that this is completely wrong since it doesn't take overscan into account, but I admit I'm a little fuzzy on that subject myself. If anyone wants to correct me on that, feel free.
I did quite a bit of capture back in the turn of century. We was talking on twitter 240. I captured 480i lossless huffyuv codec then used avisynth to decimate every other field leaving in 320x240p. I did not actually capture 240p this method I decimated down in post editing. Lossless captures stored me some very nice results.
Ahhh, okay. It's sometimes hard to explain stuff with Twitter limitations. Makes sense!
This is epic
I could use one of those sync strippers with VGA instead of SCART.
Regarding the Epiphan cards. The DVI2PCIe card does support pixel perfect 240p unlike the USB versions (the C64 is 240p video!) and can handle the various OSSC scaling modes with ease. The software is just as buggy as the Datapath though (do these companies hire the same crack programmers or something?). You can't directly capture 256 or 320 pixel wide video with it though, you need to double the input sampling since either the card driver or the ADC itself can't capture that low (ex: you have to capture SNES footage at 512x240 vs. 256x240). Also important that you disable all the built in capture resolution profiles and create a custom one as the DVI2PCIe loves to default to the 480i one! If the Datapath cards have a published capture API, you could easily create an alignment tool specific to that card. (maybe send Michael a Datapath card to create one?)
Regarding phase adjustment, getting a perfect noise free image also depends on the capture device. I can dial in my Apple IIgs in SHR 640x200 mode no problem directly connected to the DVI2PCIe, but I can't find a noise free setting on the OSSC.
You can get the SCART2DVI here: insurrectionindustries.com/scart2dvi/
Also, I tried doubling the input sampling, but it didn't work. Might have to triple it, but that's beyond the scope of this project.
My bad great video brother.
Goldwave is the G.O.A.T.
How would Ste's scaling alrogithm apply to resolutions on consoles like Dreamcast and PS2?
You would use that goofy formula, along with oscilloscope timing data and knowledge of the in-game resolution. For example, if you consider a common scenario of a 4:3, 640x480, Dreamcast game which has a active video width of 47.407us, you end up with 89.69%. If it's agreed upon that the images in the above video are "correct", then there's an contradiction here with Bob's previous Dreamcast video where he proposes that the image which is not adjusted by 89.69% is the "correct" one. The trick here is there is a subjective meaning to what is considered "correct". It's a little confusing, but it's something we can try to discuss on the next The Retro Roundtable podcast, if there's interest.
@@stekulov3529 Please do discuss this!
@@stekulov3529 I am very interested in this!
Ste Kulov Thanks for the reply Ste. It’s unfortunate that I don’t have an oscilloscope but I guess that’s another reason why HDMI mods are a good idea for later Gen consoles.
@@stekulov3529 That would require you to actually do another retro roundtable podcast!
If you get a newer nvidia gpu (10 series and up I believe) it can do transcoding of the video using h.265 and it goes way quicker (thus saving time) because it uses the cpu and gpu for transcoding instead of just the cpu. It refers to it as nvenc if you want to do research on it.
Great video. As an alternative to Vision I'd recommend VCS: github.com/leikareipa/vcs this is an open source alternative to Vision and it supports profiles so once you got something dialed in you just load the profile for that thing.
This is a pretty interesting solution for recording old games, though I'm not currently interested in spending several hundred (more) dollars on capture gear for my consoles right now. I've actually been trying to get some footage from a vintage PC of mine, so I picked up an Extron RGB 300a which has some of these settings you mentioned like phase, etc. I might be able to use some of that info to improve the quality of what I'm seeing now that I understand what they are a little better.
FANTASTIC! Do you have any comparison footage/screenshots of the simpler rigs you mentioned as opposed to the more complex Datapath Vision setup? I'd love to see how they stack up to each other.
I plan on working on the "basic capture" video soon. I really wanted that to come out right after this one, but I just didn't have time :( ASAP, I promise!
@@RetroRGB No worries, it's appreciated! I was just wondering if I use something simple like a RetroTink that has fewer compatibility issues than OSSC, is something as fancy as a StarTech overkill (since I'd need an upscaler and wouldn't be using the analogue inputs), so long as the card has USB3.0 to mitigate latency?
Nevermind, just rewatched and got my answer 2:05: with RetroTink, "all you need is a capture card that accepts 480p @ 60fps"
Have you tried using a Behringer UCA222 usb audio device? I have had exceptional results with them, in both capturing and djing.
No, but those are affordable! I'll add it to the list...
Bob thanks I needed a laugh. Save = cancel and no. Best thing I've heard all day!!! :D
I thought Dark-Aries was kidding when he taught me that. Seriously thought he was just playfully trolling. WTF
@@RetroRGB As a GUI designer, I just cannot imagine the decision making process that led to this level 100 fuckery.
Honestly it's off the scale, we're gonna need a bigger boat!
Great Video! Would love to see a special video just for streaming settings! Maybe also on how to improve quality with a more classic upscaler chain.
I'm working on that now actually...along with a few other videos. It should be out this month.
@@RetroRGB That is GREAT! Thank you, really looking forward to it!
Blender 3D have a Video Editor that Upscale the Footage in Nearest Neighbor, but only when you render it in Video Sequence mode, Render it Regularly Will Blur the image instead.
It would be super helpful to see some information on this but using a Magewell card. I have one (Pro Capture HDMI) and it's great. It can capture analog sources directly, audio, use custom resolutions and framerates, and even resolution switching is instant, but all of the information about capturing consoles takes Datapath cards into account instead. I'm not sure what the Datapath cards are doing, but Magewell's capture a big portion of the overscan area, so the settings will differ greatly no doubt (I capture analog directly since I'm trying to avoid as much converter/upscaler/etc. mess as possible).
Currently I have 358x240 using the Genesis to test, and cropping the left overscan area by 1 pixel, it still doesn't look quite right, but very close. It would be great to see some more information using Magewell's cards. Would it even be possible to capture a 1:1 pixel area?
I ran into the same sort of audio capture noise problems via USB that you did. I have three USB audio interfaces (Avid Mbox 3 Mini, Avid Fast Track Duo, and M-Audio M-Track Quad). Of the three, the M-Audio was the best, but I abandoned my quest for Genesis audio comparisons because getting clean output was difficult, to say the least. I didn't expect issues with the Mbox 3 Mini, because in its heyday Avid was pushing it as a high-end device. And as you mention, you don't really hear it capturing instrument-level signals or mic-level audio.
Nice
I've scoured everywhere I could before resorting to asking this question here, but I'm totally lost on this issue. At first, my Datapath E1 card was working great, but suddenly I've been absolutely struggling with this new issue that popped up out of nowhere where now if I power cycle the console with a reset, the horizontal size changes to some other unknown value (the slider still says 341 for my NES/SNES game I'm trying to record).
To "fix" it, I have to move the slider off of 341, then back to 341 again, but...this is a critical problem for me, because I do speedruns, and I can't get a clean recording that starts from a reset without it being blurry (plus I would have to spend extra time on EVERY reset adjusting the value back, which is a tremendous disadvantage). I know that this is something that can be solved, because other speedrunners seem to never deal with this. Would you happen to have any insight for a solution for this issue?
I'd suggest asking this in the R3 discord, as many speedrunners contribute there: r3.fyi/
@@RetroRGB Thank you for this suggestion! Gonna leave this here for anyone else looking for the solution to this issue:
Do not use the latest Vision driver! Use version 7.11.2! With this driver, the resetting issue is totally gone.
The datapath cards arent cheap are they. I think the Startech cards are also a valid alternative especially for people in the UK (PEXHDCAP2)
Around $135 used on eBay. Startech cards don't capture in the full RGB colospace, so no, not valid if you're going for perfect.
A noisy USB *bus* won't introduce noise into an audio recording except by making usb transactions impossible in the extreme case. The usb data bus transmits binary data in a differential pair, a noisy zero is still a zero and a noisy one is still a one, within a wide margin.
However, a poorly designed usb-powered device may leak noise from the USB *power* line. A powered hub can take care of this (or just split usb cable with data lines from the pc and power lines from clean 5V, ofc). The better usb audio interfaces have their own power supplies, which are designed to produce a clean rail. There are many professional quality audio recordings made using usb interfaces these days, as they basically replaced the firewire boxes of old, and are usually preferred as they keep the analog lines out of the pc case, which is a mess of high-frequency em content.
Saying that the prescence of a 9 MHz LPF on a 480p signa, which may have a pixel clock of 25 MHz or so, is 'not going to help' conveys the wrong idea. It's definitely not "like the filter wasn't there for 480p signals", as you said in another video. Quite the contrary. The effect of a video LPF with a cutoff frequency that is too aggressive (lower than the bandwidth of the source) is that it will significantly soften the picture horizontally, exactly like the it happens with the component video output of a Wii. The time-domain reason for this is that the slew rate of the signal is reduced with the introduction of a LPF, in case you want to look at it like that.
A 100 MHz LPF would be "like it wasn't there" for retro video signals. A 1 MHz LPF would be **extremely** evident, much more so than plugging a console through composite. High frequencies produce detail, low frequencies produce coarse variations.
If you ditch the IC with the integrated filter, you can use a quad or triple op-amp IC for video like the ones by analog devices, set the gain with resistors, and the LPF with caps. This would probably take reading a chapter on op-amps (or two, depending on your background), but it's perfectly doable. Basically it's just a video buffer with a high frequency cutoff. Switchable cutoff frequencies for several opamps sounds like a hassle, or just plainly more trouble than it's worth, considering there are other solutions that can be used instead.
A better way to do it would be to oversample the *acquisition* phase, with no hardware LPF (or just single non-configurable first order filter at a high enough frequency to not affect the fastest of your signals to prevent oscillation, ringing, etc), and use the redundant information from the oversampling to get your clean pixels.
That is, if your signal is 384x224, configure the acquisition card at 3840x224, so that each pixel is sampled ~10 times (the more the better, as far as the acquisition card and storage devices allow). From that raw data, a horizontal downscale to 384x224 would be simple and would yield good results, but certainly the best solution for that would be a purpose-built filter that dropped samples in pixel transitions and computed the 'per-pixel' averages taking the pixel clock boundaries into account.
This would produce a clean 384x224 picture with no unnecessary filtering and, additionally, would elimininate the 'phase issue' which you have (which could even be pixel clock drift). Another benefit is that the segments of the video with different resolutions (say the 320 to 256 changes in width of the megadrive) can be dealt with much more easily. From that clean video you could produce your 4k scaled versions as you prefer, but I would add that the Lanczos' (mind the 'z') filter isn't really the most adequate for pixel art. A purpose-coded implementation would, again, work better; for example, you could scale using nearest-neighbour by to 10x or 20x original size, then downscale that to the target resolution using a method that doesn't ring (and introduce the borders or crop, as needed).
This is all very possible to code in a short amount of time, it could even be scripted in python or something (but would probably benefit from a fast implementation in C or the like).
A good test for this a setup would be to produce a small program that would output test signals from the PC VGA, capture them with the encoder, and compare the desired pixel values with the captured values. A console running the test suite could also be used for this, which would allow to characterize the console's DACs. More than likely, some consoles are not quite linear in their output, but only monotonic, as the tolerances on the internal resistor networks can't be guaranteed to a very high accuracy. This would, in turn, produce a 'calibrated' capture.
I'm back here after watching FirebrandX's "Finding Proper 4:3 Correction for Vintage Video Games" video. You mentioned for 256 sources, scale by 112.75%" horizontally, but his calculation for horizontal scaling is multiplying the horizontal resolution by 8/7 and round the number to the closest even pixel. So who's right?
My very strong opinion: If you’re making the effort for a proper aspect ratio, you’ve already won. FBX is probably right, but even he’d agree: Doing it how I have it listed is faaaaar better then getting it totally wrong like most RUclipsrs do :)
Just a thought: rename this video to include the phrase game capture? Odd that the title doesn’t mention gaming at all.
Good idea! Done...
What I'm looking for is a device would need a VGA D-Sub HD15 connector and an Ethernet port. You would connect it to any computer with a normal VGA/HD-15 connector. The interface would need to implement the DDC pins 9, 12 & 15 and report itself as a generic monitor, etc. The PC would think it's just any old standard monitor. However, it would work like an IP-camera, with a web interface and a few RTSP stream profiles, and perhaps also with ONVIF support.
A more advanced version would also have a header to be able to connect to the power-led and power-sw pins on a computer motherboard (opto-isolated input and output). And audio capture header to connect to the motherboard's pc-speaker and sb-audio out. And PS/2 keyboard and mouse support.
Does such a device exist?
I would like that as well.
The capture window trick is interesting for OBS. But I wonder if it wil refresh at the pc's monitor refresh rate or at the window rate. It is important for capturing 50hz sources on a 60hz+ monitor.
What's the latency for all of this processing? Would be interesting to adapt the processing to enable pixel perfect games to be played on new televisions/monitors.
Incidentally, I wonder if this method could be used to transfer VHS to digital files. Of course the quality would still be bad, but it would prevent any further degradation of quality in the copying/dubbing process.
I think there's at least one frame of lag, but probably more like two or three. SOME people can play their games through the capture window, but it's too much lag for me.
...and yes, you can capture VHS this way, but since it's composite or S-Video, you'll need different equipment. The RetroTINK2x booted in video mode is a good way to capture VHS.
After finally getting a Datapath Vision, ordering a full-profile PCIe mold for the card, a Voultair "Double Penetration" SCART to DVI-I device, and a DVI-to-DVI adapter, I'm having an impossible time getting any sort of good phase setting for my RGB-modded SNES Jr. Just lots of pixel flickering no matter the value. Would love to know what everyone's secret is to get the right settings for this thing, because it's feeling like a huge hurdle and waste of time and money for me, so far. :/
scart to dvi isnt available anymore from insurrection, what would you recommend? or is this method just not possible without it?
You have any guitar playing videos? You keep teasing me with your V and bass! 😉
Only from old bands. I haven't completely given up hope that I have one more album/tour in me...
RetroRGB - You should post at least a play-thru of a song or two from your old band(s)!
My favorite thing I've done recently is when René played the intro to my "theme song" live before his interview: ruclips.net/video/RTeqmHquWqU/видео.html
Thanks for the link! That intro was hardcore! 🤟
great video, thoughts on extron scalers?
Scanning through the video thumbnails, it looks like Macs aren't featured (which isn't unexpected, but is a shame). Good video so far regardless, thanks.
Actually, all of the scaling options can be done on a mac. In fact, my follow-up video will be how to build a capture solution for less than $300, then move the captured files to anything you'd like.
...but yeah, no Mac guides yet. Sorry, maybe someday!
@@RetroRGB no worries, and thanks again. When I said Mac, I primarily meant hardware-based capture, but in fairness I haven't looked deeply into Mac software options either. I've a few hardware devices I need to spend more time with that could (in theory) do a good job (OSSC, BlackMagic Intensity Shuttle, Elgato Cam Link), which could be combined with OBS or similar I guess. Time spent working all that out is time not playing games though; that's why consumer plug 'n record devices are popular (despite what they might do to framerates, scaling and compression).
My pathetic game capture attempt from last year on a Mac using the OSSC and Elgato Cam Link: ruclips.net/video/MOLdxSxg_NI/видео.html
Nice video. The Startech PexHDCap60L (rebadged Micomsoft) needs this treatment. I am too stubborn to get rid of it :P
Update question for you Bob. With the evolution of OBS recognizing the Datapath as an input card is the vision software still needed? I own both the OSSC and the RetroTink 5x and they both look great.
Yes, its an excellent tool for lots of things, including screenshots. Also, it's free and installs with the driver, so why not keep it around just in case :)
@@RetroRGB understood all Bob thank you. So it is not really needed to be running in the background while you OBS is running correct?
No, but I still use it just to be safe :)
@@RetroRGB thank you Bob. Also keep up the good work.
Thank you for the informative video RetroRGB! I have question, basically my brother and I are trying to capture some classic games, don't even really care about quality too much.., our screen cap works with SNES and NES perfectly fine, however Sega Genesis Games on our model 1&2 both output a weird black & white/ Greyscale. I've messed with all the formats and settings but nothing seems to work. What would you recommend we do? Do you think that Retro Tink 2x you showed in the beginning would be a good option?..Or perhaps a generic upscaler on ebay would work? Not sure if it matters but the screen capture I'm using is a Diamond VC500, Any help would be appreciated, thanks again for your time- N
I think the RetroTINK2x is an excellent option! In fact, I should have a video out soon showing a more basic capture method using that and original consoles.
www.retrorgb.com/retrotink2x.html
Am slightly confused as to why you said we needed to find out the resolution of the game first, when you then said to just set it to whatever the vision card says under input?
You never seem to mention the resolution of the game afterwards...
Unless I'm missing something?
The Vision software often shows the improper resolution, so you'll need the actual game resolution for setting hsize and the Vision window's resolution for capture settings.
nice video！I've checked ur website, very helpful! btw, do you think the Wii 480p SDK bug might be the reason why I can't tune the ossc 240p optimal mode perfectly sync with Wii? always having colour bleed
Good question. To be honest, I STILL haven't figured out how to get perfect captures of a Wii. Maybe some day, I'll do a video just on that!
RetroTink it is. That or my 1st gen Roxio Game Capture.
So in short, use the datapath + SCART2DVI for 240p/480i retro console captures, and the epiphan for 480p and up?
Retro Upgrades sells a SCART2VGA that supports 240p/480i/480p (based on a design by Tinkerplunt), so would one just need a VGA to DVI adapter to connect to the datapath?
Datapath for everything except 480i. Epiphan for 480i, 480p and 720p. It will do 1080p, but the colors might get compressed a bit.
The reason you need an adapter for the Datapath is:
- Pin connector
- Sync for RGBs sources
- LPF
If you have an HD Retrovision cable, you just need a basic pin adapter. More info here: www.retrorgb.com/videocapture.html
@@RetroRGB Thanks Bob. Theoretically, could I just buy an E2s and connect one input with a SCART2VGA, and the other with a Comp2DVI, or does the Epiphan capture 480p/720p better? Only reason why I brought up 240p/480i was for the dreaded menu switching in some retro games, but for what it's worth, I'm still in the early stages of my BVM setup.
Can the Datapath vision e1 capture modern games as well? It'd be nice to have something with the ability to stream it all.
Yeah, but it doesn't capture audio, so you'll need an HDMI audio extractor.
Your guide's been updated to utilize VirtualDub2 instead of AmarecTV for handling the capture...but what's driving me crazy is that your VirtualDub2's "Capture pin" settings show RGB24 and RGB32 as color space options along with a whole slew of other settings, but mine only shows "BGR" and "BGRX" for color space, and fields for resolution and framerate. Don't know why my settings are so much more limited than yours, but is BGR (24) and BGRX (32) still the same thing as RGB24 and RGB32??
Wow, I've never seen that before. I'm also having issues with VDub2 capturing at the wrong speed. I'll try Amarec again today, but we REALLY need a solution tweaked for retro gaming. www.retrorgb.com/amarec.html
Yeah, 100% agreed! With that said, the videos I captured with VDub2 look really good...but I'll need to confirm if the color space is accurate.
When I was using Amarec to record my game audio and sounds ended up not syncing with each other's at all and I mean like it takes like 1 minute to start seeing the sounds and video go out of sync heck probably less than a minute why is it doing that does anyone know how to fix that.
I'm looking for advice on how to capture footage from the MiSTer, have any videos that would help with that?
If you're using direct 1:1 analog output, follow these exact settings. For HDMI output, there's some MiSTer settings that might need to be changed, depending on the core.
@@RetroRGB I'm specifically referring to hdmi output (should have been more specific, sorry..) and was questioning what the best method is because ive heard of people having issues with capturing output over hdmi on MiSter, and just wanted to get an idea of what people were using successfully for hdmi capture out of it.
I don't have the datapath vision E1S. I've checked on eBay for canadian prices and its gonna cost me 350-400$ apparently. Do you think that Elgato Cam Link would work good while following all the software tweaking process? I've gotten Cam link because I've read that it worked with the OSSC better back 2 years ago.
I have a Cam Link and OSSC, but the method I use is quite different than what Bob shows here. This video is still very helpful in terms of identifying the areas of focus for video capture though.
One major difference is that the Cam Link converts the RGB signal to YUY2, full range, rec 709. The 4k version that replaced the original is worse as well (partial range, 4:2:0). The datapath keeps everything in RGB, so it's easier to deal with. I kinda wish there was some addon to the OSSC to also act as a capture device. It already digitizes the signal excellently!
@@yoshiyukiblade is there no way to make camlink use RGB instead of YUY2?
@@KentaZX Not as far as I know, Otherwise, the Datapath wouldn't be as important as it is at the moment. You can make do with the Cam Link and OSSC combo though. Because the OSSC does horizontal pixel multiplication (with optim. modes), halving the horizontal chroma resolution from YUY2 conversion won't remove important chroma information. There are other subtleties that you have to account for, but you can still get an image similar to RGB. This is true for all capture devices that can output uncompressed YUY2.
The datapath vision would be a great solution.... if it was widely available, outside the US.
It's not exactly widely available in the US either - it's a discontinued card from the UK. Options are basically $300+ on eBay used, or like $1000 on Amazon from some slimeball seller.
Søren Blackgaard I see an E1 on eBay for $100 shipped right now, and that's far from the lowest prices available to those who are patient.
@@FishamanP well it's no secret I lack patience lol
Line Input is the blue one, not the red (microphone).. maybe you should try something like www.rme-audio.de/products/adi_2-pro.php
Is there a reason why the image in OBS or other capture software is soft, as opposed to how sharp it looks in VCS on my Datapath card?
It's how you scale it. Use "point" and scale to a single integer of the original resolution.
@@RetroRGB I have been trying that. Currently, I'm using my Nti Mini via analog RGB output. It's just, for example, in MM3 the eyes in-stage have a strange line going through the eyes. The pause screen in Gauntlet shows an extra darker blue set of pixels at the bottom of each skull.
Is there any updates on folks selling the COMP2DVI yet?
I believe they'll be sold soon. I'll follow up.
@@RetroRGB No problem thank you. Another question for you. Would you be willing in selling your COMP2DVI adapter?
I might have an extra. Contact me directly please, as it's hard to keep up with YT comments.
Hi dan what is the cheapest capture card compatible with OSSC? ill use it for wii dual, ps2 and probably N64 RGB
Who's Dan?
@@RetroRGB Sorry i mix names with other guy jaja Bob
this scart to dvi converter will be good if it could be output hdmi
That's not at all the purpose. If you need that, get an OSSC.
@@RetroRGB i love dchdmi and could be wonderfull to use hdmi on aes or a consolized mvs
Can you do a video aboutt s-video capture? PLEASE?
S-Video -> RetroTINK2x - Capture card. Then follow the Amarec & VirtualDub instructions from there.
There might be a better S-Video method out there, but that's what I've been doing.
RetroRGB what s-video capture card should we use?
do you still use this method?
Yup! Depending on the game or situation, I'll either use that, the "overscan" method I showed in the follow-up video, or the OSSC.
Great video! I love how you've gone through all the details for every miniscule problem that could arise. I got a Startech USB3HDCap on recommendation from Great Hierophant @ Nerdly Pleasures as I wanted to record old PC Demos and such. nerdlypleasures.blogspot.com/2018/02/startech-usb3hdcap-review.html I've not extensively tested it, but since it interfaces like an old BT8X8 USB card, all my old software and tricks still work. It can take some calculator work to get 1:1, but the old software is tried and tested.
The Startech isn't bad, but compresses colors. I forgot to go over that in the video.
What LGOZ hack is that???
BSZelda
why not use emulators? 4K rendering, filters [if you want them], save states, proper modern gamepads