Ford 4.0 V6 Rear Main Seal Installation - OTC 7834 Tool
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- Опубликовано: 22 янв 2021
- How to use the OTC 7834 to install a rear main seal on your 4.0L V6 Ford engine.
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Great video bro. Clear, concise, and informative. The Ford 4.0 V6 needs you. There are a lot of them out there and while I used to think otherwise, it is not a terrible engine. Not great.. but not terrible. Thanks for the knowledge. I have one and I'll be doing this one day .. pretty soon.
That’s bro! Much appreciated. Just wondering - was that a chernobyl reference? Only time I hear someone say not great not terrible is when quoting that film lmao
@@iamdjnam Nah... just a reflection of my relationship with that engine. I bought an '01 B4000 without knowing anything about the Ranger or the Ford 4.0L V6. It has a total of 160K miles on it but the timing tensioners have been rattling and I know that I'm going to have to do them, the valve covers and the rear main seal. When it all started to rattle, I was pretty furious. I had only ever run Toyota. Put 300K on a 4Runner (5VZ-FE 3.4L V6) and the only tool I ever needed was maybe a screwdriver to tighten interior fasteners because of a lot dirt road miles. Owning a Ford and particularly the 4.0L V6 SOHC, means that you'll need tools, You-Tube, and a community of positively minded DIY'ers. It's a different kind of 'experience'. Can't say enough thanks to you for not only your videos, but your improvement and the inspiration you give to others to pull this thing and make it all work together.
Seriously appreciate your kind words. Any questions just let me know. Thanks for everything.
excellent video I was wondering about the seal do you have part numbers for the sleeve and seal or are they together and what brand I'm trying to do the install exactly how you did also if needed any lubricant what should I use seems you know what to do with the 4.0 sohc thanks in advance
After doing the timing chain set twice, first set broke, we are now doing a new crank seal. It would have been nice to watch this video before I installed the timing set and crank seal. Thank you for sharing your knowledge .
Wondering why it broke and which brand you used.
Just a premium set
Yeah, wish you'd mention the brand or if it's a cheapo amozon one
Which brand of timing set?
That was a couple of years ago, sorry I don't remember. They did warranty the chains, and the truck is still running today. Even though my kid hit black ice at 60mph and rolled it. It landed on its wheels, and he made it to work. lol.
Awesome video! Question: I have a 2006 Explorer, do I need to remove my engine to get to the rear main seal or remove the transmission and oil pan? I need to have mine replaced. Thanks in advance!
Another awesome video!!!!
Your a great explainer some people know how to do things but really are horrible at explaining!!!!! U 💯💣👍
Where do you get the rod bolts for them engine?
Hey man I like your video I have a 2005 Ford Explorer how much would it cost to have it the bracket change are you available for repairs
Really appreciate your videos on this engine. I just had to remove the engine on m'05 Explorer and replace the timing chains and guides, along with the rear main seal. I used the Felpro sleeved seal and carefully tapped it into place; however, mine leaked. I wanted to ask if yours has leaked since making the video before I go spending the money on the Motorcraft seal and OTC tool. Thanks!
No, the Ford one with the tool has never leaked. Still dry.
Platinum guy, thank you for the informative video. Found an aftermarket rear main was the cause of my headache. Just to confirm, the Ford factory part doesn't require any lube or sealant? Thanks
No lubricant required. Thanks for watching!
awesome info on the wear sleeve repair. I have a question for ya though being that looks like the same 4.0 thats in my 99 ranger. Did that one have a wild knocking sound that would come and go and vary in intensity of how loud it was? My thoughts are that i have a sticky lifter since the noise seems to subside at higher rpms and comes back a few seconds after the engine returns to idle.
I appreciate any input you have on this.
Could be a timing chain tensioner. High oil pressure keeping tension, then comes back when the idle pressure returns to 10 psi. You’d have to pull valve covers and check.
1st off i am a Big Fan of your videos with the 4.0 but do you ever do any thing with it in.a S-197 Mustang 2005 to 2009 .? I just was wondering if there's any difference? Great video i learned ot from you
No difference and I have in the past. I owned a 2006 manual
Ok so you use a tool to do the rear main seal installation. Do you have a link where to purchase this OTC tool?
I used a 2×4 to install mine 🤦♂️why didn't I know this existed when I needed it most
Don’t sweat it. I pushed one in too far on my Lexus and had to pull the motor back out. Covered the floor in oil.
Did the 2x4 work? That’s what I was going to use lol
Hi Nick
Just installed a Melling stock pump in our 4.0.
Still have a bad rattle on drivers side. Does oil pump shaft fit in one way or would upside down work as well? Gears appeared similar
Thanks Nick love your tutorials!
Motor also has brand new chains guides tensioners
The shaft is reversible. However you put it in is fine. What brand tensioners did you use? Always best to dish out the money for Ford or Melling.
@@iamdjnam Haynes manual specifies the longer end goes into the pump.
noticed you left the inner metal sleeve on the crank shaft. Do you leave it on or it MUST be remove??? Great video!
Stays on! That is called a wear sleeve. It allows a nice new surface for the seal to ride on. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video. I didn’t actually look up the repair info but when I did they call it a speedy sleeve.
Is it common for other brand seals with repair sleeves to leak oil ? I’ve changed mine with Victor reinz, when engine is hot , the oil is really seeping out ! Is it possible that the sleeve comes loose when engine is hot ? Leaking between sleeve and crank ?
Please advise ( Today I’ve ordered a ford seal with repair sleeve )
The Reinz seal didn’t even fit on mine. I would stick to Ford.
My 05 mustang is leaking oil pretty bad it’s running down the top of the transmission as if it’s a pressurized Leak I have no clue where it’s coming from I know it’s not the valve covers and only does it when I’m running it fairly hard less to the mild side. ( car is super charged with the vortech high output kit)
Check the crush washer on the rear timing chain tensioner.
Hey I just replaced actually swapped a 5r55s trans. With a 5r55s trans. The trans. That I used for parts is a 03 and the one i put the trans. In is a 07 but I read the door label and both have same trans. But I put the 03 trans in 07 and I can't get it to go into gear yes the trans works... Any help u could offer as to why it won't shift???
They’re not the same. The 03 is a 5R55W and the electronics and 2nd gear is completely different.
Any chance you have a part number for the Motorcraft rear main seal? I’m from the Netherlands so I have to search all my mustang parts in the USA, Local ford dealers can’t give me any information or parts. So before i order some parts I want to make sure they are the right ones. Just replaces all timing components and rear main seal with a VictorReinz one and it started leaking straight away.
F5TZ-6701-A
Hoi Wouter, hoe is het afgelopen met je lekkage ? Ik ga de mijne morgen vervangen . Zat ook een nieuwe in maar lekte behoorlijk. Heb nu een originele gekocht ook
Magic.
I picked up the 40647 Felpro. I read in another comment that it doesn't require a tool. It's this seal of ok quality or should I get the Ford seal?
Ford with the tool is better.
@@iamdjnam thank you for the response and the great video.
First question where did you buy the tool ? Second question is how come the original seal doesn’t have a sleeve but the new one does ? Do you have to use the sleeve ?
1) I got the tool on eBay. 2) From factory the crankshaft is within spec. No need for the sleeve. Naturally a wear groove forms in the crank over time and can have minor imperfections thus needing a wear sleeve. 3) The sleeve must be used (ask me how I know about that).
Ordered mine from amazon for $30
So is the old seal left in the motor and the new one jus installed over the old one?.
No the old one must be removed.
Does this seal work with the OHV 4.0 as well or just the SOHC version?
Yes it will work for the OHV no problem
My son has a 2002 Ford Explorer with a 4.0. The engine has a leaking rear main seal. It's 4 wheel drive with an automatic transmission. Is the transmission hard to remove and about how long would it take? Thanks!
I found from experience the engine is actually easier to remove. The transmission is so massive and such a burden. But when the engine is out I always recommend checking the condition of the timing guides. Good luck! :)
@@iamdjnam Thanks for the quick response. If he were to have this done at a repair facility, what would you think the cost would be to install the rear main seal?
$500-$1000
What year model engine will this tool work for? I have a 2007 Ford explorer 4.0L
It will work on any 4.0 from 1997-2010. This tool will work perfectly on your 2007 explorer.
@@iamdjnam thanks
Hey buddy hoping u can help me. I just redid my 4.0 engine and I used the timing tool. the truck will fire up and run great but it has a really rough idle and if I turn it off I can’t restart it it won’t even crank over. I let it sit for a while and it will fire again but runs rough please help thanks again
if the compression sounds strong and everything is in time, check your throttle body (granted its electronic from an 04+), MAF, fuel pressure.
@@iamdjnam will do. I have found that the truck is running extremely rich! if I take the fuel pump relay out it will fire. I will check tps, maf and coolant temp sensor thanks again
Hi there, The tool is expensive to ship to me, I have a lathe so im planning to just make my own tool. If you have the time - do you mind measuring the thread size and pitch of the bolts as well as the inner and outer diameter of the cup and plate? id really appreciate it.
I dont wanna replace the seal then find out its damaged after i put the tranny back in hahah.
You can use the Felpro seal that doesn’t require the tool.
@@iamdjnam
Okay cool thanks. This one I would just press in with my hands?
@@iamdjnam are you talking about
BS40647 or BS40619?
@@COUCHxTOMATO 40647
The OTC tool,Did u buy the expensive one? Are did u get that one off of eBay?
eBay, it was like $40
@@iamdjnam awesome and was the rear main seal a Ford oem gasket
Yes. Well worth the money.
Where did you get seal from?
Ford dealer
Is there any issue you see tapping the rear main seal in?
Do not under any circumstance tap the rear main seal in.
@@iamdjnam understood.
Hey Nick I got my 7834 tool and I got my dnj gasket set but something is not right. In the vid it shows the seal going right over the inner tool before the outer cup with 16mm bolt mine is not? Any chance DNJ gave me the wrong seal?
Aftermarket rear mains never work no matter the brand. I went with Ford OEM on it. I have a stack of aftermarket ones just sitting that don’t fit.
@@iamdjnam Dude you are the best I’ll have to do the same. Thanks your videos are so helpful!
No problem!
Hi Nick I got a new seal that fits the tool, it is a Fel-pro. Doesn’t say if it is PTFE and if it should be oiled. In the video you say to oil it so I am on the outside for easier install but do you oil on the inside up against the metal flange? Thx
Don’t oil the inside. Just very slightly on the outside.
Dude, I have 360,000 miles going to do the timing chains, do I get new chains.?
Ayeee high mileage gang! Nah man, get a different lower mileage engine. That way it won’t need head gaskets soon.
Honestly, if you really want to deal with the stupid timing system that engine has (three timing chains with on in the rear of the block, then more power to you. Otherwise go for a different engine. The Ranger platform has a large variety of engines you can stuff in there. The Ranger, Bronco 2, and Explorer of the same years all have the same chassis
Maybe so, but everything else would need to be swapped. Transmission, ecu, motor mounts, exhaust, coolant routing. Seems like a gigantic headache.
Maybe I’m just lucky. 07 4.0 with 227 thousand. Got it at 70 thousand. No oil leaks at all. I only use Mobil 1 with a motorcraft filter.
The 06+ I’ve noticed can get some awesome mileage. Just hit 250k on mine
Hey man where you located at I need my Ford Explorer Fix the my bracket probably broken I new a one where can I come see you
I’m in NJ
@@iamdjnam what part of New Jersey are you in and when are you available maybe we could sit down and talk about it
@@arthurluthas2249 dude!
Monmouth county
How was the old seal removed?
You can either use a pick or an old screw. I didn’t show that part because if someone gouges the surface and it leaks then they’ll blame me.
@@iamdjnam I certainly understand and thanks for the reply.
Is it the same for the 4.0 ohv?
Yes!
@@iamdjnam thanks! 🙏
What brand seal is that that's not the Ford brand on this video that looks like a felpro or dnj please let me know thanks
Felpro. DNJ doesn’t fit. Idk why.
@@iamdjnam did u use the regular felpro with the metal wear sleeve or just the felpro rubber seal cu they make two versions
@@LiilTyweezy the wear sleeve. The regular one is the worst seal I’ve ever used in my life.
can you do it with out taking the trasnsmission down???
Question if you can PLEASE help me!!! The groove that the rear main seal sits in/seats into, the casting that the seal ACTUALLY sits against, someone who tried to fix it before I got it broke and chipped it so it leaks non-stop constantly. Is it part of the upper oil pan or is it the rear main cap bearing? I’ve been told both but I can’t figure out the EXACT part I need to fix it. Please help me!!! I would send you my number so I can send you a text with a picture and show you what I mean. I’m in a bind and on limited time now
Rear main cap bearing.
@@iamdjnam is this something that I can do WITHOUT pulling the engine? How involved is it? Can I do it and just pull the upper oil pan then have access to it?
@@bluegill2030 pulling the upper oil pan requires removal of the engine
@@iamdjnam ok so to do this job the engine has to come out?
@@iamdjnam the crankshaft doesn’t have to come out though, correct?
Hi. Thanks for video. I only see on eBay clones at the price range 40 . OTC still super pricey. ( over 100 bucks) Is anyone use clones? Are they do the job? Thanks
I only use the clone in all of these videos. Works fantastic.
Thanks!!! Will get myself one right now. Thanks for confirmation. Mine is definitely leaking and need to be replaced. Thanks for all your videos on 4.0 SOHC it’s a great help. I replacing front rear chains/guides now and main seal part of the project. Thanks . Max
No problem. Thanks for watching.
I know what you used for seal lube. FYI you're not supposed to use that.
Couldn’t care less
While I do understand why you didn’t provide your lubricant around the seal who seriously gives a shit whether or not you’ll be lit up on RUclips?
For me it’s pretty simple: do your instructions and whatever you use as a lubricant result in a rear oil seal that does not leak?
If the answer is yes, who cares what lubricant you use! I certainly don’t. I just had an SAE certified mechanic tell me to put that seal in without the metal guide ring on it and I have the Ford tool.
Thanks to your video I will be reinstalling this correctly so I do not have to pull the entire transmission again. Thank you for your video.
I just don’t like to deal with the drama. It’s easier to have someone choose their own lubricant than ruin my day by saying mean things.
Gotta be a tool for the front seal too then I'm sure. Why ford?! 😫
Nope! Just use a seal driver or a large socket :)
@@iamdjnam it's trippy because the seal just slides around when I try setting it in there. Its a smooth bore all the way thru. No lip to stop it. I'll go to ford and see if there's is thicker. Might help it from slipping sideways so much
Shouldn’t be slipping. That damn thing is a tight fit.
@@iamdjnam yea it starts slipping diagonally