Rear Main Seal Leak.. Some helpful tips to avoid doing this job twice.
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- Опубликовано: 19 апр 2023
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@WrenchingWithKenny @snafuperformance2136 @traditionovertrend2704 #wesselmotorworks #wrenchingwithkenny #keepwrenching 
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I hope that I never have to do something like this procedure but I enjoyed watching it being done by a first class, master mechanic. Thank you Kenny! I appreciate you brother.
Rear main seals always a pain, so time consuming no matter what motor it is on. Thanks for another great video
So true
Most rwd stuff is a doddle.
He said a Chevy Cobalt
Great video as always.
7:10 there are repair kits for worn shafts, it’s called Speedi sleeve.
Just type it in here on RUclips and learn all about it.
It saved my wallet when I owned a Ford ranger with leaking crankshaft seal.
Keep wrenching, love your work.
Greetings from Sweden
You can with a majority of rear mains,where a small seal mark has appeared in one area, (not when end float is the obvious cause)also either get a slightly narrower or deeper seal,most common sized seals are available in 1 mm increments in depth or alternatively you can with quite a few engines set the seal slightly shallower or possibly deeper in its seat in order for the lip to run on a virgin part of the shaft. VW's old AAZ engine was notorious for rear main oil seal failure and marking,we used to as standard practice fit a 12 mm seal instead of the factory 9 mm,saved the customers fortunes!
Great video!!! One important part of any seal replacement is lubricating the lips of the seal prior to installation. If the surfaces were cleaned with brake clean or another cleaner then the seal may be damaged since it will run dry.
When I kid, my father would always work on his own cars. We had a garage but you had to jack the car up and put it on blocks. When I was off from school my father would give me tasks to do to get the car ready for the work he was going to do the car. This time the bell housing seal was leaking on the transmission. So after all the work and finally getting the transmission out from under the car, my father put the new seal in. And of course like you say reverse procedure to put everything back. Come to find out he didn't get the seal right, somehow he distorted it. And we had to do it all over again!!
Ugh! That stinks. I have been there. Thanks for watching
Another thing I use for transmission piston seals is cut the outer ring off a cool whip lid, run a lighter around the outer edge to remove any sharp edges. Then run it around the seal to push the lip in without hurting anything. Used to use a feeler gauge but after cutting a few seals, I tried this. Works great.
YOU WANT TO AVOID DOING A REAR MAIN SEAL!?! I bought a Chevy 5.3 v8 suburban. When I got it whenever you would shut it off it would leave a small quarter size oil spot by the rear main seal. I did not want to do the labor and at that time I did not have a lift!! You know I’ve never believed in snake oil too much! Lol so I bought some Lucas stop leak. I was already using Lucas in the suburban anyways. I added Lucas stop leak for three or four oil changes that rear main seal sealed up and it never leaked again I pulled cars and plowed snow with that truck. I also drove it to 325,000 miles never a leak on the ground again, great video Kenny! Also, if you’re driving an old vehicle, make sure you use some kind of oil with seal conditioner in it. My preference is Valvoline max life which I took the truck to 325,000 miles worth the truck is still running and driving today! Good luck!
Stop leak does work, but I'm not a huge fan. Thank you for sharing your amazing story. You obviously take care of your vehicles. Keep Wrenching!
Thank you Kenny!
Thank you for the tool recommendations.
Another good one Kenny. Appreciate you and your content.
One way to check anything like this for burs is run a little ball of cotton around the groove where the seal goes
Yes !! Great idea!!
Thank You for another very informative video Kenny.
Much Love and Hugs
Enjoyed the video Kenny always educational.
Replacing the Seal is easy. Getting to it is the hard part
I have a front seal to do when i get home, D16a6, keeping it full till then. Thanks for including the spring check!
Thanks Kenny.
thanks for teaching us how to. your honesty and straight forward . Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Great job Kenny
Radiator Season is coming up soon …followed shortly by water pump & head gasket weekend … soon it will be towed a camper in overdrive transmission awareness month .. A Hallmark Holliday Card for every occasion “ Sorry about your Transmission going out on Memorial Day .. hope you made it home 🏡 “
I love being a mechanic, most of the time. It's a sense of a true accomplishment that only one would understand. The high one gets from that diagnosis and the completed repair is indescribably. Unless I'm working on my own vehicles, not only because of the inconvenience but because it's my money I'm watching add up the further I get in to it. But a mechanic replaces what's bad on the way to the main project at hand. Mechanics don't do what customers nearly always tell the mechanic, just do what what the car is in for, i.e no preventive maintenance.
But I think that's because a mechanic understands the work involved. It's great for business, that's for sure, because we can gamble when that vehicle will be back they actually can double the repair cost by skipping it..
But sadly many people hide their shame and take the vehicle elsewhere when those other parts break and blame the previous mechanic when they dam well know they were warned.
That's why I take what people say about a mechanic with a grain of salt. Unless it's a jiffy lube employee at most Walmart mechanics,but they aren't mechanics in my humble opinion, they are just highschool kids.
They say cops see the worst of the worst, and that may be true, but a mechanic has to be a close second seeing what conditions people will drive with. "Just replace the tie rod, and leave the bad wheel bearings and clunking ball joint(s) alone." Three weeks later they blame you for the wheel bearings or ball joints saying it's something you did installing the tie rod 😂. Of course they are just trying to get free parts and labor. Document everything!
God bless.
I get satisfaction on still being able to repair my own vehicles (retired mechanic) because of my age & disability (rhuematoid arthritis) as I know it's been done right & inspect them all over about every 6 months that way nothing creeps up on me generaly you can always have a belt/tyre/hose go unexpectally.
Make a run to home depot or lowes to get a seal installer, lol a man after my own heart. Old cobalt and I would have added AT205 to the oil and call it a day.
Good job Kenny
Very good camera clear image on the seal.
I remember when those pop corn aluminum heads came out, I'm not to sure designing blocks is a good idea, I'm really glad you're adding tools to your videos.
Great video
I just did a rear main seal in my wife’s 2017 dodge Journey. It was frustrating because it later became obvious that the Mitchell DIY instructions were meant for a different model in the 3.6l variety. Figuring that out was easy compared to sneaking the transmission back in.
Thanks for the tutorial, FYI you can use the old seal to tap the new one in. Regards!
That's true. I have done it that way before. Thanks for your reply. Keep wrenching!!!
Nice job flyin' by the seat of yer pants Kenny !!
Yes silicone between the bedplate & engine. Lock. Ive seen an anaerobic sealant used for most of those.
You can try this on an old seal, but it works really good even when you're installing a new seal, or any rubber or synthetic rubber compound. Wet it with 303 protectant. Let it dry a little bit. If you have time, let it the day before and let it soak for an hour or so and then just let it dry out. It will last considerably longer. It even works on Tire Treads and helps them last considerably longer
I have actually used a cut up two liter plastic bottle and made it in the shape of a cone and the seal slid right over the crankshaft and drove the seal in without any problems , it’s thin, soft plastic works great
Old school Master Trans Specialist here, some might say ancient, used to use still have a old round wire type feeler gauge, each end a different gauage, used that as it was rounded, less chance of cutting inner lip, also trans lube on garter spring to prevent it from popping out, also used all hinds of trans components as a seal driver trying to make sure in went in even, that piece of plastic cutting board material also works well !
Made something similar out of an ABS fitting for my front timing chain cover crank seal of my f 150.
Remember the old microfiche film ? Try it to install seals, It works wonderful . The BMW rear seal is literally 3/4” thick , we have a cone tool with teeth that screws in and torques to like 60ft lbs then another part of the tool presses the seal out. Installing is using the smooth cone tool and a glue injection tool to seal the bed plate seams at the seal. For installing on ‘normal’ cars the microfiche has worked great for me for 30 years. I know… it shows my age but who cares right
Flexible plastic works great! Even a drink cup or soda bottle. Microfiche 😂 I remember it well. Keep Wrenching
What your recommendation for box end flex-head rachet wrenches that wouldn't break the bank? Thanks. Great video.
It’s called a Speedy Sleeve. They work great on damaged sealing surfaces.
Yes! I forgot what they were called. Thanks for reminding me. Keep Wrenching
In some cases those flywheel bolts have to seal oil as well as stay put, so it's more than thread locker. Isn't it amusing how sometimes the cast aluminum looks like a Styrofoam cup. 😆
Gotta love this been in this same place a time or two on my own cars . Yep done same exact same thing yep works yep very delicate but done. Yes looking for inexpensive scanner that does the job for personal use I don't usually work on other people's cars I'm not a licensed mechanic but probably should have been one.
I honestly feel this scanner is worth the money for all the capabilities it offers. We dont require licensing for mechanics here in the USA but we really should. Keep Wrenching! amzn.to/3LlaE2e
@WrenchingWithKenny thanks will have to save up for that yes I'm in the states most of the people I'm around are certified but they seem to ask my opinion on oddball stuff like once a intake gasket every month on a celebrity 3.something v6 can't remember but this has been to everyone only 158000 for its age very low late 80s early 90s but it was a deformed block like almost an 1/ 16 of an inch in bolt hole distance front was correct from head bolts side to side center was 1/32 wider and back was 1/16 wider yet so heads wer setting angled on the block makes intake difficult to seat correctly. Was my take on it but that's very rare and not one that's on the books. Not something most would ever look for .
If the seals aren't crazy expensive, just get a second one to use as an installer, something you can pound on with a hammer and not damage the one you're actually installing.
Perfect size every time.
The OEM Special Tool is the easiest and best to use but is stupid expensive.
I've noticed you, for some seals at least, dont need anything but a flat head. if you get under the crease(not between the sealing surfaces but the crease on the seal itself) you can get the flathead underneath the steel ring or spring that runs throughout the seals circumference and pry it using that. Especially since it's inside the seal so the flat head isnt touching either of the surfaces.
Great job, Kenny. Don't have any of those spoons, always wanted them? Have a ton of picks and a corkscrew Tee handle seal puller, that's pretty useful? Thanks for showing, that you can do jobs, without many of the specialty tools.
I did include a link in the description for the spoons . They really come in handy
@@WrenchingWithKenny In a pinch you can also use a piece of a broken tape measure, cut and ground to be smooth at the end, to walk the seal in, or some of the plastic banding you get holding pallet loads on.
Really enjoying and learning while watching your videos. When you can please let us know the mileage, engine CC's, model and year if possible. Keep up the great work and ethics!
Thank you !! This one was an 08 2.4 with 114K
👍👍
Nice screwdriver trick,who would have thought of that?Why would you need silicone where those halves meet wouldnt the new seal prevent that?Where would it leak with a new seal?
Can you do a 6.0 5.3 rear main video?
Where are your comments with the link to tools?
With it being a manual box while you have the clutch out, and if it is at all worn slap in a new clutch plate, or at least a new release bearing and pilot bush, as you have it out already, and putting in a new one is zero extra labour cost, and so much better for reliability.
Correct! The clutch, throw out bearing, & slave cylinder were less than a year old, or I would have recommended it. Good call. Thanks for watching!
@@WrenchingWithKenny Had that with a weeping rear main seal. New clutch and release bearing as the old ones were more than half worn. Extra $50 in parts only, as I put in a new cable as well, old one was stretched. But being VW those are cheap parts as aftermarket.
The grease application was ingenuity.
That's old time mechanic stuff, just passing that along !
Put 2 screws on it and pull with 2 vise grips and just pull works 90% of the Time.
Dont put the screw too Deep but all the way in the seal
Harbor freight $5 set of feeler gauges. Works good for working in a seal lip.
It is good in theory. Quite often, seals end up getting cut using them. I have done it myself & seen it happen to others. I would never chance it on a job like this one. I definitely wouldn't want to do this job twice!
First time I've heard o-ring picks called seal spoons...
Very similar way of installing seals on trailer hubs
Kenny make a seal installer tool using a small wire like half size bailing wire and fold over and slide into a short small diameter Cooper tube and hammer down end of tube with wire is and work awesome
clear as mud
👍😎👍
Gotta get yourself an inexpensive 3d printer to make your own “custom” bearing press tools, etc.
I have seen that. Pretty cool stuff. Keep Wrenching
So nothing is supposed to go on the outside surface of the seal when installing? 🤔
Hey Kenny, what's your old rag policy?
I just discovered the channel a few weeks ago, I love spending time in the shop with you. I haven't worked in a garage in three decades, so it's nice to see what the late-model problems are. I wish that I had a mentor as patient and eager to learn as you at the time.
We have a cleaning service for the old rags. Thanks for watching!
@@WrenchingWithKenny Great, thanks.
It would be nice to pick up a metal lathe and you could make drivers. That’s what I do. I make my own seal installers
That's cool. Keep Wrenching
What I like to do is drill a small hole in the seal and use a slide hammer with a screw
what car is that?
Sometimes I get it started with a hammer and then use the old seal to send it home
Great point!
Those damn rear main seals. A pain in every car
Speedi-Sleeve!
A metal hammer on a seal? On aluminum!? 😂
How many hours for job $, don't laugh I used zip tie to work seal lip in ! 50s on GM flywheel bolts same ritual ! Argh! Kenny need your expertise on rope main seal 46 Ford ,51 chevy- rope seals that where used back then! The old timers are gone and ones that are alive their mind also gone! If you don't put mild locite on those flywheel bolts ,oil leaking slowly on clutch disc,and slippage starts in time! Enjoyed video with my morning coffee!
Thanks for watching!
Lmao nylon plank you know you sliced up your brides cutting board
Haha !!! It actually may have been one at some point lol 😆
50/50 whether you'll be doing that one twice, imho.
blue devil. because that motor will need every seal replaced in 25,000 miles. waste of labor and time cost.
Automotive engineers must hate mechanics…
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