Spinning Wheel Stud & Seized Lug? What Would You Do?
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
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The Bit was cutting great, that's why I didn't make a pilot hole
@WrenchingWithKenny @traditionovertrend2704 @snafuperformance2136 #wesselmotorworks #wesselmotorworks #wrenchingwithkenny
You did well to keep your cool, I would have been ranting and raving all day.
I worked at a store shop and ran into this stuff all the time. I have experience as a machinist helper, and I fabricated a set of sockets with a bronze sleeve to keep the nut from moving while drilling the stud.
That's along the lines of what I was thinking. The sleeve could maybe be held in place with putty if you didn't want something permanent.
Hi i had that problem before and i solved just sliding a saw blade between the rim and rotor golding it with a players and using the impact to turn the lug nut and the blade cut the stud in couple minutes. May be the idea help to next time ur videos are very clear and helpfull thanks
Kenny..... I'm 74 and a darn good mechanic 🎉, and I can learn from any of your videos. Simply, because there is ALWAYS another and maybe an easier way to do anything!!
Amen
Yes at 70 retired mechanic I always learn every day!!!😊😊
Ive learned to put a prybar between wheel and hub, apply outward pressure, and let air impact do the work. Snaps the stud right off
Exactly what I was thinking. Seems tension on the stud would have allowed the lug to loosen.
I was told by the machine shop to use cobalt grade drill bits as they are tougher than standard HSS drill bits . My ford focus was a nightmare using HSS drill bits. rgds Don
The lug nuts with aluminum caps in my opinion are a hazard because they warp/bend and you sometimes cannot get the lug nut off with a traditional socket wrench. If you have a flat tire on the road, you are SOL. I replaced all these lug nuts with solid steel lug nuts.
You're absolutely right! Nothing is worse than swollen nuts 😉
@@WrenchingWithKenny lol 😂
Yeah those caps suck once they crack and expand from rust and other reasons. I've had sockets jam on before, didn't think I'd get em' off.
I'm glad to see that I'm not alone in thinking that drill bits are sacrificial tools. Sometimes you have to use up the capability of one tool to get the job done.
That's the truth! Mrs Wrenching works at Lowe's Home Improvement 😂
A parking lot mechanic way to removing spun wheelnuts: you get someone or something to push hard on the inside of the wheel, thereby attempting to hold the wheelstud in place, at the same time wrenching or impacting on the nut to unscrew it.
just a side note. on styles like this where the caliper bracket is bolted in front of the spindle and not behind, just pop the center cap, free the axle nut, caliper bracket and remove the brake hose. next undo the bearing and take it all off then you can just grind out the back of the stud and punch it out. obviously check the bleeder valve beforehand to weigh out if this is a good route.
this way guarantees you will not damage the rim and is less hassle if everything comes off nice, especially since you had to pull the bearing anyway so this would of nullified the drill time and damages from going through the front.
nothing wrong with the way you did it and hindsight is 20/20. for me personally this just alleviates the stress of damaging the rim and feels like less of a headache.
Brother I just drilled out a stuck lug on my ram. If the lug is stuck take a good four-way lug wrench put a bar on it with constant pressure right before breaking point and hit the end of the 4 way with a 3 or 5lb hammer it will alway come loose...or break lug off. I learned this after drilling out the lug
I've had to do this numerous times. When I get to the stage where I've gone as far as I dare with the drill, I usually find I can simply knock the stud out from what remains of the nut with a punch and a few good hits.
Top instructional. I would have ruined the rin. My mate in 1985 bought a year-old M3 BMW. Despite instructions, he got a wheel balance and ended up with lead weights on the outside.
What works much better than a 1/2” drill bit, is a 1/2” 4 flute end mill ....I’ve done it that way and it cuts so much better
You're right!
In a situation like this I would have used the 1/2" bit to make a dimple in the center of the stud and then use a small bit - say 3/16" to drill a pilot hole. The 1/2" bit will drill a lot easier then. With a 1/2" bit in a drill press you can get some real leverage behind it that you can't with a hand held drill.
I find that if the drill is cutting good , I just keep it going . But if the drill is having an issue , I will indeed drill a pilot hole . Next one I get I will show that process. Thank you for the input !!
John, how are you using a drill press in this situation???
What keeps the new stud from spinning in the hub like the old one? The knurling obviously failed to secure it in place. The hub was probably damaged by the spinning stud and slightly wallowed out. I might of tacked it in place while on my bench. I’ll add that this is something I’ve never had to deal with.
Same problem on my lincoln, just ordered all new lugs
Be in Friday 😊
Instead of titanium, use a cobalt drill bit. It will cut faster and last longer.
Just wondering you could weld a tab on to the nut and use a slide hammer to pull the stud to the groove to get a better bite as well the heat from the weld could help un seize the nut in the process? great mechanic excellent content . From Ireland
Or just weld a 5/8” nut and threat that slide hammer right in
@@VeryPersian Correct there is a way
Well done mate! Thanks for putting this up I have the exact same problem and will approach it this way.
So if you can wedge it tight enough you can get sometimes get the lugnut to spin slightly more than the stud and walk it off with only minor scraping of the mating surface of lugnut to wheel. This works the same at putting a prybar or screwdriver under a fastener when you have a spinning nutsert.
Otherwise if you are a good a double cut carbide and cut down between the stud and nut and crack the nut off with a chisel. While have a rag around the nut and against the wheel between the chisel and wheel. The reason you go between the two is so you don't skip off.
Many thanks to the bone headed engineer who thought those chrome caps would work. Had a similar problem on my Jeep Liberty. All of those worthless caps are in the scrap metal bin!
I've encountered this on a few occasions, I've found the best method to be to drill a small pilot hole down the center of the stud, then use a steel hole saw to cut the lug off the stud 😎
With the greatest respect to your skills Kenny, I would have used a smaller pilot drill to the depth of the wheel nut, and then progressively opened out the hole until the nut threads were drilled out. In my opinion, either High SpeedSteel Drills, or best of all are old fashioned high carbon steel drills cut better than titanium at this sort of job. I would not have lubricated the job either, let the drill do it's work, and keep the speed lower to prevent overheating. Your programmes are excellent and I look forward to watching each new upload. Thanks and best wishes.
Hi, has above i would tackle this problem the same way :) I have had to remove a Discovery 3 wheel nut that was round off, wheel stud was seated ok, how i went about it was my workshop has a plasma cutter, on a low setting just kept a cut on the side of the nut, with presser like you did, and it came off, with no damage to wheel or stud. love your vids :)
Sure, drilling a pilot hole first the job would have went faster, the problem is getting that pilot hole straight. Personally I would have taken the same route as Kenny.
I was thinking the same thing. I always drill a pilot hole before going with a 1/2" bit. The drill bit wouldn't get hot as fast or dull as fast. I would also use a heavier oil than WD40.
Yes a pilot hole first and reshart that bit dont toss it and theres a way to sharping it so it cut faster
Why wouldn’t you use a cutting oil in this case? I am honestly curious as I’m a DIY guy, but in the last year I have started taking on larger projects and drilling through thicker metals.
Lug Ripper is another option, Great Tool.
Thank you for this video!!
Drill a 5mm pilot hole first, then follow up with the 1/2 inch bit. WD40 is mainly paraffin. Cutting oil is way better...😳🤔🇬🇧
A pilot hole would ease the journey, from past experience. A cobalt bit is a bit tougher.
Very informative video Kenny thanks
Your bit is shot because you're not drilling the way it likes. Get carbide bits and don't get them hot at all. Peck, back off, peck, all while using oil, not wd40 as wd40 gets absorbed and evaporates too quick.
Oscillating tool + diablo metal blades ,
cut stud from behind in between rim and hub . Worked for me the , bend a little the blade to get there , works only with rims like this one with enough access space .
I recently dealt with something in the same vein. I had a locking lug nut (mc gard) shatter right down to the seat when attempting removal. The only way to deal with it was to get an 8mm carbide bit and drill the stud out.
What a total pain in the butt having to go through partly because of those chrome tin caps on the lug nuts. Kenny, great job and great video with many tips. Thank you.
those suck but likely someone crossed it and spun the splines in the lug slamming it in the rest of the way.
This was an enlightening video. Thank you
First of all before I put that expensive big drillbit in there I would’ve drilled me a 3/16 pilot hole and then use my big drillbit
To Remove: 1st; Big Drills go slow, little drills go fast. If'n I was to drill it, I'd be doing the preverbal 1/8" starter bit first at 2,000rpm, then work my way up to finish w/ 1/2" drill bit at 300rpm drowning each step with lots of light oil. BUT, I spent 25yrs in a muffler joint, so I automatically think "Blue Wrench." Step 1: Find a piece of muffler pipe conduit or form some sheet metal into a tube, that fits over the nut to protect the wheel. Have H2O spray bottle to quench handy. Then "skin" the cap off the lug nut, quench. Then "skin" the actual lug nut off the stud -OR- burn the stud out of the nut like Ken did with the 1/2'' drill bit, but stop and quench to keep from burning the wheel paint. -OR- Use a fine bit in an air chisel to skin the cap off, then skin the nut off the stud. I've even used a stick welding rod at home befor I bought a set of torches, to melt the stud out of the nut. To Replace the stud: 1st grind the stud length way back. It doesn't need to stick out past the end of the nut by more than ONE THREAD. 2nd: Look for the best place to try and fit the new lug into place, then grind a minimal amount off the stud head, then a minimal amount off the hub or knuckle where the interference is. Then coat everything with BreakAway penetrating oil. Coat the hole, the spline and the threads. Then don't be shy, just blast the new stud in, and clean it up with a thread chaser, then draw the stud home with a big lug nut or pile of washers and another lug nut of correct thread. I use BreakAway cuz it has a very light vehicle in it such as methyl ethyl ketone, toluene, naphtha or acetone, that carries a heavier oil deep into crevasses but dries quickly leaving behind a heavy oil. PB Blast stinks like Diesel, I'm not getting paid like a Diesel mechanic, so I'll be damned if I'm going to smell like one. And WD just stinks, and conjures up bad memories of starting wet engines. P.S. I don't do Concours work. "Ben Tested Tough" ben/ michigan
Not sure if this is the case here or not.
I found this happening with cheap aftermarket wheel hubs.
Breaking a stud off is easy, unless you WANT to break it off.
Once you find the center of the stud start with a small drill bit and keep going up in size until you get to the proper size. That way you will not dull your larger bits. It has always worked well for me.
3/16, 3/8, then go to 1/2"
Next time start with a smaller diameter bit for a pilot hole, as it will drill into the stud easier.
Tell me you're a safe cracker, without telling me you're a safecracker. Mad drilling skills. Drilling any kind of hardware is my greatest stressor at work. Great job!
😂 thanks!
Hell, I just went on ahead a subscribed. I like the concept. "What would you do"? Invites conversation. I like talking/texting.
Take off the other 4, pull wheel away from hub, use a sawzall with long blade to cut stud. If that doesn't work, then resort to drilling.
Awesome job.
Ps I also would have drilled a 1/4 hole first
Isn't this Ralphie from "A Christmas Story"? 😂
Hi Kenny. Something similar happened to me in the uk in a lay-by with my Ford Transit van. Had a blow out and had to fit the spare. I drilled two smaller holes in the nut at 180 dg. to each other and then split it with a sharp cold chisel. Thanks for your videos. I really enjoy them
Good call. Lug nuts are made from a steel that is much less tough (i.e. has a lower yield stress) than wheel stud steel which is some damn tough stuff!
Didn't really think about it at the time Trotter, but when you put it like that, it makes a lot of sense
My dad says (boogered up) all the time
I would have taken all the lugs off like you did. Slid my prybar between the wheel and the hub, apply pressure, back out the stuck lug with the impact. This reapplys the pressure you want on the spinning stud. If that wasn't enough I would have used some of weight of the car to apply pressure to hold the stud in place. One of the first days I had turning a wrench for pay I watched the lead tech, a guy who had been working with a Mercedes dealer since he was 16, drill out a wheel bolt with a carbide bur (Mercedes uses bolts not studs on their wheels). He smoked 2 or 3 of them before the massive head of that bolt was finally off because only the very fine tip of the burr was cutting, not the deeper cutting surface on the sides. Drill bits don't cut into those Merc wheel bolts.
Method here worked fine. I would have sharpened that bit 2-3 times if I was doing it this way.
I use an oversize nut, or nuts stacked, to pull studs into position.
I lube up everything, EXCEPT THE SPLINES, so that it can all slip and rotate while turning.
Interesting, I will have to try that
Hi kenny I have to say you are a very good mechanic, but drilling out this stud is kind of bordering on metal fabrication, speaking as someone with over 50 years in metal fabrication the mistake you made is not starting with a smaller diameter drill around 4mm in diameter, then step up a couple of bigger sizes before finishing with the 1/2" drill
I agree! The drill bit was cutting so well that there wasn't a point to me stopping. Otherwise, I would have done so. Thank you for your insight. I do appreciate it. Keep wrenching 🔧
If you went in slightly angled maybe the lugnut snap sooner?
You can hear the whistling, that means you're no longer cutting effectively and need to sharpen your bit/replace it
From the sound, that drill bit was dull early. Try more lube, and stop and sharpen the bit if dull.
I had the same problem. I solved with a very thin and a small cut-off wheel 3 inch in diameter it was attached with an extension to a small drill. I precisely placed the cutoff wheel between the wheel and the hub component, where you placed the crew driver as the spacer. It was very quick and very low risk. I only had about .3 of a cm between the wheel and the hub. I managed to not damage any other parts of my 2016 Acura ILX. If you want the video, let me know sonIncan send it to yoi.
Hi um yes please I would like this video 🥴
Many thanks for the very useful video. Am also facing the same problem in my Nissan X trail T31.Shall try out your technique to take out the lug nut with the bolt.
I have done what you did with cocking the wheel and if there is enough space between the wheel and hub I take a Sawzall with a hacksaw blade and cut the stud in half. The blade will bend enough thru the wheel opening. If not enough space or you have a solid wheel, then how you did it.
Wow. I am speechless.
Right idea. Terrible execution. On every front. Starting with that wanton use of the chisel.
Then, that drilling, geez.... That wasn't cutting well. Turning way too fast and.... Just, why??
I woulda poked a hole in that flimsy lug nut cover. Awl, center punch....the drill bit can get through that too, I'm sure.
And pilot holes are very helpful.
I think I woulda done that in three easy pokes, instead of that drawn out mess.
Then slamming the wheel around and prying with the socket and extension instead of just finishing your drilling??
The only damage caused was done then, and at the start with the damn chisel!!
Hey, the wheel is off tho.
lisle makes the bearing tool to insert the new stud
I would have tried prying on that rim the way you were than tried hitting it with the impact again. A lot of times you can just use that extra little bit of pressure to hold the stud and spin off the nut.
If you use something better than WD40, your bit will last longer.
Drill it out while it’s still attached so it’s a little easier.
Happened to me after I hit a brick ( regular red brick) that fell off a masons truck and flattened the tire. On the side of the interstate removing wheel for spare. Last lug did that🤨. Called tow had em put in in driveway. I drilled it out next day installed new lug, then I took those tin lug nuts and threw them out!!! Replaced all four with solid chrome!!!! You would think that spending that kind of money on a vehicle they would use solid lug bolts!!!! They all brag about their great quality then put that shit on it!!!!
"You could have completed the task within minutes if you had a socket extractor."
Die grinder and carbide tip, just grind the thing off. - Oh..... Nut? Just use an air chizzle and split the nut.
I installed 5 studs in an auto parts parking lot because studs started breaking during a road trip. The whole strut and wheel bearing was from a salvage yard. We hit something on the road which took out the strut and bearing. Studs probably had been over torqued before I got it. Lucky I was able to put them in without pulling the hub. Manually crank each stud in. Had to improvise because the lack of tools at hand.
I held a socket with a vice grip and drilled through the drive square
Good idea but did you try unscrewing the nut off camera after had loaded it up (rocked the wheel) it would have been worth a try.
man, mechanic or owner, who needs this bullshit problem in today's times, what a pain in the ass !!!! i dont think any time in history have mechanics had more weird time consuming problems than the last 5 years. the things people do to there cars, and then want miricles.
lisle makes a stud installer like that
Those are the most piss poor excuse for a lug nut they ever came up with. First thing I do when I buy a new car is check and see if this is what is on the car and if so off they go.
center punch lug nut cap drill it so your not using a chisel then drill away
Excellent
FOR THE LOVE OF GOD LOOSEN THE HUB BOLTS!!! Thank you. :)
Like Kenny mentioned, the art of using drill bits is, the larger the bit is, the slower the RPM needed? The smaller the bit, the faster the RPM, and the use of cutting oil is recommended? Great job, as usual, Kenny.
Drilling steel takes practice & skill. the bit size doesn't matter, you have to control your speed so that the bit can cut the steel. you can adjust until you see the nice large shards, and not powdered metal. the bit has to be allowed to cut the steel, going too fast just burns it up. this is why a 1-speed air drill sucks. and, use a corded electric drill or you'll be wiping through batteries quick.
I have used a hole saw around the stud very carefully nut is softer metal run saw down stud wiggle wheel. Seat will pop off
Great tip ... I hope I never run into that.
Once you had the wheel loaded up on bad stud I would of tried Impact gun one more time.
Me too, 50/50 but worth 10 seconds of trying.
I'd start by cleaning the shop
Hi kenny enjoy your video s
Should Peel off the chrome cover ans unscrew the nut with a socket or nut extractor
After you have wedged the rim didn't you try catching the thread and wrench it off
My channel name is to show I'm always learning, and hopefully, people watching will realize they have an opportunity to add something new to their memory bank. (They don't know everything!)
I agree! We are always learning! I continue to learn from the kids I mentor because they look at things a different way.
Why won't you just split the nut with an air chisel
I've never seen anyone successfully do that without mauling the rim
I have used a good hardened impact socket for a drill bit guide to both hold the nut and align the drill to the stud just a bit of advice from a machinist 1/2 inch drive socket and a drill one size smaller and the rest is easy
My question is how did the nut almost get removed and then the stud came loose letting it spin like it did.I was just helping a young couple and this was their problem on the one stud plus a nail in their tire, after filling the tire with air i was able to get them on their way to get the tire fixed so i dont know what ever happened to their problem
Good
Kenny why does the new stud look different than the rest ?
It is an aftermarket stud. It performs the same way though
My brother in law would have took an angle grinder and give that wheel the beans!
Just use a breaker bar and snap it off. 30 seconds. Work it easily in multiple directions.
I had a problem where the studs were a poor fit and would spin if there was any corrosion in the lug nut. I got around it by drilling a small hole in the chrome cover and spraying some WD in each one. Let it soak a bit and the nuts came off easily.
This video just saved my ass. I do all my own automotive and home repair. I’m 45 and can count on 3 fingers how many times I’ve paid someone to fix anything for me. I’ve done some major repair work on home and auto, by myself. I’m great at solving problems, this one had me stuck. Thanks for the help brother.
I'm glad I could help! Thanks for leaving me a comment. Keep wrenching 🔧
Kenny's new book: How to finesse a broken stud to save your day!! Well done! You keep doing you, Good Sir!! 💯💯👏👏👏
Ford Ranger neighbors truck. Spinning studs so I wedged a chisel or beater screwdriver behind stud head and loosened lug nuts. Replaced studs good to go.
Thanks for the video. I ended up breaking one of my titanium bits and went and bought a cobalt drill bit and got the lid off.
I'm glad the video helped. Thanks for watching and commenting. Keep wrenching 🔧
My question, if the stud has the taper won't it allow it to slide pass the back of hub?
I used a chisel to cut the lug but it was a steel wheel and still time consuming.
Good vid! I had a similar thing happen to my 2010 silverado rear drum brakes first time putting snows on. I also drilled the the stud, I sacrificed the cheapest deep socket I had and welded it to a short bar, then drilled my the hole back through the socket. It worked but lubricating it with curse words seemed to help. an old term "there is more than one way to skin a cat" But every way the cat is cold.
This is what I have ever done , never had fail , I use a socket of the same size as the nut , hold the socket with vise grips and drill the nut in the center , starting with a smaller size drill bit and then using a drill bit of the size of the stub , 10 to 15 minutes of work , it will break free !
These jobs depend on the customer, because 2 out of 5 will try to blame you for the stud breaking free. if you worked in a major metropolitan area, aka a big city, you'd know what I mean. people try everything. but whomever it is, always prepare them for the worst case scenario. what if it was a "tuner" with $2500 rims? you can't spit on them.. one human mistake and you have the battle of your life on your hands. but you do get stuck, because you started working on it and the stud ran around on you. you have to be the man and see it through. being a mechanic also gives you vast experience in psychology. it's an unanticipated bonus I guess. nice save Kenny Wrench. 🏁
StrongArm Lever Arm Rig drill motor holding fixture chained to the wheel spoke , apply heavy load , slow rpm’s and cool drill bit with engine oil . 6/4/23
I'm a retired machinist, and when we had to remove broken studs, bolts or pins I would use a smaller drill diameter that was about the same as the larger drill's web thickness to predrill. The larger drill needs a lot of pressure for the chisel edge of the bit to dig in.... but with a predrilled hole, the chisel edge doesn't have to work the metal out and will drill very easily, very little pressure.
True dat! Work your way up to the drill hole size. It works much easier that way.
That's correct; a pilot hole drilled with a 3/16" drill will make the work much faster and easier.