@@ryans413 of course you do if you dont....well i would hate to say a person would be ignorant lol thinking the car will let you win the first time round or a thousandth time round lol
I literally had this same problem and have had limited success with extractor sockets, but I drilled it and used a carbide burr, much easier and no damage to the rim! Good video!
I once drilled 13 out of 20 lug nuts off a Ford Escape in upstate NY. After 25 years in the business you learn a few tricks to make life easier. You can also get a 4” piece of 1” copper tube and hold it with a pair of pliers over the lug nut hole. It will shield the wheel from the heat and sparks but allow your to torch the lug nut off with very little charring to the wheel. Drilling is best but takes some time especially if you have more than 1 to do. Great video, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for video. I Learned the hard way after having to do this in the past. First thing I do after my car gets new tyres and the tyre guy has battered lug nuts on with an impact wrench is take each lug nut out, apply anti-seize and set them to correct torque. Also, if you reckon there isn't much risk of your alloy wheels being stolen, replace the silly locking nuts with regular lug nuts.
Wel done 👍, a lot of work you did out there, where I simply suggest using a rounded nut removers, which are special nuts set that can be attached to your impact wrench which have a small rugged helalix that catches in the revers direction. This set catches all nuts type whether they are in a good shape or even torn out, that will make your job like a knife in a butter, try them out and feed us back with the result in another video, greetings from Egypt 🇪🇬, keep up the good work 💪
This is why, when I lived in MA, when working on the car if the wheels were involved I always put anti seize on the hub and back of wheel and used Mystery Oil on the lugs. Never had an issue getting the wheels off even up in the rusty New England.
Found the same issue doing my brakes, except the previous person stripped the splines to the stud in the hub............so now it just spins. I've been trying to drill it and decided to take a break and look up an easier way.......
I just recently did one where I had to cut the dust shield off and Shear off the back of the stud and then I drove it out with an air hammer. And a pointed punch
I learned several years back to take a 1/2” 4 flute end mill and chuck it in your 1/2” drill…you’ll be able to drill out that stud in about 15 minutes….works beautifully!
Just an FYI.. your not supposed to put anti sieze on lugnuts because it affects the torque value. I think best practice as far as lugnuts is take them off every now and then. I suppose it depends on where you live and how often you drive the vehicle.
@@TheUnknownHarbingers yes I would not put anti seize on It. I have been using your method for some time. But many time i have been thinking, what about using some diesel fuel on the threads before mounting those? Any comment is welcome. Best.
Try this: Spray pb blaster on the lug. use torch on strip kit socket, so that it gets red hot at the end of the socket. hammer socket onto lug nut. Use impact on strip kit socket on lug, done.
A few tricks from my past. First the speed of your drill is key, in this demonstration he held the rpm way too high. Sometimes a quality hole saw will work as long as the guide bit stays in position, the hole saw will wear away the lug. Check to see if the back of the lug stud is easily accessible, if so torch the back off. A hammer and quality chisel will do a lot more work than you think, but be careful of damaging the wheel. They make specialty sockets for rounded off lugs like this. We have a lot of luck with them, if they don't grab use your hammer and chisel to ding up the outside of the lug, usually that will get it.
1aauto is a great channel very informative I like how they not only tell you the right parts to use but they show you how to install them as well as well as videos like this I recommend a lot of people to 1aauto I have never had an issue with them
Can you rewrite that .. I have a breaker bar and I am still unable to take off my tire lug nuts. I even stood on the breaker bar...i weigh 190, bounced and everything...never loosened up.
@@KalanyMightBeADawg123 had this problem yesterday, were you able to solve your issue and if so how ? it’s on the rim so i can’t drive it anywhere to have it removed.
Just had this issue on a 2013 Jeep JK. Had to use a long 1/2" drive breaker bar with a floor jack handle over it. they finally popped loose. My thought was someone put them on with an impact full throttle!
That is the problem. My wife needed new tires and went to the local tire shop. Months later she needs new brakes and I couldn't get two lug nuts off because they were stripped and was unable to change her pads and rotors on the passenger side. These idiots today get out of control with that impact hammering those on way tighter than the recommended foot lbs. This has happened on my truck before as well after getting new tires. I now have to tell these idiots at garages when getting tire changes to make sure you are not putting the lugs on so damn tight.
Yeah, I just had to do that. Whole stud was spinning, so I put a cheater bar on an extension worked it up and down and snapped the lugg off. Easy (buy I was already replacing the hub so idk
Can I just say that 1a auto is honestly the best place to go for auto parts. My oil pan started leaking oil so I went to auto zone and oreilys to see how much it would cost for a new one and they both said well over a 100 dollars. I go onto the 1a auto website search up my part and for the oil pan and gasket it only cost me 50$. Thank you guya
A little bit of transmission fluid on the threads while instalking. It has so many rust inhibitors. If the stud was spinning, why not grind off the backside and tap it out with a punch or drift pin.
Purchase a "self centering drill bit with guide" like carpenters use to center the holes they drill through door hinges. The bits are replaceable so you can put in a cobalt bit if needed. The bit and tip of the guide should just fit through or into a 1/4 inch drive socket drive end. Sort through your 1/4 drive sockets until you find one with an outside diameter as close as possible to the bolt stub diameter that you want to drill out. Grip socket with vise grip type pliers with drive end toward bolt and align as close as possible. If bolt is protruding you may be able to use a small hose clamp to help you align bolt and socket. Now insert drill bit through open end of socket and push on spring loaded bit until it is touching bolt stub and start easy drilling. You now should have a shallow hole fairly accurate in the center of the bolt stub. Then remove this rig and drill away with regular bits of ascending size. The only thing this accomplishes is a starting point as centered as possible. There may be variations of this technique depending on the circumstances. If the bolt is really hardened some people use carbide tipped bits.
This happened to me but the bolt snapped in half when taking it off. The remaining half of the bolt is stuck in the wheel hub. How the hell do I get that out without stripping the threads?? Help!😰
This is happening way to often with alloy rims and aluminum jacket lug nuts, ( for lack of a better description). Car manufacturers must soon change this type of lug nut before us weekend mechanics ruin all our tools.
Nice video! I'm hitting a similar problem when working on my brakes. Ordered my parts from you all and everything looks great. I just cant get the rotor off! I've used a hammer, penetrating fluid and time but cant seem to get the front rotors off of the car. Hopefully if it warms up enough (I'm in Iowa) I'll be able to try using a rotor/drum puller over the next couple of weeks. Think you can do a video on how to use one of those?
You may a Allen screw on it that is holding it on, depending on the vehicle. Look for it on the outside of the rotor! There is no reason for it to not come off otherwise!
Sledgehammer if no rotor screws. 4 hits in a square configuration. Of course replace rotor after these hits. Something this rusted to hub has been on too long and needs replaced. I don’t mess with keeping or machining rotors as this is a safety issue for $30. Not worth it.
Sorry to hear that! Like other commenters mentioned, look for a screw holding the rotor to the wheel hub. Also, depending on the vehicle, some rotors have threaded holes that you can tighten bolts into, and they will push the rotor off the hub.
Have you tried picking at it where the hat of the rotor goes around the hub? I heard from other mechanics that live up there in the rust belt thats the most troublesome part to get off
I take a braker bar, load it up with torque and smack the swivel part of it with 4lb hammer. The vibration brakes the rust loose and torque on the bar takes advantage of it. It's not very good for the braker bar so I have a cheep one for this specifically.
take a breaker bar with impact socket, put on a couple other nuts to hold wheel on, then brasse breaker bar against floor and drive car in reverse to brake nut loose.
Dissimilar metal corrosion makes the steel nuts stick to the aluminum wheel. Use Anti-seize compound when reinstalling lug nuts being sure to coat the nut where it contacts the wheel.
When you have a rusted lug nut, try tightening it first as it will be the path of least resistance (less rust) After it slightly tightens, then try backing it out.. you will keep from snapping as many studs with this method.. you may also need to tighten it, Loosen it, tighten it, loosen it to keep the threads from binding up with all of the rust.
Nice,a link to lug nuts and how to replace would help sales . And us as well. Thanks again your videos are the best .equal to this old house for carpentry!
Part of the problem was likely that you removed all the other nuts first and the rim was wedged against the lug nut. A good plan might be to tighten a nut on either side of the stuck nut and leave the two opposite off. Over torque the two adjacent nuts to relieve a bit of the pressure on the stuck nut, then hit the stuck nut a few times towards the axle with a hammer to break things loose and free the ramp of the thread wind and give it another try. There's a reason why they teach rank amateur home gamers would be mechanics to tighten the 5 nuts of many cars in sequence of opposite points of a 5 pointed star.
I had the same problem on my '05 Ford explorer. Tried everything, eventually got them (I had two lug nuts frozen) with a "damaged lug nut removal socket" and an impact gun. Not fun! The tool is like a reverse thread socket, kinda like an easy-out. Replace all the lug nuts if this ever happens to you!
I drilled it as you suggested. I can see the lug. Used pb blaster on it. Heated it. Tried to you an extractor and it still won’t break. How did you get it to just fall off? Did you drill between the nut and the lug itself?
I used a half a can of CRC freeze off super penetrant, i went back three times to spray each lug. I sheared off a half inch to 3/8 converter and broke a ratchet before using a half inch 2 foot long breaker bar.
Had this on my first car, Dodge Daytona. Them caps on the lugs just strip out. I end up drilling out the entire wheel hole and drove for years with just three of four lugs.
Well that sounds great and looks great but I just use a four-way and snap the lug nut off because you got to replace the threads anyway behind the rotor
2001 Chevy silverado 2500hd 8 lug one of them strip fist thing trash the one arm factory lug wrench for the 4 way lug wrench this will ensure less chance of rounded off lug nut , and when installing lug nut put some anti seize on threads will make it much easier to remove , any way I use my grinder to grind down to threads and chisel and some heat , a simple tire change turn into an event wow
Have the other 4 tight while trying to loosen the last one . Spray , let it soak while tapping on it , (try to tighten ?) , before trying to break it free . if using heat - Is RED hot necessary ? When removing gears a little heat above the keyway is best
Once had a lug nut and stud have stripped threads in such a way that the nut was loose and could spin freely but would not come off, had to drill it out but also hold the nut from spinning the whole time, in a recessed hole on alloy wheels
You would need an accurate way of just heating the stud. There are tools that uses induction heating to heat up small areas. Tight areas like that would be hard without heating everything else in that area.
Even better way. When the cap comes off, put on a socket that's 1mm smaller. Then hit the end with a good brass hammer. Put your impact on it and run it off. Works almost every time for me. (Michigan tech here)
Could have tried (might not would have made any difference)after the cap was off,spray with something like PB Blaster and go take a break for a half hour (or left it sit overnight) also could have reinstalled the two lugs on each side of the bad one while trying to "persuade" it
@@1AAuto also might add if you have a lug Bolt with a taller than average hex you might want to make sure your socket completely covers the hex,some sockets don't (too shallow broach,even in some "deep" sockets (what I call "nut stop" so the nut doesn't fall way up in the socket) think Wright impact sockets and old Bonney impact sockets completely swallow those tall hex,such as the ones found on certain BMW and VW ,also older Craftsman deeps I think are broached almost the whole height of the socket
Just had this type of fiasco happen on my old ladies 2012 Honda Accord, went to take the wheel off to get new tires and one of the lug nuts wouldn’t budge and unfortunately it started to spin the lug stud! So I was stuck using this method to drill out the stud and after a couple of drill bits and a chisel I was able to get the stud drilled out far enough that the lug nut came off! It was quite the job and one I don’t ever hope to have to do again!!!
How do you remove the wheel out if the nut is still on the bolt when the bolt stripped out from the back of the wheel's hub? Honda CR-V's 19mm nut/bolt spins freely. bolt popped out from wheel hub. Worry that the wheel be damaged if I uses a grinder or hack saw, Not enough room to cut.
I bought a car with locking lug nuts on the wheels. Had no idea until I needed to remove the wheels. To address a brake issue. Come to find out some one had lost the wheel key. I ended up hammering a 12 point socket on to the keyed lug nut and impacted off. How ever there was one that would not give up. Due to the wheel design drilling was not an option. So the wheel had to be destroyed with an air hammer to chisel out the stuck now destroyed locking lug nut.
I just used a $70 Bauer hammer drill( Harbor Freight) with a $40 rebar cutting drill set(Home Depot) it took me approximately 30 mins.. hope this is useful
my 2014 Infiniti qx60 often has seized nuts. i usually just snap them and replace the bolts and nut. I had 2 recently that stripped off the splines of the bolt in the rotor, I had to remove the wheel along with the rotor and hub together. quite a job. then I discovered the bolts are so hardened that they can not be drilled. I couldn't reach the bolt heads with an angle grinder and finally had to cut the bolt heads with a torch, took me all day to do a 1 hour job. i feel there is a problem with this cars bolts but don't know if Infiniti as a group has this problem.
Forced to do my own brakes after a shop turned me down (excessive rust). First three wheels went smoothly but, ironically, the previous owner grossly overtightened all the lug nuts on the new, rust-free, wheel hub. I couldn’t get the lugs off even by jumping up and down on the breaker bar. I broke out my Chicago Electric 12v emergency roadside impact wrench, banging away until it seized. I switched to my DeWALT impact driver with half-inch impact socket adapter and the adapter instantly snapped. I had to use a torch while jumping up and down… and even then it damaged the threads on at least three studs and pulled the threads clean off one of them (like a perfect coil/spring). It was the only hub without rust, there was body damage around the wheel, and the rim had junkyard numbers so it was clear that the previous owner had replaced the wheel hub and grossly over-tightened. Meanwhile, my brand new caliper isn’t working right so I’m going to have to go back in. Wish me luck!
While I understand some jobs can be difficult this video does not seem to be about removing rusty nuts since penetrating oil was not even attempted That is the first thing you do as a mechanic in the automotive business Next you apply heat if you can while trying to protect the wheel and try to work the nut back and forth Not sure why the nut was rounded off unless the socket was not the right size Sure after the nut was rounded of than there is no other choice than to drill it out which this video was all about
Thats what happened to me in all bolts when a dude at the tire shop used like a 1000nm impact wrench while the manufacturer says 130nm. Now i dont let anyone tighten the bolts. I do it with my own impact wrench
This jut happened to me. Tried the drill out method to no avail. Put the lug back on a drove to my neighbors and used his cutting torch. Luckily no damage to the wheel
Use Just a smaller socket (impact rated) and hammer into the nut the most straight u can and then twist with a ratchet (not impact gun) And that's it! It'll come off quick
I usually just twist off stud and replace stud. Easier than trying not to ruin rim. Did 9 on an Avalon about 10 years ago. Shop put lug nuts on with impact and cross threaded all studs.
I thought saw socket spinning. I had that happened. Old GM. With small chisel I got broke the rest of that cap off. Went along the side. Thin aluminum cover pealed off. Then smaller socket and impact.
Striped lugnut socket would have solved this problem in 1 min. Drilling is always last resort. And instructor had drill in high-speed which dulls bits extremely fast.
I fixed used cars in the early '70s. A customer bought a used car, asked for the almost new tires on his old car to be transferred over. I had no impact wrench, so used a "X" wrench. The lugs were tight. I twisted that X wrench 180 degrees and the lug nut didn't break loose. Yes, I actually twisted the shaft of the wrench! ( I am a big guy) We told the customer to go to the shop that installed the tires and have them remove the wheels. They destroyed the lug nuts, studs, and all 4 wheels were bent when they got through. Tire shop had to eat that job!
@@Carlos-yz5kz You're right. Nuts can be so hard that it could possibly snap the bar, perhaps even causing a hazard. But that method is used when the nut aren't too tight.
Sized tire nuts on the Highway no matter you can't do any things only this to be done in Garage because of the difficulties and lack of tools available only can be removed as you highlighted also heat can help to break the mating faces of Tire and nut tapper also you may weld a small pipe 3" long internally over the nut and use a Pipe Wrench for opening.
Well there are a few methods of doing it but the way I prefer on a rounded bolt it to go to my bolt bin an find a decent size nut and grab my wire welder an center the nut on the bolt an weld the center of the nut up an wait a few mins the heat from the welding well help break the bolt lose but the new will give you a new head to put on socket on an if you twist the nut off grab another one and then try again you eventually get it when you get the right penetration on the bolt that's my preferred option but like I said there are other ways but it's more of a pain in the rear doing it
I use a tool called The Lug Ripper II to still them out safely and quickly. All the manufacturers are going to this design lug nut and it just makes everything worse. I also have 19.5, 21.5 and 22.5 specialty sockets just for these type of lug nuts.
And I’m sure you pass the savings on the customer,when things like that happend that time shouldn’t be part of the charge, stop the clock and when you finish the clock start back for the brake job
Common issue with Chrysler lug nuts. Ford vehicles have similar problem due to the chrome caps getting rust underneath and swelling. A burn socket works well too.
√ *Watch the Video*
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“Have you ever being working on a job and everything goes wrong?” Yes, that’s exactly what happens to me every time I touch my car 😫😫😫
Same not alone
"Have you ever been working on a job and everything goes wrong"
Yes always.....
photondebuger45 Hone, I will be working on this on the Camry, it shouldn’t take more than an hour or two. 3 days later, Is my car done yet? LOL
@@ahmadghosheh3104 thats exactly what happens quite on point actually but and thats a big BUT dont you like it when thier easy too?
Lmfao. Exactly. Rear sway bar on a 2018 Forester? 20 minute job right? 4 hours later, new end links and busted knuckles.
Just go in knowing you will run into issues then it won’t be as annoying when it happens
@@ryans413 of course you do if you dont....well i would hate to say a person would be ignorant lol thinking the car will let you win the first time round or a thousandth time round lol
I had a car that did that a long time ago. What was supposed to be a quick tire change was a nightmare. Thank you for sharing
+nikkicat03 Thanks for checking us out!
Remember low RPMs and high pressure when drilling metal. High rpms will dull your bit in about 2 minutes.
i didnt know that, i thought faster it goes , better it drills
Would an sds drill be better?
@@xxxkybourbonxxxx fr💀
Certain specialty bits work best at high speed.
True but to much pressure snaps drill bits
Better to have that happen doing a brake job than a flat tire!
Just Had it happen to me during a brake job and it’s still upsetting :( I have 1mm left on my pads
Legit me with the flat and 3 stuck lug nuts I have no clue
@@marianoardon9745 did u figure it out ?
Currently 🙄
This is happening to me rn with popped tire
I'll keep going until the stud breaks in the nut. Then replace stud and nut. I'm used to it by now.
How do you get it to break off by hand tho 🤔😬
@@JAYZ3N7 seriously i need to know my wheel will not come off !
I literally had this same problem and have had limited success with extractor sockets, but I drilled it and used a carbide burr, much easier and no damage to the rim! Good video!
+Steve Melnick Thanks for checking us out!
Needed heat on lug nut.
I once drilled 13 out of 20 lug nuts off a Ford Escape in upstate NY. After 25 years in the business you learn a few tricks to make life easier. You can also get a 4” piece of 1” copper tube and hold it with a pair of pliers over the lug nut hole. It will shield the wheel from the heat and sparks but allow your to torch the lug nut off with very little charring to the wheel. Drilling is best but takes some time especially if you have more than 1 to do. Great video, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for video. I Learned the hard way after having to do this in the past. First thing I do after my car gets new tyres and the tyre guy has battered lug nuts on with an impact wrench is take each lug nut out, apply anti-seize and set them to correct torque. Also, if you reckon there isn't much risk of your alloy wheels being stolen, replace the silly locking nuts with regular lug nuts.
Wel done 👍, a lot of work you did out there, where I simply suggest using a rounded nut removers, which are special nuts set that can be attached to your impact wrench which have a small rugged helalix that catches in the revers direction. This set catches all nuts type whether they are in a good shape or even torn out, that will make your job like a knife in a butter, try them out and feed us back with the result in another video, greetings from Egypt 🇪🇬, keep up the good work 💪
When using a torch put wheel bearing grease on the wheel, it will barely leave a mark after your done
first last that’s a cool tip thanks I will try that next time.
Interesting. Will tmgive that a try!
Yup, seen to many ruined $1K wheels
Found that out the hard way
i think i already did it... somethIng went out from in between lug nut
what am i gonna do?
This is why, when I lived in MA, when working on the car if the wheels were involved I always put anti seize on the hub and back of wheel and used Mystery Oil on the lugs. Never had an issue getting the wheels off even up in the rusty New England.
You use oil on the lugs? They didn't vibrate out?
Why wouldn't you use anti-seize on the studs as well?
Coworker: this lug nut is stuck!
Me: gets the torch.
Same here, I'm surgical with one. Learned at age 13, just hit 40.
Found the same issue doing my brakes, except the previous person stripped the splines to the stud in the hub............so now it just spins. I've been trying to drill it and decided to take a break and look up an easier way.......
I just recently did one where I had to cut the dust shield off and Shear off the back of the stud and then I drove it out with an air hammer. And a pointed punch
I learned several years back to take a 1/2” 4 flute end mill and chuck it in your 1/2” drill…you’ll be able to drill out that stud in about 15 minutes….works beautifully!
I have been using anti sieze on all my lugs for years. I have never had an issue.
I like your approach.
Just an FYI.. your not supposed to put anti sieze on lugnuts because it affects the torque value. I think best practice as far as lugnuts is take them off every now and then. I suppose it depends on where you live and how often you drive the vehicle.
@@TheUnknownHarbingers yes I would not put anti seize on It.
I have been using your method for some time.
But many time i have been thinking, what about using some diesel fuel on the threads before mounting those? Any comment is welcome.
Best.
@@TheUnknownHarbingers no problem affecting the torque value. just torque it to 70% of recommended when using anti-seize
Try this:
Spray pb blaster on the lug.
use torch on strip kit socket, so that it gets red hot at the end of the socket.
hammer socket onto lug nut. Use impact on strip kit socket on lug, done.
A few tricks from my past. First the speed of your drill is key, in this demonstration he held the rpm way too high. Sometimes a quality hole saw will work as long as the guide bit stays in position, the hole saw will wear away the lug. Check to see if the back of the lug stud is easily accessible, if so torch the back off. A hammer and quality chisel will do a lot more work than you think, but be careful of damaging the wheel. They make specialty sockets for rounded off lugs like this. We have a lot of luck with them, if they don't grab use your hammer and chisel to ding up the outside of the lug, usually that will get it.
Imagine if that problem happens away from a garage full of tools. Just replace the OEM crap with solid steel lug nuts and save time forever more.
I had it where the stud started spinning with the lug but frozen on but I had to use a grinder with cut off wheel to cut it off
1aauto is a great channel very informative I like how they not only tell you the right parts to use but they show you how to install them as well as well as videos like this I recommend a lot of people to 1aauto I have never had an issue with them
Leave that one lug not on, remove all others, lower car from jack...turn car on dump the clutch! Lug nut AND tire off at same time
Can you rewrite that
.. I have a breaker bar and I am still unable to take off my tire lug nuts. I even stood on the breaker bar...i weigh 190, bounced and everything...never loosened up.
@@KalanyMightBeADawg123 had this problem yesterday, were you able to solve your issue and if so how ? it’s on the rim so i can’t drive it anywhere to have it removed.
Just had this issue on a 2013 Jeep JK. Had to use a long 1/2" drive breaker bar with a floor jack handle over it. they finally popped loose. My thought was someone put them on with an impact full throttle!
That is the problem. My wife needed new tires and went to the local tire shop. Months later she needs new brakes and I couldn't get two lug nuts off because they were stripped and was unable to change her pads and rotors on the passenger side. These idiots today get out of control with that impact hammering those on way tighter than the recommended foot lbs. This has happened on my truck before as well after getting new tires. I now have to tell these idiots at garages when getting tire changes to make sure you are not putting the lugs on so damn tight.
you were lucky.
i broke 3 sockets when using leverage like you. stuck completely.
so i did just like 1A ...
Heat the lug and use candle wax like solder...it worked for me. old school trick boys!
I would have snapped it off with the breaker bar, you're going to have to replace the stud anyway you look at it.
The lug stud was spinning with the nut (lost it's press fit in the hub)
Roc Pile that can’t be because the nut was still stuck fast to the rim. I got the impression he was using a socket too big for the nut.
@@ScottyB0AllDay Yeah.... good point
yep, I would have
Yeah, I just had to do that. Whole stud was spinning, so I put a cheater bar on an extension worked it up and down and snapped the lugg off. Easy (buy I was already replacing the hub so idk
Can I just say that 1a auto is honestly the best place to go for auto parts. My oil pan started leaking oil so I went to auto zone and oreilys to see how much it would cost for a new one and they both said well over a 100 dollars. I go onto the 1a auto website search up my part and for the oil pan and gasket it only cost me 50$. Thank you guya
A little bit of transmission fluid on the threads while instalking. It has so many rust inhibitors. If the stud was spinning, why not grind off the backside and tap it out with a punch or drift pin.
Purchase a "self centering drill bit with guide" like carpenters use to center the holes they drill through door hinges. The bits are replaceable so you can put in a cobalt bit if needed. The bit and tip of the guide should just fit through or into a 1/4 inch drive socket drive end. Sort through your 1/4 drive sockets until you find one with an outside diameter as close as possible to the bolt stub diameter that you want to drill out. Grip socket with vise grip type pliers with drive end toward bolt and align as close as possible. If bolt is protruding you may be able to use a small hose clamp to help you align bolt and socket. Now insert drill bit through open end of socket and push on spring loaded bit until it is touching bolt stub and start easy drilling. You now should have a shallow hole fairly accurate in the center of the bolt stub. Then remove this rig and drill away with regular bits of ascending size. The only thing this accomplishes is a starting point as centered as possible. There may be variations of this technique depending on the circumstances. If the bolt is really hardened some people use carbide tipped bits.
This happened to me but the bolt snapped in half when taking it off. The remaining half of the bolt is stuck in the wheel hub. How the hell do I get that out without stripping the threads?? Help!😰
Happens on EVERY job! 😩
This is happening way to often with alloy rims and aluminum jacket lug nuts, ( for lack of a better description). Car manufacturers must soon change this type of lug nut before us weekend mechanics ruin all our tools.
Nice video! I'm hitting a similar problem when working on my brakes. Ordered my parts from you all and everything looks great. I just cant get the rotor off! I've used a hammer, penetrating fluid and time but cant seem to get the front rotors off of the car. Hopefully if it warms up enough (I'm in Iowa) I'll be able to try using a rotor/drum puller over the next couple of weeks. Think you can do a video on how to use one of those?
You may a Allen screw on it that is holding it on, depending on the vehicle. Look for it on the outside of the rotor! There is no reason for it to not come off otherwise!
Sledgehammer if no rotor screws. 4 hits in a square configuration. Of course replace rotor after these hits. Something this rusted to hub has been on too long and needs replaced. I don’t mess with keeping or machining rotors as this is a safety issue for $30. Not worth it.
Sorry to hear that! Like other commenters mentioned, look for a screw holding the rotor to the wheel hub. Also, depending on the vehicle, some rotors have threaded holes that you can tighten bolts into, and they will push the rotor off the hub.
Have you tried picking at it where the hat of the rotor goes around the hub? I heard from other mechanics that live up there in the rust belt thats the most troublesome part to get off
Air hammers are a godsend when you run into that.
I take a braker bar, load it up with torque and smack the swivel part of it with 4lb hammer. The vibration brakes the rust loose and torque on the bar takes advantage of it. It's not very good for the braker bar so I have a cheep one for this specifically.
+chill mode Thanks for checking us out!
take a breaker bar with impact socket, put on a couple other nuts to hold wheel on, then brasse breaker bar against floor and drive car in reverse to brake nut loose.
Not if it happens on the passenger side
Did you replace the stud afterward?
Whoever put it on last probably cross-threaded the damn lug nut using an impact wrench...
Dealer techs
@@BP-fx3qc happened to me just now 🙃
Dissimilar metal corrosion makes the steel nuts stick to the aluminum wheel. Use Anti-seize compound when reinstalling lug nuts being sure to coat the nut where it contacts the wheel.
When you have a rusted lug nut, try tightening it first as it will be the path of least resistance (less rust) After it slightly tightens, then try backing it out.. you will keep from snapping as many studs with this method.. you may also need to tighten it, Loosen it, tighten it, loosen it to keep the threads from binding up with all of the rust.
Nice,a link to lug nuts and how to replace would help sales . And us as well. Thanks again your videos are the best .equal to this old house for carpentry!
If you have a Chrysler. Immediately replace the lug nuts for this reason. The overcaps corrode and trap moisture inside the lug nut eventually
Part of the problem was likely that you removed all the other nuts first and the rim was wedged against the lug nut. A good plan might be to tighten a nut on either side of the stuck nut and leave the two opposite off. Over torque the two adjacent nuts to relieve a bit of the pressure on the stuck nut, then hit the stuck nut a few times towards the axle with a hammer to break things loose and free the ramp of the thread wind and give it another try. There's a reason why they teach rank amateur home gamers would be mechanics to tighten the 5 nuts of many cars in sequence of opposite points of a 5 pointed star.
+Juergen Welz Thanks for the feedback!
Sounds like this will work, but can you do a video on this? I just can't picture it. Ty
I had the same problem on my '05 Ford explorer. Tried everything, eventually got them (I had two lug nuts frozen) with a "damaged lug nut removal socket" and an impact gun. Not fun! The tool is like a reverse thread socket, kinda like an easy-out. Replace all the lug nuts if this ever happens to you!
Hello, is there any specific drill bit to use? Tried this process with the metal drill bit, but its not working to drill the lug bolt.
I drilled it as you suggested. I can see the lug. Used pb blaster on it. Heated it. Tried to you an extractor and it still won’t break. How did you get it to just fall off? Did you drill between the nut and the lug itself?
I used a half a can of CRC freeze off super penetrant, i went back three times to spray each lug. I sheared off a half inch to 3/8 converter and broke a ratchet before using a half inch 2 foot long breaker bar.
That’s a terrible situation to deal with but at least you could get to it standing up.
Had this on my first car, Dodge Daytona. Them caps on the lugs just strip out. I end up drilling out the entire wheel hole and drove for years with just three of four lugs.
Well that sounds great and looks great but I just use a four-way and snap the lug nut off because you got to replace the threads anyway behind the rotor
2001 Chevy silverado 2500hd 8 lug one of them strip fist thing trash the one arm factory lug wrench for the 4 way lug wrench this will ensure less chance of rounded off lug nut , and when installing lug nut put some anti seize on threads will make it much easier to remove , any way I use my grinder to grind down to threads and chisel and some heat , a simple tire change turn into an event wow
Have the other 4 tight while trying to loosen the last one .
Spray , let it soak while tapping on it , (try to tighten ?) , before trying to break it free .
if using heat - Is RED hot necessary ? When removing gears a little heat above the keyway is best
Grandpa always said - "To make it move, first make it move the way it moved last first."
Blue point makes flip sockets , one socket is a regular 6 point and the other side is a twist sockets , work great for when I hade sollwen lug nuts
This was one of the better vids from A-1
Everybody’s gangster till it snaps
Good job editing out all the cuss words I'm sure were flying.
Once had a lug nut and stud have stripped threads in such a way that the nut was loose and could spin freely but would not come off, had to drill it out but also hold the nut from spinning the whole time, in a recessed hole on alloy wheels
i would think heating it up red hot then using the breaker-bar would've got it off a lot easier but who knows?
if you are willing to destroy the wheel finish then yes, that will work.
You would need an accurate way of just heating the stud. There are tools that uses induction heating to heat up small areas. Tight areas like that would be hard without heating everything else in that area.
Even better way. When the cap comes off, put on a socket that's 1mm smaller. Then hit the end with a good brass hammer. Put your impact on it and run it off. Works almost every time for me. (Michigan tech here)
I wish this works with mine my bmw but the head came off !! Now there is no place to even put the socket it’s fkd
what is the sense of drilling the middle of the nut? will it loose the nut? please reply
Could have tried (might not would have made any difference)after the cap was off,spray with something like PB Blaster and go take a break for a half hour (or left it sit overnight) also could have reinstalled the two lugs on each side of the bad one while trying to "persuade" it
+David Powell We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair.
@@1AAuto also might add if you have a lug Bolt with a taller than average hex you might want to make sure your socket completely covers the hex,some sockets don't (too shallow broach,even in some "deep" sockets (what I call "nut stop" so the nut doesn't fall way up in the socket)
think Wright impact sockets and old Bonney impact sockets completely swallow those tall hex,such as the ones found on certain BMW and VW ,also older Craftsman deeps I think are broached almost the whole height of the socket
You coulda hit it with penetrating oil and hit the stud with a air hammer punch and got it off being from Ohio we deal with that alot
Just had this type of fiasco happen on my old ladies 2012 Honda Accord, went to take the wheel off to get new tires and one of the lug nuts wouldn’t budge and unfortunately it started to spin the lug stud! So I was stuck using this method to drill out the stud and after a couple of drill bits and a chisel I was able to get the stud drilled out far enough that the lug nut came off! It was quite the job and one I don’t ever hope to have to do again!!!
+Scott Amy Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Manuel impact driver. When you slam it with a hammer the impact and turning force can break nuts free.
How do you remove the wheel out if the nut is still on the bolt when the bolt stripped out from the back of the wheel's hub?
Honda CR-V's 19mm nut/bolt spins freely. bolt popped out from wheel hub.
Worry that the wheel be damaged if I uses a grinder or hack saw, Not enough room to cut.
whatd ya do? i have similar situatiom
I bought a car with locking lug nuts on the wheels. Had no idea until I needed to remove the wheels. To address a brake issue. Come to find out some one had lost the wheel key. I ended up hammering a 12 point socket on to the keyed lug nut and impacted off. How ever there was one that would not give up. Due to the wheel design drilling was not an option. So the wheel had to be destroyed with an air hammer to chisel out the stuck now destroyed locking lug nut.
I just used a $70 Bauer hammer drill( Harbor Freight) with a $40 rebar cutting drill set(Home Depot) it took me approximately 30 mins.. hope this is useful
Next time you have that problem give me a call, I'll bring over my 1500 ft-lbs impact wrench. 😊
I used a candle to heat up the lug nuts... worked pretty well
my 2014 Infiniti qx60 often has seized nuts. i usually just snap them and replace the bolts and nut. I had 2 recently that stripped off the splines of the bolt in the rotor, I had to remove the wheel along with the rotor and hub together. quite a job. then I discovered the bolts are so hardened that they can not be drilled. I couldn't reach the bolt heads with an angle grinder and finally had to cut the bolt heads with a torch, took me all day to do a 1 hour job. i feel there is a problem with this cars bolts but don't know if Infiniti as a group has this problem.
Well it must be a Chrysler. Seems like this is common problem for this brand
Good tip show how aluminium lug nut can get super stuck.. like cold welded in to rim. Gonna use on that spot some lubricant.
Welded a bolt on to the lug. Then I unscrewed the bolt.
if all my lug nuts are like this...and they keep breaking...what can I do to prevent them from shearing in the first place?!
anti-seize compound on the threads when replacing them.
Forced to do my own brakes after a shop turned me down (excessive rust). First three wheels went smoothly but, ironically, the previous owner grossly overtightened all the lug nuts on the new, rust-free, wheel hub.
I couldn’t get the lugs off even by jumping up and down on the breaker bar. I broke out my Chicago Electric 12v emergency roadside impact wrench, banging away until it seized. I switched to my DeWALT impact driver with half-inch impact socket adapter and the adapter instantly snapped. I had to use a torch while jumping up and down… and even then it damaged the threads on at least three studs and pulled the threads clean off one of them (like a perfect coil/spring).
It was the only hub without rust, there was body damage around the wheel, and the rim had junkyard numbers so it was clear that the previous owner had replaced the wheel hub and grossly over-tightened. Meanwhile, my brand new caliper isn’t working right so I’m going to have to go back in. Wish me luck!
yup. twenty minutes ended up to a 5 hour job. Drilling took forever. What are the best drills for metal?
While I understand some jobs can be difficult this video does not seem to be about removing rusty nuts since penetrating oil was not even attempted That is the first thing you do as a mechanic in the automotive business Next you apply heat if you can while trying to protect the wheel and try to work the nut back and forth Not sure why the nut was rounded off unless the socket was not the right size Sure after the nut was rounded of than there is no other choice than to drill it out which this video was all about
Thats what happened to me in all bolts when a dude at the tire shop used like a 1000nm impact wrench while the manufacturer says 130nm. Now i dont let anyone tighten the bolts. I do it with my own impact wrench
This jut happened to me. Tried the drill out method to no avail. Put the lug back on a drove to my neighbors and used his cutting torch. Luckily no damage to the wheel
Snap-On MG725 1/2 Air Impact? Can tell just by the sound it makes😂
You didn't talk about the lug
Use Just a smaller socket (impact rated) and hammer into the nut the most straight u can and then twist with a ratchet (not impact gun)
And that's it!
It'll come off quick
It didn't make the final cut, but, believe it or not, we actually did hammer on a smaller socket for both the breaker bar and impact gun shots!
I usually just twist off stud and replace stud. Easier than trying not to ruin rim. Did 9 on an Avalon about 10 years ago. Shop put lug nuts on with impact and cross threaded all studs.
I thought saw socket spinning.
I had that happened. Old GM. With small chisel I got broke the rest of that cap off. Went along the side. Thin aluminum cover pealed off.
Then smaller socket and impact.
Striped lugnut socket would have solved this problem in 1 min. Drilling is always last resort. And instructor had drill in high-speed which dulls bits extremely fast.
Spray with the old WD 40, light on fire for short periods. Gradually and repeatedly. Works like a charm to loosen the rust without damaging the wheel
Is this true?
Thank you for putting this out. learning so much watching your videos
I fixed used cars in the early '70s. A customer bought a used car, asked for the almost new tires on his old car to be transferred over. I had no impact wrench, so used a "X" wrench. The lugs were tight. I twisted that X wrench 180 degrees and the lug nut didn't break loose. Yes, I actually twisted the shaft of the wrench! ( I am a big guy) We told the customer to go to the shop that installed the tires and have them remove the wheels. They destroyed the lug nuts, studs, and all 4 wheels were bent when they got through. Tire shop had to eat that job!
My mechanic has been trying since yesterday to remove one lug nut on our BMW using the same techniques to no avail.
How about using the jack to push the breaker bar to gain the maximum amount of torque?
Shield 21 That May work sometimes but you can tell early in the video his breaker bar was already going to snap from the force
@@Carlos-yz5kz
You're right. Nuts can be so hard that it could possibly snap the bar, perhaps even causing a hazard. But that method is used when the nut aren't too tight.
Sized tire nuts on the Highway no matter you can't do any things only this to be done in Garage because of the difficulties and lack of tools available only can be removed as you highlighted also heat can help to break the mating faces of Tire and nut tapper also you may weld a small pipe 3" long internally over the nut and use a Pipe Wrench for opening.
Awesome now i wanna know how to remove a rounded caliper bolt
They have reverse threaded sockets that fits over rounded bolts. Good luck.
Well there are a few methods of doing it but the way I prefer on a rounded bolt it to go to my bolt bin an find a decent size nut and grab my wire welder an center the nut on the bolt an weld the center of the nut up an wait a few mins the heat from the welding well help break the bolt lose but the new will give you a new head to put on socket on an if you twist the nut off grab another one and then try again you eventually get it when you get the right penetration on the bolt that's my preferred option but like I said there are other ways but it's more of a pain in the rear doing it
Just cut it off, it must be replaced anyway.
I use a tool called The Lug Ripper II to still them out safely and quickly. All the manufacturers are going to this design lug nut and it just makes everything worse. I also have 19.5, 21.5 and 22.5 specialty sockets just for these type of lug nuts.
VERY common problem on Jeep and Chrysler products as they tend to use those cheap acorn lugnuts and they are a piss poor design to say the least
And I’m sure you pass the savings on the customer,when things like that happend that time shouldn’t be part of the charge, stop the clock and when you finish the clock start back for the brake job
I was wondering does this method also work for broken wheel locks when u don't have the key along with it
How do you avoid damaging the stud or is that hard to do?
Common issue with Chrysler lug nuts. Ford vehicles have similar problem due to the chrome caps getting rust underneath and swelling. A burn socket works well too.
+Dakota Williams Thanks for checking us out!
What drill bits would i need to do this
Great video,i am in the same spot. Local tire shop does not no what to do, But now i can tell them , Awesome
+FAT CAT AMPS - Alleycat Thanks for checking us out!
Ha tire shop only wants to do easy wrk. Took it to a shop said no problem. I mean if ur a tire shop you should never turn away business.
Got a video on how to remove wheel out when 19mm nut holding onto bolt spins (1:49) freely because bolt stripped out of back of wheel's hub?