Done this plenty of times, never had a problem...those of you that are complaining he mentioned many times this is ONE way of doing it without having to remove the wheel hub and replacing the wheel bearing, not everybody has the luxury and replacing every at once for a simple stud, this method is not dangerous.
Recr Actually, that isn't true. This probably won't be, but CAN be dangerous. The shoulder on those studs is all that keeps them from pulling through the hub. On 2 studs, it isn't a huge no no, but if you're doing all 5, find another way, because that's when it becomes dangerous.
I’m grateful for this video today. I changed out a broken lug on my son’s 2008 Honda Fit. I used this method and it worked perfectly. Another guy online removed the entire knuckle and needed a hydraulic press to finish the job. I was done in about 15 minutes. Thanks!
I just replaced studs on a 02 ford explorer, the studs I bought came with the heads shaved on one side. Just as you did. The ones I removed from the factory was the same way, So, I guess your right up there with Ford. Thanks for the video
Wow @ all the people bashing Eric for this... I really think its these kinds of videos that you learn things from. Factory service manuals don't show you these kinds of things. Thanks Eric!!!
@@joshuacarrasco6012 yeah, it is just fine grinding the flat into the back of the stud. I've done it too. I have even seen factory studs with the flat already machined away.
Thanks to your tips here, I was able to do this myself and save myself about $300(The tire shops I called all said about $150 per stud!!! That's insane!!! It literally takes longer to take the brakes apart than it does to remove and install a new stud. Thanks again!!
it's so fucking funny because these mechanics are usually the one who over torque studs and we end up going back to them again for fucking 300$? No thanks, I'll rather do it myself and learn something new.
The dealer quoted me $615.05 because they said the bearing had to be replaced on a 2000 honda odyssey and it's pressed in so the whole knuckle has to come off.
Like eric said, this is the easy way. A lot of people freaking out here. Some people actually look at the cost of repairs, and this way is much less time consuming and cost effective, if the customer so demands it. If he wants the replacement done the normal way, it will be more expensive. Besides, Eric is just putting up a video that youtubers asked for...
Freaking out? Man, someone who talks about work ethics shows a video in which he deliberately breaks one thing to fix another? Really? It's not about weather it works or not, it's about sloppy bodged work. We're waiting for a reapir video made entirely on "zipties", I mean who cares about actually doint it the right way.
provostkhot This is not 'sloppy' or 'botched', the method works and in the right application I have no problem doing it and have never had a problem with this in the many years that I've done it. I think you should focus more on the idiot that cross threaded the lug in the first place rather than demonizing me for fixing it.
I'm lucky I guess, I just replaced a stud on my car and I had enough to get the full length stud back in with no problem. But my grumpy old neighbor did call the cops on me cause of the noose from hammering it in. It was only one stud and the hammering lasted for no more than 5 minutes. Stupid old man.
Wow I'm on day two of hammering my rusted in stud. My neighbor did came by though today.....he offered to help me with any tools he had. Great man 😅 sorry to hear yours is messed up.
well... i think thats is better and stronger than driving with NO stud at all , think is great that eric is honest and he is there trying to save money for his customers , other mechanics would have recomend changing the hub, brake pads , brake caliper,bearing,axle, transmission and maybe the engine for a broken stud!!! ( if you know what i mean with this) What eric just did made the car safer that what it was before.Gracias eric
Just used your tip to replace the two front wheel studs on a 2006 CRV. The hardest part for me was trying to hammer the new stud thru the hub. Gotta check out one of those air hammers from Harbor Freight! Thanks again for the help. You're one of my most trusted resources on RUclips! Keep up the good work!
I have done this and it is a good reasonable method. Even with the missing portion on the back of the stud there is no way you would be able to draw it through the hub before the threads gave out.
Makes me laugh those who complaint about this method clearly never worked on old used car someone wanted fixed on a budget (which is the type of job 90% of independent garages live off). Its not the type of procedure you do on a brand new Audi, Eric knows it... its something you do on a 1998 Sunfire that someone use as a winter beater. and I'm ready to bet that those stud wont ever go anywhere.
The customer paid for 2 new studs, one of which was broken, and the other one had damage threads. They were then replaced with 2 studs with damaged threads. Plus, he spent time polishing threads and grinding down the studs. He should have just removed the hub.
When I insert my new wheel stud, I like to throw the stud in the freezer and hit the hub with a heat gun for a few minutes. Those small bits of thermal expansion / contraction make all the difference
Replacement lug studs usually come with a "D" shaped base for easy installation. And Eric, if you air chizzel that flap that you cut, you can probably drive that stud home without thread damage. Isuzu used to pay 6 hours io replace the studs on all 4 corners. Those were happy days! ; )
All the people complaining this is obviously a work around it's clearly obvious that the client/customer probably couldn't afford the extra labor for the bigger job if this method solves it it doesn't hurt anything
Yes, this method works. But honestly, if I was paying a shop to replace a stud on my car and they did this without asking first, I'd find it very unprofessional.
with that kind of hub bearing there's 90% chance you wont be able to remove without damaging the bearing.. as soon as you pull the flange and the bearing race came off that's another $$$ specially on honda,toyota that a freaking big $$$
Oh I agree, just saying that if anyone is getting paid to do this kind of work, they should be upfront with the customer about exactly what they plan to do. It's like going to the dentist to get a cavity filled and they decide to just pull the whole tooth because it's faster/easier/cheaper. In this case, eliminating the risk of damaging the bearing comes at the cost of a cut-up splash shield and a weakened wheel stud (since part of the head gets ground off).
At $100+ an hour for shop time the alternative will cost the customer a couple hundred extra bucks for no real benefit. The more of a pain in the ass a job is the more it costs the customer.
I totally appreciate this video! It is a massive money saver on a Honda fit! What would have taken me $400 at a shop or two days in 17 degree weather, took me about 30 minutes. Thanks again for the video, keep up the good work.
@@josephmckinney4816 2008 for me! Doubt I cross threaded the last one, more likely that I over tightened it. Too bad it didn't happen to one of the rear studs, cause the whole hub is super easy to replace.
This works 100% and is much quicker, easier and minimizes risk of damaging something. That being said, I would inform the customer about the costs of taking of the knuckle and doing it properly and hope he would accept, before pulling off this sort of improvisation on his car.
Can't believe so many people get upset with this method. Nice idea, Eric. He clearly states not everyone may like it, but it is a viable alternative and some of us do work on old cars where what it looks like isn't all that important. Does anyone think some car manufacturers purposely design them this way in order to ramp up the cost and complexity of repairing them? I do. This is what's wrong with the engineering designs on newer cars and manufacturers don't care about the cost to customers, only the bottom line profit$.
Eric great video!! I have been a mechanic for thirteen years I have done this numerous times NEVER had a problem. I wonder if those people who are complaining about your repair know the tensil strength or rockwell rating of a wheel stud look it up it may suprise you! !!
Not picking a fight, but what does Rockwell hardness have to do with it in this case? You're thinking something like if it's hard it'll be less likely to deform under load? But I agree with you that this repair is perfectly acceptable.
People talking smack about this procedure must not realize they sell pre-notched studs, like the one Eric made, for exactly this application. Also, a jamb nut or axel nut makes an excellent washer to put between a lugnut and the hub flange for pulling the stud through... never had one spin in the hub.
Eric, When "pulling" a stud back in, try using a larger nut or stack of flat washers for your old nut to pull against instead of directly against the hub. It helps keep the stud from wanting to twist. Also lubricate the threads and the washers or larger nut contact areas to reduce the friction. It works for me when I cannot get an air hammer to the back of the new studs to drive them in.
One of the many reason i still drive a 1gen dodge neon.the gap is already there to remove the wheel stud and you dont even have to remove the brake caliper. Its a good way to do it eric..dont listen to the haters.
You pick your car based on how well it caters to wheel stud replacement? I wouldn't drive a hunk of shit, just to make it easy to replace a part that should seldom need replacing, if ever.
Half the people that thumbs down the video are the same people that wont pay the extra money to do it the proper way. If all mechanics went only buy factory spec,they would all be rich. This is clearly a work around for certain occasions .
Awesome. Thanks Eric. I needed this video cause I had no idea how to replace the stud on my 06 Sonata without removing the wheel assembly, which is quite a chore. Some have commented that if a professional shop did this they would be upset. Honestly, if a professional shop use this method and it will resulted in less labor hours and parts for me then I wouldn't mind at all. I'll definitely invest in an air hammer. Thanks again!
Pro tip for those worried about damaging the bearing while hammering out the broken stud: Leave wheel on ground and all good nuts tight. Drive broken stud back into hub using stiff punch. All the shock is taken within the wheel and tyre. Remove wheel and continue. I just did it with 2 good hammer blows, on a Toyota.
Brilliant Eric. I'm an IT guy who does my own car stuff in the backyard and garage, and everywhere I can access without aggravating others. ;) Your methods are spot on. They are great for guys(and girls) who work on their own cars, and for pro's as well. A whole world of making my own tools has opened up to me by watching your videos. Keep up the good work mate(I'm from down under) :D
people actually getting mad by this method, i did this to my nissan like 4 yrs ago, and the wheel hasn't had any trouble :), Good job Eric save the customer some money
I am sorry that so many people watch a free video that thinks outside the box, and all they can do is bitch and complain. I really like the fact that you do very detailed videos, with decent takes and closeups, and that you explain all the pros and cons as you did on this one. My only suggestion would be to throw the studs in the freezer after grinding them down. If you freeze them before insertion, they will go in a lot easier. You have saved my butt on several occasions already. Please keep doing these videos!
Yeah freezing the stud that's a good idea. As I mentioned before I think Eric said some may not agree with grinding that flat onto the back of the stud I've even seen studs in a car that were like that I don't know if it was factory or or they made it aftermarket like that for that reason but that studs not going anywhere with a little bit of that flat ground off what the heck?
I’m sure most people know this but use washers to take up the space in the stud 3 washers or more if you want put the lug nut tighten it by hand or impact it’s up to you the lug nut will bottom out on the washers and then draw the stud in once it’s all the way in the lug nut will stop spinning zap it off take the washers and do the same process until finished out the rims back on tighten torque and good to go if you don’t have washers you can use a nut to act as washer but I suggest washers since they are flat
I found using a few flat washers and your lug nut tighten the nut against the flat washer pulling in stud flush. I have used this with a great deal of success never a failure.
Like Eric said, it's one way to do it. It's one option. And I believe that option has it's place. Anyone with any mechanical sense knows that this is not a structural weakness that endangers anybody or anything. We live in a real world with real considerations that need to be made. If someone has an old car that they need in order to stay employed and can't afford to replace the wheel bearing too, then this method is a blessing and saves the day. So why not? Those that say it's bad engineering need to get off their "high standards horse" and develop some consideration for their fellow man. We don't live in a perfect world. This option is perfectly viable and can be very beneficial to someone in need. In no way can anyone rightly say that this method is too dangerous or risky. It just ain't so! Now you may not want to do this on a new car, or to just save a rich guy some money, but it certainly has a place among the viable options for this kind of repair. It just plain cold hearted to ignore somebody's car repair dilemma for some irrelevant "high standards" crap. THAT'S what's stupid!
@ MandrewP On the other hand, there are better ways of dealing with this sort of thing. For instance, you can get an entire hub/knuckle assembly from a self service salvage yard quite cheaply and just swap the whole thing out. Yes, you have to take the time to go to the junkyard. But this is pretty simple for a DIYer. And the knuckle swap can be done fairly quickly.
Thankfully I've not had to deal with engineering this bad regarding wheel studs. But once the splines are aligned and it's close to being fully seated, I just torque it down when I put the wheel on. Stay Dirty & Studly! 😄
You were going good until you beat it in there. It is possible while not damaging the stud at all. I do it by completely cutting out the piece as you did, then with a grinding stone I grind the surface of the knuckle back a tiny bit where the loose stud bumps it. You don't need much off, you just soften the sharp edge and the stud will fit straight in there. :)
My mom had her car inspected and the mechanic forgot to tighten the lug nuts on the one tire after rotation. The car was making a strange noise 2 days later after she drove a 20 mile trip and back. I jacked the car up. The tire was wobbly, so I took it off, and two lug nuts fell out; both broken off. This method looks great to me. Thanks for the video.
I changed 2 lugs on my sequoia, I didn't have to cut anything to get access. That said when I put the lug in I froze it in my chest freezer for a week. I am sure a day would do the same thing. I cleaned up the hub a bit and the lug slid in with some washers and a lug nut. took almost no effort. I will say that I tried it another time w/o freezing it, I got it but it was much, much harder. I am often amazed how much steal shrinks at -20f, which is what my chest freezer is at. I guess if you really wanted you could use dry ice to get even lower, but that is $$$. I have used dry ice to get transmission bearings into place but I wouldn't waste the money on lugs.
Issue is the length not fit! No room to remove insert unlike other manufacturers that put at least one hole so that you can pound it out and easily put in the new one!!!
I loved the method of driving the stud with the impact hammer! Never though of doing that - although the "hammer head?" driving bit never seems to be included with harbor freight tools only the chisel bits. Have rarely replaced studs and have never had to trim the dust cover (just bent it) but THANK YOU for showing a car where that is necessary AND where the head of the stud needed to be clipped to get it installed. There is 5 studs on the wheel no way shaving the head will ever matter - but if it matters then take the wheel off and risk replacing the bearings - it's the mechanics choice :-). Finally, I have always used the lug nut to install the studs: 1. Grease or anti-seize the vertical grooves 2. hammer the back to get things started 3. power on with the air gun as you hammer the back of the stud to "help it" into the hole. However, I never liked doing this method because of the strain it puts on the lug nut & the new stud. Now I have a new and better way to mount the stud and I still thing greasing the vertical grooves helps with the install even with your method - THANKS!!
for those afraid to try this have no fear, last night I spent 3 hours trying to thread that lug stud past the heat shield of my 2014 CRV. afraid to cut that heat shield because it is a newer vehicle I decided to bite the bullet and take it to the dealership to do it the right way. Long story short, guess how Honda dealerships do it? THEY CUT THE HEAT SHIELD AND FLATTEN THE HEAD ON THE STUD!!!! WELL DONE ERIC I'LL NEVER DOUBT YOU AGAIN!!!!
In CT, the state police have oversight on repair practices such as you describe. Give your authorities a call and you might find that dealership more than willing to redo the mess they left you with. PS Two wrongs will never make a right. Slash and dash repairs have no place in amateur or professional repair practices. If you can't do a job right, don't do it at all. If this comment is thought to be hating, so be it.
Thanks for the video. After watching it, I was expecting the worst on my 2010 Honda civic. Luckily, they designed it with a convenient hole in the shield to pop the old one out and put the new one in without having to grind or cut anything.
I put a stud on a car for the first time today. I used a lug nut to draw the stud back in but I put several washers between the lug and hub down the stud. that did the trick to keep the stud from spinning too much while I turned it with a big boy ratchet. It was an 09 Hyundai Sonata and I lucked out with being able to get the angle to slide the stud in from the back with out grinding or cutting anything. But thanks to this video I managed it, so thanks for sharing the easy way!
I think that what you've done here is acceptable. I think that there is plenty of "meat" stud left on the stud head as you stated in the video.I've found that if you don't clean out the hole the stud will usually pull in without spinning using the lugnut method.
It's a repair that I have done before, using the same method that he used. He done good! You don;t want to rebuild the entire hub assembly for a wheel stud!
good video...shortcuts i have used many times...quite a few studs come from the factory with a portion already flat spotted for clearance issues... when drawing a stud in with a lug nut i would recommend lubricating the threads to prevent damaging them with the high load you put on them trying to force them in...
I've seen this method before. I do not like the idea of grinding off any part of a stressed stud's head. While there is not nearly as much lateral load on the wheel hub when compared to other forces, there is still some. While this is not really a big deal and I am 99.9% sure nothing will ever happen to it. I just don't like the idea and I couldn't sleep on it. I appreciated the video though! You have taught me lots so thank you for that!
for people thinking this would not work, you need to understand the mechanics beind it, the part that he did not grind off is trying to be pulled through the hole in the hub, there is so freaking way that is going to happen, the stud will snap before that happens, lug nuts will still have the same clamping force on them as before, nothing is weakened in this process, dont get me wrong i rather do it correctly but if it was my own car or truck, you better beleave i would do this, yes i am a tech like Eric but i work for Gm on diesel's
From my understanding the pull through force that it can take before the end snaps off is limited, and depending on which side is shaved off it can weaken it laterally to that side, but generally speaking the difference is not enough to make a huge difference.
I'm sure the customer would be happier with the bill coming from this method, instead of the cost of paying for remove hub, bearing, and whoever knows what else. I really like your videos mate ;-)
I've done this many times on different vehicles and I guess I been lucky that I never ha to cut anything off. There is always a space to get the old ones out and the new ones in. Note to self stay away from older models Acuras RL.
I'm here because I'm currently doing this job myself. Couldn't believe a broke stud turned into such a huge job. Personally, I wouldn't do it his way, but I get why people do. On my 07' Honda CRV, there is zero room for cutting - the back of the stud is not too far from the bearing housing. It's of course not a removable assembly either. I was able to leave the steering knuckle partially installed, and with the CV joint out, I used a puller/installer on the bearing and hub assembly.
That's a incorrect way of doing it. That way will cause the stud to stretch and fatigue. Using a air hammer as shown, or a press is the only correct way.
You are incorrect. Using a impact can over torque the studs causing them to stretch, crack and ultimately fail. That's why there are torque wrenches, and published torque ratings for bolts. 150,000psi tensile strength sounds like a lot, but it really isn't, and is easily achievable with a quality impact gun.
I got ready to bang my wheel stud out with a hammer until I saw this video. Put it back and grabbed the air hammer. 10 seconds later I was putting in the new stud. Thank you 🙏
THanks for yet another great video Eric! Wish i woulda watched this a few years ago when we did a few studs on my buddy's car. This is the method i will certainly use next time i need to do this. Surprised i didn't think of it earlier. As always, LOVE your vids man. Don't ever stop.
I did somewhat the same on me 06 civic si front end. Bent the shield back in the smaller area and cut the cross threaded studs that was so very nicely messed up by tires plus and grinded the side as you did . Not flat though. Needed an angle to slip it in with the use of a 2lb 🔨.fyi tires plus has lost my any business in the future. It will be the 2nd time they do this to the same car. Thanks Eric. I have worked on a 93 accord and my 8th gen civic because you are one of the people out there which have been able to help me gain the confidence to get dirty and make it happen for myself.
Did the same thing on my 2008 Accord in the front passengers side. I had to grind some more metal between the hub assembly and the dust shield for clearance. 11k Miles later and no issues, and I have taken off that tire a few times since with no issues. This is a cost saver, and don’t worry to much about the metal not being strong enough after tapering the head of the bolt because it’s still better to have that than not to have a lug nut on it anyways. Godbless
Hey Eric. To all the haters that's a $500 car and that's exactly what I would do. So simple and the pop-tin POS dust shield should have had an access point like most do anyway. Great Job and love watching your Video's.
Sometimes, the customer has the money for the full procedure as specified in the manual. Great! Sometimes they have $82 and need their car back on the road to get to work. You going to help them or tell them to fuck off? That's why we do things like this. Different procedures for different situations.
A suggestion that I have, coming from a manufacturing background, with having cut threads a lot, and fixing messed up ones, when ever I had to fix old threads, I would just take a thread die to them and recut the same size thread, that always worked for me, so I do the same with my automotive work and never have any issues after I do that
Dude really knows his shit. Love how fluently he speaks as well. Goes to show he really does know what he’s talking about. If I made this video, I’d be saying “uhmmmm” a lot
Definitely going to use this method on my 2012 sentra. It couldn't be any more unsafe than driving around on 3 studs and I don't have the money to replace bearings and cv axles. Thanks for the vid.
Don't use an impact gun to tighten lugs on a car, you can lightly drive them on but do not impact them tight, use a torque wrench with the manufacturer specification to avoid doing this =)
EricTheCarGuy, Thank you! I have a 2001 acura CL and replaced a stud using this method. Worked! I don't have air tools and it took me a few tries. But i just used a hammer, nail set kit (used to countersink finishing nails), bench grinder, vise grip pliers, rachet, rope to tie caliper, and sockets. The nail set kit worked really well to punch the stud out (I was lucky enough that my stud broke short enough that i could punch it out.). I'd say maybe a punch would work better, but i thought this tool would be useful down the line in household work. Anyways, thanks again.
Changed the brake pads on my 97 Avalon last summer... 2 studs broke after using my impact drill to replace the lug nuts. Damn tire fell off while my wife was driving :( Got new studs on it immediately, lesson learned.
Very heated debates on this video about torquing lug nuts. How hard is it really to pick up a torque wrench? Does it really save you that much time not using one?
WOW! If I were to have only read a transcript of this method, I would have totally thought the steps and explanations was my own work that I filed away in the memory bank, I'm serious. TBCH, that usually means "the easy way......that's actually not easy and unless by sheer luck, it's nearly always better to do it the traditional way"😂. Some folks might not think that's worth a grain of salt, to each their own I say. However, I have to applaud the man for his efforts, persistence(same may call it stubbornness), and eventual success??. As being a like minded person that I am, I couldn't bring myself to do any less. BRAVO to you sir, BRAVO 👏👏👏👏 guys like us I've heard some describe as "just ahead of our time"😁....... Ok you got me, I just made up that last part
Ouch... I love your channel and most repairs shown are valid. I have actually done this repair on my personal cars a few times with no adverse effect. When you used the side of the grinder to make the flat on the lug though I had to cringe. My left tear duct just under my eye still carries a chip of a grinding wheel that exploded doing that exact thing. I was wearing safety glasses too, but when the bolt jumped just a little, I turned my head and when the explosion occurred, the fragment ricocheted off the bottom edge of the glasses and imbedded itself just under my eye. It looked like I had lost a bar room brawl for weeks. I still use the same method to this day, but wear a full face shield. A caution at this time in the video is warranted I think...
A mechanic replaced a stud on my moms rear wheel during a more complicated job and apparently screwed up real bad. Some time later she tells me her car makes a popping sound sometimes when she's backing up, I couldn't figure it out right away. So some weeks later when I got the chance, I removed the brake drum to change the shoes and hardware and immediately I see there's a broken spring just floating around in the drum and the brake adjuster was all bent to shit. So I'm like what the fuck could have caused this nightmare?!?! I remove the backing springs and the pins are bent all out of whack, and as I'm removing the shoes, half a rusted stud comes tumbling out of the assembly. There you have it! Whoever she took it to to get that work that involved replacing a stud done, they just hammered it back into the drum assembly, was probably too lazy to take it apart and retrieve the old piece, put a new stud in, put the WRONG TYPE OF LUG NUT ON THE CAR and sent it on it's way. I wish she could remember who she took it to cause I'd drill them a new asshole for causing us all this trouble. Do you know how hard it is to get a new brake adjuster for a 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander?!?! Out of sheer luck I found 1, count 'em, ONE Outlander at the junk yard with the back drums laying dug into the ground. I had to pull a jack from another car to lift it a little to get the part out. In all the years she's owned that car I have never come across her car at the yard, it's actually a really well built car and reportedly seems to run forever.
When I have the problem of not able to feed a stud in the hub due to no clearance with the backing plate,I use a hole saw to make a 3/4" hole in the backing plate so the old stud can be removed and the new stud installed. I then take a solid rubber grommet to plug the hole when I'm done.The time would about the same and you have a nice finish result.
I dunno, Eric....seems to me like grinding a notch in the backing plate, grinding down the wheel stud and then still having to deal with boogered-up threads was just as much work as pulling the hub.
You wouldn't even necessarially need bearings, which are not expensive. It would just take more time to remove the knuckle, press everything apart and back together, and get it all torqued right, etc. He could have modified the knuckle/dust guard more effectively and safely, but yeah, this was generally all the wrong way. And jesus, what was honda thinking?
dav3fk I disagree more with re-using press in wheel bearings than I do with this. Plus, if you don't like the idea of grinding down studs, buy cliphead studs. ;) They are made with a flat spot if it makes you feel better. I will say, as long as the customer is told something like "I can do it the dealer way and charge you 2 hours, or I can do it my way and charge you 0.5" I'm fine with it. The stud is still plenty strong, and the backing plate is still secure. As long as the customer pays an according rate I'm good with this. I'd be just fine doing this to my car.
atsernov I could be mis-understanding things..... but if it's like my car, I THINK all you need to do is unbolt the axle nut, and slip the hub off. No need to press out or replace the bearings at all, they're not interferance fit to the spindle, they're held on by the torque of the axle nut, they're just pressed into the hub.... right? Axle nut torque is very important (or the bearings have the wrong preload and eat themselves) and it's very important to use a new nut and cotter pin.... but still... Again, I could just be an idiot about it, or have forgotten the exact contents of this video.
Thanks Eric. This is NEWS I can USE. Worked great on my 2000 CRV. Took about 20 minutes for stud extraction and install. Even my cheap dremel grinder ate right into the hub and gave me enough clearance for the new (ground down) stud, and I only went through two grinding points. Also since I didn't have an air hammer, I put four 1/2" washers on the new stud and tightened up a lug nut against the washers and that pulled the stud into place easy.
What year prelude? Mine is an 89 Si 4ws, and it has two broken studs... What a pain the ass. Replaced two studs on my 81 280zx, took less than a half hour. Fwd SUCKS.
Think if it was my car i'd rather it was done properly even if it ended up costing more. Though of course there are customer who will only care about the price so they end up getting what they are prepared to pay for!
pcmasterfilms that applies to you but not everyone... considering we're comparing to the hypothetical $250 repair bill which i'd assume for you would also be considerably lower
+mtothem1337 first of all, if you had a mechanic do the work. You would never know what was done. Unless you go back and check and for that much. You might as well do it yourself. Second this was an awesome video for a problem stud issue. Thanks again Eric. your videos are awesome
+mtothem1337 I mean the other option is the mechanic telling you that you have to pay for new wheel bearings and wait a few days for them to come in which I'm sure you also wouldn't be happy about. Keep up the great videos Eric!
+mtothem1337 Actually it's often more than a wheel bearing (those are 20$). If you live somewhere there's snow in winter and your car is more than 5 years old, your CV joint will probably be stuck permanently in the hub. At that point you have to replace the bearing, knuckle and CV joint. That 2.50$ stud is now costing you above 1000$.
Hey Eric, I know this is an old video but I have a tip for YOU! if you look at the hub there is a hole that you can line up with each dish shield screw. you just have to rotate the hub to line up to each screw. Bang dust shield removed! That’s what I did on my rsx 😍
Hi Eric, i worked in the trade for 45 years so i know what your up against and how you feel, at the end of the day would the owner want to pay you $300 to do it the other way, prob not, you got the job done with minimal damage, i cant see the stud ever pulling out...i too found it hard pulling through with a nut, air gun seems to do it better, lot of crap sent to you on these comments, maybe they would like to have a go at it...Fred uk.
I don't exactly agree with your methods, but knowing customers, if they understand and agree to what you are doing I cannot fault you for bad service. Also your modifications are solid. And I wholly agree with modifying cars for the better, and I feel it's an oversight to not have a notch to make removing studs easier. TL DR; To each his own!
usdot has a rule on stud design a> you have taking the harding out of the stud by heating on the grinder b> you have cut a 1/3 of the strength away. C> that dust guard is there for a reason. but guess your right make it cheap screw doing it right and screw the threads up in the process
hahahahaha really hahahahah because he took one third to the stud u came to the conclusion that the took one third of the strength sure and the grinder didn't get it that hard to change anything because it needs to get way hotter to affect it and the ventilation shield was not affected because he did not cut the actual shield just one section which does not redirect air to the rotor due to the small size. u could consider it a inert section meaning honda could easily not include that section in the shield period so i don't know where u get ur info
I have a stud installer that is a bearing with a big flat washer. Did all 5 on the side of the road, pre ground studs at home, got my buddy off the side of the road in 30 minutes.. I'm sure its fine because he drove the car another 4 years( 20000 miles easy) but when the car has 240k miles, you just do what you can.
Done this plenty of times, never had a problem...those of you that are complaining he mentioned many times this is ONE way of doing it without having to remove the wheel hub and replacing the wheel bearing, not everybody has the luxury and replacing every at once for a simple stud, this method is not dangerous.
Recr Actually, that isn't true. This probably won't be, but CAN be dangerous. The shoulder on those studs is all that keeps them from pulling through the hub. On 2 studs, it isn't a huge no no, but if you're doing all 5, find another way, because that's when it becomes dangerous.
Never had a problem YET.. removing 25% of the retention part of the nut that holds the wheel on is dangerous..
@@mja9001 I would think that the force is sideways not outwards so I wouldn't think it's that dangerious
I’m grateful for this video today. I changed out a broken lug on my son’s 2008 Honda Fit. I used this method and it worked perfectly. Another guy online removed the entire knuckle and needed a hydraulic press to finish the job. I was done in about 15 minutes. Thanks!
I just replaced studs on a 02 ford explorer, the studs I bought came with the heads shaved on one side. Just as you did. The ones I removed from the factory was the same way, So, I guess your right up there with Ford. Thanks for the video
☺
David Lawhon lol.....Ford certified ehhh
Maybe Ill get lucky then.
"I guess your right up there with Ford"
That is a low bar, my friend.
RedSnakeGT500 b
Wow @ all the people bashing Eric for this... I really think its these kinds of videos that you learn things from.
Factory service manuals don't show you these kinds of things. Thanks Eric!!!
I agree
@@joshuacarrasco6012 yeah, it is just fine grinding the flat into the back of the stud.
I've done it too.
I have even seen factory studs with the flat already machined away.
The man has been completely open and honest so I don’t see any problem. Keep up the good work Eric
Thanks to your tips here, I was able to do this myself and save myself about $300(The tire shops I called all said about $150 per stud!!! That's insane!!! It literally takes longer to take the brakes apart than it does to remove and install a new stud.
Thanks again!!
it's so fucking funny because these mechanics are usually the one who over torque studs and we end up going back to them again for fucking 300$? No thanks, I'll rather do it myself and learn something new.
The dealer quoted me $615.05 because they said the bearing had to be replaced on a 2000 honda odyssey and it's pressed in so the whole knuckle has to come off.
Like eric said, this is the easy way. A lot of people freaking out here. Some people actually look at the cost of repairs, and this way is much less time consuming and cost effective, if the customer so demands it. If he wants the replacement done the normal way, it will be more expensive. Besides, Eric is just putting up a video that youtubers asked for...
Freaking out? Man, someone who talks about work ethics shows a video in which he deliberately breaks one thing to fix another? Really? It's not about weather it works or not, it's about sloppy bodged work. We're waiting for a reapir video made entirely on "zipties", I mean who cares about actually doint it the right way.
provostkhot This is not 'sloppy' or 'botched', the method works and in the right application I have no problem doing it and have never had a problem with this in the many years that I've done it. I think you should focus more on the idiot that cross threaded the lug in the first place rather than demonizing me for fixing it.
EricTheCarGuy hit the nail on the head right there!
Hendrik Derudder yupppppp
@@ericthecarguyhow’s it going eric i have to replace some studs on my car do i need to replace all of them?
I'm lucky I guess, I just replaced a stud on my car and I had enough to get the full length stud back in with no problem. But my grumpy old neighbor did call the cops on me cause of the noose from hammering it in. It was only one stud and the hammering lasted for no more than 5 minutes. Stupid old man.
Wow I'm on day two of hammering my rusted in stud. My neighbor did came by though today.....he offered to help me with any tools he had. Great man 😅 sorry to hear yours is messed up.
Yup! And I'll call um again on ya too. Young whippersnapper
Lol the guy next door always helps with tools or to borrow his jack, sorry bro
I’ve been hammering the new one in for 30 minutes. Feeling bad for my neighbors
You'd think an older gentleman would appreciate someone working on their own car.
well... i think thats is better and stronger than driving with NO stud at all , think is great that eric is honest and he is there trying to save money for his customers , other mechanics would have recomend changing the hub, brake pads , brake caliper,bearing,axle, transmission and maybe the engine for a broken stud!!! ( if you know what i mean with this) What eric just did made the car safer that what it was before.Gracias eric
Just used your tip to replace the two front wheel studs on a 2006 CRV. The hardest part for me was trying to hammer the new stud thru the hub. Gotta check out one of those air hammers from Harbor Freight! Thanks again for the help. You're one of my most trusted resources on RUclips! Keep up the good work!
I have done this and it is a good reasonable method. Even with the missing portion on the back of the stud there is no way you would be able to draw it through the hub before the threads gave out.
or before the hub gave out for that matter.
For that type of vehicle, if it's yours. That's the best way to go. I'm sure owners of similar vehicles appreciate this vid.
"We don't want to mess up the threads that's why we're here" continues to hammer the shit out of the stud as it's going in at an angle.
lol
as a stud myself? i can confirm that chicks love it when you hammer at an angle. :P
its ok they only got booger’d up a little
I was thinking the exact same thing 😂😂😂😂😂
Makes me laugh those who complaint about this method clearly never worked on old used car someone wanted fixed on a budget (which is the type of job 90% of independent garages live off). Its not the type of procedure you do on a brand new Audi, Eric knows it... its something you do on a 1998 Sunfire that someone use as a winter beater. and I'm ready to bet that those stud wont ever go anywhere.
The customer paid for 2 new studs, one of which was broken, and the other one had damage threads. They were then replaced with 2 studs with damaged threads. Plus, he spent time polishing threads and grinding down the studs. He should have just removed the hub.
Aris Oglesby Grinding took about 10s, If you can remove a hub and replace the bearing in that time just go ahead and do it.
But still. At least do it the right fucking way. It takes less time and less effort to do it the right way, than it does this way.
Pierre Gauthier preach
S
When I insert my new wheel stud, I like to throw the stud in the freezer and hit the hub with a heat gun for a few minutes. Those small bits of thermal expansion / contraction make all the difference
Eric, thank you for leaving your videos relatively unedited, its those things that make me chuckle that make your videos just that much better!
Replacement lug studs usually come with a "D" shaped base for easy installation. And Eric, if you air chizzel that flap that you cut, you can probably drive that stud home without thread damage. Isuzu used to pay 6 hours io replace the studs on all 4 corners. Those were happy days! ; )
Box truck or light suv?
All the people complaining this is obviously a work around it's clearly obvious that the client/customer probably couldn't afford the extra labor for the bigger job if this method solves it it doesn't hurt anything
Yes, this method works. But honestly, if I was paying a shop to replace a stud on my car and they did this without asking first, I'd find it very unprofessional.
with that kind of hub bearing there's 90% chance you wont be able to remove without damaging the bearing.. as soon as you pull the flange and the bearing race came off that's another $$$ specially on honda,toyota that a freaking big $$$
Oh I agree, just saying that if anyone is getting paid to do this kind of work, they should be upfront with the customer about exactly what they plan to do. It's like going to the dentist to get a cavity filled and they decide to just pull the whole tooth because it's faster/easier/cheaper. In this case, eliminating the risk of damaging the bearing comes at the cost of a cut-up splash shield and a weakened wheel stud (since part of the head gets ground off).
the bearings aren't all that expensive when you get parts through a real parts supplier, and not from a schlep boiz or autobone! lol
this is why you never go in the work bay area
At $100+ an hour for shop time the alternative will cost the customer a couple hundred extra bucks for no real benefit. The more of a pain in the ass a job is the more it costs the customer.
I totally appreciate this video! It is a massive money saver on a Honda fit! What would have taken me $400 at a shop or two days in 17 degree weather, took me about 30 minutes. Thanks again for the video, keep up the good work.
About to do this with my 2012 Honda Fit. I'm so glad to see your comment on this.
@@josephmckinney4816 2008 for me! Doubt I cross threaded the last one, more likely that I over tightened it. Too bad it didn't happen to one of the rear studs, cause the whole hub is super easy to replace.
This works 100% and is much quicker, easier and minimizes risk of damaging something. That being said, I would inform the customer about the costs of taking of the knuckle and doing it properly and hope he would accept, before pulling off this sort of improvisation on his car.
My only concern is ,would it still pass a state safety inspection. My state ( Missouri) still requires inspections.
Can't believe so many people get upset with this method. Nice idea, Eric. He clearly states not everyone may like it, but it is a viable alternative and some of us do work on old cars where what it looks like isn't all that important. Does anyone think some car manufacturers purposely design them this way in order to ramp up the cost and complexity of repairing them? I do. This is what's wrong with the engineering designs on newer cars and manufacturers don't care about the cost to customers, only the bottom line profit$.
Eric great video!! I have been a mechanic for thirteen years I have done this numerous times NEVER had a problem. I wonder if those people who are complaining about your repair know the tensil strength or rockwell rating of a wheel stud look it up it may suprise you! !!
Not picking a fight, but what does Rockwell hardness have to do with it in this case? You're thinking something like if it's hard it'll be less likely to deform under load? But I agree with you that this repair is perfectly acceptable.
People talking smack about this procedure must not realize they sell pre-notched studs, like the one Eric made, for exactly this application. Also, a jamb nut or axel nut makes an excellent washer to put between a lugnut and the hub flange for pulling the stud through... never had one spin in the hub.
Eric, When "pulling" a stud back in, try using a larger nut or stack of flat washers for your old nut to pull against instead of directly against the hub. It helps keep the stud from wanting to twist. Also lubricate the threads and the washers or larger nut contact areas to reduce the friction. It works for me when I cannot get an air hammer to the back of the new studs to drive them in.
The air chisel works too.
What do I do when the washer become stuck on the stud?
There is a tool for installing studs: Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud Installer.
@@ShelleyYbarramust have been too small of a washer. You’ll have to break it off, try heat.
I used the closed end of a 1/2 combination wrench (didn’t have enough washers laying around the garage)
One of the many reason i still drive a 1gen dodge neon.the gap is already there to remove the wheel stud and you dont even have to remove the brake caliper.
Its a good way to do it eric..dont listen to the haters.
That is a horrible reason to justify having a dodge neon.
You pick your car based on how well it caters to wheel stud replacement?
I wouldn't drive a hunk of shit, just to make it easy to replace a part that should seldom need replacing, if ever.
Half the people that thumbs down the video are the same people that wont pay the extra money to do it the proper way. If all mechanics went only buy factory spec,they would all be rich. This is clearly a work around for certain occasions .
Awesome. Thanks Eric. I needed this video cause I had no idea how to replace the stud on my 06 Sonata without removing the wheel assembly, which is quite a chore. Some have commented that if a professional shop did this they would be upset. Honestly, if a professional shop use this method and it will resulted in less labor hours and parts for me then I wouldn't mind at all. I'll definitely invest in an air hammer. Thanks again!
Pro tip for those worried about damaging the bearing while hammering out the broken stud:
Leave wheel on ground and all good nuts tight.
Drive broken stud back into hub using stiff punch. All the shock is taken within the wheel and tyre.
Remove wheel and continue.
I just did it with 2 good hammer blows, on a Toyota.
This is a small, easy fix that helps avoid a lot of time and expense. It's doable for a guy in his driveway. Thank you for showing this.
Brilliant Eric. I'm an IT guy who does my own car stuff in the backyard and garage, and everywhere I can access without aggravating others. ;)
Your methods are spot on. They are great for guys(and girls) who work on their own cars, and for pro's as well. A whole world of making my own tools has opened up to me by watching your videos. Keep up the good work mate(I'm from down under) :D
Eric knows his stuff his advice has been extremely valuable in repairing our Acura CL Captive Rotor and wheel bearings!
This is what I call a rough and ready repair. It is not pretty but it works and the car is fixed quickly.
This is what I call a lazy hack job
people actually getting mad by this method, i did this to my nissan like 4 yrs ago, and the wheel hasn't had any trouble :), Good job Eric save the customer some money
I am sorry that so many people watch a free video that thinks outside the box, and all they can do is bitch and complain. I really like the fact that you do very detailed videos, with decent takes and closeups, and that you explain all the pros and cons as you did on this one.
My only suggestion would be to throw the studs in the freezer after grinding them down. If you freeze them before insertion, they will go in a lot easier.
You have saved my butt on several occasions already. Please keep doing these videos!
Yeah freezing the stud that's a good idea. As I mentioned before I think Eric said some may not agree with grinding that flat onto the back of the stud I've even seen studs in a car that were like that I don't know if it was factory or or they made it aftermarket like that for that reason but that studs not going anywhere with a little bit of that flat ground off what the heck?
I’m sure most people know this but use washers to take up the space in the stud 3 washers or more if you want put the lug nut tighten it by hand or impact it’s up to you the lug nut will bottom out on the washers and then draw the stud in once it’s all the way in the lug nut will stop spinning zap it off take the washers and do the same process until finished out the rims back on tighten torque and good to go if you don’t have washers you can use a nut to act as washer but I suggest washers since they are flat
I found using a few flat washers and your lug nut tighten the nut against the flat washer pulling in stud flush. I have used this with a great deal of success never a failure.
A few? How about one big but strong one? This method sounds good, but would that mean you'd need a longer stud?
Good idea ill try that i have big washers that will work perfect! I aint buying no power hammer tool ;)
I've done it this way (with washers), works for me.
I don't like how it's done but it works plus it saves money and it really doesn't harm the vehicle's steering. Great job sir
Like Eric said, it's one way to do it. It's one option. And I believe that option has it's place. Anyone with any mechanical sense knows that this is not a structural weakness that endangers anybody or anything. We live in a real world with real considerations that need to be made. If someone has an old car that they need in order to stay employed and can't afford to replace the wheel bearing too, then this method is a blessing and saves the day. So why not?
Those that say it's bad engineering need to get off their "high standards horse" and develop some consideration for their fellow man. We don't live in a perfect world. This option is perfectly viable and can be very beneficial to someone in need. In no way can anyone rightly say that this method is too dangerous or risky. It just ain't so!
Now you may not want to do this on a new car, or to just save a rich guy some money, but it certainly has a place among the viable options for this kind of repair. It just plain cold hearted to ignore somebody's car repair dilemma for some irrelevant "high standards" crap. THAT'S what's stupid!
Facts
@ MandrewP On the other hand, there are better ways of dealing with this sort of thing. For instance, you can get an entire hub/knuckle assembly from a self service salvage yard quite cheaply and just swap the whole thing out. Yes, you have to take the time to go to the junkyard. But this is pretty simple for a DIYer. And the knuckle swap can be done fairly quickly.
Thankfully I've not had to deal with engineering this bad regarding wheel studs. But once the splines are aligned and it's close to being fully seated, I just torque it down when I put the wheel on.
Stay Dirty & Studly! 😄
You were going good until you beat it in there. It is possible while not damaging the stud at all.
I do it by completely cutting out the piece as you did, then with a grinding stone I grind the surface of the knuckle back a tiny bit where the loose stud bumps it. You don't need much off, you just soften the sharp edge and the stud will fit straight in there. :)
Nice tip! Thanks!
My mom had her car inspected and the mechanic forgot to tighten the lug nuts on the one tire after rotation. The car was making a strange noise 2 days later after she drove a 20 mile trip and back. I jacked the car up. The tire was wobbly, so I took it off, and two lug nuts fell out; both broken off. This method looks great to me. Thanks for the video.
The studs fell off with the lug nuts after I took the hub cap off. I forgot to mention that. It's late here.
I changed 2 lugs on my sequoia, I didn't have to cut anything to get access. That said when I put the lug in I froze it in my chest freezer for a week. I am sure a day would do the same thing. I cleaned up the hub a bit and the lug slid in with some washers and a lug nut. took almost no effort. I will say that I tried it another time w/o freezing it, I got it but it was much, much harder. I am often amazed how much steal shrinks at -20f, which is what my chest freezer is at. I guess if you really wanted you could use dry ice to get even lower, but that is $$$. I have used dry ice to get transmission bearings into place but I wouldn't waste the money on lugs.
Issue is the length not fit! No room to remove insert unlike other manufacturers that put at least one hole so that you can pound it out and easily put in the new one!!!
I loved the method of driving the stud with the impact hammer! Never though of doing that - although the "hammer head?" driving bit never seems to be included with harbor freight tools only the chisel bits. Have rarely replaced studs and have never had to trim the dust cover (just bent it) but THANK YOU for showing a car where that is necessary AND where the head of the stud needed to be clipped to get it installed.
There is 5 studs on the wheel no way shaving the head will ever matter - but if it matters then take the wheel off and risk replacing the bearings - it's the mechanics choice :-).
Finally, I have always used the lug nut to install the studs: 1. Grease or anti-seize the vertical grooves 2. hammer the back to get things started 3. power on with the air gun as you hammer the back of the stud to "help it" into the hole. However, I never liked doing this method because of the strain it puts on the lug nut & the new stud. Now I have a new and better way to mount the stud and I still thing greasing the vertical grooves helps with the install even with your method - THANKS!!
Take a angle grinder and bevel that hub guard more. Less likely to damage the threads on the new studs. Nice shortcut I like it a lot!
for those afraid to try this have no fear, last night I spent 3 hours trying to thread that lug stud past the heat shield of my 2014 CRV. afraid to cut that heat shield because it is a newer vehicle I decided to bite the bullet and take it to the dealership to do it the right way. Long story short, guess how Honda dealerships do it? THEY CUT THE HEAT SHIELD AND FLATTEN THE HEAD ON THE STUD!!!! WELL DONE ERIC I'LL NEVER DOUBT YOU AGAIN!!!!
In CT, the state police have oversight on repair practices such as you describe. Give your authorities a call and you might find that dealership more than willing to redo the mess they left you with. PS Two wrongs will never make a right. Slash and dash repairs have no place in amateur or professional repair practices. If you can't do a job right, don't do it at all. If this comment is thought to be hating, so be it.
@@momadnomad9018 It'll just be 5x the price for essentially the same job.
That's great! I wouldn't do this on my nice car, but I just snapped a stud on my winter beater, time to bust out the grinder. Thanks bro
You can call him a cheap lazy hack or whatever you want, but it works, and that's what counts. As always, great video Eric.
Thanks for the video. After watching it, I was expecting the worst on my 2010 Honda civic. Luckily, they designed it with a convenient hole in the shield to pop the old one out and put the new one in without having to grind or cut anything.
I love Honda, so practical
I put a stud on a car for the first time today. I used a lug nut to draw the stud back in but I put several washers between the lug and hub down the stud. that did the trick to keep the stud from spinning too much while I turned it with a big boy ratchet. It was an 09 Hyundai Sonata and I lucked out with being able to get the angle to slide the stud in from the back with out grinding or cutting anything. But thanks to this video I managed it, so thanks for sharing the easy way!
I think that what you've done here is acceptable. I think that there is plenty of "meat" stud left on the stud head as you stated in the video.I've found that if you don't clean out the hole the stud will usually pull in without spinning using the lugnut method.
Holy moly! Thanx Eric@ You saved me so much time and money. I heated the hole and froze the bolt. IT WORKED!!THANK THE CAR GOD ERIC!
It's a repair that I have done before, using the same method that he used. He done good! You don;t want to rebuild the entire hub assembly for a wheel stud!
i've done this twice, on a honda accord and subaru forester, both worked great. would not hesitate to do it again, thanks eric.
"You don't want to booger up the threads" proceeds to bang it through the hub
😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣
I would put grease on the threads and hole where stud goes in.. To minimize damage..
At least he owned up to it lol
Lmfao yo
good video...shortcuts i have used many times...quite a few studs come from the factory with a portion already flat spotted for clearance issues...
when drawing a stud in with a lug nut i would recommend lubricating the threads to prevent damaging them with the high load you put on them trying to force them in...
oh my goodness that air hammer is amazing
Yep,💯👍 that's MaC for ya😉
Yes, verry nice
Đirt diger hamberger job not even if it was free sorry
Thanks to Eric of the past. Your old vids are still the best. Ill be getting a thread file out later today. ;)
This doesn't look easy at all
Yeah. Just take off the rotor lmao why are we cutting things
Wait. After watching a second time. I do understand why he did it lol. But no just do it the right way
I've seen this method before. I do not like the idea of grinding off any part of a stressed stud's head. While there is not nearly as much lateral load on the wheel hub when compared to other forces, there is still some. While this is not really a big deal and I am 99.9% sure nothing will ever happen to it. I just don't like the idea and I couldn't sleep on it. I appreciated the video though! You have taught me lots so thank you for that!
for people thinking this would not work, you need to understand the mechanics beind it, the part that he did not grind off is trying to be pulled through the hole in the hub, there is so freaking way that is going to happen, the stud will snap before that happens, lug nuts will still have the same clamping force on them as before, nothing is weakened in this process, dont get me wrong i rather do it correctly but if it was my own car or truck, you better beleave i would do this, yes i am a tech like Eric but i work for Gm on diesel's
there ya go, people shouldnt saying anything hahah
From my understanding the pull through force that it can take before the end snaps off is limited, and depending on which side is shaved off it can weaken it laterally to that side, but generally speaking the difference is not enough to make a huge difference.
I'm sure the customer would be happier with the bill coming from this method, instead of the cost of paying for remove hub, bearing, and whoever knows what else.
I really like your videos mate ;-)
Most mechanics would charge what it cost to do it the right way and laugh all the way to the bank.
I've done this many times on different vehicles and I guess I been lucky that I never ha to cut anything off. There is always a space to get the old ones out and the new ones in. Note to self stay away from older models Acuras RL.
I'm here because I'm currently doing this job myself. Couldn't believe a broke stud turned into such a huge job. Personally, I wouldn't do it his way, but I get why people do. On my 07' Honda CRV, there is zero room for cutting - the back of the stud is not too far from the bearing housing. It's of course not a removable assembly either. I was able to leave the steering knuckle partially installed, and with the CV joint out, I used a puller/installer on the bearing and hub assembly.
To draw the stud in without an air hammer just use the lug nut and and another nut that slides over the stud, but doesn't thread on.
That's a incorrect way of doing it. That way will cause the stud to stretch and fatigue. Using a air hammer as shown, or a press is the only correct way.
An air impact is not incorrect, it's just another method of doing it. And an air hammer is another, neither methods are incorrect.
You are incorrect. Using a impact can over torque the studs causing them to stretch, crack and ultimately fail. That's why there are torque wrenches, and published torque ratings for bolts. 150,000psi tensile strength sounds like a lot, but it really isn't, and is easily achievable with a quality impact gun.
I got ready to bang my wheel stud out with a hammer until I saw this video. Put it back and grabbed the air hammer. 10 seconds later I was putting in the new stud. Thank you 🙏
THanks for yet another great video Eric! Wish i woulda watched this a few years ago when we did a few studs on my buddy's car. This is the method i will certainly use next time i need to do this. Surprised i didn't think of it earlier. As always, LOVE your vids man. Don't ever stop.
I did somewhat the same on me 06 civic si front end. Bent the shield back in the smaller area and cut the cross threaded studs that was so very nicely messed up by tires plus and grinded the side as you did . Not flat though. Needed an angle to slip it in with the use of a 2lb 🔨.fyi tires plus has lost my any business in the future. It will be the 2nd time they do this to the same car. Thanks Eric. I have worked on a 93 accord and my 8th gen civic because you are one of the people out there which have been able to help me gain the confidence to get dirty and make it happen for myself.
Did the same thing on my 2008 Accord in the front passengers side. I had to grind some more metal between the hub assembly and the dust shield for clearance. 11k Miles later and no issues, and I have taken off that tire a few times since with no issues. This is a cost saver, and don’t worry to much about the metal not being strong enough after tapering the head of the bolt because it’s still better to have that than not to have a lug nut on it anyways. Godbless
Hey Eric. To all the haters that's a $500 car and that's exactly what I would do. So simple and the pop-tin POS dust shield should have had an access point like most do anyway. Great Job and love watching your Video's.
Sometimes, the customer has the money for the full procedure as specified in the manual. Great! Sometimes they have $82 and need their car back on the road to get to work. You going to help them or tell them to fuck off?
That's why we do things like this. Different procedures for different situations.
A suggestion that I have, coming from a manufacturing background, with having cut threads a lot, and fixing messed up ones, when ever I had to fix old threads, I would just take a thread die to them and recut the same size thread, that always worked for me, so I do the same with my automotive work and never have any issues after I do that
Dude really knows his shit. Love how fluently he speaks as well. Goes to show he really does know what he’s talking about. If I made this video, I’d be saying “uhmmmm” a lot
Definitely going to use this method on my 2012 sentra. It couldn't be any more unsafe than driving around on 3 studs and I don't have the money to replace bearings and cv axles. Thanks for the vid.
Don't use an impact gun to tighten lugs on a car, you can lightly drive them on but do not impact them tight, use a torque wrench with the manufacturer specification to avoid doing this =)
EricTheCarGuy,
Thank you! I have a 2001 acura CL and replaced a stud using this method. Worked!
I don't have air tools and it took me a few tries. But i just used a hammer, nail set kit (used to countersink finishing nails), bench grinder, vise grip pliers, rachet, rope to tie caliper, and sockets. The nail set kit worked really well to punch the stud out (I was lucky enough that my stud broke short enough that i could punch it out.). I'd say maybe a punch would work better, but i thought this tool would be useful down the line in household work. Anyways, thanks again.
That was painful to watch.
I agree!
Why?
VALMER LYNN negan the car guy
Changed the brake pads on my 97 Avalon last summer... 2 studs broke after using my impact drill to replace the lug nuts. Damn tire fell off while my wife was driving :( Got new studs on it immediately, lesson learned.
Very heated debates on this video about torquing lug nuts. How hard is it really to pick up a torque wrench? Does it really save you that much time not using one?
Hmm let's see I've never had a problem not torquing my lug nuts.
Same with so many other guys.
what do you say about that? blind luck?
It is pretty hard to pick one up when you don't have one 😅
WOW! If I were to have only read a transcript of this method, I would have totally thought the steps and explanations was my own work that I filed away in the memory bank, I'm serious.
TBCH, that usually means "the easy way......that's actually not easy and unless by sheer luck, it's nearly always better to do it the traditional way"😂.
Some folks might not think that's worth a grain of salt, to each their own I say.
However, I have to applaud the man for his efforts, persistence(same may call it stubbornness), and eventual success??. As being a like minded person that I am, I couldn't bring myself to do any less. BRAVO to you sir, BRAVO 👏👏👏👏 guys like us I've heard some describe as "just ahead of our time"😁....... Ok you got me, I just made up that last part
Can vouch for this method working well, did the exact same thing on my 95 Honda Civic. Worked well and was quick and easy.
Ouch... I love your channel and most repairs shown are valid. I have actually done this repair on my personal cars a few times with no adverse effect. When you used the side of the grinder to make the flat on the lug though I had to cringe. My left tear duct just under my eye still carries a chip of a grinding wheel that exploded doing that exact thing. I was wearing safety glasses too, but when the bolt jumped just a little, I turned my head and when the explosion occurred, the fragment ricocheted off the bottom edge of the glasses and imbedded itself just under my eye. It looked like I had lost a bar room brawl for weeks. I still use the same method to this day, but wear a full face shield. A caution at this time in the video is warranted I think...
A mechanic replaced a stud on my moms rear wheel during a more complicated job and apparently screwed up real bad. Some time later she tells me her car makes a popping sound sometimes when she's backing up, I couldn't figure it out right away. So some weeks later when I got the chance, I removed the brake drum to change the shoes and hardware and immediately I see there's a broken spring just floating around in the drum and the brake adjuster was all bent to shit. So I'm like what the fuck could have caused this nightmare?!?! I remove the backing springs and the pins are bent all out of whack, and as I'm removing the shoes, half a rusted stud comes tumbling out of the assembly. There you have it! Whoever she took it to to get that work that involved replacing a stud done, they just hammered it back into the drum assembly, was probably too lazy to take it apart and retrieve the old piece, put a new stud in, put the WRONG TYPE OF LUG NUT ON THE CAR and sent it on it's way. I wish she could remember who she took it to cause I'd drill them a new asshole for causing us all this trouble. Do you know how hard it is to get a new brake adjuster for a 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander?!?! Out of sheer luck I found 1, count 'em, ONE Outlander at the junk yard with the back drums laying dug into the ground. I had to pull a jack from another car to lift it a little to get the part out. In all the years she's owned that car I have never come across her car at the yard, it's actually a really well built car and reportedly seems to run forever.
people don't understand this method is wrong should not be taught thank God this guys mom didn't get hurt or worst
Very good video. My car is 11 years old and I'm comfortable not spending the extra time and money involved doing it the other way. Thank You
Good shit! This is exactly how i do mine.good to know the world has some smart people left
When I have the problem of not able to feed a stud in the hub due to no clearance with the backing plate,I use a hole saw to make a 3/4" hole in the backing plate so the old stud can be removed and the new stud installed. I then take a solid rubber grommet to plug the hole when I'm done.The time would about the same and you have a nice finish result.
I dunno, Eric....seems to me like grinding a notch in the backing plate, grinding down the wheel stud and then still having to deal with boogered-up threads was just as much work as pulling the hub.
cheaper for customer though, price of 2 studs vs price of wheel bearing & hub assy
You wouldn't even necessarially need bearings, which are not expensive. It would just take more time to remove the knuckle, press everything apart and back together, and get it all torqued right, etc.
He could have modified the knuckle/dust guard more effectively and safely, but yeah, this was generally all the wrong way.
And jesus, what was honda thinking?
Sval Bard
True.
But that's not important for DIY'ers watching how to do this on youtube.
dav3fk I disagree more with re-using press in wheel bearings than I do with this.
Plus, if you don't like the idea of grinding down studs, buy cliphead studs. ;) They are made with a flat spot if it makes you feel better.
I will say, as long as the customer is told something like "I can do it the dealer way and charge you 2 hours, or I can do it my way and charge you 0.5" I'm fine with it. The stud is still plenty strong, and the backing plate is still secure. As long as the customer pays an according rate I'm good with this.
I'd be just fine doing this to my car.
atsernov
I could be mis-understanding things..... but if it's like my car, I THINK all you need to do is unbolt the axle nut, and slip the hub off. No need to press out or replace the bearings at all, they're not interferance fit to the spindle, they're held on by the torque of the axle nut, they're just pressed into the hub.... right?
Axle nut torque is very important (or the bearings have the wrong preload and eat themselves) and it's very important to use a new nut and cotter pin.... but still...
Again, I could just be an idiot about it, or have forgotten the exact contents of this video.
Thanks Eric. This is NEWS I can USE. Worked great on my 2000 CRV. Took about 20 minutes for stud extraction and install. Even my cheap dremel grinder ate right into the hub and gave me enough clearance for the new (ground down) stud, and I only went through two grinding points. Also since I didn't have an air hammer, I put four 1/2" washers on the new stud and tightened up a lug nut against the washers and that pulled the stud into place easy.
great video used it today on a prelude Eric ur the man bro love the videos
What year prelude? Mine is an 89 Si 4ws, and it has two broken studs... What a pain the ass. Replaced two studs on my 81 280zx, took less than a half hour. Fwd SUCKS.
89 honda civic here- and yeah. No way I'm taking the whole assembly off. Thank-you for saving me time and money.
Think if it was my car i'd rather it was done properly even if it ended up costing more. Though of course there are customer who will only care about the price so they end up getting what they are prepared to pay for!
That's easy to say when you're not looking at a 250 dollar repair bill for a lug stud, as compared to 60-80 doing it this way.
xX53preble53Xx
Try about 6 dollars this way lol
pcmasterfilms
you clearly forget about labor costs
SgtPnkks
I have a brain, soo only labor cost is the a half hour of my time.
pcmasterfilms
that applies to you but not everyone... considering we're comparing to the hypothetical $250 repair bill which i'd assume for you would also be considerably lower
Almost all of your videos confirm a shortcut I have taken in the past, and for that I love you. lol
If you do this to your own car to save time, it's allright i suppose, but if a mechanic did this to my car i would probably not be happy about it.
That's fair. Truth is it's done all the time and very seldom there is an issue.
+mtothem1337
first of all, if you had a mechanic do the work. You would never know what was done. Unless you go back and check and for that much. You might as well do it yourself.
Second this was an awesome video for a problem stud issue. Thanks again Eric. your videos are awesome
+mtothem1337 I mean the other option is the mechanic telling you that you have to pay for new wheel bearings and wait a few days for them to come in which I'm sure you also wouldn't be happy about. Keep up the great videos Eric!
***** I would rather have the work done properly even if it cost a bit more.
+mtothem1337 Actually it's often more than a wheel bearing (those are 20$).
If you live somewhere there's snow in winter and your car is more than 5 years old, your CV joint will probably be stuck permanently in the hub.
At that point you have to replace the bearing, knuckle and CV joint.
That 2.50$ stud is now costing you above 1000$.
Hey Eric, I know this is an old video but I have a tip for YOU! if you look at the hub there is a hole that you can line up with each dish shield screw. you just have to rotate the hub to line up to each screw. Bang dust shield removed! That’s what I did on my rsx 😍
If my car had the same thing I wouldn’t be here watching this video. Any actually helpful tips?
Hi Eric, i worked in the trade for 45 years so i know what your up against and how you feel, at the end of the day would the owner want to pay you $300 to do it the other way, prob not, you got the job done with minimal damage, i cant see the stud ever pulling out...i too found it hard pulling through with a nut, air gun seems to do it better, lot of crap sent to you on these comments, maybe they would like to have a go at it...Fred uk.
I don't exactly agree with your methods, but knowing customers, if they understand and agree to what you are doing I cannot fault you for bad service. Also your modifications are solid. And I wholly agree with modifying cars for the better, and I feel it's an oversight to not have a notch to make removing studs easier.
TL DR; To each his own!
A somewhat elegant solution to an obvious design flaw. ;-)
Yes, the automotive engineers f'ed up on that one. What were they thinking? I wouldn't buy a car where the engineering was this ignorant! 😅
usdot has a rule on stud design a> you have taking the harding out of the stud by heating on the grinder b> you have cut a 1/3 of the strength away. C> that dust guard is there for a reason. but guess your right make it cheap screw doing it right and screw the threads up in the process
hahahahaha really hahahahah because he took one third to the stud u came to the conclusion that the took one third of the strength sure and the grinder didn't get it that hard to change anything because it needs to get way hotter to affect it and the ventilation shield was not affected because he did not cut the actual shield just one section which does not redirect air to the rotor due to the small size. u could consider it a inert section meaning honda could easily not include that section in the shield period so i don't know where u get ur info
I liked you using the air hammer, I didn't agree with much else going on though. Good luck to you sir.
I have a stud installer that is a bearing with a big flat washer. Did all 5 on the side of the road, pre ground studs at home, got my buddy off the side of the road in 30 minutes.. I'm sure its fine because he drove the car another 4 years( 20000 miles easy) but when the car has 240k miles, you just do what you can.