Two-Piece Rear Main Seal Installation
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2018
- To learn more about installing the rear main seal and other gaskets and seals, visit Garage Gurus at fmgaragegurus.com.
A leaking rear main seal can lead to severe oil loss that can have a damaging effect on your vehicle. When it's time to replace the two-piece rear main seal, check out this video from Master Technician Mark Isaac of Garage Gurus for the advice you need to complete the job.
Using a Ford big block engine, Mark shows the process for replacing this seal with the crank in and the crank out of the engine. You'll appreciate Mark's helpful tips in this instructive video. Count on Garage Gurus to help you get your vehicle repair done right.
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took a while to find the info i needed. this video gave it to me. THANKS!
MARK!!!! Great video. It's Mike B, I'm going to give you a call. I'm replacing the rear main on the GP.
tips n tricks on the caps seal, thanks
I'm doing this now on a Chrysler 440, engine still in the car. Can I install the two seals flush with the bearing cap and block?
I understand it will seal better when it's offset, it's just a struggle laying on the floor and the bearing cap already in place. I figured I can put some sealer on the ends(?) instead of having to worry about the seal popping out or getting misaligned when I install the cap.
So is the 351c the same as the 351m to do?
They make a wire tool with a ring in one end and a tiny screw in the other end to screw into top seal to extract it and to put the new one in , most of the time they come with 2- piece seals
Hey Gurus I have the Fel Pro rear main seals and the recommend to put some RTV on the end of the seal. Can I use also the Loctite 518. Thanks for Help
I’m having to reinstall the rear main oil seal on my ford 460 which is in my 32 ft R.V I’ve pulled the transmission and had to raise the engine up to make clearance to the rear of the oil pan I then pulled the rear cap ! My question is how would you go about extracting the top seal is there a way to do this ? Also I’ve only been able to take off only the rear cap but haven’t been able to remove the oil pan entirely so I’m not able to loosen the other crank bolts only the rear !
You ever get this figured out?
You don't show where the two black rubber pieces go? They sort of look like a comma in 3-d. What are they and where do they go? There are the 2 halves of seal, 2 plastic sleeves, and 2 blue side rail straight seal pieces. what about the 2 gray rubber pieces that look like commas?
Dude that’s the oil pan gasket if you don’t know where they go you don’t need to be working on an engine
I have a 78 caprice 350 motor im sure the rear main seal is leaking i dont want to pull the motor out of the car to do the seal can i do it in the car ?
Yes you can. However you must. Unbolt the motor mounts and loosen the trans mount, then use an engine crane to lift the assembly high enough to remove the oil pan, then unbolt the rear main cap, remove the half of the seal that's in the cap and use it to push the seal half that's in the block out. Then lube the new seal with clean engine oil on the lip only and push it gently but firmly into the groove of the block until 1/8" is showing above one side. Then install the other half into the main cap living the lip only and making sure the ends of the seal line up perfectly, add a tiny amount of anerobic sealer to the mating
sides of the seal only. Retourque the main cap in steps then put your oil pump and distributor drive back in, use a new oil pan gasket preferably the 1 piece neoprene style and install your oil pan being extra careful not to over torque the bolts. Let the motor back down, and align your motor mounts rebolt them up tight and also your transmission crewmember mount✌
Never loosen all main bolts, oil seal an can be rotated into the block without issues,
Can you elaborate? Im going to tackle this shortly. Ive heard that you can do it without dropping the crank
You must not have dealt with an old seal, they can be very stuck in there behind the crank and the only option is to remove the crank unless you’d like to score the block up
Where you put the sealer on the cap would not keep oil from getting out of the engine. The oil will now follow that straight to the back of the block and still leak
I know what you're saying, but I think where he put the sealer fills the 90 degree "corner" which creates a natural gap where oil can find its way outside the engine.
Didn’t show how to ensure proper crush clearance.
Which anaerobic sealer is that?
The anaerobic sealant we use is LocTite 518.
Garage Gurus
That’s odd...:.loctite 518 is a red and white container while your video shows a permatex anaerobic sealant. But there are 3 different kids of permatex sealants.
@@adventuresoffinnandfarley8858 In the video, we used Permatex 51813. We do also use Loctite 518 as well. They essentially have the same material properties. They are both anaerobic type sealants.
Dodge Dakota 3.9L Magnum is the same .
About to do mine. Did you offset the seal? or use RTV?
@@one_mega_ohm9139 mine was not leaking it was the rocker covers . I pulled my trans my seal was fine
The video talks about the seal installation but never does ?????
you don't know
Bull crab 🦀
The way he put the sealer on the cap just doesn't look right..