How to Replace the Rear Main Seal in a Ford 289 or 302
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 12 янв 2022
- What happens when you go to replace the rear main seal on your Ford 289 or 302 and you find out it's the original Rope Seal?
First, you panic a little. Then, you realize this is doable and you move forward.
Using either a Sneaky Pete or a long wood screw, thread it up inside the old seal and pull it out. You may need to use some leverage, like using a hammer and a piece of wood and pry out the screw. It may sound bad but it works, trust me. :)
Oil Pan: Stock size, 5 qts, part number SUM-G3520B, from Summit Racing
Oil Pan Gasket: One-piece Rubber style, Blue, part number OS13260T, Fel-Pro amzn.to/3OC57CK
Rear Main Seal: Two-piece, rubber style, black, part number BS30136, Fel-Pro amzn.to/3ouq1ta
Oil Filter: Stock size, black, part number M1-301A, Mobil 1 amzn.to/3ON6PS9
Oil: 10W-30, 5 qts, Castrol amzn.to/3PEua9F
The car is a 1966 Mustang Fastback with a factory V8 and C4 transmission.
Shot with GoPro Hero 8 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 17.
Credit for the music in the video:
::::::::::::::::::::
Epidemic Sound
Try it today! www.epidemicsound.com/referra...
::::::::::::::::::::
#Mustang
#1966
#Fastback 
Авто/Мото
I greatly admire your willingness to attempt to fix anything on a car. You are an inspiration to just give it a try in life.
Thanks for the support!
Every time I feel burned out of making videos, I'm going to watch this to get pumped up from the music 🤣🤣🤣
Oh and that sucks with all the broken bolts! This is why I don't quote jobs out!
Awesome, so I have a fan for life?
How would you have repaired that broken bolt?
@@AndyKruseChannel Well for the one in the timing cover, I would probably just build some tac welds on it to the point of being able to grab onto it with a stud remover. Those timing coves are aluminum so your welds will only stick to the broken part of the bolt. As far as the broken ones in the frame rail....well that might also involve my welder and maybe a cutoff wheel. I've never actually broken one of those off (yet). I usually try my best to anticipate these things working on these every day. So I typically try to focus on the feel of the bolts as I remove them and if they feel like they are going to cause a fight, out comes the wd-40 and my propane torch. I'll be watching for that repair video when it comes out.
Thanks for putting all the info of what you ended up using in the description. Keep up the hard work.
You bet!
Mine just started leaking on my 65" Comet and i was thinking i had to pull the whole motor. You definitely just saved me a whole weekend of cursing !! great video.
Awesome, hopefully you won't struggle with the Rope Seal like I did, if you still have one. :)
Hey, a rear main seal video from Andy, is this Deja Vu or what?!? Sorry about those bolt problems, so frustrating. But you always keep your cool. And the worn bearings - that’s what I ran into when I did mine last month. I was so disheartened to see that copper but again you kept your cool! Inspiring! Thanks as usual for another great vid!!!
Thanks for the support!
Thank you my brother from another mother 👏👏👏 min is a 289 from 1965 in a 1964 econoline ford van. My rear main seal went out and sprayed oil all over the exhaust pipes making me look like a smoke bomb from hell. Thank you for this video because I live in the boon docks with nobody to help in any way 👍🏼
Awesome, I'm glad I was able to help. While I don't mention it, all of my videos are done by myself, and this is partially to show how easy it is to work on these cars and car parts without help, if you don't have it. :)
I did it, mine wasn’t easy. It took me three attempts. The first try the top seal wouldn’t budge and I had to put everything back together. Every time I tried on my vehicle the crossmember must be removed to remove the oil pan and the engine has to be supported. It’s a little dangerous and I’m alone. The second attempt I hit it harder with a punch and screwdriver…nothing seemed to be able to break it free. The third and final try actually worked. I used a cut off handle from a milk sampling cup handle from a dairy because it was stainless steel and the correct diameter. I am so happy it worked. Whoever built this engine did not overlap the seals and it was probably stuck from several overheating since 1964. Thank you for motivating me so that I got it done 👍🏼👏👏👏👏
Thank you. A good tutorial. This will help with my Honda B20Z Oil Pan & gasket replacement.
Great to hear!
Great job making the video and tutorial, I didn't think you could replace the rear main rope seal with Felpro 2 piece main seals without dropping the crankshaft. I always used Felpro rear main seals and gaskets when I rebuilt my 289 engine in my 1965 Mustang Fastback, and my Mexican block 302 engine in my 1966 Mustang Fastback, but now I wonder if I may have installed the rear main seal backwards by mistake. The Felpro oil pan gaskets use to be cork, I am glad they changed the material to the new gasket style, looks like it is easier to install.
I would think if you put the rear main seal in backwards you would’ve seen a leak by now. Yeah, I like Felpro’s new oil pan gaskets, easier to work with. 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel l I lost my job in 2009 at Symantec in IT and had to sell my 1966 Mustang Fastback in 2012 that I owned for 26 years to someone named Darryl who moved to Washington State and painted it Blue with White GT 350 stripes, while he was putting in a six speed Tremec T56 Magnum transmission, he sent me pictures of some oil on the clutch, or it could have been the grease I used in the Pilot bearing, I sold it with a Doug Nash 5 speed (Now Richmond Transmission).
Great video , well done .
Thanks!
Thanks for posting this.
You bet!
Another great video. Lighting, camera angles, audio and instructions all excellent. I can't believe how calm you seemed to be when those cross member bolts broke. Maybe you were swearing like a drunk sailor off camera. I know I would have been. Anyway...thanks for making the video and great job as usual. I just might attempt this too.
Thanks!
Yeah, I get the advantage of editing out all the parts that make me either look like a monster or and idiot (most of the time). I was not happy, but I'm glad it wasn't worse. :)
Great Job! Video, editing #1.
Thanks!
great video brother , i have to change my rear seal on my big block Charger and i was worried about it .
Glad it helped!
Great video thanks!
Thanks!
About to do this. Ooof. Been procrastinating. It's hot outside 😂
It's not as intimidating as it may seem. You'll do great!
Very informative video, the pin that caused your leak was originally to hold the old style rope seal in place. Take it out for today’s seals.
Thanks
Great video. Recently replaced this seal on my 289 (1968). Not quite as easy as your experience. Had to loosen all main caps and turn the crank to get the (lubed) seal into place. Not fun!
I had to do the same as you described on my first Mustang (the red one from my old videos). It was super difficult to get that upper seal out, but I eventually got it. I feel you pain on those tough seals.
@Andy Kruse Thank you for this video. I did it
Awesome, this is my favorite part of being on RUclips, when I here that one of my videos was able to help someone with their project. :)
I tore into mine yesterday after watching your videos and reading the forums. Less than 2 hours to take it apart, at least 3 hours to get the upper half of the old rope seal out. It was indeed essential to spin the crank while pulling on a screw t threaded into the seal. I didn’t lube the new upper seal enough and shaved some of the rubber off the backside. It probably would have been fine, but bought a new one and dipped it in STP and filed the sharp edge of the block a little. It slid in smoothly. Another 5 or 6 hours to reassemble but that included cleaning and painting the oil pan. The oil pan has been double gasket-ed at both ends, so I’m curious to see if that warped it enough to cause an issue. Thanks for the great video!
Awesome, it's great to hear people are able to tackle these projects and get it all done! Nice work!
did it leak mate?
How did you spin the crank and pull at the same time?
@@olegkarelov5247 spun and pushed if memory serves. Sorry for the late replies…limited access for kiddos. No leaks!!! Still a tad wet on the front but the rear main and pan looks like it’s 1969:)
@@brandongeddes1008 thank you for your answer! Its such a pain and mess to remove it. I would prefer transmission removal instead of this.
You are very knowledgeable. I am curious how did you learn to repair cars? Did you work with your Dad on cars growing up like many of us ..go to tech school or just self taught? Anyway I am impressed with your know how...keep the great videos going it sure helps us Mustangers!!
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback!
I'm a lot older than I look, so I've got several decades of working experience to pull from. I also like to learn, so I'm constantly reading things and watching videos, which helps build that knowledge base. Some of it is trial and error, and I've had plenty of errors in my life. We learn best from our mistakes. :)
Good video, very helpful. Wondering why you chose to disconnect the idler arm where you did? Wouldn't it be easier to tackle the two bolts holding the bracket instead of the bushing?
Thanks!
You're probably right, it be easier to undo those two bolts on the idler arm instead of the way I did it. I'll keep that in mind next time. :)
Well here I am again. I'm really uncomfortable with the oil pressure that I'm running. The 84 in a cold start and 40 at warm idol is fine. But the 10 psi for every thousand RPM I am doubling. Need to pull the oil pan and see what pump I have. You made disconnecting the idler arm look a lot easier than it was. I had to use a 4 lb 18 inch handle sledge hammer to drive it down like you showed in the video. Hopefully when I pull the Canton 9 quart oil pan there is a crazy high pressure pump in there and I can replace it with a high-volume or just standard pump.
See, it's an opportunity in disguise to do an upgrade. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Honestly I'm assuming that the Canton 9 quart oil pan is running a Melling HV pump because that is the pump that is recommended for the Canton pickup that is used with this pan. I will consider a standard volume pump a upgrade as long as it gets me to 10 lb of pressure for every thousand RPM and 30 at hot idle. The current issue is all the bolts are out of the oil pan and it will not come loose at all. I'm going to try a heat gun because I would hate to bend a 460$ oil pan because it was silicone welded
Another great video!!!
Andy
Love the thrust wheels, can u share where u got them please.
Thx for all the replies
Jim ATL
68 stang coupe
Thanks!
Those specific wheels are 16x7, 0 inch backspacing, model number VN2156765. I would have liked 3.5" or 3.75" b.s. with these wheels, but it wasn't an option when I bought these. I purchase them off eBay.
Andy, great video once again. Just curious, if you already had the transmission off, would it then be easier to get at and change the rear main seal?
Yes, particularly if the original style rope seal was still in there. While it’s not required to have the trans off, it would definitely be easier. If you have the trans off the car and don’t know the status of that seal, I’d replace it for sure. 😁
@@AndyKruseChannel Thank you Andy. I'm in the process of changing the clutch, so will change the seal while I'm at it. You are #1.
These rear main seals are so common to leak on these engines. Hopefully it seals up good for you! Mine is leaking. I may go after it one day... or just watch the oil level 🤣
Is your engine a one-piece or two-piece? Do you know if it's the original seal?
It would make for great content. Get in there!!
Have you ever had leaks on the old-style steel ridged oil pan and the one-piece rubber oil pan gasket?
Nope, no issues. :)
Im new to classics, i have a 63 ford falcon that seems tk be leaking from the back if the engine. How do i know if my rear main will be like yours in the video? Is there a sure way to know or do i just jeed to take the pan off and look?
It's more often then not the rear main seal. It's possible your valve cover gaskets are leaking and the oil is running down the block, but you can find that out pretty quick.
@@AndyKruseChannel okay, thank you so much for the quick response. Have a good day
At what point did you put the clocking lock pin back into the seal bearing?
That pin is ONLY used when someone is putting in the old Rope Seal style. If someone is installing the new rubber seals (like the Felpro unit I installed), that pin is not used, it will damage the seal. I found this out the hard way on my last Mustang. I have a video on that too. :)
Maybe I missed it but do you put the holding pin back after the cap is installed? (The pin the prevents spin)
Good question, no, the pin does not go back in. The pin keeps the rope seal from "walking", but the newer rubber seals don't need to worry about that. In fact, I have another video on my channel where the pin was left in place with the rubber seal. It damaged the seal and continued to leak, you should check it out! :)
i missed that too
Why not run a bead of gasket sealant around the whole surface of both the block and the pan?
Partially because that's not how Ford specifies how to do (nor anyone for that matter), and partially because when the pan gasket is installed correctly, the extra sealant is not needed. I guess a guy could do that, but it will make for extra work for the next guy to clean up the next time the gasket needs to be replaced. :)
Hey Randy, question. I notice your fuel pump doesn't have a filter on it. Is that because you use a separate fuel filter? I've seen a few people do this now. I need to replace my fuel filter, so I'm looking for the best option. Can you give me a part recommendation? I have a 65 GT 289 A code and I already have another inline filter installed before the fuel pump. Thanks.
I just have the simple inline unit in front of the carburetor. When I upgraded the hard line from the pump to the carb, I replaced the filter with an Edlebrock unit, part number 8131.
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks for the reply. Sorry, my message was confusing. What I'm trying to figure out is what fuel pump you use. I notice it doesn't have a canister or filter at the bottom and I've seen others do that, but when I search for replacement fuel pumps, all I can find are the OEM style ones with a canister under them. Can you tell me what kind of fuel pump you have?
@@bradreimer3453 Unfortunately I do no know what unit it is, it was on the car when I bought it. However, when I look online at my local auto parts stores (like Napa or O'Reillys), they sell what looks like the same exact unit as what I have on the car. I do see that I can buy a pump with the filter cannister on it (like what you're describing) but I am not finding any issue with getting the same thing already on the car. O'Reilly has a Delphi Automotive pump, part number MF0065. Napa has several, but the one at the top of the page is a Napa brand, part number NNP B0110P. Hope that helps! :)
Turns out my 65 has a 302 from '91. I'm thinking it's a one piece seal. What forums do you go to for tips on these things?
I have used VMF for a lot of research and info.
I believe the one-piece seal started in 1983 (or around there) so if your block is from '91, you're correct about it being a one-piece. Unfortunately, you'll need to pull the Trans to get after that seal.
Did you put the pin back in the end cap
No, that pin is only for the rope-seal style of seal. 🙂
These engines leak like a sieve! I just built my motor and its already leaking from the rear main seal. Ugh, looks like I'll have to take it apart someday to fix it.
They say if it's leaking, it's got oil!
First 10 seconds in the vid and I was like, yep looks exactly like my leak 🥴
What about the rest of the video? Does it still look like your leak?
I always thought u had to pull the transmission to change this, I haven't pulled it apart yet but I may since now I know I can do it without have to take the trans out.
But where your oil leaks are, and where it's dripping down is exactly the same as mine.
@@RW-zh7kl If you have a two-piece rear main seal (common on motors up to the early 80s), you do not need to pull the transmission. If you have a one piece rear main seal, transmission has to come out. :)
How long do you have to wait after you put gasket maker on the main cap and on the oil pan where it’s uneven before installing?
Can it be installed right away or does the gasket maker have to cure a bit?
I let it cure for a bit, but supposedly you can drive these within an hour of the work, but that's what I was told from those old-school mechanics. I don't know if it was driven by experience or getting the cars out of the garage to get the next car in. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel oh okay I figured it had to wait a bit. Approximately how long do you think? I’m currently doing this exact process on my 70 mustang 302.
@@dieselburner4461 To be safe, I let it sit over night, but that's because I was in no hurry. If you needed to drive it sooner, 2+ hours is as short as I'm comfortable with, but other things begin to play a role like temperature, humidity, and how much you applied. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you so much. I appreciate the help. Will continue the job tonight
Why this pan and not the one you used on the other 66?
Summit Racing had a sale on this pan (generic pan, no-name), so I purchased it over the Scott Drake pan I used on my previous '66. That was a mistake. The indentation on the saddle of the front of the pan wasn't in the right place and it caused oil to leak out the front. At first I thought I had done something wrong with the install, but I later found out it was the pan. I have since gone back and replaced the oil pan with the same pan (same model number) I had on my previous '66. I didn't bother to make a video because I wasn't sure about everything until later down the road when the new pan was not leaking. So, I'm glad that my procedures are still good for doing the work, but I didn't have all the info until several weeks later when I noticed the new pan was doing the job. You'll notice a blue oil pan on later videos and not that black one from this video. :)
Didn't you change your seal a year ago with a 2 piece seal. Why does it have a rope seal now?
That was a different car, my '66 Coupe. I have since sold that car and now I have a '66 Fastback, which this video is for. :)
Andy, for the idle arm. Only the one pin and bolt you shown needs removed and pulled pulled down ?
Got it, thanks! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel is that a yes?
@@NightOwl444 Haha, yes. Sorry, I was thinking you were making a statement, not a question. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel 😆 no problem . Thanks . With all the comments you prob get it, I’m sure it takes time to respond to most. Your advice is always appreciated. Happy new year.
@@AndyKruseChannelAndy, man the idler arm is a challenge, down about 3” but won’t pop off , any advice? Thanks sir
You didn’t say how you fixed the broken oil pan bolt? Will that be a different video?
Drill and tapped. It wasn't as perfect as I would have liked, but I'm planning to replace the Timing Cover anyways, so it didn't really matter.
I find it hard to justify to record some of the adventures I have as the only value comes a Vlog style video. While people are looking for entertainment more that they're looking for How-To videos, I don't have the time or even the interesting life to do Vlog stuff and keep my day job. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel No worries. It’s just that you didn’t mention the resolution in the video.
Is it the same with a ford 400L ?
Sorry Boss, I don't know that. I think the 400L motors were in the 70's and Ford went to a one piece seal on in the 80's, but I don't know if any of that applies to the 400. :)
do the new gaskets not need that pin to hold it in place?
Correct, the new seals are designed to not need that pin. In fact, I accidentally left it in on my last car (I made a video about it) and it ruined the seal, forcing me to have to replace it. I wasn't going to make that same mistake on this car. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel "the new seals are designed to not need that pin..." YOU LEFT IT OUT AND 'RUINED' THE SEAL? Sorry confused, so no pin on new seal or pin? thanks
@@duanepage On my previous Mustang I left the pin in the bearing cap and it ruined my seal, forcing me to redo it. On this car (this video), the pin was still in the bearing cap because it still had the old rope style seal, which needs the pin to keep the seal from moving. If someone were to replace the rear main seal with the newer urethane style, that pin in the bearing cap needs to be removed. 😀
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks very much - I enjoyed the video too.
How to fix a leaking 302, pull out of the car SOAK the entire engine and epoxy all the way up to the top of the carburetor and then it MIGHT NOT leak because the oil pan rusted through in the rear main seal and the front seals and the valve cover gaskets week like a Harley-Davidson, like all four of mine did.
Tempting, I may go that route next time. :)
👌🏼👍🏻
👍
Did it ever leak again?
Nope, the urethane seal used these days is far superior to that old rope seal they used to use. 😁
@@AndyKruseChannel I noticed you made 2 videos on the same subject, a few months apart. Was that because the seal went in backwards?
@@gregbrown5488 Nope, two different cars. I did this video on my '66 Coupe, then when I got my '66 Fastback, I had to do it to that car too. I put a lot of the same parts on my Fastback that I have on my coupe, plus the paint scheme is the same, so it can be confusing and look like I repeating the work on the same car. :)
4.6 V8 08 year modle
Sorry Boss, I don't understand what you're asking. :)
Hey man doing teh same job, my bearing on the main cap looks copper with minor scar marks on it like yours, would you say its concerning? I know the engine may need rebuilt soon but im wondering how concerned I should be. It looks almost identical to yours.
If the engine isnt making noise yet, do I atleast have some time?
My engine wasn't making any noise to indicate the bearing were on their way out. But once I looked at them, I knew I was on borrowed time. At the time I made this video, I knew that I would be getting a built engine down the road, so I chose to roll the dice. My engine lasted until I was able to pull it for the new one. But, I also chose to take it easy on this engine just so it would last until the new one was ready. Maybe I got lucky, maybe I had another 15k miles before it would have been an issue.
In your case, you've got the indicators that your bearings are on their way out. The easy you are on the engine, the longer you can go until you replace those bearings. However, the longer you go, to higher the risk you can damage the rest of the engine. Low oil pressure will be one of the first indicators that she's about done. My oil pressure was in the teens and sometimes single digits, so that was a bigger "heads up" my engine was about done.
Good luck! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel yeah mines about there too. Little to no psi when hot. Limp her thru the winter and I’ll replace it thanks man