How to replace a rear main seal in your Ford in-line 6 cylinder engine - And where to get them!

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  • Опубликовано: 6 авг 2024
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    Alf's Mustang Garage is not responsible for any mechanical or technical error that you may encounter when working on your own car. You are responsible for your own quality control and your own proper repairs.
    Today at Alf's Mustang garage we demonstrate how to replace your rear main seal in a classic Ford in-line 6 engine. We demonstrate how to remove a molded seal AND an old rope seal. We had 6 cylinder cars at the same time. One had a molded seal, one had a rope seal. I filmed the removal of both and then how to install the replacement. Its hard finding the correct seal because Fel-Pro has discontinued their seals for this engine. So you should get them from Olson's Gaskets who is currently making them and they work perfectly! See link below to their website. Special thanks to Andy Kruse @#kruseview
    www.olsonsgaskets.com/
    0:00 Intro
    2:05 Oil Pan Removal
    7:00 Rear Main Cap Removal
    8:12 Molded Seal Removal
    12:11 Rope Seal Removal
    18:27 Main Cap Prep & Install
    24:47 Upper Seal Install
    28:05 Main Cap Install
    30:06 Oil Pan Install
    33:08 Engine Start up
    7:27 Wiring
    14:30 Installation
    17:26 More Wring
    20:08 Operation Test
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Комментарии • 60

  • @studiobarro8917
    @studiobarro8917 27 дней назад +1

    This video helped me out a lot. Unfortunately, I had an extra couple of steps. I have a 61 falcon ranchero with a 200ci straight six. Those that are doing this for the Ranchero. 1. Loosen Sway Bar 2. Hoist engine slightly(with engine support bar- $80 at harbor frieght) to bolts that connect to the center bar, frame, and f engine mounts. 3. Remove center drag link on the passenger side. This is the most brutal step as ball forks and pitman tools dont work in that tight right angle squeeze that connects to the tie rod. I had to remove the tie rod(using ball fork tool) end that connects to the center drag link first, then give it a couple of whacks with a mallet to release the passenger side ball joint on the center drag link. Once that last third bar was dropped, I was finally able to remove the oil pan.

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  21 день назад +1

      Oh wow! Thanks for sharing for those of us working on the Ranchero!

  • @docaylsw
    @docaylsw 4 месяца назад

    The last time I did this on my 72 Ford F250, I used a wooden dowel to push the seal out. Also, once it starts moving, a flexible pick-up tool might be used to push it on through, assuming it want's to come apart.

  • @AndyKruseChannel
    @AndyKruseChannel Год назад +3

    Dude, thanks for the shout out!!

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  Год назад +2

      You're very welcome! Your videos help me too. I had to watch your rear main seal video again because I've actually never had the opportunity to remove a rope seal. I found that you didn't film it 🤣 but you did explain it which gave me the idea for the screw extraction method so i appreciate all that you do!

    • @AndyKruseChannel
      @AndyKruseChannel Год назад +2

      @@AlfsMustangGarage Yeah, I wish I did film it, but I didn't want that whole part of the video to be bleeps.

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  Год назад +2

      🤣🤣🤣

  • @stubby1122
    @stubby1122 Год назад +1

    Thanks for the demonstration and info on where we can acquire a seal set.

  • @jeffkesten
    @jeffkesten Год назад +1

    Was debating between this and pulling the engine. Thanks for the detailed video, I think I'll be attempting it this way now. Also appreciate the seal replacement source.

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  Год назад +1

      Oh ya you're very welcome. Seems to be a little less work than pulling the engine. Glad I could help!

  • @classicstangbrn8964
    @classicstangbrn8964 Год назад

    I paint the block surface under the cap with the thinnest layer of gasket sealer.

  • @haroldsmith6451
    @haroldsmith6451 Год назад +2

    Great video!! Love the content!!

  • @jlguler1
    @jlguler1 5 месяцев назад +1

    Great video, thank you!!

  • @96corvette
    @96corvette Год назад +4

    Awesome video

  • @hillbillyfranks
    @hillbillyfranks Год назад +1

    Good job on that's changing Rear main seal Just subscribe to you Enjoy your video I'll be watching more Have a good day

  • @brentsmith2560
    @brentsmith2560 Год назад +1

    I just got a set of seals in from Olson's Maybe I'll be able to get the thing back together soon

  • @lynnh7694
    @lynnh7694 Год назад +1

    Perfect content for the Take the Pledge crowd.

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  Год назад

      Thanks, I think that means take the pledge and buy your seals from Olson's Gaskets?

    • @lynnh7694
      @lynnh7694 Год назад +1

      @@AlfsMustangGarage "Take the pledge" is the marketing slogan for the ford 67 Mustang. Lol

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  Год назад +2

      🤣 oh my gosh! I guess I should know that. Well now I do, thanks for today's lesson!

    • @lynnh7694
      @lynnh7694 Год назад +1

      @@AlfsMustangGarage I was researching my 67 and that was some of the information that came my way. Also, that is how I found your channel and I'm glad it did pop up on my search. Have a great weekend!

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  Год назад +2

      Oh awesome! Thanks, you as well.

  • @Ancestralfolk
    @Ancestralfolk 3 месяца назад

    Did you use some kind of sealant to stick the gasket to the block? Super glue maybe? Lol

  • @blizzy5667
    @blizzy5667 Месяц назад

    Is it the same method to install a rope style rear main seal because for my gmc pickup it has a rope style and they only sell the rope style rear main for it. Would I just lube it in oil and slide it in?

  • @agentfox9554
    @agentfox9554 3 месяца назад

    You soaked the upper seal in engine oil. Some people told me not to bring oil to the back side of the seal, to prevent sliding in the groove. Only oil to the inner side. Did you never had problems working your way?

  • @RaysLaughsAndLyrics
    @RaysLaughsAndLyrics Год назад +1

    Great job. Try using a brass punch on rubber seal and brass screw on the rope seal to remove. Much Much less chance of scoring crank. My two cents.

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  Год назад +2

      I agree! Brass punches are much safer! I should have mentioned that in the video.

  • @carlodonnell146
    @carlodonnell146 10 месяцев назад

    I don't know yet if it is going to work well, but I ordered a tool from Amazon that pulls out the rear seal....I am going to be replacing the bearings in my v8 dodge ram sometime soon and I'll try the tool first and see if it works well, if not Ill have to use the hammer/punch method like you are using.

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  10 месяцев назад +1

      Umm what year is your dodge ram? It has a two piece rear main like this?

  • @robertwilliams8010
    @robertwilliams8010 Год назад +1

    Great video! Does the directional knurling on the end of the crank cause any problems with the rubber type hard seals?

  • @rudycelestino4299
    @rudycelestino4299 Год назад

    Hello can you install a dip stick on a timing cover with out taking it off the engine

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  Год назад +1

      6 cylinder engines have their dip sticks on the engine blocks.

  • @rpkking922
    @rpkking922 Год назад

    will this work on 59 ford galaxy v8 332 motor?

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  Год назад +1

      I would say probably not but you could call Olson's Gaskets and see if they make the correct seal.

  • @BrandyKadous
    @BrandyKadous 2 месяца назад +1

    What happens if that small pin on the lower bearing is not removed and you use a hard seal

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  2 месяца назад +1

      Then it destroys your new seal and you've got a good leak.

    • @BrandyKadous
      @BrandyKadous 2 месяца назад

      Just trying to understand, so does it deforms the seal so oil can leak and doesn’t sit completely in the bearing cradle?

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  2 месяца назад

      @BrandyKadous correct

  • @stevemartin6044
    @stevemartin6044 Год назад +1

    I just recently purchased a felpro BS 30136 rear main seal. I didn't have trouble finding it. Is the 1965 200 different? Thanks for the video!

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  Год назад +1

      It's been out of production for a couple years. Either they started it back up or you lucked out.

    • @stevemartin6044
      @stevemartin6044 Год назад

      @@AlfsMustangGarage both versions currently listed as in stock at all NPD locations.

    • @stevemartin6044
      @stevemartin6044 Год назад

      So, I'd guess they restarted production

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  Год назад +2

      Well there ya go. Has been out of stock everywhere for the past 2 years

    • @rnott5768
      @rnott5768 Месяц назад

      FEL-PRO BS30135 is the 200 six seal.

  • @damienf777
    @damienf777 Год назад +1

    What is the book that you're using for reference?

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  Год назад +2

      It's called Motor's auto repair manual service trade edition from 1969.

  • @Craspan
    @Craspan Год назад +1

    👍

  • @donnyboy9505
    @donnyboy9505 Год назад +1

    I have a leaky seal and was told by many mechanic’s…the engine had to be removed to replace the seals…amazing video…

    • @AlfsMustangGarage
      @AlfsMustangGarage  Год назад +1

      Oh wow. Well it's hard to find people who are good with old cars nowadays.

    • @stubby1122
      @stubby1122 Год назад +1

      @@AlfsMustangGarage Or he'll get charged for an engine pull and fix while only doing a fix. Hmmmmm!!!

    • @terryshotts6604
      @terryshotts6604 2 месяца назад +1

      I'm not a Mustang guy but have an early round body Falcon w/a 6. I don't think there is too many things you can't do/fix with the engine in the car. I've removed the crank, replaced the main & rod bearings, fnt & rear seals. With the crank in place on a 200 I'm replacing main & rod bearings, oil pump, timing chain and sprockets. The only thing that comes to mind is the camshaft, I don't think it will clear the rad support. Best of luck w/ your Mustang!