Yep that engine has seen better days, it’s tired. I can tell you that at least the driver side head has been off because it has a 302 C8 part number meaning it’s a 1968 head so that might explain why that head gasket looks different. The passenger side head had a 289 C6 part number-1966. Great content bud, can’t wait to see what you do with it, I’d leave it a 289 just because they’re getting rarer and they run great. Can’t wait to see the car when it’s done. Keep up the great work man!
@@gulfcoastaero8048 yeah I got a set of 68 Shelby GT350 heads with the small combustion chamber I was gonna put on my 76 302 for my 76 truck but I decided to build a 351 Cleveland instead, better engine in my opinion. Still love those old 302’s though.
The 289 in my ‘66 was rebuilt back in 2015. The previous owner took it to a shop in Chattanooga and the engine was bored .030 over. It’s definitely a mild build, which is fine since it’s paired with a Cruise-o-matic 3-speed. It’s a nice cruiser for sure.
My thoughts: a high rpm screamer - bore it 10 thou over. (clean up only), better heads (gt40 - low cost), knife edged crank, main studs - not bolts, good rods, forged pistons (12-1), solid roller cam, freshen the heads, new ss valves, single angle valve job, spend some money on the valve train - possible a stud girdle on screw in studs. single plane intake - 7500 rpm mill - lots of details left out but essentially a budget screamer.
I like the idea of a high RPM build. Why solid roller over hydraulic? Which Cam are you thinking of? Why not higher CP above 12:1? How would a re-worked set of GT40 heads compare to something like 185cc AFR heads?
solid roller is stable to 8000 - a hyd roller is not - you would have to be ok with setting hot valve lash though - contact cam research for a cam suggestion - they are Ford gods. I agree a higher compression ratio would be better - I was holding back a little. AFRs would be better but gt40 or 40 p heads would cost maybe $200 bucks. If you want a another cam recommendation I can get one from a guy in California would is running this exact build - a little different heads but he has buckets of cash. @@AndyKruseChannel
Good call on the solid roller, that makes sense. Gt40 or Gt40p heads would have to be worked, right? Seems like after all the work that would go into them, something like AFR heads (or other high end head manuf.) might just be a better route? I'd be interested in that build sheet, it's always great to recreate a known entity than to guess when the budget is tight.
I will reach out - regarding the build sheet - yes - if AFR heads are in the budget then yes - much better - another interesting part of his build is an aluminum flywheel - the thing revs instantly @@AndyKruseChannel
Dude, power to you. Even if money were no object, I don’t know how you find the time to get all of these projects done, film and edit, and have kids and regular life. I feel like I barely get to attack my fastback’s To Do list. 👍 Keep it up
Thanks! I don't have the money or the time, so I'm just as baffled as you. But something is gonna have to give, because the RUclips machine requires it to be fed, so...... :)
@@AndyKruseChannel haha well, you’re killin it. I have a Wimbledon white 66 and slowly going for the gt350 tribute. I always look forward to your videos.
I turned my 289 into a 331. Used the '93 cobra GT-40 heads and roller rockers. Still waiting on installing it after a new paint job. You have a lot of options now a days to do some realy great tunning to the old 289. Fron re-sleeve the cylinders or a stroker. Enjoy that 347!
I was 'this close' to doing the 331 over the 347, but my engine builder convinced me that these days a 347 is as reliable as a 331, and you get that extra punch down low. I had read that there was a time where the 347 suffered from oil issues and over heating, but my builder explained how all that had been fixed. The only other reason why I would still be interested in a 331 is the higher RPMs I could get. Not really practical for the my current plans for the Fastback, but there's a part of me that still wants to build an 8000rpm screamer. :)
FYI-you have two different heads one is a ‘68302 the other is a ‘65 289. Not sure if combustion chambers have same volume (cc’s). 289’s rev so quickly and with a T5 and 4.11s are fun to drive. Always interesting to see what you are up to. Thanks for taking the time.
Andy, great video. I have a rebuilt 289 that is "amped" up a little bit. I put aluminum heads from speedmaster on that duplicate the gt40 heads that are popular. i also put an RV cam and hypereutectic pistons. I used solid lifters instead of hydraulic lifters. The research I found was that the lifter choice should complement your cam. The pain about solid lifters is having to adjust the rockers multiple times before and after engine break-in. In all I am very pleased with my choice of a 289. Great compression and response for street driving.
I'm in a near to same situation, I took the heads off my 289 to have them rebuilt and found dead lifters, a scored cam, and pistons with damage on top of them. Roller 302 arrived in a crate a couple weeks ago, once I'm healed from my back surgery it goes in and the 289 goes on the stand. I'll build the 289 up as a super high revving motor GT40 Mk1 style over time. The 302 H.O. will keep my 65 on the road in the meantime. 300 crank hp is more than enough to cruise with the kiddo for awhile :)
Man I love you content. My 289 seems to be in good shape, then, at least as far as bearings go. Oil pressure ranges from 35-60 at all times. Car doesn't overheat, runs at a nice 180.
kudos Andy .... when i redid / rebuilt my 289 on my 68 (thinking I had the original engine) turned out to be a 65 date code block with 66 heads ! Also after cleaning out the whole engine and measuring the tolerance's (crank shaft etc) I noticed that the engine was bored .060 over ! so turns out when you apply math to it and calculate everything I have a 298 actually ! I then decided to slap on a hydraulic mild comp cam 268h, new lifters, new roller rockers and a set of 71' 351w d0 heads and it now screams (well scream is a big word, but it has power now !). I would rebuild it ! have fun with it , parts for it are cheap ! Nice work man , love the channel.
So underrated engines great in the early falcons and Fairlanes gives you room in the engine bay too great engine in the 1967 FORD XR GT with the 289HP engine here in Australia America has built some brilliant Ford V8 engines
The reason for the head gasket difference is one of the heads is a later casting. Passenger side say 289 with C 5 A E casting number while the driver side with the orange had gasket says 302 with a C8OE casting number. Looks like a head was replaced at some time.
I had a worn out 289 like that in my 65 and my buddy missed a shift and reved it to the sky. All the rings broke and every valve almost dropped. Now it has a 302 crate motor. What I want is that 347.
It's tough to be ok with 271hp when I've had a taste for 447hp. :) I thought about building to sell, but it seems like I'd be better off keeping it for a future build, or just sell it as is.
I’m in same boat as you, have a 289 to rebuild, cuz I put a 302 in place of it. I think the #4 piston is letting oil bypass the oil ring cuz it looks clean on bottom side.
Measure Wear in the cylinders? Bore and new pistons? Or hone and ring replacement. Wear on the crank? Are the journals round? Size within specs? Grind and fit new undersize bearings? Polish and fit standard bearings. I'm willing to bet if you did a plastic gauge on those main bearings, you wouldn't crush the largest test strip. 🤔
On a small block Ford one head gasket has to go on upside down That's why you don't see the seal markings because both open water jackets in the gasket have to be at the back both head gaskets are identical there for one has to be turned upside down
The engine has been apart before, it has later heads on it. What are the casting numbers and the cast in marks between the rocker bosses? Show the combustion chambers. I don't see markings on the pistons denoting oversized. Check for ring ridge. Clean the carbon and measure the bore with a caliper. A lot of times if the bearings are replaced the rings stop banging on the ring ridge and oil consumption goes away. Pull the bearings and read the numbers on the back. Are they STD ford etc? What are the block casting numbers? I know, I ask a lot.😀
Rebuild it stock. A 289 block has shorter cylinder wall skirts. Not a good canadiate for strokers. Did you measure the bore (4.00") if .030 over up north 40 might go but it's DOA in the hot south. Sell the motor and apply it to a Dart 351 block that can be stroked to some serious torque at a later date and time. IMHO. Nice video.
thats an old wives tail, not true at all. it there is a difference it is minuscule and either an error in casting and/or within tolerance. 289 and 302 are the same block. people stroke 289's all the time with zero issues.
Other than worn, it looks very clean inside!: Looks like standard bore. You can check the timing chain. It's going to need a rebuild. Build a hot 289. However you more than likely will need to go .030 over.
Off topic I knew you were thinking about electric steering but have you checked out a Borgeson steering. I put it in my 69 Mach 1 and love it. Good road feel and responsive. Also do you ever come to the cardalene show. Or any local ones
I haven't done much research into steering (power, electric, etc), but I am leaning towards a tilt column/EPAS unit from Ididit. Nope, I don't get much time to go to car shows, but I wish I did. The farther they are from me, the greater the chance I can't make it. Some times I can't even make it to the local ones. :)
Facing this same decision-making process. My motor might be in even better shape - just starting tear-down, but I am thinking a roller cam/lifters for sure, and possibly new rods/pistons assuming the crank is in good shape. My end-game goal is a motor that is a “stock” A-code that was treated to all the Shelby accessories of the time. I take, Holley carb, and hi-po exhaust headers. Any recommendations on other mods and good brands to use would be appreciated. I have not done this kind of work since the mid-80’s 😂
It's tough to pick a path for these engines since we have so many. In my case, I knew I wanted a 347 and my engine builder told me he had a solid recipe, so that's what I had built. For the 289 in this video I'm thinking of a 302, solid roller, high lift, high compression, 8000rpm screamer. For your build, if you're looking for Shelby-like A-code build, I bet there's a build list out there for that and that's where I'd start. :)
From what I can see You have ring wash on 2 of the pistons and all of the babit is worn off the main bearings ! You can not bore that block out enough to build a 363 , You would have to purchase an aftermarket bigbore block ! Personally I would check to see if it's numbers matching and it is I would restore it to original condition it will be worth more that way . 🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍
I’d measure it at three points on the cylinders, if it’s close I’d hone it out good or have a machine shop hone it. If the bores are good no need to cut .010 or .030 over. Get some custom pistons made to fit the honed block, or std size, you can have the pistons coated with dry film if your just doing a light hone. Flat tops will put you at about 9.75 to 1 if they are single relief piston tops, shaving the heads down will get you to 10-1 compression. Stock bore 289’s hard to come by now days I’d keep it and rebuild it with a nice crank, ARP hardware etc. You can also put a 302 crank in there, and use the 289 rods for a long rod 302, need to do custom pistons for that set up , but you can then do a zero deck set up, instead of being .005 in the hole for more compression.
@@AndyKruseChannel I might need one , been a while since I’ve been to the doctor to have them check… Honestly I’ve got a set of forged pistons that would work in that, but believe you would need to cut, and hone that block unless it’s been cut already, but looks like that engine is original with those bearing showing that much wear.
What engine stand is that? The small one in the beginning of the video Also I'll be taking my 289 out of my 66 coupe in the next few weeks and putting a blueprint 302 in its place. But would love to build a high compression 289 over time. Still loving the videos!
I personally would keep it 289 for the high rpm potential and put a set of heads on it from a v8 explorer to let it breathe better, closest thing to a HP 289 w/o starting with one. Great video @AndyKruseChannel
Looks like a standard bore, no markings on the piston tops. I would keep it a 289 as they have short cylinder skirts and don't make good stroker candidates. Put in a hotter cam, bump the compression slightly, better intake manifold and some nice aluminum heads (just some Edelbrocks would be fine) nothing crazy but would bump the HP and torque by 30 over stock. It would be a sweet running engine.
curious as to if it is worth putting money into my 289 (I would be happy with a 13 or 12 second 1/4 car) or just yank and save for another project. I have worked on alot of LS engines but this is my 1st ford pushrod engine (I had a 4.6 cobra back in 1998) It is in a 66 fairlane.
You'll get a mixed bag of answers on keeping the 289 or doing something different. While I wanted more displacement for my Fastback, I also want something like a 302 that'll sing all the way to 8000rpm. You have several ways you can build or stroke that 289, but if originality means anything, keep the 289 on the side (just in case) and find a 302 hydraulic roller and build from there. :)
I couldn't see any. There's no indication that this engine has been rebuilt. However, others have pointed out that I have a 1965 and 1968 heads on that engine, so...... :)
@@AndyKruseChannel id add that to the lost of issues. no hatch means its not holding oil, or not enough at least, which would lower pressure and lead to the cylinder wash.
I know why one head gasket is different look good at the casting numbers on both heads one is a 289 one a 302 there basically the same but it’s still to different heads try find another 289 to make it correct
I see that your engine is a "C code" 289 ( dish pistons 9.3 compression 200 HP ) replace with "A code" pistons 10 to 1 compression 255 HP( no dish in piston just the 4 valve relief's) and use 91 octane gas.
That's one option. What about a 363? Or what about boring it 30 over and making it an 8k RPM monster? I just gotta figure out the money part and then I'm set! :)
Clean it up, rebuild as a strong 289 or stroker. Drop it in a Factor Five kit car. Cobras are 2200 lbs and 300-350 hp is more than enough for those cars.
I think I would rebuild it back to factory stock all new. You would get more $ if it's factory stock from a guy that has a nice 60's Mustang and wants to keep his factory stock. Judges at car shows like to see that. Like mentioned below, pay attention to the directions how the head gaskets go on....Good video Andy....Thanks!
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Yep that engine has seen better days, it’s tired. I can tell you that at least the driver side head has been off because it has a 302 C8 part number meaning it’s a 1968 head so that might explain why that head gasket looks different. The passenger side head had a 289 C6 part number-1966. Great content bud, can’t wait to see what you do with it, I’d leave it a 289 just because they’re getting rarer and they run great. Can’t wait to see the car when it’s done. Keep up the great work man!
Eagle eye, nice catch on the head numbers. :)
I have a 66 coupe with a 289. I just put 302 heads on it. Love it.
@@gulfcoastaero8048 yeah I got a set of 68 Shelby GT350 heads with the small combustion chamber I was gonna put on my 76 302 for my 76 truck but I decided to build a 351 Cleveland instead, better engine in my opinion. Still love those old 302’s though.
@@FastFords289 Back in High School I had an old 76 Factory lime green 2 door Comet with a sweet 302. Sold it in College. I am an idiot.
@@gulfcoastaero8048 very nice, yeah you don’t see those old comets anymore, they’re getting rare but very cool.
The 289 in my ‘66 was rebuilt back in 2015. The previous owner took it to a shop in Chattanooga and the engine was bored .030 over. It’s definitely a mild build, which is fine since it’s paired with a Cruise-o-matic 3-speed.
It’s a nice cruiser for sure.
Yeah, there's a lot of paths we can take with these engines, and have fun the whole time. :)
My thoughts: a high rpm screamer - bore it 10 thou over. (clean up only), better heads (gt40 - low cost), knife edged crank, main studs - not bolts, good rods, forged pistons (12-1), solid roller cam, freshen the heads, new ss valves, single angle valve job, spend some money on the valve train - possible a stud girdle on screw in studs. single plane intake - 7500 rpm mill - lots of details left out but essentially a budget screamer.
I like the idea of a high RPM build. Why solid roller over hydraulic? Which Cam are you thinking of? Why not higher CP above 12:1? How would a re-worked set of GT40 heads compare to something like 185cc AFR heads?
solid roller is stable to 8000 - a hyd roller is not - you would have to be ok with setting hot valve lash though - contact cam research for a cam suggestion - they are Ford gods. I agree a higher compression ratio would be better - I was holding back a little. AFRs would be better but gt40 or 40 p heads would cost maybe $200 bucks. If you want a another cam recommendation I can get one from a guy in California would is running this exact build - a little different heads but he has buckets of cash. @@AndyKruseChannel
Good call on the solid roller, that makes sense.
Gt40 or Gt40p heads would have to be worked, right? Seems like after all the work that would go into them, something like AFR heads (or other high end head manuf.) might just be a better route?
I'd be interested in that build sheet, it's always great to recreate a known entity than to guess when the budget is tight.
I will reach out - regarding the build sheet - yes - if AFR heads are in the budget then yes - much better - another interesting part of his build is an aluminum flywheel - the thing revs instantly @@AndyKruseChannel
@@goldysgarage189 You wouldn't be taking about Dave Tous Mustang would you?
You have a lot of options on this engine depending on it's main purpose. One of the best engines ever made IMO.
Yep. :)
Dude, power to you. Even if money were no object, I don’t know how you find the time to get all of these projects done, film and edit, and have kids and regular life. I feel like I barely get to attack my fastback’s To Do list.
👍 Keep it up
Thanks! I don't have the money or the time, so I'm just as baffled as you. But something is gonna have to give, because the RUclips machine requires it to be fed, so...... :)
@@AndyKruseChannel haha well, you’re killin it. I have a Wimbledon white 66 and slowly going for the gt350 tribute. I always look forward to your videos.
I turned my 289 into a 331. Used the '93 cobra GT-40 heads and roller rockers.
Still waiting on installing it after a new paint job.
You have a lot of options now a days to do some realy great tunning to the old 289. Fron re-sleeve the cylinders or a stroker. Enjoy that 347!
I was 'this close' to doing the 331 over the 347, but my engine builder convinced me that these days a 347 is as reliable as a 331, and you get that extra punch down low. I had read that there was a time where the 347 suffered from oil issues and over heating, but my builder explained how all that had been fixed. The only other reason why I would still be interested in a 331 is the higher RPMs I could get. Not really practical for the my current plans for the Fastback, but there's a part of me that still wants to build an 8000rpm screamer. :)
FYI-you have two different heads one is a ‘68302 the other is a ‘65 289. Not sure if combustion chambers have same volume (cc’s). 289’s rev so quickly and with a T5 and 4.11s are fun to drive. Always interesting to see what you are up to. Thanks for taking the time.
Yeah, there's been a few eagle eyed folks point out the different heads, so it's cool to see what others find with the engine. :)
Andy, great video. I have a rebuilt 289 that is "amped" up a little bit. I put aluminum heads from speedmaster on that duplicate the gt40 heads that are popular. i also put an RV cam and hypereutectic pistons. I used solid lifters instead of hydraulic lifters. The research I found was that the lifter choice should complement your cam. The pain about solid lifters is having to adjust the rockers multiple times before and after engine break-in. In all I am very pleased with my choice of a 289. Great compression and response for street driving.
Yeah, it's cool all the options and different paths we can take with these engines. :)
I'm in a near to same situation, I took the heads off my 289 to have them rebuilt and found dead lifters, a scored cam, and pistons with damage on top of them.
Roller 302 arrived in a crate a couple weeks ago, once I'm healed from my back surgery it goes in and the 289 goes on the stand. I'll build the 289 up as a super high revving motor GT40 Mk1 style over time.
The 302 H.O. will keep my 65 on the road in the meantime. 300 crank hp is more than enough to cruise with the kiddo for awhile :)
Nice! That new build is going to be slick!
Time to make a 302 out of it. I have a 302 with '69 351 windsor heads ported. Runs great.
Don't tempt me!! :)
Man I love you content. My 289 seems to be in good shape, then, at least as far as bearings go. Oil pressure ranges from 35-60 at all times. Car doesn't overheat, runs at a nice 180.
That’s good to hear, sounds like you shouldn’t have any engine problems any time soon. 🙂
add a windage tray - inexpensive upgrade for several horsepower gain.
Thanks for the heads up. :)
kudos Andy .... when i redid / rebuilt my 289 on my 68 (thinking I had the original engine) turned out to be a 65 date code block with 66 heads ! Also after cleaning out the whole engine and measuring the tolerance's (crank shaft etc) I noticed that the engine was bored .060 over ! so turns out when you apply math to it and calculate everything I have a 298 actually ! I then decided to slap on a hydraulic mild comp cam 268h, new lifters, new roller rockers and a set of 71' 351w d0 heads and it now screams (well scream is a big word, but it has power now !). I would rebuild it ! have fun with it , parts for it are cheap ! Nice work man , love the channel.
Yeah, it’s crazy all the routes we can take with these engines. But building a screamer would be the route I’m most interested in. 🤘🏻
u already have the 347 ! greedy :-)
@@AndyKruseChannel
So underrated engines great in the early falcons and Fairlanes gives you room in the engine bay too
great engine in the 1967 FORD XR GT with the 289HP engine here in Australia
America has built some brilliant Ford V8 engines
Yeah, the 60's were a great time for cars and engines, and I'm glad I can have that stuff today. :)
The reason for the head gasket difference is one of the heads is a later casting. Passenger side say 289 with C 5 A E casting number while the driver side with the orange had gasket says 302 with a C8OE casting number. Looks like a head was replaced at some time.
I still have so much to learn about these engines, thanks for the heads up. :)
Turbo 331 as a spare engine!
But then I'd have to go F.I., and I'm not ready for that yet. But wouldn't that kind of build be amazing!! :)
I had a worn out 289 like that in my 65 and my buddy missed a shift and reved it to the sky. All the rings broke and every valve
almost dropped. Now it has a 302 crate motor. What I want is that 347.
Well, sounds like we've got a plan, next step is to make it happen! Let's go 347!! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel No $$$ = no 347.
Andy, make a hi po out of it, I'm sure you could sell it easy. 271 hp is pretty good . Good luck
It's tough to be ok with 271hp when I've had a taste for 447hp. :)
I thought about building to sell, but it seems like I'd be better off keeping it for a future build, or just sell it as is.
I’m in same boat as you, have a 289 to rebuild, cuz I put a 302 in place of it. I think the #4 piston is letting oil bypass the oil ring cuz it looks clean on bottom side.
And #8cylinder also.
You may be right, it's needs a good rebuild. But why stop there? :)
How is the oil consumption?
I'm not 100% sure but 4 and 8 have cylinder wash caused by excessive oil getting past the rings
Yeah, I've had a few comments like that. Looks like we need more power!! So a rebuild and matching heads then. :)
Measure
Wear in the cylinders? Bore and new pistons? Or hone and ring replacement.
Wear on the crank? Are the journals round? Size within specs? Grind and fit new undersize bearings? Polish and fit standard bearings.
I'm willing to bet if you did a plastic gauge on those main bearings, you wouldn't crush the largest test strip.
🤔
Yeah, all that is outside my pay grade. I'm better off having an engine shop figure all that out. :)
On a small block Ford one head gasket has to go on upside down That's why you don't see the seal markings because both open water jackets in the gasket have to be at the back both head gaskets are identical there for one has to be turned upside down
Aww, that makes sense. I am once again the student. :)
The engine has been apart before, it has later heads on it. What are the casting numbers and the cast in marks between the rocker bosses? Show the combustion chambers. I don't see markings on the pistons denoting oversized. Check for ring ridge. Clean the carbon and measure the bore with a caliper. A lot of times if the bearings are replaced the rings stop banging on the ring ridge and oil consumption goes away. Pull the bearings and read the numbers on the back. Are they STD ford etc? What are the block casting numbers?
I know, I ask a lot.😀
I filmed this video a while ago and I put that block on the back burner for now, the funds just aren't here yet for rebuild. :)
A 363 requires an aftermarket block. 289/302 can only be made to 331 or 347. 😊
Yep, have a 347 from a 302, but I've heard the 363 is the realistic max a 289/302 can stroke out to.
@@AndyKruseChannel - to get 363 the bore has to be 4.125” or 8.7” deck height for more stroke.
Rebuild it stock. A 289 block has shorter cylinder wall skirts. Not a good canadiate for strokers. Did you measure the bore (4.00") if .030 over up north 40 might go but it's DOA in the hot south. Sell the motor and apply it to a Dart 351 block that can be stroked to some serious torque at a later date and time. IMHO. Nice video.
Yeah, it's crazy all the options and potential builds that can be created from these blocks. :)
thats an old wives tail, not true at all. it there is a difference it is minuscule and either an error in casting and/or within tolerance. 289 and 302 are the same block. people stroke 289's all the time with zero issues.
Interesting. Always wanting to learn so why the difference in the engineering number?@@bofa83
Other than worn, it looks very clean inside!: Looks like standard bore. You can check the timing chain. It's going to need a rebuild. Build a hot 289. However you more than likely will need to go .030 over.
Yeah, an 8000rpm screaming 302 is towards the top of the list. :)
Off topic I knew you were thinking about electric steering but have you checked out a Borgeson steering. I put it in my 69 Mach 1 and love it. Good road feel and responsive. Also do you ever come to the cardalene show. Or any local ones
I haven't done much research into steering (power, electric, etc), but I am leaning towards a tilt column/EPAS unit from Ididit.
Nope, I don't get much time to go to car shows, but I wish I did. The farther they are from me, the greater the chance I can't make it. Some times I can't even make it to the local ones. :)
Facing this same decision-making process. My motor might be in even better shape - just starting tear-down, but I am thinking a roller cam/lifters for sure, and possibly new rods/pistons assuming the crank is in good shape. My end-game goal is a motor that is a “stock” A-code that was treated to all the Shelby accessories of the time. I take, Holley carb, and hi-po exhaust headers. Any recommendations on other mods and good brands to use would be appreciated. I have not done this kind of work since the mid-80’s 😂
It's tough to pick a path for these engines since we have so many. In my case, I knew I wanted a 347 and my engine builder told me he had a solid recipe, so that's what I had built. For the 289 in this video I'm thinking of a 302, solid roller, high lift, high compression, 8000rpm screamer.
For your build, if you're looking for Shelby-like A-code build, I bet there's a build list out there for that and that's where I'd start. :)
From what I can see You have ring wash on 2 of the pistons and all of the babit is worn off the main bearings ! You can not bore that block out enough to build a 363 , You would have to purchase an aftermarket bigbore block ! Personally I would check to see if it's numbers matching and it is I would restore it to original condition it will be worth more that way . 🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍
Yeah, I was reading that the 289 is not the block for doing a 363, Darn. :)
I’d measure it at three points on the cylinders, if it’s close I’d hone it out good or have a machine shop hone it. If the bores are good no need to cut .010 or .030 over. Get some custom pistons made to fit the honed block, or std size, you can have the pistons coated with dry film if your just doing a light hone. Flat tops will put you at about 9.75 to 1 if they are single relief piston tops, shaving the heads down will get you to 10-1 compression. Stock bore 289’s hard to come by now days I’d keep it and rebuild it with a nice crank, ARP hardware etc. You can also put a 302 crank in there, and use the 289 rods for a long rod 302, need to do custom pistons for that set up , but you can then do a zero deck set up, instead of being .005 in the hole for more compression.
Awesome, sounds like so good options. DO you know where I can sell a kidney so I can get this build rolling!? :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I might need one , been a while since I’ve been to the doctor to have them check… Honestly I’ve got a set of forged pistons that would work in that, but believe you would need to cut, and hone that block unless it’s been cut already, but looks like that engine is original with those bearing showing that much wear.
Keep it “stock”.. if u ever decide to do a restoration. That block has the “Z” bar mount. Newer blocks do not have that provision(clutch)
The "stock" part is not something I focus on, but I like having a spare block for all of the What-ifs I can think of. :)
What engine stand is that? The small one in the beginning of the video
Also I'll be taking my 289 out of my 66 coupe in the next few weeks and putting a blueprint 302 in its place. But would love to build a high compression 289 over time. Still loving the videos!
I made that stand because the other one I had at the time was holding my 347. :)
I personally would keep it 289 for the high rpm potential and put a set of heads on it from a v8 explorer to let it breathe better, closest thing to a HP 289 w/o starting with one.
Great video @AndyKruseChannel
@JohnWright-dv1qb I'm keeping the 289 for sure. Just may go into another car later on.
Looks like a standard bore, no markings on the piston tops. I would keep it a 289 as they have short cylinder skirts and don't make good stroker candidates. Put in a hotter cam, bump the compression slightly, better intake manifold and some nice aluminum heads (just some Edelbrocks would be fine) nothing crazy but would bump the HP and torque by 30 over stock. It would be a sweet running engine.
Yeah, I'll do something along those lines. I already have my 347 stroker, so this would be good to do something else with it. :)
curious as to if it is worth putting money into my 289 (I would be happy with a 13 or 12 second 1/4 car) or just yank and save for another project. I have worked on alot of LS engines but this is my 1st ford pushrod engine (I had a 4.6 cobra back in 1998)
It is in a 66 fairlane.
You'll get a mixed bag of answers on keeping the 289 or doing something different. While I wanted more displacement for my Fastback, I also want something like a 302 that'll sing all the way to 8000rpm. You have several ways you can build or stroke that 289, but if originality means anything, keep the 289 on the side (just in case) and find a 302 hydraulic roller and build from there. :)
@AndyKruseChannel I am find the same thing on Google, it is very hard to find actual numbers.
how was the cross hatch on the cylinder walls?
I couldn't see any. There's no indication that this engine has been rebuilt. However, others have pointed out that I have a 1965 and 1968 heads on that engine, so...... :)
@@AndyKruseChannel id add that to the lost of issues. no hatch means its not holding oil, or not enough at least, which would lower pressure and lead to the cylinder wash.
How many miles on the engine?
I don’t know. I don’t know if it was the original engine and I don’t know if the odometer has rolled over. 🙂
I know why one head gasket is different look good at the casting numbers on both heads one is a 289 one a 302 there basically the same but it’s still to different heads try find another 289 to make it correct
Yeah, I think I just need to make this into a 8000 rpm screamer. :)
How many miles on that 289 ?
I have no idea. I'm not positive it's the original since it apparently has two different heads. :)
I seen this video but hit it again, But if you have not done it yet ? watch some of David Vizard's video's. cam designer since the 60s.
Thanks for the heads up. :)
I see that your engine is a "C code" 289 ( dish pistons 9.3 compression 200 HP ) replace with "A code" pistons 10 to 1 compression 255 HP( no dish in piston just the 4 valve relief's) and use 91 octane gas.
That's one option. What about a 363? Or what about boring it 30 over and making it an 8k RPM monster? I just gotta figure out the money part and then I'm set! :)
Clean it up, rebuild as a strong 289 or stroker. Drop it in a Factor Five kit car. Cobras are 2200 lbs and 300-350 hp is more than enough for those cars.
But doesn't 500hp in a 2200lb chassis have a nice ring to it?
@@AndyKruseChannel Oh but of course!
Dude, where's your car? 😂
Hopefully it's on schedule, I want it back from paint! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel right! I'm excited to see.
Your going to rebuild that engine and then pick up another Ford to put it in. That’s how it happens, that’s how it always happens.
I like your thinking, now it's time to sell a kidney for the new project. :)
40 over will equal heating issues.
Challenge accepted!! 😁
Yup, needs a rebuild.
Yup.
Cylinders pretty glossed over.
Probably.
I have no ide why my comment has a Z in the passenger side head casting number. edited it several times. It is a c5ae casting number
Looks like it came through. :)
331 or less, you won't get a 363 out of that!
Agree to disagree. :)
@AndyKruseChannel Maybe so, but a stock 289 SB will be toast no time stroked to a 363, but hey, give it a go and give us the honest result. jmo
I think I would rebuild it back to factory stock all new. You would get more $ if it's factory stock from a guy that has a nice 60's Mustang and wants to keep his factory stock. Judges at car shows like to see that. Like mentioned below, pay attention to the directions how the head gaskets go on....Good video Andy....Thanks!
Cool, thanks for the heads up. :)
Probably too late for that as I am pretty sure Andy has already modified his mustang quite a bit.
😮 wow...I did a 69 that's never been open ....literally prestine...comparing 😂
Nice.
289s wins Le Mans 1968 & 69.....is the true Champ......and with 302s.....RULES
Yes.