This guy is awesome and he tells it like it is… Canadian Tire quoted me 3 hours labor on this. I have been working on cars since I was 14. Did my first engine rebuild in shop class in grade 9. I asked the mechanic why they were quoting me 3 hours for a job I can with no air tools in 40 minutes to an hour. He said that's just what they charge... ridiculous! Same thing happened at Dueck in Richmond when my friends starter died on her vehicle... they quoted her $800. I called them and asked them what on earth were they charging her for.. he said a starter was $350 and they were charging 3 hours labor at $150 and hour.. I told him I could buy a new Delco Starter for $125 and install it in a half an hour... or even better I could buy a new solenoid for $25 and replace it and fix the vehicle in less than an hour.. he then said we don't replace solenoids.. but we can do the whole job for $600.. lol I think the point this guy is making is that the prices most dealers and many mechanics are charging is highway robbery.. True Story great video
Yes that is how we do it in Ontario, I always remove the stainless sliders on the caliper bracket and replace but not before wire brushing or lightly sandblasting the bracket first . Also the coated corrosion resistant rotors are worth the extra $$ . Great video Rich
You mentioned if I don't have experience doing brakes, I shouldn't do my own brakes. Lesson learned, I'll get experience by doing other people's brakes!
nah. Do your own brakes. If you have experience working on a car or mechanic stuff in general, brake jobs is uncomplicated as long as you actually know how to do it. That's not something that comes with experience - that is something that comes from reading the shop manual (or a haynes or similar book). I did my first brake job on my car when I was 15. I had one guy giving me some pointers. He said, use the right tools and don't be afraid. Not complicated at all. Will take more than 10 minutes tho if you are not used to it/don't have a lift to put the car on. But not complicated. It's something everyone who knows a bit about mechanic stuff can do if they really want to. And nowdays with youtube and internet haha. It would take a lot of effort to not find the information you need for free :D.
My Chevy dealer only quoted me $480 for the front brakes pads and rotors. My mechanic quoted me $380. Both of those were for mid grade parts. I went on Amazon and got AC Delco Professional pads fronts & rears for $142, also got a reduced price for rotors from Automotive Warehouse, coated against corrosion for fronts and rears for $140. Paid $30 for a brake piston kit from Amazon. Installed the brakes myself and saved at least a couple hundred dollars.
Did my own front brakes and rotors with quality parts for $120.00. Could have got by cheaper using lower quality parts, but brakes are not a place to cut corners.
Thanks man. They wanted 1k for all 4 pads and rotors just for labor alone. I was like effff that and asked around instead. Ended up getting my co-worker do all for $120 and the parts were just $195. Saved me a ton of money
A buddy of mines charged me $100 to change both my rotors and brake pads on all 4 tires and tbh I didn't know if he was charging me too much or not cause I wasn't too familiar with these prices its my first car (im only 18) turns out he didn't charge me too much after all
$600 for civic pads and rotors. That makes me fume. If you have a family, and you are letting this happen because you don't like, don't know how to, or don't have the time to work on your own cars. Then you have a responsibility to stop this from happening. Mechanics are the kings of differential pricing (which is usually not illegal). Meaning if you look like the type of schmuck that would pay $1200 for a brake job, then guess what, your brake job is going to cost $1200. If you look like you will pay $600, then its your lucky day. Learn how your car works so that you can be more independent and look out for your family and yourself. Even if you don't do the work, you'll make more options for yourself and know what's happening. On a practical note, as inconvenient as it might be...never..ever...go to a mechanic in your work clothes. Especially if you work a white color professional job. Always go in your crappiest, dirtiest garage working clothes. Don't talk about which neighborhood you live in, or other personal details. They are sizing you up before you ever walk in the door, and with every detail you share. You can't change them. But you can change you.
Apologies. I was a bit heavy handed (probably the most strongly worded comment I've ever left on youtube). But its a terrible situation, and one that I am passionate about. Hard watching family, friends, and neighbors get taken. I do my own work, and when ever possible, I offer to teach my friends, family, and neighbors to do at least some of their own work (oil changes, brakes, etc), or even to just help them do it to save money. On the flip side, I have helped 3 grown men fix their vehicles recently, and they were all afraid to touch their own vehicle (I don't mean nervous or intimidated...but afraid). To be fair, I find that almost just as frustrating.
There's a reason that "mechanics" have a reputation for being con artists. It happens often enough that those stories are either first or second hand knowledge. It happens because garages know that people are uneducated about vehicles, especially these days, and they can get away with it. Americans can not live without cars and mechanics know that as well. Then there's the 20/20 episodes that lend further evidence of bad companies pushing illegal practices. If you're an honest mechanic, that's great. But the temptation to be corrupt as a mechanic in this country is just too easy. I like Jordan's advice and your best resources are your coworkers, friends, and family. Find a couple reputable mechanics BEFORE you need one!!!
That same temptation is just as common with the average person you meet on the street. A good share of people are pathological liars. Work as a police officer or a flagger on a road closed to local traffic and you will be surprised how many people are not only pathological liars but are also dumb enough to think you won't find out. This is especially interesting if you have taken even a basic class in criminology because ironically those are similar thinking patterns of the common criminal.
Jordan Moore - I think... this issue was the "dealership". Don't get me wrong I know a few underhanded shops, but in the most part the independent shops are less crooked. Never once have I been in and out of a dealership without being recommended a new car. That's what they do, they sell cars. They might make a slight on mechanics but overall there money is in the vehicles. Best to A - Check with multiple shops. B - Keep the dealers at arms length. Nothing worse than being coaxed into parting ways with your car because it has over 150k and is "unreliable" (in a dealers opinion)
Should have cleaned the rust off the calipers where the pads go. Also was there no brake hardware that came with the pads? Why didn't you clean the guide pins?
He did what the dealer would have at far lower cost. I would have done the additional things ypou mentioned as well if they were needed. He was basically trying to show you how badly you are getting screwed.
I'd have done that too and finished off by cleaning the surfaces with brake cleaner to make sure no oils or grease were left on anything. BUT most shops "don't sweat the small stuff" as my boss used to say. :)
Greasing slide pins should be fine.. cars not too old! Also what hardware is it you were expecting to see? I've never gotten "hardware" with my pads.. unless your talking about redoing the drum (emergency) brake?
Add another 10 to 15 minutes to clean the rust from the bracket, install new clips, clean and lube slide pins, clean rust from hub surface, lube hub surface. In Vermont they salt the road like crazy, new pads would stick if extra prep was not done. Still, extra 15 minutes per wheel doesn't get you anywhere near that dealer price. Thanks for the video! Great heads up to avoid being scammed.
I hate brake jobs, but, I’ll continue doing them for parts and a bottle of whiskey for my friends and family. No one deserves a $900 brake job bill on a $1500 vehicle.
Can I be your friend..so you can also work on my car too.. these mechanics are really ripping off novice customers.. I will get you 4 bottles of whiskey... only if you live in Canada.. what do you think, my new friend..
Tip, you can use a screwdriver/etc to push the piston back before you take the pads out.. Be careful if you are only changing pads. But if changing both pads and discs, then go crazy.. Just remember to crack the brake fluid cap before pushing the piston back... saves a lot of time stuffing around with other tools.
I got some drilled and slotted EBC rotors and pads for about 250 - i HIGHLY recommend them!. It didn't take a long time at all to install them and they stop SO well!
I bought a 2014 RAM used (I know ... what was I thinking?). 2 weeks later I noticed the e-brake cable hanging low. Yes. I use it. It needed a recall done so I asked them to check out the e-brake. They said (and I confirmed) that the e-brakes were full of rust and dirt and I would need a full rear brake job. $610 was the asking price. I told them to squat on it and was pissed they didn't do them when they did their safety inspection before resale. That is something they make a big deal about. Anyway, they had loosened up the e-brakes and I laid off them for 8 months until I got to my brother-in-laws farm in Ohio. He is a trained diesel mechanic and does 98% of his own work. He showed me the ropes on how to change out the brakes. I had to replace the rear calipers, all 4 rotors, pads, clean up the front calipers, and replace the e-brakes. I did all of that for $330 including "life-time" warrantied calipers and premium pads and rotors. I change the fuel filter and installed step rails while I had it on the lift. All I had to do was drive tractor for a bit, help with move the wheat truck a couple miles down the road, and swap out a Ford front wheel bearing. I like my dealer but their are not my friends or family. They do a good job but they can save the high dollar amounts for the high rollers. Actually, you remind me of my brother-in-law. Always has a project (or two or three) and is never clean after 6 AM.
I too own a 14 RAM blackout edition...while in for a recall (I knew my brakes were getting near shot, started the typical grind and squeal) they did my entire rear pads and rotors (oem parts) for $325...which isnt bad, (they first said $400...I told them I would pay $300...then somehow they magically had some magic coupon get me to my price lol
Canadian English is fascinating. What I call a "breaker bar", you call a "johnson bar". Here in the US, a "johnson bar" is the lever you use to manually engage the trailer service brakes on a truck with air brakes.
Canadian here and never heard Johnson Bar before either. Canada is huge though. It's probably a more regional thing. As for engaging trailer brakes, I typically hear that called "The spike".
Sorry Ponyboy, but there are lots of people (in Ontario at least ) that call it a Johnson bar. We may not know why we call it that, but we do. When we get a funny look for calling it that we just say" you know, a breaker bar".
Love the channel rich but I'm a brake specialist and you missed several crucial steps like cleaning parts properly, cleaning slides and slide wholes most importantly clamping off the brake hose, opening the bleeder and ejecting old fluid out the bleeder and not pushing old fluid back through abs unit as it's how they fail, always clamp ur brake hoses and eject old fluid and top up resivour with new fluid!!
Our shop charged $100 per axle plus parts. My personal best was in the driveway on my own car, 22 minutes, front disc and rear drum. Lot of that has to do w/ familiarity, you're not rechecking stuff you just dealt with last change or looking for other problems as with cars of others.
Did my first brake job on an import in 1987. It was a 1982 Toyota Tercel. My soon-to-be wife's car. I replaced everything including the calipers. Took me all of two and a half hours. Easiest and quickest brake job ever and I'm no professional. Job was done and tested. I'm looking at this thing with my jaw on the ground. How can this be so simple?? Oh. By the way. I made one of those impact drivers in shop class back in the day. Thanks Rich!
Hey Rich, I'm some random guy on the internet. I've watched a bunch of car repair videos on RUclips; I also change my own oil, and I've done my own brakes a few times. So given my vast experience with automotive equipment, I'm going to tell you what you should have done on this brake job.... FYI - I'm thinking about starting my own RUclips channel. And when I do, I'll be sure to come back and grace you with my expertise on what you should be doing on your channel too. Anyway, I'd love to get together some time and have a beer - I've got all sorts of unsolicited advice to share.
I know of a young fellow who was charged six hundred dollars to replace headlight bulbs on his truck from his dealer things are just plain out of hand. We need more filthy rich's in the world, real world mechanics helping real world people save a few dollars every now and then. I have always worked on my own vehicles and my friends cause I like to help others when my experience can allow me to. Your truly filthy Lee not rich lol
Only slight recommendations: 1) Retrack the piston of the caliper while on top of the OLD rotor so you don't accidentally damage the new rotor. 2) You should use a torque wrench on those mounting bolts and even add some loctite. The gutentight is fine, but I've seen a bolt missing from a brake job. 3) Should clean the hub with a wire brush before mounting the new rotor....just recommendations since the DIY doesn't have to race the clock.
This guy gives all mechanics a bad name. I’m an ASE certified technician and I can tell you he hacked this job. Talk about contamination! It was a nice attempt at cleaning the rotor but he came nowhere close to doing it correctly. How do you call it clean when you put your greasy hands all over it after you were done? Not to mention the cleaning technique was incorrect. Plus he put his greasy fingers all over the new linings. That means all that grease in now imbedded in those brand new pads! Why didn’t he at least replace the brake hardware? The brake grease used on the external surfaces of the caliper bracket will wash out during the first rainy day the car sees. Why didn’t he clean the hub? Why didn’t he at least mic the rotors to see if he could resurface them? Also, he should have cleaned the corrosion on the centering hub for the wheel. I love how he is going to torque the lug nuts but nothing else. What a joke! You are much better off going to the dealership to have a factory trained technician work on your vehicle. You are less likely to find a hack.
Make sure to soak everything in brake clean, especially if you have a greasy handprint on the rotor like at 12:10 ;). Also be careful not to use too much grease on where the pads slide, dont want the excess ending up on the rotor/pads. Crazy that they wanted basically 4 hours shop rate to do front brakes. Techs make plenty on brake jobs even when its a flat 1 hour book rate.
The last time I had the front brake pads and rotors replaced on my 2002 Accord five years ago my independent mechanic charged me about $300 USD. He used factory Honda pads I am not sure about the rotors. Since then I have not had any issues with the brakes. I will find out if they need replacing next month when I go in for service and NY State safety/emissions inspection. On this car I have never had to change the rear drum brake shoes they are factory original after 18 years of service.
The dealer just has a larger per hour rate than most regular shops, plus the oem parts are more expensive. They quoted 1200 for a friend of mine for this same car. It included rotors, pads and two calipers.
It seems to me that dealerships are absolutely crooked and independent chain shops will charge less, but also beyond what is reasonable. It's the small shops like Deboss Garage that you can trust.
You know I'd like to support my mechanic but seeing this makes me question his charges any suggestions as to how to address the situation? I was charged 2 hours labor for a new set of rear brake pads one rotor. The caliber wore out the pad on one side so both sides had to be changed. I need more work done but now I feel I can't trust his prices and want to talk about it without breaking the relationship as he has been my mechanic for many years...
I am a diesel mechanic like you rich I work on everything and work on air brakes daily at the shop . I also work on vehicles at my house and I have 300 boxes of brakes I’ve changed on cars for warranty. I only charge $20 American for each wheel in labor . I stay swamped lol I need to start making videos . Including air brake
'after you finish pump your brakes a few times' he says. Ha! I live on a hill and forgot this essential detail in the warm glow of saving money. One of the most buttock clenchingly awful moments of my life followed as brake pedal went straight to the floor, travelling down the hill to the sharp bend where it joins main road . Won't make that mistake again. Thanks for the video, v comprehensive.
Good tutorial, well done but things can go sideways if you can't get those two screws off the rotors because their seized or the heads are stripped or both. Same with the rest of the hardware if it's on too tight or seized it can make this otherwise straightforward job alot harder. Perhaps a video on what to do when you encounter seized hardware and how to get it off.
Just for good measure I clean the slides and clip points with Emery cloth but love you deboss a real down to earth mechanic dealers just quoted My mother 5000.00 for brake's on her mb ml 63 amg. I did it for 400.00
I understand and agree that dealers are too expensive. Having said that where i work we charge near $200 us for a brake and rotor replacement. We also clean the hubs and coat with fluid film as well as run a tap through the 6mm screw holes. Caliper brackets get media blasted where the pads mate (your hot rotor was from the rust binding the pads, not the slides) and we clean and regrease the slides. This takes time but is a very good repair. Remember not all things are equal. remember that you get what you pay for in some cases.
its interesting to watch a guy that knows what he is doing and it only takes 10 minutes. (i do my own brakes, but it takes me double the time) But I have saved probably about $3,000.00 or more doing my own brakes on my last 3 cars instead of letting a dealership do them. Well done video!
When I used to work at the dealers, I used to hate when people would get their brakes done there. Such a fucking rip off. Might as well add a 120$ brake flush with that. That way the service writer can get their kick back.
Okay I've gotta know, so if anyone can help with this, I would be grateful! How much should it cost to replace BOTH front brakes on a 02 Nissian Altima 4dr, 6 cylinders? Because I just got an estimate of 300 for both sides. Not sure if that's a deal or not. Thanks in advance.
I prefer Febi Bilstein rotors and pads. High quality, made in Germany. Total brake service: 4 rotors + 8 pads + heat resistant copper grease ($130). Time and enthusiasm: priceless :-)
I do my own brakes and get a discount for parts at o’riellys because I work at a automotive shop, I’m only 17 did my rear brakes for 85$, never done brakes before and did just fine
If you "know" that your brakes are worn, due to symptoms noticeable to the driver, it's already "too late". You can save yourself the cost of brake rotors if you replace the pads BEFORE symptoms occur. ALL of my "every day" cars have their original rotors. . . . . . . . . NOTE . . . most of the European cars I have worked on, for some reason, wear out rotors, often times BEFORE the pads wear out, especially Mercedes Benz vehicles and they use ORGANIC brake pads!
Every brake job i do i replace pads rotors and calipers and do a brake flush for my customers to guarantee a long brake job. My brake jobs i do for my customers normally last 5 years. I do akebono pada with centric rotors
i am a semi-disabled grandmother....my regular mechanic wasn't available, so i went to mavis tires for a simple, routine repair...for basic front brake pads...which were advertised as being $89.99 on sale...(i was prepared to pay up to $200-300, if really anything else was crucial)....( i had to borrow the money) -----anyway....the workers told me it was VERY dangerous if i drove the car without replacing the rotors....plus some other brake parts calipers? caliper wires? (which i have no idea what they are / i am not a mechanic)...plus a brake flush, etc..... -----so......it ended up to be OVER $700.00 in the end -----and i was forced / pressured to get financing through their sister comapny...and even now the brakes STILL are not right...they STILL make noise sometimes....i do not have the time or energy to go back and deak with them again...and, they will probably find more "NEEDED REPAIRS" once they get it up on the blocks....so i am out over $700....a total rip off....i am so mad at myself for ever going to any of those places
Labor time was over quoted, looked it up lol. Pads, and turning rotors calls for 1.8 hrs on that model, but if they had a on car lathe, it would have been 1.2, so they over charged time. But if it was in my shop, new hardware with the pads, blue lock tight on the caliper brackets bolts, and hub cleaning with every car, corporate mandates that just mean less comebacks in the end.
you can have the most bitchin' materials to perform an auto repair, but if you don't know what to do, it doesnt anything By the same token if you have extensive understanding about auto repairs, yet you are supplied with bottom of the barrel replacement components, how's that gonna last?
You don’t need a $150 snap on 3/8 ratchet to take a 13mm off, just fine with $25 craftsman. My point is, tools are important, but you don’t need the ultra very best. It’s experience and attention to detail and precision that counts
To better access the caliper pin I tried to turn the steering wheel, but I can't turn the steering wheel from inside the car, so I just take the rim off and turn it the rotor, did I damage anything
I was feeling lazy and I got a quote from pep boys last week for $260 to do the front pads only on my ‘05 gmc 1500. I said golly no thanks and went to autozone and changed the pads for less than 50. I had already had put in new bearings and new rotors last year.
I can replace both front disc pads in an hour or less. I replaced my ML 320 four rotors, pads, and sensors from ebay for $170 with 4 drilled rotors and ceramic pads. I spent 3/4 hours to replace all rotors and pads in order to do a great job. I had a hard time to loss a rotor tiny screw. Finally I used an impact Phillips bit holder and my air impact wrench to take it out in a second. The first tiny screw was difficult, the second, third, and fourth screws without problem.
I took my car to the local shop and they quoted me 450 for all breaks and 480 for all rotors. from my calculations from looking at parts prices online was around 160 for everything. The total is 980 from the prices the shop gave me, minus the total from online parts is 740$ they are pocketing
Its easier to mount the hanger then put the pads on, and the screamer goes on the inside but leading side. So if it's a rear mounted caliper put it on the bottom.
A good tip I learned was to crack the bleeder screw when retracting the pot so you don’t push the crappy contaminated fluid that was in the calipers back into the system. It usually comes out pretty nasty. This is especially a good idea if you’re abusing your brake system.
Don't do that unless you connect a tube to the bleeder and submerge it in a bottle of brake fluid. But great point. that oil sits in the caliper its whole life geting heat cycled and the last thing you want is that oil going back into the ABS valving($$$$).
I would love to see you change the front brake pads and rotors on my Bentley Continental GT. The procedure is just the same, but I would bet that it is impossible for you to do the job without a great deal of swearing and inappropriate language. By the way, the front rotors weigh about 50 pounds each. Massive.
$600 is cheap. My friend said his brakes were squeeling on his new(50k mile) highlander. I told him i would fix it for him(just sand the rust off the rotors and pad swap). He got charged $1200 dollars! They changed both front calipers and all the rotors at the Toyota dealer.
Good video buddy personally as a DIYer...... before putting the disc on I would’ve given it a good hit with Carby cleaner and regarding the hub it looked a bit rusty I would’ve spent 10 minutes buffing it spotless with a wire wheel to make sure the disc runs true - maybe a film of anti seaze on the hub for next time..... I like the way you lubricated everything When pushing the Pistons back in I like to block off the brake line crack the nipple and get the fluid out of the caliper itself because it always seems to be black and cooked....... But as a DIY person it’s a bit of a hobby and I don’t mind spending more time in a workshop setting totally different they’re all separate jobs and charged separately I get that all good Excellent that you use the torque wrench on the wheel nuts nobody does that these days
i did my brakes with no experience and it went fine, i mean how are you supposed to get experience without doing them? I looked at 3 or 4 videos on the subject and with that you got the info you need
This was a total hack job. It's a shame all of these people think this was a good brake job. He didn't event get the crust from underneath the clips. The brake pads will seize again. A good front or rear brake job takes about 1.5-2 hours and there's plenty of wire wheeling and greasing involved.
My 2 cents. The sliders did not appear seized but notice how you had to bang the pads free from the bracket. Rust jacking underneath the hardware shims can be a problem. For brakes use the internet.
I was thinking that 10 to 15 minutes was a bit quick but you did not really count jacking it up and when you said per side but I also thought you were doing all 4 not just one axle
I'm no mechanic but I'd of cleaned where the pads slide with a dream n a sanding wheel so it's down to bare metal and to make sure that there aren't any burrs. I'd also of cleand, all the old dusty grimy grease off the slider pins and clean the bore it slides in and out, so everything is spotless and use copper grease for everything. I use lock tight on ALL of the bolts. I clean any rust off, like the hub the wheel rides up against and put copper grease on it. When the disk is in place, I clean it with acetone and I also smear some copper grease on the disk face, where it butts up to the wheel. I also put copper grease all over the pads. I also clean where the piston touches the disk n smear some copper grease on the face of the piston. So. I clean everything that moves and put copper grease on it. Clean the disk with acetone. I put copper grease on stuff that'll make it easy to get off in the future. Like I said. I'm no mechanic, but I'd of done a much better job. But you were showing how quicky it can be done. Even though it wasn't done properly.
i have a 2013 Hyundai genesis, and the dealership estimated me a price of $575 for new front and back brakes. and only resurfacing my rotors. i havnt gone in yet but is that overpriced??
Why would you not collapse piston before you remove caliper? All the break job's I've done for the last 10 years that is the first thing I do. I think it's easier then trying to hold it then hold pad and clamp.
Paid $235 for set of brand new rotors and pads for all four wheels at advanced auto parts(13’ civic), paid my mechanic $180 for labor(kind of overpriced) happy with the money I ended up paying total.
We just paid 1000$ to replace 4 rotors and 4 sets of pads on our 2011 2wd ford ranger at the dealership in PEI Canada.The only extras were 2 seals costing 18 each Thats approx 750 American$
@broomsterm Thats my piont.Why did it cost 750$ more than what I could have done it for? I had a good reason for not doing it myself Think about what the reason could possibly be asshole
the first time i did brakes i didnt have any experience... many sets later ive saved thousands... still like the wear of drums hate doing them! I had a honda accord that peeled through rear disc brakes in like 30,000kms... weird... bright side rotors were less than 30 each and pads were just over 30
And you know why they tell you that you need all that? The flat rate system!!!! The guy doesn't make money on the oil change so he has to find it somewhere else. You can't blame him though because he may have kids to feed and keep a roof over there head. It's the car manufacturers make the labor times for repairs so low.
Damn I wonder this is how doctors do the surgery too?!?! If it’s not theirs, they don’t care about the quality. Just cleaning and lubricating all the parts alone cost me over thirty minutes, looking for the torque specs for bolts cost me another ten minutes.
It always takes longer the first time you do it. On my car, there was a parking brake release routine, cleaning the calipers with a wire drill bit and painting them took a lot of time (and was a messy job), replaced and bled the brake fluid. If you don't have a lift, jacking each corner takes some time as well. Still, even if it takes you 4 hours to do the whole car, you are saving a ton of money.
Here's a ripoff not mentioned. I went to a shop that told me my calipers were locked (I believe it as the brakes were not working well even though I had the fronts done 6 months prior). However, the big lie was I needed new Calipers so a 380 rear brake job turns into 780. I had other repairs as well but I won't get into that. I called around and the HONEST guy told me it's highly unlikely I need to replace the calipers unless they are leaking and in most cases he can clean them up, grease-em and they'd work fine. Got the rear brakes done for 250.00 with new pads and rotors. Car brakes like it's new. Do you guys know if the old caliper is locked trick is used that often?
Guide Pins needed cleaning, pad guides need replaced or cleaned. Also, you forgot about opening the brake fluid resevior cap, so that pressure can be released before retracting calipers. Other than that, you did a great job.
Not sure what your saying. Never seen an easler. Is that a tool? Anyway, look at our conversation and his and my replies, before you reply. The only thing I understood from your misspelled words, is your last sentence, which is correct. He is good and very honest. Have A Blessed Day, and learn to spell please. I do this work all the time. I'm here to give my 2 cents if I feel. My reason is to help those that watch, and have never done this, some additional direction. I felt my info, in addition to this video gave a more complete look at what would need to be done. I also invite people to add to my videos, that may have a different technique. No one is perfect.
If the brakes haven't been messed with, meaning fluid added you do not need to open the reservoir. The rubber cap is open to atmosphere on the back side so the fluid coming back will just push that diaphragm back where it belongs. Now if the C-clamp stops before it should then you know you need to pop the cap and be prepared for brake fluid all over the place. At least have to suck some out. Personally I like to replace old fluid esp. if it is not clear. Any cloudiness and I just bleed it through.
I've probably changed 1500 sets of brakes(I'm 42 years old). I rarely do more than he did in the video and have never damaged a piston boot. Are you making a statement about the quality of engineering behind Honda parts for serviceability? Seems like a shitty design if you can't do a simple pad swap with out having tear apart a caliper every brake service. Does your generation still rebuild calipers or do you folks just change parts?
Forgot to include paper work time, time to rack car up, paper to cover carpets and seat, tool selection, car porters, shop expenses, time to get parts and on and on. You might be an ok tech but you dont know jack about what it takes to run a dealership. At any dealership there will be a service writer, a car porter, parts person, book keeper, cashier. And you did not test drive the car after you were done.
Dealer sneaks, they include things like free oil changes now sometimes, which is just an excuse to find other things wrong with your car so they can charge that stealership repair.
tell me if I'm wrong but $600 seems like a reasonable amount for a shop to charge... parts(no shity parts) $200...labor 2 hours for a guy making $50 an hour(he'll spend 2 hours fixing a stuck bolt walking around talking to his friends or on lunch) then $200 On shop fees like paying bills buying tools, fixing things around the shop, rent, paying the person to stand up front and check people in, and other small stuff like paying for the benefits for the works and the rest the owner can pocket if he even makes money that day. am I wrong?
If that seems reasonable to you then go ahead and pay it and feel good about it. I have been a mechanic most of my life and I don't think it is reasonable at all. However I'd be glad to work on your car if you think it is. Are you wrong? Where do you draw the line on reasonable? Maybe he should hire some people to show you to a nice chair. Get 15 recliners for the customer waiting area. All he has to do is charge for more hours and you'd be glad to pay it. What scares me is the ridiculous incompetence of some of the people they hire as mechanics. And no passing some test for ASE certification does not make you a great mechanic. It means you read a book and passed a test. It doesn't mean you understand the physics behind the system you are working on or even know how to use a wrench.
up here in canada those screws holding the rotor are a real pain... ive done 4 cars now that had to drill them all out... never put them back in... damn things
Jordan, Can You Video a Front Brake and Rotor Job for a Rear wheel drive GMC sonoma or S10 ? The New Rotor has 2 wheel bearings and RED grease You have to Pack into NEW bearings if you need them. Looks like a HARD job and important things to do and replace !?!?
I just payed 800 for my break job. 2006 Honda Civic. Not even a year ago I had to pay 700 for the same break job. My pads were metal to metal. Break jobs are expensive man smh
Great video, thank you! Was hoping to do this myself first time, but probably not. Not without proper working space and tools. Does it require wheel alignment after replacing front rotors and pads?
This guy is awesome and he tells it like it is… Canadian Tire quoted me 3 hours labor on this. I have been working on cars since I was 14. Did my first engine rebuild in shop class in grade 9. I asked the mechanic why they were quoting me 3 hours for a job I can with no air tools in 40 minutes to an hour. He said that's just what they charge... ridiculous! Same thing happened at Dueck in Richmond when my friends starter died on her vehicle... they quoted her $800. I called them and asked them what on earth were they charging her for.. he said a starter was $350 and they were charging 3 hours labor at $150 and hour.. I told him I could buy a new Delco Starter for $125 and install it in a half an hour... or even better I could buy a new solenoid for $25 and replace it and fix the vehicle in less than an hour.. he then said we don't replace solenoids.. but we can do the whole job for $600.. lol I think the point this guy is making is that the prices most dealers and many mechanics are charging is highway robbery.. True Story great video
Because shops have 3 manager and 3 technicians or mechanics.
Yes that is how we do it in Ontario, I always remove the stainless sliders on the caliper bracket and replace but not before wire brushing or lightly sandblasting the bracket first .
Also the coated corrosion resistant rotors are worth the extra $$ . Great video Rich
You mentioned if I don't have experience doing brakes, I shouldn't do my own brakes. Lesson learned, I'll get experience by doing other people's brakes!
Offer to do your boss' brakes for free to get some experience.
nah. Do your own brakes. If you have experience working on a car or mechanic stuff in general, brake jobs is uncomplicated as long as you actually know how to do it. That's not something that comes with experience - that is something that comes from reading the shop manual (or a haynes or similar book).
I did my first brake job on my car when I was 15. I had one guy giving me some pointers. He said, use the right tools and don't be afraid. Not complicated at all. Will take more than 10 minutes tho if you are not used to it/don't have a lift to put the car on. But not complicated. It's something everyone who knows a bit about mechanic stuff can do if they really want to.
And nowdays with youtube and internet haha. It would take a lot of effort to not find the information you need for free :D.
@@LifeOnHoth If no one pointed newbies how to change brake pads, they put wrong side, no lube guide pins, and ect...
Brakes are a gateway job. You bribe a car maintenance friend with pizza & beer to guide you. Literally a whole new hobby will open up for you. Peace.
Can't get experience if you don't get your hands in there.
My Chevy dealer only quoted me $480 for the front brakes pads and rotors. My mechanic quoted me $380. Both of those were for mid grade parts.
I went on Amazon and got AC Delco Professional pads fronts & rears for $142, also got a reduced price for rotors from Automotive Warehouse, coated against corrosion for fronts and rears for $140.
Paid $30 for a brake piston kit from Amazon.
Installed the brakes myself and saved at least a couple hundred dollars.
Did my own front brakes and rotors with quality parts for $120.00. Could have got by cheaper using lower quality parts, but brakes are not a place to cut corners.
I spent about $60 on parts and about$100 on tools and supplies. I even posted videos of it on my channel 😄
@@_Wai_Wai_ all i see are gaming vids
@@ARCSTREAMS yeah because he's full of it
Thanks man. They wanted 1k for all 4 pads and rotors just for labor alone. I was like effff that and asked around instead. Ended up getting my co-worker do all for $120 and the parts were just $195. Saved me a ton of money
1k for 4 pads and rotors... what a rip off..
A buddy of mines charged me $100 to change both my rotors and brake pads on all 4 tires and tbh I didn't know if he was charging me too much or not cause I wasn't too familiar with these prices its my first car (im only 18) turns out he didn't charge me too much after all
Mr2x I wish I had friends like that lol I have take it to my local mechanic this week :(
@@cybersecurity4566 Pair (front or rear) of good quality rotors and pads (sold as 'kit') starts from $300-$400... just the parts
Just found deboss garage. Nice change of pace from those others who are heavy on the the "personality". I like the straightforward approach.
$600 for civic pads and rotors. That makes me fume. If you have a family, and you are letting this happen because you don't like, don't know how to, or don't have the time to work on your own cars. Then you have a responsibility to stop this from happening. Mechanics are the kings of differential pricing (which is usually not illegal). Meaning if you look like the type of schmuck that would pay $1200 for a brake job, then guess what, your brake job is going to cost $1200. If you look like you will pay $600, then its your lucky day. Learn how your car works so that you can be more independent and look out for your family and yourself. Even if you don't do the work, you'll make more options for yourself and know what's happening. On a practical note, as inconvenient as it might be...never..ever...go to a mechanic in your work clothes. Especially if you work a white color professional job. Always go in your crappiest, dirtiest garage working clothes. Don't talk about which neighborhood you live in, or other personal details. They are sizing you up before you ever walk in the door, and with every detail you share. You can't change them. But you can change you.
Its not fair to stereotype every mechanic this way and it is actually offensive. I agree with doing your homework 100% but we are not all crooks.
Apologies. I was a bit heavy handed (probably the most strongly worded comment I've ever left on youtube). But its a terrible situation, and one that I am passionate about. Hard watching family, friends, and neighbors get taken. I do my own work, and when ever possible, I offer to teach my friends, family, and neighbors to do at least some of their own work (oil changes, brakes, etc), or even to just help them do it to save money. On the flip side, I have helped 3 grown men fix their vehicles recently, and they were all afraid to touch their own vehicle (I don't mean nervous or intimidated...but afraid). To be fair, I find that almost just as frustrating.
There's a reason that "mechanics" have a reputation for being con artists. It happens often enough that those stories are either first or second hand knowledge. It happens because garages know that people are uneducated about vehicles, especially these days, and they can get away with it. Americans can not live without cars and mechanics know that as well. Then there's the 20/20 episodes that lend further evidence of bad companies pushing illegal practices.
If you're an honest mechanic, that's great. But the temptation to be corrupt as a mechanic in this country is just too easy. I like Jordan's advice and your best resources are your coworkers, friends, and family. Find a couple reputable mechanics BEFORE you need one!!!
That same temptation is just as common with the average person you meet on the street. A good share of people are pathological liars. Work as a police officer or a flagger on a road closed to local traffic and you will be surprised how many people are not only pathological liars but are also dumb enough to think you won't find out. This is especially interesting if you have taken even a basic class in criminology because ironically those are similar thinking patterns of the common criminal.
Jordan Moore - I think... this issue was the "dealership".
Don't get me wrong I know a few underhanded shops, but in the most part the independent shops are less crooked.
Never once have I been in and out of a dealership without being recommended a new car. That's what they do, they sell cars. They might make a slight on mechanics but overall there money is in the vehicles.
Best to
A - Check with multiple shops.
B - Keep the dealers at arms length.
Nothing worse than being coaxed into parting ways with your car because it has over 150k and is "unreliable" (in a dealers opinion)
Should have cleaned the rust off the calipers where the pads go. Also was there no brake hardware that came with the pads? Why didn't you clean the guide pins?
He did what the dealer would have at far lower cost. I would have done the additional things ypou mentioned as well if they were needed. He was basically trying to show you how badly you are getting screwed.
I'd have done that too and finished off by cleaning the surfaces with brake cleaner to make sure no oils or grease were left on anything. BUT most shops "don't sweat the small stuff" as my boss used to say. :)
Greasing slide pins should be fine.. cars not too old!
Also what hardware is it you were expecting to see? I've never gotten "hardware" with my pads.. unless your talking about redoing the drum (emergency) brake?
Probably referring to the anti rattle clips.
Add another 10 to 15 minutes to clean the rust from the bracket, install new clips, clean and lube slide pins, clean rust from hub surface, lube hub surface. In Vermont they salt the road like crazy, new pads would stick if extra prep was not done. Still, extra 15 minutes per wheel doesn't get you anywhere near that dealer price. Thanks for the video! Great heads up to avoid being scammed.
I hate brake jobs, but, I’ll continue doing them for parts and a bottle of whiskey for my friends and family. No one deserves a $900 brake job bill on a $1500 vehicle.
Can I be your friend..so you can also work on my car too.. these mechanics are really ripping off novice customers.. I will get you 4 bottles of whiskey... only if you live in Canada.. what do you think, my new friend..
Hey, your alright!
That's a sibling that you keep closer.
I just found out im your long lost cousin. Got a bottle if Jack Daniels for the next family reunion!
Tip, you can use a screwdriver/etc to push the piston back before you take the pads out.. Be careful if you are only changing pads. But if changing both pads and discs, then go crazy.. Just remember to crack the brake fluid cap before pushing the piston back... saves a lot of time stuffing around with other tools.
I got some drilled and slotted EBC rotors and pads for about 250 - i HIGHLY recommend them!. It didn't take a long time at all to install them and they stop SO well!
I bought a 2014 RAM used (I know ... what was I thinking?). 2 weeks later I noticed the e-brake cable hanging low. Yes. I use it. It needed a recall done so I asked them to check out the e-brake. They said (and I confirmed) that the e-brakes were full of rust and dirt and I would need a full rear brake job. $610 was the asking price. I told them to squat on it and was pissed they didn't do them when they did their safety inspection before resale. That is something they make a big deal about. Anyway, they had loosened up the e-brakes and I laid off them for 8 months until I got to my brother-in-laws farm in Ohio. He is a trained diesel mechanic and does 98% of his own work. He showed me the ropes on how to change out the brakes. I had to replace the rear calipers, all 4 rotors, pads, clean up the front calipers, and replace the e-brakes. I did all of that for $330 including "life-time" warrantied calipers and premium pads and rotors. I change the fuel filter and installed step rails while I had it on the lift. All I had to do was drive tractor for a bit, help with move the wheat truck a couple miles down the road, and swap out a Ford front wheel bearing.
I like my dealer but their are not my friends or family. They do a good job but they can save the high dollar amounts for the high rollers.
Actually, you remind me of my brother-in-law. Always has a project (or two or three) and is never clean after 6 AM.
I too own a 14 RAM blackout edition...while in for a recall (I knew my brakes were getting near shot, started the typical grind and squeal) they did my entire rear pads and rotors (oem parts) for $325...which isnt bad, (they first said $400...I told them I would pay $300...then somehow they magically had some magic coupon get me to my price lol
Canadian English is fascinating. What I call a "breaker bar", you call a "johnson bar". Here in the US, a "johnson bar" is the lever you use to manually engage the trailer service brakes on a truck with air brakes.
Wes Johnson no one calls it johnson bar in canada either
Canadian here and never heard Johnson Bar before either. Canada is huge though. It's probably a more regional thing. As for engaging trailer brakes, I typically hear that called "The spike".
Wow! LOL
I've called it a Johnson bar my whole life.. don't know why but that's just the nic name for her.
Breaker bar in the UK too
Sorry Ponyboy, but there are lots of people (in Ontario at least ) that call it a Johnson bar. We may not know why we call it that, but we do. When we get a funny look for calling it that we just say" you know, a breaker bar".
This mechanic was absolutely refreshing to watch!
Love the channel rich but I'm a brake specialist and you missed several crucial steps like cleaning parts properly, cleaning slides and slide wholes most importantly clamping off the brake hose, opening the bleeder and ejecting old fluid out the bleeder and not pushing old fluid back through abs unit as it's how they fail, always clamp ur brake hoses and eject old fluid and top up resivour with new fluid!!
Our shop charged $100 per axle plus parts. My personal best was in the driveway on my own car, 22 minutes, front disc and rear drum. Lot of that has to do w/ familiarity, you're not rechecking stuff you just dealt with last change or looking for other problems as with cars of others.
I can't believe I just liked a troll response.
Did my first brake job on an import in 1987. It was a 1982 Toyota Tercel. My soon-to-be wife's car. I replaced everything including the calipers. Took me all of two and a half hours. Easiest and quickest brake job ever and I'm no professional. Job was done and tested. I'm looking at this thing with my jaw on the ground. How can this be so simple??
Oh. By the way. I made one of those impact drivers in shop class back in the day.
Thanks Rich!
Hey Rich, I'm some random guy on the internet. I've watched a bunch of car repair videos on RUclips; I also change my own oil, and I've done my own brakes a few times. So given my vast experience with automotive equipment, I'm going to tell you what you should have done on this brake job....
FYI - I'm thinking about starting my own RUclips channel. And when I do, I'll be sure to come back and grace you with my expertise on what you should be doing on your channel too. Anyway, I'd love to get together some time and have a beer - I've got all sorts of unsolicited advice to share.
I know of a young fellow who was charged six hundred dollars to replace headlight bulbs on his truck from his dealer things are just plain out of hand. We need more filthy rich's in the world, real world mechanics helping real world people save a few dollars every now and then. I have always worked on my own vehicles and my friends cause I like to help others when my experience can allow me to. Your truly filthy Lee not rich lol
Only slight recommendations: 1) Retrack the piston of the caliper while on top of the OLD rotor so you don't accidentally damage the new rotor. 2) You should use a torque wrench on those mounting bolts and even add some loctite. The gutentight is fine, but I've seen a bolt missing from a brake job. 3) Should clean the hub with a wire brush before mounting the new rotor....just recommendations since the DIY doesn't have to race the clock.
True I've replaced many caliper mounts due to overtightened/broken caliper bolts.
This guy gives all mechanics a bad name. I’m an ASE certified technician and I can tell you he hacked this job. Talk about contamination! It was a nice attempt at cleaning the rotor but he came nowhere close to doing it correctly. How do you call it clean when you put your greasy hands all over it after you were done? Not to mention the cleaning technique was incorrect. Plus he put his greasy fingers all over the new linings. That means all that grease in now imbedded in those brand new pads!
Why didn’t he at least replace the brake hardware?
The brake grease used on the external surfaces of the caliper bracket will wash out during the first rainy day the car sees.
Why didn’t he clean the hub?
Why didn’t he at least mic the rotors to see if he could resurface them?
Also, he should have cleaned the corrosion on the centering hub for the wheel.
I love how he is going to torque the lug nuts but nothing else.
What a joke!
You are much better off going to the dealership to have a factory trained technician work on your vehicle. You are less likely to find a hack.
Make sure to soak everything in brake clean, especially if you have a greasy handprint on the rotor like at 12:10 ;). Also be careful not to use too much grease on where the pads slide, dont want the excess ending up on the rotor/pads.
Crazy that they wanted basically 4 hours shop rate to do front brakes. Techs make plenty on brake jobs even when its a flat 1 hour book rate.
My shop charged me $412 for backs, my friend helped me change the front pads and rotors, I saved $300. Sweet!
tractor fone Wow... and I thought the $225 for my front ones were a little steep.
I auto repair world, brake job is a big scandal with innocent customers. I don't know how to say thanks.
The last time I had the front brake pads and rotors replaced on my 2002 Accord five years ago my independent mechanic charged me about $300 USD. He used factory Honda pads I am not sure about the rotors. Since then I have not had any issues with the brakes. I will find out if they need replacing next month when I go in for service and NY State safety/emissions inspection. On this car I have never had to change the rear drum brake shoes they are factory original after 18 years of service.
The dealer just has a larger per hour rate than most regular shops, plus the oem parts are more expensive. They quoted 1200 for a friend of mine for this same car. It included rotors, pads and two calipers.
It seems to me that dealerships are absolutely crooked and independent chain shops will charge less, but also beyond what is reasonable. It's the small shops like Deboss Garage that you can trust.
90% of people live there entire life and never figure this out.
You know I'd like to support my mechanic but seeing this makes me question his charges any suggestions as to how to address the situation? I was charged 2 hours labor for a new set of rear brake pads one rotor. The caliber wore out the pad on one side so both sides had to be changed. I need more work done but now I feel I can't trust his prices and want to talk about it without breaking the relationship as he has been my mechanic for many years...
WOW, what a rarity, I just witnessed an honest car mechanic...THANKS !
appreciate the tutorial and effort you done man
I am a diesel mechanic like you rich
I work on everything and work on air brakes daily at the shop . I also work on vehicles at my house and I have 300 boxes of brakes I’ve changed on cars for warranty. I only charge $20 American for each wheel in labor . I stay swamped lol I need to start making videos . Including air brake
'after you finish pump your brakes a few times' he says. Ha! I live on a hill and forgot this essential detail in the warm glow of saving money. One of the most buttock clenchingly awful moments of my life followed as brake pedal went straight to the floor, travelling down the hill to the sharp bend where it joins main road . Won't make that mistake again. Thanks for the video, v comprehensive.
Good tutorial, well done but things can go sideways if you can't get those two screws off the rotors because their seized or the heads are stripped or both. Same with the rest of the hardware if it's on too tight or seized it can make this otherwise straightforward job alot harder.
Perhaps a video on what to do when you encounter seized hardware and how to get it off.
Just for good measure I clean the slides and clip points with Emery cloth but love you deboss a real down to earth mechanic dealers just quoted My mother 5000.00 for brake's on her mb ml 63 amg. I did it for 400.00
I understand and agree that dealers are too expensive. Having said that where i work we charge near $200 us for a brake and rotor replacement. We also clean the hubs and coat with fluid film as well as run a tap through the 6mm screw holes. Caliper brackets get media blasted where the pads mate (your hot rotor was from the rust binding the pads, not the slides) and we clean and regrease the slides. This takes time but is a very good repair. Remember not all things are equal. remember that you get what you pay for in some cases.
its interesting to watch a guy that knows what he is doing and it only takes 10 minutes. (i do my own brakes, but it takes me double the time) But I have saved probably about $3,000.00 or more doing my own brakes on my last 3 cars instead of letting a dealership do them. Well done video!
When I used to work at the dealers, I used to hate when people would get their brakes done there. Such a fucking rip off.
Might as well add a 120$ brake flush with that. That way the service writer can get their kick back.
Okay I've gotta know, so if anyone can help with this, I would be grateful! How much should it cost to replace BOTH front brakes on a 02 Nissian Altima 4dr, 6 cylinders? Because I just got an estimate of 300 for both sides. Not sure if that's a deal or not. Thanks in advance.
I prefer Febi Bilstein rotors and pads. High quality, made in Germany.
Total brake service: 4 rotors + 8 pads + heat resistant copper grease ($130). Time and enthusiasm: priceless :-)
I learned about bad/seized slide pins the hard way
I do my own brakes and get a discount for parts at o’riellys because I work at a automotive shop, I’m only 17 did my rear brakes for 85$, never done brakes before and did just fine
Did you bleed when you changed brake pads?
@@davidpence9653 no just pumped the brakes a few times to get the caliper piston to release
If you "know" that your brakes are worn, due to symptoms noticeable to the driver, it's already "too late". You can save yourself the cost of brake rotors if you replace the pads BEFORE symptoms occur. ALL of my "every day" cars have their original rotors. . . . . . . . . NOTE . . . most of the European cars I have worked on, for some reason, wear out rotors, often times BEFORE the pads wear out, especially Mercedes Benz vehicles and they use ORGANIC brake pads!
Says make sure you have an experienced tech do it... but doesn’t clean off the hub surface? Yeah makes sense to me
Every brake job i do i replace pads rotors and calipers and do a brake flush for my customers to guarantee a long brake job. My brake jobs i do for my customers normally last 5 years. I do akebono pada with centric rotors
i am a semi-disabled grandmother....my regular mechanic wasn't available, so i went to mavis tires for a simple, routine repair...for basic front brake pads...which were advertised as being $89.99 on sale...(i was prepared to pay up to $200-300, if really anything else was crucial)....( i had to borrow the money)
-----anyway....the workers told me it was VERY dangerous if i drove the car without replacing the rotors....plus some other brake parts calipers? caliper wires? (which i have no idea what they are / i am not a mechanic)...plus a brake flush, etc.....
-----so......it ended up to be OVER $700.00 in the end
-----and i was forced / pressured to get financing through their sister comapny...and even now the brakes STILL are not right...they STILL make noise sometimes....i do not have the time or energy to go back and deak with them again...and, they will probably find more "NEEDED REPAIRS" once they get it up on the blocks....so i am out over $700....a total rip off....i am so mad at myself for ever going to any of those places
Labor time was over quoted, looked it up lol.
Pads, and turning rotors calls for 1.8 hrs on that model, but if they had a on car lathe, it would have been 1.2, so they over charged time.
But if it was in my shop, new hardware with the pads, blue lock tight on the caliper brackets bolts, and hub cleaning with every car, corporate mandates that just mean less comebacks in the end.
A guy once told me you can't perform a quality repair unless you charge a lot. I told him he was a theif and he was giving mechanics a bad name.
you can have the most bitchin' materials to perform an auto repair, but if you don't know what to do, it doesnt anything
By the same token if you have extensive understanding about auto repairs, yet you are supplied with bottom of the barrel replacement components, how's that gonna last?
You don’t need a $150 snap on 3/8 ratchet to take a 13mm off, just fine with $25 craftsman. My point is, tools are important, but you don’t need the ultra very best. It’s experience and attention to detail and precision that counts
To better access the caliper pin I tried to turn the steering wheel, but I can't turn the steering wheel from inside the car, so I just take the rim off and turn it the rotor, did I damage anything
I was feeling lazy and I got a quote from pep boys last week for $260 to do the front pads only on my ‘05 gmc 1500. I said golly no thanks and went to autozone and changed the pads for less than 50. I had already had put in new bearings and new rotors last year.
I can replace both front disc pads in an hour or less. I replaced my ML 320 four rotors, pads, and sensors from ebay for $170 with 4 drilled rotors and ceramic pads. I spent 3/4 hours to replace all rotors and pads in order to do a great job. I had a hard time to loss a rotor tiny screw. Finally I used an impact Phillips bit holder and my air impact wrench to take it out in a second. The first tiny screw was difficult, the second, third, and fourth screws without problem.
I took my car to the local shop and they quoted me 450 for all breaks and 480 for all rotors. from my calculations from looking at parts prices online was around 160 for everything. The total is 980 from the prices the shop gave me, minus the total from online parts is 740$ they are pocketing
In Ontario rotors do not last they rust just parked and wearing out pads fast remove rust every time drive, love that salty road
Its easier to mount the hanger then put the pads on, and the screamer goes on the inside but leading side. So if it's a rear mounted caliper put it on the bottom.
I need my brakes done. Were are you located and how much you charge.
A good tip I learned was to crack the bleeder screw when retracting the pot so you don’t push the crappy contaminated fluid that was in the calipers back into the system. It usually comes out pretty nasty.
This is especially a good idea if you’re abusing your brake system.
Don't do that unless you connect a tube to the bleeder and submerge it in a bottle of brake fluid. But great point. that oil sits in the caliper its whole life geting heat cycled and the last thing you want is that oil going back into the ABS valving($$$$).
One mechanic quoted me for 450cad to change all the brakes for my hyundai 2011. Is it pricey?
I would love to see you change the front brake pads and rotors on my Bentley Continental GT. The procedure is just the same, but I would bet that it is impossible for you to do the job without a great deal of swearing and inappropriate language. By the way, the front rotors weigh about 50 pounds each. Massive.
My machanic wanted $300 just for front brake pads.
Good advice.
I agree with the others. What should a brake repair cost generally?
Kitabananas Brownie i charge $50 plus parts. Working from home.
Thanks. Not doing it myself. Just wanna know what’s up since I need new brakes. Watched it while washing dishes. Good information.
$600 is cheap. My friend said his brakes were squeeling on his new(50k mile) highlander. I told him i would fix it for him(just sand the rust off the rotors and pad swap). He got charged $1200 dollars! They changed both front calipers and all the rotors at the Toyota dealer.
Good video buddy
personally as a DIYer...... before putting the disc on I would’ve given it a good hit with Carby cleaner and regarding the hub it looked a bit rusty I would’ve spent 10 minutes buffing it spotless with a wire wheel to make sure the disc runs true - maybe a film of anti seaze on the hub for next time.....
I like the way you lubricated everything
When pushing the Pistons back in I like to block off the brake line crack the nipple and get the fluid out of the caliper itself because it always seems to be black and cooked.......
But as a DIY person it’s a bit of a hobby and I don’t mind spending more time in a workshop setting totally different they’re all separate jobs and charged separately I get that
all good
Excellent that you use the torque wrench on the wheel nuts nobody does that these days
So what should a set of front only rotors and pads cost? Is Midas fairly reasonable?
kinda looked like someone done put a new cv axel in that thing not to long ago - how many miles that car got on her ? and great job i say
I saw that and wondered, if they wanted $600 to change pads/rotors, I'd hate to know what he paid to put a CV in it.
i did my brakes with no experience and it went fine, i mean how are you supposed to get experience without doing them? I looked at 3 or 4 videos on the subject and with that you got the info you need
This was a total hack job. It's a shame all of these people think this was a good brake job. He didn't event get the crust from underneath the clips. The brake pads will seize again. A good front or rear brake job takes about 1.5-2 hours and there's plenty of wire wheeling and greasing involved.
My 2 cents. The sliders did not appear seized but notice how you had to bang the pads free from the bracket. Rust jacking underneath the hardware shims can be a problem. For brakes use the internet.
Pull the opposite end of the slide pin leaving the rubber attached to the caliper. Carefully use a skinny flat to break the seal. :)
I was thinking that 10 to 15 minutes was a bit quick but you did not really count jacking it up and when you said per side but I also thought you were doing all 4 not just one axle
1st step,,never and i mean never go to a dealership for anything unless you got warrantee,,pure fucking rip off
I'm no mechanic but I'd of cleaned where the pads slide with a dream n a sanding wheel so it's down to bare metal and to make sure that there aren't any burrs. I'd also of cleand, all the old dusty grimy grease off the slider pins and clean the bore it slides in and out, so everything is spotless and use copper grease for everything. I use lock tight on ALL of the bolts. I clean any rust off, like the hub the wheel rides up against and put copper grease on it. When the disk is in place, I clean it with acetone and I also smear some copper grease on the disk face, where it butts up to the wheel. I also put copper grease all over the pads. I also clean where the piston touches the disk n smear some copper grease on the face of the piston.
So. I clean everything that moves and put copper grease on it. Clean the disk with acetone. I put copper grease on stuff that'll make it easy to get off in the future.
Like I said. I'm no mechanic, but I'd of done a much better job. But you were showing how quicky it can be done. Even though it wasn't done properly.
did not spray break cleaner on rotar when he was done ?? i saw finger prints on the rotar
i have a 2013 Hyundai genesis, and the dealership estimated me a price of $575 for new front and back brakes. and only resurfacing my rotors. i havnt gone in yet but is that overpriced??
Why would you not collapse piston before you remove caliper? All the break job's I've done for the last 10 years that is the first thing I do. I think it's easier then trying to hold it then hold pad and clamp.
Paid $235 for set of brand new rotors and pads for all four wheels at advanced auto parts(13’ civic), paid my mechanic $180 for labor(kind of overpriced) happy with the money I ended up paying total.
We just paid 1000$ to replace 4 rotors and 4 sets of pads on our 2011 2wd ford ranger at the dealership in PEI Canada.The only extras were 2 seals costing 18 each Thats approx 750 American$
@broomsterm Thats my piont.Why did it cost 750$ more than what I could have done it for? I had a good reason for not doing it myself Think about what the reason could possibly be asshole
the first time i did brakes i didnt have any experience... many sets later ive saved thousands... still like the wear of drums hate doing them! I had a honda accord that peeled through rear disc brakes in like 30,000kms... weird... bright side rotors were less than 30 each and pads were just over 30
And you know why they tell you that you need all that? The flat rate system!!!! The guy doesn't make money on the oil change so he has to find it somewhere else. You can't blame him though because he may have kids to feed and keep a roof over there head. It's the car manufacturers make the labor times for repairs so low.
Damn I wonder this is how doctors do the surgery too?!?! If it’s not theirs, they don’t care about the quality. Just cleaning and lubricating all the parts alone cost me over thirty minutes, looking for the torque specs for bolts cost me another ten minutes.
It always takes longer the first time you do it. On my car, there was a parking brake release routine, cleaning the calipers with a wire drill bit and painting them took a lot of time (and was a messy job), replaced and bled the brake fluid. If you don't have a lift, jacking each corner takes some time as well. Still, even if it takes you 4 hours to do the whole car, you are saving a ton of money.
Here's a ripoff not mentioned. I went to a shop that told me my calipers were locked (I believe it as the brakes were not working well even though I had the fronts done 6 months prior). However, the big lie was I needed new Calipers so a 380 rear brake job turns into 780. I had other repairs as well but I won't get into that. I called around and the HONEST guy told me it's highly unlikely I need to replace the calipers unless they are leaking and in most cases he can clean them up, grease-em and they'd work fine. Got the rear brakes done for 250.00 with new pads and rotors. Car brakes like it's new. Do you guys know if the old caliper is locked trick is used that often?
Guide Pins needed cleaning, pad guides need replaced or cleaned. Also, you forgot about opening the brake fluid resevior cap, so that pressure can be released before retracting calipers. Other than that, you did a great job.
Sooperdooper74 I also use anti seize on the hub behind the rotor
Sweet!
He is doing what the dealer does, not necessairily what he would do. Think about that. Seems like a really good guy and an honest mechanic.
Not sure what your saying. Never seen an easler. Is that a tool? Anyway, look at our conversation and his and my replies, before you reply. The only thing I understood from your misspelled words, is your last sentence, which is correct. He is good and very honest. Have A Blessed Day, and learn to spell please. I do this work all the time. I'm here to give my 2 cents if I feel. My reason is to help those that watch, and have never done this, some additional direction. I felt my info, in addition to this video gave a more complete look at what would need to be done. I also invite people to add to my videos, that may have a different technique. No one is perfect.
If the brakes haven't been messed with, meaning fluid added you do not need to open the reservoir. The rubber cap is open to atmosphere on the back side so the fluid coming back will just push that diaphragm back where it belongs. Now if the C-clamp stops before it should then you know you need to pop the cap and be prepared for brake fluid all over the place. At least have to suck some out. Personally I like to replace old fluid esp. if it is not clear. Any cloudiness and I just bleed it through.
Damn, you do this like I comb my hair! :/
Why don’t you use OEM Honda parts?
2 months later it probably ended up in a Dealership for brake noise and torn piston boot, nothing beats quality OEM Honda pads and rotors
Still going. It's the editors car. We could do this brake job about 10 times for the cost of one dealership
I've probably changed 1500 sets of brakes(I'm 42 years old). I rarely do more than he did in the video and have never damaged a piston boot. Are you making a statement about the quality of engineering behind Honda parts for serviceability? Seems like a shitty design if you can't do a simple pad swap with out having tear apart a caliper every brake service. Does your generation still rebuild calipers or do you folks just change parts?
Forgot to include paper work time, time to rack car up, paper to cover carpets and seat, tool selection, car porters, shop expenses, time to get parts and on and on. You might be an ok tech but you dont know jack about what it takes to run a dealership. At any dealership there will be a service writer, a car porter, parts person, book keeper, cashier. And you did not test drive the car after you were done.
Paid $1300 Canadian at dealer for this same job.
Dealer sneaks, they include things like free oil changes now sometimes, which is just an excuse to find other things wrong with your car so they can charge that stealership repair.
tell me if I'm wrong but $600 seems like a reasonable amount for a shop to charge... parts(no shity parts) $200...labor 2 hours for a guy making $50 an hour(he'll spend 2 hours fixing a stuck bolt walking around talking to his friends or on lunch) then $200 On shop fees like paying bills buying tools, fixing things around the shop, rent, paying the person to stand up front and check people in, and other small stuff like paying for the benefits for the works and the rest the owner can pocket if he even makes money that day. am I wrong?
If that seems reasonable to you then go ahead and pay it and feel good about it. I have been a mechanic most of my life and I don't think it is reasonable at all. However I'd be glad to work on your car if you think it is.
Are you wrong? Where do you draw the line on reasonable? Maybe he should hire some people to show you to a nice chair. Get 15 recliners for the customer waiting area. All he has to do is charge for more hours and you'd be glad to pay it. What scares me is the ridiculous incompetence of some of the people they hire as mechanics. And no passing some test for ASE certification does not make you a great mechanic. It means you read a book and passed a test. It doesn't mean you understand the physics behind the system you are working on or even know how to use a wrench.
up here in canada those screws holding the rotor are a real pain... ive done 4 cars now that had to drill them all out... never put them back in... damn things
Dealers are always high / work is not always better
Azone pads i bought said made in india. Not sure how good they are but they fit in the bracket with no filing needed.
Jordan, Can You Video a Front Brake and Rotor Job for a Rear wheel drive GMC sonoma or S10 ? The New Rotor has 2 wheel bearings and RED grease You have to Pack into NEW bearings if you need them. Looks like a HARD job and important things to do and replace !?!?
Excellent. Thanks for this.
I have Mini Cooper country man 2014, the local shop charged $750 for parts and labour
Mistake.....silicon paste on pins and COPPER paste on pads(friction part)and (on metal side also)against vibrations.....👍
I just payed 800 for my break job. 2006 Honda Civic. Not even a year ago I had to pay 700 for the same break job. My pads were metal to metal. Break jobs are expensive man smh
This is one amazing mechanic!
Great video, thank you! Was hoping to do this myself first time, but probably not. Not without proper working space and tools. Does it require wheel alignment after replacing front rotors and pads?
No and trust me u can do it I finally did mine in the driveway last month and my gf about a week ago