These frozen guide pins are usually caused by a damaged or mis-installed boot. If moisture gets past, it will eventually gum up and prevent the pin from floating properly. A wire wheel works wonders for cleaning the pins. Also don't forget to cleanup the bores as 1/2 the problem is inside too!
You can chuck the slide pins in a cordless drill and use 100 grit sandpaper or emery cloth to clean the rust and corrosion off them. Gives them a nice smooth finish and costs basically just time and sandpaper. Some pins have flat spots machined in them to retain the grease, so dont panic if you happen to see that.
Yet again, your videos showed me how to fix the exact same problem with my car. This is like the 4th or 5th video of yours that I've directly used to fix a problem. My wife's rear brakes started grinding two days ago. Brakes were installed at a shop just last year. The guide pins were all gunked up with some sort of horrible sticky lube (like rubber cement) that didn't allow them to move hardly at all. Cleaned them up, got the good grease on, and new brakes installed. Thanks for the video.
Some car repair shops will use the wrong stuff to lube the pins and you won't notice it until much later when you hear noises from the brakes. Guide pin grease must be silcone based and made specifically for heat and good for use in contact with rubber boots.
ChrisFix I saw a tear in the boot When you were separating the boot from the guide pin. It was at 3:16 of your film and appears to be already there. Amazing and helpful videos by the way.
Same here Chris ... Went for a servicing the day before..... Noticed this issue.. And today this video was in my suggestion... N i was like... Haa... Thts wat i really needed... 😅
I am a disabled vet spent 7 years in the NAVY on submarines. I learned a lot about mechanics and electronics. I was a reactor operator. But we had some things that had slide pins and we had to check them every month. But even thou I am in a wheelchair I still work on my cars the simple things. The last 2 times every thing was ok but I forgot to do 1 side and when I did the brakes the last time both slide pins were not so good. 1 pad was worn down like the ones in your video. Plus the other had cracks and a small piece out of it must have caused it to over heat. I had the same problem as you also the pin was out of stock at the on lt auto parts place and I had to drive 45 miles to get just 1 pin. But I cleaned it real well and made it there and back with damaging the new pads. So this was a great video!!!
Years ago, I didn't even know slide pins could be replaced, but I did wire wheel them on my grinder and silicone grease them. The car stopped fine after. I've heard that it's possible to put too much silicone grease on these though, to the point that an air pocket forms that impedes the povement of the pin.
Noticed uneven brake wear on my 2013 mustang. Checked the caliper pins, cleaned them and lubed them with silicon paste. Now its breaking smoother and quieter than ever before. Thank you Chris Fix!
Excellent tutorial! If a rubber boot has a split in it I found as a temporary fix is to use liquid rubber . Brush it on boot and let dry. It dries flexible. Good until you can get a replacement. It once worked for me. The stuff is used to cover bare spots in electrical wire insulation.
Also, after I clean the pin AND socket (hole...whatever it is), I install the boot on the pin and make sure there is plenty of lube still on it after the boot slides off the lube put on it initially. In this video, the boot pushed off most of the the lube as he slid the pin in the hole. This guy does fantastic videos. Edit: I was not being sarcastic about his videos being fantastic. I have learned a lot and he does it without a bunch of needless talking.
You cannot get all the corrosion out by cleaning the slide pin bore. Its actually recommended to replace the caliper mount bracket with the new slide pins.
@@aitorbleda8267 not sure what angle you're trying to play with the structural argument but what i would say is you're right..... its a safety related system..... therefore its not ok to do a cheap half ass repair for a customer who may potentially come back and sue you in the event that they end up in a crash. Or better yet can make you liable for criminal charges in the event someone is killed. Its happened before. Not really something you look at if you're doing your own brakes but, nonetheless if you're working on safety related components... moral of the story is do it right. If you dont replace the caliper bracket and slides together. They will continue to sieze once water gets passed the pitting from the corrosion that was cleaned off. Not something i necissarily consider fine.
I had a seized up guide pin on my accord. I figured that's why my break pads weren't wearing properly just because I saw another one of your videos. Thanks for the help.
So i just want to say that i don't really know anything about cars, and also repairs in my country are extremely expensive. You have no idea how gratefull i am for these videos. Had the exact problem like this one and made the repairs all by myself and i love it! THANK YOU!!
Thank you so much! This was happening to mine and I thought I was gonna have to replace the caliper. But upon replacing the pads I had a bolt on each side that was stuck. I did what you did and amazing... it worked perfectly. Now even wear. Thank you again.
Take a bore brush, (commonly used for cleaning gun barrels) and clean out all the rust from the female side of the equation in the caliper cage. First saturate with penetrating oil to break up the crud. Scrub it out with the brush, rinse with brake clean. Repeat and rinse as needed. A final swab of paper wrapped round a shaft, (1/4" extension, screwdriver or similar will do) to get out any final residue. Blow out with compressed air. A fiber optic inspection light is great to check your work on this kind of job. Make sure you don't put too much grease inside the cage of your calipers. If you do your slides will not contract fully and When the pads wear down the brakes will fail to work. That's a bad thing. Pure silicone grease is also sold under the brand name Silglyde, available in one shot packets at most parts stores, but NAPA sells it in large tubes and spray cans. It is one of my top go to lubricants, for brakes and all sorts of linkages that you never want to bind. It also works as dielectric grease.
Bore brush a good idea! I just ordered a set from Princess auto 1/2 price $16.53. I always had problems cleaning the female hole out. I used to use brake cleaner and let it sit then Q tips. Your idea makes sense. Thanks.
Add to this video... Use a small wire brush and a good penetrating oil to clean out the hole that the guide pin rides in. Old pistol or rifle bore brushes work great!!
Stephen Maurer an appropriate sized drill bit used by hand with alternate brake cleaner spraying does the best job on stubborn clogged holes. You would be shocked at the amount of rust/petrified grease that can be stuck in there.
Rockitanski I use the drill bit method as well but I use a slightly small bit with a piece of scotch brite on the bit and spin it with the drill and it scrubs the hole clean and shiny in 5 seconds with some brake clean.
Right! That bore should be cleaned by whatever method you prefer. If it's left dirty, half the crud is still in there and it's half way to seizing again. Good video.
You know you've been keeping up with your ChrisFix videos when you know the brake problem is related to the caliper pin before Chris even mentions it. Thank you!!!
Just to add that petroleum based grease is sometimes referred to mineral based grease. It should also be added that even other types of synthetic grease aren’t advised because they can make the rubber expand. Silicone grease is definitely the way to go for guide pins and anywhere plastic/rubber is in contact. Some people do use a copper/ceramic grease for the break seats though because it is purely metal to metal contact.
I know this is prob true for a lot of shops sadly but at mine, this is not the case at all. We, or at least, I go even above and beyond this when doing a brake job. I always remove everything and inspect it first really well. I sand blast the caliper brackets anchors really well so the new hardware and guide plates fit nice and flush, always use new hardware, new guide pin boots, brake clean everything, wire wheel the guide pins, all the bolts no matter their condition when removed, lube everything really well, including the caliper piston and guide pins before putting it back together, I make sure and clean out the guide pin holes too really well as old grease and gunk love to built up in the bottoms and stop the pins from being able to push in all the way like they should. Most people think the pins are bottoming out but really there is old lube in there keeping them from going in all the way which can allow air to get in there as well and cause the brakes to get overly hot, warp the rotors, burn the pads, or cause a grinding noise if the pins cannot move as designed. Also anti-seize all the bolts before putting them back on and making sure everything is tightened properly. Id rather take the extra time now to do the job right the first time than have the customer come back a month later with brake noise that I now have to take all back apart and fix, usually on my time and not making any money in the process, unless it ends up being something unrelated to the brake job. U want customers to come back because u do good work, not because the work u already did isnt right.
In addition to stuck guide pins, you should also check the surfaces that the pad shims are mounted to. A build up of rust on these surfaces under the shim pack will bind the pads resulting in similar uneven wear.
And sometimes you have to replace the shims. Ideally you should check this yearly especially if you live in snowy areas where snow ice and salt can rust those surfaces. Might not be a bad thing especially if you get more than 3 years out of the pads.
Yeah, it could also be that loose caliper bracket (joking of course, cause I'm assuming you intentionally loosened those bolts for reasons not mentioned in the video). I'd also like to point out that uneven wear like that could also be cause by the pad ears binding up in the bracket. So always make sure they move freely when installing by doing a quick dry-fit, then apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the ears for final installation. But to anyone else reading this, as an accord owner of 10 years and the current servicer of my fiance's CR-V, I STRONGLY advise you to actually remove the caliper bracket entirely and thoroughly clean out the pin holes and mating surface for the rubber boots with wire brush, Qtips, & brake cleaner (always finish with a final wash of brake cleaner in the pin holes, then let air dry). It's actually pretty difficult to get that completely cleaned out, which needs to be done if you're changing pin grease types or brands. Brackets are held on with only 2 bolts, but they're often seized on pretty good. Grab Kano Kroil penetrating oil and a breaker bar, and you'll have em off no problem. I know from too much experience that these Honda brakes are a nuisance. If not done correctly, you'll continue to have problems.
I loove your vids man, no bollox or intro crap at all, direct and to the point. I like that the cars are real road cars, rusty, covered in crap, you get dirty. Just like us. Cheers man.
Great video, definitely a big fan of your channel but based on my own experience with how unevenly worn out the inside pads were along with the caliper pins, cracked boot, rusted brake hardware, and rusted piston. I usually just go to my local auto parts store and buy re-manufactured calipers with the housing for around 55.00 plus lifetime warranty! A lot easier to replace and big time saver!
Chris, I was having this SAME problem with the uneven wear on my 09 civic EX! Showed my dad this video and he was floored that I found the solution to my problem through this video! We just got some small silicone antiseize packets and got all 8 pins cleaned and lubricated! Hopefully this is the solution to my problem! But thank you from my dad and I ❤❤❤
Another tip I would give for the new guys is don't over grease the pins. Liquid is incompressible meaning if the grease takes up too much space the pin can't move all the way to its retracted position, just a light film of grease is what you need.
I want to fill much of the space for dirt, water, and their corrosion byproducts, so I like to use excess lube, insert and compress fully, and wipe out the excess that squeezes out. Push them all the way in when fitting and the pins will only move out… which is the opposite of compressing. Of course, it might be hard to do this with some pin designs unless you take the bracket off the knuckle.
Thanks for the very appropriate reminder about inspecting the caliper pins. On my last brake job I found the rear guide pins were all almost seized. I removed all four and cleaned them, using some 120 grit sandpaper to remove the worst of the rust - then some 400 grit paper to polish the pins. BEFORE reinstalling them I also used break cleaner spray and a cloth to clean out all the old debris from inside the caliper. I've also used a steel drill bit of the correct size, turning it by hand ONLY, to get as much dirt/corrosion out as possible. Once that was done I used the silicone paste to lube the pins and install them. My brakes worked like new.
Hey Chris, As usual, GREAT vid!1. Remove the caliper bracket/arm/carrier (whatever you call it) and spray brake cleaner into those holes. You'll see all the gunk pour out. Dry with compressed air. (mind you eyes!)2. CLEAN those pins on a wire wheel, they come out LIKE NEW! In fact, clean everything on the wire wheel! Yeah, it takes 10 minutes and you mechanic says it ain't nec., but it makes the job perfecter.3. Always buy PREMIUM brake pads. They come with new rubbers, stainless steel shims, wire springs and back pads.4. Always buy PREMIUM rotors if you want powder coated hubs (which are WAY nice). Else, you can paint (after cleaning with brake cleaner) the hubs with flat black Rustoleum paint. Takes 2 secs and 'helps' keep them rust free for a while.5. ALWAYS clean the steel surface under the stainless steel shims really well! (I should have made this #1!, because this is the #2 cause of uneven wear.) Over time, bits of metal get deposited here and become welded on. It doesn't look like much, (kinda like human scar tissue) but it's enough to make the pads BIND and get stuck. I clean this surface with a Dremmel using the stone attachment. A small file works well too. Gently brush back and fourth until the surface shines like new. You'll see tiny bits break off.
Great video! I HAD a Santa Fe that had this same problem at around 40,000 miles and I had to replace the brakes myself because Hyundai claimed it was normal "wear and tear" not covered by the warranty. It's nice knowing now what the issue could have been and that I made a good decision not to buy another vehicle from them.
Never ever waist your time turning a rotor. First off a brand new rotor isnt all that expensive and probably only 10 more then turning. Plus extra trip to get them turned. Now the issue of the rotor is thinner causing brake fade. I myself buy all new rotors at same time as pads. Now jack it up and do all 4 in my drive way in under 2 hrs. To turn the rotors have to have all 4 wheels up. Have to find a ride to drop them off then pick them up the next day. So much easier to just buy all at once. Only need 1 jack and so fast. Plus if old rotor stuck on you can hammer it off without a care. A few good wacks with a sledge and it will pop off. To worry too much damage just takes longer. But mostly brake fade from a thinner rotor and pain getting them turned to save 10 bucks. Lol i had a guy use a old rotor with new pads. The pads wore out faster so he wanted me to sand the pads smooth and put on a new rotor. Lol jokes i refused. Like dude new pads is new rotor. New rotor new pads. As per caliper pins i just buy new. On my suv they are 300 bucks but get 150 back for the old ones. So lol ya only 150 for brand new after returning the old one. Why waist time ordering pins when do all new and good for over 3 yrs. New calipers will last like 10 yrs. Sure not worth saving 150 bucks today but brakes wear out faster and now a year later gotta do it all over again any way. To save 100 today costs you a extra 300 tomorrow. Plus always spend the extra 20 today to buy premium parts. They will last 50% longer. I got premium rotors from amazon and carbon ceramic pads. All 4 rotors and pads around 350 bucks. 2 yrs later they barely even wore. I do live in a remote area so not often on the brakes but when i am its at high speeds. Never skimp out on brakes. The brakes most important part so never try to save a few bucks on the part that will save your life if needing to slow down fast. Even the axles not worth skimping out if go long drives. Gonna skimp on repairs then your safest bet it to just pay 800 per month and drive brand new for life. I sure dont wanna be rear ended by someone that saved 50 bucks on cheap brakes and turning rotors causing less braking power. Lose a axle no issue. Rear end me to save 50 bucks becomes a serious issue. Oh ya please use e brake often when park so that if brakes fail atleast can reduce damage in a crash by having a e brake that works and not siezed up by lack of use. Wont find out siezed until emergency.
This. I noticed that my freshly cleaned/lubed pin would get stuck each time I reinserted until I cleaned, lubed, and reinserted it several more times. The first few times it would stick so hard I had to use my impact driver to free it up! Even though it wasn’t threaded I’d see smoke coming out after spinning it free with the impact. I’m replacing the whole caliper but I needed it to go back together in the mean time so I could get to work!
I just had this happen yesterday with my grandson’s 2002 Toyota Solara. Front Left, top glide pin was so stuck I had to use an impact wrench to bump it forward and reverse about a dozen times before it came loose! I did exactly what you did, with brake cleaner and a wire brush until it was usable. I also filled the hole with brake cleaner, waited about 5 minutes, and the used a pick to scrape around inside and get all the funk out. Turns out that once I did that, we didn’t even need to change the pads or rotors, which were both good with lots of material. No more vibration and chattering when braking!! P.S. Anybody want to buy new rotors and pads? 😄
I don’t think I’ve ever replaced a guide pin. I’ve always taken them to a bench grinder and smooth them out with a polishing wheel. I realize they are often zinc plated from the factory but with enough silicon and a good boot they always last the life of a set of brake pads (5-10 years) even in the Midwest before they will need to be polished and regressed again. As far as polishing the bore of the caliper bracket, I actually used a battery cable cleaner brush it’s a perfect diameter. Just try to use a copper one if you can find them, the stainless steel brushes are a little stiff and might needlessly score and groove the bore. Blast out (wearing goggles) the bore with compressed air (compressed air is also my favorite way to pop our caliper pistons just stand back they can go airborne so do it in a box) Great video, and good job pointing out the use of silicon. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen people use aluminum or petroleum anti seize and the boots disintegrated after a few years.
use a dremel with a wirebrus to clean out the bore and also take of the stainless steel brakepad slider of and clean the caliper bracket because rust will pushes the stainless steel slider against the sliding edge of the brakepad
Dude, I love your channel. I went from not knowing shit about cars and car maintenance to actually being able to competently do all my basic maintenance myself. Cheers.
I love how you make your video's almost universal! If I have work done on my car it helps to know what they're trying to show me, or better yet what they should be looking for to avoid costly repeat visits.
Not every car will have such guide pins though. Also with replacing drum brake videos, a lot of them show that you can just remove the drum after removing the wheel, which is not the case for Ford Focus cars. At a Ford Focus you have to undo the center nut after which you remove the drum+one bearing. Boils down to, universal videos don’t work. If you’re planning to do work on your car then look up a video on that job on your specific car model. Also, don’t trust garages, i have never met a single one who didn’t cut corners, or charge crazy prices, or both.
The other thing to remember about your slide pins when you’re doing the brake job theyre at room temperature and whilst they feel okay you don’t know how they feel when they’re red hot because they’re too hot to touch so you’re well advised to always lubricate them to make sure that when they’re at operating temperature they still have the best chance of moving which is a different story to room temperature......... Don’t forget metal expands if there’s any junk between the pin and the bore that stuff all expands it might feel okay at room temperature and when it’s hot it might be jamming.....
WARNING: I´m by no means an expert, but judging from all the car tutorial videos I´ve seen brake cleaner seems to be the solution for every kind of dirt or mud down there so I assume this could work
Dude your channel rocks! Thanks for uploading your tutorials on repairs! You are one of the very very few that actually explains CORRECTLY AND WITH GOOD VIDEO VIEWING!
So even if it looks like shes lubed up, and you can shove it back and forth. Never hurts to take it out, clean it, lube her up again properly, and shove it back in! Just for added safety ;-)
BrysNightWorld you damn right , thats what i did and i didn't know what i was doing when i changed my brakes, i just guessed and it turned out great lol and its been more than 3 years and no problems
Also note: look at the back of the pad to find a raised peg/lug - seen in front of the third finger in that video still. That engages into one of the four slots in the piston face. The piston as seen if this video did not have a slot aligned with that peg, the piston should be rotated so a slot is facing directly rearwards - visibly centred when looking into the caliper from behind. I don't know why they have this feature but look out for it as that would cause another issue of uneven wear.... if it even gets in of course.
I have bad break in my car and after I saw this video I checked the guide pins it was in bad shape so I did as you told Man the result is fantastic Thank you Chris
I've been watching your videos since I found you on RUclips about a month ago, huge fan!can't stop watching. I thank God for you. God bless you and yours keep up the excellent work.
I had a guide pin that took me 4 hours of soaking, heating and banging to get out. Then I had to clean out the guide pin hole. Hard to believe that pin could be so hard to remove.
Always use a silicone grease. Then you won't have issues. Another post said clean out the female hole the pin inserts into with a "bore brush" make sense. If the rubber is getting old replace as water and salt can get into the hole /pin and that causes the seizing issue. Cheers.
Hi Chris. Regarding inner & outer brake pads, what causes one pad to wear out so much quicker than the other? Anything we can do to ensure more even inner/outer pad wear? Thanks for the great videos! -Cheers.
Always use silicone on the pins, it works the best. Silicone will repel water and will not rot the rubber boots. I have used both. The silicone is better.
chevy/gmc 250 express van spongy brake pedal, down to the rotor metal ( could hear it, finally), pulled the wheels (back), seized floating caliper pin, had to heat the caliper to get the pin out(AL), clean up, new rotor, new pad, works great. Check the pins on pad changes +++. Great video.
Unless he punctured it off camera, this is an old hole. You can see the hole at 3:16-3:17, and it's on the back of the boot, nowhere near where Chris levered it. You should replace that boot though, no doubt. This makes me wonder if guide pins and rubber boots are sold separately or together.
even before i watched the video i knew it was the guiding pin, lol. had the same problem at my school workshop so manyyyy times... thanks for all of ur videos chris, u have teached me alot, without ur detailed vids i probably wouldnt have been able to pass my car exam.
My respect to all good mechanics out there but with this guy's help I've been learning so much and putting it right into practice, fulfilling a dream of learning mechanic, which is a passion for me, at least as a hobby even if not making any money out from it
I really don't know much about mechanics but I wanna say thank you kid you sound younger than me...... May God-bless your channel with many subscribers.
No bother you saved me time, money and gave me the confidence to do my van brakes today. Need van for work and couldn't bear paying an overpriced garage again
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
After 9yrs. Cris fix still delivers!!!
These frozen guide pins are usually caused by a damaged or mis-installed boot. If moisture gets past, it will eventually gum up and prevent the pin from floating properly. A wire wheel works wonders for cleaning the pins. Also don't forget to cleanup the bores as 1/2 the problem is inside too!
I love your videos Chris! I'm only 13 but I hope to be a mechanic some day! Your videos have helped a lot!!!
Amazing man, keep it up soon enough you’ll change your own and ur friends brakes
🎓👨🏿🔧🛠⚒🦉👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👍🏿🙌🏾!!!
@@christiandemarcus2257 mans 16now
nice
18 now 😁 got car?
You can chuck the slide pins in a cordless drill and use 100 grit sandpaper or emery cloth to clean the rust and corrosion off them. Gives them a nice smooth finish and costs basically just time and sandpaper. Some pins have flat spots machined in them to retain the grease, so dont panic if you happen to see that.
Yet again, your videos showed me how to fix the exact same problem with my car. This is like the 4th or 5th video of yours that I've directly used to fix a problem. My wife's rear brakes started grinding two days ago. Brakes were installed at a shop just last year. The guide pins were all gunked up with some sort of horrible sticky lube (like rubber cement) that didn't allow them to move hardly at all. Cleaned them up, got the good grease on, and new brakes installed. Thanks for the video.
Awesome!!! That is what I like to hear!!!
Some car repair shops will use the wrong stuff to lube the pins and you won't notice it until much later when you hear noises from the brakes. Guide pin grease must be silcone based and made specifically for heat and good for use in contact with rubber boots.
ChrisFix I saw a tear in the boot When you were separating the boot from the guide pin. It was at 3:16 of your film and appears to be already there. Amazing and helpful videos by the way.
Yo JoE Thanks for sharing! I will have to take a look at it! Good eye!
Did you also see the dent in the piston? That must be replaced too!
ChrisFix you don’t know squat let me see some ase certifications
@@thewrenchmaster122 Sit yo ass down boeee
@@chrisfix would you tell me why rear brakes worn out before front brakes
And is it necessary to adjust them all together
I swear, when I'm having a problem you upload a video addressing that certain problem a few days later. I need to get some silicon paste.
Liqhuid Haha, my ChrisFix senses are tingling.
Liqhuid Same here. I fixed a Ford truck last week with the very same problem. lol
ChrisFix I'm looking forward to seeing if your next video addresses my problem. If it does I'll be freaked out.
3M silicon paste £15 on ebay from USA or £45 on ebay from U.K W.T.F !
Same here Chris ... Went for a servicing the day before..... Noticed this issue.. And today this video was in my suggestion... N i was like...
Haa... Thts wat i really needed... 😅
Thank you for taking your time out to show us these repairs & tips.
+angelisone You are welcome!
ChrisFix can I put Synthetic Grease
It's not really "time out". He does these videos for income. It's a side gig. We pay him in ad views. ;)
(Turn off ad block)
That would be a hell of a lot of time out to not be getting paid though. Making videos of such a quality takes a lot of extra time I'm sure.
I am a disabled vet spent 7 years in the NAVY on submarines. I learned a lot about mechanics and electronics. I was a reactor operator. But we had some things that had slide pins and we had to check them every month. But even thou I am in a wheelchair I still work on my cars the simple things. The last 2 times every thing was ok but I forgot to do 1 side and when I did the brakes the last time both slide pins were not so good. 1 pad was worn down like the ones in your video. Plus the other had cracks and a small piece out of it must have caused it to over heat. I had the same problem as you also the pin was out of stock at the on lt auto parts place and I had to drive 45 miles to get just 1 pin. But I cleaned it real well and made it there and back with damaging the new pads.
So this was a great video!!!
Years ago, I didn't even know slide pins could be replaced, but I did wire wheel them on my grinder and silicone grease them. The car stopped fine after. I've heard that it's possible to put too much silicone grease on these though, to the point that an air pocket forms that impedes the povement of the pin.
Noticed uneven brake wear on my 2013 mustang. Checked the caliper pins, cleaned them and lubed them with silicon paste. Now its breaking smoother and quieter than ever before. Thank you Chris Fix!
Excellent tutorial! If a rubber boot has a split in it I found as a temporary fix is to use liquid rubber . Brush it on boot and let dry. It dries flexible. Good until
you can get a replacement. It once worked for me. The stuff is used to cover bare spots in electrical wire insulation.
Good to know,thank you
what about cleaning out the guide pin holes?
Also, after I clean the pin AND socket (hole...whatever it is), I install the boot on the pin and make sure there is plenty of lube still on it after the boot slides off the lube put on it initially.
In this video, the boot pushed off most of the the lube as he slid the pin in the hole.
This guy does fantastic videos.
Edit: I was not being sarcastic about his videos being fantastic. I have learned a lot and he does it without a bunch of needless talking.
You cannot get all the corrosion out by cleaning the slide pin bore. Its actually recommended to replace the caliper mount bracket with the new slide pins.
For the money you save doing it yourself just replace the caliper mounting bracket along with the pins, pads and rotors
@@rivieraauto8540 And? This is not structural, as long as it slides, it is ok.
@@aitorbleda8267 not sure what angle you're trying to play with the structural argument but what i would say is you're right..... its a safety related system..... therefore its not ok to do a cheap half ass repair for a customer who may potentially come back and sue you in the event that they end up in a crash. Or better yet can make you liable for criminal charges in the event someone is killed. Its happened before. Not really something you look at if you're doing your own brakes but, nonetheless if you're working on safety related components... moral of the story is do it right. If you dont replace the caliper bracket and slides together. They will continue to sieze once water gets passed the pitting from the corrosion that was cleaned off. Not something i necissarily consider fine.
I had a seized up guide pin on my accord. I figured that's why my break pads weren't wearing properly just because I saw another one of your videos. Thanks for the help.
So i just want to say that i don't really know anything about cars, and also repairs in my country are extremely expensive. You have no idea how gratefull i am for these videos. Had the exact problem like this one and made the repairs all by myself and i love it! THANK YOU!!
I am glad the videos are helpful!
No BS. No patronizing. Always to the point and move on. Thanks Man. You are the boss
Thank you so much! This was happening to mine and I thought I was gonna have to replace the caliper. But upon replacing the pads I had a bolt on each side that was stuck. I did what you did and amazing... it worked perfectly. Now even wear. Thank you again.
Take a bore brush, (commonly used for cleaning gun barrels) and clean out all the rust from the female side of the equation in the caliper cage. First saturate with penetrating oil to break up the crud. Scrub it out with the brush, rinse with brake clean. Repeat and rinse as needed. A final swab of paper wrapped round a shaft, (1/4" extension, screwdriver or similar will do) to get out any final residue. Blow out with compressed air. A fiber optic inspection light is great to check your work on this kind of job.
Make sure you don't put too much grease inside the cage of your calipers. If you do your slides will not contract fully and When the pads wear down the brakes will fail to work. That's a bad thing.
Pure silicone grease is also sold under the brand name Silglyde, available in one shot packets at most parts stores, but NAPA sells it in large tubes and spray cans. It is one of my top go to lubricants, for brakes and all sorts of linkages that you never want to bind. It also works as dielectric grease.
how do you know the bore identifies as female, it might be two spirit, not good to gender judge mate, fix up
Bore brush a good idea! I just ordered a set from Princess auto 1/2 price $16.53. I always had problems cleaning the female hole out. I used to use brake cleaner and let it sit then Q tips. Your idea makes sense. Thanks.
Add to this video... Use a small wire brush and a good penetrating oil to clean out the hole that the guide pin rides in. Old pistol or rifle bore brushes work great!!
even just shooting some brake cleaner with the tube in there would be great
Stephen Maurer an appropriate sized drill bit used by hand with alternate brake cleaner spraying does the best job on stubborn clogged holes. You would be shocked at the amount of rust/petrified grease that can be stuck in there.
Rockitanski I use the drill bit method as well but I use a slightly small bit with a piece of scotch brite on the bit and spin it with the drill and it scrubs the hole clean and shiny in 5 seconds with some brake clean.
Rockitanski and
Right! That bore should be cleaned by whatever method you prefer. If it's left dirty, half the crud is still in there and it's half way to seizing again. Good video.
RAN INTO A FEW BAD MECHANICS WANTING TO CHARGE ME A FORTUNE ON REPAIRS, THANKS TO YOUR VIDEOS A BEEN SAVING CASH AND BEEN DOING THE STUFF MY SELF👍👍👍👍
I'm glad you're doing all your own work now! Thanks a lot!
You know you've been keeping up with your ChrisFix videos when you know the brake problem is related to the caliper pin before Chris even mentions it. Thank you!!!
Just to add that petroleum based grease is sometimes referred to mineral based grease. It should also be added that even other types of synthetic grease aren’t advised because they can make the rubber expand. Silicone grease is definitely the way to go for guide pins and anywhere plastic/rubber is in contact.
Some people do use a copper/ceramic grease for the break seats though because it is purely metal to metal contact.
Thanks for sharing!
You are such a good teacher ChrisFix I never knew how important caliper guide pins were until now. Keep up these great videos.
Chris Thanks a lot man!
Yes I have seen many brake repair videos on-line and I don't remember the slide pins being covered. Great video Chris
Flammable 281 Thanks! I try to cover new things and this brake job presented the perfect opportunity.
Awesome tutorial as usual, Chris! I doubt most shops perform as complete a job as you do.
Thanks David!
David Sparling i doubt it too haha!
I know this is prob true for a lot of shops sadly but at mine, this is not the case at all. We, or at least, I go even above and beyond this when doing a brake job. I always remove everything and inspect it first really well. I sand blast the caliper brackets anchors really well so the new hardware and guide plates fit nice and flush, always use new hardware, new guide pin boots, brake clean everything, wire wheel the guide pins, all the bolts no matter their condition when removed, lube everything really well, including the caliper piston and guide pins before putting it back together, I make sure and clean out the guide pin holes too really well as old grease and gunk love to built up in the bottoms and stop the pins from being able to push in all the way like they should. Most people think the pins are bottoming out but really there is old lube in there keeping them from going in all the way which can allow air to get in there as well and cause the brakes to get overly hot, warp the rotors, burn the pads, or cause a grinding noise if the pins cannot move as designed. Also anti-seize all the bolts before putting them back on and making sure everything is tightened properly.
Id rather take the extra time now to do the job right the first time than have the customer come back a month later with brake noise that I now have to take all back apart and fix, usually on my time and not making any money in the process, unless it ends up being something unrelated to the brake job. U want customers to come back because u do good work, not because the work u already did isnt right.
Yeah they really don't. Some of them just replace the whole caliper without a proper diagnostic lol
Best mechanic channel on youtube! I knew I could count on you Chris!
You’re that voice in the back of my mind making sure I don’t take shortcuts. Thanks Chris!
In addition to stuck guide pins, you should also check the surfaces that the pad shims are mounted to. A build up of rust on these surfaces under the shim pack will bind the pads resulting in similar uneven wear.
And sometimes you have to replace the shims. Ideally you should check this yearly especially if you live in snowy areas where snow ice and salt can rust those surfaces. Might not be a bad thing especially if you get more than 3 years out of the pads.
Yeah, it could also be that loose caliper bracket (joking of course, cause I'm assuming you intentionally loosened those bolts for reasons not mentioned in the video). I'd also like to point out that uneven wear like that could also be cause by the pad ears binding up in the bracket. So always make sure they move freely when installing by doing a quick dry-fit, then apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the ears for final installation.
But to anyone else reading this, as an accord owner of 10 years and the current servicer of my fiance's CR-V, I STRONGLY advise you to actually remove the caliper bracket entirely and thoroughly clean out the pin holes and mating surface for the rubber boots with wire brush, Qtips, & brake cleaner (always finish with a final wash of brake cleaner in the pin holes, then let air dry). It's actually pretty difficult to get that completely cleaned out, which needs to be done if you're changing pin grease types or brands. Brackets are held on with only 2 bolts, but they're often seized on pretty good. Grab Kano Kroil penetrating oil and a breaker bar, and you'll have em off no problem. I know from too much experience that these Honda brakes are a nuisance. If not done correctly, you'll continue to have problems.
Re-watching this in March 2024 👍
Did it work for you?
Idk what date or year it is rn
Working on our brakes today and had some uneven brake wear. Watched your video to help me find the issue. Thank you.
I loove your vids man, no bollox or intro crap at all, direct and to the point. I like that the cars are real road cars, rusty, covered in crap, you get dirty. Just like us. Cheers man.
Learning a lot now from these videos in quarantine
Great video, definitely a big fan of your channel but based on my own experience with how unevenly worn out the inside pads were along with the caliper pins, cracked boot, rusted brake hardware, and rusted piston. I usually just go to my local auto parts store and buy re-manufactured calipers with the housing for around 55.00 plus lifetime warranty! A lot easier to replace and big time saver!
+Harrison Edgar thanks and thanks for the tip!
Thank you for the information Chris. I've never thought about checking the guide pins before. It's always good to learn something new.
There is no better. You just cannot beat a ChrisFix video.
Chris, I was having this SAME problem with the uneven wear on my 09 civic EX!
Showed my dad this video and he was floored that I found the solution to my problem through this video!
We just got some small silicone antiseize packets and got all 8 pins cleaned and lubricated! Hopefully this is the solution to my problem!
But thank you from my dad and I ❤❤❤
Hell yea! So glad I discovered this channel. Clear and concise. Liked/subbed, mate
Another tip I would give for the new guys is don't over grease the pins. Liquid is incompressible meaning if the grease takes up too much space the pin can't move all the way to its retracted position, just a light film of grease is what you need.
I want to fill much of the space for dirt, water, and their corrosion byproducts, so I like to use excess lube, insert and compress fully, and wipe out the excess that squeezes out. Push them all the way in when fitting and the pins will only move out… which is the opposite of compressing. Of course, it might be hard to do this with some pin designs unless you take the bracket off the knuckle.
Thanks for the very appropriate reminder about inspecting the caliper pins. On my last brake job I found the rear guide pins were all almost seized. I removed all four and cleaned them, using some 120 grit sandpaper to remove the worst of the rust - then some 400 grit paper to polish the pins. BEFORE reinstalling them I also used break cleaner spray and a cloth to clean out all the old debris from inside the caliper. I've also used a steel drill bit of the correct size, turning it by hand ONLY, to get as much dirt/corrosion out as possible. Once that was done I used the silicone paste to lube the pins and install them. My brakes worked like new.
Hey Chris, As usual, GREAT vid!1. Remove the caliper bracket/arm/carrier (whatever you call it) and spray brake cleaner into those holes. You'll see all the gunk pour out. Dry with compressed air. (mind you eyes!)2. CLEAN those pins on a wire wheel, they come out LIKE NEW! In fact, clean everything on the wire wheel! Yeah, it takes 10 minutes and you mechanic says it ain't nec., but it makes the job perfecter.3. Always buy PREMIUM brake pads. They come with new rubbers, stainless steel shims, wire springs and back pads.4. Always buy PREMIUM rotors if you want powder coated hubs (which are WAY nice). Else, you can paint (after cleaning with brake cleaner) the hubs with flat black Rustoleum paint. Takes 2 secs and 'helps' keep them rust free for a while.5. ALWAYS clean the steel surface under the stainless steel shims really well! (I should have made this #1!, because this is the #2 cause of uneven wear.) Over time, bits of metal get deposited here and become welded on. It doesn't look like much, (kinda like human scar tissue) but it's enough to make the pads BIND and get stuck. I clean this surface with a Dremmel using the stone attachment. A small file works well too. Gently brush back and fourth until the surface shines like new. You'll see tiny bits break off.
Great video! I HAD a Santa Fe that had this same problem at around 40,000 miles and I had to replace the brakes myself because Hyundai claimed it was normal "wear and tear" not covered by the warranty. It's nice knowing now what the issue could have been and that I made a good decision not to buy another vehicle from them.
+Bobby0345 Thanks! I leased a Hyundai santa fee that need a new engine after the first 2000 miles. Thankfully it was a lease and I didnt own it!
Great job. I noticed the caliper bracket was fairly loose, also going to need to turn that rotor or swap it out.
He was in the process of changing the rotors. That's why the bracket was loose.
@Mark Josiah lol
@Mark Josiahmom
Never ever waist your time turning a rotor. First off a brand new rotor isnt all that expensive and probably only 10 more then turning. Plus extra trip to get them turned. Now the issue of the rotor is thinner causing brake fade. I myself buy all new rotors at same time as pads. Now jack it up and do all 4 in my drive way in under 2 hrs. To turn the rotors have to have all 4 wheels up. Have to find a ride to drop them off then pick them up the next day. So much easier to just buy all at once. Only need 1 jack and so fast. Plus if old rotor stuck on you can hammer it off without a care. A few good wacks with a sledge and it will pop off. To worry too much damage just takes longer. But mostly brake fade from a thinner rotor and pain getting them turned to save 10 bucks. Lol i had a guy use a old rotor with new pads. The pads wore out faster so he wanted me to sand the pads smooth and put on a new rotor. Lol jokes i refused. Like dude new pads is new rotor. New rotor new pads. As per caliper pins i just buy new. On my suv they are 300 bucks but get 150 back for the old ones. So lol ya only 150 for brand new after returning the old one. Why waist time ordering pins when do all new and good for over 3 yrs. New calipers will last like 10 yrs. Sure not worth saving 150 bucks today but brakes wear out faster and now a year later gotta do it all over again any way. To save 100 today costs you a extra 300 tomorrow. Plus always spend the extra 20 today to buy premium parts. They will last 50% longer. I got premium rotors from amazon and carbon ceramic pads. All 4 rotors and pads around 350 bucks. 2 yrs later they barely even wore. I do live in a remote area so not often on the brakes but when i am its at high speeds. Never skimp out on brakes. The brakes most important part so never try to save a few bucks on the part that will save your life if needing to slow down fast. Even the axles not worth skimping out if go long drives. Gonna skimp on repairs then your safest bet it to just pay 800 per month and drive brand new for life. I sure dont wanna be rear ended by someone that saved 50 bucks on cheap brakes and turning rotors causing less braking power. Lose a axle no issue. Rear end me to save 50 bucks becomes a serious issue. Oh ya please use e brake often when park so that if brakes fail atleast can reduce damage in a crash by having a e brake that works and not siezed up by lack of use. Wont find out siezed until emergency.
@@shawnkelly1241 All depends on the vehicle.
I'M SUCH A FAN OF YOUR CHANNEL & YOUR IN DEPTH KNOWLEDGE. TOP MARKS 👍👍👍
Thanks for the support!
I would have cleaned up the guide pin housing holes too, if there's crud on the guide pin it will be in the housing too, thanks for the video!
This. I noticed that my freshly cleaned/lubed pin would get stuck each time I reinserted until I cleaned, lubed, and reinserted it several more times. The first few times it would stick so hard I had to use my impact driver to free it up! Even though it wasn’t threaded I’d see smoke coming out after spinning it free with the impact. I’m replacing the whole caliper but I needed it to go back together in the mean time so I could get to work!
I just had this happen yesterday with my grandson’s 2002 Toyota Solara. Front Left, top glide pin was so stuck I had to use an impact wrench to bump it forward and reverse about a dozen times before it came loose! I did exactly what you did, with brake cleaner and a wire brush until it was usable. I also filled the hole with brake cleaner, waited about 5 minutes, and the used a pick to scrape around inside and get all the funk out. Turns out that once I did that, we didn’t even need to change the pads or rotors, which were both good with lots of material. No more vibration and chattering when braking!!
P.S. Anybody want to buy new rotors and pads? 😄
I don’t think I’ve ever replaced a guide pin. I’ve always taken them to a bench grinder and smooth them out with a polishing wheel. I realize they are often zinc plated from the factory but with enough silicon and a good boot they always last the life of a set of brake pads (5-10 years) even in the Midwest before they will need to be polished and regressed again.
As far as polishing the bore of the caliper bracket, I actually used a battery cable cleaner brush it’s a perfect diameter. Just try to use a copper one if you can find them, the stainless steel brushes are a little stiff and might needlessly score and groove the bore. Blast out (wearing goggles) the bore with compressed air (compressed air is also my favorite way to pop our caliper pistons just stand back they can go airborne so do it in a box)
Great video, and good job pointing out the use of silicon. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen people use aluminum or petroleum anti seize and the boots disintegrated after a few years.
Why did you not clean the bore the guide pins ride in?? The bore will be just as dirty as the pin was.
dieselworld Thanks! You should definitely clean the bore as well! Use some brake clean and a screw driver with a towel at the end to poke around!
Chris Fix for the win!
use a dremel with a wirebrus to clean out the bore and also take of the stainless steel brakepad slider of and clean the caliper bracket because rust will pushes the stainless steel slider against the sliding edge of the brakepad
lacossa nostra my Tundra has rubber boots inside the caliper holder. Just an FYI if I was to dremel that. She gone!
For the money you save doing it yourself just replace the caliper mounting bracket along with the pins, pads and rotors
"You don't want to pierce the rubber." Ha! That's what she said.
Aw3someOpZ she never said that to me ever
Aw3someOpZ no way
Don’t know what kind of women your sleeping with 😂😂😂
😰😝
Ha ha 😝
So glad I found this channel, thanks Chris
+colutuber Glad you like the channel!
Dude, I love your channel. I went from not knowing shit about cars and car maintenance to actually being able to competently do all my basic maintenance myself. Cheers.
I love how you make your video's almost universal! If I have work done on my car it helps to know what they're trying to show me, or better yet what they should be looking for to avoid costly repeat visits.
+MrChristopher3232 Yea that is the goal! It is pointless to make it specific because not everyone has the same car.
Not every car will have such guide pins though. Also with replacing drum brake videos, a lot of them show that you can just remove the drum after removing the wheel, which is not the case for Ford Focus cars. At a Ford Focus you have to undo the center nut after which you remove the drum+one bearing. Boils down to, universal videos don’t work. If you’re planning to do work on your car then look up a video on that job on your specific car model. Also, don’t trust garages, i have never met a single one who didn’t cut corners, or charge crazy prices, or both.
another great video. actually had this problem with my Altima.
The other thing to remember about your slide pins
when you’re doing the brake job theyre at room temperature and whilst they feel okay you don’t know how they feel when they’re red hot because they’re too hot to touch
so you’re well advised to always lubricate them to make sure that when they’re at operating temperature they still have the best chance of moving which is a different story to room temperature.........
Don’t forget metal expands if there’s any junk between the pin and the bore that stuff all expands
it might feel okay at room temperature and when it’s hot it might be jamming.....
do you clean the inside of the pin hole also? i assume grime build up is not just on the pin itself but inside the hole also?
+Colin Shum I would!! A dirty hole would cause future problems with your guide pin!!
How? By spraying brake cleaner inside the hole?
WARNING: I´m by no means an expert, but judging from all the car tutorial videos I´ve seen brake cleaner seems to be the solution for every kind of dirt or mud down there so I assume this could work
I use a cotton bud then spray then grease and burp the rubber you don't want air.
nope,total cleaning and replacing parts are required sometimes
You have provided the best car repair tutorials on youtube. Many thanks Chris.
Dude your channel rocks! Thanks for uploading your tutorials on repairs! You are one of the very very few that actually explains CORRECTLY AND WITH GOOD VIDEO VIEWING!
So even if it looks like shes lubed up, and you can shove it back and forth. Never hurts to take it out, clean it, lube her up again properly, and shove it back in! Just for added safety ;-)
+BrysNightWorld #truth
BrysNightWorld 😂😂
Nice one guys! lol.
BrysNightWorld you damn right , thats what i did and i didn't know what i was doing when i changed my brakes, i just guessed and it turned out great lol and its been more than 3 years and no problems
BrysNightWorld she might need extra force to push all the way in the hole.
...I also clean the piston on the caliper before retracting it back in when replacing new disc pads....
Also note: look at the back of the pad to find a raised peg/lug - seen in front of the third finger in that video still. That engages into one of the four slots in the piston face. The piston as seen if this video did not have a slot aligned with that peg, the piston should be rotated so a slot is facing directly rearwards - visibly centred when looking into the caliper from behind. I don't know why they have this feature but look out for it as that would cause another issue of uneven wear.... if it even gets in of course.
I have bad break in my car and after I saw this video I checked the guide pins it was in bad shape so I did as you told
Man the result is fantastic
Thank you Chris
+aaag Awesome! That is what I like to hear!
I've been watching your videos since I found you on RUclips about a month ago, huge fan!can't stop watching. I thank God for you. God bless you and yours keep up the excellent work.
3:17
a tear in the rubber boot
ekkrir Good eye, that is getting replaced with the new guide pins (they come in the kit with the new pins).
Great observation. Thanks for the tip and keep the heads up!
Good luck
"Don't want to pierce the rubber"
I'm sure I saw a hole in the bottom one.
I got some knowledge on brake caliper system by watching this video. Your presentation is very good and up to the point.
I just bought my first car and ever since I discovered ChrisFix, I'm learning so much from watching your videos. Thank you!
+OfficialiAmNaz Awesome! That is what I like to hear and congrats on the car!
I'd just hit that pin really well with a wire wheel! thow some rust preventative if that silicon don't do it. Save some MULA!
3DMachines Thanks man! That is what I ended up doing!
Zsasesss
never go cheap on brake parts, you life is worth more than few dollar
@@shawnkelly1241 how did you go from fixing brake to that?!!
@@ahoorakia i dont know lol.
I had a guide pin that took me 4 hours of soaking, heating and banging to get out. Then I had to clean out the guide pin hole. Hard to believe that pin could be so hard to remove.
Mark Allison Crazy! It is amazing that they can be so hard to remove sometimes!
Mark Allison Seen a few get 'stuck'.. more likely some one forgot to grease it back up when re-installing.
Or the boot was not sealing and water got in and rusted.
Always use a silicone grease. Then you won't have issues. Another post said clean out the female hole the pin inserts into with a "bore brush" make sense. If the rubber is getting old replace as water and salt can get into the hole /pin and that causes the seizing issue. Cheers.
Next time swap out the bracket they are cheap
Hi Chris. Regarding inner & outer brake pads, what causes one pad to wear out so much quicker than the other? Anything we can do to ensure more even inner/outer pad wear? Thanks for the great videos! -Cheers.
The inner pad is the first one to make contact with the piston and the disc, so it will naturally be the first one to wear out more than the outer.
You really do the best car repair instructional vids on RUclips - so helpful!!!
I done brakes job for long long time and i found Chris gives a lot of useful tips
Did anyone even notice that , Chris took a clip from this video , and used it on a DriftStang video.
You should also clean the hole where the pin lives
Pablo GR Definitely! Get some brake clean and a rag with a screw driver and clean it out! Thanks for the tip!
Yep.
Agreed. If the pin is seized in the bore and comes out looking crappy, you should expect the hole to be corroded/filled with cruddy grease too.
Yes & inspect with a bright light for corrosion.
They make caliper grease that is made just for the slides. It's green
joeyf504327 Silicon grease works great. It doesn't wear out the rubber boots and it doesn't solidify in winter.
Always use silicone on the pins, it works the best. Silicone will repel water and will not rot the rubber boots. I have used both. The silicone is better.
Six years later and your still the man.
You, my friend, you're amazing. Every time I have a car problem I come on youtube looking for your videos
Top tutorial. Thank you.
David C bus roft
0:26 "you can see, sum ting wong"
Nice move using the tyre as failsafe in case the jack do fails you
It’s quite a common way of working..
chevy/gmc 250 express van spongy brake pedal, down to the rotor metal ( could hear it, finally), pulled the wheels (back), seized floating caliper pin, had to heat the caliper to get the pin out(AL), clean up, new rotor, new pad, works great. Check the pins on pad changes +++. Great video.
I remember watching a response video to this. It was hilarious he spent so much time and effort proving Chris wrong. Was a real vendetta.
My first girlfriend taught me the three keys to maintenance: CLEAN IT. LUBE IT. If you're not having fun, you're doing it wrong.
huge fan
+Jose Ruiz thanks for the support Jose
How bout those rusty clips? where the Brake pads ears sit on..
For the money you save doing it yourself just replace the caliper mounting bracket along with the pins, pads and rotors
Very useful video without much unwanted explanation. I liked it. Thanks for your share
3:16 the Rubber boot has a hole, I done this before And replace the boots, love your Videos Thanks for showing other people how to do their job😉
Thanks!
My guide pin was stuck like a mofo.
at 3:12 you poked a hole through the rubber.
Good eye!
Unless he punctured it off camera, this is an old hole. You can see the hole at 3:16-3:17, and it's on the back of the boot, nowhere near where Chris levered it.
You should replace that boot though, no doubt. This makes me wonder if guide pins and rubber boots are sold separately or together.
That hole is on 180 degrees the other side from where he poked. The hole was already there.
A caliper piston cannot come.e out unevenly... only in your dreams.
lol nice one ; -)
did my brake 2 weeks gotta do the fronts this weekend and now ima tackle all 4 guide pins. great vid
You didn’t have to do knock out the pin with a hammer, you could’ve used a wrench and twist the pin out.
Sometimes need to use heat
Why wouldn’t you knock the pin out with a hammer? Hammering it seems to me like a whole lot more effective solution than twisting.
1:09 when my girlfriend says go deeper.
im only 13 and i know so much about cars
same here only 14 years old
+Kevin Veldman its easyyyy
george psy yes it really is
:p
+Adam Steele Me too, i'm learning for truck driver but i do want to be a car mechanic too for hobby.
This is why I love your videos. I am currently experiencing this exact problem and this video helped me solve it.
Glad I could help
even before i watched the video i knew it was the guiding pin, lol. had the same problem at my school workshop so manyyyy times... thanks for all of ur videos chris, u have teached me alot, without ur detailed vids i probably wouldnt have been able to pass my car exam.
My respect to all good mechanics out there but with this guy's help I've been learning so much and putting it right into practice, fulfilling a dream of learning mechanic, which is a passion for me, at least as a hobby even if not making any money out from it
Such detail in your videos you have saved me so much time and money over the years I greatly appreciate you sir.
I really don't know much about mechanics but I wanna say thank you kid you sound younger than me......
May God-bless your channel with many subscribers.
Thanks!
I love what you do, brother. You are such an an excellent teacher. I love your videos for their usefulness.
Your a lifesaver. Or brakesaver. Whatever you wanna call it. Thanx a million for this one.
No bother you saved me time, money and gave me the confidence to do my van brakes today. Need van for work and couldn't bear paying an overpriced garage again