How to Fix Uneven Brake Wear
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- How to lubricate caliper slider pins. The caliper guide pins are essential to the disc brake system. If the caliper pins are not free moving, the brake pads could wear unevenly and you can have premature wear in your brake system. Learn how to prevent uneven brake pad wear and how to properly lube the guide pins.
Here is the Silicone Paste I used: www.amazon.com/...
*If the video was helpful, remember to give it a "thumbs up" and consider subscribing. New videos every Thursday*
-Website: www.ChrisFixed...
-Facebook: / chrisfix8
-Twitter: / chrisfixed
-Instagram: / chrisfixit
-Subscribe Here: www.youtube.com...
-RUclips Channel: / chrisfix
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.
Re-watching this in March 2024 👍
Did it work for you?
Idk what date or year it is rn
I swear, when I'm having a problem you upload a video addressing that certain problem a few days later. I need to get some silicon paste.
Liqhuid Haha, my ChrisFix senses are tingling.
Liqhuid Same here. I fixed a Ford truck last week with the very same problem. lol
ChrisFix I'm looking forward to seeing if your next video addresses my problem. If it does I'll be freaked out.
3M silicon paste £15 on ebay from USA or £45 on ebay from U.K W.T.F !
Same here Chris ... Went for a servicing the day before..... Noticed this issue.. And today this video was in my suggestion... N i was like...
Haa... Thts wat i really needed... 😅
I love your videos Chris! I'm only 13 but I hope to be a mechanic some day! Your videos have helped a lot!!!
Amazing man, keep it up soon enough you’ll change your own and ur friends brakes
🎓👨🏿🔧🛠⚒🦉👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👍🏿🙌🏾!!!
@@christiandemarcus2257 mans 16now
nice
18 now 😁 got car?
These frozen guide pins are usually caused by a damaged or mis-installed boot. If moisture gets past, it will eventually gum up and prevent the pin from floating properly. A wire wheel works wonders for cleaning the pins. Also don't forget to cleanup the bores as 1/2 the problem is inside too!
what about cleaning out the guide pin holes?
Also, after I clean the pin AND socket (hole...whatever it is), I install the boot on the pin and make sure there is plenty of lube still on it after the boot slides off the lube put on it initially.
In this video, the boot pushed off most of the the lube as he slid the pin in the hole.
This guy does fantastic videos.
Edit: I was not being sarcastic about his videos being fantastic. I have learned a lot and he does it without a bunch of needless talking.
You cannot get all the corrosion out by cleaning the slide pin bore. Its actually recommended to replace the caliper mount bracket with the new slide pins.
For the money you save doing it yourself just replace the caliper mounting bracket along with the pins, pads and rotors
@@rivieraauto8540 And? This is not structural, as long as it slides, it is ok.
@@aitorbleda8267 not sure what angle you're trying to play with the structural argument but what i would say is you're right..... its a safety related system..... therefore its not ok to do a cheap half ass repair for a customer who may potentially come back and sue you in the event that they end up in a crash. Or better yet can make you liable for criminal charges in the event someone is killed. Its happened before. Not really something you look at if you're doing your own brakes but, nonetheless if you're working on safety related components... moral of the story is do it right. If you dont replace the caliper bracket and slides together. They will continue to sieze once water gets passed the pitting from the corrosion that was cleaned off. Not something i necissarily consider fine.
After 9yrs. Cris fix still delivers!!!
Thank you for taking your time out to show us these repairs & tips.
+angelisone You are welcome!
ChrisFix can I put Synthetic Grease
It's not really "time out". He does these videos for income. It's a side gig. We pay him in ad views. ;)
(Turn off ad block)
That would be a hell of a lot of time out to not be getting paid though. Making videos of such a quality takes a lot of extra time I'm sure.
ChrisFix I saw a tear in the boot When you were separating the boot from the guide pin. It was at 3:16 of your film and appears to be already there. Amazing and helpful videos by the way.
Yo JoE Thanks for sharing! I will have to take a look at it! Good eye!
Did you also see the dent in the piston? That must be replaced too!
ChrisFix you don’t know squat let me see some ase certifications
@@thewrenchmaster122 Sit yo ass down boeee
@@chrisfix would you tell me why rear brakes worn out before front brakes
And is it necessary to adjust them all together
You can chuck the slide pins in a cordless drill and use 100 grit sandpaper or emery cloth to clean the rust and corrosion off them. Gives them a nice smooth finish and costs basically just time and sandpaper. Some pins have flat spots machined in them to retain the grease, so dont panic if you happen to see that.
Yet again, your videos showed me how to fix the exact same problem with my car. This is like the 4th or 5th video of yours that I've directly used to fix a problem. My wife's rear brakes started grinding two days ago. Brakes were installed at a shop just last year. The guide pins were all gunked up with some sort of horrible sticky lube (like rubber cement) that didn't allow them to move hardly at all. Cleaned them up, got the good grease on, and new brakes installed. Thanks for the video.
Awesome!!! That is what I like to hear!!!
Some car repair shops will use the wrong stuff to lube the pins and you won't notice it until much later when you hear noises from the brakes. Guide pin grease must be silcone based and made specifically for heat and good for use in contact with rubber boots.
Add to this video... Use a small wire brush and a good penetrating oil to clean out the hole that the guide pin rides in. Old pistol or rifle bore brushes work great!!
even just shooting some brake cleaner with the tube in there would be great
Stephen Maurer an appropriate sized drill bit used by hand with alternate brake cleaner spraying does the best job on stubborn clogged holes. You would be shocked at the amount of rust/petrified grease that can be stuck in there.
Rockitanski I use the drill bit method as well but I use a slightly small bit with a piece of scotch brite on the bit and spin it with the drill and it scrubs the hole clean and shiny in 5 seconds with some brake clean.
Rockitanski and
Right! That bore should be cleaned by whatever method you prefer. If it's left dirty, half the crud is still in there and it's half way to seizing again. Good video.
"You don't want to pierce the rubber." Ha! That's what she said.
Aw3someOpZ she never said that to me ever
Aw3someOpZ no way
Don’t know what kind of women your sleeping with 😂😂😂
😰😝
Ha ha 😝
I'd just hit that pin really well with a wire wheel! thow some rust preventative if that silicon don't do it. Save some MULA!
3DMachines Thanks man! That is what I ended up doing!
Zsasesss
never go cheap on brake parts, you life is worth more than few dollar
@@shawnkelly1241 how did you go from fixing brake to that?!!
@@ahoorakia i dont know lol.
"Don't want to pierce the rubber"
I'm sure I saw a hole in the bottom one.
Just to add that petroleum based grease is sometimes referred to mineral based grease. It should also be added that even other types of synthetic grease aren’t advised because they can make the rubber expand. Silicone grease is definitely the way to go for guide pins and anywhere plastic/rubber is in contact.
Some people do use a copper/ceramic grease for the break seats though because it is purely metal to metal contact.
Thanks for sharing!
Why did you not clean the bore the guide pins ride in?? The bore will be just as dirty as the pin was.
dieselworld Thanks! You should definitely clean the bore as well! Use some brake clean and a screw driver with a towel at the end to poke around!
Chris Fix for the win!
use a dremel with a wirebrus to clean out the bore and also take of the stainless steel brakepad slider of and clean the caliper bracket because rust will pushes the stainless steel slider against the sliding edge of the brakepad
lacossa nostra my Tundra has rubber boots inside the caliper holder. Just an FYI if I was to dremel that. She gone!
For the money you save doing it yourself just replace the caliper mounting bracket along with the pins, pads and rotors
do you clean the inside of the pin hole also? i assume grime build up is not just on the pin itself but inside the hole also?
+Colin Shum I would!! A dirty hole would cause future problems with your guide pin!!
How? By spraying brake cleaner inside the hole?
WARNING: I´m by no means an expert, but judging from all the car tutorial videos I´ve seen brake cleaner seems to be the solution for every kind of dirt or mud down there so I assume this could work
I use a cotton bud then spray then grease and burp the rubber you don't want air.
nope,total cleaning and replacing parts are required sometimes
Take a bore brush, (commonly used for cleaning gun barrels) and clean out all the rust from the female side of the equation in the caliper cage. First saturate with penetrating oil to break up the crud. Scrub it out with the brush, rinse with brake clean. Repeat and rinse as needed. A final swab of paper wrapped round a shaft, (1/4" extension, screwdriver or similar will do) to get out any final residue. Blow out with compressed air. A fiber optic inspection light is great to check your work on this kind of job.
Make sure you don't put too much grease inside the cage of your calipers. If you do your slides will not contract fully and When the pads wear down the brakes will fail to work. That's a bad thing.
Pure silicone grease is also sold under the brand name Silglyde, available in one shot packets at most parts stores, but NAPA sells it in large tubes and spray cans. It is one of my top go to lubricants, for brakes and all sorts of linkages that you never want to bind. It also works as dielectric grease.
how do you know the bore identifies as female, it might be two spirit, not good to gender judge mate, fix up
Bore brush a good idea! I just ordered a set from Princess auto 1/2 price $16.53. I always had problems cleaning the female hole out. I used to use brake cleaner and let it sit then Q tips. Your idea makes sense. Thanks.
Awesome tutorial as usual, Chris! I doubt most shops perform as complete a job as you do.
Thanks David!
David Sparling i doubt it too haha!
I know this is prob true for a lot of shops sadly but at mine, this is not the case at all. We, or at least, I go even above and beyond this when doing a brake job. I always remove everything and inspect it first really well. I sand blast the caliper brackets anchors really well so the new hardware and guide plates fit nice and flush, always use new hardware, new guide pin boots, brake clean everything, wire wheel the guide pins, all the bolts no matter their condition when removed, lube everything really well, including the caliper piston and guide pins before putting it back together, I make sure and clean out the guide pin holes too really well as old grease and gunk love to built up in the bottoms and stop the pins from being able to push in all the way like they should. Most people think the pins are bottoming out but really there is old lube in there keeping them from going in all the way which can allow air to get in there as well and cause the brakes to get overly hot, warp the rotors, burn the pads, or cause a grinding noise if the pins cannot move as designed. Also anti-seize all the bolts before putting them back on and making sure everything is tightened properly.
Id rather take the extra time now to do the job right the first time than have the customer come back a month later with brake noise that I now have to take all back apart and fix, usually on my time and not making any money in the process, unless it ends up being something unrelated to the brake job. U want customers to come back because u do good work, not because the work u already did isnt right.
Yeah they really don't. Some of them just replace the whole caliper without a proper diagnostic lol
I would have cleaned up the guide pin housing holes too, if there's crud on the guide pin it will be in the housing too, thanks for the video!
This. I noticed that my freshly cleaned/lubed pin would get stuck each time I reinserted until I cleaned, lubed, and reinserted it several more times. The first few times it would stick so hard I had to use my impact driver to free it up! Even though it wasn’t threaded I’d see smoke coming out after spinning it free with the impact. I’m replacing the whole caliper but I needed it to go back together in the mean time so I could get to work!
Another tip I would give for the new guys is don't over grease the pins. Liquid is incompressible meaning if the grease takes up too much space the pin can't move all the way to its retracted position, just a light film of grease is what you need.
I want to fill much of the space for dirt, water, and their corrosion byproducts, so I like to use excess lube, insert and compress fully, and wipe out the excess that squeezes out. Push them all the way in when fitting and the pins will only move out… which is the opposite of compressing. Of course, it might be hard to do this with some pin designs unless you take the bracket off the knuckle.
Excellent tutorial! If a rubber boot has a split in it I found as a temporary fix is to use liquid rubber . Brush it on boot and let dry. It dries flexible. Good until
you can get a replacement. It once worked for me. The stuff is used to cover bare spots in electrical wire insulation.
Good to know,thank you
So even if it looks like shes lubed up, and you can shove it back and forth. Never hurts to take it out, clean it, lube her up again properly, and shove it back in! Just for added safety ;-)
+BrysNightWorld #truth
BrysNightWorld 😂😂
Nice one guys! lol.
BrysNightWorld you damn right , thats what i did and i didn't know what i was doing when i changed my brakes, i just guessed and it turned out great lol and its been more than 3 years and no problems
BrysNightWorld she might need extra force to push all the way in the hole.
Great job. I noticed the caliper bracket was fairly loose, also going to need to turn that rotor or swap it out.
He was in the process of changing the rotors. That's why the bracket was loose.
@Mark Josiah lol
@Mark Josiahmom
Never ever waist your time turning a rotor. First off a brand new rotor isnt all that expensive and probably only 10 more then turning. Plus extra trip to get them turned. Now the issue of the rotor is thinner causing brake fade. I myself buy all new rotors at same time as pads. Now jack it up and do all 4 in my drive way in under 2 hrs. To turn the rotors have to have all 4 wheels up. Have to find a ride to drop them off then pick them up the next day. So much easier to just buy all at once. Only need 1 jack and so fast. Plus if old rotor stuck on you can hammer it off without a care. A few good wacks with a sledge and it will pop off. To worry too much damage just takes longer. But mostly brake fade from a thinner rotor and pain getting them turned to save 10 bucks. Lol i had a guy use a old rotor with new pads. The pads wore out faster so he wanted me to sand the pads smooth and put on a new rotor. Lol jokes i refused. Like dude new pads is new rotor. New rotor new pads. As per caliper pins i just buy new. On my suv they are 300 bucks but get 150 back for the old ones. So lol ya only 150 for brand new after returning the old one. Why waist time ordering pins when do all new and good for over 3 yrs. New calipers will last like 10 yrs. Sure not worth saving 150 bucks today but brakes wear out faster and now a year later gotta do it all over again any way. To save 100 today costs you a extra 300 tomorrow. Plus always spend the extra 20 today to buy premium parts. They will last 50% longer. I got premium rotors from amazon and carbon ceramic pads. All 4 rotors and pads around 350 bucks. 2 yrs later they barely even wore. I do live in a remote area so not often on the brakes but when i am its at high speeds. Never skimp out on brakes. The brakes most important part so never try to save a few bucks on the part that will save your life if needing to slow down fast. Even the axles not worth skimping out if go long drives. Gonna skimp on repairs then your safest bet it to just pay 800 per month and drive brand new for life. I sure dont wanna be rear ended by someone that saved 50 bucks on cheap brakes and turning rotors causing less braking power. Lose a axle no issue. Rear end me to save 50 bucks becomes a serious issue. Oh ya please use e brake often when park so that if brakes fail atleast can reduce damage in a crash by having a e brake that works and not siezed up by lack of use. Wont find out siezed until emergency.
@@shawnkelly1241 All depends on the vehicle.
Hell yea! So glad I discovered this channel. Clear and concise. Liked/subbed, mate
In addition to stuck guide pins, you should also check the surfaces that the pad shims are mounted to. A build up of rust on these surfaces under the shim pack will bind the pads resulting in similar uneven wear.
And sometimes you have to replace the shims. Ideally you should check this yearly especially if you live in snowy areas where snow ice and salt can rust those surfaces. Might not be a bad thing especially if you get more than 3 years out of the pads.
You are such a good teacher ChrisFix I never knew how important caliper guide pins were until now. Keep up these great videos.
Chris Thanks a lot man!
Yes I have seen many brake repair videos on-line and I don't remember the slide pins being covered. Great video Chris
Flammable 281 Thanks! I try to cover new things and this brake job presented the perfect opportunity.
The other thing to remember about your slide pins
when you’re doing the brake job theyre at room temperature and whilst they feel okay you don’t know how they feel when they’re red hot because they’re too hot to touch
so you’re well advised to always lubricate them to make sure that when they’re at operating temperature they still have the best chance of moving which is a different story to room temperature.........
Don’t forget metal expands if there’s any junk between the pin and the bore that stuff all expands
it might feel okay at room temperature and when it’s hot it might be jamming.....
Yeah, it could also be that loose caliper bracket (joking of course, cause I'm assuming you intentionally loosened those bolts for reasons not mentioned in the video). I'd also like to point out that uneven wear like that could also be cause by the pad ears binding up in the bracket. So always make sure they move freely when installing by doing a quick dry-fit, then apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the ears for final installation.
But to anyone else reading this, as an accord owner of 10 years and the current servicer of my fiance's CR-V, I STRONGLY advise you to actually remove the caliper bracket entirely and thoroughly clean out the pin holes and mating surface for the rubber boots with wire brush, Qtips, & brake cleaner (always finish with a final wash of brake cleaner in the pin holes, then let air dry). It's actually pretty difficult to get that completely cleaned out, which needs to be done if you're changing pin grease types or brands. Brackets are held on with only 2 bolts, but they're often seized on pretty good. Grab Kano Kroil penetrating oil and a breaker bar, and you'll have em off no problem. I know from too much experience that these Honda brakes are a nuisance. If not done correctly, you'll continue to have problems.
I had a seized up guide pin on my accord. I figured that's why my break pads weren't wearing properly just because I saw another one of your videos. Thanks for the help.
I had a guide pin that took me 4 hours of soaking, heating and banging to get out. Then I had to clean out the guide pin hole. Hard to believe that pin could be so hard to remove.
Mark Allison Crazy! It is amazing that they can be so hard to remove sometimes!
Mark Allison Seen a few get 'stuck'.. more likely some one forgot to grease it back up when re-installing.
Or the boot was not sealing and water got in and rusted.
Always use a silicone grease. Then you won't have issues. Another post said clean out the female hole the pin inserts into with a "bore brush" make sense. If the rubber is getting old replace as water and salt can get into the hole /pin and that causes the seizing issue. Cheers.
Next time swap out the bracket they are cheap
another great video. actually had this problem with my Altima.
You should also clean the hole where the pin lives
Pablo GR Definitely! Get some brake clean and a rag with a screw driver and clean it out! Thanks for the tip!
Yep.
Agreed. If the pin is seized in the bore and comes out looking crappy, you should expect the hole to be corroded/filled with cruddy grease too.
Yes & inspect with a bright light for corrosion.
Don't forget about rust jacking, clean rust from underneath the abutment clips with a file. The pads need sufficient clearance in the bracket.
Best mechanic channel on youtube! I knew I could count on you Chris!
Nice move using the tyre as failsafe in case the jack do fails you
It’s quite a common way of working..
3:17
a tear in the rubber boot
ekkrir Good eye, that is getting replaced with the new guide pins (they come in the kit with the new pins).
Did anyone even notice that , Chris took a clip from this video , and used it on a DriftStang video.
You are the shit my friend I love the way you explain things better then my teacher at school keep up the good work and that voice makes it easier to listen “big fan of yours” god bless your Chanel
Ale rina, widać że tam nigdy nie było zaglądane, czyszczone. Czekał aż zetnie klocki.
Thank you so much! This was happening to mine and I thought I was gonna have to replace the caliper. But upon replacing the pads I had a bolt on each side that was stuck. I did what you did and amazing... it worked perfectly. Now even wear. Thank you again.
They make caliper grease that is made just for the slides. It's green
joeyf504327 Silicon grease works great. It doesn't wear out the rubber boots and it doesn't solidify in winter.
Always use silicone on the pins, it works the best. Silicone will repel water and will not rot the rubber boots. I have used both. The silicone is better.
Hi Chris. Regarding inner & outer brake pads, what causes one pad to wear out so much quicker than the other? Anything we can do to ensure more even inner/outer pad wear? Thanks for the great videos! -Cheers.
The inner pad is the first one to make contact with the piston and the disc, so it will naturally be the first one to wear out more than the outer.
Hey Chris... I have a question. I tried to change my brake rotors on two of my cars. When I took the bolts out, one would not seat right and and even when I installed the bolt by hand the torque it, it would not go in fully and started to cross thread. I'm not sure why this happened on both my cars as these are new cars and the first time the bolts would have been removed. I bought new bolts and still, the thread was cross thread inside the caliper. How can I prevent this? Why did this happen? Could it be that it was already cross threaded when it was built? Thanks so much.
Wow this is a good information for basic maintenance. Lol I didn't watch this tutorial when a day I subscribe to Chris channel five years ago.
Now at least I watch now, and I learned something new even though the tutorial was seven years ago. Well its never too late.
Thank you for the information Chris. I've never thought about checking the guide pins before. It's always good to learn something new.
Great observation. Thanks for the tip and keep the heads up!
Good luck
Great video, definitely a big fan of your channel but based on my own experience with how unevenly worn out the inside pads were along with the caliper pins, cracked boot, rusted brake hardware, and rusted piston. I usually just go to my local auto parts store and buy re-manufactured calipers with the housing for around 55.00 plus lifetime warranty! A lot easier to replace and big time saver!
+Harrison Edgar thanks and thanks for the tip!
Put some elbow grease on the wheel bearing
Good idea! ;)
Good thing a lot of cars have slider boots that you can't get off without getting the slider pin out first. Sucks ass when you have to take a torch to the caliper bracket to free that slider up. Pro tip: Never stand in front of a stuck slider pin while heating it with a torch. Do enough of these and you'll find out why. Hopefully not the hard way.
Learning a lot now from these videos in quarantine
0:26 "you can see, sum ting wong"
I'M SUCH A FAN OF YOUR CHANNEL & YOUR IN DEPTH KNOWLEDGE. TOP MARKS 👍👍👍
Thanks for the support!
Caliper pistons don’t move out unevenly & what about cleaning out the blind hole where the stuck guide pin was?
Very useful video without much unwanted explanation. I liked it. Thanks for your share
My first girlfriend taught me the three keys to maintenance: CLEAN IT. LUBE IT. If you're not having fun, you're doing it wrong.
How bout those rusty clips? where the Brake pads ears sit on..
For the money you save doing it yourself just replace the caliper mounting bracket along with the pins, pads and rotors
A caliper piston cannot come.e out unevenly... only in your dreams.
lol nice one ; -)
Has anyone found that using the silicone lubricant on guide pins with rubber ends makes too much of a hydraulic seal and then you have this vacuum problem? I have found that if I use the silicone lubricant I get this suction problem on the pin and it is a bugger to get out - even if it is only a small amount of silicone.
Should have cleaned guide pin hole with brake clean and a brush. the harden grease on the pin is also in the hole. And then lubed the hole with using a Q tip or small brush. Some holes have a rubber o-ring inside which will wipe of the pin as its inserted.
My guide pin was stuck like a mofo.
So glad I found this channel, thanks Chris
+colutuber Glad you like the channel!
...I also clean the piston on the caliper before retracting it back in when replacing new disc pads....
3:16 the Rubber boot has a hole, I done this before And replace the boots, love your Videos Thanks for showing other people how to do their job😉
Thanks!
Thanks for your videos👍👍Helping me save a ton of cash.
at 3:12 you poked a hole through the rubber.
Good eye!
Unless he punctured it off camera, this is an old hole. You can see the hole at 3:16-3:17, and it's on the back of the boot, nowhere near where Chris levered it.
You should replace that boot though, no doubt. This makes me wonder if guide pins and rubber boots are sold separately or together.
That hole is on 180 degrees the other side from where he poked. The hole was already there.
Top tutorial. Thank you.
David C bus roft
huge fan
+Jose Ruiz thanks for the support Jose
I use Red rubber grease on caliper guide pins, as recommended by Toyota.
Now I know why my pads are warn just like yours were. Thanks man.
1:09 when my girlfriend says go deeper.
Also note: look at the back of the pad to find a raised peg/lug - seen in front of the third finger in that video still. That engages into one of the four slots in the piston face. The piston as seen if this video did not have a slot aligned with that peg, the piston should be rotated so a slot is facing directly rearwards - visibly centred when looking into the caliper from behind. I don't know why they have this feature but look out for it as that would cause another issue of uneven wear.... if it even gets in of course.
You didn’t have to do knock out the pin with a hammer, you could’ve used a wrench and twist the pin out.
Sometimes need to use heat
Why wouldn’t you knock the pin out with a hammer? Hammering it seems to me like a whole lot more effective solution than twisting.
Someone is going to offer you a television spot real soon. That's my prediction?
Thank you for your videos Chris! I noticed at 3:17 that your lower Guide Pin Boot has a tear in it - best to replace it now before it totally corrodes the Pin - been there, done that! :-)
Thanks for the very appropriate reminder about inspecting the caliper pins. On my last brake job I found the rear guide pins were all almost seized. I removed all four and cleaned them, using some 120 grit sandpaper to remove the worst of the rust - then some 400 grit paper to polish the pins. BEFORE reinstalling them I also used break cleaner spray and a cloth to clean out all the old debris from inside the caliper. I've also used a steel drill bit of the correct size, turning it by hand ONLY, to get as much dirt/corrosion out as possible. Once that was done I used the silicone paste to lube the pins and install them. My brakes worked like new.
im only 13 and i know so much about cars
same here only 14 years old
+Kevin Veldman its easyyyy
george psy yes it really is
:p
+Adam Steele Me too, i'm learning for truck driver but i do want to be a car mechanic too for hobby.
just replaced my Honda 2017 front brakes with 31200 miles because of a squeaking noise I would get from the front left wheel assembly , the noise was more noticeable while applying the brakes, when I took the pads off the Rt and Lt outboard pads were worn out twice as much as the inboard pads, matter of fact the was hardly any difference in thickness between the new and old inboard pads, not so with the out board witch were worn out to half the original thickness. All the hardware was in good shape, caliper just fine, guide pins clean with free movement, the sliding or guide clips ok as well, for the life of me I can see why so much wear on on pad and not the other, only think I can think of is the pads have holes drill on top near each end were a spring like clips go, this springs are design to push pads away from the pads when brakes are not been apply, well both brakes sets only have the upper spring installed, seems to me that there should be on upper and lower spring, can't think of anything else. Any thoughts? By the way the squeaking noise is gone......Thanks Sergio.
Interesting that you have brake issues that early on for that car, but it could be bad bushings or slides if the outboard brakes are wearing differently!
Thanks, Chris. All your videos have been helpful to me.
Glad to hear it! That is exactly why I make these videos!
That Silicone grease will come in handy when rebuilding that rear caliper, inside wise.
Your videos are great and you usually cover all the details but I think you missed an important one here. Most lubricants are not compatible, mixing different brands over time can produce nasty results even if they are the same base element, you should have cleaned the bracket holes and boots.
Thanks for sharing, silicone is actually compatible with everything, but I do agree in researching which fluids are compatible with others!
Should have cleaned out the old grease where the pin locates too
Totally forgot to clean or mention the guide pin holes on the bracket as they too are rusted!!! Modify the video please. Newbies will forget too.
I go over that in my brake replacement videos, this is just for fixing uneven brake wear!
Can you do a video on how to replace the seal on the piston of the caliper?? I have uneven brake wear on my pads and I replaced the guide pins and boots, and greased them all up but it's still wearing down.
I can make a video about that! Thanks for the video idea!
Chris fix ..You missed this the caliper piston position that your showing the uneven pad ware on. 1 the caliper piston was not aligned correctly. The + cross I call it was in the x position not allowing the inner brake pad tab to sit in the + position you can clearly see the the rust on the caliper piston showing it was in the wrong clocked position causing the pad ware from top to bottom on the inside pad ..The slider pin stuck ligit situation . Pads stuck in the hard ware or bridge that don't move freely cheese wedge type wear side to side not ...All in all I see this mistake alot of spin back calipers ..If the pads have alignment tabs they have to go in the correct positions ..
Great video! I HAD a Santa Fe that had this same problem at around 40,000 miles and I had to replace the brakes myself because Hyundai claimed it was normal "wear and tear" not covered by the warranty. It's nice knowing now what the issue could have been and that I made a good decision not to buy another vehicle from them.
+Bobby0345 Thanks! I leased a Hyundai santa fee that need a new engine after the first 2000 miles. Thankfully it was a lease and I didnt own it!
Can I use any dielectric grease? Is that the same as silicone paste? Cuz I’m having trouble finding silicone paste.
I vary the grease to what was originally installed.
How can I find someone in Cleveland to fix brakes cheap. I'm a senior and they want 1,000 I am on disability ty God bless
Tom Tracy
Janice Tracy what’s wrong with them?
can you tell me if uneven drag can make traction control light stay on in chevy hhr?
The uneven wear itself shouldn't but if you have an issue like a seized piston then that can cause one of those lights to come on. I'd recommend scanning your car and seeing what traction control code you have
The more ase certifications I get the more I realize how much these lil RUclips diy guys don’t really know it funny just replace the guides wen you get new pads all together
So dont grease a ball joint, just replace when they wear out? At $12/wheel I'll grease the pins and prevent the issue from happening. It's called MAINTENANCE. U dont toss perfectly good guide pins. He refused one after cleaning and greasing it cuz parts store didnt have it.
I don’t think all this work is necessary for a Honda. Just put the car in the yard and get a real car.
Thanks for sharing!
Great tip, make sure to put rubber on the pin first before the grease as it leaked out trying to slide it in the cover.
Thanks for sharing!
This is an old video with millions of views and tons of comments, but if you do see it, how would remove a pin that was truly completely seized? As in it doesn't move at all, rebound, twist or anything. I think the pin is gummed in so hard like cement or something. It might take a ball peen hammer or something to get it out. I don't think i can remove the pin without possibly damaging some of the hardware (caliper). Since it's the front caliper, it doesn't separate from the bracket, and i'd rather not have to replace the entire front caliper assembly, which would also entail bleeding all four wheels, making a relatively cheap and simple repair to an much longer and expensive one. Thanks for your videos; you do great, impressive and easy to follow work, explaining it very well.
Thanks a lot! You would have to try tapping it out or see if you can spray something like silicone to loosen it up!
@@chrisfix Silicone spray over penetrating oil? Interesting. Thanks for the prompt response.
What kind of paper towels do you use? Just normal house hold paper towel?
They are called shop towels
Whats the cause of wiggling when breaking on a slightly high speed?
More than likely, your rotors are warped, I would get them replaced!
Damn! I wish I had seen this before. Once again I learned something new I should have used before. What a useful video! Should have found this channel years ago.
Man your videos are awesome love seeing that the shade tree mechanics are still alive and working I work on vehicles as well bc I had to learn how to fix them and it’s become an awesome hobby I have two I’m slowly restoring keep up the good work
All i have is hi temp grease for my pins is it really that bad to use it
Not good...it will cause the rubber to swell which can cause the boots to jam up the pin if gets lodged in the pin guides. Moly-Lube or PBR caliper grease.
Brian Douglas said suck it Chris fix