Rusty Rotors: What Causes Rust Jacking on Rotor Inboard Only?
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
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Have you ever experienced a rotor with rust jacking only on the inboard side? If you were to inspect the rotor through the wheel, the rotor would actually look fine. However, upon removing the rotor you rust and corrosion built up on the inboard of the rotor?
In this video, we discuss what causes this condition.
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Just had this happen on my moms 2009 ford edge sel. Interesting that I see an edge in the video and other commenters with edges.
My mother drives only 1 km to work and back so it does fit the description in this video of not being driven.
I purchased coated Brembo rotors and Bosch ceramic pads , fully cleaned and greased the pins and cleaned the boots. I also wire brushed and cleaned and put a antisieze on the pad guides and used synthetic grease on the contact points for the pads. I’m quite ocd about these things but I believe I know what the issue is.
I believe the issue is aftermarket pads fitting too tight into the guide clips. Even with the grease in place I think once heated up when braking these pads basically wedge into the clips and make the issue worse getting stuck in place.
Going forward I will dremel and machine the pad tabs to make sure there is a slight amount of free play between the pad tabs and the shims/guides hopefully preventing them from seizing in place
Huge thanks!
I just got my 21 VW arteon on a mid February with only 22k on it, my rear breaks are bad already, and now I’m pretty sure why, I contacted already dealer and asked them if they’re ok to split the cost of expenses, cause I noted that when fist test drive the car and pointed on that, they told me it’s should be gone soon , it’s just because the car haven’t been drove much … so, looking forward to get new breaks🙏🏼
Nice explanation - thanks! But most drivers just don't have much experience or trust in themselves to maintain their cars - too bad. Salty roads do make money for some, might save lives, but what a cost in total...hm...
excellent video with explanation, friends ford edge has the exact same problem even though i thoroughly cleaned below the anti-rattle clip and applied brake grease, shows the importance of doing a brake service more frequently.
I would have liked to have seen the other wheels brakes too.
I doubt fully coated rotors will help to prevent this, since the coating is not in the breaking surface. I doubt it is the moisture either. I have the same problem on outside side, while inside is ok. The seized pad and/ it pins is probably the cause
In my BMW just replaced rotors pads full service found a warped pin replaced cleaned everything and already have my front left giving weird signs occasionally when I had to brake hard for a stop and it locked up quite a bit and pulsed. Then today after a lot of rain I noticed the front left again is just starting to scar on the outside who knows about the inside it’s brand new pad and rotor and the bigger issue is it never fixed any vibration from me cleaning and replacing.
Great Description Of how brakes get to Rusty, thank you.
If the pads somehow were always allowed to move freely would the rotor still rust as we see it? OR, is the fact that the pads do freeze up, and then they don't wipe the rotor surface much, or at all, the main reason why the rotor surface rusts?
I can't believe there are only 4 comments on this. This video really spills the beans on why many luxury cars have costly brake jobs at 20-30k kms. Its really premature but the cause appears to be exactly what the tech says in the video - not driving far enough. Sounds counter intuitive but it seems like the you almost have to ride the brakes to get them up to temp so they can evaporate any moisture still left on the rotor faces.
Absolutely, I have a friend with a bmw and due to the lockdown he left it parked in the same spot for 6 months and only started and revved it once a week to charge the battery. He told me he took it into a mechanic for an oil change and surprise surprise- extreme rust on the rotors.
@@qtyopd yah, the bigger catch is my wifes car developed this inboard rust jack from normal driving, but it looked like the commutes wete too short to warm up the rotors, as per the video.
How far would you recommend driving, and how many times a week? Also for long stretches of highway sonetimes there is not a lot of braking. Do you think it's better to go far with lots of braking vs. taking a long highway with little braking? Thanks for sharing your opinion. It's very helpful!
@@qtyopd i dont think its about distance. Wish @raybestos would chime in about how to prevent this but, i think it needs the rotors to cool from airflow to prevent condensation from accumulating on the surfaces. So... i guess after heavy braking say u live in a valley or at the foot of a hill, u gotta hard brake, then it sits and the condensation builds up as ur parked... i guess brake as u need but do a victory lap around the block before parking....?
Have this on my “new for me” 2013 RAM. When repairing I’ve noticed that they do not use the steel clips in the bracket like we are used to seeing. The pad just rides in the bare bracket. I think that has a lot to do with this issue n my case.
There is a "rust belt" that causes brakes to rust? 😂
Tea
This is the problem on my 750i... outside of the rotor looks great, inside is corroded. Assume they have to be replaced then eh? Car isn't driven too much at all, ~40K miles, 2017. Thanks for the video.
Great video very helpful 👍 thanks
Really handy!! Thanks 🙏
Good info thanks
This might be due to that stuck pad not returning to a relaxed position, it's gotten so hot that it practically welded itself to the rotor, it was likely glowing red to the point the metal is soft, and this created the deformed surface on the inner part of the rotor. Then when it cooled off and was driven those groves eventually cut into the brake pads, creating that wear pattern.
Ultimately the problem is mechanics that call a brake job "i'm doing a pad slap", they don't make sure everything is clean on the important surfaces, moving right, lubed right, instead they just take out the old pads and put new ones in.
I have the same problem, only on the outside. There's 2 grooves that may stick out about 1mm. So what's going on? Help would be appreciated thanks
How badly would that effect cars with 4 or 6 piston Callipers? I'm planning on buying a Challenger with the 6 piston Brembo fronts.
I got brembo 4 pistons on my Touareg and I get this exact same issue on the front brakes, the inboard pads are stuck in rust.
@@JoRioux what distance is your average commute?
@@andrewlee88 not much, its been sitting for a while
@@JoRioux wifes x1 does a whole 1.3km to and from work.. its got pretty bad inboard rotor rust yet the outboard sides look completely fine. 28k kms on the vehicle. This video is the only thing i found that comes close to describing the cause of the issue and i've been working on cars for 15 yrs...
@@andrewlee88 yea dude, in Canada there is no mercy for brake rotors. I've never only changed pads without changing the rotors, they always got changed together.
a lot of problem but no solution demonstrated.
mmmkay
No airflow
K,k,ok, right, k. Ok?
Your sound is terrible.