Looks to me like the issue is with the caliper, which wasn't properly cleaned and lubricated when the pads were changed, which prevented proper operation of the caliper and full pad contact on the inside surface of the old rotor. The benefit of the coated rotor is that it prevents corrosion between the hub and the rotor and will make it easier to remove the coated rotor from the hub at replacement time.
After a couple of years they end up looking the same. Coated discs just delay the onset of rust for a little while. There is value in that, but it's kind of overblown.
@@89Ayten Maybe buys an extra year in the salt belt. Rotors are usually trashed when it times to change pads here. And if you don't change them they will likely become unsafe in a year.
I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
The main reason I use coated discs is that they stay looking nicer for longer. I have never had an issue with corrosion creeping across the brake surface with any discs or pads.
I have these, I live in Ohio. initially, they do look better for a longer time. They do still rust but it takes a year to a year and a half before it’s noticeable. after three years they’re basically totally rusted and need replaced. Worth the extra $10-$20 per rotor. IMO
Agree that the wear on the back is caused by a seized caliper. I had this exact problem on a couple cars. New calipers, rotors and pads fixed it. The NAPA calipers are great.
Good product, used them to replace the worn out (22K) rotors on my 13 Ram. Very reasonable cost for the quality. Especially compared to OEM and the coating is holding up nicely. PS: please lose the goofy fake metal music in the background.
In NY state they salt the roads so much in the winter that uncoated rotors look like that after 2 years. Coated ones will last longer - but the rust still creeps in under the edges of the pads. They might make it to 5 to 7 years.
I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
A very informative video. Thanks for producing it. Has anyone noticed a reduction in braking power after going through a car wash? Even after my brakes are dry, even days, weeks or months later it seems like there is a reduction in stopping power. I’m assuming that it is due to the waxes used getting absorbed into the pads. Anyone have any thoughts or answers? Thanks...
I have Sachs coated discs on my car and before that, Zimmermann coated discs. They look good for a while and after a winter looks all rusty. I see no silver color anywhere after 4 years. Just as bad as my non-coated Brembo discs looked like.
Just aesthetic benefit. Who's ever had a brake rotor/disc rust out before being worn out. There is rust on the inside of the disc in the vid because the slider pin was seized causing the pad to not fully contact the disc.
I think inside brake pad touches disc first then outside pad touches disc, that`s why most of the time inside pad is little more worn out than outside pad and pins just controlling outside pad. I think there is some worth information in this video.
@@wilkas159 Usually the smaller inboard pad means sliders not fully functioning and the unequal pressure on the pad is a sticking caliper piston. usually also caused by rust around the seal/seal failure.
I've just experienced this... rear rotors so rusted out they had to be replaced. Not because of wear, but because of rust, and at less than 100K miles.
Is it true that you want coated for open-wheel designs, and regular uncoated will probably suffice for traditional wheels that are covered by hub caps?
It's not smart to do but it will wear off with friction obviously. But again, not smart because it will inhibit braking force and create a lot of excess dust.
I put sets of four on two different cars and almost a year later, I confirmed the polymer has come off on sections of the hub appearing burned off. Can't confirm how the rotor veins look but I would seek another coating option. Great in theory but this "polymer" does not seem to hold up well not sure if it is worth the expence.
does anyone know what metals BREMSEN coated brake rotors are made of? i cant find this info anywhere not even on their box! my mechanic assures me they are cast iron but BREMSEN's site says the rotors take up to 400c (750F)....
I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
I installed coated rotors like this on my Toyota.There is a faint grinding noise when you apply the brakes.Could it be the coating wearing out?Are they suppose to do this.I usually buy non-coated rotors and they are usually much more quieter.
Did you change your guide pins/bushings or at least clean them up and lube them as well as living the contact points of the hardware to brakes? Also you will need to bed them (breaking in). If you skip this process noticed will develop and your brakes won't be as effective.
The coating comes in zinc, or black. I prefer the black coating since you have a fairly immediate and consistent way of determining where the coating wears off. Ideally the coating should wear off on the pad contact surface and rest of rotor should stay black. The coating is usually the same just sometimes manufacturers use different color dyes to get the effect. My slotted rotors are about two months old and still have the black except for the pad contact surface.
It's NOT Zinc, it's polymer coated, Silver coating is Polymer and black is a high temp paint, Silver Polymer is going to be better to prevent rust. It has nothing to do with "different color dyes".
Why polymer coating? Why not galvanized? Paint flakes off, especially under heat and vibration. Electroless or electroplated zinc would be much more tenacious, and prevent rust from sneaking under the edge of the coating.
how long do they remain rust free? I dont think that zinc is very durable because I saw another vid where the guy took off the wheel and the coating came off with ease....Can anyone recommend a industrial coating that could be used to coat rotors?
their's brake caliper paint, but you'd have to use and old set of pads (they will get ruined) to take it off where the pads will hit. If you don't get brake cleaner on it the zinc will be fine. Did that person use something other than water/maybe soap if he got oil on them?
almost 3 years I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
I question because of the coating present where the brake pads compress onto the rotor, if the initial bedding-in process of the brake pads is affected in any way by that coating between the rotor and pad? I'm aware that the coating in this area of the rotor will eventually be removed with time but is the braking efficiency effectiveness the same as bedding-in brake pads with non-coated or partialy coated rotors (only hat/veins)? If the braking efficiency is less in comparison than I rather not purchase fully coated rotors.
If i was inspecting it I would advise the customer about the issue but it's not significant enough to fail over. Technically, so long as rotor hasn't reached the Min thickness it would still pass.
@@SerenoOunce nice. I suspect a lot of pretty good rotors head for the steel bin but that being said I did the front rotors and pads on the wifes corolla for $97 delivered to the door 30000 kms ago and just recently had the wheels off and the inside is just now starting to get a lip on it... So for the Price it's pretty cheap... That being said just pad slapped my tundra they had lots of thickness and are still smooth as butter...so I dunno. Some shops probably recommend rotors every time the pads are worn... I think you could get a couple sets of pads to a rotor
Question: Why did NAPA stop putting threaded push-holes in their rotors for Subarus? I'm dreading the removal process the next time I have to change rotors... :-(
@@shippo72 I live in upstate NY. I've used a lot of anti-sieze and/or Silglyde on the hub, but it still requires me to remove (or bend) the dust shields in order to get a 3-jaw puller on the rotor. (The salt here is so nasty... Sometimes even lubed up brake pad ears will seize into the caliper brackets!) Where I live, applying anti-seize makes absolutely no difference and we NEED the threaded holes here. Before with the threaded holes, I'd get the rotors off within two minutes with the two bolts I keep with my brake tools, regardless of application of lubricant. (Having lubricant will maybe make for a quieter removal... no lubricant means the rust will break with a BANG!)
I got my car brakes changed to new ones with new rotors and calipers, with a coated rotor. As I drove away i hard a screeching noise, the mechanic said that the rotor coating is sticking to the pads and causing this, is this normal? will the noise go away as I drive more or is this a mechanic issue that should not have occurred initially?
It is not normal if you replace both rotors and pads. Never replace only the rotors if the previous rotors have a weird pattern. Screeching noise is often caused by non-OEM back shims and not properly lubed the back of the shims in contact with the pads. Just drive it for few more days and if it does not go away, ask your mechanics to properly lube the back of the pads and the contact points with the shims.
@@insideyourshelter Do you also replace the pads? If you have proper tools (Jack, Jackstand, and some wrenches), you can just remove the brake pads and clean it. Lube with the silicon grease the backing plate and the shims. Screeching noise is usually metal-metal contact, and squealing noise is usually caused by vibration from the pads and shims. If you go to Franchise mechanics, you can always call the manager and asked for a warranty claim. Or call their national customer service. I had a similar bad experience before with the SEARS service center. They do not flush the brake fluid although I paid for it. I can see it directly from how the reservoir was not touched and all the bolts on the bleeding screw are still full of dust. I called the 1800 number and they refund all my money. I never go to that shop again because it could be personal and they may sabotage your cars such as tearing rubber boots or something that is not easy to detect. Just be polite and firm, and patient, and they may give you a warranty without any fight. If they deny yours, you should start looking for a better shop for a second opinion and check their jobs.
@@rondhole for sure, thank for you the advise this is helpful. I did pay for the full job and it's a European car but a family mechanic shop. Not a large franchise.
That is NOT typical of an uncoated rotor to look like that on the back side from what I've seen and I've probably changed >20 rotors on my cars over the last 15 years. May help a little bit but don't be fooled by this video!!!!!!
This is pretty normal in rust belt areas. But other locations wont see much from coated unless they want them to look shiny longer. Also, cars with splash/dust guards on their brakes may not see this wear pattern. My subaru for instance, does not show this, but my wifes car, a saturn, does. One has a splash/dust guard, the other does not.
Seems like a goofy video. Coated rotors are great but the back pad coverage/swept area had nothing to do with coatings. Wrong size pad or some problem with the caliper piston.
WTF? You have changed more than 20 rotors on your car in the last 15 years? That's 2+ sets of rotors. You a nascar mechanic, burning them up racing? I do all my own work and have only replaced 6 sets on 3 cars/trucks over 25 years and most of that was because I lived in DC (80mph to dead stop and back on it etc.) for a spell and 2 times had caliper malfunctions.
Apparently they haven't been out long enough for an equivalent long term comparison test. Just theory at this point that there will be an improvement in longevity with no sacrifice in performance.
@@dtrrtd774 Except they've been around for decades, just zinc coated instead of whatever this polymer thing is. It doesn't really matter what it is either, as long as it can take the heat and stop the rust.
So you made a mistake and bought a bare steel trailer or something (yeah I know that's absurd, but hey that's what we do with brake rotors ¯\_(ツ)_/¯), and it rusted to pieces. Then you go to the trailer store and complain that their galvanized trailers aren't rusty so you can't tell if it will rust or not. Do you realize how dumb that sounds?
Except it is not true so your understanding is fatally flawed. The video seems to take the old adage that if you repeat a lie often enough, you will be believed.
Yeah it was the seized rusted pin. Why did he run with a corrosion lie when the pins were not moving freely. Just take them off lube it up with rotor anti seize grease. Boom problem fixed. Swept corrosion sham only works on ladies in shops not people on internet. Lol
Today, all manufacturers of OEM replacement rotors offer coated versions. They shouldn't be considered ultrapremium but more economical, because compared to more frequently replacing shorter-lived uncoated rotors. The one time added $10-15 for a coated rotor, more than pays for itself in brake component longevity and saved labor.
not necessary I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
Ive used these Napa rotors before and they never seem to last very long before warping. Rotors where the non-contact parts are painted are probably okay but I don't believe there should be any coating on the braking surface.
i dont think so by the way Honestly I am not a very tech savvy however I always buy brakes from geobrakes.com And they sell on really cheap price but thr quality is good
@@randallturner8048 On the zinc coated ones it'll make it look ugly and splotchy (but you can only really tell on the black zinc ones) but it will still stop rust. If it doesn't get all splotchy and ugly within a minute, then it didn't do anything. (And I'd imagine these "polymer" coated ones are more resistant to chemicals)
@@nickopedia5669 Thanks, I noticed that that there didn't appear to be any oil on them out of box. I sprayed them anyway. Now, I know there is no need for brake cleaner on this type. I looked today, and I did notice a little bit of sploch, but mine are silver so it's not noticeable.
Only one reason that inside pad wore like that and created so much rust. A shitty job done by installer. Unless of course it's the vehicles first brake job. When you install brakes, remove the slides, clean and lubricate them. And lube all contact points of pads in bracket. Make sure new pads slide in freely. I've had to grind down a handful of napa pads that had so much paint on them you'd need a hammer to install them. Nice idea with the coating but it's to thin and won't last. Hell , you can wipe it off with brake clean.
so it just a brake disc with a polymer paint ? be cheaper to do it yourself with a spray of polymer paint with the colour of your choice.. red or yellow etc to match your callipers if they are painted.
Painting a rotor yourself can cause thickness variations leading to more problems. Our Ultra Premium Coated Rotors have a polymer coating that is robotically applied ensuring even distribution so that minimal lateral runout tolerances are met; today’s tolerances are tighter than ever before. With today’s aggressive metallic brake pads and ceramic materials that actually transfer onto the rotor surface, you should not have pad to rotor contact unless you are applying the brake pedal. If the rotor has too much “wobble” or lateral runout when installed, constant pad to rotor contact will occur even when you are not braking. That constant contact causes thickness variation issues and results in the brake pedal pulsating when braking. Checking rotor runout must be part of every brake job.
@@NAPABRKVideos That's nonsense. If the rotor itself has runout it will be there with or without the coating. Once you install it and apply the brakes, the coating is scrubbed off the friction surface and it did not matter if it was evenly applied or not. No you don't need to check rotor runout if you buy quality rotors guaranteed to within the specs you're aiming for. If you mean checking runout on old rotors there is still no need becaue if excessive it will be evidenced by the pulsating, and you will see the glaze and deposits embedded in the rotor surface. There is then no question of measurement, rotor must be replaced.
@@stinkycheese804 Or you can check the runout on your brand new rotors so that you can return them if they are out of spec instead of wasting money and dealing with pulsing brakes
Napa parts use to be good Parts made in USA But Now every part i have seen from NAPA is CHINA Made the same coated rotors at autozone , Advance are probably made by the same CHINA MFG .
Lack of Airflow + Moisture = Rust over time. Not sure what is so odd about that. The pad area shouldn't be impacted by this; however, unless something impacts the caliper so that the pad isn't making proper contact with the rotor. (e.g. even if rust forms on contact area, when the brakes are engaged, that rust should get burned right off) I can't speak if the rust in the non-contact area will really cause issues or not; however, I would think this is more appearance than performance.
that is complete rubbish. New rotors are painted so they don't rust wile sitting in a warehouse. Before they were oiled but nowdays they prefer painting them. No paint will stay on any rotor and this new ones will soon looks like the old ones mainly because temperature but also from the winter salt, rain, brake dust etc. All new cars have painted rotors and even those old rotors were once painted. Uneven brake pattern is due to the hard braking and to high temperature but your are correct that back side get less air thus inner pads gets hotter and when the temperature is above the design pads stars to bleed material to the rotor.
you're so right! Only this "brake specialist" is ignorant... I guess he has not heard about false advertisement class action suits. I bet he used to sell ATF snake oil. ..
That is absolutely BS, Sir !! You are looking at a disc where the caliper has been faulty for a long time, causing an abnormal wear pattern. The pad pressure is slightly lower at the disc lip than it is at the center. The coating is an extremely thin layer, which is being worn off on the first drive after fitting. Then the friction surfaces are exposed to oxygen, and start to corrode. On a correctly functioning brake system the surface corrosion will be polished away by the pads. But on this example, as half of the inner pad is not touching the disc, the corrosion will cause the disc to become severely pitted. It would have been same outcome on a coated disc.
What a load of crap. The wear difference came from the caliper not the rotor. With modern brake material, rotors are discarded with the pads. Unless you live in a high rust area the ''coating'' makes no difference. If the rotor is machined properly the and you don't live in the rust belt the coating gets you nothing.
I bought high quality zinc rotors. After 4 thousands the top of the rotor is rusted. So don't get fooled. You better buy not coated and spraying them with high heat resist paint. Cheaper and replicable.
Couldn't pay attention to the video. Was rocking out to the music 🤣🤣🤣
Why the music?
It's quite disturbing.
I want to hear the man what he's saying not the music...
We want information, NOT
music.... especially annoying music.
Looks to me like the issue is with the caliper, which wasn't properly cleaned and lubricated when the pads were changed, which prevented proper operation of the caliper and full pad contact on the inside surface of the old rotor. The benefit of the coated rotor is that it prevents corrosion between the hub and the rotor and will make it easier to remove the coated rotor from the hub at replacement time.
Good video. Lower the music volume or get rid of it though
Shows a used "uncoated" rotor. I think there would be more value in showing the difference showing a coated rotor after the same amount of wear.
After a couple of years they end up looking the same. Coated discs just delay the onset of rust for a little while. There is value in that, but it's kind of overblown.
If you watched the video, its a polymer coating... were you expecting the black coating?
@@89Ayten Maybe buys an extra year in the salt belt. Rotors are usually trashed when it times to change pads here. And if you don't change them they will likely become unsafe in a year.
Honestly I am not a very tech savvy however I always buy brakes from geobrakes.com
And they sell on really cheap price but thr quality is good
I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
The main reason I use coated discs is that they stay looking nicer for longer. I have never had an issue with corrosion creeping across the brake surface with any discs or pads.
I coat the whole surface of my dic
Tell me you dont live in the rust belt
@@michaelreale3647 I am un the UK, all of the country is a rust belt due to salt on the roads in Winter.
All new rotors are nice and shiny. Would like to see what that coated rotor looks like after a few years.
look ..new shiny part , look .... old rusty part. are part must be better.
The coated rotor is very much rust free just like a good zinc coating on iron blocks rust from occurring.
I have these, I live in Ohio. initially, they do look better for a longer time. They do still rust but it takes a year to a year and a half before it’s noticeable.
after three years they’re basically totally rusted and need replaced.
Worth the extra $10-$20 per rotor. IMO
Agree that the wear on the back is caused by a seized caliper. I had this exact problem on a couple cars. New calipers, rotors and pads fixed it. The NAPA calipers are great.
Good product, used them to replace the worn out (22K) rotors on my 13 Ram. Very reasonable cost for the quality. Especially compared to OEM and the coating is holding up nicely.
PS: please lose the goofy fake metal music in the background.
For Ram brakes you can try geobrakes.com they sell all oem brakes
Rotors are designed knowing they will rust, they do not lose performance. The guy even shows us the uneven wear was caused by the caliper.
Great video!
thank you. very good explanation. you should make more videos.
Very informative!
In New York state that rotor would be considered pristine.
That's indeed correct ✅👍
Thanks for sharing.
I agree with most of the comments but NAPA does carry good stuff.
That happened because one guide pin was seized
In NY state they salt the roads so much in the winter that uncoated rotors look like that after 2 years. Coated ones will last longer - but the rust still creeps in under the edges of the pads. They might make it to 5 to 7 years.
I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
👍Good information 👌🏻
A very informative video. Thanks for producing it.
Has anyone noticed a reduction in braking power after going through a car wash? Even after my brakes are dry, even days, weeks or months later it seems like there is a reduction in stopping power. I’m assuming that it is due to the waxes used getting absorbed into the pads. Anyone have any thoughts or answers? Thanks...
Mine squeal when stopping after the car wash.
How about dropping that rotor on your foot?
It will make for a more interesting video plus you can test your safety shoes.
Cerakote would be a better coating. It’ll make break in a little tougher
Well, I learned something today. Thanks.
I have Sachs coated discs on my car and before that, Zimmermann coated discs. They look good for a while and after a winter looks all rusty. I see no silver color anywhere after 4 years. Just as bad as my non-coated Brembo discs looked like.
you can paint them by yourself and you will have a coated rotor
Good information..👍
great video! rotors look likr my Bosch rotors.
Nice!
Who manufactures the rotors for NAPA?
Just aesthetic benefit. Who's ever had a brake rotor/disc rust out before being worn out. There is rust on the inside of the disc in the vid because the slider pin was seized causing the pad to not fully contact the disc.
I think inside brake pad touches disc first then outside pad touches disc, that`s why most of the time inside pad is little more worn out than outside pad and pins just controlling outside pad. I think there is some worth information in this video.
@@wilkas159 Usually the smaller inboard pad means sliders not fully functioning and the unequal pressure on the pad is a sticking caliper piston. usually also caused by rust around the seal/seal failure.
I've just experienced this... rear rotors so rusted out they had to be replaced. Not because of wear, but because of rust, and at less than 100K miles.
@@Obliticus Your discs lasted 100k?
Is it true that you want coated for open-wheel designs, and regular uncoated will probably suffice for traditional wheels that are covered by hub caps?
You would want coated for both.
Music sound track nothing but an annoying distraction when trying to listen and learn. When will people stop this society of continuous useless noise?
So, does this mean that when painting a rotor, it’s ok to paint the part where the brake pad touches the rotor surface?
It's not smart to do but it will wear off with friction obviously. But again, not smart because it will inhibit braking force and create a lot of excess dust.
I put sets of four on two different cars and almost a year later, I confirmed the polymer has come off on sections of the hub appearing burned off. Can't confirm how the rotor veins look but I would seek another coating option. Great in theory but this "polymer" does not seem to hold up well not sure if it is worth the expence.
I got zinc coated ones and they've been on for 3 years now and still look new.
Then again you'd have to get REALLY hot for zinc to be affected
yep, polymer plastic on brakes... LOL
You got it backwards, Zinc burns of after a short time the Polymer stays longer.
does anyone know what metals BREMSEN coated brake rotors are made of? i cant find this info anywhere not even on their box! my mechanic assures me they are cast iron but BREMSEN's site says the rotors take up to 400c (750F)....
Best break kit for 2003 Range Rover mid to top of the line.
Also looking for best axles.
OEM
I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
Should i clean the rotors with brake cleaner before installation, will brake cleaner take away the protective coating ??
There is no need to use brake cleaner on our coated rotors prior to installation. They are ready to be installed right out of the box.
I installed coated rotors like this on my Toyota.There is a faint grinding noise when you apply the brakes.Could it be the coating wearing out?Are they suppose to do this.I usually buy non-coated rotors and they are usually much more quieter.
Did you change your guide pins/bushings or at least clean them up and lube them as well as living the contact points of the hardware to brakes? Also you will need to bed them (breaking in). If you skip this process noticed will develop and your brakes won't be as effective.
For toyota brakes you can try geobrakes.com they sell all oem brakes
purchased these rotors and replace stock rotors after 6yrs @100k miles from my 2014 chevy silverado. so far no issues !!!
100k miles before your first brake job? you must drive like you are Driving Miss Daisy 🤣
@@lh98 1st time for rotors not brakes
@@lh98 I'm still laughing!
The coating comes in zinc, or black. I prefer the black coating since you have a fairly immediate and consistent way of determining where the coating wears off. Ideally the coating should wear off on the pad contact surface and rest of rotor should stay black. The coating is usually the same just sometimes manufacturers use different color dyes to get the effect. My slotted rotors are about two months old and still have the black except for the pad contact surface.
It's NOT Zinc, it's polymer coated, Silver coating is Polymer and black is a high temp paint, Silver Polymer is going to be better to prevent rust. It has nothing to do with "different color dyes".
@@nexushexus4365 what he said ^
Why polymer coating? Why not galvanized? Paint flakes off, especially under heat and vibration. Electroless or electroplated zinc would be much more tenacious, and prevent rust from sneaking under the edge of the coating.
how long do they remain rust free? I dont think that zinc is very durable because I saw another vid where the guy took off the wheel and the coating came off with ease....Can anyone recommend a industrial coating that could be used to coat rotors?
their's brake caliper paint, but you'd have to use and old set of pads (they will get ruined) to take it off where the pads will hit.
If you don't get brake cleaner on it the zinc will be fine. Did that person use something other than water/maybe soap if he got oil on them?
almost 3 years
I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
Wait now I'm a bit confused. Is that a zinc plated rotors or a painted rotor? That looks like paint, zinc should be shiny right?
these are carbon coated
I not sure about brands much I have got a good experience for brakes with Geobrakes.com
Price and quality both are good
I question because of the coating present where the brake pads compress onto the rotor, if the initial bedding-in process of the brake pads is affected in any way by that coating between the rotor and pad?
I'm aware that the coating in this area of the rotor will eventually be removed with time but is the braking efficiency effectiveness the same as bedding-in brake pads with non-coated or partialy coated rotors (only hat/veins)? If the braking efficiency is less in comparison than I rather not purchase fully coated rotors.
Would that old rotor fail motor vehicle inspection because of the reduced contact surface?
If i was inspecting it I would advise the customer about the issue but it's not significant enough to fail over. Technically, so long as rotor hasn't reached the Min thickness it would still pass.
@@SerenoOunce nice. I suspect a lot of pretty good rotors head for the steel bin but that being said I did the front rotors and pads on the wifes corolla for $97 delivered to the door 30000 kms ago and just recently had the wheels off and the inside is just now starting to get a lip on it... So for the Price it's pretty cheap... That being said just pad slapped my tundra they had lots of thickness and are still smooth as butter...so I dunno. Some shops probably recommend rotors every time the pads are worn... I think you could get a couple sets of pads to a rotor
Question: Why did NAPA stop putting threaded push-holes in their rotors for Subarus? I'm dreading the removal process the next time I have to change rotors... :-(
just tap a couple of them so you can thread into it.
That's why you have to use anti-seize on the hub before you put the new rotor in. Makes all the difference in the world.
@@shippo72 I live in upstate NY. I've used a lot of anti-sieze and/or Silglyde on the hub, but it still requires me to remove (or bend) the dust shields in order to get a 3-jaw puller on the rotor. (The salt here is so nasty... Sometimes even lubed up brake pad ears will seize into the caliper brackets!) Where I live, applying anti-seize makes absolutely no difference and we NEED the threaded holes here.
Before with the threaded holes, I'd get the rotors off within two minutes with the two bolts I keep with my brake tools, regardless of application of lubricant. (Having lubricant will maybe make for a quieter removal... no lubricant means the rust will break with a BANG!)
@@lh98 But the thing is that they used to do it a few years back! Why can't they still do it now?
My threaded holes were totally corroded and stripped on my camry and the rotor was siezed to the hub.
Used otc puller 6980. Worked pretty well.
Why is there shiny on the back of the rusted one where the lugs are? Looks like something was grinding on it
Did you not listen to the fucking video or what
@@Jesuschristitsjasonbourne3 You don't even know what I'm talking about dumbass. Stop being a little bitch and GTFO
Dose the coating gumb up the brake pads ?
This video could have been about half as long. He repeats himself a number of times.
Play at 2x speed
If I buy coated rotors do I need to hit ‘em with brake cleaner?
No
Coated rotors will stay rust free for a little longer but not alot, eventually they will rust like the rest in N.Eastern US
I got my car brakes changed to new ones with new rotors and calipers, with a coated rotor. As I drove away i hard a screeching noise, the mechanic said that the rotor coating is sticking to the pads and causing this, is this normal? will the noise go away as I drive more or is this a mechanic issue that should not have occurred initially?
It is not normal if you replace both rotors and pads. Never replace only the rotors if the previous rotors have a weird pattern. Screeching noise is often caused by non-OEM back shims and not properly lubed the back of the shims in contact with the pads. Just drive it for few more days and if it does not go away, ask your mechanics to properly lube the back of the pads and the contact points with the shims.
@@rondhole Thank you this is very helpful. The shop doesn't appear to want to correct their mistake - not sure if i can do anything...
@@insideyourshelter Do you also replace the pads? If you have proper tools (Jack, Jackstand, and some wrenches), you can just remove the brake pads and clean it. Lube with the silicon grease the backing plate and the shims. Screeching noise is usually metal-metal contact, and squealing noise is usually caused by vibration from the pads and shims. If you go to Franchise mechanics, you can always call the manager and asked for a warranty claim. Or call their national customer service. I had a similar bad experience before with the SEARS service center. They do not flush the brake fluid although I paid for it. I can see it directly from how the reservoir was not touched and all the bolts on the bleeding screw are still full of dust. I called the 1800 number and they refund all my money. I never go to that shop again because it could be personal and they may sabotage your cars such as tearing rubber boots or something that is not easy to detect. Just be polite and firm, and patient, and they may give you a warranty without any fight. If they deny yours, you should start looking for a better shop for a second opinion and check their jobs.
@@rondhole for sure, thank for you the advise this is helpful. I did pay for the full job and it's a European car but a family mechanic shop. Not a large franchise.
@@insideyourshelter may be you can try it by yourself. Most brakes are very easy. The hardest part is removing the wheel.
That is NOT typical of an uncoated rotor to look like that on the back side from what I've seen and I've probably changed >20 rotors on my cars over the last 15 years. May help a little bit but don't be fooled by this video!!!!!!
This is pretty normal in rust belt areas. But other locations wont see much from coated unless they want them to look shiny longer. Also, cars with splash/dust guards on their brakes may not see this wear pattern. My subaru for instance, does not show this, but my wifes car, a saturn, does. One has a splash/dust guard, the other does not.
Seems like a goofy video. Coated rotors are great but the back pad coverage/swept area had nothing to do with coatings. Wrong size pad or some problem with the caliper piston.
@@glennshimamoto9922 Guide pin was seized. Caliper was not floating freely. This was the issue. Nothing to do with rust "creep".
WTF? You have changed more than 20 rotors on your car in the last 15 years? That's 2+ sets of rotors. You a nascar mechanic, burning them up racing? I do all my own work and have only replaced 6 sets on 3 cars/trucks over 25 years and most of that was because I lived in DC (80mph to dead stop and back on it etc.) for a spell and 2 times had caliper malfunctions.
@@Neotype33 CarS
So your comparing an old wore out rotor to a new one......I’m convinced
Apparently they haven't been out long enough for an equivalent long term comparison test. Just theory at this point that there will be an improvement in longevity with no sacrifice in performance.
Freedom 1 the idea behind this works
@@dtrrtd774
Except they've been around for decades, just zinc coated instead of whatever this polymer thing is. It doesn't really matter what it is either, as long as it can take the heat and stop the rust.
So you made a mistake and bought a bare steel trailer or something (yeah I know that's absurd, but hey that's what we do with brake rotors ¯\_(ツ)_/¯), and it rusted to pieces.
Then you go to the trailer store and complain that their galvanized trailers aren't rusty so you can't tell if it will rust or not.
Do you realize how dumb that sounds?
@@dtrrtd774 Coated rotors have been around far longer than it takes to wear out a set of rotors.
Informative video, but too repetitive. I understood why lack of airflow to the rear of the disc caused the corrosion the first time it was mentioned.
Except it is not true so your understanding is fatally flawed. The video seems to take the old adage that if you repeat a lie often enough, you will be believed.
Yeah it was the seized rusted pin. Why did he run with a corrosion lie when the pins were not moving freely. Just take them off lube it up with rotor anti seize grease. Boom problem fixed. Swept corrosion sham only works on ladies in shops not people on internet. Lol
Brunch bubble bath had plans
I dont think napa sells ultra premium rotors anymore all i see is some rotor they sell call ultra 8
hi there. are all ultra premium rotors coated?
In Early of 2017 we launched the Fully Coated line. Prior to
2017 the Ultra Premium line was split between a Black Hat Rotor and a Fully
Coated Rotor.
Today, all manufacturers of OEM replacement rotors offer coated versions. They shouldn't be considered ultrapremium but more economical, because compared to more frequently replacing shorter-lived uncoated rotors. The one time added $10-15 for a coated rotor, more than pays for itself in brake component longevity and saved labor.
P Schmied :
not necessary
I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
Apples to apples. Let's see a 4 year old coated used rotor.
Too bad the Ultra Premium rotors are not available for a 1988 Mercury Grand Marquis so I had to use the Premium rotors instead.
The coating could act as an insulator to the rotor raising the temperature causing warping.
I think your brain is warped.
Ive used these Napa rotors before and they never seem to last very long before warping. Rotors where the non-contact parts are painted are probably okay but I don't believe there should be any coating on the braking surface.
i dont think so by the way Honestly I am not a very tech savvy however I always buy brakes from geobrakes.com
And they sell on really cheap price but thr quality is good
So there is no need to spray break cleaner on the ultra premium polymer rotors?
Correct. The Ultra Premium Coated Rotors do not need to be cleaned with brake cleaner.
You mean brake???
I wonder if brake cleaner removes the coating. I cleaned my coated rotors before installing them and now I'm wondering if I shouldn't have.
@@randallturner8048
On the zinc coated ones it'll make it look ugly and splotchy (but you can only really tell on the black zinc ones) but it will still stop rust. If it doesn't get all splotchy and ugly within a minute, then it didn't do anything. (And I'd imagine these "polymer" coated ones are more resistant to chemicals)
@@nickopedia5669 Thanks, I noticed that that there didn't appear to be any oil on them out of box. I sprayed them anyway. Now, I know there is no need for brake cleaner on this type. I looked today, and I did notice a little bit of sploch, but mine are silver so it's not noticeable.
My dust shield rusted off, so airflow is not the issue. This is untruthatory
Shut that dam music noise off so i can listen to the person talking in the shop
Only one reason that inside pad wore like that and created so much rust. A shitty job done by installer. Unless of course it's the vehicles first brake job. When you install brakes, remove the slides, clean and lubricate them. And lube all contact points of pads in bracket. Make sure new pads slide in freely. I've had to grind down a handful of napa pads that had so much paint on them you'd need a hammer to install them. Nice idea with the coating but it's to thin and won't last. Hell , you can wipe it off with brake clean.
so it just a brake disc with a polymer paint ? be cheaper to do it yourself with a spray of polymer paint with the colour of your choice.. red or yellow etc to match your callipers if they are painted.
Painting a rotor yourself can cause thickness variations leading to more problems. Our
Ultra Premium Coated Rotors have a polymer coating that is robotically applied
ensuring even distribution so that minimal lateral runout tolerances are met;
today’s tolerances are tighter than ever before. With today’s aggressive
metallic brake pads and ceramic materials that actually transfer onto the rotor
surface, you should not have pad to rotor contact unless you are applying the
brake pedal. If the rotor has too much “wobble” or lateral runout when
installed, constant pad to rotor contact will occur even when you are not
braking. That constant contact causes thickness variation issues and results in
the brake pedal pulsating when braking. Checking rotor runout must be part of
every brake job.
@@NAPABRKVideos That's nonsense. If the rotor itself has runout it will be there with or without the coating. Once you install it and apply the brakes, the coating is scrubbed off the friction surface and it did not matter if it was evenly applied or not.
No you don't need to check rotor runout if you buy quality rotors guaranteed to within the specs you're aiming for. If you mean checking runout on old rotors there is still no need becaue if excessive it will be evidenced by the pulsating, and you will see the glaze and deposits embedded in the rotor surface. There is then no question of measurement, rotor must be replaced.
But how would Napa make money off of that?
@@stinkycheese804 Or you can check the runout on your brand new rotors so that you can return them if they are out of spec instead of wasting money and dealing with pulsing brakes
Napa parts use to be good Parts made in USA But Now every part i have seen from NAPA is CHINA Made the same coated rotors at autozone , Advance are probably made by the same CHINA MFG .
You look at every box of brake parts you buy all say "Made in China", makes you feel real secure when you're stopping two tons of rolling steel.
Why you think made in the USA is better? Look at all bad cars they make in the USA! America makes shitty products that's why others make them for US!
Repeated himself like four times
So much marketing wank...
Zero difference, only difference on wallet
Maybe even rot faster in the salt belt.
Rust because of lack of air flow. LOL!
Fark off! What a load of hooey!
Yeah I want some of that crack he's smoking.
Lack of Airflow + Moisture = Rust over time. Not sure what is so odd about that. The pad area shouldn't be impacted by this; however, unless something impacts the caliper so that the pad isn't making proper contact with the rotor. (e.g. even if rust forms on contact area, when the brakes are engaged, that rust should get burned right off)
I can't speak if the rust in the non-contact area will really cause issues or not; however, I would think this is more appearance than performance.
BS!!!!!
E-Coating is a waste of $$$. Just a upcharge to the mechanic. Less money in the pocket.
Loose the whack-a-doodle background music
Meh.
that is complete rubbish. New rotors are painted so they don't rust wile sitting in a warehouse. Before they were oiled but nowdays they prefer painting them.
No paint will stay on any rotor and this new ones will soon looks like the old ones mainly because temperature but also from the winter salt, rain, brake dust etc. All new cars have painted rotors and even those old rotors were once painted.
Uneven brake pattern is due to the hard braking and to high temperature but your are correct that back side get less air thus inner pads gets hotter and when the temperature is above the design pads stars to bleed material to the rotor.
you're so right!
Only this "brake specialist" is ignorant...
I guess he has not heard about false advertisement class action suits.
I bet he used to sell ATF snake oil. ..
OMg, that ridiculous music in the background!
That is absolutely BS, Sir !!
You are looking at a disc where the caliper has been faulty for a long time, causing an abnormal wear pattern. The pad pressure is slightly lower at the disc lip than it is at the center.
The coating is an extremely thin layer, which is being worn off on the first drive after fitting. Then the friction surfaces are exposed to oxygen, and start to corrode. On a correctly functioning brake system the surface corrosion will be polished away by the pads. But on this example, as half of the inner pad is not touching the disc, the corrosion will cause the disc to become severely pitted. It would have been same outcome on a coated disc.
What a load of crap. The wear difference came from the caliper not the rotor. With modern brake material, rotors are discarded with the pads. Unless you live in a high rust area the ''coating'' makes no difference. If the rotor is machined properly the and you don't live in the rust belt the coating gets you nothing.
I bought high quality zinc rotors. After 4 thousands the top of the rotor is rusted. So don't get fooled. You better buy not coated and spraying them with high heat resist paint. Cheaper and replicable.
Lmfao This video is cringe af
To tell you the truth, 'we" aren't talking about anything without my presence, your just dictating.
You mean "you're" instead of "your."
HAHAHAHAHAHAHHA