This is a great video, taught my 16yr old daughter how to change the brakes on this vehicle. Very clear, good directions, camera angle. Description of the lubricants would have been helpful. Good job.
My son has a CRV and I couldn't get those stupid screws of the rotor. I never knew the hand held impact screwdriver existed. Tomorrow at 8am I am at Harbor Freight for 8.99, this will do the trick. Thank you for shedding the light on something so simple, after 40 years, I could use a new tool.
hehe, you can use a regular screw driver too, but it won't turn like the impact driver and breaks easily. Also you can hammer away with the impact driver too :D
We are done, here is a recap. The impact screwdriver did the trick on all 4 Phillips head screws, BUT the low quality driver head lost its shape as we twisted, got er done. Glad I saw your idea of the two 8mm bolts to screw into the face of the rotor, we had to do that too! I was once a metals inspector and as I tightened the bolt heads I saw a hairline crack start, well we were in it now. More tightening and more cracking of the rotor. Used Parts Blaster and waited 10 minutes, then came out Grandpa's 4' sledge hammer, a couple wacks on the back of the rotor and the front and BAM cracked it in half but now off. The new rotor slid on easy as did the pads, in no time on the road. We are going to wait a bit to do the back. Thanks again for posting and sharing your experience.
wow... those rotors must be really old or the rotors are rusted to be broken in half... I guess you gotta do more brake lubing and maintenance more often to prevent rust build up and keep them squeaky clean :). Glad everything worked out for you. I would suggest investing in some better impact screws if it was stripped out of its shape... we got ours from Snap-On, but you can buy them from Craftsman, or MatcoTools. Nice work!
Good video...very informative and explanatory. Better than other videos that don't show how it's done. You communicated with the audience very well. You mentioned the brake fluid...I would say to remove or loosen the resorvoir cap for the brake fluid and use a syringe to remove the excess brake fluid.
Excellent video. He only shows you what you need to know assuming you have some basic auto repair skills. Pay attention to his comments about lubricating the pads. It will keep your brakes quiet.
Some good tips here! For one I didnt know about the bolts you can screw into the rotors to help loosen them. And two, although I know anytime you touch rotors you want them to be clean before installing new pads, I just would not have thought to clean the brand new rotors before putting them on. Thanks man!
Great Video. I have done my pads before many times. Your video shows the novice exactly how easy it really is. I did as you did pushing the caliper back with master cover loose. But someone suggested a hose on the bleeder and draining that caliper fluid which is a great idea. Jus refill the master and complete bleeding. Well done.,
Dude, I followed everything you said here and just finished replacing my front brake pads and rotors on my 2006 Honda Accord. You explained everything perfectly. The video shows everything really well, too. The one thing that made it difficult was one of the screws became stripped on the rotor so I ended up drilling it out. And some of the bolts were really stuck bad. But, thanks again for an excellent instructional video.
dbg567 nice, the screws that was stripped, you can just hand tight it back on when you replace it. It doesn't need to be on too tight, and make sure to put some of that copper anti seize on the stuck bolts so that next time when you remove it, it'll be easier.
Just bought an 07. Feel warped rotors when braking...now I'm going to change them out myself and save the cash...maybe i'll put the money into a cold air intake. Very good quality and concise video. Thanks to you!!!
Madjwills I didn’t need to as the previous place that did my brakes did not reinstall the rotor hold down screw. I have used a hammer impact screw driver before and the work pretty good.
Great video. Heading out to do mine now. Thanks man! *Update: Just got done and it was super easy. I used the old rotors and pads as a lever to push in the piston with a flathead driver successfully. Also, the old pads didn't have shims, but I got the Duralast Max and they have the shims already attached. My cost was around $200 with premium parts, lube, and cleaner.
Ricardo Herrera Jr nice, grats on the job well done. Kinda weird your old pads didn't have shims though, someone could've forgot to put it back in or something.
the bird noises are an added calming bonus to the video. LOL. did you use the shims from the old pads? i didn't see them when you installed the new pads.
Great video. I recommend using anti-seize on the 2 rotor screws to help prevent corrosion and make them easier to come out in the future. I had to use a hammer driver on my rotor retaining screws at 28k miles in order to pull off the slightly warped rotors and get them turned.
HanksDeuce wow... your vehicle is really worned down on the brakes side. Our vehicle didn't have rust, could also be because we are in California away from the salt water and/or ice. Just certain places get rust, but its always good to be safe than sorry. So putting anti seize lube is good. Make sure to throw those warped rotors away.
Hello great video, with the help of your video I was successfully able to do my 2007 Honda Accord Special Edition V6 front brakes and rotors, I now need to do the rear, do you have an instructional video for that, thank you
Wonderful video. Everything about it is top notch. I did Accord pads today and during the test drive, pad seating, the bolts holding the caliper bracket actually came loose and fell out. This did not work out well and really tore up the inside of the wheel. It also damaged the brand new caliper and bracket , the Wagner Thermoquiet ceramic pads, and of course my brand new painted rotor. Needless to say, a very expensive incident, and freaking infuriating. I remember torqueing those bolts down with my long dong Armstrong torque ratchet. This is so strange because less than 2 months ago i did the pads and rotors on my 13 Silverado and, luckily, just one bracket bolt fell out and was letting that caliper clunk and bang when i hit the brakes. I'm not perfect by any means but I'm left scratching my head on this guys. Has anyone else had issues with these bolts? I put lock washers and used lock tite on the Silverado and haven't had any more issues. Im leaning toward loctite on the Honda bolts. Would love to hear any info you all have related to these caliper brackets. Once again, thanks for this excellent video. Keep them coming please
Excellent video and instructions man. I just got done changing out my front pads and rotors thanks to your assistance! Very simple to follow and saved me a lot of money by doing it myself.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! DuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuudE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You ROCK! I can't believe I ever paid to have that done! Was my first real car repair. What a great video. Just did pads and rotors on my 04 Accord Coupe. Took the old iPad and watched as I did it. Cost me under $100. Wow. Thanks.
Good video on how to do a basic brake job. Nice that you're protecting your skin from the harsh chems and residue also.Another tip is when you are pushing the cylinder back into the caliper, open the brake bleeder and run a hose from it to a container. Inside the caliper is the worst environment for brake fluid collecting water (from the cylinder gap) and some nasty stuff from the heat involved. Pushing that stuff BACK into your lines is bad. I usually also take the extra step of replacing all fluid with a cheap harbor freight vacuum bleeder kit that is like less than $35. I can remove and replace all fluid and it really makes a difference in longevity and pedal feel. Cheers to a job well done!
Very good, doubt that many shops would do as complete a job. (lubing the pins, cleaning and lubing the contact/slides of the caliper mounting bracket) If you aren't aware, it is important that the pads can easily move away from the rotors when the brakes are released.
Hey man great video, they are really helpful! Had a quick question about my car. My temperature gauge always reads below halfway, is that normal? Have the same model accord.
Great and awesome video. Btw, When I work on my rear brake pads, I found my caliper piston dust boot was torn. Do you know how to replace it without rebuild caliper?
First off thanks for the video. I have some troubleshooting if you dont mind helping me out. How snug are your front brake pads? When I was doing the install they seemed quite loose, as in barely sitting in the holsters.My guess is its probably the aftermarket ones i bought ( ULTRA 8 Metallics)? Did you go with OE or what brand/type did you go with? I have a horrendous clunking noise that occurs over bumps as well as when i go from forward to reverse and vice versa. looking forward to your advice. all the best
@@MakeItHappen223 you can try using a flat head screw driver by prying and pressing against the brake pads while it’s on, hard to explain. Or you can use a big C clamp while using the brake pads against the piston to push it in
Excellent video man, as others have said great camera work, explanation, and all. This will make my job much easier. Also, appreciate the details in the description of what all u need.
Nice clean job. Wish more mechanics were as neat and cautious as well as smart. There are a couple of things. Careful how you move the brake cylinder. You don't want to kink or stress the hose. It's always good to put a touch of lubricant on your screws or bolts before removing. Everything else was perfect.
Hi and thanks for this video. I have a question. I replaced my drivers side lower ball joint on my 06 Accord EX-L 4cyl and took off the caliper/mounting bracket as one piece to gain access (just slid it off in one piece and didn’t remove the rotors or pads) The two bolts unscrewed fine but after the Lower ball joint was securely in ,I tried to get the two bolts back in on the caliper and they would not secure back in tightly at all (thought I had perhaps stripped em . I tried sanding sanded the holes as well but didn’t help) Then I saw you had to push a piston in on your video. If I simply removed the mounting bracket still attached to the caliper in one piece and just set it on something so it wouldn’t hang and then put it back on was that likely the issue? (The fact that the piston needed to be pushed back before the bolts would line up and tighten securely??) thanks!
I'm going to use this video this weekend to change my rotors and pads on a 2006 Honda Accord. I don't have a torque wrench.. how critical is it to use one? can't I just impact them tight, but I know torque ratings are there for a reason.. what do you think?
Very good HD quality video and easy to follow. btw what cleaning spray did you use on a rotor - WD40 ok? I will buy brake caliper synthetic grease. I have 4 cars so not more paying for brake jobs. Thanks
6:15 "Now Im gonna put ...the panzig" ? I was trying to see where you used the silicone paste and where you used the anti-seize paste. I'm presuming that was the silicone and that you used the anti-seize on the caliper pistons. Do I really need 2 different kinds of grease here?
NutzAboutBolts do you take off the lid to the caliber reservoir or just leave it closed? I'm doing the brake pads on a 03 in the morning. Got every thing just wanted to double check. Thanks man.
Ryan Lopez you don't have to take the lid off, but do make sure the fluids not too full, or else when you compress the caliper piston, it'll over flow the reservoir.
Thanks for the video, great angles and really appreciate all of the information. But I do have one question, on your parts list you have a clear silicone paste. I’ve now watch the video multiple times and I don’t know if I’ve missed where you’re using it. Can you or anyone else clear up if and for what this clear silicone piece is for and if it is truly needed.
The silicone paste is used for the caliper sliding pins, it’s used to prevent the pins from seizing which can cause uneven wear of the brake pads because the caliper piston goes in and out from braking.
Outstanding video. Very well done and well explained. Is that a copper based lubricant you used on the pad? And what type of lubricant was used on the internal pins? Will STL work ok on the pins? Thanks again for posting the video.
I love the camera angle man, most people was using one hand to work and one hand for the camera which causes them to stop recording key moments. The only thing is i wish you wen into greater detail at some points of the video. Example i can tell you used anti seize lube at one point and regular lube on another but some people might not be able to tell.
Great video! One question. what is the tool called that you used to press in the piston at 7:05 mark of the video? Where can I purchase this tool or what is the alternative if I don't have this tool?
hey enjoyed your video. quality is great and very informative. quick question. the 17mm bolts are both stuck in the back. can you recommend any tips to loosen them? tried using breaker bar and its still difficult.
spray DW-40 on them, and use a long breaker bar, if that doesn't work, use an 1/2 impact wrench. It shouldn't be on tight in the first place, it should be only torque to 79 ft. lbs or so.
How do I know to replace the rotors too? Mine kind of look like the first one you took off. Will it cause more wear if I continue using a slightly rusted rotor? A NAPA shop offered to turn them if they are still usable. Sorry, trying to save a little money if I can.
When you step on the brake pedal and they start pulsating, it’s time to service the rotors and pads. Turning them will cost less if you have the thickness to cut them. Compare the cost to turning or replacing and see which one will save you money in the long run. I always recommend changing out the pads if you can as well because it’s been scored and damage by the old rotors. Good luck.
two questions: When compressing the cylinder, do you need to take the top off the reservoir? If so, isn't the fluid going to pour out? Do you recommend using slotted and/or cross drilled rotors?
+Ben's videos you don't have to remove the reservoir cap, but you should remove the cap so you can drain the excessive brake fluids so it'll prevent it from dripping over. Slotted is for performance, if your vehicle is a sports car or has a big brake system, then slotted would be good for stopping. The downsize to slotted is that its expensive, and you can't cut/turn the rotors when its worn down, as oppose to the regular rotors. Same with cross drilled rotors, same situation.
what kind of lube did you use. I'm going to change my breaks and rotors myself in October. Do you think it makes a big difference if I use OEM or don't ?
3 days after I did this a caliper mounting bracket bolt was missing and the caliper was scraping the top of my rotor and banging against the inside of the rim. It was so loud and scary I pulled over and I didn't drive the car until I got a new bolt in there. If you do this job yourself please be careful. I don't know if I forgot to put it on or it wasn't that tight and came off because I was sitting on the floor while tightening it, and I wasn't using good leverage to tighten it.
Thanks guys! I posted a comment on the rear drums video. I'm trying to adjust them but I have to pull the e brake handle all of the way up for them to grab. I've heard about adjusting the nut in the center console. I'll be looking into that soon. Can you guys PLEEEASE do a rear conversion to disc brakes video??? I wish I can afford to buy the parts and send them to you guys to make the video. I hate drum brakes.
Los Lakers converting it to rear disc is even costly... we won’t be able to do it. Sorry... As for adjusting the rear drums. You should only hear 6-7 clicks when you pull the parking brake. You use the stat adjuster to extend or retract the brake shoes.
I have a question; That grease you used to lube the pads at the touch points. It looked gold colored. What is that called on the can? Also I could not tell if that was same grease you used on those long bolts you pulled out that had rubber boots. Was that the same grease or was it a different type? Thank you for the video.
Greenpea the ones on the pads are anti seize, the ones on the bolt was silicone grease, both of them can be found in the description box with links to them.
Roc Nazione you need the 8.25 screws to screw into the 2 holes of the rotors like we showed in the video to get it off, or you can use a hammer and hit between the wheel studs on the rotor to break the rust off... just becareful.
Roc Nazione okay, I think I misread your comment. You can try kicking the wheel or you can use rust penetration on the lug nut area on the studs and see if it'll come off once the fluid soaked into the studs.
Ahh nice easy job. Just went from Vauxhall (Opel) to my first ever Honda. Same model as this but the 2.2CDTi (Acura TSX in the USA I believe) How would you recommend ensuring that the brake fluid doesn't flow into the master cylinder?
@NutzAboutBolts the link you gave to the front rotors for a 4 cyl...the amazon description says 15" diameter. Aren't the stock rotors 11.1 diameter rotor?
One sliding pin has a rubber boot on it. Does it matter if they switch location? I cleaned and lubed both sliding pins and re inserted them without paying attention to which side they were in.
That's what a master tech I know told me. He said he's sure he's sometimes accidentally swapped them and never had an issue. Then he told me it's important to pay attention to those sort of things so that made me worried. Another tech I know said it's important. I called my local Honda dealer and asked the parts guy. He said on the diagram it shows the sliding pin with the grommet goes on top. Thank you guys.
My acura Tsx's passenger side breaks make squeeky noise which eventually goes away after I pump the breaks a bit. Should I change the break pads? and is it recommended to get the rotors skimmed as well when changing the pads? thanks
Matz z yeah sounds like the brake pads or rotors that is causing the noise. If the rotors are cheaper than turning/cutting the rotors then just replace the rotors. Do a complete swap of the pads and rotors if its cheap.
the bolts for the guide pins moves the boot as well as the guide pin when i try to undo them and i cant take off the calliper as a result . is that supposed to happen and what can i do to stop it from doing that?
When I removed the wheel, caliper and bracket I noticed my rotor didn't have the set screws. I would like to add them to the new rotor. Any idea what size and thread?
i notice you didn't mention if you crack open the brake fluid reservoir to relieve pressure when you retract the piston. and i see you didn't put the shim back on the new pads.
NutzAboutBolts no worries! i'm sure it would be fine i pushed fluid back towards the reservoir on my old car with the cap unscrewed. apparently a big no no... lmao
Great video man! Straight to the point and very clear. One question. This should be the same for the rear brakes right? My 2004 Honda Accord has these screw shaped piston/calibers.
That screw type piston, you'll need the cube with pins sticking out tool to screw it back in. It uses a 3/8 ratchet to turn it back in. You can find it at any autostore, they sell it.
I don't have an impact screwdriver, I tried spraying the screw head with WD-40 and heating up the bolt and the rotor with a mini torch to possibly loosen the bolt and the rotor around the screw but no result. You have any suggestions? If not, I know I've got to go get myself an impact driver. I don't want to damage the mounting screw with my cross tip screw driver.
+Rey Villorante you can use a regular screw driver and use a hammer and act like its a impact screw. The only difference is that the screw driver is stationary but it'll eventually turn. Try that.
Thanks for the video, man. I'm about to do this to my 2003 Honda Accord EX today. Also, I didn't know they had a tool to push the caliper back in. Thats way easier than what I had to use to push the back caliper in previously. I bought a tool same day from amazon. SCORE
Good morning, question. What kind of lubricant you use for the pins? I know for the screw and others spot use antizeise but for the guide pins i don’t know whats lubricant is. Thanks.
the breaker bar is from Snap-On... and the impact screw driver is either MatcoTools or Snap-On. They are both very expensive brand... but if I had to choose for quality and less money, I would go with MatcoTools since their tools are nice and cheaper than Snap-On, but better than Craftsman and anything below that, such as Husky, Milwaukee etc. etc.
Great Video! Outstanding! V Good Lighting! Just an idea to make it a little better: on Rotor,: apply a tab of never seize to the 2 small screws & 2 bolt holes ( to preserve threads) to make removal easier next time. Did the 2 old pads have different wear thicknesses? if so, slider Pin lube was exhausted.
Yup, you are correct that we should put anti seize on the 2 bolts. It wasn't rusted so we just hand tighten it, but if it was bad, I would put it. As for the brake pads, it was kinda worn uneven, but we still want to lube the sliding pins regardless if it's even or not, it's good practice :) thanks for the comment!
@6:53 What is the tool you are turning with your hand to push the pad in place ? you didn't list it at the beginning ! OK II HAD TO SEARCH AND FOUND WHAT IT IS : Tool Disc Brake Pad Spreader.
On my other cars I’ve always used a C clamp to compress the piston after I take the breaks off so there is space for the new thicker break pad, is there a reason that you didn’t or don’t do that on this car model ?
I liked this video man. I will be doing my own replacement next weekend. I just have one question, do you ever purge the break lines or not? I don't think you explained that in this video, but I would like to know if you do or not. Also, since I am going to do this for the first time, if I need to purge the break lines, how is that done? This video along with your other videos are very helpful man.. Thanks for them.
+Arturo You bleed the brakes if its dirty, its a good time to do it if you want to since the wheels are off of the car. We have a video of bleeding the brakes in our channel as well if you need to find out how to. good luck!
Definitely the best video I found for this. Camera angle and lighting make SUCH a big difference.
+. K (KLASSY) thank you.
@@NutzAboutBolts No, thank YOU.
This is a great video, taught my 16yr old daughter how to change the brakes on this vehicle. Very clear, good directions, camera angle. Description of the lubricants would have been helpful. Good job.
My son has a CRV and I couldn't get those stupid screws of the rotor. I never knew the hand held impact screwdriver existed. Tomorrow at 8am I am at Harbor Freight for 8.99, this will do the trick. Thank you for shedding the light on something so simple, after 40 years, I could use a new tool.
hehe, you can use a regular screw driver too, but it won't turn like the impact driver and breaks easily. Also you can hammer away with the impact driver too :D
We are done, here is a recap. The impact screwdriver did the trick on all 4 Phillips head screws, BUT the low quality driver head lost its shape as we twisted, got er done. Glad I saw your idea of the two 8mm bolts to screw into the face of the rotor, we had to do that too! I was once a metals inspector and as I tightened the bolt heads I saw a hairline crack start, well we were in it now. More tightening and more cracking of the rotor. Used Parts Blaster and waited 10 minutes, then came out Grandpa's 4' sledge hammer, a couple wacks on the back of the rotor and the front and BAM cracked it in half but now off. The new rotor slid on easy as did the pads, in no time on the road. We are going to wait a bit to do the back. Thanks again for posting and sharing your experience.
wow... those rotors must be really old or the rotors are rusted to be broken in half... I guess you gotta do more brake lubing and maintenance more often to prevent rust build up and keep them squeaky clean :). Glad everything worked out for you. I would suggest investing in some better impact screws if it was stripped out of its shape... we got ours from Snap-On, but you can buy them from Craftsman, or MatcoTools. Nice work!
This is the most comprehensive and no nonsense tutorial on brake pad replacement I've yet to view. Great video. Thank you
thank you
Good video...very informative and explanatory. Better than other videos that don't show how it's done. You communicated with the audience very well. You mentioned the brake fluid...I would say to remove or loosen the resorvoir cap for the brake fluid and use a syringe to remove the excess brake fluid.
+Andrew Addison thx!
I needed a refresher/just to make sure I knew what I was doing so I can help a friend and this video was perfect! Thank you!
nice! glad we could help refresh your memory :)
Excellent video. He only shows you what you need to know assuming you have some basic auto repair skills. Pay attention to his comments about lubricating the pads. It will keep your brakes quiet.
Some good tips here! For one I didnt know about the bolts you can screw into the rotors to help loosen them. And two, although I know anytime you touch rotors you want them to be clean before installing new pads, I just would not have thought to clean the brand new rotors before putting them on. Thanks man!
Great Video. I have done my pads before many times. Your video shows the novice exactly how easy it really is. I did as you did pushing the caliper back with master cover loose. But someone suggested a hose on the bleeder and draining that caliper fluid which is a great idea. Jus refill the master and complete bleeding. Well done.,
I think it's best to always do a brake fluid flush too along with new brakes and rotors
Dude, I followed everything you said here and just finished replacing my front brake pads and rotors on my 2006 Honda Accord. You explained everything perfectly. The video shows everything really well, too. The one thing that made it difficult was one of the screws became stripped on the rotor so I ended up drilling it out. And some of the bolts were really stuck bad. But, thanks again for an excellent instructional video.
dbg567 nice, the screws that was stripped, you can just hand tight it back on when you replace it. It doesn't need to be on too tight, and make sure to put some of that copper anti seize on the stuck bolts so that next time when you remove it, it'll be easier.
Just bought an 07. Feel warped rotors when braking...now I'm going to change them out myself and save the cash...maybe i'll put the money into a cold air intake. Very good quality and concise video. Thanks to you!!!
np!
I followed the video instructions to the T and this was a very smooth brake and rotor replacement. Very clear instructions and great video.
Dan Thiessen did you purchase the impact screwdriver?
Madjwills I didn’t need to as the previous place that did my brakes did not reinstall the rotor hold down screw. I have used a hammer impact screw driver before and the work pretty good.
Great video. Heading out to do mine now. Thanks man!
*Update:
Just got done and it was super easy. I used the old rotors and pads as a lever to push in the piston with a flathead driver successfully. Also, the old pads didn't have shims, but I got the Duralast Max and they have the shims already attached. My cost was around $200 with premium parts, lube, and cleaner.
Ricardo Herrera Jr nice, grats on the job well done. Kinda weird your old pads didn't have shims though, someone could've forgot to put it back in or something.
Holy moly, those rotors and calipers looks so good comparing to my ones. There is so much rust on my ones, can't believe :O
Good and clean job!
Thanks!
Doing this to my Accord today ! Got to keep my daily healthy & safe.
yup, and the Honda Accord is easy to work on.
Completed the job, but not sure why it's still squealing ...
did you anti seize and lubed all the hardware? most squeal problems are by not properly lubing the brake hardware.
Actually skipped that step, might have to go back & try that.
the bird noises are an added calming bonus to the video. LOL.
did you use the shims from the old pads? i didn't see them when you installed the new pads.
+wassupjamesd no, the new brake pads had shims on them already. But if you bought the OEM brake pads from Honda, you'll need the old shims.
Good camera placement, simple explanation, excellent video. Thank you!
Tim Coots np!
I don't think this video can get anymore clearer haha Camera quality is very good and everything is super informative so keep up the good work man! :)
TheDesoulateEntity lol thanks!
Video quality is great. Great instructional video. Audio was a little low at points, but still good. Thanks!
Great video. I recommend using anti-seize on the 2 rotor screws to help prevent corrosion and make them easier to come out in the future. I had to use a hammer driver on my rotor retaining screws at 28k miles in order to pull off the slightly warped rotors and get them turned.
HanksDeuce wow... your vehicle is really worned down on the brakes side. Our vehicle didn't have rust, could also be because we are in California away from the salt water and/or ice. Just certain places get rust, but its always good to be safe than sorry. So putting anti seize lube is good. Make sure to throw those warped rotors away.
Hello great video, with the help of your video I was successfully able to do my 2007 Honda Accord Special Edition V6 front brakes and rotors, I now need to do the rear, do you have an instructional video for that, thank you
one question, do you remember what size bolt you had to push the rotor off if its rusted on?
I also need to know
Wonderful video. Everything about it is top notch. I did Accord pads today and during the test drive, pad seating, the bolts holding the caliper bracket actually came loose and fell out. This did not work out well and really tore up the inside of the wheel. It also damaged the brand new caliper and bracket , the Wagner Thermoquiet ceramic pads, and of course my brand new painted rotor. Needless to say, a very expensive incident, and freaking infuriating. I remember torqueing those bolts down with my long dong Armstrong torque ratchet. This is so strange because less than 2 months ago i did the pads and rotors on my 13 Silverado and, luckily, just one bracket bolt fell out and was letting that caliper clunk and bang when i hit the brakes. I'm not perfect by any means but I'm left scratching my head on this guys. Has anyone else had issues with these bolts? I put lock washers and used lock tite on the Silverado and haven't had any more issues. Im leaning toward loctite on the Honda bolts. Would love to hear any info you all have related to these caliper brackets.
Once again, thanks for this excellent video. Keep them coming please
Great Video, but like others have said, i would recommend drilling out the set screw.
3/8" bit and a drill.
Excellent video and instructions man. I just got done changing out my front pads and rotors thanks to your assistance! Very simple to follow and saved me a lot of money by doing it myself.
dukhunter1972 thanks. GJ!
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! DuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuudE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You ROCK! I can't believe I ever paid to have that done! Was my first real car repair. What a great video. Just did pads and rotors on my 04 Accord Coupe. Took the old iPad and watched as I did it. Cost me under $100. Wow. Thanks.
It's My Midlife Crisis nice work! Glad this video helped you in accomplishing your work, good job! :)
Good video on how to do a basic brake job. Nice that you're protecting your skin from the harsh chems and residue also.Another tip is when you are pushing the cylinder back into the caliper, open the brake bleeder and run a hose from it to a container. Inside the caliper is the worst environment for brake fluid collecting water (from the cylinder gap) and some nasty stuff from the heat involved. Pushing that stuff BACK into your lines is bad. I usually also take the extra step of replacing all fluid with a cheap harbor freight vacuum bleeder kit that is like less than $35. I can remove and replace all fluid and it really makes a difference in longevity and pedal feel. Cheers to a job well done!
that's interesting, will do that next time.
Very good, doubt that many shops would do as complete a job. (lubing the pins, cleaning and lubing the contact/slides of the caliper mounting bracket) If you aren't aware, it is important that the pads can easily move away from the rotors when the brakes are released.
Man you do the best car repair videos!
thank you!
Just saved me some money! Never knew how easy it is!!! thanks for sharing
Jason North np! :D
Hey man great video, they are really helpful! Had a quick question about my car. My temperature gauge always reads below halfway, is that normal? Have the same model accord.
+Abraham Jaimes yeah, it should be a little below the half mark.
Great and awesome video. Btw,
When I work on my rear brake pads, I found my caliper piston dust boot was torn.
Do you know how to replace it without rebuild caliper?
First off thanks for the video. I have some troubleshooting if you dont mind helping me out.
How snug are your front brake pads? When I was doing the install they seemed quite loose, as in barely sitting in the holsters.My guess is its probably the aftermarket ones i bought ( ULTRA 8 Metallics)? Did you go with OE or what brand/type did you go with? I have a horrendous clunking noise that occurs over bumps as well as when i go from forward to reverse and vice versa.
looking forward to your advice.
all the best
Jamey Albo The OEM brake pads are ceramics, I suggest you replace the metallic brake pads with ceramics as they do cause noise when braking.
Great video only question is I thought those pistons supposed to be turned clockwise not compressed, but as I can see it looks like either works
Usually if your rear brake system are calipers, then it’s the one that uses the cube to turn them in, like the 2012 Prius we did.
@@NutzAboutBolts you think I’ll be good with an open end wrench or needle nose pliers? Or even a flat head screw driver?
@@MakeItHappen223 you can try using a flat head screw driver by prying and pressing against the brake pads while it’s on, hard to explain. Or you can use a big C clamp while using the brake pads against the piston to push it in
Excellent video man, as others have said great camera work, explanation, and all. This will make my job much easier. Also, appreciate the details in the description of what all u need.
darink300zx np! thanks for your comment :)
Nice clean job. Wish more mechanics were as neat and cautious as well as smart. There are a couple of things. Careful how you move the brake cylinder. You don't want to kink or stress the hose. It's always good to put a touch of lubricant on your screws or bolts before removing. Everything else was perfect.
Hi and thanks for this video. I have a question. I replaced my drivers side lower ball joint on my 06 Accord EX-L 4cyl and took off the caliper/mounting bracket as one piece to gain access (just slid it off in one piece and didn’t remove the rotors or pads) The two bolts unscrewed fine but after the Lower ball joint was securely in ,I tried to get the two bolts back in on the caliper and they would not secure back in tightly at all (thought I had perhaps stripped em . I tried sanding sanded the holes as well but didn’t help) Then I saw you had to push a piston in on your video. If I simply removed the mounting bracket still attached to the caliper in one piece and just set it on something so it wouldn’t hang and then put it back on was that likely the issue? (The fact that the piston needed to be pushed back before the bolts would line up and tighten securely??) thanks!
Dude you have an amazing channel, good camera work and and good angles and very good explanation. I used your videos so much, Thank you!
Fadi Beno Thank you! :D we strive our best to make the best HD video's out there. Thank you for your kind compliment.
Is it the same thing for the back breaks?
Very informative, just forgot which lubricant or anti seize to apply of which part/bolt ?
Silicone lube on the sliding pins. Anti seize on the brake pad shims and brake hardware.
I'm going to use this video this weekend to change my rotors and pads on a 2006 Honda Accord. I don't have a torque wrench.. how critical is it to use one? can't I just impact them tight, but I know torque ratings are there for a reason.. what do you think?
The 29 ft. lb. bolts you can hand tighten them. For the 79 ft. lb. ones you can use the impact, just don't over torque it.
You mention 3m anti seize & 3m silcone paste under tools, where do you use the anti seize and where do you use the silcone paste? Please answer.
Roc Nazione You put the anti seize in the back of the brake pads shims, as for the silicone paste, you put it on the caliper sliding pins.
Very good HD quality video and easy to follow. btw what cleaning spray did you use on a rotor - WD40 ok? I will buy brake caliper synthetic grease. I have 4 cars so not more paying for brake jobs. Thanks
+James Chuaycham we used brake clean, don't use wd-40
+NutzAboutBolts I found that out too. Thx
James Chuaycham
np :)
6:15 "Now Im gonna put ...the panzig" ? I was trying to see where you used the silicone paste and where you used the anti-seize paste. I'm presuming that was the silicone and that you used the anti-seize on the caliper pistons. Do I really need 2 different kinds of grease here?
Yes, both lube does different things for the brakes.
NutzAboutBolts do you take off the lid to the caliber reservoir or just leave it closed? I'm doing the brake pads on a 03 in the morning. Got every thing just wanted to double check. Thanks man.
Ryan Lopez you don't have to take the lid off, but do make sure the fluids not too full, or else when you compress the caliper piston, it'll over flow the reservoir.
Thanks for the video! What was that spray to clean the oil off the rotors, and what were the two lubes that were used?
its all in the description. Brake cleaner, anti seize and silicone lube.
Thanks for the video, great angles and really appreciate all of the information. But I do have one question, on your parts list you have a clear silicone paste. I’ve now watch the video multiple times and I don’t know if I’ve missed where you’re using it. Can you or anyone else clear up if and for what this clear silicone piece is for and if it is truly needed.
The silicone paste is used for the caliper sliding pins, it’s used to prevent the pins from seizing which can cause uneven wear of the brake pads because the caliper piston goes in and out from braking.
NutzAboutBolts and long as it’s a clear silicone paste should work? They didn’t have the one you listed.
AlMERderYa yes, silicone paste is clear.
Outstanding video. Very well done and well explained. Is that a copper based lubricant you used on the pad? And what type of lubricant was used on the internal pins? Will STL work ok on the pins? Thanks again for posting the video.
+whitemization yes that is copper base used on the brake shims. As for the caliper pins, it's a silicone base lubricant, not too sure what STL is.
I love the camera angle man, most people was using one hand to work and one hand for the camera which causes them to stop recording key moments. The only thing is i wish you wen into greater detail at some points of the video. Example i can tell you used anti seize lube at one point and regular lube on another but some people might not be able to tell.
Do I need to worry about ABS systems? Is torqueing require for the bolts of calipilar? Is it just hand tight the two screws for Rotors?
where do you recommend buying rotors from ?
honda dealership is quiet expensive 80$ for 1 rotor only. any advise please ?
either the dealership or autostore if dealer is too expensive
***** rotors are really expensive at the dealership. I recently just bought new pass and rotor, I will give you the info when I get the chance.
Where could I find all the torque specs for a Honda Accord 2005 4cyl EX?
Great video! One question. what is the tool called that you used to press in the piston at 7:05 mark of the video? Where can I purchase this tool or what is the alternative if I don't have this tool?
Kevin Tran It's called the Caliper piston depressor, you can buy it at any autstore, the alternative tool you can use is a C-clamp.
Great video.I have one question ,what type of lube do you use for the caliper pins ? Thanks
+Mark Bow silicon paste lube.
hey enjoyed your video. quality is great and very informative. quick question. the 17mm bolts are both stuck in the back. can you recommend any tips to loosen them? tried using breaker bar and its still difficult.
spray DW-40 on them, and use a long breaker bar, if that doesn't work, use an 1/2 impact wrench. It shouldn't be on tight in the first place, it should be only torque to 79 ft. lbs or so.
Great video tutorial, do you know what size the brake bleed nipple is?
10mm in the front, 8mm in the rear.
How do I know to replace the rotors too? Mine kind of look like the first one you took off. Will it cause more wear if I continue using a slightly rusted rotor? A NAPA shop offered to turn them if they are still usable. Sorry, trying to save a little money if I can.
When you step on the brake pedal and they start pulsating, it’s time to service the rotors and pads. Turning them will cost less if you have the thickness to cut them. Compare the cost to turning or replacing and see which one will save you money in the long run. I always recommend changing out the pads if you can as well because it’s been scored and damage by the old rotors. Good luck.
two questions:
When compressing the cylinder, do you need to take the top off the reservoir? If so, isn't the fluid going to pour out?
Do you recommend using slotted and/or cross drilled rotors?
+Ben's videos you don't have to remove the reservoir cap, but you should remove the cap so you can drain the excessive brake fluids so it'll prevent it from dripping over. Slotted is for performance, if your vehicle is a sports car or has a big brake system, then slotted would be good for stopping. The downsize to slotted is that its expensive, and you can't cut/turn the rotors when its worn down, as oppose to the regular rotors. Same with cross drilled rotors, same situation.
Looked like the o-ring popped out when you pressed the cylinder in. Is that normal?
what kind of lube did you use. I'm going to change my breaks and rotors myself in October. Do you think it makes a big difference if I use OEM or don't ?
The lube info is in the description box, I would go oem.
I know some mechanics who put brake disc grease on the rotors. is that an outdated step or is it still viable.?
+X-RA3 why would they put brake grease on the rotors? it'll cause the brakes to slip...
Thanks for the great video. Concise and to the point.
Thank you for your time and knowledge to make this video wish you the best of luck.
3 days after I did this a caliper mounting bracket bolt was missing and the caliper was scraping the top of my rotor and banging against the inside of the rim. It was so loud and scary I pulled over and I didn't drive the car until I got a new bolt in there. If you do this job yourself please be careful. I don't know if I forgot to put it on or it wasn't that tight and came off because I was sitting on the floor while tightening it, and I wasn't using good leverage to tighten it.
Los Lakers ouch, yeah, always double check your work when doing brakes. We’re glad you didn’t get into an accident.
Thanks guys! I posted a comment on the rear drums video. I'm trying to adjust them but I have to pull the e brake handle all of the way up for them to grab. I've heard about adjusting the nut in the center console. I'll be looking into that soon. Can you guys PLEEEASE do a rear conversion to disc brakes video??? I wish I can afford to buy the parts and send them to you guys to make the video. I hate drum brakes.
Los Lakers converting it to rear disc is even costly... we won’t be able to do it. Sorry...
As for adjusting the rear drums. You should only hear 6-7 clicks when you pull the parking brake. You use the stat adjuster to extend or retract the brake shoes.
Thanks guys. You always reply to me. Love you guys. Stay safe and take care.
I have a question; That grease you used to lube the pads at the touch points. It looked gold colored. What is that called on the can? Also I could not tell if that was same grease you used on those long bolts you pulled out that had rubber boots. Was that the same grease or was it a different type?
Thank you for the video.
Greenpea the ones on the pads are anti seize, the ones on the bolt was silicone grease, both of them can be found in the description box with links to them.
Perfect thank you so much.@@NutzAboutBolts
Great video, easy to follow, but do you have any advice for me because I cannot get my wheel off it seems to be stuck to the rotor...please help
Roc Nazione try using an impact wrench or a breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts.
No. I think you misunderstood me. I was able to get the lug nuts off, I just couldn't pull the wheel off the rotor...
Roc Nazione you need the 8.25 screws to screw into the 2 holes of the rotors like we showed in the video to get it off, or you can use a hammer and hit between the wheel studs on the rotor to break the rust off... just becareful.
Roc Nazione okay, I think I misread your comment. You can try kicking the wheel or you can use rust penetration on the lug nut area on the studs and see if it'll come off once the fluid soaked into the studs.
Thanks for the advice. I really do appreciate your quick response. I'll try Liquid wrench or WD40
Ahh nice easy job. Just went from Vauxhall (Opel) to my first ever Honda. Same model as this but the 2.2CDTi (Acura TSX in the USA I believe)
How would you recommend ensuring that the brake fluid doesn't flow into the master cylinder?
Open bleed screw before compress piston
When installing, do the pads need to butt up against the rotor or they can be away from it, and if so, how much?
Don’t worry if the pads touch the rotors when installing it because the piston will readjust it when you’re stepping on the brake pedal.
@NutzAboutBolts
the link you gave to the front rotors for a 4 cyl...the amazon description says 15" diameter.
Aren't the stock rotors 11.1 diameter rotor?
you're right, I just changed the links. Sorry about that.
Thank you for posting this, will put it to good use this weekend on the kid's car.
Pete Van Dyke np! thanks for watching and commenting.
great video - do you have to open the master cyclinder cap before you push the cylinder back ? thx
One sliding pin has a rubber boot on it. Does it matter if they switch location? I cleaned and lubed both sliding pins and re inserted them without paying attention to which side they were in.
They’re interchangeable.
That's what a master tech I know told me. He said he's sure he's sometimes accidentally swapped them and never had an issue. Then he told me it's important to pay attention to those sort of things so that made me worried. Another tech I know said it's important. I called my local Honda dealer and asked the parts guy. He said on the diagram it shows the sliding pin with the grommet goes on top. Thank you guys.
My acura Tsx's passenger side breaks make squeeky noise which eventually goes away after I pump the breaks a bit. Should I change the break pads? and is it recommended to get the rotors skimmed as well when changing the pads? thanks
Matz z yeah sounds like the brake pads or rotors that is causing the noise. If the rotors are cheaper than turning/cutting the rotors then just replace the rotors. Do a complete swap of the pads and rotors if its cheap.
Excellent video. Appreciate the details and your time doing such a great instructional video.
mkmlg372 thanks
On the rotor screws, would you lubricator them before installation?
Rich Lo no, you don't need to, unless you want to use anti seize lube.
My brake rotor screws wont come out that easily, and Im afraid I may strip the screw. Can I drill these out if worse comes to worse?
shadyss96 electric impact wrench or impact screw driver from harbor freight.
Thanks for putting the torque specs. Most videos just tells you to do it. You made my job less worries some.
Just sub after seeing the titles of the other videos
MYute87 thanks! :) glad we could make your job a little easier.
Is it require to put back the bolts
Do you think autozone rotors and pads will do the trick for a daily driven 07 accord 2.4L?
Yeah, duralast brand is fine.
the bolts for the guide pins moves the boot as well as the guide pin when i try to undo them and i cant take off the calliper as a result . is that supposed to happen and what can i do to stop it from doing that?
When I removed the wheel, caliper and bracket I noticed my rotor didn't have the set screws. I would like to add them to the new rotor. Any idea what size and thread?
+lsnead1 not sure the size and thread, but you can purchase them at the dealer. You don't need them on there since the bracket is holding it in place.
What do u clean the rotor with, does it matter if I just use some alcohol wipes I have?
Must have acetone in there. I’m sure the alcohol wipes fine. You just want to get rid of the oil that’s coated on the rotors.
i notice you didn't mention if you crack open the brake fluid reservoir to relieve pressure when you retract the piston. and i see you didn't put the shim back on the new pads.
didn't crack open the brake fluid reservoir, new pads already had shims on them.
WELL FINE THEN. lmao!
definitely supposed to crack the reservoir cap or preferably the bleeder screw. life goes on tho.
:D to each their own, haven't had any issues doing it this way, but if we do, we'll let you guys know for sure :)
NutzAboutBolts no worries! i'm sure it would be fine i pushed fluid back towards the reservoir on my old car with the cap unscrewed. apparently a big no no... lmao
Corkoth55gtm
.£9
Great video man! Straight to the point and very clear.
One question. This should be the same for the rear brakes right? My 2004 Honda Accord has these screw shaped piston/calibers.
That screw type piston, you'll need the cube with pins sticking out tool to screw it back in. It uses a 3/8 ratchet to turn it back in. You can find it at any autostore, they sell it.
Oh alright. Thank you for responding!
BattlefrontZero
np!
what about the holding clip? they not supposed to change ?
I don't have an impact screwdriver, I tried spraying the screw head with WD-40 and heating up the bolt and the rotor with a mini torch to possibly loosen the bolt and the rotor around the screw but no result. You have any suggestions? If not, I know I've got to go get myself an impact driver. I don't want to damage the mounting screw with my cross tip screw driver.
+Rey Villorante you can use a regular screw driver and use a hammer and act like its a impact screw. The only difference is that the screw driver is stationary but it'll eventually turn. Try that.
Thanks for the video, man. I'm about to do this to my 2003 Honda Accord EX today. Also, I didn't know they had a tool to push the caliper back in. Thats way easier than what I had to use to push the back caliper in previously. I bought a tool same day from amazon. SCORE
nice, there's another one that's easier than that tool. I think we used it in one of our video but forgot the name of it.
Good morning, question. What kind of lubricant you use for the pins? I know for the screw and others spot use antizeise but for the guide pins i don’t know whats lubricant is. Thanks.
silicone lubricant. All the info is in the description box.
what brand of tools do you have I like that breaker bar and impact screwdriver
the breaker bar is from Snap-On... and the impact screw driver is either MatcoTools or Snap-On. They are both very expensive brand... but if I had to choose for quality and less money, I would go with MatcoTools since their tools are nice and cheaper than Snap-On, but better than Craftsman and anything below that, such as Husky, Milwaukee etc. etc.
+NutzAboutBolts thank you I'll look into it
Anthony Guillen
np
Where can I get the lube, anti seize, and that spray you use to clean the rotor?
ferakachubs You can get it at any auto store, or amazon.
Great Video! Outstanding! V Good Lighting! Just an idea to make it a little better: on Rotor,: apply a tab of never seize to the 2 small screws & 2 bolt holes ( to preserve threads) to make removal easier next time. Did the 2 old pads have different wear thicknesses? if so, slider Pin lube was exhausted.
Yup, you are correct that we should put anti seize on the 2 bolts. It wasn't rusted so we just hand tighten it, but if it was bad, I would put it. As for the brake pads, it was kinda worn uneven, but we still want to lube the sliding pins regardless if it's even or not, it's good practice :) thanks for the comment!
CHRIS L
its in the description, 3M silicone paste
CHRIS L
lol np!
@6:53 What is the tool you are turning with your hand to push the pad in place ? you didn't list it at the beginning ! OK II HAD TO SEARCH AND FOUND WHAT IT IS : Tool Disc Brake Pad Spreader.
goognam goognws it’s the brake pad spreader, the links in the description :)
Do you need to bleed the brakes after?
On my other cars I’ve always used a C clamp to compress the piston after I take the breaks off so there is space for the new thicker break pad, is there a reason that you didn’t or don’t do that on this car model ?
I liked this video man. I will be doing my own replacement next weekend. I just have one question, do you ever purge the break lines or not? I don't think you explained that in this video, but I would like to know if you do or not. Also, since I am going to do this for the first time, if I need to purge the break lines, how is that done? This video along with your other videos are very helpful man.. Thanks for them.
+Arturo You bleed the brakes if its dirty, its a good time to do it if you want to since the wheels are off of the car. We have a video of bleeding the brakes in our channel as well if you need to find out how to. good luck!
+NutzAboutBolts I'll look for that video right now! Thanks!
Arturo
np!
Virtually identical to my 91 Integra. Thanks!
What is the size of the brake discs 296 or 320?
Great video. Right to the job
Thanks!
@NutzAboutBolts Thank you. It was perfect man. I'm getting ready to do brakes on a 2004 accord
@@DunnMotorsnice, the fronts easier than the drums, you’ll need 2 people for the drums return spring, that spring is a PITA.