Be careful out there, I lost a nephew last November. He had lifted his truck up with bottle jacks to rotate the front tires on an incline. With the front tires off, he should have slid them under the frame. He crawled under to check out what was rattling in the engine area...... the rear wheels were not blocked......it rolled back.... the jacks fell over and he was crushed. We will miss him badly..... super nice guy who did a lot for people for no money. Big heart.....gone.
Sorry to hear that but it is a serious story to tell people. 30 years ago I was under my car on a hot day and the jacks sunk into the hot pavement and I barely slipped out in time before the car fell ...
Sorry to hear about your nephew, yeah I tried to jack up a car on an incline never again. It fell off the jack luckily while I was not underneath the car luckily. Always flat surface
Keep in mind that if you should know the center of mass of the car you are lifting and keep that point well within the end-points of the lift. If you are doing heavy torquing of nuts and bolts you will want to keep the center of mass more than 1' inside the end-points of the lift. FWD cars are very nose heavy - in my case it is 66% on the front.
It looks convenient to shift around, and I even think the drill-operated aspect is nice too, since it avoids the hassle of hydraulics. But I wish it could elevate more than 26 inches. Is there anything similar that reaches the same height as a mid-rise lift?
I want to advise folks to be careful when using large rubber blocks for lifting their vehicles up higher than the stock EZCarLift pads - I noticed that my 3" high rubber blocks were starting to move under pressure - they had distorted and were slipping slowly against the 1/2" rubber pads and eventually could have resulted in the car shifting enough to fall off the blocks which would have been nasty. rubber against steel is probably not as bad but rubber against rubber is slippery.
Fantastic unit , isn’t the car lifted too close to the inside of the lift , with the blocks ? Also if had that lift I would get a pickup bed lighting kit and install around the inside the lift so it can light up the under carriage , food for thought 💭..
The Mk1 VW is pretty narrow and I wanted to also use the lift with wider cars. Those blocks in the video were too high/unstable - short 1" blocks worked really well. Supporting the car anywhere on the lift was stable. I like your lighting idea!
I have a very low ceiling in my double garage AND garage door rails to avoid. So no room for a full hight lift....This is ideal for me and I can move the car around on the lift with the wheels kit. You cant do that on a two post lift so easily so I was looking at a scissor lift in the floor. Thank you for showing the real time to lift the car, it is a bit slow but that’s no issue compared to building another garage just to house a full hight lift, as nice as that might be I can’t justify it when the ez is available. Great job, thank you.
Personally i think the lift needs to be around 200mm narrower so the pinch welds are closer to the centre of the planks as over time it is placing more stress on the inside of the lifting mechanism. I assume it is made in china so the hinge points would no be designed to last are they bushed? I think the concept is good and should be quite cheap to manufacture.
I have one of these for my C3 Vette. Works really well. High quality construction. Yes, a bit on the pricey side BUT it's portable. If needed I use hard wood blocks instead of the big rubber blocks but normally just on the hockey pucks. Can recommend.
@Derek; Are those the correct crossbars for your vehicle? I was wondering why the vehicle is so close to the inside edge of the platforms. Would shorter crossbars place the vehicle more towards the middle of the platforms for a safer working area? Just a thought. Thanks.
Derek, you're the man! i dont know what your background is but you sound like a physics teacher and i love it! your mk1 is amazing and its awesome inspiration for my mk1 (84 rabbit aswell). keep the videos up!
+Garcia Graphics You are too kind. I use youtube and the internet a ton to learn new things and apply them to my various projects. I guess I am just giving back ...
Various viewers have pointed out that those tall rubber blocks simply aren't safe - I agree and never used them again after my 1st use - I now simply use the 1/2" tall rubber pads - they are stable and provide enough clearance.
how mutch is the lift. good job I like that your able to move the lift around just in case you need to move it when the vehicles on it. we're can I get one
You need to position those large rubber blocks in the CENTER of the lift, not on the inside edge. In your video you can see the outside edge of the blocks raising up off the lift. Also you need to get the blocks centered on the seam you are using to lift the car.
I totally agree with you. I now lift without the blocks and it is much safer. At the race track they use similar rubber blocks on the Caymans and 911s but I don't really trust them. If they are totally level on both surfaces and centered then I am confident that they will be fine but it is rarely the case that all surfaces will be parallel.
It looks pretty safe to me. It uses jack screws which can't turn by them selves. One thing though: Don't use this on an asphalt driveway, especially in the summer.
Appreciate the video but I’m an old woodland creature and hard of hearing from Ranger yelling in my ears all these years. I could only hear every other word and it sounded like somebody vacuuming in background.
How is the lift holding up after almost two years (has it been used extensively) ??? Very Curious About The Durability & Reliability Of The Lift ??? Has therre been any issues with the lift ??? Thanks for sharing.
I have lifted my car up and down about 500 times so far and nothing is wrong with the unit - my only complaint is that the rubber pads come unglued but that simply allows me to move them to exactly where I want them ... I couldn't live without this lift now that I have it.
@@derekspratt have you heard of these tilt lifts? ruclips.net/video/Sz-g75cCIOI/видео.html They can bring either end of the car pretty high in the air, and even the middle section can be ~24"
@@derekspratt You said you used an old hammer drill to raise the EZCarLift. Is there any danger of the hammer drill damaging the screw on the lift? The guy who made EZCarLift told me that using an impact wrench isn't recommended, because it could damage the screw.
Not for FWD cars but possibly for RWD cars. You can position the lift back a bit further - just take some time to determine the center of gravity for the vehicle and make sure it is inside the lift points. Some people risk removing the front cross-bar once the vehicle is in the air. I don't see a big problem with that if the lift points are flat and there is no force trying to push the EZ-carlift outwards. Some portable lifts don't have any cross-members so this would be similar.
I have one so I'll answer. One of the cross bars is removable but manufacturer probably wouldn't advise against it. Iv'e done so occasionally; I'll leave the bar on when lifting and then remove it once I've set a working height. I put the bar back on when lowering.
It lifts quickly when you use the drill high speed setting - just a bit hard on the drill. I have left cars up on the lift for months on end and rolled them around the garage
Thanks for the feedback - I purchased one myself when they were running the fathers day special. So far so good; I lifted my car and left it lifted for several days just to be sure it would hold lol.
Hi Derek, have you thought of cutting a non slip pattern into the mating surfaces of rubber? Perhaps a knurl pattern could be made with a hand held hacksaw, not too deep mind. I think I would use axle stands for extra safety when underneath. You are putting a lot of trust in one piece of equipment. Your voice isn't that clear when you move away from the camera, maybe a lapel mike? Great review of the system. Colin
Thx. I have stopped using the rubber blocks - I don't need them. The lift design is very secure the way it ramps up and down - almost impossible to fail in such a way that it would collapse on you.
Great video. I am contemplating purchasing. Any updates on the product since purchases? Yes, those rubber blocks were making me nervous. I think even w/o any blocks, I would be tempted to through some jackstands under the car to slow the fall on my head. Your VW is so clean!
I don't know about updates to the design but I am very confident that there is no easy way for the stand to collapse - the system uses a screw-type mechanism - but jack stands would help if the car wasn't well balanced (having the center of mass well within the lift points)
For a pro mechanic where time = money I would agree. For me, I put the car up and down as many as 5 or 6 times a day if I am working on it and the speed is fine. Maybe the only thing is that I have started to lock the drill in the on position so that I don't have to keep squeezing the trigger. That way my hand and fingers don't get as tired.
Nice lift, I think the drill thing would get tedious, there are other easy use portable ramps, they will need mains power to run a hydraulic pump to raise the vehicle. but this could work well where no power source is available, but a rechargeable drill is .☺
I use a 500w 120VAC drill plugged into an inverter with a 20AH 12V battery when I am not able to plug into an outlet. I tried using my battery operated drill and it works but is slower to lift the car and puts a lot of stress on the drill
The blocks were a bad idea - I agree. Mainly because my frame rails aren't level - they slope to the ouside a bit so they tend to push the blocks out - I don't use them anymore. That said, at the local race track the pros use blocks like these all the time when lifting cars. I think they are too slippery and unstable.
I have an ezcarlift so I'll answer. The pros and cons of the two: ezcarlift pros - Easy creeper access from not only the front and back but sides as well Raises with a single power cord - not frustrating at all Simple storage - only two parts - the lift and the drill ezcarlift lifts higher than quick jack - even the BL7000SLX lifts 4.5 inches less than the ezcarlift ezcarlift cons - When assembled unit is large, about 6 feet square, which can be a challenge to store or move around in a smaller space Lifts slowly, even with a good drill The cross bars may be in the way for certain repairs such as exhaust or subframe removal. (Instruction manual probably advises otherwise but one of the two rails can be removed if necessary Must specify lift width when ordering (or buy additional cross bars) - may not be suitable to working with many different vehicle types quick jack pros - Powerful, quick to lift, quick to drop More flexible to store and use in compact spaces Higher max lifting capacity available, up to 7,000 lbs (ez car lift max is 4400lbs - I put a car close to this weight one time and it lifted it but struggled a little) - best to stick to maybe 3800 and under quick jack cons - Takes up a lot of floor space especially between vehicle wheels. Hydraulic, so more complicated to set up - need to move each section in place and connect with hoses to hydraulic Does not lift straight up - the vehicle will move forward (or backward) as it rises - need to take this into consideration when choosing where to put the car when starting. One can leave the lift set up on either side of a regular workspace, but those hoses and cords are going to get dirty and will be in the way when working with a creeper, engine crane, etc. Given these pros and cons, I chose the ezcarlift. It is not perfect but I have the room and its pros more than outweigh it cons. Choose the one that is right for you.
I must tell you that this lift is not going to fall over - and jack stands are in no way compared in terms of safety and stability. Jack stands are scary.
@@derekspratt a bit better yes but this one limits access front to back, seems a small inconvenience compared to its greater simplicity in use. Each to their own.
+George Armerding It makes my life in and around my cars much safer and enjoyable, that's for sure. Nothing else quite like it on the market so I am happy to have found it. I have had other systems in the past but in this case where I need access front/back and sides this is the cats-ass for sure and worth the $.
It's a really smart design, looks strong. I just wish my driveway wasn't on a 3 degree incline or I could use it right there. Lol. Thanks for doing everybody's research homework.
Quickjack has its uses but it’s not portable when the car is lifted, so no good for me. Plus quickjack has cables running over the floor to trip you up and twist ankles in. It’s quick though, buy the looks. Lol
The EZ car lift is very stable and safe - much safer than traditional jack stands. But I used tall rubber blocks in this video which is a BIG NO NO as they can shift. The correct rubber blocks to use are short and wide ...
The rubber blocks were a dumb idea but simple thin rubber pads or even hockey pucks work well - we used basically the same type of lift at a professional race track I had a membership at - everyone used those lifts with the hockey pucks - even on $1M cars
Depends on whether you need access from the sides, and where you need to be able to transport it to different locations, etc. This is a perfect design for a small garage ...
I trust the screw-mechanism but murphy's law does suggest that anything that can fail ultimately will fail - but then again I built my GTI from scratch, designing my own braking system, steering system, electrical system and many other critical components and I race it at 120mph on a tight road course, plus I drive it hours and hours on the street and on the highway - and there are a lot of things that could fail.
I needed a lift I could slide under the side or drive over, and once up in the air I could roll under from front, back or sides. Plus it had to be portable. And this is literally the only unit I know of that can provide that ...
In my world I cannot use a fixed in place system and also needed access from the front, rear or sides of the vehicle, plus portability. No other options are available on the market that meet my needs.
I get it, but I was speaking in abroad term where this product competes with a half dozen other quality products out there. From a cost perspective, if this was sub $1000 I'd have bought it, but it simply is too much money for what it is. There are small form factor hydraulic scissor jacks that are cheaper than this and forgo the long up/down times. Just look around on RUclips, there's are many flavors. But they're all less than $2000 and they're motorized.Every solution is a compromise and there's pros and cons to all, but in my opinion it's simply an overpriced product for what it is. The way I see it, I can lift my car now in about 20 minutes with four quality jack stands and my jack. To move away from that, I'd need something that was faster and inexpensive enough to incentivize me.
Number 9 But none of those products are suitable to low ceilings and movability. For me, while the unit is far from cheap, it will save me building a new garage to house a lift, I won’t need to buy a scissor lift so the posts aren’t in the way to move the car side ways, and I won’t need to buy 4 dollies to move the car around.
I'm actually a little concerned for you Derek. That car jacked up with only an inch or two of rubber holding it in place looks bloody dangerous. I wouldn't get under it if my life depended on it (which is a paradox, because my life would be in the products hands if I did go under it). Please bud, find another lift or at the very least a better way of using the lift.
I am a retired Honda mechanic. When I got a new lift 5 yrs ago, I never had any problem using rubber blocks on any Honda models, including the heavy ones like the Pilot, and Odysseys. It came packaged from the mfgr. , but, then again that was not a portable lift.
As I said, if you don't need side access other jack systems may be less costly and work well. I have used QuickJacks at the track and they are fine. For my garage the EZCarLift works best though.
That is a beautiful GTI, I’m 53 and own a 2020 but this year would definitely be a great project car
Be careful out there, I lost a nephew last November. He had lifted his truck up with bottle jacks to rotate the front tires on an incline. With the front tires off, he should have slid them under the frame. He crawled under to check out what was rattling in the engine area...... the rear wheels were not blocked......it rolled back.... the jacks fell over and he was crushed. We will miss him badly..... super nice guy who did a lot for people for no money. Big heart.....gone.
RIP
Sorry to hear that but it is a serious story to tell people. 30 years ago I was under my car on a hot day and the jacks sunk into the hot pavement and I barely slipped out in time before the car fell ...
Sorry to hear about your nephew, yeah I tried to jack up a car on an incline never again. It fell off the jack luckily while I was not underneath the car luckily. Always flat surface
Keep in mind that if you should know the center of mass of the car you are lifting and keep that point well within the end-points of the lift. If you are doing heavy torquing of nuts and bolts you will want to keep the center of mass more than 1' inside the end-points of the lift. FWD cars are very nose heavy - in my case it is 66% on the front.
Ни хуя не понял но интересно
Love the concept of being able to lift your car up in your own garage.
It looks convenient to shift around, and I even think the drill-operated aspect is nice too, since it avoids the hassle of hydraulics. But I wish it could elevate more than 26 inches. Is there anything similar that reaches the same height as a mid-rise lift?
I want to advise folks to be careful when using large rubber blocks for lifting their vehicles up higher than the stock EZCarLift pads - I noticed that my 3" high rubber blocks were starting to move under pressure - they had distorted and were slipping slowly against the 1/2" rubber pads and eventually could have resulted in the car shifting enough to fall off the blocks which would have been nasty. rubber against steel is probably not as bad but rubber against rubber is slippery.
Derek Spratt
Great video! I was interested in buying one and wanted to know how has it held up over the years? Any issues that you have encountered?
Fantastic unit , isn’t the car lifted too close to the inside of the lift , with the blocks ? Also if had that lift I would get a pickup bed lighting kit and install around the inside the lift so it can light up the under carriage , food for thought 💭..
The Mk1 VW is pretty narrow and I wanted to also use the lift with wider cars. Those blocks in the video were too high/unstable - short 1" blocks worked really well. Supporting the car anywhere on the lift was stable. I like your lighting idea!
Try the lighting idea and make a video ..👍
Thanks for the very clear and detailed explanation. I really appreciate you taking the time to put this video together.
I have a very low ceiling in my double garage AND garage door rails to avoid. So no room for a full hight lift....This is ideal for me and I can move the car around on the lift with the wheels kit. You cant do that on a two post lift so easily so I was looking at a scissor lift in the floor. Thank you for showing the real time to lift the car, it is a bit slow but that’s no issue compared to building another garage just to house a full hight lift, as nice as that might be I can’t justify it when the ez is available. Great job, thank you.
Where did you get this Jack....?
Does that tool to raise and lower it come with it?
Personally i think the lift needs to be around 200mm narrower so the pinch welds are closer to the centre of the planks as over time it is placing more stress on the inside of the lifting mechanism. I assume it is made in china so the hinge points would no be designed to last are they bushed? I think the concept is good and should be quite cheap to manufacture.
Looks good, but $1,699???
How about a link to the website for this product?
I have one of these for my C3 Vette. Works really well. High quality construction. Yes, a bit on the pricey side BUT it's portable. If needed I use hard wood blocks instead of the big rubber blocks but normally just on the hockey pucks. Can recommend.
@Derek; Are those the correct crossbars for your vehicle? I was wondering why the vehicle is so close to the inside edge of the platforms. Would shorter crossbars place the vehicle more towards the middle of the platforms for a safer working area? Just a thought. Thanks.
Yes, shorter cross bars would be a bit better but I wanted to use the lift with other cars too that are wider
Muy bien, excelente sistema de levante. Felicitaciones Derek.
Jack and pack is the golden rule.
Dove lo posso comprare?
Derek, you're the man! i dont know what your background is but you sound like a physics teacher and i love it! your mk1 is amazing and its awesome inspiration for my mk1 (84 rabbit aswell). keep the videos up!
+Garcia Graphics You are too kind. I use youtube and the internet a ton to learn new things and apply them to my various projects. I guess I am just giving back ...
Have you thought of notching off the rubber blocks so the pinch welds guide into the grooves rather than risking damaging the pinch welds?
+jeffoo94 In my case I welding in subframes so I don't have that issue any longer but that certainly makes sense for stock bodied vw mk1s
A great idea for a garage! And Golf 2 all cool! I have the same only black.
Various viewers have pointed out that those tall rubber blocks simply aren't safe - I agree and never used them again after my 1st use - I now simply use the 1/2" tall rubber pads - they are stable and provide enough clearance.
That MK1 is ridiculously clean
thank you
Wo bekomme ich die?
how mutch is the lift. good job I like that your able to move the lift around just in case you need to move it when the vehicles on it. we're can I get one
Check out their website. Around $1900 with a few options ...
hello, i want tu buying this carlift. How can I do? thank you 😊
They are sold directly from the manufacturer on their website
Great demonstration
Awesome no link where to buy it thanks
www.ezcarlift.com/
You need to position those large rubber blocks in the CENTER of the lift, not on the inside edge. In your video you can see the outside edge of the blocks raising up off the lift. Also you need to get the blocks centered on the seam you are using to lift the car.
I totally agree with you. I now lift without the blocks and it is much safer. At the race track they use similar rubber blocks on the Caymans and 911s but I don't really trust them. If they are totally level on both surfaces and centered then I am confident that they will be fine but it is rarely the case that all surfaces will be parallel.
yes- this gave me some anxiety. was hoping my eyes were deceiving me
It looks pretty safe to me. It uses jack screws which can't turn by them selves. One thing though: Don't use this on an asphalt driveway, especially in the summer.
Hi Dereck, thanks for cool video, could you please send me some picture of gearbox and shaft (stroke) connections !?
I don't have the lift any more as I am now out of the car restoration game. The gearbox is really beefy and solid. Everything is well built.
@@derekspratt thanks, good luck 🤝
That's great! But,are restoring a yugo?
Possibly!
Appreciate the video but I’m an old woodland creature and hard of hearing from Ranger yelling in my ears all these years. I could only hear every other word and it sounded like somebody vacuuming in background.
bonjour,il y a t-il un revendeur en France.
Merci
The blocks werent centered on the lift pad,
Agreed - bad form. I have repented and no longer use them.
Buy the magnetized hockey pucks from the manufacturer ,safe to use instead of rubber blocks !
How do the magnets attach to the aluminum plates?
How is the lift holding up after almost two years (has it been used extensively) ???
Very Curious About The Durability & Reliability Of The Lift ???
Has therre been any issues with the lift ???
Thanks for sharing.
I have lifted my car up and down about 500 times so far and nothing is wrong with the unit - my only complaint is that the rubber pads come unglued but that simply allows me to move them to exactly where I want them ... I couldn't live without this lift now that I have it.
Thanks for sharing your experience so far.
Awesome video! Love the MK1 Golf! Looks fully restored. I also noticed the track tires, what size are they?
Track tires are Hoosier 205/50-15s
@@derekspratt
That's impossible because those VW wheels are 14x6. So it's either a 185/60R14 or a 205/55R14.
Fantastic invention
How high can it lift? What's the maximum height?
Over 24" - check the web site for full info - lots for my needs
@@derekspratt have you heard of these tilt lifts? ruclips.net/video/Sz-g75cCIOI/видео.html
They can bring either end of the car pretty high in the air, and even the middle section can be ~24"
@@derekspratt You said you used an old hammer drill to raise the EZCarLift. Is there any danger of the hammer drill damaging the screw on the lift? The guy who made EZCarLift told me that using an impact wrench isn't recommended, because it could damage the screw.
Would the crossbar on the lift affect transmission repairs?
Not for FWD cars but possibly for RWD cars. You can position the lift back a bit further - just take some time to determine the center of gravity for the vehicle and make sure it is inside the lift points. Some people risk removing the front cross-bar once the vehicle is in the air. I don't see a big problem with that if the lift points are flat and there is no force trying to push the EZ-carlift outwards. Some portable lifts don't have any cross-members so this would be similar.
With those crossbars, I am reminded of the Final Destination movie series.
can the cross bars be removed to work exhaust or drive train on those types of vehicles?
I have one so I'll answer. One of the cross bars is removable but manufacturer probably wouldn't advise against it. Iv'e done so occasionally; I'll leave the bar on when lifting and then remove it once I've set a working height. I put the bar back on when lowering.
I agree - don't remove them. Work around the issue.
I think that is reasonable - unless you plan on putting major torque on a bolt that might cause a lot of side-to-side movement?
I use an impact gun or put the bar back on in that situation.
I love this because you can go in and have your dinner . It will be down when you come back.
It lifts quickly when you use the drill high speed setting - just a bit hard on the drill. I have left cars up on the lift for months on end and rolled them around the garage
Where do you buy this?
Google EZ Car Lift. Nice unit.
I like this can you buy in Australia ?
gdzie takie coś dostane i za ile??
Check out their web site for $ and delivery options
Wanted to ask you if you still have the lift, and if you are still loving it? Have you had any issues with it? Has it needed any repairs?
Lovin' it more and more. No issues at all.
Thanks for the feedback - I purchased one myself when they were running the fathers day special. So far so good; I lifted my car and left it lifted for several days just to be sure it would hold lol.
that looks like a good product . Your car looks soo nice . just like a new one . great work Derek . thanks for sharing .
+Johnny R. (My Rabbit 84) Thanks!
Volevo sapere il prezzo. Grazie
check their web site for current pricing - around $2000
Derek: Does the lift have locking mechanism as it goes up?
Technically no, but it is a screw type mechanism that is very strong so I don't see any reason to worry about that.
How can i do to buy, i'm from brazil
too big and heavy to ship ...
Hi! where to buy?
Direct from EZcarlift
How much is this lift?
ANy link to it
check their website - 4000lbs
Hi Derek, have you thought of cutting a non slip pattern into the mating surfaces of rubber? Perhaps a knurl pattern could be made with a hand held hacksaw, not too deep mind. I think I would use axle stands for extra safety when underneath. You are putting a lot of trust in one piece of equipment. Your voice isn't that clear when you move away from the camera, maybe a lapel mike? Great review of the system. Colin
Thx. I have stopped using the rubber blocks - I don't need them. The lift design is very secure the way it ramps up and down - almost impossible to fail in such a way that it would collapse on you.
Great video. I am contemplating purchasing. Any updates on the product since purchases?
Yes, those rubber blocks were making me nervous. I think even w/o any blocks, I would be tempted to through some jackstands under the car to slow the fall on my head. Your VW is so clean!
I don't know about updates to the design but I am very confident that there is no easy way for the stand to collapse - the system uses a screw-type mechanism - but jack stands would help if the car wasn't well balanced (having the center of mass well within the lift points)
Don't there are better mobile lifts out there!!!
Nice tool, but the lift is way too slow..........
For a pro mechanic where time = money I would agree. For me, I put the car up and down as many as 5 or 6 times a day if I am working on it and the speed is fine. Maybe the only thing is that I have started to lock the drill in the on position so that I don't have to keep squeezing the trigger. That way my hand and fingers don't get as tired.
how much cost ?look good
+Saigon Viet Nam It depends on what size is ordered, options, etc. Check their web site ....
Nice lift, I think the drill thing would get tedious, there are other easy use portable ramps, they will need mains power to run a hydraulic pump to raise the vehicle.
but this could work well where no power source is available, but a rechargeable drill is .☺
I use a 500w 120VAC drill plugged into an inverter with a 20AH 12V battery when I am not able to plug into an outlet. I tried using my battery operated drill and it works but is slower to lift the car and puts a lot of stress on the drill
This guy is nutz with those rubber blocks so close to the inside of the rails.
The blocks were a bad idea - I agree. Mainly because my frame rails aren't level - they slope to the ouside a bit so they tend to push the blocks out - I don't use them anymore. That said, at the local race track the pros use blocks like these all the time when lifting cars. I think they are too slippery and unstable.
Exelente buen trabajo realizado felicitaciones
What do you think of the quickjack system compared to this lift?
I have an ezcarlift so I'll answer. The pros and cons of the two:
ezcarlift pros -
Easy creeper access from not only the front and back but sides as well
Raises with a single power cord - not frustrating at all
Simple storage - only two parts - the lift and the drill
ezcarlift lifts higher than quick jack - even the BL7000SLX lifts 4.5 inches less than the ezcarlift
ezcarlift cons -
When assembled unit is large, about 6 feet square, which can be a challenge to store or move around in a smaller space
Lifts slowly, even with a good drill
The cross bars may be in the way for certain repairs such as exhaust or subframe removal. (Instruction manual probably advises otherwise but one of the two rails can be removed if necessary
Must specify lift width when ordering (or buy additional cross bars) - may not be suitable to working with many different vehicle types
quick jack pros -
Powerful, quick to lift, quick to drop
More flexible to store and use in compact spaces
Higher max lifting capacity available, up to 7,000 lbs (ez car lift max is 4400lbs - I put a car close to this weight one time and it lifted it but struggled a little) - best to stick to maybe 3800 and under
quick jack cons -
Takes up a lot of floor space especially between vehicle wheels.
Hydraulic, so more complicated to set up - need to move each section in place and connect with hoses to hydraulic
Does not lift straight up - the vehicle will move forward (or backward) as it rises - need to take this into consideration when choosing where to put the car when starting.
One can leave the lift set up on either side of a regular workspace, but those hoses and cords are going to get dirty and will be in the way when working with a creeper, engine crane, etc.
Given these pros and cons, I chose the ezcarlift. It is not perfect but I have the room and its pros more than outweigh it cons. Choose the one that is right for you.
can't access the car from the side which is critical in my garage ...
I HAVE A QUESTION ...where is the lift made ??
One more question I have a Mazda Miata ,what is the clearance to drive on the lift ? Thank you your video is very helpful .
I have to get me one of these for sure. VF
Jack stands!!
Clean car.... NICE!!!
nice products
Great video and nice car.
+Outsida2K Thx!
I’d have to place 4 jack stands to feel safe, why bother that expense.
Kind of if e
I must tell you that this lift is not going to fall over - and jack stands are in no way compared in terms of safety and stability. Jack stands are scary.
Quick jack seems more usable
Can't access cars from the side with Quick jacks ...
@@derekspratt a bit better yes but this one limits access front to back, seems a small inconvenience compared to its greater simplicity in use. Each to their own.
Muy buen video gracias bendiciones para trabajar más seguro abajo del carro
They should really pay you commission. I'm totally going to buy one.
+George Armerding It makes my life in and around my cars much safer and enjoyable, that's for sure. Nothing else quite like it on the market so I am happy to have found it. I have had other systems in the past but in this case where I need access front/back and sides this is the cats-ass for sure and worth the $.
It's a really smart design, looks strong. I just wish my driveway wasn't on a 3 degree incline or I could use it right there. Lol. Thanks for doing everybody's research homework.
Derek Spratt
Muito bom, embora as rodas aplicadas deveriam ter travagem... Não é o calço que aplica que trava o deslizamento com segurança!
Have you heard of QuickJack? It's a much better, easier, handles more weight, cheaper alternative to your contraption.
Quickjack has its uses but it’s not portable when the car is lifted, so no good for me. Plus quickjack has cables running over the floor to trip you up and twist ankles in. It’s quick though, buy the looks. Lol
I owned a QuickJack but it wouldn't work in my garage - I needed side access ...
Using those rubber blocks looks VERY shady!! That's an accident waiting to happen.
I learned that lesson a while back when the blocks started to slip and I almost damaged the car! Yikes.
Did you just creep under that car with no Jack stands? Way bigger balls than me
The EZ car lift is very stable and safe - much safer than traditional jack stands. But I used tall rubber blocks in this video which is a BIG NO NO as they can shift. The correct rubber blocks to use are short and wide ...
This does not look safe. I would feel safer with a real lift, preferably electric lift. Nice concept though.
The rubber blocks were a dumb idea but simple thin rubber pads or even hockey pucks work well - we used basically the same type of lift at a professional race track I had a membership at - everyone used those lifts with the hockey pucks - even on $1M cars
way too slow for my use but a nice unit
Looks like the car is a shell. No seats or doors on the other side.
I have lifted cars that were 4000lbs with this lift
poderia traduzir para o português
Too expensive, $1900 bucks without accessories!!?
Depends on whether you need access from the sides, and where you need to be able to transport it to different locations, etc. This is a perfect design for a small garage ...
i would not be crawling underneath that without some sort of locking device...
I trust the screw-mechanism but murphy's law does suggest that anything that can fail ultimately will fail - but then again I built my GTI from scratch, designing my own braking system, steering system, electrical system and many other critical components and I race it at 120mph on a tight road course, plus I drive it hours and hours on the street and on the highway - and there are a lot of things that could fail.
use a block of wood, place in rite spot and your golden.
Omg rambling on and on, also lift is too much of a hassle.
I needed a lift I could slide under the side or drive over, and once up in the air I could roll under from front, back or sides. Plus it had to be portable. And this is literally the only unit I know of that can provide that ...
nice product, looks well built but way too expensive, for $1900 bucks without accessories? You can order a hydraulic two post lift for less!
In my world I cannot use a fixed in place system and also needed access from the front, rear or sides of the vehicle, plus portability. No other options are available on the market that meet my needs.
I get it, but I was speaking in abroad term where this product competes with a half dozen other quality products out there. From a cost perspective, if this was sub $1000 I'd have bought it, but it simply is too much money for what it is. There are small form factor hydraulic scissor jacks that are cheaper than this and forgo the long up/down times. Just look around on RUclips, there's are many flavors. But they're all less than $2000 and they're motorized.Every solution is a compromise and there's pros and cons to all, but in my opinion it's simply an overpriced product for what it is. The way I see it, I can lift my car now in about 20 minutes with four quality jack stands and my jack. To move away from that, I'd need something that was faster and inexpensive enough to incentivize me.
Number 9
But none of those products are suitable to low ceilings and movability. For me, while the unit is far from cheap, it will save me building a new garage to house a lift, I won’t need to buy a scissor lift so the posts aren’t in the way to move the car side ways, and I won’t need to buy 4 dollies to move the car around.
I'm actually a little concerned for you Derek. That car jacked up with only an inch or two of rubber holding it in place looks bloody dangerous. I wouldn't get under it if my life depended on it (which is a paradox, because my life would be in the products hands if I did go under it). Please bud, find another lift or at the very least a better way of using the lift.
I agree - and don't use them any more!
The video is good but the sound quality is terrible, hardly understandable.
At $1700 bucks I can get a very nice scissor lift that runs on 120v
This particular lift is good if you need side-access - important new small/narrow garages
This isn't high enough....this will give back ache!!!
Will lift almost 3' up but I didn't need that most of the time
for that money i could buy a scissor lift
Very dangerous rubber blocks!
Agreed. That was a dumb thing to do.
Anyways, thanks for sharing video!
I am a retired Honda mechanic. When I got a new lift 5 yrs ago, I never had any problem using rubber blocks on any Honda models, including the heavy ones like the Pilot, and Odysseys. It came packaged from the mfgr. , but, then again that was not a portable lift.
Can't understand a word he's saying
I wouldnt feel save under the car without an 2nd safety..... cra...cking.....
1700.oo nuts to me na ill get a post lift n hack out my roof n mod my trusses ans or build a portable little guy
Get a QuickJack instead: www.quickjack.com/car-lift-systems.html
As I said, if you don't need side access other jack systems may be less costly and work well. I have used QuickJacks at the track and they are fine. For my garage the EZCarLift works best though.
slow and too noisy
I eventually found that my drill could power the lift on its high speed setting, resulting in a 30s lift which is much better
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そしてうるさい
super crik! çà a l'air bien pratique! où en trouver?