For anyone wondering, that's a 5mm hex head socket you need to keep those bolts from spinning. And don't expect them to come off as easily as they did in this video!
checked so many videos and yours was the one that I actually needed, nice clear instructions nothing extra, specially the diagram on how its supposed to look to level the bar
Thank you 2 garages told me it's over 1000$ to change front end shocks and suspension kit at the front ? Last week I realized it was only end links and on top of that it's not that hard to change. Thanks again for explaining how to fix it.
Ally: You said that the objective was to have the sway bar ends parallel to the ground under load. I think that the way to do this is to measure the old end link and set the new one (adjustable) at the same length. The alternative would be to buy a new non-adjustable link that is the same length as the old. Good videos!
Erle Harris that is not the case when you have lowered or raised your car. Lowering changes the angles and preload. Therefore adjustable end links are advised. Otherwise the preload on the sway bar isn't allowing the struts and coils to do their job.
Hi, was wondering if you do change your car, would really be keen to see all similar videos for a Subaru WRX or STi. Very well done. Keep up the good work.
You're fortunate that the hex key slot wasn't rusted out. I've always had to cut or torch the end links off. Keep up the good work & keep the vids coming....ETCG look out, there's a new sheriff in town!
Another great video! Im still working on the rear instal (waiting on hub bolts... otherwise i have an entire rear suspension worth of parts waiting for install). I will have to check out my front end links. I am having my mechanic redo my control arms. So rear suspension aside, all motor mounts, and front arms, is there any other big trouble points i should watch out for on a 2004 Mazda 3 with about 150k miles on it??? Would love to hear if there are any other parts known for failure. It was not the best maintained car ive found out after purchasing. Its kinda become my shelter dog... I took it in off the mean gravel roads and am going to give it a nice small town road driving till its death. If nothing else this car has given me a great education on auto repair without totally breaking the bank. A nice cheap practice car to practice surgery on. Now i almost have to get a Mazda for my next car for familiarity.
Ha, ha. I'm showing this video to my wife. Her excuses of it being a, "mans" job to work on the car are over. I should have married a sweet do it yourself mechanic like this!
Careful what you wish for. My wife makes messes out of my tools, starts projects while i'm in the middle of one of my own and takes all the 'mod money' to use on her own vehicle. Sometimes i envy the guys who are married to typical 'girly' girls.
Hey Ally!!!! Love all your videos they're all very helpful!!! The only thing I'm confused about is choosing the correct adjustable endlinks. I lowered my mazdaspeed with the koni str.t and h & r spring set which put about a 1.2 in drop in front and rear. I've read through different forums that say you should get a +1 endlink but some say -1. Looking at my passengers side the angle between the sway bar and endlink is less than 90 degrees. So shouldn't that tell me I need a shorter endlink? I keep seeing more post about getting a longer endlink that's why I'm a little confused.
+Javier Fabian If it's angled downwards then yes you will need a shorter end link. It's better to have the sway bar pointing upwards then down. I've read that the E46 M3 front end link is what other Speed 3 drivers use when they need a shorter end link, it's the same style just 3/4 to 1 inch shorter. Here's a link I found for one: www.amazon.com/Moog-K90515-Cam-Bolt-Kit/dp/B000HPQ14C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459874357&sr=8-1&keywords=K90515
this is so helpful.. question though.. how do you make it parallel under load? will I have to keep jacking and dropping my car adjusting it each time until it looks parallel?
Do the end links include the bushings or is it a separate part? My 2010 Mazda 3 needs the sway bar and bushings replaced in the front and just the bushings in the back. I'm also installing new struts in the front. Going to be a dirty weekend! Thanks for any guidance. Love your videos.
You can put the wheels on stands, or just put it on the ground, if you have enough clearance to get to the drop-links (end-links) when it is on the ground. If you want it to be really accurate, have the driver in the driver’s seat while preloading.
if you have difficulty getting a torque wrench on that sort of area a ring extension will work, just follow the formula for torque reduction due to extending the length of the wrench
I should have done this like 5 years ago. My bolts were beyond rusted together. I had no choice but to grind them off. Not easy to do with my large angle grinder.
thanks for your explanation about end link but I have a question regarding the vibration in steering wheel started after 100 km/h speed so do you think that this is one of the reasons why it's happened like this and never had changed... my car is Mitsubishi galant ES 2008 many thanks for your efforts
+Abu Yuosef It's not likely an end link causing vibration at speed. It's probably due to an off balance wheel. Overtime a wheel becoming unbalanced and causing vibration in the steering wheel is quiet normal. It can happen more quickly if the roads you drive on are rough. You should take your car to a tire shop and have them rebalance your wheels. This generally costs $5-$10 each and only takes about half an hour to complete. Thanks for watching!
hello.. i just replaced my 2 front end links because the passenger side already snapped from the joints. but after driving 2 blocks to test and check in my garage. the new end link from passenger side snapped again from the joint.. can u help me what would be the problem?thanks
+Justin Kelly If you go over a speed bump unevenly it will put a lot of pressure on each of the end links. Any play in the ball joints should present itself as some sort of a noise from the wheel wells, typically you'll hear a clunk. The bigger the bump the more chassis flex and pressure on the end links.
everythingdiy Ok thanks! I've heard a clunk for a while now (that seems to be becoming present over large bumps now) and was just wondering if it was easy to check without taking the tire off.
It could be a loose end link. Before replacing anything I would tighten them first. Is that your jeep in your profile picture? I would imagine those end links see a ton of stress.
everythingdiy No that's just a car we own. Its on my 2013 Hyundai Elantra GT. I was going in for an oil change in a week or two and just wanted to see if I could be sure it was those.
is it also a symptom of poor end-link that when you jack up the car and hold your tire and it shakes, a mechanic told me that its because of poor ball joint. would it be fixed if I replace the end link. your reply would be appreciated. thanks
I have a 2012 Mazdaspeed with whiteline front end links with new spring and struts and all four control arms (new). it made no noise. the car was aligned. then i had drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads put on ,then when turn hard into corners ,being left or right it makes scraping noise. I had both front wheels off and everything was good. help please .thankyou.
You should not have to struggle to get the end link in the sway bar, that means you loaded your sway bar. Usually adjust your end link so it slides in nice and easy.
+steve goodwin If your coil overs or drop springs change the angle too drastically then it would be wise to use adjustable end-links. Most of the time you can get away with out having to do it, unless you go crazy low, or you change out to an after market sway bar, then it is just a wise choice. However if you don't need to change it then why waste the money.
Still don't understand the need for adjustable drop links, when all you did was take off what looked like OEM drop links & fitted the adjustable ones at exactly the same length as the old ones??
On my truck, mine went out on the passenger side and it is seems much more simpler to change out than that one car. But it was funny, because it felt like driving a boat or something..lots of pitching forward when brake or turning, etc!
Hi, excume but i have a question, i installed my swaybar end link but they do a noise too hard and i saw they have a different length, is that the problem? or what could be do the problem? what model of swaybar end links you installed? and is for a Mazda 3 right? Thanks and i hope you help me please :)
Sounds like your end links are not tight enough or the end links you are using are poor quality. There should be no noise from the end links whatsoever. We used whiteline end links in this video, they're pricey but they work well. This is a Mazdaspeed 3 not a Mazda 3 the process is similar but the parts are different (mainly stronger and thicker), make sure you use the correct parts for your application. Thanks for watching!
Easiest way IMO - would be measure the centre of the alloy wheel to the arch whilst down on all 4’s. Jack the car up, put blocks under the sills (car must be level) remove wheels.. Jack under each brake disc - both sides at the same time, to simulate the car being on the ground, then match the measurement of the hub centre to arch, you took earlier.. Torque down top and bottom end link nuts with loctite, leave drop link loose, until ARB sits perfectly parallel to the ground.. Use copper grease on the threads and then tighten down. DO NOT over tighten as this destroys the threads inside the drop link. 👍 Nice vid btw
Are you having issues with the lower nut? If you remove the top nut on both sides and slide each end link out of the strut hole you will be able to raise the sway bar by hand pretty easily.
Try a breaker bar, or even a small impact drill with an extension. I managed to remove some hard to access stuff on my older car with my makita impact. it surprisingly fits in tight spots.
+Doug Budziak Can be loose brake pads. A lot of calipers use a spring type shims that prevents the pads from moving or clunking around. If the shims have lost the ability to hold the pads firmly in place you can get clunking from the pads Of course it can be worn ball joints, worn sway bar ends, worn bushings in your A Arms, worn bushing in the shocks, or any loose hardware on any of the items that make up your suspension. When Applying brakes it puts a fair amount of load on everything and can "stop" whatever is making the noise from making the noise.
+MasterMech77 yea i have brand new sway bars, brand new end links, brand new trailer arm bushings, doing brakes soon tho hopefully that will help, anything I should specifically look for?
Doug Budziak I would look for what is referred to as anti rattle clips. I would make sure to get all the wear items that go on the caliper, ie anti chatter pads, anti rattle clips, the rubber boots ect.. Here is a link to show the stuff I am talking about: www.knowyourparts.com/technical-articles/7-brake-parts-neglected/ Hope this helps and please feel free to ask any questions.
That's not the end links you seated the spring incorrectly on the perch. I've done that before you'll need to remove the strut and rotate the spring a little further away from the stopped on the bottom perch. It's either that or you forgot to put the rubber silencer back on the spring.
Your car looks so new and clean and you already have to replace tons of thing on it. I suppose you simply do this to make videos, not that there is a real need. Good videos, btw. And it helps that you are a pretty girl for sure...
You have KW coilovers. Those endlinks are too long for the KW/Mazdaspeed coilovers you are using. KW positions the endlink tab much lower than stock or ANY other coilover. You need Powergrid adjustible endlinks, short version. Drop them an email and say you have KW coilovers and they will send you the correct ones. Your poor swaybar is pushed so far down by those long endlinks, even under load (way too much preload on the swaybar). Install the correct endlinks (and the correct preload) and you will be amazed at how bad your car was handling before. Night and day.
This is going to sound a lot worse than I intend but....WOW, a young lady who knows her way around cars??? You are soooo hot....and I mean that in the uncreepiest of ways...#whatacatch #doyourthing #youngladiesandcars 😍😍😍...
You do a great job keeping everything organized in your videos so its easy to follow along.
For anyone wondering, that's a 5mm hex head socket you need to keep those bolts from spinning. And don't expect them to come off as easily as they did in this video!
Vice grips on the back by the boot while you rachet. You're replacing so you don't have to worry about boot damage.
checked so many videos and yours was the one that I actually needed, nice clear instructions nothing extra, specially the diagram on how its supposed to look to level the bar
i just did this recently before this video was up and oh boy was it helpful, it removed the play in the steering that i used to have
Thank you 2 garages told me it's over 1000$ to change front end shocks and suspension kit at the front ? Last week I realized it was only end links and on top of that it's not that hard to change. Thanks again for explaining how to fix it.
well done you explained it PERFECTLY... many thanks learnt something today..
Ally: You said that the objective was to have the sway bar ends parallel to the ground under load. I think that the way to do this is to measure the old end link and set the new one (adjustable) at the same length. The alternative would be to buy a new non-adjustable link that is the same length as the old. Good videos!
Erle Harris that is not the case when you have lowered or raised your car. Lowering changes the angles and preload. Therefore adjustable end links are advised. Otherwise the preload on the sway bar isn't allowing the struts and coils to do their job.
Hi, was wondering if you do change your car, would really be keen to see all similar videos for a Subaru WRX or STi. Very well done. Keep up the good work.
great video ive been looking everywhere to fond out the angle of the sway bar
Would really love to see a review on the whiteline end links
You're fortunate that the hex key slot wasn't rusted out. I've always had to cut or torch the end links off. Keep up the good work & keep the vids coming....ETCG look out, there's a new sheriff in town!
Another great video! Im still working on the rear instal (waiting on hub bolts... otherwise i have an entire rear suspension worth of parts waiting for install). I will have to check out my front end links. I am having my mechanic redo my control arms. So rear suspension aside, all motor mounts, and front arms, is there any other big trouble points i should watch out for on a 2004 Mazda 3 with about 150k miles on it??? Would love to hear if there are any other parts known for failure. It was not the best maintained car ive found out after purchasing. Its kinda become my shelter dog... I took it in off the mean gravel roads and am going to give it a nice small town road driving till its death. If nothing else this car has given me a great education on auto repair without totally breaking the bank. A nice cheap practice car to practice surgery on. Now i almost have to get a Mazda for my next car for familiarity.
This is the kind of girl you take home to Mom! :)
Ha, ha. I'm showing this video to my wife. Her excuses of it being a, "mans" job to work on the car are over. I should have married a sweet do it yourself mechanic like this!
Careful what you wish for. My wife makes messes out of my tools, starts projects while i'm in the middle of one of my own and takes all the 'mod money' to use on her own vehicle. Sometimes i envy the guys who are married to typical 'girly' girls.
SAMUEL ADAMS I feel u Mr
There no such thing as man job/woman job. If you are taught how to do it.
Hello, awesome video btw, will be replacing parts pretty soon, what size is the Hex Key Socket you used in this video, Thanks 4 the Help, ;)
Hey Ally!!!! Love all your videos they're all very helpful!!! The only thing I'm confused about is choosing the correct adjustable endlinks. I lowered my mazdaspeed with the koni str.t and h & r spring set which put about a 1.2 in drop in front and rear. I've read through different forums that say you should get a +1 endlink but some say -1. Looking at my passengers side the angle between the sway bar and endlink is less than 90 degrees. So shouldn't that tell me I need a shorter endlink? I keep seeing more post about getting a longer endlink that's why I'm a little confused.
+Javier Fabian If it's angled downwards then yes you will need a shorter end link. It's better to have the sway bar pointing upwards then down. I've read that the E46 M3 front end link is what other Speed 3 drivers use when they need a shorter end link, it's the same style just 3/4 to 1 inch shorter. Here's a link I found for one: www.amazon.com/Moog-K90515-Cam-Bolt-Kit/dp/B000HPQ14C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459874357&sr=8-1&keywords=K90515
this is so helpful.. question though.. how do you make it parallel under load? will I have to keep jacking and dropping my car adjusting it each time until it looks parallel?
Do the end links include the bushings or is it a separate part? My 2010 Mazda 3 needs the sway bar and bushings replaced in the front and just the bushings in the back. I'm also installing new struts in the front. Going to be a dirty weekend! Thanks for any guidance. Love your videos.
sway bar are seperate unless you buy aswaybar kit
Great video...thanks for sharing!
If your cluck doesn't go away you should replace the sway bar bushings.
So helpful, thank you!!!
Nice vid! Why didn't you do the rear and front at the same time?
+ItsdG HD They want bad at different times. The rears were done almost a year ago.
Nice video, this is gonna help a lot thanks :)
Install adjustable end links with the suspension loaded. Ramps make it easy.
Hello, how do you change the bushings or rubber of the front stabilizer bar of the Mazda 6 2007?, my lady, you will have a video?
Do you even preload bruh...
How do you preload
You can put the wheels on stands, or just put it on the ground, if you have enough clearance to get to the drop-links (end-links) when it is on the ground. If you want it to be really accurate, have the driver in the driver’s seat while preloading.
Ty, this was what i came for. Much appreciate it when ppl have gone through the proccess and help others. 👌
cool.very well expressed. nice job!!
if you have difficulty getting a torque wrench on that sort of area a ring extension will work, just follow the formula for torque reduction due to extending the length of the wrench
I should have done this like 5 years ago. My bolts were beyond rusted together. I had no choice but to grind them off. Not easy to do with my large angle grinder.
Planning to change mine , but my I also have something creaking when moving the steering wheel slowly it will probably be something else
thanks for your explanation about end link but I have a question regarding the vibration in steering wheel started after 100 km/h speed so do you think that this is one of the reasons why it's happened like this and never had changed... my car is Mitsubishi galant ES 2008 many thanks for your efforts
+Abu Yuosef It's not likely an end link causing vibration at speed. It's probably due to an off balance wheel. Overtime a wheel becoming unbalanced and causing vibration in the steering wheel is quiet normal. It can happen more quickly if the roads you drive on are rough. You should take your car to a tire shop and have them rebalance your wheels. This generally costs $5-$10 each and only takes about half an hour to complete. Thanks for watching!
+everythingdiy you are correct...yes I think it's a time to replace the old tires and doing the balancing.
The Mazda manual for pre-2009 vehicles gives the torque figure for both nuts as 30-40ft-lbs (40-55Nm) so 35ft-lbs is right in the middle.
good video. good job
10 more subs to 30k, congrats!
hello.. i just replaced my 2 front end links because the passenger side already snapped from the joints. but after driving 2 blocks to test and check in my garage. the new end link from passenger side snapped again from the joint.. can u help me what would be the problem?thanks
how long did it take you to install?
Good job :) what kind of swaybar end link is it ?
+Sven Mk looks like whiteline mate
Yes this is it! Found it on Google thanks mate
HELPFUL VIDEO. IF YOU USE A BARRIER CREAM OIL COMES OFF HANDS MUCH EASIER. THANK YOU FOR SHARING.
The front end link can you use to the rear?
some height adjustment? what should be the sway bar position?
Anyway to quickly check about a possible bad endlnk? (Some said to have someone rock the car while you hold the endlink to check for movement?)
+Justin Kelly If you go over a speed bump unevenly it will put a lot of pressure on each of the end links. Any play in the ball joints should present itself as some sort of a noise from the wheel wells, typically you'll hear a clunk. The bigger the bump the more chassis flex and pressure on the end links.
everythingdiy Ok thanks! I've heard a clunk for a while now (that seems to be becoming present over large bumps now) and was just wondering if it was easy to check without taking the tire off.
It could be a loose end link. Before replacing anything I would tighten them first. Is that your jeep in your profile picture? I would imagine those end links see a ton of stress.
everythingdiy No that's just a car we own. Its on my 2013 Hyundai Elantra GT. I was going in for an oil change in a week or two and just wanted to see if I could be sure it was those.
a long pry bar moving the sway bar up and down while your other hand feels for play in the upper then lower joint on the end link
Torque down under load or jacked up like she did?
Could this also be the cause of a wobbly steering wheel at higher speeds?
Yes
is it also a symptom of poor end-link that when you jack up the car and hold your tire and it shakes, a mechanic told me that its because of poor ball joint. would it be fixed if I replace the end link. your reply would be appreciated.
thanks
What you describe is indeed the Ball Joints - Not the end links...
I have a 2012 Mazdaspeed with whiteline front end links with new spring and struts and all four control arms (new). it made no noise. the car was aligned. then i had drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads put on ,then when turn hard into corners ,being left or right it makes scraping noise. I had both front wheels off and everything was good. help please .thankyou.
Maybe your tire is rubbing on a suspension component, mine did after I installed coilovers so I had to add a 5mm spacer.
Will i need that spacer just for the front or front and back?
my speed 3 is making a clunking noise when i go over small bumps at low speeds is that from the front end links being loose or bad?
Tommy Wals yes. I recently got mine checked. Either links gone loose or need replacing
Do I need to get my car aligned after I install end links?
+Zadean Robinson Probably not. But, you can get it checked after the job is done to be sure.
+Don Dudley thanks much.
No, my mechanic said replacing them does NOT alter the Front End Alignment!
Ah I had no idea there was an orientation to the sway bar ends facing flush with the ground.
You should not have to struggle to get the end link in the sway bar, that means you loaded your sway bar. Usually adjust your end link so it slides in nice and easy.
Side question. What is the official color of the car? Its an awesome looking blue!
+lyianx Celestial Blue Mica, color code is 38J. Thanks for watching!
+everythingdiy Awesome.. Thanks.. Think im going to have a hard time finding one in that color lol.
+lyianx it's only on 2010 n I believe 2011
+max3dxx :O what? Thats Crap! Though even expanding my search to 2010's, i dont see any blue ones for sale.
Very good
if you need adjustable end links due to your coilovers, why were the stock endlinks already in use?
+steve goodwin Because the position the sway bar was in was within reason and they were working perfectly fine. Thanks for watching!
+steve goodwin If your coil overs or drop springs change the angle too drastically then it would be wise to use adjustable end-links. Most of the time you can get away with out having to do it, unless you go crazy low, or you change out to an after market sway bar, then it is just a wise choice. However if you don't need to change it then why waste the money.
You have to adjust the link to slide into the bar, you can't move the bar to fit the end link
Still don't understand the need for adjustable drop links, when all you did was take off what looked like OEM drop links & fitted the adjustable ones at exactly the same length as the old ones??
On my truck, mine went out on the passenger side and it is seems much more simpler to change out than that one car. But it was funny, because it felt like driving a boat or something..lots of pitching forward when brake or turning, etc!
good job
your learning safety first, you used axle stands or jack stands as you call them ; )
How am i supposed to adjust it to have it parrallel to the ground if i put the wheel back on?
Blocks under each wheel
My sway links are rusted and won’t turn and so I’m stuck on getting it off any suggestions
Torch and pb blaster
LMAO 😂🤣 omg I wish I was strong enough to unbolt it like that!
Hi, excume but i have a question, i installed my swaybar end link but they do a noise too hard and i saw they have a different length, is that the problem? or what could be do the problem? what model of swaybar end links you installed? and is for a Mazda 3 right? Thanks and i hope you help me please :)
Sounds like your end links are not tight enough or the end links you are using are poor quality. There should be no noise from the end links whatsoever. We used whiteline end links in this video, they're pricey but they work well. This is a Mazdaspeed 3 not a Mazda 3 the process is similar but the parts are different (mainly stronger and thicker), make sure you use the correct parts for your application. Thanks for watching!
Easiest way IMO - would be measure the centre of the alloy wheel to the arch whilst down on all 4’s. Jack the car up, put blocks under the sills (car must be level) remove wheels.. Jack under each brake disc - both sides at the same time, to simulate the car being on the ground, then match the measurement of the hub centre to arch, you took earlier.. Torque down top and bottom end link nuts with loctite, leave drop link loose, until ARB sits perfectly parallel to the ground.. Use copper grease on the threads and then tighten down. DO NOT over tighten as this destroys the threads inside the drop link. 👍 Nice vid btw
I could not remove the bottom sway bar end link nut by hand and could not fit a power tool to remove it, what should I do?
Are you having issues with the lower nut? If you remove the top nut on both sides and slide each end link out of the strut hole you will be able to raise the sway bar by hand pretty easily.
everythingdiy at 2:40 in your video I could not break loose the nut. Do I saw off the nut if I don't have enough strength to loosen the nut?
Try a breaker bar, or even a small impact drill with an extension. I managed to remove some hard to access stuff on my older car with my makita impact. it surprisingly fits in tight spots.
if you unbolt both sided, you don't have to fight with the sway bar.
what would be a cause to a clinking noise when you go over a bump but it goes away if you apply the brake? #askallydiy
+Doug Budziak
Can be loose brake pads. A lot of calipers use a spring type shims that prevents the pads from moving or clunking around. If the shims have lost the ability to hold the pads firmly in place you can get clunking from the pads Of course it can be worn ball joints, worn sway bar ends, worn bushings in your A Arms, worn bushing in the shocks, or any loose hardware on any of the items that make up your suspension. When Applying brakes it puts a fair amount of load on everything and can "stop" whatever is making the noise from making the noise.
+MasterMech77 yea i have brand new sway bars, brand new end links, brand new trailer arm bushings, doing brakes soon tho hopefully that will help, anything I should specifically look for?
Doug Budziak
I would look for what is referred to as anti rattle clips. I would make sure to get all the wear items that go on the caliper, ie anti chatter pads, anti rattle clips, the rubber boots ect..
Here is a link to show the stuff I am talking about:
www.knowyourparts.com/technical-articles/7-brake-parts-neglected/
Hope this helps and please feel free to ask any questions.
+MasterMech77 thank you
Doug Budziak
You're welcome and my pleasure to help out!
after I installed my Corksport springs, I hear clunking noises when I turn the steering wheel. Better check my end links.
That's not the end links you seated the spring incorrectly on the perch. I've done that before you'll need to remove the strut and rotate the spring a little further away from the stopped on the bottom perch. It's either that or you forgot to put the rubber silencer back on the spring.
Thank you so much.
show us how to replace an alternator.
Bravo bravo
inspiring
Mine isn’t coming off that easy
Your car looks so new and clean and you already have to replace tons of thing on it. I suppose you simply do this to make videos, not that there is a real need.
Good videos, btw. And it helps that you are a pretty girl for sure...
That New swaybar she's using cost over a $100. On Amazon.
You have KW coilovers. Those endlinks are too long for the KW/Mazdaspeed coilovers you are using. KW positions the endlink tab much lower than stock or ANY other coilover. You need Powergrid adjustible endlinks, short version. Drop them an email and say you have KW coilovers and they will send you the correct ones. Your poor swaybar is pushed so far down by those long endlinks, even under load (way too much preload on the swaybar). Install the correct endlinks (and the correct preload) and you will be amazed at how bad your car was handling before. Night and day.
damn, nice nails and good with cars.
have too tighten them good!
She's better than me
#whatloveis
This is going to sound a lot worse than I intend but....WOW, a young lady who knows her way around cars??? You are soooo hot....and I mean that in the uncreepiest of ways...#whatacatch #doyourthing #youngladiesandcars 😍😍😍...
"Wire holder" Jesus.
NiL Nine oh stfu😂
Will you merry me? 😍
She's not a goat.
incorrect info
Such an attractive quality in a girl :)
please wear latex gloves..
BE MY WAIFU!!!
rofl.
you are so cute :)
I bet you didn't remove the wheels but good job anyhow.
good job