Ty for this amazing video. I was in tears this morning when I got ready to take my shower and nothing but freezing water. Watched your video and yup it was the switch on the panel. Fix was just literally the flip of the switch. Then it was literally tears of joy. Thank you for the amazing instructive video.
Thanks for the lesson very well explained and didn't realize igniter is also sensor that will cause flame not to stay on, just ordered spare. Cheers my friend
that was a really thorough rundown and I've got the same unit. however my unit is now completely dead for both propane and electric water heat. I'm getting no sound at all. they both work just a matter of days ago. but I had to quite a bit of water leaking out the pressure release valve so I switched it. it worked for one day and now it stopped. I know the electric element was making a fair bit of noise to heat up which I think was slightly abnormal
I love how you say oh take your control module off and have a dealer test it for FREE then you follow it up with go online and buy a new one. Great job supporting those people who just tested your module and didn’t charge you.
From my experience One of the first things to check is the thermal link fuse. It is located on the E.C.O. / T STAT on the Brown wire. It is the plastic tube about three inches long with the wire running thru it with pink spade connectors on either end. It's purpose is to blow or open up if the area gets to hot (heat hot) and it shuts power off to the the T STAT. While not recommended you can test it by turning off power to the unit and unplugging the fuse from both ends and simply reconnecting the brown wire to its proper connection leaving the fuse out of the circuit and turn the heater on if it works there is part of the problem. (The other part is why did it blow?). IT IS NOT A GOOD IDEA TO RUN IT WITHOUT THE THERMAL FUSE however it will work in an emergency until you can replace it.
What / where is the E C O / T STAT located? We have a Suburban electric/propane water heater. Replaced anode rod, 110 element switch, and heating element. Works on propane but not electric. Is this brown wire on the outside or inside under the sink, or the fuse box?
DC Fuse first (mine !5 Amp located aside the 120 breakers in the inverter/main panel) The pull-able modern auto fuse type. I spent hours on forums and eons trouble shooting this and that, while I'd initially looked at my fuses, I had nor looked well enough, The fuses were poorly, indeed mislabeled from the factory. The "Z" was blown on the blue 15 amp fuse, What might have taken 2 minutes took 2 days.
This video is very informative and helpful so thank you. My question is this: I recently purchased an RV to become a full time RV-Er! Now can I leave the water heater on all the time or should I only turn it on when I’m going to need to use it? Mine is currently out which stinks because I’ve only had it a week. It is propane only, the tanks are full, the water was scalding hot two days ago and all of the sudden no hot water. I’m about to check the fuses and see if that is the issue but would appreciate you advice on turning on or off the water heater. Thank you,
Looks like we have a very similar unit. Coachman Chaparral 28 RLS. What if neither electric or LP gas works? Plus we are getting a DSI Fault on the panel inside next to the LP and electric W.H. Switches… Thank you!
I replaced my thermal cutoff 2 weeks ago, which fixed my hot water problem. The very next week had the same issue, replaced and its now working again. Do you think it was just a bad part(the first one) or some other under lying issue?
I didn’t want to be “that guy” on the internet, but at 2:09 what you are pointing at as the heating element is not the heating element. On an Atwood/Dometic the 110 heating element is on the back side, bottom edge, along with its power control relay. The control board will send +12v on the yellow wire when calling for heat from the 110 element. That yellow wire runs to the power relay at the back that closes to energizes the heating element. In most applications the water heater has to be removed to change the 110 element on an Atwood. What you are pointing to are the ECO (emergency cut off) on the left, and the thermostat on the right. The thermostat should have continuity only when below its set temperature. The ECO is a safety and will shut the unit down if the thermostat fails closed and temperatures exceed normal range. Generally they come as a set that includes the foam cover, ECO and Thermostat. Once the foam is peeled off the thermostat and eco just twist to align tabs with slots to pull out. I’d also mention the silver thing in clear tubing on the right lug of the thermostat is also a safety/thermo cutoff. It’s above the burner assembly for a reason. If a person leaves the propane side on while traveling, wind can draw the flame out of the burner, and (don’t bet on it) that safety might open and prevent a disaster.
I have a full tank of propane and it was running fine last night on propane. I wanted to check out electric mode this morning and that worked fine. Then I tried to put it back on propane and and it wouldn't light and I didn't get the fault light by the switch either. I always thought you could run electric and gas together I checked the fuses and breakers and everything was good just wondering if there's an inline fuse somewhere that I'm missing in this suburban water heater. I checked all the other propane appliances in my camper and they were all good. Just wonder if I have a bad switch since I don't even get a fault light or clicking lighting noise.
Can you provide more info on why the water heater may not run if the batteries are low, even when you are plugged into shore power? I am having this problem now. My batteries are low, and even though I am connected to 50 amp service, I cannot get my electric water heater to run. It is the same one shown in this video. I was able to get it to run on gas, but not on electric. Thanks.
I appreciate the video and think I may have a similar issue as the one you described experiencing on a previous camping trip. My Winnebago Minnie plus works fine on electricity, but will not ignite when using propane. What did you do to solve the issue after you tested your board? Thanks in advance!
I've got a running water heater, but the water doesn't get warm past 9 minutes, but then the carbon dioxide detector goes off when I run the shower. I wonder if the heating element is out
Thanks a lot, very helpful. My Winnebago Micro water heater does not work on electric or propane. I checked and confirmed I have 12v going into the board, and the fuse is okay. I’ll be ordering a board. Any suggestions where to get the part?
How old is your trailer A.J.? You could always reach out to the water heater manufacturer even if it is out of warranty of if they have a updated model number. If not, Amazon will probably carry it or a quick google search should give you a few retailers.
@@garbo5000 You can get a really good replacement from Dinosaur Electronics. Here is the reference chart to match up the make and model of your RV Water Heater. www.dinosaurelectronics.com/UIB_Chart.htm
I have a 2012 Coachmen Apex that doesn't have an Air Adjustment, only a Screw to adjust Gas Flow .Does it supposed to have one? I have adjusted the Gas Flow Screw all the way down and one turn Up I get hot water for an instant, but none after that. I smell unused Gas all the time and have soot on the side of the Camper coming up from the Heater. Do I need to Turn the Screw Up, because I have a Lazy Flame Now or Down?
Sir, you’re pointing to the ECO and the thermostat which you stated were heating elements. It’s an easy mistake to make. Those are not the heating elements. I’m sure a lot of people already told you that, but I’m just checking to make sure. Thank you for the good video.
Mine starts heats up the tank to hot but does not refire up on its own it goes to a fault light? My other question is when it doesn't relight is propane still coming out?
I have a electric water heater and i had no hot water, a buddy in the rv resort helped me out and all he did was flip that blue knob thing thats connected to the silver lever and flipped it up. He said my trailer was winterized so apparently i have to that every so often when it stops working. No idea why
Getting ready for my shower this morning I went to turn on my hot water heater nothing no red light no igniting it's not even trying to ignite. . any information would be greatly appreciated thank you
My issue is I have no power to the hot water heater at all. I have power at the on off switch. The propane detector is working it clicks the on off so annoyed on and off but no power to the hot water heater. I’m baffled.
Great Video but...here's my problem, mine turned on by itself and then got the water so hot it blew the water lines to the kitchen sink. This happened at 2am, was very loud and I had water everywhere until I shut it off.
If you have an Atwood water heater, the heating element is at the back of the water heater. It has to be removed in order to replace or test the element.
I have a 2006 Hitchhiker Trailer, why would I have hot water in the kitchen sink and not in the shower? Is there a valve I need to turn on? Thank you for the video.
Someone may have a inline cut on/off under a sink or near water heater that somehow got cut off. The lever will be inline with the waterline to indicate it is on and going to the area. If lever is perpendicular it is off.
My heater will not work on propane, the ignitor has good continuity, there is power to the board but it does not have any power to the ignitor . I gather it is the board.
The Savvy Campers ! Hey just got back from first trip . At home before we left? Could not ignite with power with electric from home . Did Propane it started .. got to camp started with gas and was fine until next day ? Would not turn on ! Plenty of propane breaker on , also tried to use generator... won’t come on .
@thesavycampers I have a similar rig (2021 Micro). We’ve had it for about six months and when we got out to the campsite last weekend, the water heater wouldn’t work with gas or electric. Will the igniter continually click when the water heater is turned on propane like it did in the video? Ours does not currently. Thanks for the video!
I have a problem with my water heater not turning on and the harness that is connected to the pc is burned, I have replaced the harness 2 times and the same thing happens, do you think the problem is the pc?
My problem is it won't shut off. Keeps running I have to manually shut it off myself. I checked and pushed the reset seems they were OK. I don't know where to go from here
You need to view how the dual propane regulators actually work. It does not matter what direction you put the lever to determine what tank is online. It is ONLY for the fill meter. The online tank will always be the first tank valve that is turned on first. To prove this, turn your lever to one side, say curb side, then go turn off the curbside tank valve. The regulator auto switches to the roadside tank no matter the position of the regulator lever. Placing the lever halfway is just ridiculous.
I don't have a hot water breaker or a fuse for the hot water heater it's a 2012 pioneer not like it's extremely old I don't understand why it doesn't anybody have any information would be greatly appreciated thank you
Anybody have an idea why my off/on switch does not even illuminate when turned on? It's propane and is one month old. It just stopped and makes no click or anything when I turn the switch on.
Try cleaning off your flame sensor, will look like a probe that is mounted into the flame. This was the exact problem I had with mine and it ended up being the control board. If cleaning the sensor doesn't work, take your control board off and to a service center to test for you. Hope you get it running, let me know what you end up finding out.
My water is hot but the water is coming out of the back when my daughter takes a shower. Then it stops. I’ve tried to get a remote tech and I have the money but nobody shows up. I’m full time and it’s too much to take to dealership.
Them are not heating elements in the front. It has one heating element in the back. Them 2 round things in the front are thermal disks. Or what ever. I here like a temperature sensor. I just replaced my heating element and them disks. Did not fix my problem my control bord buzzing and have the falt light if I run ether one. But my gas turns one but won't turn off.
What if i just had my burn thermal resistor. Reaplaced because of a load boom and it scared the mess out of me now it happened again last so we called the guy back he said i may need a new regulator any advice? New to rv
You probably have a propane leak somewhere in your propane connection at the water heater. Try using some soapy water sprayed on your fittings to search for it.
What is considered the "rear" of the tank? Would that be the opposite side to the one we were just looking at in the video (meaning, the side Inside the RV/Travel Trailer?) Thanks in advance for your reply. I bought a used trailer and am trying to figure this all out. Sidenote: I'm a home improvement contractor and own (and maintain) my 33' cabin cruiser (boat). I can fix things, I'm just not familiar with RV systems and appliances yet.
@@gellotion Yes, the rear of the tank would be accessed from inside the RV. It should be behind a panel directly behind where the heater is located on the outside. Hope you are able to troubleshoot it.
@@TheSavvyCampers I appreciate your reply and have some more info to share... there's a thermal diode on the brown wire closest to the control panel. It works similar to a fuse... it burns out and breaks the circuit, shutting off the water heater and preventing it from restarting. It's a safety measure in case the ambient temperature gets too hot in that area, to protect against fire spreading. I found this out on another trouble shooting video, and it solved my problem. I see you have the same diode on your heater. The replacement was about $30 at Camping World, for a new wire and 2 diodes...one to install and one to keep on board for backup.
Ty for this amazing video. I was in tears this morning when I got ready to take my shower and nothing but freezing water. Watched your video and yup it was the switch on the panel. Fix was just literally the flip of the switch. Then it was literally tears of joy. Thank you for the amazing instructive video.
I've had luke warm water for 6 months in my new RV....One of your tips fixed it...thanks!
Best information on how to troubleshoot your heater that Ive seen so far. Great Job
Thanks 👍
Agreed, best explanation I've seen on here thank you. 😊
Thanks for the lesson very well explained and didn't realize igniter is also sensor that will cause flame not to stay on, just ordered spare. Cheers my friend
Great job explaining everything please make some more great videos on RVs operating procedures
Thanks for your information. I blow out the debris of the sensor pipe area, and that took care of the problem!!!
I like that you keep your video relevant and to the point :D Thank you
Excellent video!!! 👍🏼👍🏼 Thank you so much!!! 😁
You are so welcome!
that was a really thorough rundown and I've got the same unit. however my unit is now completely dead for both propane and electric water heat. I'm getting no sound at all. they both work just a matter of days ago. but I had to quite a bit of water leaking out the pressure release valve so I switched it. it worked for one day and now it stopped. I know the electric element was making a fair bit of noise to heat up which I think was slightly abnormal
Muchas gracias gringo. He aprendido mas, acerca de RV,s, gracias a tu video.
Dios vendiga tu Espíritu samaritano. Amén.
LOL...."Gringo" 😂
Legend ! The valve was open you helped me big time !
I love how you say oh take your control module off and have a dealer test it for FREE then you follow it up with go online and buy a new one. Great job supporting those people who just tested your module and didn’t charge you.
Great centament... Hope the dealers have it too when deciding their prices and not over charging....
Here. Have this.🍼
Hello Eric. Do you have a more detailed picture or movie on replacing the water heater element? Thanks Chuck
Thanks for the video. Took the sensor out and cleaned it and it has stayed lit.
Glad it worked for you Will!
From my experience One of the first things to check is the thermal link fuse. It is located on the E.C.O. / T STAT on the Brown wire. It is the plastic tube about three inches long with the wire running thru it with pink spade connectors on either end. It's purpose is to blow or open up if the area gets to hot (heat hot) and it shuts power off to the the T STAT. While not recommended you can test it by turning off power to the unit and unplugging the fuse from both ends and simply reconnecting the brown wire to its proper connection leaving the fuse out of the circuit and turn the heater on if it works there is part of the problem. (The other part is why did it blow?). IT IS NOT A GOOD IDEA TO RUN IT WITHOUT THE THERMAL FUSE however it will work in an emergency until you can replace it.
This just fixed me issue. Thank you!
What / where is the E C O / T STAT located? We have a Suburban electric/propane water heater. Replaced anode rod, 110 element switch, and heating element. Works on propane but not electric. Is this brown wire on the outside or inside under the sink, or the fuse box?
@@kathypalmer8565 its located outside
Lol I thought that was the issue it looks blown out but I didn’t know what it was called
DC Fuse first (mine !5 Amp located aside the 120 breakers in the inverter/main panel) The pull-able modern auto fuse type. I spent hours on forums and eons trouble shooting this and that, while I'd initially looked at my fuses, I had nor looked well enough, The fuses were poorly, indeed mislabeled from the factory. The "Z" was blown on the blue 15 amp fuse, What might have taken 2 minutes took 2 days.
Thank you this was the best video I watched on troubleshooting hot water heater.
Glad it helped
❤ thank you so much for the tips
A little more info on which terminals to check for continuity and how would be good
This video is very informative and helpful so thank you. My question is this: I recently purchased an RV to become a full time RV-Er! Now can I leave the water heater on all the time or should I only turn it on when I’m going to need to use it? Mine is currently out which stinks because I’ve only had it a week. It is propane only, the tanks are full, the water was scalding hot two days ago and all of the sudden no hot water. I’m about to check the fuses and see if that is the issue but would appreciate you advice on turning on or off the water heater. Thank you,
Looks like we have a very similar unit. Coachman Chaparral 28 RLS. What if neither electric or LP gas works? Plus we are getting a DSI Fault on the panel inside next to the LP and electric W.H. Switches… Thank you!
Great video! Thanks for the information.
I replaced my thermal cutoff 2 weeks ago, which fixed my hot water problem. The very next week had the same issue, replaced and its now working again. Do you think it was just a bad part(the first one) or some other under lying issue?
I didn’t want to be “that guy” on the internet, but at 2:09 what you are pointing at as the heating element is not the heating element. On an Atwood/Dometic the 110 heating element is on the back side, bottom edge, along with its power control relay.
The control board will send +12v on the yellow wire when calling for heat from the 110 element. That yellow wire runs to the power relay at the back that closes to energizes the heating element. In most applications the water heater has to be removed to change the 110 element on an Atwood.
What you are pointing to are the ECO (emergency cut off) on the left, and the thermostat on the right. The thermostat should have continuity only when below its set temperature. The ECO is a safety and will shut the unit down if the thermostat fails closed and temperatures exceed normal range. Generally they come as a set that includes the foam cover, ECO and Thermostat. Once the foam is peeled off the thermostat and eco just twist to align tabs with slots to pull out.
I’d also mention the silver thing in clear tubing on the right lug of the thermostat is also a safety/thermo cutoff. It’s above the burner assembly for a reason. If a person leaves the propane side on while traveling, wind can draw the flame out of the burner, and (don’t bet on it) that safety might open and prevent a disaster.
I can't get any hot water to the sink or shower the hot water heater is working great any help would be appreciated
I have a full tank of propane and it was running fine last night on propane. I wanted to check out electric mode this morning and that worked fine. Then I tried to put it back on propane and and it wouldn't light and I didn't get the fault light by the switch either. I always thought you could run electric and gas together I checked the fuses and breakers and everything was good just wondering if there's an inline fuse somewhere that I'm missing in this suburban water heater. I checked all the other propane appliances in my camper and they were all good. Just wonder if I have a bad switch since I don't even get a fault light or clicking lighting noise.
Can you provide more info on why the water heater may not run if the batteries are low, even when you are plugged into shore power? I am having this problem now. My batteries are low, and even though I am connected to 50 amp service, I cannot get my electric water heater to run. It is the same one shown in this video. I was able to get it to run on gas, but not on electric. Thanks.
I appreciate the video and think I may have a similar issue as the one you described experiencing on a previous camping trip. My Winnebago Minnie plus works fine on electricity, but will not ignite when using propane. What did you do to solve the issue after you tested your board? Thanks in advance!
I had to get a new board. Apparently there was a flaw with my model of board so they replaced it after the warranty was out.
Very good explaination.
FYI: Never use sandpaper on a flame sensor. You can clean it off without scratching it by using a dollar bill.
Wrong
I've got a running water heater, but the water doesn't get warm past 9 minutes, but then the carbon dioxide detector goes off when I run the shower. I wonder if the heating element is out
What grade sand paper do you use
Thank you I will check the igniter and check it with ohms meter
Thanks a lot, very helpful. My Winnebago Micro water heater does not work on electric or propane. I checked and confirmed I have 12v going into the board, and the fuse is okay. I’ll be ordering a board. Any suggestions where to get the part?
How old is your trailer A.J.? You could always reach out to the water heater manufacturer even if it is out of warranty of if they have a updated model number. If not, Amazon will probably carry it or a quick google search should give you a few retailers.
@@TheSavvyCampers It’s less then a year old. It’s 2021 we purchased in Aug.
@@Miltownred83 I have a 2021 also, any luck finding a board?
@@garbo5000 You can get a really good replacement from Dinosaur Electronics. Here is the reference chart to match up the make and model of your RV Water Heater.
www.dinosaurelectronics.com/UIB_Chart.htm
Thanks. I just fixed my Dometic water heater which had a corroded thermistor connector.
I have a 2012 Coachmen Apex that doesn't have an Air Adjustment, only a Screw to adjust Gas Flow
.Does it supposed to have one? I have adjusted the Gas Flow Screw all the way down and one turn Up
I get hot water for an instant, but none after that. I smell unused Gas all the time and have soot on the side of the Camper coming up from the Heater. Do I need to Turn the Screw Up, because I have a Lazy Flame Now or Down?
Sir, you’re pointing to the ECO and the thermostat which you stated were heating elements. It’s an easy mistake to make. Those are not the heating elements. I’m sure a lot of people already told you that, but I’m just checking to make sure. Thank you for the good video.
Mine starts heats up the tank to hot but does not refire up on its own it goes to a fault light? My other question is when it doesn't relight is propane still coming out?
If the 2A fuse keeps going out, what do you think that can be?
I have a electric water heater and i had no hot water, a buddy in the rv resort helped me out and all he did was flip that blue knob thing thats connected to the silver lever and flipped it up. He said my trailer was winterized so apparently i have to that every so often when it stops working. No idea why
Getting ready for my shower this morning I went to turn on my hot water heater nothing no red light no igniting it's not even trying to ignite.
. any information would be greatly appreciated thank you
Im not getting gas through the regulator. How can i correct this?
My issue is I have no power to the hot water heater at all. I have power at the on off switch. The propane detector is working it clicks the on off so annoyed on and off but no power to the hot water heater. I’m baffled.
Excellent great video mate
Many thanks!
Great Video but...here's my problem, mine turned on by itself and then got the water so hot it blew the water lines to the kitchen sink. This happened at 2am, was very loud and I had water everywhere until I shut it off.
I have hot water in my tank but cold coming out the faucets...any ideas?
I was hoping that you would show how to test and where the 120v heating element is.
If you have an Atwood water heater, the heating element is at the back of the water heater. It has to be removed in order to replace or test the element.
Where's the flame sensor located?
I have a 2006 Hitchhiker Trailer, why would I have hot water in the kitchen sink and not in the shower? Is there a valve I need to turn on? Thank you for the video.
Someone may have a inline cut on/off under a sink or near water heater that somehow got cut off.
The lever will be inline with the waterline to indicate it is on and going to the area.
If lever is perpendicular it is off.
@@michaelwatson8103 thank you sir!
I have gas to the valve but it is not passing through the valve. how do you check the solenoids on the valve?
When we turn on pump switch on it shorts out and blows fuse. We replace water heater. Everything was fine until we got ready to use camper
My water is hot, but not reaching or flowing to the faucet.
Me tooo ever find the issue?
Same here
My heater will not work on propane, the ignitor has good continuity, there is power to the board but it does not have any power to the ignitor . I gather it is the board.
How can you make the water hoter
Yes !!! Great video 2021 Winnie micro ... first trip no worky? Has or electric
Did you get it going, or still need help?
The Savvy Campers ! Hey just got back from first trip . At home before we left? Could not ignite with power with electric from home . Did Propane it started .. got to camp started with gas and was fine until next day ? Would not turn on ! Plenty of propane breaker on , also tried to use generator... won’t come on .
@thesavycampers I have a similar rig (2021 Micro). We’ve had it for about six months and when we got out to the campsite last weekend, the water heater wouldn’t work with gas or electric. Will the igniter continually click when the water heater is turned on propane like it did in the video? Ours does not currently. Thanks for the video!
Garret McElveny it was the diode? That clear tube ? By pass it and see if it will turn on . Just don’t run it like that long .. just to test
Nice job
I have a problem with my water heater not turning on and the harness that is connected to the pc is burned, I have replaced the harness 2 times and the same thing happens, do you think the problem is the pc?
Take your board out and see if a dealer will test it for free for you.
My problem is it won't shut off. Keeps running I have to manually shut it off myself.
I checked and pushed the reset seems they were OK. I don't know where to go from here
If on propane/DC CHECK YOUR FUSE/S FIRST, Just as you would your AC Circuit breakers 1st on "shore power"
Ok found the problem it has extra switches by the door I'm assuming for storage.
2020 airstream classic water heater not working
Mine is not even clicking.... New battery & new circuit board what next please ?
Good video. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
What is the dsi light is a steady light?
You need to view how the dual propane regulators actually work. It does not matter what direction you put the lever to determine what tank is online. It is ONLY for the fill meter. The online tank will always be the first tank valve that is turned on first. To prove this, turn your lever to one side, say curb side, then go turn off the curbside tank valve. The regulator auto switches to the roadside tank no matter the position of the regulator lever. Placing the lever halfway is just ridiculous.
Which brand hot weather was this in the video? I have the same one but all stickers are warn off.
Looks like it could be a Domedic GCH6A-10E
Can't send the picture I'm going to tape them on as we use the motorhome a lot for camping and dog shows and when people come over to visit.
good tips thanks
No problem!
I don't have a hot water breaker or a fuse for the hot water heater it's a 2012 pioneer not like it's extremely old I don't understand why it doesn't anybody have any information would be greatly appreciated thank you
Anybody have an idea why my off/on switch does not even illuminate when turned on? It's propane and is one month old. It just stopped and makes no click or anything when I turn the switch on.
Hi when running on propane it only stays on for a few minutes recently,works fine on electricity.
Try cleaning off your flame sensor, will look like a probe that is mounted into the flame.
This was the exact problem I had with mine and it ended up being the control board. If cleaning the sensor doesn't work, take your control board off and to a service center to test for you.
Hope you get it running, let me know what you end up finding out.
Great heads up
My water is hot but the water is coming out of the back when my daughter takes a shower. Then it stops. I’ve tried to get a remote tech and I have the money but nobody shows up. I’m full time and it’s too much to take to dealership.
my water isn't heating up. everything turns on but the water isn't heating.. HELP
I have a flame, it heats for a second, but then cold water only
Them are not heating elements in the front. It has one heating element in the back. Them 2 round things in the front are thermal disks. Or what ever. I here like a temperature sensor. I just replaced my heating element and them disks. Did not fix my problem my control bord buzzing and have the falt light if I run ether one. But my gas turns one but won't turn off.
Yes, you are correct, I misspoke in the hustle of filming. The element is on the rear of the water heater.
How to replace hot water threomstate
What if i just had my burn thermal resistor. Reaplaced because of a load boom and it scared the mess out of me now it happened again last so we called the guy back he said i may need a new regulator any advice? New to rv
So where is the element?
What happens if your carbon monoxide sense goes off everytime you turn on propane for water heater?
You probably have a propane leak somewhere in your propane connection at the water heater. Try using some soapy water sprayed on your fittings to search for it.
incorrect description of electric heating element location, the thermostats are not the element (wich is located on rear of tank ,
HAHA HE DONT KNOW ALL HE SHOULD ABOUT HIS RV
Thanks for pointing that out Rich, yes, you are correct, on our model the heating element is on the rear.
What is considered the "rear" of the tank?
Would that be the opposite side to the one we were just looking at in the video (meaning, the side Inside the RV/Travel Trailer?)
Thanks in advance for your reply. I bought a used trailer and am trying to figure this all out.
Sidenote: I'm a home improvement contractor and own (and maintain) my 33' cabin cruiser (boat). I can fix things, I'm just not familiar with RV systems and appliances yet.
@@gellotion Yes, the rear of the tank would be accessed from inside the RV. It should be behind a panel directly behind where the heater is located on the outside. Hope you are able to troubleshoot it.
@@TheSavvyCampers I appreciate your reply and have some more info to share... there's a thermal diode on the brown wire closest to the control panel. It works similar to a fuse... it burns out and breaks the circuit, shutting off the water heater and preventing it from restarting. It's a safety measure in case the ambient temperature gets too hot in that area, to protect against fire spreading.
I found this out on another trouble shooting video, and it solved my problem. I see you have the same diode on your heater. The replacement was about $30 at Camping World, for a new wire and 2 diodes...one to install and one to keep on board for backup.
Took it to the dealer for them to test it for free, then bought one online! Dealers may not be around much longer if that continues.
Water is running out of what appears to be some type of spicke
what type of water heater is this? mine is just like it..
That looks like it’s an Attwood. I have the same one.
Me too, Atwoods are garbage.
What no gas valve tech tipssss
The hot water heater does not heat the water very hot
The water heater is a 2003 Rampage
Help, I have a water heater
Water heater gets hot but water still cones out cold
Rv not grounded well
It's getting hot water outside but not on the inside
👍
Too much verbiage! How to cram 2 minutes into 8 + minutes.
Dude it's Chris pratt
THIS is why you should never buy appliances with any type of circuit board.
Hah! Good luck with that. Practically every appliance in the last 50 years has a circuit board somewhere.
@@kentshook3840 My Sub Zero does not, nor does my stove, water softener or dishwasher.
@@trustme7731 I guarantee they do. If you disagree, throw some model numbers up here.
Hopefully no one goes by your information a lot of it was wrong
Then provide correct info. Be helpful not just critical mate
Don't listen to this guy he calls the hi lo, thermostats heating elements
7
Of no value
Spend 8 minutes and didn't really say anything