SIMPLE INEXPENSIVE FIX if your Atwood/Dometic water heater isn't working on electric or gas & if it's not the board that went bad (which would be a far more expensive fix).
My thermal switch was not bad, but in checking it I found that the wire on the other side of the thermostat was disconnected. Thanks for your video. It helped me understand the system and consequently found the loose connection.
I have an Attwood GE16EXT combo GAS/Electric water heater. I believe there is a design problem on the controller board that causes infant mortality (some might call it a retroactive abortion) of the PCB's transistor that sends 12VDC to energize the Relay mounted behind the heater that sends 120VAC to the heating element. I have had to replace the potted controller TWICE in a 3-year period because the yellow wire was not getting energized. Otherwise, a $0.25 transistor is all that would be necessary. The Propane portion of the heater was working. It is good engineering practice to add a DIODE (1N4001) to clamp the back EMF produced when the relay is deenergized. I soldered the Cathode to the yellow wire and the Anode to the Green wire in position #6 of the connector. This way the new controller's transistor will not be damaged in the future. The PCB's relay that sends power to the Gas Valve may very well have a similar issue but there is no way to add a protection diode due to the potting compound.
I haven’t even had my new camper two weeks and used the hot water maybe 5 times. Today no ignition and electric hot water wouldn’t work either. Removed the thermal fuse plugged it right into the board and everything is working perfect again. Ordered a pack on Amazon should be here next week. Until Then I bypassed it
By now I can be a technician from all I've replaced and researched about this. And after all I've done to this stinking water heater replacing all the working parts ..the electric heating element was slimed up on the inside of the tank. All it needed was cleaned up.🤬 Cleaned it, put it back in and now it's working again. So I'm now an expert on Atwood water heaters whether I like it or not...
Have the same issue. Water heater is only 6 mo. old used 2 times and Quit 2nd day on a week long trip. So far everything has power and no fuses blown so i will do that test next. What volt meter do you use? I like the one you have. Best video I've seen on this issue.
So my water heater wasn’t working for the 3 months I’ve been set up, the indoors switches would be on and the water would be cold. Last night I accidentally flipped some breakers and put them back on, and now there is hot water running but the switches inside the tv aren’t set to on
You just have to love a company that manufactures a water heater that has T&P ABOVE the propane regulator/inlet tube... knowing it will eventually leak directly onto the assembly. This little drip fouls the controls on the propane regulator, drips on the wiring and fuse, etc., etc, - so stupid of a design a Kindergartener could do a better design...why am I saying all of this? Because the drip fouled out the propane regulator on the Jayco Jayflight LOFT that we have... between the manufacturer and parts suppliers - none of these RV's are worth what we are all baring the price we are paying for them...
Hi great video I have a question My Rv Coleman lantern has the same system but my has has switch inside the main control board Just flip the gas on and Turns right on but this time pilot kicks in but won’t stay in just dies any suggestions
@@Mendoza_Jim could be your igniter/flame sensor is dirty. It’s getting ignition but not sensing the flame and sending a signal back to the board. Try cleaning the igniter.
I have this exact problem and I changed both the thermostat and the link and I still have no 12 VDC anywhere. The circuit breaker is working just fine.There is no spark or sound of the gas valve solenoid actuating.. Although I doubt very seriously that the problem is the circuit board I ordered a new one today to replace the existing board.I turned the remote switch on and the blue fault light comes on in the switch. But in my setup I believe that that is the proper operating state of the circuit. I believe that when I tested the circuit last year that blue light remained on as the igniter and the heater fired up. It was the same with the electric side the blue light stayed on during normal operation. So I can't I imagine what is wrong. This entire things started when the electric side stopped working.I pulled the switch/control panel inside the Motorhome.and could not find 12 VDC there either. The control panel control device shows that there is a full 13.4 VDC to the panel. I just can't find it where it's supposed to be in the water heater circuits elsewhere on the this circuit. I've checked everything that I could figure out from the wiring diagram for the water heater..We've had rat problems this past summer and I'm suspicious that they gnawed through the wiring. Because it was all of a sudden that both the electric and gas sides of the heater went out. HELP? My name is Reggie. Although I'm not an RV tech, I've been a tech for all of my working career, either on Jet aircraft, or electronic equipment, or home maintenance issues. I've downloaded all of the manuals both on my phone and my desktop that I could find from the internet, and done what they indicated without achieving a successful result. This video is the closest thing to the problem that I have with the exception of the results that you achieved. Again, I have no power whatsoever at the heater, zero.
Check the status of the electric heating element/anode on your water heater. I was having the same problem. My heater element was slimy. Cleaning it up and put it back and fixed the electrical part. The E.C.O. thermostat was my problem with the propane part. Just a thought.
Hi there. I have a 1988 American Appliance brand 6 gallon hot water heater that won’t fire up on gas or electric. Would the fix you showed in this video possibly fix mine, or could you please point to a video about my brand specifically? Thanks in advance and sure appreciate all the knowledge you’re sharing!!!
First off, what a great run for that water heater! 35 years? Wow! American was bought by Suburban which is different manufacturer than the one from the video. Without being there to diagnose your water heater, it’s hard to say what may be wrong. You can still get some Parts for these units but you would have to reach out to Suburban directly to cross reference. Wish we could be more helpful!
ran the multi-meter on my thermal fuse, as i guesses b4 i watched this video, sure it enough, it tested bad. although you said NOT to do the by-pass to get it working ?, i did hook the wire straight to the thermstat board, just to see if it was indeed the fuse ?, sure enough, i turned the water heater switch on, within 3 sec's it lit the water heater as normal, guess these fuses are cheap crap from china ?, my hot water heater has not been ran much at all ! ( 2015 camper ), and now i went on a weekend trip, come to find out the water heater would not light at all. checked all the fuses cept the thermal fuse outside like you did in this video, sure enough, it tested bad. JUST TO BE SURE ?!..i hooked the wire straight to the thermastat ( yes..i know you said do not do it ?, but i wanted to be 100% sure it was just this fuse ), sure enough, the water heater worked like it was suppose to do will be headed to rv place to grab some extra fuses !!. great video !!!.
The red on / off light inside the the motorhome doesnt come on qhen pushing the switch to turn on hotwater and the gas wont light outside. I checked fuses next to the breakers. All good. The safety thermal wire at waterheater is good. What do i do next ?
@@slimjohn2090sounds like a power issue. there are also two disc fuses that are attached to the tank behind the black rectangle. One usually says Tstat and one says eco. If you can’t figure it out, You may want to call a tech. Myrvresource.com or RVTAA.org.
Hello, great video! I can hear my Atwood sparking to fire but then I hear a boom and see blue flames coming out of the vent. Sometimes my hot water heater fires just fine but seems like it's inconsistent. The loud boom with the blue flames coming out of the vent tells me maybe my igniter is going bad. Please help!
Thermocoupler, igniter test perfectly, still tries to ignite 3 times, blows the fuse. Neither gas nor electric will ignite. Parts replaced, still the same .
@@davidemerson1233 no you can’t. The igniter has a flame sensor on it. You can try removing and cleaning the igniter/flame sensor. Can also try to clean your gas supply tube.
I know you said not to run the unit without the thermal switch but can you remove it then plug straight in just to see if the switch is bad if I don’t have a meter to check the switch?
We have a 2019 jayco north point. We just replaced our thermal fuse a month ago and it’s been working great since we replaced it. Now it won’t light or tick at all. Tried a new replacement fuse and nothing. Not sure what else could be wrong. There’s a brown wire that connects to the thermal fuse. Could that have gone out?
@@Maddielove2468 Use a mulitmeter to check for continuity on the thermostat or ECO. If you don't have one, you can order one from Amazon (our affiliate link) here: amzn.to/45U9K4u. There's no real way to check the board though.You have to follow the flow of power to see where it's going bad. Also, Keep in mind that there's a chance that the thermal fuse, although new, could have gone bad again.
If it is trying to ignite at the water heater on gas but is not, it could be an igniter/flame sense issue, not enough spark to ignite. Could also be a gas delivery issue. Check your propane tank, also check to see if you smell gas when the heater is trying to light. If you need a tech go to the RVTAA.org
Hi my Atwood water heat in my class A will not keep the water hot. It kicks on runs a while then stops working. Do you have any suggestions. I did take some of the connections lose and cleaned them. Thanks
I replaced the thermal switch and the motherboard twice. The gas unit will start and then extinguishes after several seconds. It repeats this three times and then shuts down. What are the next steps in trouble shooting the problem? The unit is a new one on a 21 nexus rebel.
Could be one of a few items. My first inclination would be you have a faulty igniter/flame sense. Reads for a minute or two then tells the board there is no flame. Could also be a faulty temp switch or eco. You need to check those with your multimeter. That’s the areas I would start. But first clean your igniter with some light sandpaper or scotch bright and see how it goes. If you need a tech, head to the RVTAA.org to find one near you.
There's a relay next to the water heater element that you have to check. You check for power there and at the water heater element by setting your volt meter to AC. You're looking for 120v AC.
My Atwood gch10a-4k doesn’t heat my water in electric or gas mode. The gas comes on for a second and then shuts off. After two cycles it won’t come on anymore. Is the fuse the same issue for me?
No. If it was the fuse, it wouldn’t ignite at all. Sounds like you have an ECO (emergency cut off) issue, a thermostat issue or a bad board. Hard to know without being there. You’d need to put a volt ohm meter on it to check for both 12 volt DC and 120 volt AC. Follow the electric from beginning to end.
If electric doesn’t work, it could be the electric relay in the back, it could be a circuit breaker in your circuit breaker box, it could be a loose wire, it could be a bad electric element, or even a faulty switch. You have to follow the power with your volt ohm meter.
1. Factory preset on an Atwood is 140 degrees and that setting is non-adjustable. The emergency cut-off for an Atwood is 180 degress, so as long as that temperature is between 140-179 degrees, it's operating at normal range with no way to adjust it down. 2. Pressure relief valve - did you just replace it or has it been a while? Minerals can get in there even after a month. Did you do a thorough cleaning of the tank before installing the valve? Hard water can stick those open, but it is possible that you have a defective new valve. You can try tapping the end of it to see if it reseats. Hard to say more than that without being there. You can find a qualified tech near you at RVTAA.org.
You have to hold one end with a pair of needle nose pliers and then pull the other end with another pair of needle nose pliers to separate it at the connectors. Do that for both ends. Good luck.
Your start following the flow of electricity. Do you have power at the element (check with multimeter)? If yes, do you have good resistance at the element? If it’s not the element where the problem is, it could be a bad relay or a faulty board at the 120v side.
Why is my water 💦 heater putting of a smut it did not do this before I cleaned it it had a blown fuse link that comes from the board so I bye passed it and it worked but I did notice more shutting then it was before
@@suehussell2092 Has it ever worked on electricity? If so, check your breaker, did it pop? Make sure your switch on the back of the water heater or at the control panel is on. If all those are on, you may have a faulty relay or bad heating element. You need a multi meter to check both. Start with the electric element first.
These are a louse product for over 4 hundred dollars I EXPECT TROUBLE FREE SERVICE FOR LONGER THAN 2 YEARS. I live full time in an rv and it's a never ending problem after another. Bought it for over 35 thousand and invested an additional 20 thousand into it and the fucking thing still doesn't run correctly!
My water heater turns on. I can hear and feel the water filling as well as heating. Once I cleaned the grime off the thermal fuse and turned it on inside the camper, the flame lit. BUT, still no hot water flow from faucets. Bypass valve is turned. I also noticed smoke coming from the water heater vent that smells of propane. The flame went out after 10 minutes, maybe. Now, I can’t get it to light again. Any idea what these issues could be?
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Thank you so much for this video, I've been going nuts trying to figure this out and then I'm like "No way, that's it" lol.
Great video and information. This was exactly what my problem was. I would have been chasing my tail for a while if I hadn't come across this.
One of the better videos. Simple part. After getting light, I went to work with the shop vac.
Thanks for the feedback!
Great video Drew... thanks for the straight forward and easy-to-understand video!
Thanks for watching!
My thermal switch was not bad, but in checking it I found that the wire on the other side of the thermostat was disconnected. Thanks for your video. It helped me understand the system and consequently found the loose connection.
Glad it helped and that you ended up resolving your issue!
Really appreciate you making this video! Saved my camping trip.
So glad to hear that!
First world problems hahaha. Camping without hot water, happy wife happy life.
I have an Attwood GE16EXT combo GAS/Electric water heater. I believe there is a design problem on the controller board that causes infant mortality (some might call it a retroactive abortion) of the PCB's transistor that sends 12VDC to energize the Relay mounted behind the heater that sends 120VAC to the heating element. I have had to replace the potted controller TWICE in a 3-year period because the yellow wire was not getting energized. Otherwise, a $0.25 transistor is all that would be necessary. The Propane portion of the heater was working. It is good engineering practice to add a DIODE (1N4001) to clamp the back EMF produced when the relay is deenergized. I soldered the Cathode to the yellow wire and the Anode to the Green wire in position #6 of the connector. This way the new controller's transistor will not be damaged in the future. The PCB's relay that sends power to the Gas Valve may very well have a similar issue but there is no way to add a protection diode due to the potting compound.
Thanks I'm headed to get 2 now, I feel pretty lucky this is the first time and I've lived in mine full time since 2017
This is the fix for my 2018 flying house home. Thanks for your help
Exactly the solution I needed. Thanks for the helpful video!
Great! Glad to hear that.
I haven’t even had my new camper two weeks and used the hot water maybe 5 times. Today no ignition and electric hot water wouldn’t work either. Removed the thermal fuse plugged it right into the board and everything is working perfect again. Ordered a pack on Amazon should be here next week. Until
Then I bypassed it
By now I can be a technician from all I've replaced and researched about this. And after all I've done to this stinking water heater replacing all the working parts ..the electric heating element was slimed up on the inside of the tank. All it needed was cleaned up.🤬 Cleaned it, put it back in and now it's working again. So I'm now an expert on Atwood water heaters whether I like it or not...
Have the same issue. Water heater is only 6 mo. old used 2 times and Quit 2nd day on a week long trip. So far everything has power and no fuses blown so i will do that test next. What volt meter do you use? I like the one you have. Best video I've seen on this issue.
Thank you for the video. I just fixed mine!
Awesome! 😎
Thanks, I'm tired of cold showers. Just bought this RV and couldn't figure it out.
So my water heater wasn’t working for the 3 months I’ve been set up, the indoors switches would be on and the water would be cold. Last night I accidentally flipped some breakers and put them back on, and now there is hot water running but the switches inside the tv aren’t set to on
@@marstar4220 sounds like you turned on your electric heating element. Not sure why your internal switches aren’t working.
Great video, did you get certified at the NRVTA ? If you did, do you recommend them ?
Yes I did and Yes I do! One of the best decisions I've ever made! The training and the post grad community is second to none!
@@missionrvservices
Thank you for your response
You just have to love a company that manufactures a water heater that has T&P ABOVE the propane regulator/inlet tube... knowing it will eventually leak directly onto the assembly. This little drip fouls the controls on the propane regulator, drips on the wiring and fuse, etc., etc, - so stupid of a design a Kindergartener could do a better design...why am I saying all of this? Because the drip fouled out the propane regulator on the Jayco Jayflight LOFT that we have... between the manufacturer and parts suppliers - none of these RV's are worth what we are all baring the price we are paying for them...
Another outstanding tip!
Hi great video
I have a question
My Rv Coleman lantern has the same system but my has has switch inside the main control board
Just flip the gas on and Turns right on but this time pilot kicks in but won’t stay in just dies any suggestions
@@Mendoza_Jim could be your igniter/flame sensor is dirty. It’s getting ignition but not sensing the flame and sending a signal back to the board. Try cleaning the igniter.
I have this exact problem and I changed both the thermostat and the link and I still have no 12 VDC anywhere. The circuit breaker is working just fine.There is no spark or sound of the gas valve solenoid actuating.. Although I doubt very seriously that the problem is the circuit board I ordered a new one today to replace the existing board.I turned the remote switch on and the blue fault light comes on in the switch. But in my setup I believe that that is the proper operating state of the circuit. I believe that when I tested the circuit last year that blue light remained on as the igniter and the heater fired up. It was the same with the electric side the blue light stayed on during normal operation. So I can't I imagine what is wrong. This entire things started when the electric side stopped working.I pulled the switch/control panel inside the Motorhome.and could not find 12 VDC there either. The control panel control device shows that there is a full 13.4 VDC to the panel. I just can't find it where it's supposed to be in the water heater circuits elsewhere on the this circuit. I've checked everything that I could figure out from the wiring diagram for the water heater..We've had rat problems this past summer and I'm suspicious that they gnawed through the wiring. Because it was all of a sudden that both the electric and gas sides of the heater went out. HELP? My name is Reggie. Although I'm not an RV tech, I've been a tech for all of my working career, either on Jet aircraft, or electronic equipment, or home maintenance issues. I've downloaded all of the manuals both on my phone and my desktop that I could find from the internet, and done what they indicated without achieving a successful result. This video is the closest thing to the problem that I have with the exception of the results that you achieved. Again, I have no power whatsoever at the heater, zero.
Check the status of the electric heating element/anode on your water heater. I was having the same problem. My heater element was slimy. Cleaning it up and put it back and fixed the electrical part. The E.C.O. thermostat was my problem with the propane part. Just a thought.
Hi there. I have a 1988 American Appliance brand 6 gallon hot water heater that won’t fire up on gas or electric. Would the fix you showed in this video possibly fix mine, or could you please point to a video about my brand specifically? Thanks in advance and sure appreciate all the knowledge you’re sharing!!!
First off, what a great run for that water heater! 35 years? Wow!
American was bought by Suburban which is different manufacturer than the one from the video. Without being there to diagnose your water heater, it’s hard to say what may be wrong. You can still get some
Parts for these units but you would have to reach out to Suburban directly to cross reference. Wish we could be more helpful!
Will i still hear the clicking of the ignitor if this is the problem or would that be dead also?
Mine is a Surburban heater changed the thermostat still not lighting nor does the light cone on.
I don't see a fuse on mine like the this one?
@@OurBackwoodsHomestead yours is different, as you said, a suburban. You have two fuses, behind the rectangular black piece that says “reset”
ran the multi-meter on my thermal fuse, as i guesses b4 i watched this video, sure it enough, it tested bad. although you said NOT to do the by-pass to get it working ?, i did hook the wire straight to the thermstat board, just to see if it was indeed the fuse ?, sure enough, i turned the water heater switch on, within 3 sec's it lit the water heater as normal, guess these fuses are cheap crap from china ?, my hot water heater has not been ran much at all ! ( 2015 camper ), and now i went on a weekend trip, come to find out the water heater would not light at all. checked all the fuses cept the thermal fuse outside like you did in this video, sure enough, it tested bad. JUST TO BE SURE ?!..i hooked the wire straight to the thermastat ( yes..i know you said do not do it ?, but i wanted to be 100% sure it was just this fuse ), sure enough, the water heater worked like it was suppose to do will be headed to rv place to grab some extra fuses !!. great video !!!.
Thanks for the feedback!
The red on / off light inside the the motorhome doesnt come on qhen pushing the switch to turn on hotwater and the gas wont light outside. I checked fuses next to the breakers. All good. The safety thermal wire at waterheater is good. What do i do next ?
@@slimjohn2090sounds like a power issue. there are also two disc fuses that are attached to the tank behind the black rectangle. One usually says Tstat and one says eco. If you can’t figure it out, You may want to call a tech. Myrvresource.com or RVTAA.org.
Ended up being a 2amp mini fuse at the wh circuit board. Brown fuse
Hello, great video! I can hear my Atwood sparking to fire but then I hear a boom and see blue flames coming out of the vent. Sometimes my hot water heater fires just fine but seems like it's inconsistent. The loud boom with the blue flames coming out of the vent tells me maybe my igniter is going bad. Please help!
Sounds like you may have a blockage in your flue tube or in your gas supply tube.
Thanks. i have a 2015 grand design 5th wheel electric will not turn on to heat water gas works great. What do you think could be the problem?
Could be a bad board or temperature sensor or a bad ECO switch or as simple as a bad water heater element.
The thermal fuse will blows a few minutes after turning the hot water on; I’ve replaced two so far
Thanks for info but my 2amp fuse on the solid state board keeps blowing any suggestions?
Unfortunately it sounds like you have a bad board 😞
Thermocoupler, igniter test perfectly, still tries to ignite 3 times, blows the fuse.
Neither gas nor electric will ignite.
Parts replaced, still the same .
Can u stick a bic lighter in there to get it going? It tries 3 times then I get the flt light. I can smell gas…
@@davidemerson1233 no you can’t. The igniter has a flame sensor on it. You can try removing and cleaning the igniter/flame sensor. Can also try to clean your gas supply tube.
I have continuity threw my Thermo switch! what next please
@@KennethSmith-kk1tb
may have a bad board
I know you said not to run the unit without the thermal switch but can you remove it then plug straight in just to see if the switch is bad if I don’t have a meter to check the switch?
Though you could check it that way We can’t recommend that you check it that way, since we don’t know what caused it to fail.
Guess I need to get a mobile repair guy out here to check things out. Mine isn’t working on gas or electric
@@33Bigdogyears could be a board or a thermostat issue. RVTAA.org has a tech locator for your area.
Thank you this is good to know
This thermo switch works like a fusible link?
Yes
We have a 2019 jayco north point. We just replaced our thermal fuse a month ago and it’s been working great since we replaced it. Now it won’t light or tick at all. Tried a new replacement fuse and nothing. Not sure what else could be wrong. There’s a brown wire that connects to the thermal fuse. Could that have gone out?
Could be that the igniter is bad. Could be a bad thermostat or bad ECO (Emergency Cut Off) which is right by the thermal fuse.
@@missionrvservices thank you. How can I figure out what part has gone bad without replacing everything. Either ignition or electrical board?
@@Maddielove2468 Use a mulitmeter to check for continuity on the thermostat or ECO. If you don't have one, you can order one from Amazon (our affiliate link) here: amzn.to/45U9K4u. There's no real way to check the board though.You have to follow the flow of power to see where it's going bad. Also, Keep in mind that there's a chance that the thermal fuse, although new, could have gone bad again.
In case you need a tech to come out, visit RVTAA.org and put in your city to find a certified tech in the area.
Drew I have the same Atwood water heater in my Discovery 40E...My electric heat is working and the gas is not working...any ideas?
If it is trying to ignite at the water heater on gas but is not, it could be an igniter/flame sense issue, not enough spark to ignite. Could also be a gas delivery issue. Check your propane tank, also check to see if you smell gas when the heater is trying to light. If you need a tech go to the RVTAA.org
Is there supposed to be water in the pipe that ignites??
@@kat2533 no.
@@missionrvservices and if there is?
Short and simple.
do these water heater switch off when it gets to hot temp
@@mychannelsirr yes
Thank you !!!!
Hi my Atwood water heat in my class A will not keep the water hot. It kicks on runs a while then stops working. Do you have any suggestions. I did take some of the connections lose and cleaned them. Thanks
Are you getting any hot water? Is it hot then goes cold quickly?
Bad thermocouple
Yes it fills up the bath sink and then goes cold.
I replaced the thermal switch and the motherboard twice. The gas unit will start and then extinguishes after several seconds. It repeats this three times and then shuts down. What are the next steps in trouble shooting the problem? The unit is a new one on a 21 nexus rebel.
Sounds like a bad thermal couple/igniter. Sounds like it’s not sensing the flame.
Great Advice
Thanks for watching!
Thanks you are very kind
Thanks for watching!
I have an Atwood water heater, it turns on for 3 minutes and then turns off. What do you think the problem is?
Could be one of a few items. My first inclination would be you have a faulty igniter/flame sense. Reads for a minute or two then tells the board there is no flame. Could also be a faulty temp switch or eco. You need to check those with your multimeter. That’s the areas I would start. But first clean your igniter with some light sandpaper or scotch bright and see how it goes. If you need a tech, head to the RVTAA.org to find one near you.
How can I test the switch so I know if electric is getting power to board
There's a relay next to the water heater element that you have to check. You check for power there and at the water heater element by setting your volt meter to AC. You're looking for 120v AC.
My Atwood gch10a-4k doesn’t heat my water in electric or gas mode. The gas comes on for a second and then shuts off. After two cycles it won’t come on anymore. Is the fuse the same issue for me?
No. If it was the fuse, it wouldn’t ignite at all. Sounds like you have an ECO (emergency cut off) issue, a thermostat issue or a bad board. Hard to know without being there. You’d need to put a volt ohm meter on it to check for both 12 volt DC and 120 volt AC. Follow the electric from beginning to end.
So my heater/fire tube is igniting but not getting any hot water to the shower.
Are you getting hot water to anywhere else?
My ford Motorhome water heater won’t turn on , it’s just clicked when I press the switch on then it’s stopped in 5 sec .
@@henryofcanada sounds like an igniter/flame sensor failure. May need a new one.
If the propane works, but electric doesn’t- will it be another problem then?
If electric doesn’t work, it could be the electric relay in the back, it could be a circuit breaker in your circuit breaker box, it could be a loose wire, it could be a bad electric element, or even a faulty switch. You have to follow the power with your volt ohm meter.
If you need a tech, to find one in your area, go to MyRvResource.com
my atwood water heater is runing at about 170 deg. how can i turn temp down .also the presure relief valve is dripping even the new replacement one
1. Factory preset on an Atwood is 140 degrees and that setting is non-adjustable. The emergency cut-off for an Atwood is 180 degress, so as long as that temperature is between 140-179 degrees, it's operating at normal range with no way to adjust it down. 2. Pressure relief valve - did you just replace it or has it been a while? Minerals can get in there even after a month. Did you do a thorough cleaning of the tank before installing the valve? Hard water can stick those open, but it is possible that you have a defective new valve. You can try tapping the end of it to see if it reseats. Hard to say more than that without being there. You can find a qualified tech near you at RVTAA.org.
I replaced the thermal switch and I hear a bussing sound and the tick tick sound. Then the flame comeson and then goes out! ???????
@@vincentsaunders8935 sounds like it may be a bad igniter/flame sensor.
Where do I get the thermal switch?
amzn.to/4a7Xyzl
I can't remove the thermal cutoff fuse. How hard do I need to pull?
You have to hold one end with a pair of needle nose pliers and then pull the other end with another pair of needle nose pliers to separate it at the connectors. Do that for both ends. Good luck.
Are you located in Australia by any chance?
No sir. Haven’t been there yet!
My gas fire lights but goes out after 5-10 seconds. Also no electric water heater. Any suggestions??
Possible bad ignitor/thermocouple
What about when gas is working-but electricity is not?
Your start following the flow of electricity. Do you have power at the element (check with multimeter)? If yes, do you have good resistance at the element? If it’s not the element where the problem is, it could be a bad relay or a faulty board at the 120v side.
Why is my water 💦 heater putting of a smut it did not do this before I cleaned it it had a blown fuse link that comes from the board so I bye passed it and it worked but I did notice more shutting then it was before
Not sure what “smut” is. Maybe there is something in the burn tube. Spider webs? Acorns? Dauber nests? Bugs?
My Atwood water heater does work on electricity
Does not
@@suehussell2092
Has it ever worked on electricity?
If so, check your breaker, did it pop?
Make sure your switch on the back of the water heater or at the control panel is on.
If all those are on, you may have a faulty relay or bad heating element. You need a multi meter to check both. Start with the electric element first.
These are a louse product for over 4 hundred dollars I EXPECT TROUBLE FREE SERVICE FOR LONGER THAN 2 YEARS. I live full time in an rv and it's a never ending problem after another. Bought it for over 35 thousand and invested an additional 20 thousand into it and the fucking thing still doesn't run correctly!
flame is not blue. it needs to be blue. something important that should be noted. and your are not back in business.
I can't even find my remote switch.........
@@RCCRAWL-q7g if you have an Atwood/Dometic, it’s on your panel or behind your water heater.
My water heater turns on. I can hear and feel the water filling as well as heating. Once I cleaned the grime off the thermal fuse and turned it on inside the camper, the flame lit. BUT, still no hot water flow from faucets. Bypass valve is turned. I also noticed smoke coming from the water heater vent that smells of propane. The flame went out after 10 minutes, maybe. Now, I can’t get it to light again. Any idea what these issues could be?
@@TinaFinicum sounds like you have a blockage in the heating tube. Maybe a nest.
@@missionrvservices It lit then wen out. it was already cleaned of dobbers & debri in the tube, vent, and & flame cavern. I’m still working on it.
@@TinaFinicum could try a new board. Don’t think it’s the ignore or flame sensor or it wouldn’t last 10 minutes once you got it lit.