This series was fantastic for catching back up and re-learning things I've forgotten in the eight years since I've touched my project car. I appreciate this a lot.
You need to invest in getting this channel known. Very good content. Not many jokes but gets to the point. This is way better and informative than many other known channels. Outstanding!!
Jorge that was very welcome feedback to hear. I appreciate the comments and encouragement. The channel is hopefully becoming its own thing as it and I evolve. My goal is to try and provide a perspective if you were in the room with me.
Thanks - great series! Here are the part numbers - in case anyone needs them: MD326059 VALVE TIMING BELT MD182537 PULLEYTIMING BELT TENS MD308086 TIMING BELT ADJUSTER MD156604 PULLEYTIMING BELT IDLER MD352473 Balance shaft tensioner MD182295/MR984778 Balance shaft belt MD189130/MD300587 P/S BELT MB568898 A/C BELT MD355002 ALTERNATOR & BELT MD972050 WATERPUMP MD030764 WATER PIPE O-RING 32
Great videos. Thank you! I did everything as you did for my timing belt and now lost spark. It ran perfectly before I did the belt. I changed the coil pack and the crank sensor and still have no spark. Any thoughts of why I would lose spark other than coil pack/sensor would be greatly appreciated.
That is strange. Are you saying when you pull a plug and turn it over there is no spark at all? If so, then I don’t see how it would be related to the timing belt side. Always start simple with checking the fuses and connectors, then what you did which is the coil and crank/cam sensor.
I just did my belt on my 2g dsm all timing marks r in the spot but has little vacuum leak it sounds like but all vacuum lines r good I wonder if I should try adjusting that cam angle sensor
Something interesting I saw on Throtl was the installation of the shifter cables in a timelapse. I thought would be a nice topic to go over the shifter system and parts.
Each engine is different on how it reacts to removing it. I find it isn’t too bad in any I have done, but only do it if your goals involve maximizing power output. For purely stock levels I wouldn’t remove it.
Hello! I found this guide really usefull! However, I have one question to you, because I believe it was not covered in this video. After installing the tensioner with the pin in, and bolting the tensioner pulley are you adjusting the required tension with the "special tool" or you are doing it with pulley itself? I watched bunch of videos of people applying tension to the belt via the pulley and then just clarify it is in spec when the pin can easily go in and out. But in your video there is the "special tool" already in and I seems not the understand are you setting the tension via the special tool? Hope it makes sense... Thanks!
I have done a few methods in the past. I don’t trust the pin method as I find the best method is to place the tensioner pulley where the holes for the special tool are almost at the 12:00 position. The pin method may get you close too, but doesn’t guarantee it is in spec. That is a pretty good starting point. Then I release the tension tool, turn it some revolutions, and then measure the gap (using right sized drill bits as a measurement device) to see if it is in spec. That gap for the auto tensioner is the most important thing to get right. I am pretty ocd on having it within spec so all other methods are really to get it in the ballpark, but always check this spec. If it is out then adjust appropriately, rotate, measure again. Take your time as you want this setup right. I hope it wasn’t too confusing what I did. If you are referring to the special tool as the rod that relieves the tension then I have that in when moving the tension pulley to make it easy to do so. Then remove or loosen it to check when full tension is in to check the spec.
@@SlippingTime Thanks for the prompt reply! Really appreciate it. I am DIY-er and will attend changing hydraulic tension on my 4G69. There is knocking noice around 1100,1200rpms when engine is on idle, due to not properly previously set tension on the belt via the tensioner and now the tensioner is compromised.. The arm which holding the pulley has slight play and knocks in the tensioner and when you give it a rev it is normal because it is streching the belt. One more question regarding my issue, maybe you can give an advice... If the tensioner is compromised, like mine and the tensioner pulley is holding the belt in place and in tension (even not in spec) is there are chance for fail. I am totally aware that too much pressure on the belt can cause high temp. on the belt and stuff like that, but in general is it dangerous?
Without seeing/hearing it is hard to diagnose. When in doubt then go with the side of caution. I also recommend whenever doing the timing belt on higher millage cars to also change the pulleys saw well. Best to do it right for peace of mind later.
@@SlippingTime Sorry to continue bother you but I was hoping to find the same one you have. They don't have the mid section and yours look like a two piece instead of the factory three piece.
This series was fantastic for catching back up and re-learning things I've forgotten in the eight years since I've touched my project car. I appreciate this a lot.
Thanks for filming this series. It is a huge help.
I am always happy to hear it had value for someone out there.
You need to invest in getting this channel known. Very good content. Not many jokes but gets to the point. This is way better and informative than many other known channels. Outstanding!!
Jorge that was very welcome feedback to hear. I appreciate the comments and encouragement. The channel is hopefully becoming its own thing as it and I evolve. My goal is to try and provide a perspective if you were in the room with me.
@@SlippingTime goal achieved!
@@jorgeirizarry5971♥️
I was today years old when I actually understood the timing light settings.👍
Very cool to hear it made sense to you. Thanks for tuning in!
Thanks - great series! Here are the part numbers - in case anyone needs them:
MD326059 VALVE TIMING BELT
MD182537 PULLEYTIMING BELT TENS
MD308086 TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
MD156604 PULLEYTIMING BELT IDLER
MD352473 Balance shaft tensioner
MD182295/MR984778 Balance shaft belt
MD189130/MD300587 P/S BELT
MB568898 A/C BELT
MD355002 ALTERNATOR & BELT
MD972050 WATERPUMP
MD030764 WATER PIPE O-RING 32
Thanks for sharing the part numbers to everyone Radboud.
Best videos Dean
Thank you Avi. Hearing how they benefit you and others makes it all worth it the time in making them.
Great videos. Thank you! I did everything as you did for my timing belt and now lost spark. It ran perfectly before I did the belt. I changed the coil pack and the crank sensor and still have no spark. Any thoughts of why I would lose spark other than coil pack/sensor would be greatly appreciated.
That is strange. Are you saying when you pull a plug and turn it over there is no spark at all? If so, then I don’t see how it would be related to the timing belt side. Always start simple with checking the fuses and connectors, then what you did which is the coil and crank/cam sensor.
I just did my belt on my 2g dsm all timing marks r in the spot but has little vacuum leak it sounds like but all vacuum lines r good I wonder if I should try adjusting that cam angle sensor
Something interesting I saw on Throtl was the installation of the shifter cables in a timelapse. I thought would be a nice topic to go over the shifter system and parts.
Thanks again Saulo for another great idea!
How do you like not having a balance shaft? I’m considering to get rid of mine
Each engine is different on how it reacts to removing it. I find it isn’t too bad in any I have done, but only do it if your goals involve maximizing power output. For purely stock levels I wouldn’t remove it.
@@SlippingTime thank you so much. I’ve read similar opinion in DSM forums, but to me you’re the man! Thanks for your reply
@@Acosta-on7do always happy to help.
Hello! I found this guide really usefull! However, I have one question to you, because I believe it was not covered in this video. After installing the tensioner with the pin in, and bolting the tensioner pulley are you adjusting the required tension with the "special tool" or you are doing it with pulley itself? I watched bunch of videos of people applying tension to the belt via the pulley and then just clarify it is in spec when the pin can easily go in and out. But in your video there is the "special tool" already in and I seems not the understand are you setting the tension via the special tool? Hope it makes sense... Thanks!
I have done a few methods in the past. I don’t trust the pin method as I find the best method is to place the tensioner pulley where the holes for the special tool are almost at the 12:00 position. The pin method may get you close too, but doesn’t guarantee it is in spec. That is a pretty good starting point. Then I release the tension tool, turn it some revolutions, and then measure the gap (using right sized drill bits as a measurement device) to see if it is in spec. That gap for the auto tensioner is the most important thing to get right. I am pretty ocd on having it within spec so all other methods are really to get it in the ballpark, but always check this spec. If it is out then adjust appropriately, rotate, measure again. Take your time as you want this setup right.
I hope it wasn’t too confusing what I did. If you are referring to the special tool as the rod that relieves the tension then I have that in when moving the tension pulley to make it easy to do so. Then remove or loosen it to check when full tension is in to check the spec.
@@SlippingTime Thanks for the prompt reply! Really appreciate it. I am DIY-er and will attend changing hydraulic tension on my 4G69. There is knocking noice around 1100,1200rpms when engine is on idle, due to not properly previously set tension on the belt via the tensioner and now the tensioner is compromised.. The arm which holding the pulley has slight play and knocks in the tensioner and when you give it a rev it is normal because it is streching the belt. One more question regarding my issue, maybe you can give an advice... If the tensioner is compromised, like mine and the tensioner pulley is holding the belt in place and in tension (even not in spec) is there are chance for fail. I am totally aware that too much pressure on the belt can cause high temp. on the belt and stuff like that, but in general is it dangerous?
Without seeing/hearing it is hard to diagnose. When in doubt then go with the side of caution. I also recommend whenever doing the timing belt on higher millage cars to also change the pulleys saw well. Best to do it right for peace of mind later.
Where can I get that timing belt cover? Not just the top but the entire cover
Do you mean the top clear cover and also the bottom grey cover?
@@SlippingTime yes. The entire cover.
@@jorgeirizarry5971 there are a few places that sell them I believe. I usually check with RTMRacing first.
@@SlippingTime Thank you!! Will do.
@@SlippingTime Sorry to continue bother you but I was hoping to find the same one you have. They don't have the mid section and yours look like a two piece instead of the factory three piece.