Honda J Series V6 Timing Belt Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- This video is a complete step by step guide to replacing the timing belt and water pump on a Honda J series V6 engine found in many Honda vehicles including Accords, Odysseys, Ridgelines, Pilots, Acura MDX, Acura TL, and some Acura RL’s. You’ll find a complete listing of the parts and tools I used in the description below.
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This is Episode 8 in the Acura TL Series.
Episode 7: • Honda J Series V6 Ther...
Episode 9: • Honda J Series Power S...
Camera: Brian Kast, Eric Cook
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Links
Torque Specs (not verified): hondaswap.com/t...
Parts
(Water Pump kit I used no longer available)
Similar Timing Belt Kit: www.amazon.com...
Water Pump Part # (2008 Acura TL): 19200-RDV-J01
Honda (blue) Coolant: www.amazon.com...
Engine Mount: www.amazon.com...
Serpentine Belt Tensioner: www.acuraparts...
Tools
Honda Crank Bolt Removal Tool: www.jbtools.co...
Snap-on 12mm 14mm wrench: shop.snapon.co...
Body Clip Removal Tool: www.jbtools.co...
Spill Free Funnel: www.jbtools.co...
Milwaukee 1/4” ratchet: milwaukeetool....
Milwaukee 3/8” Long Ratchet: milwaukeetool....
Related Videos
J Series Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement VManual: www.ericthecar...
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Finding Suspension Noises: • How To Find Suspension...
How To Bleed a Cooling System: • How To Bleed A Cooling...
2008 Acura TL Inspection Video: • 2008 Acura TL Used Car...
2008 Acura TL Repair Series (#ETCGBlackura): • 2008 Acura TL Used Car...
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Stay Dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®.
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I have never seen a more watchable repair video on RUclips. Far more helpful, pleasantly presented and encouraging than any other repair videos I’ve seen. Watched the entire video with rapped attention and I don’t even own a Honda/Acura V6! Thank you for posting this and your other videos.
ETCG is still the best automotive resource on youtube. I bought his video years ago for the earlier J-series engines when I did the timing belt on my 2004 Odyssey and now I need to do this on my 2012 Ody. It's a fantastic guide.
A few additional tips that have helped me with these J series TB jobs over the years:
1. At 41:09 there's is a dot on the crank gear at the 12 o'clock position that lines up with an arrow on the engine block for using a timing mark when the balancer is removed.
2. Before removing the timing belt, paint (nail polish, paint marker, etc.) matching marks on the old belt and cam/crank gears. Then carefully transfer those marks to the new belt. Then simply line up the white marks on installation. It's nearly impossible to end up one tooth off if you do this.
3. When removing the hyd tensioner, remove the bottom bolt completely first before loosening the top bolt. Then when you remove the top bolt the tensioner will swing easily without binding up the bolts and possibly damaging the threads in the block.
4. After cleaning it up I put just a drop or two of motor oil on the tensioner pulley bushing to help with any wear and make it move easily.
5. The idler pulley bolt comes from the factory with thread locker on the threads. Honda says to replace the bolt but I never have.
5. The crank bolt is supposed to have motor oil between the head of the bolt and the washer. You can overtorque if you oil the actual threads.
6. Aisin makes a great kit for these. I've heard that there are even fake Aisin kits on Amazon but I've used the Aisin kits from Amazon and they seem legit. Be careful of the seller you buy from on Amazon. If you're suspicious just buy it from RockAuto.
johnaclark1 yup completely agree with each one of your points and have never had any issues taking these steps. Actually really surprised Eric having worked on Honda for years that he didn’t mark the old belt coming off, it saves so many headaches and makes reinstallation a million times easier
@@2491kridge You mean mark the old belt, put the new belt on top of the old and copy the marks to ease installation?
@@bluecar5556 Correct. You mark the belt and sprocket at each sprocket. Then transfer the marks from the old belt to the new belt, then simply line up the new belt on the marks on the sprockets.
@@johnaclark1 Not sure if I would use that method. In doing so, it is assuming the belt has been replaced that isn't a tooth off. Then again, an engine that is running a whole tooth off isn't going to run very good. Bought a 1996 civic with D16 with timing belt a tooth off. Sounded like it had really retarded ignition timing. Always labored sounding at low rpm's.
@@bluecar5556 Yes, it assumes you have a running vehicle with no issues to begin with. If you are a tooth off you will have engine performance issues, DTC's, etc. Besides, you still set it all to TDC before you mark it and remove the belt.
This step by step tutorial helped me tremendously. I followed the steps and was able to change my timing belt, the crank seal as well as the tensioner, and idler. Thanks for making this video and I hope you continue to make more great videos like this.
It did the job over a two day span, and now the car purrs like a kitten.
eric ive never done anythin besides changin oil; I was able to do my timing belt cuz of info on the net like your videos. Guys like u r the shit
Hey Eric! Thank you so much! Just finished and so far so good. Your point about the upper parts moving saved me- I was not able to make
my belt tight by hand I had to pull the rear forward and place my belt into groove then reset back to time. I took old belt and marked each gear spot - transferred to new belt so I knew I was one tooth out.
I recommend removing the hood holder and sticking a piece of wood in the other side. Also maybe use a bottle Jack to raise motor so the floor Jack is not in way - have to step over and can’t collect coolant because in the way. Marked crank bolt after 47 foot pound to 60 degree then used impact and holdback to get as close as I could.
Can’t say thank you enough - did 2007 odyssey for daughter in law and grandbaby!
I'm the proud owner of an 11 Acura TL with a manual transmission, and thanks to you I'll be doing the timing belt myself this summer... Thanks for your help!
It's very similar, but the parts are a little 'smaller' as you'll see.
*"...so I can't say exactly what you'd be like... but I can imagine it's disappointment"*
Thanks man!
Yes, I just watched an hour of Eric changing the timing belt! Love the little tricks and all the advice you have on this coming from years of experience and probably hundreds of these done. What I found useful for me as a beginner back when I did my 2008 MDX was marking up the old and new TB and counting the number of teeth between the timing marks. I know it's redundant, but it really added more confidence for me as a beginner doing this for the first time. Also, rotating the engine manually to verify the timing marks align helped :)
Why do you copy and paste comments from earlier commenters?
Morning, Eric. The little white package in the water pump says "Enjoy a free snack, compliments of Honda."
USF zuffffzzf uz
Great work sire. I remember doing a 3.5 Rl as my first job way back in the day and had the bank 1 and 2 sensors backward so was shitting bricks when the car would not start. Thankfully i had old school OG watching me and corrected after job. Chapeau to you and the OG's out there schooling us.
Great video, did this job on my car (just the belt the rest is still very solid) over the weekend and the tip about the back cam was invaluable. I also used a C clamp to reset the tensioner and it worked very well.
This video saved me! thank you for explaining the tension vs slack side!!! Set everything to tdc and made sure that the idler and both cams had good tension. Went over to the tensioner side of the belt which was still loose, installed the tensioner, pulled the pin, rotated the engine over two rotations and everything was in time and at their marks!! thanks so much!!
Love the j series, and love all the j series content 👌
Me too
I don't own a car like that but I will take a lot out of it and apply it to my crappy vw car. I honestly needed to see a video like this, for me is like a breath of fresh air. So happy, thank you Eric.
Thank you!
Love these vids, feels like I'm watching Bob Ross with an engine. :D
eric. it took me the better part of 3 days and i also did my radiator, hoses, alternator, and thermostat.
i can’t thank you enough for the information you provide. this video is very valuable
I have to say that’s a quite smooth running engine for the mileage Honda used to be known for their engines I’m impressed with my parents new Acura MDX
Not The Technician Too bad they still run a timing belt on their six cylinder 😆
I just did this service on my wife's 2010 MDX. You and South main auto repair have really thorough video's that help hobbyist mechanics like myself save tons of money on these types of repairs/maintenance.
frdbtr my wife has a 2011 mdx...was it very similar to this video, or were there big differences? Thanks.
The motor mount setup is completely different but everything else is the same. Watch south main auto repairs video on the honda pilot timing belt. The motor mount setup is much closer to the mdx setup with fewer differences.
Helpful tips 😀
1. Leave h/p line on p/s pump, unhook l/p line, fold pump over back of engine!
2. Take crank pulley off before serp belt tensioner, way easier from the bottom!
3. Crank gear (not pulley) is also marked to the block at TDC 😉
4. Once belt is installed, "hand roll" the engine 2 times (720 degrees on the crank). You'll verify timing and preset hydraulic tension 🤙✌
i like using the lisle socket for the crank bolt... comes out in 2-3 seconds
Its so cool driving down the highway going 90-100mph knowing that you/I replaced timing belt, water pump and components, valve lash adjustment, spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, axles, ball joints, brakes, engine mounts (all), etc. You/I did all of the work. Tightened all of the bolts. Now THAT's trusting yourself. And for it to work flawlessly, is just f****** satisfying, yet scary. God bless it.
I love that feeling too but I’m at the point of my life where I have no time to do anything this time consuming and wish I could just afford to pay somebody else to do it lol. Then again I’m afraid of other people touching my vehicles because it’s hard to trust anybody lol.
i want to frame this comment and put it in my house. i read it a year ago and today completed my first ever timing belt job on my 2006 TL with 182K miles. ive done everything in your comment except valve lash and engine mounts in the last year since getting this magic shitbox
@@FLINTmitten810 CATCH 22
@@wolleyreikivalley You did a lot; i did the worst: timing belt without water pump; I should have but the timing is set now; lets see how lucky I am and for how long; I removed the engine; I am about to reinstall
@@DFWAuto_Hack if you have a properly sealed Aisin or Yamada water pump you should be fine, the engineers only say to check it. but since my last comment i’ve also done valve lash adjustment
Dude thank you sooo much for the crank lesson! All was going fine with my wife's 2010 Acura Tl timing belt change, got all off but the belt, and tensioner pully. Took off the tensioner and marked the cams with a marker, in addition to the crank. All was set, pulled off the belt and the cams turned clockwise about two inches. After my sphincter relaxed a bit, I stopped for the evening to research if I could move the cams (saw somewhere you could not do it). After hours of looking for advice, I saw your video. Whew! good to go tomorrow. I feel like I just stepped off a time machine. Could do stuff like this on old Chevy's back in the 80's but have not worked on a car in years and it shows. Sucks being old! Would pay the dealer to do it if he did not want $1900!
Thank you so much Eric for the video I have watched it multiple times until I learned the way to fix my acura rl 2009. I got an estimate around 1500$ and I ran away. I DIY myself with a friend both of us never touched a car before it took us 3 days but manly for the lack of tools or other parts that needed to be replaced.
For the cranckshaft I tried everything and the best way to take of the polt was done using an electric lug nut removal that runs on the car 12V. It comes with an electric jack in a kit for emergency for 90 USD in Amazon. I tried powerful impact wrench from Dewalt and other brands but this cheap device did all the work without any sweat.
I work as a Honda tech up in Dayton when I’m on my school breaks. I tried to tell the guy I work with to use the tool on the crank that you did but he said “this is flat rate dude” then proceeds to put a MAC 3/4 air gun on it and came off like like it was nothing.
Sounds like a smart man you should listen to. 😂. Eric also did a video a while back specifically about those crank bolts and effective ways of getting them off.
Nothing wrong hitting it with impact gun, but sometimes it's just too tight and you have to hit it with brute strength multiplied with a 2 foot breaker bar.
There is actually a very heavy 19mm socket made for impacts to remove crank bolts--the walls of it are much thicker and I'm thinking the momentum of all that added mass, along with a powerful impact, help break it loose so easily. I bought the socket but it is too thick to fit inside the hex crank pulley tool. But now that I have a much more powerful impact, I'm about to try it in a few weeks on a Civic.
@@-rudy- how did it go?
@@supersabrosinho I haven't had a chance to work on that car yet, but once I get a few other car issues sorted (I have a few other that need attention first), I'll be able to get to it. Since I'm using the large Milwaukee 1/2" impact and the crank bolt was removed last year, I suspect it will come out with no issues.
Honda is peak percision manufacturing. My 16 odyssey and 16 accord, both with the j35, both 86k miles, both had timing belt tensioners starting to fail at the exact same time. They sounded like diesels during cold start. 2 timing belt kits done.
Eric, thank you!!! Thank you for all the input on "the little things".
You are so patient and so informative! That silly light needs to go to obedience school. Lol
Seriously, thank you for your expertise and taking the time to help us. I really appreciate you.
Yep - still the best on RUclips. No contest.
Great video, especially with the detailed description of what to do when the rear cam is off.
Eric has done so many of these that he can spot a problem easily, but for non-pros like me it's a good idea to manually turn the crankshaft clockwise 4 revolutions once the belt is under tension. Then, re-check the timing marks.
Also, do not crank the engine for any reason unless the crankshaft pulley and timing belt is installed and tensioned and the crankshaft pulley bolt is torqued. Despite what it might seem and how other manufacturers design similar keys, the crankshaft key is under little to no tension. It will pop out. There will be a metallic marble sound as the engine comes to a halt. Then you get to remove both heads and learn how to do a head gasket and valve job, and how to cut out bent valve stems. I haven't had this happen myself, but a friend wanted me to post this. ;-)
I'm only halfway through watching this video, but I have to pause to ask why Mr EricTheCarGuy didn't clean the mating surface on the engine before installing the new water pump?
I remember buying your first video to do this, back in 2012. Kinda of funny how i'm watching this because i'm about to embark on the same journey, again, apparently just like you.
For 3 days (yes my car has been on jacks for 3 days now) I've been fighting with the timing belt being so tight and can't slide it onto the tensioner so I can finish the damn job. Never thought of doing what Eric did by PUTTING THE BELT IN FIRST then installing the tensioner after the belt is on. I pray that this will work on a hyundai tomorrow morning so I can finally go home.
Great video and excellent that you explain the non-event of the cams slipping due to spring pressure. I’ve done this job on two Honda’s (dual and single cam) and every cam gear did that with no impact with them readjusted to the proper timing. I just did this job on an ‘05 Pilot. It was pretty much identical with minor differences on frame half of the engine mount which was also baked. The engine mount from a local store was slightly different, though shown as a model match on their online filter. It did not have the mount area on top for the bracket that holds the high pressure AC line and computer leads. No biggie, it is a very short run with plenty of places to zip tie those up. I also used an Aisin pump ordered from the online empire and it was a spot on match and fit perfectly. It was marked with “Aisin” and not “Honda”. I suspect it is much more likely a part would be counterfeited and marked as a genuine Honda part since most people don’t know who the OEM manufacturers are so the counterfeiters wouldn’t bother using their markings.
The interior of your $200 car looks great but the engine fasteners look like they were marinated on the sea floor for a few years. Then again, maybe I’m spoiled by a car that spent all its life in bone dry Colorado. The fasteners look the same as the day it rolled off the showroom floor. Then again, the interior and paint of our car is much worse off from the high altitude UV rays.
I bought an Aisin kit from Amazon, that is, the seller was 'Amazon' and not a reseller using Amazon. It seemed to be good quality and genuine Aisin, so hoping it lasts.
How is your Aisin kit holding up
Thank you. The best video I have seen for chaging the Honda timing belt on RUclips.
Hey man just saying thank you for the content. I apricate how you put the torque specs as well as your humor. Cheers dude!
Great video -- wish I had seen it when I did the timing belt on my 2002 Odyssey. I always learn some when you stay dirty?
Thanks again, you made it easy. Well, as easy as it gets working on a crammed-in Honda engine compartment, where you have to remove almost everything before you can actually start removing the timing belt.
I've never seen a grenade pin come out so easily, did the pin pop out when you pulled it? That seemed concerning.
i thought the same thing though ive inly done this once years ago on my mdx.
Changed the timing belt & pulleys & water pump on my 2003 Honda Odyssey last summer. Everything was going smooth and I put the belt on installing new tensioner and pulley. As I torqued the idler pulley to spec the aluminum block thread gave and I ended up stripping the thread. The first time I did the belt back in 2012 I did not use torque wrench and most likely torqued too much. Long story short I ended up installing an appropriate size TimeSert in the block. The hard part was getting to the block - had to remove part of the exhaust, the oil pan, and the oil pump. Luckily all went well and the van is running fine now. Just be careful torqueing bolts in this aluminum block.
You know how kids watch other people play video games, my wife asked me what i was watching, and i said, "this guy change a water pump on a car like mine" amazing videos sir, keep up the great work.
Your videos are super helpful thank you! I just put my valve cover seals on my bolts after watching you and i had no extra seals so i put them in hot water to soften them up it worked I did not ruin any of them lol😀 Thanks again for all you Do!!
Great video original parts are the best they cost less in the long run and they last a very long time.
Great video, Eric. It's funny the timing belt replacement procedure on the Honda J-Series is like 90% similar to the timing chain replacement on the K series engine, main difference being obviously the chain, chain cover, and the fact that cams are further apart on the v6. Good job Honda.
Glad to see you didn't forget to use Blue Loctite Elbow Locker on your right elbow. 😁
I painted my bathroom the week before. ;)
Good video I can see n tell u take ya work real serious and u real passionate n take a whole lotta pride in your craft when working on 🚗 I know u have alotta of loyal customers for all your hard work
I have a 2014 Honda Crosstour with 3.5. I was about to replace the crank and cam seals...but I’m glad I don’t mess with them.
❤❤👍🏼👍🏼 great stuff bro..very detailed perfect for someone like me who has done this many times just not often..in my old age and senility saturation this really helps me to remember. Thank you Eric
Thank you for the videos you put out, they’re very easy to follow and detailed. The only thing I’ve noticed is when you’re putting some of the parts together you fail to start the bolts by hand, I know maybe you’re doing it and Not recording that part but I thought it would be a good idea to mention it.
Thank you Eric ive been planning on changing all these parts on my 07 RL with same kit ,i figured this repair video would be coming soon so I've been waiting lol didn't want to trust other videos on RUclips
Don't use that kit. Buy the parts from a Honda dealer or purchase the Aisin kit. Don't use any other parts. If any of it fails you will be replacing valves in both heads.
@@johnaclark1 thats what i was thinking at the end of the video i know it will be more but it will be worth it, i also thought about using beck & arnley ive used there parts before with no issues but on integras
@@Jodeyjoe559 Don't use the B/A kits. Their stuff is made in China. Trust me, Aisin is the way to go. It's just as good as the oem. If you are a die hard for genuine Honda then go genuine but don't go anything else.
@@johnaclark1 ya i think id be comfortable using what came on from factory ill have to lookup aisin kit
but just a fyi almost everything is made in china now lol
Love the Acura/Honda J Series vids. I own a 2004 Accord V6 and am looking to get a 2008 or 2009 Acura TL. The little white packet in Japanese (For moisture absorption) that ETCG wished he could read says ‘Silica Gel. Do not eat (can’t be eaten)’. I read Japanese spending 7.5 years living there with a BYU- Hawaii graduate Native Japanese bride.
EXCELLENT JOB, Eric & cameraman Bryan!
Thanks so much for all of your wonderful videos Eric! I’ll be doing this on a Camry, and I found a decent video for my specific engine. But, I wanted to watch one by you since you always give such great tips and are so detailed. Thank you for that!
One general question: what do you use to clean the grease off before opening everything up? Is there a specific product you love that works best? Thanks!
I should have sent my Acura to you. Mines is still sitting until I have the money to have my timing replace and other stuff that I was dumb enough to let someone else work on smmh Better yet can I send my 05 Acura TL to you
Get some basic hand tools and do it urself bro its not that hard especially with this video for help
George Reyes I would but I love my Acura TL
Mario Diaz true but I unfortunately ended up having a heart attack and I’m still recovering. Once I heal completely I’m most definitely looking at this vid again for reference...... I’m not gettn another car any time soon. I hate car notes lmao
@@shykesehart5531 sorry to hear that bro and hope u get better soon man, you should have no problem getting things done on ur TL i was lil skidish to work on my 07 RL but in the end its a Honda product so there is simplicity built in
Eric the Car Guy= Eric the auto shop teacher.
Eric... The noticeable differences in your new water pump ( smaller propeller and fit) made me think that yours just might be a counterfeit. Did you conclude the same? If so, would you still use it and could you make a video on what to do? Would you recommend going forward with the repair or wait for the correct part?
Having never had to do a belt on this particular engine. Not very common in Ireland I'm looking at this thinking.... what ballbag decided to out the abs pump there. Clearly not a tech who would be doing belt replacements anyways!!!
Not much space in the engine bay to put it elsewhere really.
I purchase the Aisin TKH-002 timing belt kit for my 2012 Honda Accord V6 and 2008 Acura TL (both j-series engines) and never had a problem. Only extras that aren't included are the serpentine belt and coolant and thermostat (if youre doing that at the same time).
Eric, special thank you for 34:15, that's so important to know!
We specialize in J-Series Performance Parts and show a lot of performance upgrades and mods
I just recently did this job on an accord and the rear cam turned and I almost shit my pants, Thanks for the video
This looks pretty easy as far as timing jobs go, which was my impression just poking around my Odyssey. Even easier than in the video given that it doesn’t have hydraulic power steering. The most difficult thing sounds like that crank bolt.
Top job Eric, reminds of the V6 VR4 in did back in November.....................and cams are scary when they spin with out warning, Thank you Sir
$170 AISIN kit from rockauto is all OES parts except belt. AISIN tensioner, water pump, koyo idlers (2), belt is mitsuboshi and oem for toyota
Aisin I would use and trust 100% but Original Equipment Manufacturer/Supplier is Yamada for the pump and Gates for the belt.
Great video. I think I'm gonna do my Accord V6 timing belt/water pump soon. For my NSX I'm just gonna let my mechanic handle that one.
Is this the same procedure for a J35 V6 Engine on My 2016 Accord?
Speaking of shining lights in your face, I was helping my landlord that has Asperger’s change is water tank and I ask him to hold the light for me so he holds the light so he can see the expressions on my face. lol 😂
Maaan that engine was quiet at start-up,I just love it😁👍🏾 and I wish u were in NY
mclehed77mtb watch South main auto. He is in Avoca, NY nearing Corning,NY
For the coolant issue, what if after draining the radiator you purge the cooling system with a pressure test kit? I would imagine that would force every last drop of coolant out so you don't end up with a mess after removing the water pump, no?
I'm watching this out of curiosity because I just left my 2010 v6 Accord at a mom and pop Foreign car repair garage for a timing belt change out after 134k miles . I think the only sign it gave was a ln intermittent grinding sound inside the cabin .
He's changing the pulley ,tensioner ,water pump and a couple other things as well for $675
A very detailed video. Thanks..we have two, Acuras and a Honda.
Lots of the honda J35s (all?) have the VCM system which is typically mated to an "active" engine mount to try to cancel the vibration when the VCM deactivates some cylinders. I disabled my VCM so I'm likely going to convert my van over the standard mounts which cost hundreds less.
A + Rating, Outstanding Tutorial.
Thank u for the J series brother 😎👍🏼..much appreciated and God bless
That new waterpump looks like a counterfeit for what its worth - i know this video is 4yrs+ old - but i think you came out with another video showing counterfeit parts on amazon a bit after this video.
Ad blocker, i owe so much.
And Eric, i owe you so much more.
Back in the day I paid $10 on your website for video of this job.
Great video Eric. You saved me at least a thousand dollars
More Acura videos I just bought one 07 TL 1800 dollars 180,000 miles even with all maintenance done at the dealership throughout its whole life ;)
@EricTheCarGuy The idler puller on my '07 TL was installed w/ red Loctite from the factory
These honda j series crank bolts are insanely tight. An oxygen acetylene torch is the easiest way to get it loose. Heat the flange on the bolt and it zips right off.
or the lisle harmonic balancer socket, took it off first try for me
I am not going to do this job at all, heck I don’t even a Honda/Acura but damn this was a great video.
Thanks for watching.
I just did the timing belt water pump all of the seals and pulleys on my 2003 Toyota Avalon with the original aisin parts when I pulled the water pump loose I was standing with my feet kind of under the wheel well It filled my shoes with coolant
I almost forgot , Awesome video ! Great tips ! Thank you !!
Nice job Eric as always!!!!
My mechanic who is known to not upsell, ignored the seals during my timing belt service, leaving my oil leaks there. So annoying. Have to drive another hundred thousand miles before it’s worth getting to it.
Counterfeit parts or manufacture updates. Murphy's law states that 1,000 miles those seals that you didn't replace will start leaking, just saying.
I'm no stranger to Murphy, but I've been working on the J series since it came out in 99. I think I'm good. Thanks for the comment.
This is why I have a 65 Buick I can sit inside engine and work on like that so much more easy and a lot cheaper to fix
Excellent work!
So I'm working on my 04 acura tl. Not even kidding I found a spark plug that was not even tightened. So much carbon built up on the coil that it was stuck in place..... can't trust people to get the job done. Now doing it myself
I'm a happy subscriber and i appreciate all of your videos !! My question is after 4 years did you have any issues with the kit ordered from amazon because i see a shit ton of bad reviews on quality should i avoid this kit or should i just install another brand like the AISIN
Hey Eric, are you doing Manny here? Just wanted to let you know that I appreciate on you doing this video. because I have a 3.5 and basically what you have is a similar of the rest of the other 3.5 engines however, I wanted to ask a question into how can you know if your cam seals are leaking so far with a lot of videos that I’ve checked I have not yet seen what it may look like or how it may look like if it’s leaking right now that is one of the biggest problems that I’m having I really can’t tell if it’s leaking but however I’ve had to change my alternator and there’s been a quite some oil on one side of the engine and because everything else is moving is splatters throughout the whole side so now it’s like I have to degrease everything but while I’m doing that if maybe one day you can do a video and explaining how it may look like and to change one that’ll be great. This way I can look for the same exact message so then this way I can detect it more better thank you again and God bless you.
Not trying to hate, but that link to amazon's belt/pump kit has the worst reviews on any product I've ever seen. Lots of people needing thousands in engine repair after the belt snapped or water pump broke.
Nice job great at making videos one question after removing the motor mount and you had the car suspended i notice you didn't have the wood under the oil pan how was the engine being supported without the mount or did you let it hang want to try and tackle this job for a 2012 acura tl any tips are much appreciated thank you
have been wondering this too
Should you turn crank 6 times before you put it back together. After putting new timing belt on
Eric, on the desiccant package you're seeing hiragana and kanji, two of the four different alphabet/character systems used in the Japanese language.
If you didn't need to replace the power steering pump, would just only removing the PS pump pulley provide enough room to do this job?
58:00 No... You did super awesome work there!
Very very informative and entertaining too! Love it! 👍🏿
51:09 I have noise from stop to go when going. I bet my 218K mile TL needs mounts also. I thought the sound was something in the strut area.
Love the repair series!
you are unique Eric!!! Excellent video👍