Thanks for sharing. If I may, I would also lightly scribe around the trim first. It will give the blade a better path and give a crisrper looking result.
@@AustinsModelCars. Just between you and me.......I also scribe lightly around the door handles and marker lights to also give a crisper result with painting or foiling. But keep it to yer'self. It's our secret.
You are right. It's always a good idea to scribe around the trim before painting the body, and then one more time very lightly before applying the foil.
Thanks for sharing. It's an instructive video, but it wouldn't hurt to let the text instructions stay on the screen for a little more than half a second, so that we wouldn't have to stop the video every time a text pops up to be able to read it. It's not that the text is in the way anyway. Now, to be fair, English isn't my first language, so maybe my reading is a little bit slower than most. Anyway, keep up the good modeling work, and keep those videos coming.
Yeah, green is the final color. On some models, I do some weathering but not many of them. As far as varnish, when I do the painting, I do primer, paint and clear and how it turns out you see in the videos.
Excellent work I have a question I recently bought a polar lights batmobile model in 1/25 and I was thinking about using bare metal foil on the canopy windshields the frame work can I use the same technique.
That really makes a difference looks great 👀👍 I'm guessing I can get the foil at a craft or hobby store ? , when I was younger I built them now 64 thinking of starting it again but taking my time see if I can do as good as you guys , thank you for sharing myfriend 👍✌
Thank you! I’m not sure about craft stores, but if you have dedicated model store in your area, you might be able to find it there. If you don’t then you can get it from websites like ModelRoundup.
The mirror finish markers are hit and miss. Molotov is the best that I’ve seen and I got one. It’s good and faster than doing bmf. With the markers, I’d recommend doing it towards the end of the building stages. Because after handling it, it would get marked up and would have to go over it again.
That’s cool. I never really experienced the film from the excess. I would have thought wd40 would have messed with the model somehow but I’ll take your word for it.
@@AustinsModelCars me too but it worked great. I am learning with the airbrush. I had painted the model four times before it was acceptable. I learned that Windex takes Tamiya Acrylic paint right off while leaving the primer intact. The WD40 did not harm the paint. I also learned that thinning the Tamiya Acrylic 2/3 Mr. Color Leveling thinner 400 to 1/3 paint was the magic sauce.
Ohh okay. I think you’re good when you’re done with the bmf. I have heard a little that you can do something to protect the bmf but I haven’t looked into it so I don’t know, that’s why I didn’t show anything after putting the bmf on. Plus I haven’t really had any problems with it.
![[Limbus Company - PV] Chapter.7 - Oblivion](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VUpkXPkvoxU/mqdefault.jpg)
![BabyChiefDoit - Too Slow (feat. STAR BANDZ) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zayaxws7RPg/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for sharing. If I may, I would also lightly scribe around the trim first. It will give the blade a better path and give a crisrper looking result.
Yeah that’s a good idea, maybe I’ll try it.
@@AustinsModelCars. Just between you and me.......I also scribe lightly around the door handles and marker lights to also give a crisper result with painting or foiling.
But keep it to yer'self. It's our secret.
You are right. It's always a good idea to scribe around the trim before painting the body, and then one more time very lightly before applying the foil.
¹
This really adds to the overall realistic look of the car. Thanks for sharing this technique.
It does look better than other chrome techniques. You are welcome!
It’s not a technique, it’s the only way to apply it.
I liked your work choice of music.
Thank you.
Thanks for sharing. It's an instructive video, but it wouldn't hurt to let the text instructions stay on the screen for a little more than half a second, so that we wouldn't have to stop the video every time a text pops up to be able to read it. It's not that the text is in the way anyway.
Now, to be fair, English isn't my first language, so maybe my reading is a little bit slower than most.
Anyway, keep up the good modeling work, and keep those videos coming.
Thank you and you’re welcome! I’ll see about making the text stay up for longer.
Awesome, and to add to Mr. Mac’s statement… patience is a must as well.
Yeah the last thing that you want is the xacto going through the paint or a finger.
A brand new xacto blades a must. And practice practice practice.
Yeah I’m still getting better at bare metal foil.
I love BMF! Can't beat it. Nice work. 🤙🏼
Thank you!
I remember buying BMF from Donn Youst many years ago at a PMSI show in Hampton Va...RIP Donn .
That’s sad what happened to him.
You don't ever want to cut straight down on it! You angle the blade as your cutting this way it doesn't come up short when you barnish it down.
Yeah, at the time I made the video, I had done some bmf but not a lot. I didn’t know everything about it, but I showed what I knew.
Superb music during this focused mind and skill process 😊 Thanks Subscribe and bell done
You’re welcome!
Nice tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
Your welcome.
Green is the final colour body I guess ? Chrome foil is the final step (paint, weathering, varnish are done ?)
Yeah, green is the final color. On some models, I do some weathering but not many of them. As far as varnish, when I do the painting, I do primer, paint and clear and how it turns out you see in the videos.
Great tutorial, my friend! 😁✌️
Thank you!
Very clever trick. I'd try it with some aluminium self adhesive duct tape. Might be cheaper.
Thanks for sharing
I never looked into the aluminum tape so I don’t know. You’re welcome!
@@tdust2487 That's what I thought too
its way to thick
Yes it is... I agree@@stevethomas-cc5lz
great job i could never do that good thank you for this video
Thank you and you’re welcome!
Great Video!!!! Thanks for sharing
Thank you and your welcome!
Thank you for sharing
You’re welcome!
The music is putting me to sleep🥱🥱😴😴😴
I’m sorry, I’ll make sure to not include the song.
Nice work.
Thank you!
Excellent work I have a question I recently bought a polar lights batmobile model in 1/25 and I was thinking about using bare metal foil on the canopy windshields the frame work can I use the same technique.
Thank you! As far as the Batmobile, you could probably use this method if you take your time with it.
Wow, you wasted a lot of foil! And P.S. all the excess glue left behind can be easily cleaned up with a Q-Tip and a tiny bit of “ Goo Gone”.
Yeah I forgot to mention about the clean up.
That really makes a difference looks great 👀👍 I'm guessing I can get the foil at a craft or hobby store ? , when I was younger I built them now 64 thinking of starting it again but taking my time see if I can do as good as you guys , thank you for sharing myfriend 👍✌
Thank you! I’m not sure about craft stores, but if you have dedicated model store in your area, you might be able to find it there. If you don’t then you can get it from websites like ModelRoundup.
@@AustinsModelCars okay 👍 thank you myfriend for the tip didn't know that was out there ✌️.
Great video, 👍 thanks
Thank you and you’re welcome!
I've found those mirror-finish chrome markers. Any pro/cons compared to BMF?
The mirror finish markers are hit and miss. Molotov is the best that I’ve seen and I got one. It’s good and faster than doing bmf. With the markers, I’d recommend doing it towards the end of the building stages. Because after handling it, it would get marked up and would have to go over it again.
Nice music video. First time listen to it. Whats the name?
Undercover Vampire Policeman
m.ruclips.net/video/H5HN7tIHuOs/видео.html
Starting off with the subtitle you'll need bare metal foil to do bare metal foil really helped me tremendously, thanks!
Yeah, lol.
Great tip, thank you
You are welcome!
What model is that? It’s nice👍🏽👍🏽
It’s a Moebius 1954 Hudson Hornet.
Niceeee!
Thank you John!
Is that music a Funeral Parlor CD? 😂🎉
For the longer videos I use songs that are longer.
Do YOU clear-coat before or after you foil
I do clear coat before I bmf.
I found it left a film on the model after removing the excess. WD40 takes it right off, works great.
That’s cool. I never really experienced the film from the excess. I would have thought wd40 would have messed with the model somehow but I’ll take your word for it.
@@AustinsModelCars me too but it worked great. I am learning with the airbrush. I had painted the model four times before it was acceptable. I learned that Windex takes Tamiya Acrylic paint right off while leaving the primer intact. The WD40 did not harm the paint. I also learned that thinning the Tamiya Acrylic 2/3 Mr. Color Leveling thinner 400 to 1/3 paint was the magic sauce.
let me see if i have this correct, paint car, cleat coat, bmf......then what
Then you’re done. What, is there a secret step I don’t know about? Because I don’t know what else to do to the body.
I'm just asking since I've never done this before
Ohh okay. I think you’re good when you’re done with the bmf. I have heard a little that you can do something to protect the bmf but I haven’t looked into it so I don’t know, that’s why I didn’t show anything after putting the bmf on. Plus I haven’t really had any problems with it.
@@AustinsModelCars ty
@CraigVogel you’re welcome!