Damn I can't believe how cheap the whole rebuild kit and camshaft was! I'm amazed at this build and thank you for getting so in depth with everything, great work.
Best thing I found to clean pistons/parts is the gallon of carb/parts cleaner that has a little dip basket in it can get it pretty much anywhere but you have to let it sit like a good hour but it takes all the carbon off without scrubbing and just spray it all off with brake cleaner
Tide and water also will remove paint from plastic parts with out damaging them , but with plastic depending on how thick the paint is it could take up into a week just light brush each night and back into the solution . With carbon on internal engine parts just over will do. Try one small part & see you will be surprised
i have used a few of these engine tech rebuild kits, i was surprised how descent the parts where within the kit, very happy with results. i would definitely use these kits again
@@TheSleepyMechanic0524 No.. ATF did nothing. Soaking them in diesel for 2 days and then clean them off with a very light scotch brite and carb cleaner worked great.
Clean both pieces. Wear welding gloves, so no hand heat transfer. Freeze pickup tube end with inverted can of PC Duster spray. Heat gun pump housing. RED Loctite in housing bore. Quickly slam in tube, tap with rubber mallet, till it bottoms out, quickly twist into position.
The part about piston ring bevels. I think cleaning the carbon and taking a little part of the bevel will make them seal much much better than leaving the uneven crabon in there
I avoid using soap based cleaners for internal engine parts as a personal preference. They tend to leave behind a film that doesn't rinse off as well. It may not matter one bit, It's just that I'm weird. Great job on this build, as far as the video format goes, I like both ways you've presented.
I wonder if an old cappuccino machine steamer with a hose and needle fitting would make a good cleaner for things like this. We use these in guitar repair to loosen glued in neck joints. Might not be enough pressure, I guess.
I have some but don't use them as often mostly since they are a bit pricier. I have not yet found shop towels that won't lint/break apart on the sharp edges of machined parts, though. Regular paper towels do have lint, it is unavoidable, but it is small enough, soft enough, and easily washed out of the system the first time an engine/transmission/whatever is run.
The grime was light enough on these it didn't seem worth it to me to use the die grinder, I feel like the wide surface area of the hand brush did things just as fast if not faster than I could have with the little wheel on the die grinder. And I wouldn't put a piston anywhere near any wire wheel I've used on a bench grinder!
Only certain ones that are torque-to-yield, like many Japanese engines use. That means they are designed to stretch in a certain way as they are tightened and will not reach the correct clamping force if used again. Most older American engines just use regular bolts, like this small block Chevy does.
If make up bucket of hot water 1 cup of tide granular clothes detergent two gallons water put them in submerged over night , brush with a paint brush rinse hot water come out like new. Cheep easy mindless
I must admit, I have not heard of using Tide to clean pistons before! I've heard of it for cleaning oil and abrasives from the engine block, but never tried it myself. I think I'll have to give that a try next time I need to clean parts like this, thanks for the tip!
It is a good idea, for sure, and some engines that use torque-to-yield head bolts actually require that. But on a low horsepower small block Chevy, as long as the bolts are clean and straight it is totally fine to reuse them.
Just found ya channel, great vids, one thing bothers me tho, I was taught to never, ever re-use "cylinder head bolts" because they've been torqued & stretched to specs for the 1st time, so they're more prone to premature failure the 2nd time around.....not saying you're wrong, but just was taught differently.
On a small block Chevy, especially a mild one like this, they are totally fine to re-use. Some engines use torque-to-yield bolts which are designed to stretch and should never be re-used like you mentioned, but not these older small blocks (before the mid-1990's you should be safe). Of course, if you want to spend a little more for new bolts, it would not be a bad idea.
Can't speak for him, but for me it's just watching videos like this, Googling things that interest me, taking out library books; stuff like that. I really got back into cars a year ago, and basically you just have to live and breathe cars, and you'll learn more than you think in a short time.
That's why it's important to mark where each rod cap goes before taking things apart, it is tough to get mixed up rod caps back in the right place. Some types of rods are actually broken at the parting line, so they have a unique break and the caps will only fit with their specific rods, but most are not like that. Best thing to do would probably be to install the caps on rods and torque the nuts down, and use an inner diameter micrometer or similar tool to measure the roundness of each, and just try different caps with different rods to find the combination that makes each as round as possible. Of course, each rod cap can be installed in two different directions and that can make a difference too. The same thing might be possible just measuring on the crankshaft with Plastigage, but you'd really want the accuracy of a micrometer there.
I wouldnt have used purple power on aluminum due to things I've seen, Like on a friend's car he used purple power to clean an aluminum intake manifold exterior when cleaning the engine bay and it made the aluminum turn white and start to get "crusty", tho idk if its different grade of aluminium it effects or something.
Did he use a wire brush to clean it? Certain types of brush (steel) will cause a reaction in the aluminum and can cause it to oxidize like that. Stainless wire brushes are the way to go for aluminum parts. I doubt degreaser caused that, but I couldn't say for sure. Never noticed an issue with it when I used Purple Power.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects Really? Steel will cause that? We contributed it to the purple power because it only happened when he used it. He always cleaned it with a steel brush and it wasnt until after using purple power it started to oxidize.
@@EHoward64 Honestly, I have never done real testing on that for myself but that is what I have read in many places. Cleaned a carburetor body with a steel brush once or twice and had that result, never had it happen to one cleaned with other methods, including more than one soaked in Purple Power. But it could be some weird reaction or have to do with the composition of the metal itself. Could even just be that the degreaser cleaned it so well that it didn't have any protective coating/layers built up on it to prevent that oxidation.
Yes, installed crank bearings the same size as the ones in it when I took it apart. Smarter to get it reground? Definitely! Cheaper? Nope, and that's me in a nutshell. The engine seems fine so far, and has great oil pressure though.
NP. Have just seen the video with the clearings. You do your decisions and deal with the consequences. You had some learning experiences on this car and alot of fun for sure. I really enjoy this. Instasub on first vid btw.
imo, i wouldn't reuse head bolts on anything where the holes go into a water passage. On my Buick 350s I do because all the holes are blind, as they have a bottom, and they usually clean up well and have no pitting, again, because the holes are blind and dont protrude into water passages. If a bolt is pitted, it's structural integrity is compromised.
For a cylinder head seeing boost or high compression, or a more expensive build, new head bolts are a very good idea. For stock-ish SBC, if the bolts pass a visual inspection after cleanup I wouldn't hesitate to re-use them. Thread sealer keeps them from leaking, and a regular coolant change interval keeps it from getting too acidic, so they are fairly safe in there.
if this doesn't run after all this and engine looking brand new, then I ose all hope for GM. this poor Blazer has been through hell it looks like! Even the rebuilt engine is looking rough too!
Jake Tow they are fine, 350's have been around forever, and parts are plentiful and cheap. The oil pump parts are Melling, top of the line for oil pumps
Like Dave1135 said, companies have pretty much figured all of this stuff out for these engines. And they are so simple, there kinda just isn't all that much to go wrong if the parts are made half-decent. And they are so plentiful, companies can make these parts in huge quantities and source them from many different manufacturers to get them to your door cheaply. If you need an engine guaranteed to last at 6500 RPM, or put out 600 HP, then those parts are out there too, at a very different price point. I haven't been burned by these sorts of cheap parts yet (not that it won't/can't happen), so I am not worried about it.
FuzzyDicePimp Thanks for the prompt response, I appreciate the explanation. I had questioned as I am rebuilding a Toyota 22R, and parts for it are so iffy, for cheap you can get crap parts but it doesn't seem to be the case with yours. Twice the horsepower as mine for a fraction of the cost!! I'm gonna be in like $2K!!
It totally happens, and there is a huge gap in prices between brands and engine families. I helped a friend rebuild a 7MGTE a few years back and the amount of money he spent on parts for that thing (a mild boost 400-ish hp setup) was outrageous. Parts for the L28 we half-rebuilt in the Datsun 280z series on this channel were well over twice the price of the ones used in this build. Best of luck with the 22R, those engines have a fantastic reputation for endurance, I hope yours treats you well for many years to come! If you do it yourself, brand, horsepower, and cost don't matter. Just that YOU did it.
You should definatly replace thos rod bolts man its cheap insurance to make sure that bottom end stays together and on a second note that cap fits way too loose which is another reason you should replace those rod bolts they are cheap just throw a set of arp bolts on there man
Ideally, you're right, ARP bolts would be great to use, but what is on there will treat me fine. The cap isn't loose, I had to try four or five times to get that shot of it sliding on in one go at the end (you can see one of those attempts at the end of part 4 of this episode). In a race engine, sure, go ARP. In this one, we're all just lucky I'm not holding the rods together with zip ties!
FuzzyDicePimp yeah but i mean a a set of arp rod bolts for a 350 are like 50 bucks and i was taught to always replace rod bolts with a rebuild i mean its your choice but i would highly recommend it
If I used ARP hardware, I wouldn't feel comfortable without reisizing the big ends, a change like that can really affect clearances since they are so tight for SBC rods. So the price isn't all in the purchase of the hardware. Other than engines built for horsepower or with no regard for budget, I don't know many people who wouldn't just use the stock ones.
Brass is harder than aluminum... You should never use brass to clean up aluminum. It can damage it. Nowadays we use rubber pads that spin fast. You can use brass on cast iron. You always want to use something that is softer than the metal. All you want to do is get rid of the dirt, Not the material it's made from. It's so critical.....
Only on some engines that use torque to yield bolts, that stretch as they are tightened. On many engines (like a Chevy 350 that isn't picky) you are fine re-using bolts but if getting new ones is in the budget, it isn't a bad idea.
I don't know what "FOB" stands for, but the lint and fibers from paper towels (as long as it's not on critical gasket surfaces), doesn't pose a threat to a small block Chevy. At some absurd level, sure, you could maybe get it to sludge enough to get a large piece to stick to the oil pickup screen and cause a blockage. But at a reasonable level, with particles of paper towel small enough that you can barely see them, I do not think there is any threat. In an automatic transmission valve body, probably don't use regular paper towels. In an engine, they're fine. It's a perfect world vs. the real one sort of situation. If that is the biggest problem you have with the things I am doing to this engine, it makes me feel better about the build haha!
FuzzyDicePimp I believe he means FOD meaning foreign object damage. It's more of an aviation based term for objects that damage parts. I.e. a rag in the intake that jams the stators and rotors of a jet engine.
If I end up doing this stuff more often, I would like something like that, or otherwise a better solvent cleaning solution. But for this series at least, the elbow grease method is good enough haha
I always shudder when I watch someone using a cutting blade on a grinder without the guard! Having suffered a broken blade, WITH the guard in place, I really cringe. Please change your habit before too late.
I just about always use guards now, except when absolutely impossible to use one. The one on that grinder was just difficult to use and the screws liked to back out. I have seen some scary damage from the things (there is a reason they are called "death wheels"!) so it is definitely best to have that extra layer of protection. Thanks for looking out!
I bet you if this guy made millions.... He would still be doing the exact same this. Seems like such a level header guy.
its amazing how far hes going with this project most people wouldve given up by now especially at the transmission part. this dudes a legend
I watched this series when it came out and im watching it again to prepare for a sbc 350 rebuild
Damn I can't believe how cheap the whole rebuild kit and camshaft was! I'm amazed at this build and thank you for getting so in depth with everything, great work.
the problem with 8 cylinders is that you have to clean 8 pistons.
MsMotron and the problem with 4 cylinders is that you don't have 8
yeah that why I got an ej25 running 23psi it soooo close to blowing up
with that much boost i say so
Billy Bob My v8 is running on 4... sounds like a honda
This video reminds me of the old saying: if you want something done right you have to do it yourself!
Dan Aylestock 👍
Hey. I've really enjoyed the V8-S10 series videos. I'm doing a SB350 budget rebuild. Thank you for the time and energy put into these. So helpful
brass wire brush is good for scrubbing aluminum
Wow you seriously gave me confidence to rebuild my 1977 Chevy engine and use my used part's and hone and clean the block myself
I love your videos. I've been watching them like COVID 🤣🤣. As a former shade tree mechanic you are speaking my language. Thank you so much. Drive on!!
Never been happier to see a new episode, rock on
Better to buy new head bolts and rod studs. They are never the same after being stretched.
oh yeah, throw 'em out and get new ones. like reusing condoms.
That's just one reason I am not rebuilding the 307 from my 68 Chevy G10 van. Just not worth the price.
hell ya I love this series
Best thing I found to clean pistons/parts is the gallon of carb/parts cleaner that has a little dip basket in it can get it pretty much anywhere but you have to let it sit like a good hour but it takes all the carbon off without scrubbing and just spray it all off with brake cleaner
Yep, that is a good solution! Another commenter suggested using tide detergent in a similar way, which interests me because I'm stupendously cheap.
taylor pierce gotta love that carb cleaner
Tide and water also will remove paint from plastic parts with out damaging them , but with plastic depending on how thick the paint is it could take up into a week just light brush each night and back into the solution . With carbon on internal engine parts just over will do. Try one small part & see you will be surprised
Im so glad I just started this series so I can binge and not wait for videos
i have used a few of these engine tech rebuild kits, i was surprised how descent the parts where within the kit, very happy with results. i would definitely use these kits again
Just a cleaning tip, if you dunk them in Automatic Transmission fluid it eats carbon for breakfast
O, I just remembered that I have 2 pistons for a 'test' soaking in ATF for a couple of days... maybe I should check if it actually worked...
@@TerrybleGamer did it work
@@TheSleepyMechanic0524 No.. ATF did nothing. Soaking them in diesel for 2 days and then clean them off with a very light scotch brite and carb cleaner worked great.
@@TerrybleGamer sounds about right. Atf is much better at getting engines unstuck.
Love videos like this. Thanks for providing it to us.
I NEVER reuse high torque bolts. NEVER! Anything that gets more than 35ft-lbs gets replaced.
I like this kind of video sometimes i learn something new
Clean both pieces. Wear welding gloves, so no hand heat transfer. Freeze pickup tube end with inverted can of PC Duster spray. Heat gun pump housing. RED Loctite in housing bore. Quickly slam in tube, tap with rubber mallet, till it bottoms out, quickly twist into position.
I think your videos are good, everything is well explained.
i used an rv cam in my old transam and it increased power and was smooth running.
this is cool.a whole engine rebuild .old school.
I rebuilt Chevy 350 -4bolt main when I was in the service a long time ago. Would love to be there with you sound this job!!
The part about piston ring bevels. I think cleaning the carbon and taking a little part of the bevel will make them seal much much better than leaving the uneven crabon in there
Before you even said what kind of cam it was gonna be I was thinking RV cam!
A light sand blast 😊
Nice job. But we need more. And more often lol
No guarantees on more often, but more coming tonight! Will have all four parts of this episode up in the next hour or two.
Great Channel!
awesome series man!
I avoid using soap based cleaners for internal engine parts as a personal preference. They tend to leave behind a film that doesn't rinse off as well. It may not matter one bit, It's just that I'm weird.
Great job on this build, as far as the video format goes, I like both ways you've presented.
I wonder if an old cappuccino machine steamer with a hose and needle fitting would make a good cleaner for things like this. We use these in guitar repair to loosen glued in neck joints. Might not be enough pressure, I guess.
Interesting idea, haven't heard that before!
STOP BEING SO FUCKING CHEAP UHHH I'M GOING TO SMASH MY PHONE
I'm joking lol
4:59 *stresses to be careful with pistons multiple times* hits it with wire brush handle 😂
Love these videos!
where did you got that kit? i really need this info! thank you very much for all your videos!
You should buy an ultrasonic bath/cleaner. Medium sized (couple of gallons). Would make cleaning a lot easier...
2000 years in the future archaeologists will find a strange tube overly welded to a small metal tab amidst rust and the remains of rubber
The only time I am happy to have a v6 😂
Toothbrushes work good too I got 5 of them sitting brush down in a can of kerosene in my shop
okay, parts for 350 chevy engines are dirt cheap
From Amazon? Their prices are pretty low like this.
The water pump and oil pump were, the rest were eBay, which is mostly my go-to place for car parts.
@fuzzydiceprojects what is your opinion on seafoam?
Use Scott blue shop towels, they are lint free and dont tear easily
I have some but don't use them as often mostly since they are a bit pricier. I have not yet found shop towels that won't lint/break apart on the sharp edges of machined parts, though. Regular paper towels do have lint, it is unavoidable, but it is small enough, soft enough, and easily washed out of the system the first time an engine/transmission/whatever is run.
Thank god for the air compressor and wire wheel .
The grime was light enough on these it didn't seem worth it to me to use the die grinder, I feel like the wide surface area of the hand brush did things just as fast if not faster than I could have with the little wheel on the die grinder. And I wouldn't put a piston anywhere near any wire wheel I've used on a bench grinder!
Great video, but I thought you aren't supposed to reuse head bolts?
Only certain ones that are torque-to-yield, like many Japanese engines use. That means they are designed to stretch in a certain way as they are tightened and will not reach the correct clamping force if used again. Most older American engines just use regular bolts, like this small block Chevy does.
Love the vid man
do you have to move the transmission when you're moving the rear main seal
If make up bucket of hot water 1 cup of tide granular clothes detergent two gallons water put them in submerged over night , brush with a paint brush rinse hot water come out like new. Cheep easy mindless
I must admit, I have not heard of using Tide to clean pistons before! I've heard of it for cleaning oil and abrasives from the engine block, but never tried it myself. I think I'll have to give that a try next time I need to clean parts like this, thanks for the tip!
Even tho this is an old vid for the piston rings you should use pipe cleaners to clean it
Ive always been told to use new head bolts because old bolts can be weakened by years of heating and cooling.
It is a good idea, for sure, and some engines that use torque-to-yield head bolts actually require that. But on a low horsepower small block Chevy, as long as the bolts are clean and straight it is totally fine to reuse them.
FuzzyDicePimp or you can be like sloppy and reuse head gaskets every single bolt and make 800hp to the wheels through an unlocked converter
I respect the heck out of SloppyMechanics, but he's also terrifying haha
Just found ya channel, great vids, one thing bothers me tho, I was taught to never, ever re-use "cylinder head bolts" because they've been torqued & stretched to specs for the 1st time, so they're more prone to premature failure the 2nd time around.....not saying you're wrong, but just was taught differently.
On a small block Chevy, especially a mild one like this, they are totally fine to re-use. Some engines use torque-to-yield bolts which are designed to stretch and should never be re-used like you mentioned, but not these older small blocks (before the mid-1990's you should be safe). Of course, if you want to spend a little more for new bolts, it would not be a bad idea.
I fucking love you the detail is amazing
hi,i admire your work..
can i know how you know all this stuff/studied or work for a mechanic?
Can't speak for him, but for me it's just watching videos like this, Googling things that interest me, taking out library books; stuff like that.
I really got back into cars a year ago, and basically you just have to live and breathe cars, and you'll learn more than you think in a short time.
How can you tell where the rod caps go? I took my engine apart a while ago and some of the caps were off the rods, is there any way to tell?
That's why it's important to mark where each rod cap goes before taking things apart, it is tough to get mixed up rod caps back in the right place. Some types of rods are actually broken at the parting line, so they have a unique break and the caps will only fit with their specific rods, but most are not like that. Best thing to do would probably be to install the caps on rods and torque the nuts down, and use an inner diameter micrometer or similar tool to measure the roundness of each, and just try different caps with different rods to find the combination that makes each as round as possible. Of course, each rod cap can be installed in two different directions and that can make a difference too. The same thing might be possible just measuring on the crankshaft with Plastigage, but you'd really want the accuracy of a micrometer there.
I wouldnt have used purple power on aluminum due to things I've seen, Like on a friend's car he used purple power to clean an aluminum intake manifold exterior when cleaning the engine bay and it made the aluminum turn white and start to get "crusty", tho idk if its different grade of aluminium it effects or something.
Did he use a wire brush to clean it? Certain types of brush (steel) will cause a reaction in the aluminum and can cause it to oxidize like that. Stainless wire brushes are the way to go for aluminum parts. I doubt degreaser caused that, but I couldn't say for sure. Never noticed an issue with it when I used Purple Power.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects Really? Steel will cause that? We contributed it to the purple power because it only happened when he used it. He always cleaned it with a steel brush and it wasnt until after using purple power it started to oxidize.
@@EHoward64 Honestly, I have never done real testing on that for myself but that is what I have read in many places. Cleaned a carburetor body with a steel brush once or twice and had that result, never had it happen to one cleaned with other methods, including more than one soaked in Purple Power. But it could be some weird reaction or have to do with the composition of the metal itself. Could even just be that the degreaser cleaned it so well that it didn't have any protective coating/layers built up on it to prevent that oxidation.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects Thats entirely possible. Be an interesting experiment to see cause I know he used harbor freight wire brushes.
Have you ordered the same size crankshaft bearings? Woulnt it be smarter to regrind the crankshaft to another undersize?
Yes, installed crank bearings the same size as the ones in it when I took it apart. Smarter to get it reground? Definitely! Cheaper? Nope, and that's me in a nutshell. The engine seems fine so far, and has great oil pressure though.
NP. Have just seen the video with the clearings. You do your decisions and deal with the consequences. You had some learning experiences on this car and alot of fun for sure.
I really enjoy this. Instasub on first vid btw.
imo, i wouldn't reuse head bolts on anything where the holes go into a water passage. On my Buick 350s I do because all the holes are blind, as they have a bottom, and they usually clean up well and have no pitting, again, because the holes are blind and dont protrude into water passages. If a bolt is pitted, it's structural integrity is compromised.
For a cylinder head seeing boost or high compression, or a more expensive build, new head bolts are a very good idea. For stock-ish SBC, if the bolts pass a visual inspection after cleanup I wouldn't hesitate to re-use them. Thread sealer keeps them from leaking, and a regular coolant change interval keeps it from getting too acidic, so they are fairly safe in there.
I have a 2004 s10 blazer and i already have a v8 350 ready to swap
Are those stock pistons ?
Milwaukee makes much better vice grips, you can stick a screwdriver into part of the handle so you can go more than hand tight
if this doesn't run after all this and engine looking brand new, then I ose all hope for GM. this poor Blazer has been through hell it looks like! Even the rebuilt engine is looking rough too!
Hmm... nobody recommended 1:6 rockers?
What welder do you have
Just a 240V 170A MIG welder from Harbor Freight, the cheapo one. A little fiddly but continues to get the job done!
You forgot the piston return springs
Are you worried at all about the quality of the parts you ordered? Those prices look like they are pretty low quality parts.
Jake Tow they are fine, 350's have been around forever, and parts are plentiful and cheap. The oil pump parts are Melling, top of the line for oil pumps
Like Dave1135 said, companies have pretty much figured all of this stuff out for these engines. And they are so simple, there kinda just isn't all that much to go wrong if the parts are made half-decent. And they are so plentiful, companies can make these parts in huge quantities and source them from many different manufacturers to get them to your door cheaply. If you need an engine guaranteed to last at 6500 RPM, or put out 600 HP, then those parts are out there too, at a very different price point. I haven't been burned by these sorts of cheap parts yet (not that it won't/can't happen), so I am not worried about it.
FuzzyDicePimp Thanks for the prompt response, I appreciate the explanation. I had questioned as I am rebuilding a Toyota 22R, and parts for it are so iffy, for cheap you can get crap parts but it doesn't seem to be the case with yours. Twice the horsepower as mine for a fraction of the cost!! I'm gonna be in like $2K!!
It totally happens, and there is a huge gap in prices between brands and engine families. I helped a friend rebuild a 7MGTE a few years back and the amount of money he spent on parts for that thing (a mild boost 400-ish hp setup) was outrageous. Parts for the L28 we half-rebuilt in the Datsun 280z series on this channel were well over twice the price of the ones used in this build.
Best of luck with the 22R, those engines have a fantastic reputation for endurance, I hope yours treats you well for many years to come! If you do it yourself, brand, horsepower, and cost don't matter. Just that YOU did it.
Use the old timing set to make a crank for your engine stand and thank me later 😃
Huh, I like the way you think! Haven't heard of that creative use before but it seems to make sense!
Fuzzy Dice Projects If you have an old crank handle from a come-a-long even better
Prob woulda been easier to solder or braze that tube in place
You should definatly replace thos rod bolts man its cheap insurance to make sure that bottom end stays together and on a second note that cap fits way too loose which is another reason you should replace those rod bolts they are cheap just throw a set of arp bolts on there man
Ideally, you're right, ARP bolts would be great to use, but what is on there will treat me fine. The cap isn't loose, I had to try four or five times to get that shot of it sliding on in one go at the end (you can see one of those attempts at the end of part 4 of this episode). In a race engine, sure, go ARP. In this one, we're all just lucky I'm not holding the rods together with zip ties!
FuzzyDicePimp yeah but i mean a a set of arp rod bolts for a 350 are like 50 bucks and i was taught to always replace rod bolts with a rebuild i mean its your choice but i would highly recommend it
If I used ARP hardware, I wouldn't feel comfortable without reisizing the big ends, a change like that can really affect clearances since they are so tight for SBC rods. So the price isn't all in the purchase of the hardware. Other than engines built for horsepower or with no regard for budget, I don't know many people who wouldn't just use the stock ones.
FuzzyDicePimp i would more recommend at least replacing them with any brand i was just taught to never reuse rod bolts
Not to mention the wood wire brush is junk lol.. 5 min of use you’ll have a wood handle with no wires left in it 🤣
Even 100000 miles of carbon melts off with out burning the metal
This blazer proves that there is no such thing as a $200 vehicle
14 seconds in anyone else notice his zip-tied boot?
Brass is harder than aluminum...
You should never use brass to clean up aluminum.
It can damage it.
Nowadays we use rubber pads that spin fast.
You can use brass on cast iron.
You always want to use something that is softer than the metal.
All you want to do is get rid of the dirt, Not the material it's made from.
It's so critical.....
Pls rolls Royce restoration
I heard that you could never reuse your head bolts s*** happens
Only on some engines that use torque to yield bolts, that stretch as they are tightened. On many engines (like a Chevy 350 that isn't picky) you are fine re-using bolts but if getting new ones is in the budget, it isn't a bad idea.
Initial D !
You really should use ring pliers on your piston rings to avoid deforming them, it could cause compression to go down
Uh, you mean use ring pliers like the ones I used in this video?
Gates water pump, you'll regret it trust me
Get rid of the paper towels. TOO much lint and there will be too much FOB tracking into the rebuilt engine.
I don't know what "FOB" stands for, but the lint and fibers from paper towels (as long as it's not on critical gasket surfaces), doesn't pose a threat to a small block Chevy. At some absurd level, sure, you could maybe get it to sludge enough to get a large piece to stick to the oil pickup screen and cause a blockage. But at a reasonable level, with particles of paper towel small enough that you can barely see them, I do not think there is any threat. In an automatic transmission valve body, probably don't use regular paper towels. In an engine, they're fine. It's a perfect world vs. the real one sort of situation.
If that is the biggest problem you have with the things I am doing to this engine, it makes me feel better about the build haha!
FuzzyDicePimp I believe he means FOD meaning foreign object damage. It's more of an aviation based term for objects that damage parts. I.e. a rag in the intake that jams the stators and rotors of a jet engine.
sounds like you spent to much time alone
You should put/add 4 wheel drive on this car
It is 4WD, that's what made fitting the engine in so hard
I used kerosene to clean parts when I rebuilt a engine
Pay someone to bake it off for 50$, save u hours and make it so much cleaner
Horses
please buy a Ultrasonic Cleaner and stop working and scrubbing so hard make life easier on your self please
If I end up doing this stuff more often, I would like something like that, or otherwise a better solvent cleaning solution. But for this series at least, the elbow grease method is good enough haha
My man you need to buy some new gloves og
initial d
ok we know its cheap.. slow down on the cheap word plz
I always shudder when I watch someone using a cutting blade on a grinder without the guard! Having suffered a broken blade, WITH the guard in place, I really cringe. Please change your habit before too late.
I just about always use guards now, except when absolutely impossible to use one. The one on that grinder was just difficult to use and the screws liked to back out. I have seen some scary damage from the things (there is a reason they are called "death wheels"!) so it is definitely best to have that extra layer of protection. Thanks for looking out!
Ive used a cutoff wheel before and had a guard and it saved me. Had glasses on also and the wheel broke and hit my leg and arm. Always use safety!
doesnt even look fun anymore ..sorry ..great videos but jesus christ you have the mind noah and his arc.....
Prob woulda been easier to solder or braze that tube in place