thank you for moving slow and adding all the correct specs. I am a first time builder following your formula seems the right way to go. I hope my engine looks and performs great
I learned a couple of things from a Mr Goodwrench, when putting pistons in is to have the cylinder 90 degrees instead of the 45 degrees you used thus the (protected of course) rod bolts have a even smaller chance of touching the crank journal. Another thing learned was to use a wooden handle hammer to tap pistons into place instead of the rubber covered metal shank handle you used (for reasons another poster stated). If I miss a thumbs up on a video it's because I'm rushing to get to the next video as I am enjoying them that much :)
Using thick assembly lube instead of engine oil on the bearings will increase your free-turn torque. With engine oil you might've been 15-25 ft/lbs of torque depending on the weight used.
This is a great video series. You guys should have done this with the Datsun 280z as well. I have performed this kind of rebuild ( as in no or minimal machine shop work ) on a Subaru flat four 2.5, Nissan L Series 2.4, Toyota Cressida 2.8 straight six sohc and all have worked out well. You should expect excellent results here with you V8. Really enjoy you presentation and editing style. Wish I could come and play too . Can't wait for the next instalment.
Thanks, glad you're enjoying these videos! The reason we didn't fully rebuild the L28 engine was mostly time, but also laziness. I suggested to at least put new rings on it, but the car's owner just wanted to throw it back together. He had plans to replace it anyway, though those tend to get put aside once something works passably well.
Very good point! I know there are at least two different groove depths used for these engines, though most use the stock depth. These pistons used the stock depth so it wasn't an issue, but for some aftermarket (especially high-end) pistons it is pretty critical to check. Sorry about your engine!
My dad and I used to use very thin film of white lithium grease on the cylinder walls once we got the ring gap set and installed on the pistons to ease the installation and prevent any galling.
Sure, just like some people dunk the pistons in oil I have heard that some people like to use lithium grease for lots of things in an engine. I personally don't think it's necessary, at least not for cast iron rings, but stick with whatever works!
Tip: watch out for the bottom of the hammer, my dad have a hammer where the rubber has worn out and a steel rod is now damageing everything when you use the back of the hammer
Actually, quite a while, maybe four weeks. If I didn't have to film/edit and had all of the parts on hand before starting, I could probably get just about everything done in two weekends. With a friend, probably one weekend (plus time to remove and reinstall the engine). At least 75% of that time is spent cleaning.
I figured it would take a lot more time! 4 weeks is not a bad turn around actually. It looks like a lot of hard work ,but I'd love to rebuild the straight six in my C10. Or maybe I should buy another one and rebuild that so I can just swap the new engine in. How much did you sink into this engine? I imagine not buying a new crank shaft and pistons probably helped out the budget too.
I'll try to add up parts costs at the end, but I think something like $150-200. That doesn't include tool costs like the $40 flexhone. Buying a second engine and taking your sweet time rebuilding it is a very good idea, especially if you can get it really cheap. When there is no rush or time crunch the hard work is more satisfying and fun.
That's not too bad to rebuild an engine for the neighborhood of 200 dollars. I could splash money on tools with a price like that! I'm going to start looking for a I6 now. Hopefully I can find one without having to buy a parts truck or something. I'd rather just buy the engine because I would want to fix up a parts truck.
Top ring is compression ring. Second Top ring is scraper ring. Then three oil rings. The groovy one is called the expansion ring. I assemble all Subaru engines in North America.
Sorry, I actually don't. I'm sure that is out there somewhere though! Most of what I know about these engines has been from learning from experienced old-timers and reading forums.
Curious is both top ring and bottom ring wider in the groove not talking about the 5/64 thickness but where the ring touches the back wall of piston groove outward to edge of piston, I'm having a hard time with mine as they are both thicker and both grooves in piston are at the same depth
Is there a tool that lets you lock the crank in place when you're tightening the rod bolts? Seems like there should be a solution for that I just don't know what it's called.
As long as you don't tighten them in the direction of rotation it isn't a problem, ie. turn the wrench perpendicular to the crankshaft. For other things you could always just put a block of wood or something between the block and a counterweight to hold it still.
You could use dial indicators to measure the parts separately, and the clearance is the difference between the readings. Requires specialty equipment but it is the more accurate way to do it.
Oil on piston rings is a long-debated topic, some swear by it but some swear you should never use any oil on rings because it affects break-in. It kinda doesn't matter. Something light like WD-40 is nice because it helps the pistons install easily, but will disappear as soon as the engine is started so that the rings can seat quickly and easily.
FuzzyDicePimp I hadn't watched the video long enough to see you used assembly on the rod bearings. Did you use assembly lube on the crank journals? Love these videos!
Oh, okay! Yep, assembly lube on the crank journals too. Same as here, you don't want to take a plastgage reading using it but you definitely want a coating on the bearings before putting parts in for real.
There are many people who make the case that you don't want any excess oil on the cylinder walls during cylinder/ring break-in, and WD-40 lets you install them easily without leaving a film of oil. In my opinion, you can pretty much install them any way with cast iron rings and not have to worry about it, this is just the strategy that makes the most sense to me.
+Fuzzy Dice Projects Your doing right, I build engines for a living and I use WD40 to install the pistons. I've tried probably every method there is over the last 34yrs. WD40 works fine. If ya use oil or tranny fluid, it can glaze the cylinders and the rings never seat.
Agree to disagree. It works fantastic as a lightweight lubricant and water displacing agent. Great for keeping gaskets from sticking, installing parts without leaving a serious oil film on them, and keeping bare metal from oxidizing.
I use it as a cleaner for guns and an anti rust agent. Or even to disperse water on an electrical system. I highly disagree with spraying gasket surfaces down, the whole point is for the gaskets to seal. Not to be able to be removed later. But that's just my opinion and what would I know with 25 years experience working on vehicles and other equipment?
The article you linked is correct, I don't disagree with any of their major points. It should not be used as a lubricant on anything where you need that lubricant to stay there, but it's perfect for pistons (for example) because it helps to install them but doesn't interfere with breaking them in. Gaskets of many kinds are re-useable and WD-40 or baby powder helps ensure they come back off in one piece, very useful for carb gaskets or other ones installed without any dressing. Keep doing what works for you, if your methods have served you well for 25 years then that's great!
I am surprised that you are being so cheap knowing all the issues you have had. Buy the proper tools and use the proper lube for the jobs you are doing. You are putting all this money into rebuilding the engine but are to cheap to do it right. Does not make sense to me. Also if you are guiding people on how to do things, do you not think you should be showing how to do it the right way? Not the cheap way.
I would say that the "cheap way" isn't necessarily not the "right way". If the money is not there to do it better, doing what you can with what you have can get things done well enough. There are plenty of videos out there showing builds where they throw expensive parts and big money at engine builds and make a ton of power, I think it is fine to talk about how to get things done if that isn't an option.
thank you for moving slow and adding all the correct specs. I am a first time builder following your formula seems the right way to go. I hope my engine looks and performs great
Love the relaxed, informative and DIY atmosphere in the videos. Great series.
I learned a couple of things from a Mr Goodwrench, when putting pistons in is to have the cylinder 90 degrees instead of the 45 degrees you used thus the (protected of course) rod bolts have a even smaller chance of touching the crank journal. Another thing learned was to use a wooden handle hammer to tap pistons into place instead of the rubber covered metal shank handle you used (for reasons another poster stated).
If I miss a thumbs up on a video it's because I'm rushing to get to the next video as I am enjoying them that much :)
Using thick assembly lube instead of engine oil on the bearings will increase your free-turn torque.
With engine oil you might've been 15-25 ft/lbs of torque depending on the weight used.
Great videos! I like the quality of footage and the information you put into them. Keep it up!
Dude these videos are awesome, I am really looking forward to seeing this thing fire up again.
Love the sbc videos and I learn a lot from you. Please do more engine builds.
I rubbed by belly and the video was released... Im pretty happy with myself right now. Liturally right after i Finnished part 2...
Man i cant wait to see that thing running again. That engine is coming along great
Also your vids make me want to pull my motor and rebuild for no reason. Great vids 👍🏿 👍🏻👍
Good job man. Keep the vids coming you and #chrisfix should link up
Love what You do!! Can't whait until next part!
ahhhh just what i needed before. Kinda like a bed time story ordeal lol good videos and work man keep it up!
yuuup just what i needed before i went to bed. Keep up the good work!
This is a great video series. You guys should have done this with the Datsun 280z as well.
I have performed this kind of rebuild ( as in no or minimal machine shop work ) on a Subaru flat four 2.5, Nissan L Series 2.4, Toyota Cressida 2.8 straight six sohc and all have worked out well. You should expect excellent results here with you V8. Really enjoy you presentation and editing style. Wish I could come and play too . Can't wait for the next instalment.
Thanks, glad you're enjoying these videos! The reason we didn't fully rebuild the L28 engine was mostly time, but also laziness. I suggested to at least put new rings on it, but the car's owner just wanted to throw it back together. He had plans to replace it anyway, though those tend to get put aside once something works passably well.
You may want to check ring depth on the oil seal rings, I ordered a custom set of forged pistons and did not check this and destroyed the engine.
Very good point! I know there are at least two different groove depths used for these engines, though most use the stock depth. These pistons used the stock depth so it wasn't an issue, but for some aftermarket (especially high-end) pistons it is pretty critical to check. Sorry about your engine!
dude kept pumping out the videos man, kept it up!!!
Great detailed videos keep it up...eager to watch part 4
yay more vids good series man I'm pumped to see this finished
My dad and I used to use very thin film of white lithium grease on the cylinder walls once we got the ring gap set and installed on the pistons to ease the installation and prevent any galling.
Sure, just like some people dunk the pistons in oil I have heard that some people like to use lithium grease for lots of things in an engine. I personally don't think it's necessary, at least not for cast iron rings, but stick with whatever works!
Note sure if you did but its a good idea to rotate the crank after installing each piston to make sure its not seizing
Tip: watch out for the bottom of the hammer, my dad have a hammer where the rubber has worn out and a steel rod is now damageing everything when you use the back of the hammer
Fair point, be careful if you use a really worn out tool like that!
Your videos are great bro. Keep up the great work!
You not supposed to but that’s what’s happening 😂
"But uhhhhh thats whats happening" my man XD
Another great video!
Great stuff!
Why can't i stop watching... i don't even have a car....
You installed these rings incorrectly I do believ
The compression ring is supposed to be the middle groove I'm surprised it didn't mess anything up
dude love your videos.
Greatly presentetive video..
I always rebuilt my engines with Marvel Mystery oil.
You deserve way more subs
How long did it take for you to rebuild the engine? I was curious because I would like to rebuild my straight six in my C10
Actually, quite a while, maybe four weeks. If I didn't have to film/edit and had all of the parts on hand before starting, I could probably get just about everything done in two weekends. With a friend, probably one weekend (plus time to remove and reinstall the engine). At least 75% of that time is spent cleaning.
I figured it would take a lot more time! 4 weeks is not a bad turn around actually. It looks like a lot of hard work ,but I'd love to rebuild the straight six in my C10. Or maybe I should buy another one and rebuild that so I can just swap the new engine in. How much did you sink into this engine? I imagine not buying a new crank shaft and pistons probably helped out the budget too.
I'll try to add up parts costs at the end, but I think something like $150-200. That doesn't include tool costs like the $40 flexhone. Buying a second engine and taking your sweet time rebuilding it is a very good idea, especially if you can get it really cheap. When there is no rush or time crunch the hard work is more satisfying and fun.
That's not too bad to rebuild an engine for the neighborhood of 200 dollars. I could splash money on tools with a price like that! I'm going to start looking for a I6 now. Hopefully I can find one without having to buy a parts truck or something. I'd rather just buy the engine because I would want to fix up a parts truck.
Don't the rings turn around the piston as the engine runs?
Top ring is compression ring. Second Top ring is scraper ring. Then three oil rings. The groovy one is called the expansion ring. I assemble all Subaru engines in North America.
Curious.... do you know a book you recommend, that is a really great guide on how to rebuild most engines?
Sorry, I actually don't. I'm sure that is out there somewhere though! Most of what I know about these engines has been from learning from experienced old-timers and reading forums.
Haynes
At 12:05, what was that thing that moved past the car towards the top right corner? A rope?
I feel like you should’ve honed and polished
Curious is both top ring and bottom ring wider in the groove not talking about the 5/64 thickness but where the ring touches the back wall of piston groove outward to edge of piston, I'm having a hard time with mine as they are both thicker and both grooves in piston are at the same depth
120 degrees apart as opposed to 180 degrees? whys that?
Jaedon Haskins I think because there are 3 rings in the oil grove and 360/3 is 120
Is there a tool that lets you lock the crank in place when you're tightening the rod bolts? Seems like there should be a solution for that I just don't know what it's called.
deweys the crank usually wont move while you are torquing rod bolts
As long as you don't tighten them in the direction of rotation it isn't a problem, ie. turn the wrench perpendicular to the crankshaft. For other things you could always just put a block of wood or something between the block and a counterweight to hold it still.
👍
Yo man can u rebuild my v8 Chevy small block for my g20 Chevy can come pick her up
Sorry, I have too many projects already!
What is used instead of plastiguage
You could use dial indicators to measure the parts separately, and the clearance is the difference between the readings. Requires specialty equipment but it is the more accurate way to do it.
Putting rings in without any kind of lubrication can cause scoring into the cylinder
Used WD40 when installing, as shown. Helps get them in to the bore. Many people prefer to install rings completely dry, though.
FuzzyDicePimp I know you used WD40 I was talking about how some people put them in dry
Oh, okay. I have never tried that myself, so I have no experience with it. Can't be that bad if I have heard of it being done so many times though.
WD40 is a solvent NOT a lubricant. Ever use it on a squeek and 2 days later the squeek is back...and worse?
Engine oil squirt from a bottle would have been more sufficient.
No assembly lube?
Oil on piston rings is a long-debated topic, some swear by it but some swear you should never use any oil on rings because it affects break-in. It kinda doesn't matter. Something light like WD-40 is nice because it helps the pistons install easily, but will disappear as soon as the engine is started so that the rings can seat quickly and easily.
FuzzyDicePimp I hadn't watched the video long enough to see you used assembly on the rod bearings. Did you use assembly lube on the crank journals? Love these videos!
Oh, okay! Yep, assembly lube on the crank journals too. Same as here, you don't want to take a plastgage reading using it but you definitely want a coating on the bearings before putting parts in for real.
dat gap tho...
Do you have an instagram?
No, but it would be neat to put pictures up there to keep people up-to-date on progress between videos. May one day start one.
WD-40 is a degreaser
So tedious!
well im early.
Dude, i like you. But this WD-40 is shit. You can use oil engine. Same like factory.
There are many people who make the case that you don't want any excess oil on the cylinder walls during cylinder/ring break-in, and WD-40 lets you install them easily without leaving a film of oil. In my opinion, you can pretty much install them any way with cast iron rings and not have to worry about it, this is just the strategy that makes the most sense to me.
+Fuzzy Dice Projects Your doing right, I build engines for a living and I use WD40 to install the pistons. I've tried probably every method there is over the last 34yrs. WD40 works fine. If ya use oil or tranny fluid, it can glaze the cylinders and the rings never seat.
*RIP HARAMBE*
Wd-40 is neither a lubricant or a penetrate, please stop using it. For anything.
Agree to disagree. It works fantastic as a lightweight lubricant and water displacing agent. Great for keeping gaskets from sticking, installing parts without leaving a serious oil film on them, and keeping bare metal from oxidizing.
I use it as a cleaner for guns and an anti rust agent. Or even to disperse water on an electrical system. I highly disagree with spraying gasket surfaces down, the whole point is for the gaskets to seal. Not to be able to be removed later. But that's just my opinion and what would I know with 25 years experience working on vehicles and other equipment?
lifehacker.com/5891936/when-should-i-not-use-wd-40
The article you linked is correct, I don't disagree with any of their major points. It should not be used as a lubricant on anything where you need that lubricant to stay there, but it's perfect for pistons (for example) because it helps to install them but doesn't interfere with breaking them in. Gaskets of many kinds are re-useable and WD-40 or baby powder helps ensure they come back off in one piece, very useful for carb gaskets or other ones installed without any dressing.
Keep doing what works for you, if your methods have served you well for 25 years then that's great!
I am surprised that you are being so cheap knowing all the issues you have had. Buy the proper tools and use the proper lube for the jobs you are doing. You are putting all this money into rebuilding the engine but are to cheap to do it right. Does not make sense to me. Also if you are guiding people on how to do things, do you not think you should be showing how to do it the right way? Not the cheap way.
I would say that the "cheap way" isn't necessarily not the "right way". If the money is not there to do it better, doing what you can with what you have can get things done well enough. There are plenty of videos out there showing builds where they throw expensive parts and big money at engine builds and make a ton of power, I think it is fine to talk about how to get things done if that isn't an option.