To fix any confusion. To anyone who gives this channel a thumbs down sit on it. This is one the most enjoyable things I get to see. Please to the owner of the channel, never think for a second that I was insulting you.
ive done this on a 3000gt vr4 engine. i got about 45k miles before the oil pressure started dropping. the mains were slightly not round, and wore out those bearings. the engine is 320hp stock. i have to admit, i got my moneys worth for a $100 rebuild
I haven't read any comments so someone may have said this already.my hillbilly way on the MAIN journals was....I put the old bearing back in the block and insert crank and on the one being polished: leave lower bearing shell out and on the upper cap cut a piece of clothing (different thickness) and put sandpaper in cap like bearing and tighted down that particular cap accordingly as to how much pressure you want...and put crank bolt back in and spin crank with a drill or impact! KEEP OILED VERY WELL! Has worked for me! At the racetrack! With "melted" bearing material to crank! Removed and polished quit well!! Was amazed myself!
Ah, good tip! Seems like a great "we need this engine fixed in ten minutes" kind of method! Should produce a pretty good finish with the right sandpaper, too, since the pressure should be nice and even.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects thanks bruh...been building sbc for over 30 yrs.seen most all of it and worked on allot of "junk too" lol raced for 20 of them yrs dragracing..outlaw street stuff! O.k good luck! And good stuff.watched almost all of them! (Yours) till wife said let's eat! Lol
Give the guy some prop for doing this . This makes the build much better . Trans rebuilt and now the motor . Hmm what's next the diffs ? Once u upgrade one part u see what the next weak link
I've always wanted to rebuild my ford 351w, but I've decided it's cheaper and more entertaining to watch someone rebuild/modify a '88 s10 blazer. Keep the videos coming, I like watching them. It makes me want to buy an old junker and restore it!
Haha, if the engine isn't running (or is running very poorly), I say go for it! If it takes weeks, months, years, just go for it! It's very satisfying and these old OHV V8s are almost all very simple to work on if you have some time and patience.
I have a 88 Chevy heavy half ton that’s been in my garage since early spring haha, it’s been a big learning experience for me, it’s a lot of work but I’m glad I did it and it’s almost done, after so cuss words and bloody knuckles
just seen all six episodes in a span of 24 hours, good stuff man. i have a 89 s10 with a 350 sbc aswell but i just bought a motor and dropped it in, and i have a 92 2 door blazer. i love this type of content. just a humble guy working in his own garage
Its crazy i remeber on my old accunt waiting for each episode to come out getting ready to start a rebuild myself so awesome tips tear down and cleaning it
Awesome videos. I just discovered and subscribed to your channel last week. I'm just getting through your Blazer project. I quite honestly think this is one of the best rebuild videos out there. I cant wait to watch your other projects. Thanks for the content!
As you know, the professional machine shops use a type of belt sander to smooth and polish the bearing surfaces on the crank shaft. Thinking about how I might duplicate the same procedure, I modified the above method shown by this RUclips author by using a sanding belt (1 x 20 inches, or so in length) and a rubber adapter used for a round or barrel (cone?) sanding paper. I inverted the sanding belt and placed it around the journal to be polished (with the fine emery cloth already in place, as in this video tutorial). I chucked the rubber adapter into my power drill and inserted the rubber end inside the sanding belt and started the polishing in this manner. Why did I invert the sanding belt? The sanding surface of the belt allowed the rubber adapter to "grab" the belt more firmly, as well as to hold onto the emery polishing cloth firmly as well, especially when you have sprayed everything with WD40. I mounted the crank shaft on supports under either end allowing me to rotate the crankshaft as I polished the journals. It worked, but it took a little effort and concentration to maintain that belt in the center of the rubber adapter and the journal. The belts cost about 4 and rubber adapter which came in a kit for about 7 dollars, both at Harbor Freight.
FuzzyDicePimp I had to close my eyes for a minute and picture it for a minute myself. Great job on everything so far....now it's all up to the plastigauge gods.
The harbor freight set of micrometers I got for $35 when they first came out wouldn't hold a zero. It was disappointing, but not really surprising. I *might* try a new set, but if I have to go cheap, I like grabbing older Starrett & Mitutoyo micrometers cheap on eBay. For work, I use new stuff, but in the home shop, and teaching new people the stuff, I like having reliable, good quality tools I got for $20-ish from someone not using them anymore.
I did same but I used 3 laces exact same length wrapped evenly end to end. Then I put on low speed drill with very light pressure. I did unrepairable damage but I almost had it.
Thank you for this! I'm almost to the point of getting my crankshaft measured for bearings, and this will keep me from having the machine shop polish it.
Although most magazines will say this can't be done and the engine will never last clearly shown is if the diameter is in spec, there is no out of round, and the surface finish is executable then this work around is just fine. May take longer but your own labor on your own time is only as valuable as you value it whereas a machine's shops can cost you big money.
Haha, you're totally right! Honestly hadn't thought too much about it and filmed this at like 2AM, had enough trouble figuring out what direction to sand in at all! So I suppose the theory would be to sand the main and rod journals in a counterclockwise direction (which I did anyway) for a crank that rotates clockwise.
Depends on what facilities you have available in your area. If I have access to a good crankshaft shop, I wouldn't touch a crankshaft and I'd take it to Carolina Crankshaft. In the Charlotte area there are a lot of good shops used by some of the Nascar teams who are mostly based in this area. But in more out of the way cities, I'd either ship my crank off to have a full service done on it or attempt your method.
Gave this trick a try today but came into a problem. I was using 2000 grit to shine up an old crank but as soon as i applied pressure the paper stuck to the crank and my shoelace started slipping. I was using WD-40 but decided to give soapy water a try and that did the trick, the sandpaper would stick occasionally but i could finally shine up that nasty old crank.
Hey, what about making a bow for the shoelace to spin the sand paper. Kinda like primitive bow drill .. stone age man style. Just upgraded with some adjustable shoelace attachment on one side. Btw great vids, keep up the great work.
Just for future reference. Never by any circumstances set the crank or cam down on its side without any support on where the bearings go or set them down with it standing straight up and down. Those parts can actually bend and A. Cause them to not seat properly and B. Cause uneven oil clearances and C. Cause an out of round rotation
If you don't get your engine dynamically balanced it's probably the cause of engines not lasting as long as they could have lasted. Also when doing this to a stock crank you could probably get an undersized bearing for the journeys you took more metal off of.
Well i was just about to comment about how you only have 31k subs and how you deserve about a million times more than that, THEN i saw the very ending of the video where you were playing with that spider. Just kidding keep up the good content. (But for the love of God stop playing with spiders)
What type and brand of paper are you using? Thank you. I intend to do this with a perfectly running engine, passes CA Smog with no problem, with low oil pressure @ 235K Miles, 454, 4X4 truck in the truck on my back in my driveway. So I need all the help I can get.
Was the donor car in a front end collision? I've seen the main journals like that from the car being in one, Nothing else wrong with the engine just some scarring on the mains. Good video duder.
Huh, interesting suggestion! I have no idea, but it's quite possible. The donor truck was driven to a shop, the shop owner bought the engine, trans, and transfer case out of it, didn't need the engine and sold it to me. No idea what condition the truck was in other than that it still drove.
Sometimes people way overrate machineshops and what they do. A machineshop wouldn't regrind that unless it has deeper scoring or pitting. They would just put it up in a rotating jig with a long sanding belt that would gently sand it down evenly.
Yessir, I briefly tried to switch to rags but I dirtied them up so bad most of them had to be thrown out anyway lol. Without an industrial cleaning service disposable, cheap, readily available paper towels are the way to go.
How did doing your own reconditioning like cylinder honing and crank polishing work out for you over time? Still running fine? Considering doing same for a Ford 302 5.0l rebuild myself.
So far so good, around 9k miles later. Not that I have taken it apart to check or anything, but oil still looks normal and the pressure seems fine. (Pressure gauge is a little dodgy.) If I had a similarly scored crank journal and cylinder walls on another low budget build, I'd do it again. Want to run another compression and leakdown test to see how it's don't but I haven't gotten around to it yet
The driver's side head gasket was blown, blowby was bad, and because it's what I had wanted to do in the first place. Didn't fancy changing a cylinder head in the truck (brake booster and some other things would probably have to come off) so it only made sense. I'm glad I did since (if nothing else), it made me realize that it had two different cylinder heads on it. Plus I'm a glutton for punishment and it apparently makes for good video content.
I made a mistake haha, it was very late when filming that and I didn't catch it when going through in editing. They absolutely do not, the rods move in both directions on the small end but not the crankshaft.
Cool, I'd love to see yours! Some other locals have requested some sort of meetup, at some point I'll choose a car show or meet nearby for everyone to meet up at and make a video to announce it.
Could someone please help me understand, how can you resurface a cam shaft / cylinder heads / etc without adding metal. Let's say it has bad scratches, how do professionals fill those grooves??
A professional generally wouldn't fill the grooves at all, most parts can be ground and use thicker bearings but of course they can only be ground so far. If the scratches are deep enough, it would just need a new part. If it is just one scratch across a sealing surface that isn't incredibly vital, it is possible to weld over it and grind it back down flat to fill it, but it would have to be made very flat for something like a cylinder head.
Allen McKinney 210 Is what the factory claims, on the dyno they end up putting out about 195- 200 in my experience, the best thing to do to make it better is replace the stock cam with something like an RV cam or roller rocker and replace the crappy stock heads, other than that a bigger Y-pipe or just straight up duals will net you some power too
Kevin Gipe thanks. I got a set of 305 #601 54cc heads I've thought about using but I'm not sure how they will work out. Id be happy with 250-300hp but I also want it to last more than a few years.
Allen McKinney yeah I hear you lol, could always try it, I’ve never tried putting 305 heads on a 350 I just got the aftermarket or vortec heads, you can get a good set of 350 vortec heads for cheap from a junkyard off a 1996 or newer truck
I'd used 4000 thefinger the polish the Less drag you can even get 3-4hp off a good crank polish and I mean dyno proven on engine matters and that's literally all they did same engine same day sneer gas sane parts same trq. It's worth it imo because if you gain 3-4 here and there 4 or 5 or 10 times you can get 20-40 hp gain and that's feelable gains it cost time but mostly very cheap mods
It does make sense that on a high end, low-clearance engine a real mirror finish could make a difference. Something worn out like this I was mostly using heavier grits to try to smooth out the grooves, but for an important engine build I can totally see it being worth it to take much more time and go to higher grits.
You said 2.437... Why is it 2.447? Maybe because they are 0.010 under But they are still out of tolerance. 2.448" - 2.449 - 0.10" = 2.338" -2.439" Yours is 2.4 37"..... That's at least .001" under the lowest and after will be at least 0.0025 -0.0035" I undersize!!!! So I don't understand.... That's too much!!!
To fix any confusion. To anyone who gives this channel a thumbs down sit on it. This is one the most enjoyable things I get to see. Please to the owner of the channel, never think for a second that I was insulting you.
I understood what you meant, no worries! Thank you for the kind words!
That's what I thought not putting much power in this setup.
ive done this on a 3000gt vr4 engine. i got about 45k miles before the oil pressure started dropping. the mains were slightly not round, and wore out those bearings. the engine is 320hp stock. i have to admit, i got my moneys worth for a $100 rebuild
I haven't read any comments so someone may have said this already.my hillbilly way on the MAIN journals was....I put the old bearing back in the block and insert crank and on the one being polished: leave lower bearing shell out and on the upper cap cut a piece of clothing (different thickness) and put sandpaper in cap like bearing and tighted down that particular cap accordingly as to how much pressure you want...and put crank bolt back in and spin crank with a drill or impact! KEEP OILED VERY WELL! Has worked for me! At the racetrack! With "melted" bearing material to crank! Removed and polished quit well!! Was amazed myself!
Ah, good tip! Seems like a great "we need this engine fixed in ten minutes" kind of method! Should produce a pretty good finish with the right sandpaper, too, since the pressure should be nice and even.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects thanks bruh...been building sbc for over 30 yrs.seen most all of it and worked on allot of "junk too" lol raced for 20 of them yrs dragracing..outlaw street stuff! O.k good luck! And good stuff.watched almost all of them! (Yours) till wife said let's eat! Lol
You also ought to see my "homemade rotor Turner I made (initially for 2004 Honda ) but eventually adapted to work on a few others! Front wheel drive!
@@FuzzyDiceProjects how is it going 3 years after???
Give the guy some prop for doing this . This makes the build much better . Trans rebuilt and now the motor . Hmm what's next the diffs ? Once u upgrade one part u see what the next weak link
Crank scratches? You mean oil reserve valleys.
Super Duty 455 lmao exactly just more oil cush
really needs to be hand scraped with a carbide tip.
Did anyone try it and how its going till now??
I've done it several times. And a machine show will.send it out with a small scratch after polish. Just fills with oil
I've always wanted to rebuild my ford 351w, but I've decided it's cheaper and more entertaining to watch someone rebuild/modify a '88 s10 blazer. Keep the videos coming, I like watching them. It makes me want to buy an old junker and restore it!
Haha, if the engine isn't running (or is running very poorly), I say go for it! If it takes weeks, months, years, just go for it! It's very satisfying and these old OHV V8s are almost all very simple to work on if you have some time and patience.
I have a 88 Chevy heavy half ton that’s been in my garage since early spring haha, it’s been a big learning experience for me, it’s a lot of work but I’m glad I did it and it’s almost done, after so cuss words and bloody knuckles
Kevin Gipe did you ever get it finished?
just seen all six episodes in a span of 24 hours, good stuff man. i have a 89 s10 with a 350 sbc aswell but i just bought a motor and dropped it in, and i have a 92 2 door blazer. i love this type of content. just a humble guy working in his own garage
Whenever I hear someone sand something I get goose bumps...
Awesome work my friend! Love the series, and how "real world" it is.
This is one of the best build series I have seen. I look forward to doing this with my 1992 k1500 with a 350.
Jay Miller it’s never as fun or as quick a process as originally planned, count on that lol. Good luck
You are the every man we need making this kind of video. Thanks for the close up before view.
This content has made you one of my top 5 channels to watch on youtube.
Amazing hand shine. I appreciate your restraint. Kudos to you man.
I'm so glad you get all these views! The amount of work and time you put into these videos is just nuts
I’m looking forward to seeing the end result.Can’t wait to hear it run! And a compression test.
Its crazy i remeber on my old accunt waiting for each episode to come out getting ready to start a rebuild myself so awesome tips tear down and cleaning it
Very nice process! I'm tired of being screwed by the local machine shop they charge $300 to polish a crank... excellent!
i have looked forward to this video a little more than I probably should have great video man keep up the good work
Ring plament on piston
Awesome videos. I just discovered and subscribed to your channel last week. I'm just getting through your Blazer project. I quite honestly think this is one of the best rebuild videos out there. I cant wait to watch your other projects. Thanks for the content!
As you know, the professional machine shops use a type of belt sander to smooth and polish the bearing surfaces on the crank shaft. Thinking about how I might duplicate the same procedure, I modified the above method shown by this RUclips author by using a sanding belt (1 x 20 inches, or so in length) and a rubber adapter used for a round or barrel (cone?) sanding paper. I inverted the sanding belt and placed it around the journal to be polished (with the fine emery cloth already in place, as in this video tutorial). I chucked the rubber adapter into my power drill and inserted the rubber end inside the sanding belt and started the polishing in this manner. Why did I invert the sanding belt? The sanding surface of the belt allowed the rubber adapter to "grab" the belt more firmly, as well as to hold onto the emery polishing cloth firmly as well, especially when you have sprayed everything with WD40. I mounted the crank shaft on supports under either end allowing me to rotate the crankshaft as I polished the journals. It worked, but it took a little effort and concentration to maintain that belt in the center of the rubber adapter and the journal. The belts cost about 4 and rubber adapter which came in a kit for about 7 dollars, both at Harbor Freight.
I like using a old leather belt in place of shoe lace
Great videos! The attention to detail is amazing! Keep up the good work!
Have just watched the whole series to this point, and I'm thinking you should definitely keep up the great work sir.👏🏼👍🏼
The rods run in a single rotational direction in the crank as well.
Yep, I got that correction from another commenter. Wasn't thinking very clearly haha, and it was very late at night by this point.
FuzzyDicePimp I had to close my eyes for a minute and picture it for a minute myself. Great job on everything so far....now it's all up to the plastigauge gods.
Was looking in the comments for this :)
Subbed - you know the difference between force and pressure. You, sir, are in an astonishing minority on YT.
Best DIY engine video I have seen.
Thank you.
I subscribed.
The harbor freight set of micrometers I got for $35 when they first came out wouldn't hold a zero. It was disappointing, but not really surprising. I *might* try a new set, but if I have to go cheap, I like grabbing older Starrett & Mitutoyo micrometers cheap on eBay. For work, I use new stuff, but in the home shop, and teaching new people the stuff, I like having reliable, good quality tools I got for $20-ish from someone not using them anymore.
I did same but I used 3 laces exact same length wrapped evenly end to end. Then I put on low speed drill with very light pressure. I did unrepairable damage but I almost had it.
So satisfying to watch.
Thank you for this! I'm almost to the point of getting my crankshaft measured for bearings, and this will keep me from having the machine shop polish it.
good video! Never thought about doing that to the crank always just bought new ones lol
your videos are my favorite
Although most magazines will say this can't be done and the engine will never last clearly shown is if the diameter is in spec, there is no out of round, and the surface finish is executable then this work around is just fine. May take longer but your own labor on your own time is only as valuable as you value it whereas a machine's shops can cost you big money.
The rod journals only turn in one direction, same as the mains, not both directions as you said in the video. Otherwise, awesome job bro!
Haha, you're totally right! Honestly hadn't thought too much about it and filmed this at like 2AM, had enough trouble figuring out what direction to sand in at all! So I suppose the theory would be to sand the main and rod journals in a counterclockwise direction (which I did anyway) for a crank that rotates clockwise.
I love your videos. Cant wait for another one. Keep up the good work!
Nice video cant go wrong with polishing a crank
Depends on what facilities you have available in your area. If I have access to a good crankshaft shop, I wouldn't touch a crankshaft and I'd take it to Carolina Crankshaft. In the Charlotte area there are a lot of good shops used by some of the Nascar teams who are mostly based in this area. But in more out of the way cities, I'd either ship my crank off to have a full service done on it or attempt your method.
Great job Dad
Gave this trick a try today but came into a problem. I was using 2000 grit to shine up an old crank but as soon as i applied pressure the paper stuck to the crank and my shoelace started slipping.
I was using WD-40 but decided to give soapy water a try and that did the trick, the sandpaper would stick occasionally but i could finally shine up that nasty old crank.
Hey, what about making a bow for the shoelace to spin the sand paper. Kinda like primitive bow drill .. stone age man style. Just upgraded with some adjustable shoelace attachment on one side. Btw great vids, keep up the great work.
Good idea, that seems like it would work well!
I had a rod knock on an old 350 in a Monte Carlo with low mileage. We used a .0015 under sized rod bearing to fix this.
Excellent series
Ya. I've got nothing to do at times but I'd still take this to the shop to be done
At 7:45 yo can see the micrometer reading at .437. I like the process used. I will trying this method.
Great job guy!!!! Awesome video
Just for future reference. Never by any circumstances set the crank or cam down on its side without any support on where the bearings go or set them down with it standing straight up and down. Those parts can actually bend and A. Cause them to not seat properly and B. Cause uneven oil clearances and C. Cause an out of round rotation
Ah, made it to the fourth dimension, glad to be here
You do nice work. Respect!
that's actually pretty ingenious using tape and shoe strings
Keep going man love your videos
U deserve way more subscribers than U've got.
nice work. your perseverance is inspiring.
Great videos, but yeah, the best argument for fully eletric cars is their sheer simplicity.
Best video ever
Excellent video series, thanks!
If you don't get your engine dynamically balanced it's probably the cause of engines not lasting as long as they could have lasted. Also when doing this to a stock crank you could probably get an undersized bearing for the journeys you took more metal off of.
It's right to debur anything next to a bearing. you really don't want a microscopically sharp edge to gauge your bearings
Well i was just about to comment about how you only have 31k subs and how you deserve about a million times more than that, THEN i saw the very ending of the video where you were playing with that spider.
Just kidding keep up the good content. (But for the love of God stop playing with spiders)
Haha, that was a little spider too. I'll try to find a bigger one next time!
FuzzyDicePimp oh boy. I'll be looking forward to seeing it then.
I was the one who commented about the spider bro. Man, you totally made my day with that last little clip at the end. Really wasnt expecting that!
72k subs now
You guys are more forgiving than me lol. I was shaking my iPad with both hands yelling “Kill it! Kill it with fire!”
Nice engine series. Did some engine building tips on mine if you are curios.
looking good man!
Hello, still running? I m dealing with copper on my mains right now, i have 2 or 3 spots that i cant get out with wet 600grid. I hope it will work
nice trick with shoe lace :D
Rear main on small chevys get unfiltered oil fed to them, probably why it was the worst.
As I understand it, grooves are not your problem. High spots and foreign materials are your concern.
What type and brand of paper are you using? Thank you. I intend to do this with a perfectly running engine, passes CA Smog with no problem, with low oil pressure @ 235K Miles, 454, 4X4 truck in the truck on my back in my driveway. So I need all the help I can get.
Nice job
Ps, maybe get a magnetic drain plug.
Well, the drain plug is just a 1/2" bolt, not exactly a standard drain plug thread haha. Have thought about epoxying a magnet to the end of it.
FuzzyDicePimp drill the center and press the magnet
Was the donor car in a front end collision?
I've seen the main journals like that from the car being in one, Nothing else wrong with the engine just some scarring on the mains.
Good video duder.
Huh, interesting suggestion! I have no idea, but it's quite possible. The donor truck was driven to a shop, the shop owner bought the engine, trans, and transfer case out of it, didn't need the engine and sold it to me. No idea what condition the truck was in other than that it still drove.
i strongly doubt a front end collision damages the crank shaft
Sometimes people way overrate machineshops and what they do. A machineshop wouldn't regrind that unless it has deeper scoring or pitting. They would just put it up in a rotating jig with a long sanding belt that would gently sand it down evenly.
Nice lookin channel!
These are my little buddies, haha...
You must go through A LOT of paper towels lol
Yessir, I briefly tried to switch to rags but I dirtied them up so bad most of them had to be thrown out anyway lol. Without an industrial cleaning service disposable, cheap, readily available paper towels are the way to go.
@FuzzyDicePimp try coffee filters cheaper and lint free to boot. Got that from jafrombile here on Facebook ( not associated)
love the series just wondering if a red shoe lace would work as well?
How did doing your own reconditioning like cylinder honing and crank polishing work out for you over time? Still running fine? Considering doing same for a Ford 302 5.0l rebuild myself.
So far so good, around 9k miles later. Not that I have taken it apart to check or anything, but oil still looks normal and the pressure seems fine. (Pressure gauge is a little dodgy.) If I had a similarly scored crank journal and cylinder walls on another low budget build, I'd do it again. Want to run another compression and leakdown test to see how it's don't but I haven't gotten around to it yet
the rod bearings spin in one direction too... It doesn't really matter which way you polish tho
What prompted this rebuild? What was the symptom that was so bad that made you want to go through all of this trouble to rebuild it?
The driver's side head gasket was blown, blowby was bad, and because it's what I had wanted to do in the first place. Didn't fancy changing a cylinder head in the truck (brake booster and some other things would probably have to come off) so it only made sense. I'm glad I did since (if nothing else), it made me realize that it had two different cylinder heads on it. Plus I'm a glutton for punishment and it apparently makes for good video content.
I am super glad I found your channel-- the content you make it interesting, so please, keep on punishing yourself.. xD
5:40 The rods actually only spin one direction on the journal, so you should polish it the right direction
5:39 The rod doesn't rotate in both directions, unless you've discovered a novel what to make the engine runbackwards.
Yeah you're right. I was fooled.
5:42 the rod is moving in both directions? How? 🤔
I made a mistake haha, it was very late when filming that and I didn't catch it when going through in editing. They absolutely do not, the rods move in both directions on the small end but not the crankshaft.
Fuzzy Dice Projects got it :)
Definitely just binge watched the whole build. Where in Md are you? I have a 350 swapped first gen s10
Nice! Montgomery County, Northwestern MD.
O wow I'm in the Annapolis area not too far from you. I'd love to see the build some time
Cool, I'd love to see yours! Some other locals have requested some sort of meetup, at some point I'll choose a car show or meet nearby for everyone to meet up at and make a video to announce it.
FuzzyDicePimp I'm down for that
How has the engine run after doing this? Did you have to get thicker bearings?
Could someone please help me understand, how can you resurface a cam shaft / cylinder heads / etc without adding metal. Let's say it has bad scratches, how do professionals fill those grooves??
A professional generally wouldn't fill the grooves at all, most parts can be ground and use thicker bearings but of course they can only be ground so far. If the scratches are deep enough, it would just need a new part. If it is just one scratch across a sealing surface that isn't incredibly vital, it is possible to weld over it and grind it back down flat to fill it, but it would have to be made very flat for something like a cylinder head.
Lol watched soundman do this with his Thunderbird worked like a charn
Did you have to use a different size bearing?
Polishing my shaft atm
Anybody know any hp numbers on a stock 350 with 993 heads, flat tapped cam and tbi injection?
Allen McKinney 210 Is what the factory claims, on the dyno they end up putting out about 195- 200 in my experience, the best thing to do to make it better is replace the stock cam with something like an RV cam or roller rocker and replace the crappy stock heads, other than that a bigger Y-pipe or just straight up duals will net you some power too
Kevin Gipe thanks. I got a set of 305 #601 54cc heads I've thought about using but I'm not sure how they will work out. Id be happy with 250-300hp but I also want it to last more than a few years.
Allen McKinney yeah I hear you lol, could always try it, I’ve never tried putting 305 heads on a 350 I just got the aftermarket or vortec heads, you can get a good set of 350 vortec heads for cheap from a junkyard off a 1996 or newer truck
Emory cloth works the best...
I'd used 4000 thefinger the polish the Less drag you can even get 3-4hp off a good crank polish and I mean dyno proven on engine matters and that's literally all they did same engine same day sneer gas sane parts same trq. It's worth it imo because if you gain 3-4 here and there 4 or 5 or 10 times you can get 20-40 hp gain and that's feelable gains it cost time but mostly very cheap mods
It does make sense that on a high end, low-clearance engine a real mirror finish could make a difference. Something worn out like this I was mostly using heavier grits to try to smooth out the grooves, but for an important engine build I can totally see it being worth it to take much more time and go to higher grits.
what number of sandpaper you used?
500
That spider almost bit your finger off.
Good woork amigo 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍💪😎 frome mexico city DF thang you.
My workshop is covered in spiders too..
Yeah! Spider Bro!
Please release a new video!!!
I just put up these four on Friday, haha, I can't make these videos any faster!
The dislikes were just Australians that thought they were giving you a like.
(I know I stole it please don't kill me)
Rember that one fight with my sister and the sully stuffed animal amd that was ur wepon good times- dislex unknown
That face on the paper towel at 6:25, looks creepy as all heck!-)
I went up to 2000 grit
I was told thats not how you use a mic
You said 2.437...
Why is it 2.447?
Maybe because they are 0.010 under
But they are still out of tolerance.
2.448" - 2.449 - 0.10" = 2.338" -2.439"
Yours is 2.4 37".....
That's at least .001" under the lowest and after will be at least 0.0025 -0.0035" I undersize!!!!
So I don't understand....
That's too much!!!
После такого "ремонта" мотор долго не проживет ...