Dude seriously please keep making videos like this. I'm building my first engine and have already made a lot of mistakes because I didn't know anything but watching your videos has help me immensely. Thanks for the great videos. P.S. i love the blazer
Mistakes are the best way to learn. But if you can avoid expensive ones, narrowly avoided mistakes are a pretty good way to learn too, haha! Glad you find this info helpful! As I mention repeatedly, the way I do things isn't always the ideal way to do things, so I would encourage you to read forums or watch other videos for detailed information and alternative methods, and decide what works best/makes the most sense to you!
dayyuu we're not all real mechanics, some of us are just hobbyists. I'd rather watch somebody do it then read about it so if that makes me a bum, then I guess guilty as charged. Maybe someday when I grow up I can be a real mechanic
Never knew there were 647 freeze and other assorted plugs and I have this motor in a truck. Thanks for detailing all of them and it also did my heart good to see you clean the block so thoroughly. Great work on these videos. I even like the background music.
Hey in the future drill a small hole in the soft plug center. Then use a sheet metal screw or bolt for an anchor point. Most of the time you can use a claw hammer or a slide hammer and they come right out.
Can't believe your going to all this trouble and your not replacing cam bearings. They are very easily replaced changed them for years in automotive machine shop. Other than that your job looks great. Have a nice day !!!!!!
I was told that the dingleball hone is really just for deglazing cylinders. You can easily taper or barrel your cylinders with that thing if you have to take off a lot lol.
Thanks, interesting tip! Hadn't thought of that before, I did have some problems getting it started in the past (neighbor gave it to me locked up), if I ever have that problem again I'll have to try that out!
Simpler way of removing freeze plugs is to knock them in then move them to the left or right and grab the lip with a pair of vice grips like you did with the adjustable pliers. Then you dont risk the chance of slipping with the adjustable pliers, Then you can roll them out with the leverage of the vice grips. These came out pretty easy, but some are a real bear to get out. Much less chance of busted knuckles. Much easier to do. Nice job and good video
Man I'd be worried about shavings blocking that front cam gallery. It's going to be hard to guarantee it's clear with the bearing still in there. When tapping those holes in the front of the case it's a good idea to stuff something (foam ear plugs work) in the holes. The plugs can be popped out from the other end when done.
Good thinking on plugging those holes, I honestly didn't think that far ahead haha. I sprayed the pressure washer, compressed air, and brake cleaner through that bearing from every passage (blocking others to direct the flow) in every direction, I'm pretty confident I got it all taken care of.
FuzzyDicePimp yeah after watching you flush it out I tend to agree:). Your block came out cleaner than anything Ive done myself. Looked like it was tanked at a machine shop.
in the future, if you arent gonna get the deck blocked, use a piece of wood with sandpaper to clean off the old gasket. using a die grinder with a wheel makes the surface uneven and can lead to failure of the head gasket.
You're right, and that is a good method for flattening a gasket surface, wouldn't be a bad idea to go through and do that after cleaning the gasket. A soft wire wheel is the best method I've found for removing pretty much any type of gasket though. These wheels won't last like the really hard ones will, but I even use them for cleaning gaskets off of aluminum and it gives the aluminum a nice shine, no real scratch pattern or anything. Absolutely no danger to iron.
They're steel, but it is very soft steel. Same wire as the brushes I used to clean the pistons in the other video. I understand what you're saying, but I'm not worried about it. Removing old gasket remnants would take ages and many sheets of sandpaper, but I'm sure it would do a fine job as well!
FuzzyDicePimp I uh, also have a other question, do you happen to remember the thread you used to chase the threads for the water temperature of sensor in the head? (If you've gone through the heads) I've gotta make an adapter for an ls swap and the Internet doesn't make any sense.
3/8-18 NPT, just double checked. Also, did a little searching to confirm, but the sandpaper method you suggested doesn't seem like a great idea. Surface finish only really matters for MLS head gaskets for high boost applications, and I don't think anything short of a machine shop would get the finish just right for those. Only time I've dealt with a MLS gasket was on an engine straight from the shop, so I don't really have experience with that surface finish concern. The block of wood and sandpaper is good in theory, and I've seen it suggested in rebuild manuals for carburetors and transmissions, but maybe a deck surface is too large to be able to reliably sand flat enough. Never tried that on a head gasket surface myself.
Good idea on cleaning the head bolts from all the the anti-seize i cant stress enough when i see someone just throwing brand new bolts down in them annnnd not cleaning them or even checking. Also all the mating surfaces wired wheel is exactly what you should do. Takes off any rtv or sealant on them ensure a good clean flat surface for a good seal 2 thumbs up!!
Awesome in-depth video, love the amount or effort you put into building stuff! One thing I would have done differently is using a stone type hone instead of a flex hone. The flex hone doesn't have structure, so it will simply mask the scuffs, scratches and pitting. It won't do anything to true the cylinder before you put new rings in it.
S10 was popular back in the ol'days & now with off road ,in a few years restored s10 might be worth like old muscle cars. So restoring a classic premium car is not a bad idea but depending how the chassis is good or bad.
you're right, shouldn't use a tap. one trick is take a bolt and grind a slot through all the threads. this will allow junk to build up in the recessed area and not damage your block threads.
Yep, you're right, that is a good solution. I have even done that before to chase threads, and have an extra set of head bolts since I broke one taking this apart. Why didn't I do that? Laziness. "It'll be fine" is a dangerous way of thinking haha.
Hopefully you won't have to do this again any time soon, but remember PB Blaster and/or Aero Kroil are your best friends, especially on those seized and mangled coolant plugs! Great work though, keep it up!
I did use PB for the stuck external ones, but I wasn't patient enough to let it sit long so really didn't give that a chance. If it didn't come out on the second try I would have let them soak before getting more aggressive. And, thanks!
I was walking around soaked and cold for a few hours after, no matter where I stand I always feel like I took a dip in the pool after cleaning something like this.
You can use a drill with a tap if you know what you're doing. As long as you're careful. Also you have to use the correct tap. A machine tap. I still use 4 fluids... I'm an old machinist. If it's under 3/8 I do it by hand.
You'd be amazed what you can get away with, haha! But seriously, those brushes are soft enough that they won't even scratch aluminum, it isn't a problem. For a stiff wire brush, you'd be absolutely right.
FuzzyDicePimp I know on some engines you definitely don't want to change the finish on the cylinder deck what so ever but I agree, you're probably just fine here
I've used roloc wheels more aggressive than these to clean a 7MGE block, those things blow head gaskets like they were designed to have oil in the coolant, hasn't been a problem yet. Just like anything else, I think as long as you are mindful of what you are doing it isn't a problem. If you don't run the die grinder on 150 PSI and lean on the thing like a pro wrestler it'll be friendlier to the surface than many other cleaning methods. EDIT: Also, this is a small block Chevy. I could remove the head gaskets with a chainsaw and it would still run until I roll the truck over haha
I know, right! I want a truck to drop a roll-off full of paper towels outside my garage. Between that and a WD-40 sponsorship, I wouldn't ever need anything else!
Good video, thank you. Only downside: Not great to clean the engine block in the grass! Pollution . All that was required was to carry the block to a suitable washing center.
You're right, but I'm fine with it as-is. I have four of the little batteries from combo deals, don't want to invest in the big batteries (though I do want the big XR impact, so I will have to eventually). Both the 20V drill and that impact driver seem like they are on their last legs, anyway.
If you're doing something like head bolt threads and you don't really want to run a tap down it a good trick is to grind or cut a groove lengthways into an old bolt and use that to chase the threads
Yep, a good tip! I have done that in the past (with mixed results) for odd bolt sizes where I didn't have a tap. Enough people yelled at me about using the tap that I'll have to try making a set of chasers for engine threads.
Run a hose to your house water heater. Run faucet 5 minutes. Turn temperature control to maximum. Wait till unit shuts off. Run power washer with that. Return setting when finished. Note: it's actually beneficial to the unit to flush out the tank periodically. An inline filter would be great, to. Chlorine will corrode cast iron.
You could have used the pipes cylindrical brush mounted on the drill to clean up the threads. When you use a tap in a tapped bore,you make it bigger and weaker,it just removes material ,not only crap.
A brush wouldn't remove the really tough sealant, that stuff was really on there. Would probably be good enough, though. A thread chaser, as I mention, is the proper tool for the job, as it would clean the threads without removing metal. You are correct that a tap will usually remove a bit of metal each time you run it through, so it is not the ideal solution.
I have brass brushes for my guns, but they wouldn't touch that sealant. Most people clean engine passages with brass brushes (I didn't because I left the cam bearings in and the engine was in decent shape). Threads should have a thread chaser though. Will probably make or buy one if I end up in this situation again, or have actually expensive engine parts to work on.
Some for coolant, some for oil. The threaded ones at the base of the block and the ones in the sides of the block (1-5/8") are for coolant passages, the other threaded ones and the big one (2-3/32") are for oil. The holes they close are used in the casting process, and necessary to make the block, but of course need to be sealed afterward for proper use of the engine. (I typed this to respond to another comment but I'm copy and pasting it here)
I checked cylinder bore with extreme accuracy and precision. (No, I didn't haha.) It is a good idea, and a real engine builder would of course want tools like that. For this engine? Doesn't matter what the cylinder bore specs are, I wouldn't do anything about it anyway. A dial bore gauge I should have for sure, but won't have one around for this build.
It's just a generic 90 degree air die grinder, I think I got this one for $5 on clearance at Tractor Supply. Harbor freight sells a nearly indistinguishable one for $10 or so, just don't expect them to last forever. The wire wheels I use are from Harbor Freight, $5 for a couple of them, and are soft enough that they won't scratch.
I made my own welsch plug removal tool, you tap in a thread to the plug screw in the tool spray some easy out around the plug and tighten it up till it bites and slides, then i unscrew them. easy.
Where would I buy plugs and these small “hard to find” I guess parts. Are they universal and at hardware stores? Or... I’m rebuilding my 4g63t on my eclipse next year so this would be helpful!🤷🏼♂️🤙🏻
For that particular engine, I don't really know unfortunately. For ubiquitous engines like small block Chevy's pretty much any parts store will have freeze plugs, but even then in this case I had to order online to get one of them for this 80's block. Searching around online is your best bet, websites like RockAuto are pretty useful for finding various parts, and eBay can be a lifesaver as well. Your setup shouldn't be too hard to find parts for, and online general automotive parts stores probably carry stuff like freeze plugs in all likelihood, and a good engine rebuild kit should include just about all of the other small parts (some even include freeze plugs).
I hate to say this but I am pretty sure you messed up some of those bolt hole threads using a power drill on that tap, not being a jerk but I've been through this process before and those old blocks love them old bolts and cheap taps have different pitch
No, heating the fastener is the correct method in this case. While a propane torch like he used often works, an oxy acetylene torch is better for both directing the flame and heating. Rather than trying to expand the block metal away from the fastener by heating the block, the purpose is to get the fastener extremely hot to both break any bonds through expansion/contraction and to allow penetrating oil to flood in around the threads. It's an age-old technique. The rustiest, most-seized fasteners will often times come loose if you get them red hot and immediately hit them with penetrating oil. You also get a buzz off the fumes as a bonus.
Another way to do this cleaning that I have seen on RUclips/used myself is to lay down a bunch of cardboard and use a compressed air cleaner to spray the whole block down with mineral spirits. The mineral spirits breaks down the gunk/oil it and drips onto the cardboard, and then it evaporates off, just leaving the gunk. Then throw it away or just burn it. Not perfect but no groundwater pollution. I live near streams and wouldn't use a pressure washer.
Good old Water Displacement 40th formula, aka WD-40. It was originally designed to be used by Convair to protect the outer skin which comprised the paper-thin balloon tanks of the Atlas missile from rust and corrosion.
The holes they close are used in the casting process as well as the drilling of oil galleys in the block afterward. Plugs are necessary to make the block, but of course need to be sealed afterward for proper use of the engine.
Hello Sir. I want to vapor blasting the cast iron block. What do's and don'ts I should know. Should I masking the engine block with tape and hole plug or there is no need. I use WD-40 after vapor blasting. Please tell me all about the vapor blasting process for engine parts.
I am not an expert and have never done vapor blasting myself or had it done to any of my parts. From what I understand, since the particles are so small, the surface finish after blasting is so fine that it isn't necessary to mask anything, not even threads or deck surfaces. I would suggest contacting a company that specializes in this process and asking them for tips, though.
@@bittainment5995 For vapor blasting I don't think you would have to mask anything and you'd want to have everything broken down, but for other types of blasting or painting you can see my usual taping process in the painting video done for this engine rebuild: ruclips.net/video/2iy8yUAEims/видео.html
Another good way to clean cylinder head bolt holes is to cut a groove into an old cylinder head bolt and use it as a chaser - does a better job at cleaning the thread and don't run the risk of cutting material away
Just search on a site like Amazon for "Flex hone", this particular one is a 4 1/8" 240 grit model. Make sure to get one just a little larger than the cylinders you are honing.
Use a wire coat hanger to clean out the v gallery at the bottom of a V8. Then buy round white brushes that go in a drill and clean out all the rust. It's the only way to do it. You can get them to go in all directions. Just saying.
What is shown in this video is pretty much all I filmed of it. Just some monotonous scrubbing of the crevices and a final scrub down with dish soap and water is really all that was left out.
Precisely! They block off areas where casting sand was used to make hollow areas and passages (like the water jackets) and where holes were drilled for oil passages.
I really enjoy these videos, but this dude cracks me up. Literally everything he does is followed by, "This isn't the best way, but whatever".
Jonas Bennett I'm agree with you this is not the way to fix a engine
That's the whole motto behind all my builds lmfao
@@leandrodiaz2440 There's many ways to build an engine.
This is the most in depth engine building video I've ever seen that still remains entertaining. Great job.
A dent puller works really well for remove freeze plugs
I'm new to your channel. I love the videos. It amazes me the amount of knowledge you have when it comes to cars. Keep up the good work!
Dude seriously please keep making videos like this. I'm building my first engine and have already made a lot of mistakes because I didn't know anything but watching your videos has help me immensely. Thanks for the great videos.
P.S. i love the blazer
Mistakes are the best way to learn. But if you can avoid expensive ones, narrowly avoided mistakes are a pretty good way to learn too, haha! Glad you find this info helpful! As I mention repeatedly, the way I do things isn't always the ideal way to do things, so I would encourage you to read forums or watch other videos for detailed information and alternative methods, and decide what works best/makes the most sense to you!
Go buy a repair manual like a real mechanic. Quit relying on youtube videos like some sort of bum.
dayyuu we're not all real mechanics, some of us are just hobbyists. I'd rather watch somebody do it then read about it so if that makes me a bum, then I guess guilty as charged. Maybe someday when I grow up I can be a real mechanic
I got a 2000 chevy blazer 2x4 i love it.
This is pure ASMR for my eyes. Love it! Good video!
Nice video man just did this about 2 months back on my 360 magnum in machine shop. You can never get them too clean!
Clean cylinders look sooo beautiful!
Beautiful job on getting that block cleaned up!
The brass brush through the oil ports is a great idea! I usually do those the hard way.
Never knew there were 647 freeze and other assorted plugs and I have this motor in a truck. Thanks for detailing all of them and it also did my heart good to see you clean the block so thoroughly. Great work on these videos. I even like the background music.
Hey in the future drill a small hole in the soft plug center. Then use a sheet metal screw or bolt for an anchor point. Most of the time you can use a claw hammer or a slide hammer and they come right out.
Good idea, that would be easier for some of them!
Can't believe your going to all this trouble and your not replacing cam bearings. They are very easily replaced changed them for years in automotive machine shop. Other than that your job looks great. Have a nice day !!!!!!
I would've change the cam bearings if you went that far.
I was told that the dingleball hone is really just for deglazing cylinders. You can easily taper or barrel your cylinders with that thing if you have to take off a lot lol.
oh hey look he's using WD-40 for it's actual intended purpose instead of as a lubricant or penetrating oil. neat.
Tears are a better lube then wd-40
PB Blaster > WD-40 (as a penetrating oil at least) also pb blaster loses points for looking like squirrel piss
The actual intended use… 🚀
“Don’t taste this rainbow.” Hahaha!
Great video man I like it when it is so thorough. Videos like this are hard to come by
Best build series on RUclips
Dude this is so satisfying. Keep it up!
The absolute Best diy video I have ever seen two thumbs up
Just a tip, hold the trigger on the water gun when you start the pressure washer. It makes it ten times easier to start
Thanks, interesting tip! Hadn't thought of that before, I did have some problems getting it started in the past (neighbor gave it to me locked up), if I ever have that problem again I'll have to try that out!
Why I have I not found your channel till today you've got great content
Simpler way of removing freeze plugs is to knock them in then move them to the left or right and grab the lip with a pair of vice grips like you did with the adjustable pliers. Then you dont risk the chance of slipping with the adjustable pliers, Then you can roll them out with the leverage of the vice grips. These came out pretty easy, but some are a real bear to get out. Much less chance of busted knuckles.
Much easier to do. Nice job and good video
Great job, very helpful video.
Man I'd be worried about shavings blocking that front cam gallery. It's going to be hard to guarantee it's clear with the bearing still in there. When tapping those holes in the front of the case it's a good idea to stuff something (foam ear plugs work) in the holes. The plugs can be popped out from the other end when done.
Good thinking on plugging those holes, I honestly didn't think that far ahead haha. I sprayed the pressure washer, compressed air, and brake cleaner through that bearing from every passage (blocking others to direct the flow) in every direction, I'm pretty confident I got it all taken care of.
FuzzyDicePimp yeah after watching you flush it out I tend to agree:). Your block came out cleaner than anything Ive done myself. Looked like it was tanked at a machine shop.
in the future, if you arent gonna get the deck blocked, use a piece of wood with sandpaper to clean off the old gasket. using a die grinder with a wheel makes the surface uneven and can lead to failure of the head gasket.
You're right, and that is a good method for flattening a gasket surface, wouldn't be a bad idea to go through and do that after cleaning the gasket. A soft wire wheel is the best method I've found for removing pretty much any type of gasket though. These wheels won't last like the really hard ones will, but I even use them for cleaning gaskets off of aluminum and it gives the aluminum a nice shine, no real scratch pattern or anything. Absolutely no danger to iron.
FuzzyDicePimp was it a brass one or a steel one? I bet you could get away with it, I just wouldn't. I'm too afraid of profiling the surface unevenly.
They're steel, but it is very soft steel. Same wire as the brushes I used to clean the pistons in the other video. I understand what you're saying, but I'm not worried about it. Removing old gasket remnants would take ages and many sheets of sandpaper, but I'm sure it would do a fine job as well!
FuzzyDicePimp I uh, also have a other question, do you happen to remember the thread you used to chase the threads for the water temperature of sensor in the head? (If you've gone through the heads) I've gotta make an adapter for an ls swap and the Internet doesn't make any sense.
3/8-18 NPT, just double checked.
Also, did a little searching to confirm, but the sandpaper method you suggested doesn't seem like a great idea. Surface finish only really matters for MLS head gaskets for high boost applications, and I don't think anything short of a machine shop would get the finish just right for those. Only time I've dealt with a MLS gasket was on an engine straight from the shop, so I don't really have experience with that surface finish concern. The block of wood and sandpaper is good in theory, and I've seen it suggested in rebuild manuals for carburetors and transmissions, but maybe a deck surface is too large to be able to reliably sand flat enough. Never tried that on a head gasket surface myself.
Smart not to over-do the honing on that bad cyl.
You do great work!
Good idea on cleaning the head bolts from all the the anti-seize i cant stress enough when i see someone just throwing brand new bolts down in them annnnd not cleaning them or even checking. Also all the mating surfaces wired wheel is exactly what you should do. Takes off any rtv or sealant on them ensure a good clean flat surface for a good seal 2 thumbs up!!
LOL "you wouldn't be acting like this if you were me real son" LOL
Made me laugh so hard I was drinking water and it came out thru my nose.
6:10 for this quote
Good video man. Enjoyed it.
A great tool for deck scraping, and a all around great tool to have, a Super Scraper SS-1
That was a very satisfying clean up. Good job
"You see there I exceeded the Heat-Rating for the RTV Silicone ... LOL"
Good stuff man!
I bet these videos are really helpful when putting it back together
Awesome in-depth video, love the amount or effort you put into building stuff! One thing I would have done differently is using a stone type hone instead of a flex hone. The flex hone doesn't have structure, so it will simply mask the scuffs, scratches and pitting. It won't do anything to true the cylinder before you put new rings in it.
I’m seriously exhausted just watching these videos . I know you must enjoy the challenge , but good grief , all this for an S10 , no way
S10 was popular back in the ol'days & now with off road ,in a few years restored s10 might be worth like old muscle cars.
So restoring a classic premium car is not a bad idea but depending how the chassis is good or bad.
No, it will never be a valuable vehicle for a lot of reasons.
@@danieltubbs5422 ---A different Value! Good vehicles.
Great video man.
holy shit the tap on the power drill had my butt cleanched! thats some risky business right there!
you're right, shouldn't use a tap. one trick is take a bolt and grind a slot through all the threads. this will allow junk to build up in the recessed area and not damage your block threads.
Yep, you're right, that is a good solution. I have even done that before to chase threads, and have an extra set of head bolts since I broke one taking this apart. Why didn't I do that? Laziness. "It'll be fine" is a dangerous way of thinking haha.
Or undersized taps.
Probably the most hilarious 350 rebuild on RUclips
Hopefully you won't have to do this again any time soon, but remember PB Blaster and/or Aero Kroil are your best friends, especially on those seized and mangled coolant plugs! Great work though, keep it up!
I did use PB for the stuck external ones, but I wasn't patient enough to let it sit long so really didn't give that a chance. If it didn't come out on the second try I would have let them soak before getting more aggressive. And, thanks!
Seems like I just did this stuff... I think I got wetter than the block and I was not even using a pressure washer. Dingle ball hone for the win!
I was walking around soaked and cold for a few hours after, no matter where I stand I always feel like I took a dip in the pool after cleaning something like this.
hahahaha the journey quest reference. i know this is long past the vid, but i love Glorian.
That was an awesome video.
THATS WHAT SHE SAID !!!Soooo many jokes screaming in my head when he was honing the cylinders.
It's really a perfect job!
Pleasure to watch. Keep going
Machinist here, all was good till you used that drill with the tap. On any potentially destructive jobs use your hands.
totally agree
Its fine if he set his chuck right
I was thinking the same thing. Would it have took that much longer to do it manually.
I'm no machinist, but it appeared he only used the drill once it was trapped out to insert the plug?
You can use a drill with a tap if you know what you're doing.
As long as you're careful.
Also you have to use the correct tap.
A machine tap.
I still use 4 fluids...
I'm an old machinist.
If it's under 3/8 I do it by hand.
Love it man. ! keep it up.
Not sure if taking a wire brush to the cylinder deck where the head gasket sets is the best idea, you really don't want to change that surface finish
You'd be amazed what you can get away with, haha! But seriously, those brushes are soft enough that they won't even scratch aluminum, it isn't a problem. For a stiff wire brush, you'd be absolutely right.
FuzzyDicePimp I know on some engines you definitely don't want to change the finish on the cylinder deck what so ever but I agree, you're probably just fine here
I've used roloc wheels more aggressive than these to clean a 7MGE block, those things blow head gaskets like they were designed to have oil in the coolant, hasn't been a problem yet. Just like anything else, I think as long as you are mindful of what you are doing it isn't a problem. If you don't run the die grinder on 150 PSI and lean on the thing like a pro wrestler it'll be friendlier to the surface than many other cleaning methods.
EDIT: Also, this is a small block Chevy. I could remove the head gaskets with a chainsaw and it would still run until I roll the truck over haha
Hi, im from Germany, and i Like your Videos so much!
👍
Nice. Love that oil in the groundwater!
You really should talk to like ShopTowels or Bounty to get a paper towel sponsorship.
I know, right! I want a truck to drop a roll-off full of paper towels outside my garage. Between that and a WD-40 sponsorship, I wouldn't ever need anything else!
Great info! Thanks!
Awesome videos brother !
Good video, thank you. Only downside: Not great to clean the engine block in the grass! Pollution . All that was required was to carry the block to a suitable washing center.
Schön das ganze Zeug ins Grundwasser, super 💪🏻Aktion
Wenn man das bei uns machen würde...
Und dann noch ins Netz stellen, kannst davon ausgehen, dass die Anzeige schneller käme als du gucken kannst.
Egal
If you get a higher amp hour battery for that impact it’ll gain a little power and a lot more run time
You're right, but I'm fine with it as-is. I have four of the little batteries from combo deals, don't want to invest in the big batteries (though I do want the big XR impact, so I will have to eventually). Both the 20V drill and that impact driver seem like they are on their last legs, anyway.
If you're doing something like head bolt threads and you don't really want to run a tap down it a good trick is to grind or cut a groove lengthways into an old bolt and use that to chase the threads
Yep, a good tip! I have done that in the past (with mixed results) for odd bolt sizes where I didn't have a tap. Enough people yelled at me about using the tap that I'll have to try making a set of chasers for engine threads.
Run a hose to your house water heater. Run faucet 5 minutes. Turn temperature control to maximum. Wait till unit shuts off. Run power washer with that. Return setting when finished. Note: it's actually beneficial to the unit to flush out the tank periodically. An inline filter would be great, to. Chlorine will corrode cast iron.
Setting something on fire is the best way to clean it, I recommend
Wooooww.. perfect job.
Sweet man. You do a great job videoing.
You could have used the pipes cylindrical brush mounted on the drill to clean up the threads.
When you use a tap in a tapped bore,you make it bigger and weaker,it just removes material ,not only crap.
A brush wouldn't remove the really tough sealant, that stuff was really on there. Would probably be good enough, though. A thread chaser, as I mention, is the proper tool for the job, as it would clean the threads without removing metal. You are correct that a tap will usually remove a bit of metal each time you run it through, so it is not the ideal solution.
There are metallic brushes for rifling /barrels for guns wich are really tough and quite hard.
Maybe it can help you.
I have brass brushes for my guns, but they wouldn't touch that sealant. Most people clean engine passages with brass brushes (I didn't because I left the cam bearings in and the engine was in decent shape). Threads should have a thread chaser though. Will probably make or buy one if I end up in this situation again, or have actually expensive engine parts to work on.
wire brush will not back out.
i should have said a wire brush will not back out of threads unless you can go all the way past the thread, the bristles wont bend backwards.
I love your videos.
You're the MAN!
On steel freeze plugs just weld a bolt to them head down threads up screw on the slide hammer and pop them right out
Great vid man
I dip my head bolts in high tack but most times i stud the heads . nice video.
Good ole ATF while honing
This makes me want to go get a 350 and put it in my Honda! LOL
Nice job!
Cool job man
what are the plugs for
Some for coolant, some for oil. The threaded ones at the base of the block and the ones in the sides of the block (1-5/8") are for coolant passages, the other threaded ones and the big one (2-3/32") are for oil. The holes they close are used in the casting process, and necessary to make the block, but of course need to be sealed afterward for proper use of the engine.
(I typed this to respond to another comment but I'm copy and pasting it here)
thankyou for explaining
MN SHP they also serve a secondary purpose! If the coolant freezes, there is a chance the plug will pop out instead of cracking the block!
Do you have a set of snap gauges? To check cylinder bore?
I checked cylinder bore with extreme accuracy and precision. (No, I didn't haha.) It is a good idea, and a real engine builder would of course want tools like that. For this engine? Doesn't matter what the cylinder bore specs are, I wouldn't do anything about it anyway. A dial bore gauge I should have for sure, but won't have one around for this build.
FuzzyDicePimp sorry for the late response. Working my ass off .
Makes sense to me bud !
Have fun and good luck
Can we get a kickstarter going to get you some new gloves?
The tool you use at 17:24 for polishing, can you tell me where I can find one of those?
It's just a generic 90 degree air die grinder, I think I got this one for $5 on clearance at Tractor Supply. Harbor freight sells a nearly indistinguishable one for $10 or so, just don't expect them to last forever. The wire wheels I use are from Harbor Freight, $5 for a couple of them, and are soft enough that they won't scratch.
Why are there plugs? 2:10 Is there a reason there are plugs there and not something else or was it for machining purposes?
You've got it, most of the plugs cover passages used in the block casting and drilling process.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects Awesome. Thanks for the reply. Def subbed.
I made my own welsch plug removal tool, you tap in a thread to the plug screw in the tool spray some easy out around the plug and tighten it up till it bites and slides, then i unscrew them. easy.
A tip for future projects is to get a dustless blaster
Where would I buy plugs and these small “hard to find” I guess parts. Are they universal and at hardware stores? Or... I’m rebuilding my 4g63t on my eclipse next year so this would be helpful!🤷🏼♂️🤙🏻
For that particular engine, I don't really know unfortunately. For ubiquitous engines like small block Chevy's pretty much any parts store will have freeze plugs, but even then in this case I had to order online to get one of them for this 80's block. Searching around online is your best bet, websites like RockAuto are pretty useful for finding various parts, and eBay can be a lifesaver as well.
Your setup shouldn't be too hard to find parts for, and online general automotive parts stores probably carry stuff like freeze plugs in all likelihood, and a good engine rebuild kit should include just about all of the other small parts (some even include freeze plugs).
I hate to say this but I am pretty sure you messed up some of those bolt hole threads using a power drill on that tap, not being a jerk but I've been through this process before and those old blocks love them old bolts and cheap taps have different pitch
how did you make sure to get all the water out of the galleys and crevices??
For the plug at 5:00 wouldn't it make more sense to heat the block around the plug to expand it. Not Expand the plug?
No, heating the fastener is the correct method in this case. While a propane torch like he used often works, an oxy acetylene torch is better for both directing the flame and heating. Rather than trying to expand the block metal away from the fastener by heating the block, the purpose is to get the fastener extremely hot to both break any bonds through expansion/contraction and to allow penetrating oil to flood in around the threads. It's an age-old technique. The rustiest, most-seized fasteners will often times come loose if you get them red hot and immediately hit them with penetrating oil. You also get a buzz off the fumes as a bonus.
Another way to do this cleaning that I have seen on RUclips/used myself is to lay down a bunch of cardboard and use a compressed air cleaner to spray the whole block down with mineral spirits. The mineral spirits breaks down the gunk/oil it and drips onto the cardboard, and then it evaporates off, just leaving the gunk. Then throw it away or just burn it. Not perfect but no groundwater pollution. I live near streams and wouldn't use a pressure washer.
Seems like a good strategy! Hadn't heard of the cardboard catch idea before, I like it! Might well have to try that in the future!
Good old Water Displacement 40th formula, aka WD-40.
It was originally designed to be used by Convair to protect the outer skin which comprised the paper-thin balloon tanks of the Atlas missile from rust and corrosion.
4 part video dump hell yeah!
Did you remove the ridge on top of the cylinders first before you took out the pistons
Why are there so many plugs on the engine? Why not just leave the holes out to begin with? Are they inspection holes or something?
The holes they close are used in the casting process as well as the drilling of oil galleys in the block afterward. Plugs are necessary to make the block, but of course need to be sealed afterward for proper use of the engine.
Hello Sir. I want to vapor blasting the cast iron block. What do's and don'ts I should know. Should I masking the engine block with tape and hole plug or there is no need. I use WD-40 after vapor blasting. Please tell me all about the vapor blasting process for engine parts.
I am not an expert and have never done vapor blasting myself or had it done to any of my parts. From what I understand, since the particles are so small, the surface finish after blasting is so fine that it isn't necessary to mask anything, not even threads or deck surfaces. I would suggest contacting a company that specializes in this process and asking them for tips, though.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects Thanks a lot. Sir I want to know all about how to mask engine parts like block, head, valve cover etc.
@@bittainment5995 For vapor blasting I don't think you would have to mask anything and you'd want to have everything broken down, but for other types of blasting or painting you can see my usual taping process in the painting video done for this engine rebuild: ruclips.net/video/2iy8yUAEims/видео.html
Another good way to clean cylinder head bolt holes is to cut a groove into an old cylinder head bolt and use it as a chaser - does a better job at cleaning the thread and don't run the risk of cutting material away
Yep, good thinking! I have made chasers for various things that way in the past, should probably just make a dedicated set for engine bolt threads.
what's the brush you use to clean the cinder?
where to get it?
Tell me plzz..
Just search on a site like Amazon for "Flex hone", this particular one is a 4 1/8" 240 grit model. Make sure to get one just a little larger than the cylinders you are honing.
you know you could make your own thread chasers by modifying an old bolt
Yep, and I've done it before, which worked in a pinch. I'd recommend that, but I was too lazy. Next time though.
Did this engine ever have Dex-cool antifreeze? Looks like the carnage from dexcool
Use a wire coat hanger to clean out the v gallery at the bottom of a V8.
Then buy round white brushes that go in a drill and clean out all the rust.
It's the only way to do it.
You can get them to go in all directions. Just saying.
Wire brushes
Nice job
Can you post more footage of the engine cleaning?
What is shown in this video is pretty much all I filmed of it. Just some monotonous scrubbing of the crevices and a final scrub down with dish soap and water is really all that was left out.
Damn I was looking for S8 V10.
What the name of the part you use in the block to clean it not the wd40 the thing you use on the drill where can you buy it from eBay or some where
What is the purpose of all those plugs? are they remnants from the casting process of the engine block?
Precisely! They block off areas where casting sand was used to make hollow areas and passages (like the water jackets) and where holes were drilled for oil passages.