You confirmed my experiment. My 017 is my favorite limbing saw. I traded out the .043 for a .050 just because I think the bigger kerf is more forgiving or visible with movement so you’re less likely to pinch your bar in the tree. I also thought putting a 7 on would make it faster/better, but the standard 6 is still the best for this one. That GB bar you have is sexxxy though!
If you are gonna go to a heavier bigger chain. You need to go down a bar size . To keep chain speed similar . The oem carb is non adjustable on this saw .
Great vid mate, would be interesting to see the difference if the 0.50 bar and chain was 14" instead. I wouldn't be surprised if it performed better then!
Great video. It was really interesting to see the differences there. I had often wondered about using different bars and chain types. I use a long Stihl bar on my MS290 so that I can tackle larger trees. Here in British Columbia I'm mostly cutting Spruce, Pine and Douglas Fir. For sharpening I use the combination tool from Stihl which does the rakers at the same time as the cutting tooth and I've had great results from that. Your safety chaps and boots are different from the ones I have. I use orange rubber chainsaw boots by Stihl and chainsaw trousers rather than chaps as they give me all round protection. Would be good to see a review on your safety gear too.
Very interesting, I would have figured the larger chain would have made it a lot worse then it did. I don’t know why I keep messing around with this saw it’s a dog and nothing you can do will change that, but we keep trying don’t we.
My MS170 bought this June 2020 in BC Canada came stock with a 16" Rollomatic E bar 3/8" pico .050, part # 3005 000 4813, 6 tooth drive sprocket on the powerhead, and it cuts great. What I like is the nice wood chips thrown out, I prefer the 3/8 pico to the .325 chain on the Ms261 I have.
Wow! I would agree with science here concerning the small saw with the bigger chain but it is common in the States to move up to the 3/8 inch chain. There are even videos on RUclips of others doing that and getting better results. With that I am left to assume that the bar you are using the problem. I am not fa.iliar with that brand so I have no real idea if it is a good one or could be the problem. Thanks for the detailed video just the same.
Cumbersome to wear, difficult to keep up and no use for active work. I suggest a pair of proper fitted chainsaw trousers are much better for ease of use.
As you see at the start both chains are easily sharpened consistently by machine. The smaller chain having less material to start with will therefore wear out quicker, mainly due to more frequent sharpening.
The stock bar and chain seem to be slightly faster. But I'm not concerned about a few seconds. What other advantages does the heavier bar and chain have? Does the chain retain sharpness longer? I've only run one tank of fuel through my MS170 so far, but I like a backup bar and chain and I don't know if I should get the .050 or .043 gauge. (Or 16" vs. 14" for that matter.)
Good question. I think it is purely a ‘feel’ thing, a person preference, rather than a performance improvement. Also depends on what you are doing with the saw. Doing this I’ve proved to myself that I needn’t have changed anything. The vital and key point to note for this saw is to keep the chain perfectly sharp so if you are going to buy anything, get another chain to swap out in the field...
One of the most comprehensive videos I’ve seen on saw chain performance.
You confirmed my experiment. My 017 is my favorite limbing saw. I traded out the .043 for a .050 just because I think the bigger kerf is more forgiving or visible with movement so you’re less likely to pinch your bar in the tree. I also thought putting a 7 on would make it faster/better, but the standard 6 is still the best for this one. That GB bar you have is sexxxy though!
I wonder would a 12 inch bar cut faster on the MS170? my MS170 came with a 14 inch bar, 50 link Picco chain. Great video, subbed.
Seems the picco and 6 point sprocket are well suited for that saw
Yes but the picco is really shitty when cutting a bunch of wood of different types. It dulls fairly fast as well
If you are gonna go to a heavier bigger chain. You need to go down a bar size . To keep chain speed similar . The oem carb is non adjustable on this saw .
Great vid mate, would be interesting to see the difference if the 0.50 bar and chain was 14" instead.
I wouldn't be surprised if it performed better then!
Jamie m glad you enjoyed it. Just to clarify, the bars are the same length in the video.
Great video. It was really interesting to see the differences there. I had often wondered about using different bars and chain types. I use a long Stihl bar on my MS290 so that I can tackle larger trees. Here in British Columbia I'm mostly cutting Spruce, Pine and Douglas Fir. For sharpening I use the combination tool from Stihl which does the rakers at the same time as the cutting tooth and I've had great results from that. Your safety chaps and boots are different from the ones I have. I use orange rubber chainsaw boots by Stihl and chainsaw trousers rather than chaps as they give me all round protection. Would be good to see a review on your safety gear too.
Very interesting, I would have figured the larger chain would have made it a lot worse then it did. I don’t know why I keep messing around with this saw it’s a dog and nothing you can do will change that, but we keep trying don’t we.
My MS170 bought this June 2020 in BC Canada came stock with a 16" Rollomatic E bar 3/8" pico .050, part # 3005 000 4813, 6 tooth drive sprocket on the powerhead, and it cuts great. What I like is the nice wood chips thrown out, I prefer the 3/8 pico to the .325 chain on the Ms261 I have.
Wow! I would agree with science here concerning the small saw with the bigger chain but it is common in the States to move up to the 3/8 inch chain. There are even videos on RUclips of others doing that and getting better results. With that I am left to assume that the bar you are using the problem. I am not fa.iliar with that brand so I have no real idea if it is a good one or could be the problem.
Thanks for the detailed video just the same.
Nothing much wrong with the GB brand bar. It would be interesting to see someone else do similar tests for comparison.
Top video , top mann ,top chinsaw test. Lg Swiss mech
How do you like those Stihl chainsaw chaps? are they comfortable to work in and get on and off?
Cumbersome to wear, difficult to keep up and no use for active work. I suggest a pair of proper fitted chainsaw trousers are much better for ease of use.
One other thing that concerns me is that I think the .325 chian is harder to sharpen and much shorter lived than the 3/8 chain.
As you see at the start both chains are easily sharpened consistently by machine. The smaller chain having less material to start with will therefore wear out quicker, mainly due to more frequent sharpening.
The stock bar and chain seem to be slightly faster. But I'm not concerned about a few seconds. What other advantages does the heavier bar and chain have? Does the chain retain sharpness longer? I've only run one tank of fuel through my MS170 so far, but I like a backup bar and chain and I don't know if I should get the .050 or .043 gauge. (Or 16" vs. 14" for that matter.)
Good question. I think it is purely a ‘feel’ thing, a person preference, rather than a performance improvement. Also depends on what you are doing with the saw. Doing this I’ve proved to myself that I needn’t have changed anything. The vital and key point to note for this saw is to keep the chain perfectly sharp so if you are going to buy anything, get another chain to swap out in the field...