Hey man thanks, the way you explained how to take the parts off and replace them was perfect. Explaining as you showed in detail works. Where when some people explain things you'll see a bunch of squiggly lines and then the parts will be off. That may be all in good for people that know what they're doing. But a beginner like myself appreciates the way you take the time and explain and show and you show each step thank you .
Awesome video. I do carvings and I use the ms170 and ms180 for my detail saws. How RUclips is such a helpful tool that I wish I had when I was younger. The things I could have been taught and knowledge on here is so priceless. Thank u
My father law gave me this model last summer when we moved into a house with a ton of midsize trees we wanted taken down. I've been very happy with it, it's cut much larger trunks than I expected. I'll be doing the upgrades, I can't stand where the tensioner is mainly because I've burnt my hand on the hot chain trying to get in there. Anyways, great video! I like the easy straight to the point approach. You've gain another viewer. Take care.
all links produce 403 error, nice tips thanks for that. If you screw down the blade finally, you should raise the tip of the blade with your left hand to eliminate all play that is in the construction and prevent it from comming loose for that reason.
After watching this video I installed the pieces on my 023 Stihl. It worked great, so much easier to tighten the chain thru the side cover. Thank you and a great video....
@@BitsandWood If you wanna help people, tell them to stop saying blade when referring to a CHAINsaw, lead by example, anyone who says blade when referring to chainsaws is opening themselves up for ridicule because they immediately sound like they know nothing about chainsaws. You said blade tensioner, what exactly are you referring to? The bar? The chain? Neither are blades. The bar is fixed, the chain tensions, so if one of your followers goes into a shop and asks for a new blade for their chainsaw, what exactly are they asking for? A chainsaw doesn't have a blade. Please just get it right, you say you're trying to help people, so don't say blade when you're talking chainsaws please, it's counterproductive and not helpful. Learn your bar, learn where the tip is, respect the possibility of kickback, because a chain doesn't cut like a blade, it cuts like a chain, there's a very grotesque difference when the bar and chain come in contact with human flesh, the chain cuts far more aggressively than a blade. This is the reason I stress that a chainsaw isn't a blade, a cut separates and cuts clean, a chain removes material with a wider cut, saying blade is dangerous and erroneous, chainsaws make a mess of flesh and I think saying blade doesn't encourage people to be extra careful of the kickback of a bar and chain. It's not a blade, it's more dangerous than that and deserves to be referred to correctly.
@@BitsandWood I guess it’s about respect, respect the saw, respect the dangers involved, respect the terminology. It’s not a blade, it’s a chainsaw, it’s a whole different animal and so you wouldn’t call a black bear a koala bear, because they are different animals with different dangers. You wanna call a chainsaw a blade? Go ahead and be wilfully ignorant, but I think you went out of your way to learn dog spikes and called yourself a word nerd and then don’t wanna say bar or chain because you are wilfully ignorant and proud of it, but your viewers should demand better than that and you should have more respect for yourself and your viewers than to willingly steer them wrong. A chainsaw doesn’t have a blade.
Thanks, I been looking all over google for the dogs and all I been able to find was charging way more than they are worth. Ordered from your link and with shipping the dog and screws was cheaper than anybody else for just the dog.
I was actually embarrassed to walk through the shop when I bought my MS170 because I run bigger pro level saws, but boy, it's a cool little saw and does the job.
I've got a few of those MS170's they are a good small saw, and have their place. I like to have two bars, one short one (I found an 8" one for when I'm camping) and one L O N G one. (the longest I've found is 24" that fits that little unit it doesn't take much power to pull the chain, only when it is in wood, so as long as you don't cut huge trees with it, the longer bar saves your back when limbing. For felling big stuff, I have bigger saws.
Chain looks tad to snug yet and when tightening bar always apply upward pressure the bar because if you don't when using the bottom of the bar it'll move a little and tighten the chain up and making it have too much tension on the chain
I've a ms170 with 14 inch bar. Its my only saw as I'm not a farmer. I get logs from a relative and can cut a full trailer load over a few hours. Great wee saw. Gonna get those dogs
I liked the tips. I placed to orders with Farmer Tec which is a Chinese company. The good news they are very good with communication. Both the order detail and shipping status, the bad news, I placed the first order on the 9th of Feb and second on the 23rd of Feb. I still have not received either order, the 23rd is in transit by air, so maybe it will show up soon. But the first order still have not left China. The parts are very inexpensive but the shipping is about the same price as the parts, no big deal. If you are ordering for tune-up then they wouldn't be my go to again. But I did order a couple T27 wrenches and chainsaw tools for less than a buck a piece. So I am good and may buy from them again once I get the parts and see the quality.
There is one more upgrade that will change the way your saw cuts. My MS180C uses the same bar and chain as the MS170/171 series. I installed the 18" bar and chain from the MS211 series which gives you the .050 3/8 Picco that is a more aggressive and stronger bar and chain. After I did this swap I had an opportunity to test it out after high winds came through and snapped limbs off and blew some trees down. Suffice it to say that it took a lot less effort to cut through limbs and tree trunks than it did before.
Or just get u a tungsten carbide chain & bar that's what I did. Not cheap but stays sharp and more portable for offhand & harder overhead horizontal cuts etc ..
I've been wanting to buy a 170 did not like the chain tensioner all the falling teeth great video thank you much I own five of the saws going to buy me a 170 now thank you much
Yepp, that's awesome. Have the same upgrades. In my opinion tho, the most value for the buck on a 017 018 170 and 180 is buying a adjustable carb, and opening up the muffler abit. The adjustable carbs u can buy aftermarket chinese versions they are solid and works well. That saw runs so good with a little muffler mod and tuning. The one i have is 24 yrs old and my dad has abused it for many years until he just didnt need it anymore. It was in a open garage for 5 yrs and was in horrible condition. Beside the heavy oil leak under, the piston was scored, piston ring stuck, rusty and would not start at all.. i gave it some love, changed the filters gave it a new oil hose underneath, thats where most 017 leaks the oil...new adjustable carb and it just started and has been running since... I dont actually understand the deal with scored pistons and stuck rings. From everything i have read and watched the saw shouldnt start with those "deep" scratches on the piston. But it does and it cuts so good. I have ms 261 cm aswell but i just love this small 017 for limbing and smaller jobs... Throttle feels so responsive after opening the muffler and playing with the low jet.... Even if it blows up today i will still love it
@@BitsandWood there's definitely a lot that can be done with them. If you really want to mod it out, you can do porting work, a muffler mod, and timing advance. Do a bit too much on porting or advancing the timing and it'll kill it, though.
I put both the side adjust and steel dogs on my new ms 170. I would have put some white lithium grease on the adjuster before I put it in. I also put Loctite on the screws holding both the bucking spikes and the chain adjuster.
Yes: _It's a great saw._ looking for plausible some channel suggests R&R with a 50 gauge bar … last few days I get the FS56RC running right by discovering to clean the spark arrest + reason for not using alcohol fuel is alcohol takes water from the air and that deteriorates small carb parts then "trick" to use of Stihl MS 170 Chainsaw is light touch feather weight and let the engine do the work shifting in and out of the cut to make additional room
Atf might not have the stickiness amd lubrication properties as well as bar oil, maybe to clean out the system if youre chopping small stuff. And bar oil to fell larger trees the bar oil also cleans and breaks up the sap. @ChiDraconis
Looks like a 16". The felling dogs are nice but they will allow you to put too much leverage on the chain and bar on that saw. This saw has the green master link, light duty. Switch to the yellow, thicker chain and matching bar. Otherwise, there's a good chance the guide on the bar will wear fast, causing the chain to get thrown off. It's worth the upgrade
Try cleaning that cover and inside w non-flammable brake cleaner spray cans....let it soak in for few minutes, use old toothbrush in hard to reach nooks and crannies, then blow out w an airgun. Typically I clean saw every 3rd use...either spray everything w Teflon, silicone or ceramic spray wax ...helps oil and sawdust not adhere to surfaces as much, less problems too.
@@Hammerback0 I tried silicone, it does not last as long. Best is Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic Spray wax...use TINY spritz ...buff in well, take clean cloth to polish....allow 24 to cure....repeat for second coat....literally takes less than 60 seconds to spritz, buff polish ....It works BETTER than Teflon....just use brake cleaner to remove all gunk so surface is clean first.. U will notice bar oil with chips adheres less around sprockets, cover, and plastic or metal surfaces....what is there wipes off easily....U also will notice chips fly out easier, less clogging. Every time I swap chains I use this process....been doing this for over a yr on all my saws...not perfect but better than anything else I have tried.
if you have a sharp chain, you don't need any Dawgs. also, the MS170 is prone to clogging the spark arrestor. I have found (surprisingly) that the stock, NON-ADJUSTABLE (high side) carburetor is actually too rich. you cannot get a fully adjustable STOCK carburetor any more, and strangely enough the O17 stihl saw had a fully adjustable carb, but changed the design to utilize with the new air filter assembly. BUT THEY KEPT THE SAME PART NUMBER, which is strange because usually manufacturing changes results in a new part number. you have 2 choices- find a decent 017 carb and put the 2 together, or take a chance on a Chinese aftermarket one, which I did. been over a year now and my MS 170 runs great. it's definitely not a #1 firewood getter, but for small stuff and limbing, it's awesome. only 1 of 9 saws i have, 5 used regularly
In the UK here but just found the same parts from sellers here for similar prices - Ordered! That front chain adjust is a pain in the proverbial! That part at the the end, where you hack the top of the log with the axe... That's where the baby Stihl was crying out to be used! :)
@@BitsandWood 100% Since I got that saw I find myself using it for everything - So mall & controllable and warms up super fast so I don't mind starting it up for one cut!
I noticed some one using gravity when milling. Basically, letting the saw go down hill as you cut. (Lean log down) also went even as far as to use a pulley, log tied to a string to add gravity feed. Made better cuts S the chIn was never forced. Just thought it was cool.
I dont care for tensioner bolt head rubbing on lumber when your motorhouse deep ,could loosen chain after mass friction.I love the dogs brada!!Your awesome and sorry about the idiots chiming in.Thankyou im gonna upgrade after my 170 purchase
Great video and as soon as I had watched it decided to get those upgrades done to my ms170 But as normal I live in the great uk So the chain tensioner would cost me approximately £55 That’s not going to happen Shame as great upgrade
One thing i have done (bar the felling dogs & side adjuster upgrade), is to pull the spark arrestor out of the muffler, and cut the "drilled" section out of the muffler itself with a dremel
@@BitsandWood Seems a tad more "rev happy" when hogging into the thicker timber we have here in Australia, doesnt seem more torquey at all, i think if the carby was more adjustable you could make a big difference. Being 2 stroke, it can still rely on the scavenging effect without losing all the back pressure as the louvered section is still in place, creating that bit of required back pressure that 2 strokes need. Stihl must just put the spark arrestor screens in to cover their backside- if you have your wits about you, you will know if something is burning (and my ride on mower & trailer have an extinguisher on board, and they arent far from the saw)
Nice one Mr Sawdust.............can't remember your name, did I ever know? They are some top upgrades. The "felling dogs" (didn't know that) will make a big difference. And the chain adjustment - I hate those screws at the front. Cheers
Don Finch Thanks. Come to think of it, I’m not sure I’ve ever mentioned my name. It’s Jeremiah, like the Old Testament prophet and the old Robert Redford movie, ‘Jeremiah Johnson’. My mother says those two things are what I was named after. Not the ‘Johnson’ part though, my family name is Rodriguez. 😉
Because you got the proportionate benefit of high testosterone. Nature maintains equilibrium. Male PB comes from hi levels of Dihi-Testosterone, a chemical which we all have but higher levels cause MPB, which although harmful to hair growth always occurs with similar levels of regular test.
I would check out Steve's Small Engine Repair channel. I always go to his videos when I have chainsaw/mower/weed eater issues. ruclips.net/video/M6T5JoGXcHY/видео.html
Nice job.... And too, I will not be affected too much if someone else tells ya Not to quit yer day job. As a brand new sub, I find your mix of some elements of humor entertaining. (Second Place Class Clown here, we might battled for the title in a different life, lol)... I'm all wore out at 67 and my rotator cuffs are shot not providing me the stuff to start the bigger saws. I'm off-grid, homebound way up a mountain so your work/experience is big time helpful in making my MS 170 purchase be done right the first time... upgrades noted. So I'm sayin' thanks and gettin' ready to dig around in your video selection to see what else piques my curiosity... P.S. I learned a new term... I'd always called em' "spike bars", I don't know where that came from... But so "Felling Dogs" is gonna work for me. Down the road somewhere...
@@BitsandWood I just discovered the Stihl 180 C-BE this morning... Has EZ-Start, a decompression system that's gonna be key for me. Also has a tool free chain adjuster system so that's cool. I will still need to special order the steel "Felling Dog" as it comes with the plastic version. It has an automatic carb adjustment feature which senses an air cleaner plugging up and so adjusts for that. I'll keep ya posted.
Hello my name is Mark I love the video I'm getting a saw as weal I'm getting the 180 the next step up from yours I am loving theys saws can you give a many pointers on the saw I have an Ecco but it's a pain to start
Jeremiah, thanks for the video. I got one question, which you may have answered but I couldn’t find in the comments: What is the purpose of the screw behind the chain tensioner? It wasn’t on the original tensioner and maybe I’m being dense but for the life of me I can’t figure out why it’s necessary.
Hey there . Hope you're doing well . I realize this Video is about 4 years old but I'm hoping you see my comment and question . First , thanks for making and sharing this Video . Definitely informative for someone like me who just bought his first Chainsaw . And second , I understand why you re - located the Tension Screw . But what is the purpose of the Felling Dawg , and why did you replace that part ? Okay , thanks again for making this Video , stay safe . 🎸🎸🎸
Felling dogs allow the user to secure the chainsaw into the tree or log itself, providing for greater control and precision in a cut. The chainsaw can be levered using the felling dogs as an anchored fulcrum, allowing the user to cut more aggressively without putting too much strain on the saw itself.
Does that side tensioner have the same adjustment range as the original? Reason I ask is that my 61pmm3 chains stretch out very quickly (and I am running the chain quite loose), and the adjustment range determines how long I can use them. I do get tired of waiting for that saw in thick lumber. It's nice up to about 8" diameter wood though. I'd like to see a video of cutting a 20"+ tree with one of those.
I’m not sure about the adjustment range. My current chain already has a lot of time on it and I haven’t had any problems with this setup yet. I should have recorded the big ash tree I fell with this little guy. My big saw was having issues so I dropped the tree with this guy. I think it was about 26” across if I remember right. It took a while, but it did it.
My part didn't include the screw either, but looking at how the bar fits over the part I think it will how it in place. I am trying to figure out the screw part number.
I try to buy the middle performance machines so I won't have to upgrade anything. Sad that everything is plastic now , designed only last less years than the older saws.
Just after the caption about the "darn neighbor kids across the street" who were making noise and interrupting your video, you started talking about cutting off limbs. LOL.
Thank you! My father in law just gifted me his ms170. After 1 day of use, I realized it need these upgrades. Great video!
Hey man thanks, the way you explained how to take the parts off and replace them was perfect. Explaining as you showed in detail works. Where when some people explain things you'll see a bunch of squiggly lines and then the parts will be off. That may be all in good for people that know what they're doing. But a beginner like myself appreciates the way you take the time and explain and show and you show each step thank you .
Awesome video. I do carvings and I use the ms170 and ms180 for my detail saws. How RUclips is such a helpful tool that I wish I had when I was younger. The things I could have been taught and knowledge on here is so priceless. Thank u
My father law gave me this model last summer when we moved into a house with a ton of midsize trees we wanted taken down. I've been very happy with it, it's cut much larger trunks than I expected. I'll be doing the upgrades, I can't stand where the tensioner is mainly because I've burnt my hand on the hot chain trying to get in there. Anyways, great video! I like the easy straight to the point approach. You've gain another viewer. Take care.
Thanks!
i realize I am kind of off topic but do anyone know of a good website to stream new tv shows online ?
all links produce 403 error, nice tips thanks for that. If you screw down the blade finally, you should raise the tip of the blade with your left hand to eliminate all play that is in the construction and prevent it from comming loose for that reason.
After watching this video I installed the pieces on my 023 Stihl. It worked great, so much easier to tighten the chain thru the side cover. Thank you and a great video....
Glad it helped! 👍
@@BitsandWood If you wanna help people, tell them to stop saying blade when referring to a CHAINsaw, lead by example, anyone who says blade when referring to chainsaws is opening themselves up for ridicule because they immediately sound like they know nothing about chainsaws. You said blade tensioner, what exactly are you referring to? The bar? The chain? Neither are blades. The bar is fixed, the chain tensions, so if one of your followers goes into a shop and asks for a new blade for their chainsaw, what exactly are they asking for? A chainsaw doesn't have a blade. Please just get it right, you say you're trying to help people, so don't say blade when you're talking chainsaws please, it's counterproductive and not helpful. Learn your bar, learn where the tip is, respect the possibility of kickback, because a chain doesn't cut like a blade, it cuts like a chain, there's a very grotesque difference when the bar and chain come in contact with human flesh, the chain cuts far more aggressively than a blade. This is the reason I stress that a chainsaw isn't a blade, a cut separates and cuts clean, a chain removes material with a wider cut, saying blade is dangerous and erroneous, chainsaws make a mess of flesh and I think saying blade doesn't encourage people to be extra careful of the kickback of a bar and chain. It's not a blade, it's more dangerous than that and deserves to be referred to correctly.
Calling a chain a blade is dangerous? That’s a stretch. Flub? Sure. Dangerous? Hardly. 🤣
@@BitsandWood I guess it’s about respect, respect the saw, respect the dangers involved, respect the terminology. It’s not a blade, it’s a chainsaw, it’s a whole different animal and so you wouldn’t call a black bear a koala bear, because they are different animals with different dangers. You wanna call a chainsaw a blade? Go ahead and be wilfully ignorant, but I think you went out of your way to learn dog spikes and called yourself a word nerd and then don’t wanna say bar or chain because you are wilfully ignorant and proud of it, but your viewers should demand better than that and you should have more respect for yourself and your viewers than to willingly steer them wrong. A chainsaw doesn’t have a blade.
@@jeremybartlett1706 don’t have a heart attack!!
Thanks, I been looking all over google for the dogs and all I been able to find was charging way more than they are worth. Ordered from your link and with shipping the dog and screws was cheaper than anybody else for just the dog.
Nice! Glad it worked for you.
The MS 170 is a great little saw. Lightweight & surprisingly capable ! Recommend a 12 " bar for more power.
Good little saw for the money . I had the dealer switch the bar from .043 to .050 and from 16 inch to 14 inch . I will end up adding your upgrades
I've thought about going to 16". I'm not sure I need it, but it could come in handy.
Great video. I bought one a few months ago for trees in my backyard. Excellent chainsaw for a DIY homeowner
I was actually embarrassed to walk through the shop when I bought my MS170 because I run bigger pro level saws, but boy, it's a cool little saw and does the job.
great video! FYI the bar length is listed on the base of the bar. also those are t27 torx
I've got a few of those MS170's
they are a good small saw, and have their place.
I like to have two bars, one short one (I found an 8" one for when I'm camping) and one L O N G one. (the longest I've found is 24" that fits that little unit
it doesn't take much power to pull the chain, only when it is in wood, so as long as you don't cut huge trees with it, the longer bar saves your back when limbing.
For felling big stuff, I have bigger saws.
You ran an 8" bar on a ms170? Do you have a link? Would you recommend?
Chain looks tad to snug yet and when tightening bar always apply upward pressure the bar because if you don't when using the bottom of the bar it'll move a little and tighten the chain up and making it have too much tension on the chain
On mine they usually get looser when you lift the bar while slack nuts. So I lift the bar when tensioning chain to get proper tension in use.👍🙏
I've a ms170 with 14 inch bar. Its my only saw as I'm not a farmer. I get logs from a relative and can cut a full trailer load over a few hours. Great wee saw. Gonna get those dogs
It's a great little saw. One of these days I want a midrange saw to be in between this and my 660.
I like the ms250 I have one of those I also have a 170
I liked the tips. I placed to orders with Farmer Tec which is a Chinese company. The good news they are very good with communication. Both the order detail and shipping status, the bad news, I placed the first order on the 9th of Feb and second on the 23rd of Feb. I still have not received either order, the 23rd is in transit by air, so maybe it will show up soon. But the first order still have not left China. The parts are very inexpensive but the shipping is about the same price as the parts, no big deal. If you are ordering for tune-up then they wouldn't be my go to again. But I did order a couple T27 wrenches and chainsaw tools for less than a buck a piece. So I am good and may buy from them again once I get the parts and see the quality.
There is one more upgrade that will change the way your saw cuts. My MS180C uses the same bar and chain as the MS170/171 series. I installed the 18" bar and chain from the MS211 series which gives you the .050 3/8 Picco that is a more aggressive and stronger bar and chain. After I did this swap I had an opportunity to test it out after high winds came through and snapped limbs off and blew some trees down. Suffice it to say that it took a lot less effort to cut through limbs and tree trunks than it did before.
More bar=less horsepower
Or just get u a tungsten carbide chain & bar that's what I did. Not cheap but stays sharp and more portable for offhand & harder overhead horizontal cuts etc ..
K@@DavidDiaz-zp4hu
It might be a new thing but my local dealer has the quick tensioner Kit for this saw
180 chain tensioner fits perfectly
I bought one after market along with a stainless dog for $17
I have one great saw you can also upgrade the bar to take a heavier chain. That is the best upgrade.
Great Upgrade I have the 024 av Pro 25 years old , Just a carb 5 years back ,,, Top saws !
Rob
NSW
Australia
I've been wanting to buy a 170 did not like the chain tensioner all the falling teeth great video thank you much I own five of the saws going to buy me a 170 now thank you much
Yepp, that's awesome. Have the same upgrades. In my opinion tho, the most value for the buck on a 017 018 170 and 180 is buying a adjustable carb, and opening up the muffler abit. The adjustable carbs u can buy aftermarket chinese versions they are solid and works well. That saw runs so good with a little muffler mod and tuning. The one i have is 24 yrs old and my dad has abused it for many years until he just didnt need it anymore. It was in a open garage for 5 yrs and was in horrible condition. Beside the heavy oil leak under, the piston was scored, piston ring stuck, rusty and would not start at all.. i gave it some love, changed the filters gave it a new oil hose underneath, thats where most 017 leaks the oil...new adjustable carb and it just started and has been running since... I dont actually understand the deal with scored pistons and stuck rings. From everything i have read and watched the saw shouldnt start with those "deep" scratches on the piston. But it does and it cuts so good. I have ms 261 cm aswell but i just love this small 017 for limbing and smaller jobs... Throttle feels so responsive after opening the muffler and playing with the low jet.... Even if it blows up today i will still love it
I haven’t looked into carbs and mufflers yet. I’ll have to look into that.
Advancing the flywheel a few degrees will make you a believer. It really helps when you open the muffler and the carb replacement as you did.
Mine already had the tensioner "upgrade" but definitely has the junky plastic bumper spikes
Nice. Maybe they’ve updated it a bit since I got mine.
I swapped out my carb for a Walbro WT-215-1 and opened up the muffler, runs much better now. Going to do your chain tensioner mod, Aloha.
Gotta love the old chain tensioner placement. You can also replace the carburetor with one for a 211. Helps with longevity.
I’ll have to check that out. I haven’t looked at any more advanced upgrades yet.
@@BitsandWood there's definitely a lot that can be done with them. If you really want to mod it out, you can do porting work, a muffler mod, and timing advance. Do a bit too much on porting or advancing the timing and it'll kill it, though.
I put both the side adjust and steel dogs on my new ms 170. I would have put some white lithium grease on the adjuster before I put it in. I also put Loctite on the screws holding both the bucking spikes and the chain adjuster.
I really like my 170. I'm used to the chain adjustment where it is because my old Huskys are there but I did put a steel dog on it.
Yes: _It's a great saw._ looking for plausible some channel suggests R&R with a 50 gauge bar … last few days I get the FS56RC running right by discovering to clean the spark arrest + reason for not using alcohol fuel is alcohol takes water from the air and that deteriorates small carb parts then "trick" to use of Stihl MS 170 Chainsaw is light touch feather weight and let the engine do the work shifting in and out of the cut to make additional room
ATF as chain lubricant / tension adjusted often to keep it "just right"
Atf might not have the stickiness amd lubrication properties as well as bar oil, maybe to clean out the system if youre chopping small stuff. And bar oil to fell larger trees the bar oil also cleans and breaks up the sap. @ChiDraconis
I have a stihl ms171 I put a 025 bar ,chain,and drive sprocket on it works well
Looks like a 16". The felling dogs are nice but they will allow you to put too much leverage on the chain and bar on that saw. This saw has the green master link, light duty. Switch to the yellow, thicker chain and matching bar. Otherwise, there's a good chance the guide on the bar will wear fast, causing the chain to get thrown off. It's worth the upgrade
Try cleaning that cover and inside w non-flammable brake cleaner spray cans....let it soak in for few minutes, use old toothbrush in hard to reach nooks and crannies, then blow out w an airgun. Typically I clean saw every 3rd use...either spray everything w Teflon, silicone or ceramic spray wax ...helps oil and sawdust not adhere to surfaces as much, less problems too.
David Greenwood Nice! Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the info, I will try it out.
Teflon? Great idea. I have some silicone spray, wonder if that would help keep dust from sticking ?
@@Hammerback0 I tried silicone, it does not last as long. Best is Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic Spray wax...use TINY spritz ...buff in well, take clean cloth to polish....allow 24 to cure....repeat for second coat....literally takes less than 60 seconds to spritz, buff polish ....It works BETTER than Teflon....just use brake cleaner to remove all gunk so surface is clean first..
U will notice bar oil with chips adheres less around sprockets, cover, and plastic or metal surfaces....what is there wipes off easily....U also will notice chips fly out easier, less clogging. Every time I swap chains I use this process....been doing this for over a yr on all my saws...not perfect but better than anything else I have tried.
if you have a sharp chain, you don't need any Dawgs. also, the MS170 is prone to clogging the spark arrestor. I have found (surprisingly) that the stock, NON-ADJUSTABLE (high side) carburetor is actually too rich. you cannot get a fully adjustable STOCK carburetor any more, and strangely enough the O17 stihl saw had a fully adjustable carb, but changed the design to utilize with the new air filter assembly. BUT THEY KEPT THE SAME PART NUMBER, which is strange because usually manufacturing changes results in a new part number. you have 2 choices- find a decent 017 carb and put the 2 together, or take a chance on a Chinese aftermarket one, which I did. been over a year now and my MS 170 runs great. it's definitely not a #1 firewood getter, but for small stuff and limbing, it's awesome. only 1 of 9 saws i have, 5 used regularly
& you seem like a really cool,peaceful guy...just finished to the end of the ms170 upgrade vid.
Did the same upgrades, found mine on ebay about $7 ... I LMFAO when you MEASURED the bar with a measuring tape and you can't remember 14" or 16".
Yeah, my memory isn't what it used to be. 😂
@BitsandWood
That's how it starts, brother ...
That's how it starts.
Great upgrade. I’ll be doing the same. Thanks for the info
You're welcome! It's a fun little saw.
Definitely will be adding these gem upgrades & hey add a tungsten chain you will be amazed , I cut up 2 tonne of red gum👍
I gotta buy another one. Some yayhoo stole mine out of the back of my truck.
Dude, thanks for the info. just ordered parts half as much as amazon. Live long and prosper
Just about I saw just like that and like the upgrades that you showed and how easy it would be I really like the video thank you very much
In the UK here but just found the same parts from sellers here for similar prices - Ordered! That front chain adjust is a pain in the proverbial!
That part at the the end, where you hack the top of the log with the axe... That's where the baby Stihl was crying out to be used! :)
Yeah, looking at it again, I think you're right. That would have been easier to do with the smaller chainsaw. 😉
@@BitsandWood 100% Since I got that saw I find myself using it for everything - So mall & controllable and warms up super fast so I don't mind starting it up for one cut!
I just got me a 170 and I'm thinking about doing the same upgrade that you are doing
Good Video! Good tips for someone looking at a ms170!
I ordered a kit off ebay. It didn't come with the screw or plastic clip for the new chain tensioner. 😡
Great video mate, very interesting. I will be doing these upgrades. Thanks heaps for sharing!
Just ordered thoses upgrade for mine thanks for the great video !!
When you get dust you need to sharpen it will make your task much easier .
I would have done the same thing,. For the money that's a great upgrade.
Very handy tips, thank you...
I noticed some one using gravity when milling. Basically, letting the saw go down hill as you cut. (Lean log down) also went even as far as to use a pulley, log tied to a string to add gravity feed. Made better cuts S the chIn was never forced. Just thought it was cool.
I'm planning to try that same thing. I just got the pulleys and a hand crank winch and rope. It's on the list. 🙂
T27 on all the Sybil screws
Thanks for the video! I'm in the market and will probably get the 170 and if I do, will put those parts on order.
Good video I just picked up one haven't used it yet going to do the upgrades
Jeff?- might you kp
me posted on the results of your saw and upgrades?...thnx
I dont care for tensioner bolt head rubbing on lumber when your motorhouse deep ,could loosen chain after mass friction.I love the dogs brada!!Your awesome and sorry about the idiots chiming in.Thankyou im gonna upgrade after my 170 purchase
Great video and advice! I'll be doing these upgrades asap. Thanks for the videos.... keep them coming
Excellent video directly to the point.
You also (for limping) you might consider the 193T.
The best upgrade was to give it a good clean first!...
Great video and as soon as I had watched it decided to get those upgrades done to my ms170
But as normal I live in the great uk
So the chain tensioner would cost me approximately £55
That’s not going to happen
Shame as great upgrade
Great demonstration
nice video! i might upgrade these 2 things myself since i don't like the factory ones, thank you!
One thing i have done (bar the felling dogs & side adjuster upgrade), is to pull the spark arrestor out of the muffler, and cut the "drilled" section out of the muffler itself with a dremel
Did that improve performance?
@@BitsandWood Seems a tad more "rev happy" when hogging into the thicker timber we have here in Australia, doesnt seem more torquey at all, i think if the carby was more adjustable you could make a big difference.
Being 2 stroke, it can still rely on the scavenging effect without losing all the back pressure as the louvered section is still in place, creating that bit of required back pressure that 2 strokes need.
Stihl must just put the spark arrestor screens in to cover their backside- if you have your wits about you, you will know if something is burning (and my ride on mower & trailer have an extinguisher on board, and they arent far from the saw)
@@maxrockatanksyOG Good to know, thanks!
Nice one Mr Sawdust.............can't remember your name, did I ever know? They are some top upgrades. The "felling dogs" (didn't know that) will make a big difference. And the chain adjustment - I hate those screws at the front. Cheers
Don Finch Thanks. Come to think of it, I’m not sure I’ve ever mentioned my name. It’s Jeremiah, like the Old Testament prophet and the old Robert Redford movie, ‘Jeremiah Johnson’. My mother says those two things are what I was named after. Not the ‘Johnson’ part though, my family name is Rodriguez. 😉
Nice video Thanks for the info I have the same saw and has treated me well
Thanks for sharing the upgrades. they will be very useful for my new MS 170.
I'm jealous. why do you have a full head of hair and I'm bald?
Because you got the proportionate benefit of high testosterone. Nature maintains equilibrium. Male PB comes from hi levels of Dihi-Testosterone, a chemical which we all have but higher levels cause MPB, which although harmful to hair growth always occurs with similar levels of regular test.
When you put the dogs on the saw did it help to improve the cutting
The teeth keep the limbs from flying around and hitting you .
I've done those upgrades And also upgraded the 43 gauge bar to a50 gauge bar And chain
You should post a tune up video for this. Mine isnt cutting that well.
I would check out Steve's Small Engine Repair channel. I always go to his videos when I have chainsaw/mower/weed eater issues. ruclips.net/video/M6T5JoGXcHY/видео.html
Best tune up for a wore out 170,
1. Grab your keys.
2.Head to your local supply store.
3.Pull out your checkbook or credit card.
Yo, bro! Just bought a Stihl MS 180C and stumbled on your video. Hope all's well with you, Mr. Rodriquez. :p
Things are great! Hope things are going well for you as well.
Champ video! Thank you so much!
God speed!
Nice job.... And too, I will not be affected too much if someone else tells ya Not to quit yer day job. As a brand new sub, I find your mix of some elements of humor entertaining. (Second Place Class Clown here, we might battled for the title in a different life, lol)... I'm all wore out at 67 and my rotator cuffs are shot not providing me the stuff to start the bigger saws. I'm off-grid, homebound way up a mountain so your work/experience is big time helpful in making my MS 170 purchase be done right the first time... upgrades noted. So I'm sayin' thanks and gettin' ready to dig around in your video selection to see what else piques my curiosity...
P.S. I learned a new term... I'd always called em' "spike bars", I don't know where that came from... But so "Felling Dogs" is gonna work for me. Down the road somewhere...
Thanks, I'm no comedian, but I have fun. ;)
@@BitsandWood I just discovered the Stihl 180 C-BE this morning... Has EZ-Start, a decompression system that's gonna be key for me. Also has a tool free chain adjuster system so that's cool. I will still need to special order the steel "Felling Dog" as it comes with the plastic version. It has an automatic carb adjustment feature which senses an air cleaner plugging up and so adjusts for that. I'll keep ya posted.
@@deanstackhouse4991 Nice!
Would you happen to have a link to the parts upgrade? Thanks great video
They are listed in the description.
Nice upgrades! I presume you have to check them periodically to make sure they don’t work loose.
I haven't had a problem with that yet, but probably not a bad idea to check.
Hello my name is Mark I love the video I'm getting a saw as weal I'm getting the 180 the next step up from yours I am loving theys saws can you give a many pointers on the saw I have an Ecco but it's a pain to start
5:24 NOT CUTTING NEW THREADS!!! Screwing through GUNK! Clean holes with compressed air first.
T27 driver for those screws .
Could I put a 14 in. bar and chain or does 16 hold good?
Thank you got mine in the mail today, fit great!
Get those kids to wash your garage door.
Jeremiah, thanks for the video. I got one question, which you may have answered but I couldn’t find in the comments: What is the purpose of the screw behind the chain tensioner? It wasn’t on the original tensioner and maybe I’m being dense but for the life of me I can’t figure out why it’s necessary.
Not sure. The only screw I remember was for adjusting chain tension. My saw was stolen a few weeks ago though so I can't check.
4:50 teeth installed....4:53 teeth are GONE!
Hey there . Hope you're doing well . I realize this Video is about 4 years old but I'm hoping you see my comment and question . First , thanks for making and sharing this Video . Definitely informative for someone like me who just bought his first Chainsaw .
And second , I understand why you re - located the Tension Screw . But what is the purpose of the Felling Dawg , and why did you replace that part ?
Okay , thanks again for making this Video , stay safe .
🎸🎸🎸
Felling dogs allow the user to secure the chainsaw into the tree or log itself, providing for greater control and precision in a cut. The chainsaw can be levered using the felling dogs as an anchored fulcrum, allowing the user to cut more aggressively without putting too much strain on the saw itself.
@@jmljml5065 Thanks Dude . Hope you're doing well .
Chain tensioner n dogs, when you do chain, pull up on bar, tighen first then chain last, you will get uneven track groove.
Great Video.
Good video cheers! Do you think the MS181 differences are worth the cost over the MS180?
Does that side tensioner have the same adjustment range as the original? Reason I ask is that my 61pmm3 chains stretch out very quickly (and I am running the chain quite loose), and the adjustment range determines how long I can use them.
I do get tired of waiting for that saw in thick lumber. It's nice up to about 8" diameter wood though. I'd like to see a video of cutting a 20"+ tree with one of those.
I’m not sure about the adjustment range. My current chain already has a lot of time on it and I haven’t had any problems with this setup yet.
I should have recorded the big ash tree I fell with this little guy. My big saw was having issues so I dropped the tree with this guy. I think it was about 26” across if I remember right. It took a while, but it did it.
Very nice video ,thanks.
Abraham Varo Thanks👍
Good value for the money
You sir, are amazing!
My parts did not come with screws, what will work.
?
My part didn't include the screw either, but looking at how the bar fits over the part I think it will how it in place. I am trying to figure out the screw part number.
Great! Is everything included when you order the modifications like the bolts etc.????
I think I ordered the bolts as a separate item on the same order.
Do you have the part numbers for these upgrades?
The links for all these parts are in the video description.
I try to buy the middle performance machines so I won't have to upgrade anything. Sad that everything is plastic now , designed only last less years than the older saws.
I'm going to be shopping for an upgrade soon. This saw was stolen out of the back of my truck.
Excellent! Thank you !
You're welcome!
Just after the caption about the "darn neighbor kids across the street" who were making noise and interrupting your video, you started talking about cutting off limbs. LOL.
🤣🤣🤣
really helpful video ! Thank You
I like your upgrades how ever I think you have your doggs upside ?
Great video bro!! Definitely going to upgrade!!
Thnx for getting back to me on the
660. So did that price come to around 330 beans with bar?
(If that was even included)
Mine was $380 shipped back when I bought it. It came with a 25" bar. The 42" I added is an Oregon.
i like the welding table
Me too. I love that thing. I bought it as a kit from weldtables.com. One of these days I’m planning to do a review of it.
What size is that screw in the chain adjuster, mine didn't ship with one